How to make automatic swing gates by hand. How to mount a drive for swing gates with your own hands. Do-it-yourself swing automatic gates

Do-it-yourself automatic gates are quite difficult to install. Automation can be mounted on both swing gates and sliding gates. It is recommended to use the latest. All work must be done carefully, because if errors are made during the installation of the structure, the gate may not work correctly. Retractable automation for gates is installed on the base, after which the correct gap is set between the drive star and the rack with teeth. In the process of installing swing gate automation, it will be necessary to take into account a large number of different parameters. If at least one of them is not observed, the brackets will break out from the poles or doors, and the electric motor may also break.

Figure 1. Scheme of automatic swing gates.

Drawings of automatic gates are shown in fig. 1 and fig. 2.

Items you will need:

• switches;
• jumpers;
• control board;
• remote controls;
• peripherals;
• blueprints.

Do-it-yourself swing automatic gates

Figure 2. Scheme of automatic sliding gates.

To determine the appropriate type of automation, you should calculate the distance from the hinge to the inner edge of the column. If the parameter is 0-15 cm, then linear automation can be used. This system has excellent appearance and low cost. If the parameter is 15-30 cm, then you will need to mount the lever automation.

Next, you need to measure the width of the sash and calculate the wind load. The ease of movement of the sash should be checked. It is worth noting that a properly adjusted automatic gate can be opened with one finger. Otherwise, you will need to eliminate the skew of the post or sash. The drives must necessarily move on the level. If the column is tilted, then the trajectory will deviate from the horizon. As a result, the automation may jam.

When all the shortcomings are eliminated, it is possible to install automatic gates. Automation is mounted on posts. Their location may vary, everything will depend on the type of gate opening. The installation dimensions can be found in the installation instructions for the automation of the selected model. It is recommended to adhere to the indicated distances. It should be understood that a deviation of 1-2 cm may not allow opening the structure to the required angle. If only part of the stroke of the rod is used, then increased loads will be placed on the electric actuator.

Existing installation schemes for automatic gates

Do-it-yourself automatic gate installation schemes can be different. The main ones are the following:

1. Opening to the courtyard. This scheme of automatic gates is the most common. If channels from a channel are used, then it is recommended to use linear wires. They are inexpensive and take up little space. Lever drive on metal poles is mounted quite rarely, as it is expensive. If there are columns made of concrete or brick, and the gate is mounted in the middle of the column, then the linear mechanism cannot be used, since when closing the gate will rest against the corner of the column. In this case, you will need to manufacture a niche for the drive in the column. Another option is the installation of lever automation. The lever system should be installed on the column. Large levers make it possible to open gates that are less than 20 cm from the end of the post.
2. Opening out. In this case, any type of system can be used, but it is recommended to install a linear design. It is mounted inside the gate opening, as a result, the system will take approximately 15 cm of usable opening area. If the gate has a small width, then the automation can be mounted at the top of the sash. As a result, it will be possible to operate the gate without obstacles.

The sequence of steps for installing automation

Particular attention should be paid to the reliability of fixing the electric drive to the post. Often the system is mounted on a face brick or a destroyed column. It should be understood that during use, the electric drive may fall off along with a piece of brick or pole. If the column is in poor condition, then it is recommended to scald it in a circle and install amplifiers.

At this stage, you will need to transfer the drive to manual mode, and then weld the brackets to the structure. If a linear electric drive is used, then in the process of attaching the brackets, care must be taken that at least 1 cm of stem travel remains on the gate. If the structure stops due to the twisting of the stem, then a high wear galling process will occur. In this case, the electrical structure for the gate will quickly break.

After installing the drives on the posts and brackets on the gate, you will need to check the movement of the leaf. If during the movement the mechanism jams or the structure is skewed, then the problem must be eliminated at this stage.

Next are the stops. If the design allows the installation of stops in the ground, then it is recommended to use a system without switches. It should be understood that the less additional devices in the design, the more reliable it will work. Switches are recommended to be used only in cases where it is not possible to install self-made automatic gates without them.

After that, the engine is connected. It is necessary to install the necessary jumpers, hem the consoles, connect 3 wires of 220 V each. At this stage, it will be possible to start the system.

If any of the wings move in the wrong direction, then you will need to swap the wires on the electric motor.

The next step is to adjust the switches. Then you will need to set the operating time of the sash and the force of closing and opening on the board. It is not recommended to use the highest force. It is best to set the minimum possible operating force, which will allow the entire structure to function normally and control. If the gate is light in weight, and the maximum possible force is set, the system will operate at maximum power. In this case, the mechanical part during the stop of the structure will endure excessive load.

Nuances to consider

After that, it will be necessary to install the photocells and signal lamp. The photocells should not be connected until the limit switches have been fully adjusted, all settings have been made, etc. Do-it-yourself automatic gates are difficult to install correctly the first time. It is important to follow the correct sequence of actions, because if several errors are made, the system will not start. In this case, it is quite difficult to determine exactly where the mistake was made. The procedure is as follows:

Automation installation tools: welding machine, tape measure, hammer, corner, level.

1. Installing a drive with a rail.
2. Installation of limit switches.
3. Setting jumpers on the board.
4. Power supply.
5. Connecting remote controls.
6. Adjustment of limit switches.
7. Adjustment of time and force of opening and closing.
8. Installation of peripheral devices.

You can also mount a button with which you can control the gate. Each board has an output for external control of the structure. If this output is connected briefly to minus 24 V on the board, then it will be possible to control the gate in the same way as with a remote control. On these contacts, you can connect and mount a spare key inside the yard to open and close the structure.

How to make automatic sliding gates

The sequence of actions will be as follows:

1. The first step is to mount the base, which is sold complete with an electric drive.
2. Next, you need to install the drive and see where the rack with teeth is located.
3. If the drive needs to be raised, then the base should be mounted on several profiled pipes that are welded to the channel.
4. After that, you will need to thread the wires through special holes.
5. Next, the rack with teeth is mounted.
6. Limit switches are being installed.
7. Magnetic and mechanical limit switches are installed. Care should be taken that the latter do not break the spring.

Installation of automatic gates can be done without problems only if all the nuances are taken into account.

Currently, many owners of country houses and cottages have fully experienced all the advantages and advantages that automatic gates provide. Their installation allows the motorist to quickly and easily enter the territory of his site, without wasting precious time opening complex and heavy entrance gates. The main thing is to correctly select and mount the gate structure and equip it with a reliable and durable automatic system. Initially, it is necessary to determine the model of the gate and the technology of its installation.

In many European countries, sectional doors are the most common type of security devices for garages and the entrance area of ​​a suburban area. According to the technical equipment, their design is separate sections, interconnected by loops, moving along guide rails fixed along the opening and displaced under the ceiling of the room. The movement of the garage door leaf of this type is carried out along a vertical plane. This is very convenient in everyday use, as no additional space is required to open the gate, even if the car is located directly in front of the entrance.

For ease of use, sectional doors can be equipped with a side door or a built-in gate.

A separate door significantly increases the convenience of daily use of the garage, reduces heat loss in the room and increases the level of security of the facility. Indeed, if there is a door or gate, it is not necessary to completely raise the gate to enter the box.

An important advantage of automatic sectional gates is the availability of a reliable and convenient access restriction system. You can first select a rotating latch or a special valve to open the system only from inside the room. To close the structure from the outside, an automatic bolt lock with a stable pin and a reliable snap-in washer is installed.

A well-chosen control system will provide the facility with high reliability at an affordable price. The installed drive with closed gate leaves is additionally a high-quality locking device.

The gates are controlled by an electric drive using a remote control or a stationary device.

If there is a possibility of a permanent or temporary power outage, the device is provided with a special system for prompt emergency shutdown of the automatic electric drive and switching on the manual control mode.

Sliding gates

To protect the entrance area to any territory and its arrangement, sliding gates operating in automatic mode are increasingly used. A steel cantilever pipe is welded to their lower part. During the operation of the structure, it moves along roller carts, which are installed on a special organized foundation. The lower corner of the sliding gate in the closed position is rolled into the trap by an end roller. This movement prevents transverse vibrations of the device during the opening of the web.

Installation of sliding gates requires the construction of an independent foundation.

It is worth considering the following:

• Installation begins with the arrangement of an independent foundation, a base located in the opening and to the side of it, in the direction of opening the structure.
• The frame of sliding gates and their fastenings must have high wind resistance.
• It is necessary to install a special holding part, which increases the width of the leaf structure in the direction of opening the gate.
• Sliding gates should be provided with an effective anti-burglary system and special protection against adverse external factors.

Video

The following video will help you understand the device and installation of sliding gates in more detail:

Swing

The most common type of entrance gate for many decades remained traditional hinged designs. As before, they are still very popular today due to their affordable price, guarantee of safety and reliability of the system. In addition, they are very comfortable, functional and have a wide range of design and architectural solutions.

Today, beautiful and prestigious wrought iron swing gates, equipped with a durable and comfortable automatic opening system, are widely demanded. The frames themselves and the filling can be made from any building materials.

The design of swing gates consists of the following elements:

• Metal frame made of steel pipes. The cross section of the frame is selected taking into account the dimensions of the structure, the wind and operational load of the canvas.
• Steel inner frame designed for finishing decoration with openwork forged products, sandwich panels, special wood or corrugated board.

Limitations in the choice of an electric drive are associated with the width of the gate leaves and the total weight of each individual structure. Special attention should be paid to the location of the automatic drive, which can be placed in various places. The drive can be attached to the leaves or gate posts, to the supporting columns of the structure or outside the entire system.

lifting gate

As for sliding and swing gates, they are used both for arranging garages and for entering the yard. Lifting gates are installed exclusively in garages. They are a canvas that rises and moves under the ceiling of the room.

Lifting gates are in great demand among consumers, as they are distinguished by their convenience in operation, high protective properties against unauthorized entry, as well as an affordable price.

Lifting gates can be divided into 2 subspecies: rotary and sectional. Generally speaking, the design of these gates is similar, there are differences in the set of components, as well as the order and method of their installation.

The essential difference lies in the fact that sectional doors are more mobile and flexible, they are more reliable, and rotary structures are simpler. The safety of the latter is ensured only due to the integrity of the canvas.

Sectional doors are made of sandwich panels and only, and for rotary doors, profiled sheet, wood or insulated panels can be used.

There are 2 options for saving without losing quality:

• Install the gate from the manufacturer according to the scheme attached to them.
• Self-manufacture up-and-over gates according to the drawings.

Which of these options to choose is up to you. However, if you do decide on the second option, it is better to immediately give preference to a simpler design of up-and-over doors.

In order to save on materials as much as possible, you should accurately calculate them in order to purchase the actual quantity you need.

To save money, you can sacrifice the appearance of the gate by refusing to decorate it. As for the lifting mechanism, here you can also save money by installing a manual drive. But, you see, the use of an automatic electromechanical device is more convenient. I don't want to skimp on comfort.

The main elements of lifting gates are the frame, the leaf and the lifting mechanism. Any material that would match the exterior of your home can serve as a canvas. The frame is made of a metal profile or square pipes. They can be fastened together with a welding seam or bolted fasteners. As for the lifting mechanism, the choice here will be more difficult:

• Hinge-lever mechanism - involves precise alignment of the guides vertically, ensuring smooth movement of the gate up / down.
• The system of counterweights provides for the passage of the cable through the block on which the counterweight is fixed. This design has the right to life in those cases when it comes to installing heavy gates.

So, you will need:

1. Profile/square tube for frame.
2. Fasteners.
3. Channel bracket.
4. Pins.
5. Spring.

First you need to make a frame. Deepen it into the concrete base a few centimeters. It must be installed in the opening and secured with pins. After that, assemble the canvas that needs to be sheathed with a metal shield. Make holes in the shelves for mounting the spring bracket and mounting to the racks. In addition, you need to make holes for the channel bracket, on which the spring will rest.

Now we need to work on the spring. It must be connected to the bracket. This can be done using a metal adjustment plate. Then make hooks and add a tensioner at the bottom.

The next step is to make and fix the hinge assembly and the plate with a hole on the frame, and, accordingly, the end of the lever. Then make the rails from the corners. One end of the rail must be welded to the plate mentioned above, to which the channel is welded. Then it needs to be fixed on the ceiling of the frame.

It is important to install the guides as horizontally as possible. So, you will ensure the smooth opening / closing of the lifting gate. Now the canvas is being installed, as well as automation.

Video

A photo

In the photographs you can clearly see the options for manufacturing automatic gates:

Autonomous gates are distinguished by safety and ease of entry to plots or garages. The electric drive can be controlled directly from the car. And to let the guests' car into the yard, you don't have to leave your cozy house and rush into the rain. All you have to do is press a button on your key fob.

Yes, the high price may scare you away, but if you have at least a little experience in repair and construction, then you can easily build automatic gates with your own hands. Everything that is needed for this has long been lying idle in the garage or is practically given away in the markets for nothing.

Types and features of structures

There are many projects of varying degrees of complexity. However, they always have something in common. What are the automatic gates, if we discard all sorts of overly original designs, almost every owner of the site knows.

swing gate

Simply put, these are two wings that are attached to the side support pillars with hinges. They are extremely reliable and simple. It is easiest to make such swing gates with an electric drive with your own hands.

But they have a number of disadvantages:

Recoil mechanism

There are also sliding gates, which are very convenient. They have a special canvas that can be pushed back against the fence . Depending on the support, they are divided into 3 types:

Drive Automation Methods

There are several popular types of drives that will actuate the gate leaves. Such drives can be designed with your own hands, and this is their main advantage. The mechanisms are:

• Crank mechanism;
• With screw or worm gear;
• Working by means of racks or gears;
• Chain or belt transmission mechanism.

In the manufacture of classic swing gates, linear drives are used - screw and worm. They can be made independently from a simple electric motor and a lever, or you can use satellite dish actuators, automatic windows, windshield wipers. These are cheap parts that can be left after car repairs.

Do-it-yourself gate making

Since swing gates are one of the most popular among homeowners, a large number of various mechanisms are produced for them by different companies. They differ in quality, but the price can repel an ordinary person - for just one set you will have to pay several hundred not even rubles, but euros. It is at this stage that people think about whether it is possible to make such a gate on their own.

Before any work, it is necessary to carry out preparatory measures. Including you can not skip the planning stage:

Only after the above points are sorted out, you can start building.

Optimum sash size

When choosing their size, you should rely primarily on the type of cars that you will have in your garage. For ordinary passenger cars, gates with a width of 2.5 meters or more will suffice, while trucks and tractors may require not only a width of more than 4 meters. In addition to measuring the opening itself, you should also take care of the width of the driveway. If it is impossible and difficult to perform any necessary maneuvers on it, then it is expanded by about one and a half to two times. And it is worth thinking about the future, and making large gates in advance.

Selection of materials

Profile pipes have optimal indicators of strength and rigidity for creating a gate frame. Most often they are used.

But for the door leaf itself, there is no unambiguously better material. Someone turns to traditional boards, metal sheets, someone - to polycarbonate and corrugated board. It all depends solely on your financial capabilities, since each of the materials is quite capable of providing reliable protection.

Support posts are made of steel pipes, beams, reinforced concrete, stone or brick pillars. Again, it all depends solely on the finances that you have. More expensive material will last longer, but its repair will cost a considerable amount.

Resources for work

So, we can proceed to a specific calculation of the necessary materials, tools and mechanisms. The whole list may seem quite impressive, however, without any of its elements it is rather difficult to do without:

If the list of works also includes the installation of support structures, then tools such as shovels and picks should also be considered. You will also need wheelbarrows for the removal of soil, containers for materials that will be used to create foundations.

Construction stages

The first step will be the construction of supporting structures. They should be as deep as possible. A simple rule works with support pillars - the deeper they are installed, the more stable the whole structure.

Their installation is quite simple - two deepest holes are dug, the pillars themselves are placed in them. With the help of a level, they are given a strictly vertical position, after which crushed stone, sand or concrete is poured into the pits. If necessary, all this is rammed. And loops are attached to the supporting structure.

The second stage is the manufacture of the gate leaves themselves. First, the place where the welding will take place is prepared. It is necessary to ensure the stability of the structure during work, as well as the geometric accuracy of the connection of all parts. After that, the prepared pipes are cut into pieces of the required size. Then they are welded into a rectangular or square frame. Strengthening occurs with the help of additional diagonal crossbars and reinforcement of the corners of the structure with metal plates. After stripping and grinding the seams, the prepared material for the canvas is fixed.

The main characteristic that the gate should have is rigidity. The main cause of structural deformation after construction is the wind load. Consideration should be given to ensuring that the frame ensures the rigidity of the structure throughout its entire area. You also need to abandon too thin and plastic materials.

The third and last stage is the manufacture and mounting of the drive. The main difficulty for most people at this stage is the choice between a linkage and a linear mechanism. However, this is quite simple to do - it is necessary to measure the distance between the beginning of the web surface and the outer edge of the supporting structure. If it is greater than or equal to 150 mm, then a lever drive is used. If the distance is less than the specified value, a linear actuator is used.

When installing mechanisms on massive supporting structures, it is necessary to prepare niches in the masonry for them in advance. It is also necessary to take into account the entire structure, and if it exceeds 100-120 kg, add one more drive for each of the columns.

Self-creation of the drive

And now the most interesting. The manufacture of such a handicraft drive can be carried out by people even without special skills. What you need for this:

• 2 screw jacks from the car "VAZ";
• 2 wiper mechanisms;
• Parts of profile pipes, suitable in length;
• Sheets of steel 5 mm thick;
• Screws 6x10 mm;

The first step is to dismantle the support platform of the jack. Nothing should be thrown away - all the details will be used in the future. Then it is necessary to disassemble the wiper mechanisms and put aside the electric motors with the gearbox. They will be needed for the manufacture of drives.

A connecting sleeve 5–7 cm long is made from a part of the pipe, then it is attached to the screw of the “VAZ” jack. And in its upper part, a plate 8x8 cm is welded for fastening the motor mechanism of the wipers. Then, fastening mechanisms are made from other parts of the pipes and threads are cut into them.

Installation of automation occurs in the following order:

After installation, it is necessary to manually (without the participation of the drive) open and close the gate several times in order to check its mobility. Drive tuning should only be done with the power off. The mechanism itself can be placed in a casing for additional protection. It can be purchased separately, however, the best option would also be to make it from improvised means.

So, for the manufacture of the gate itself, only skills in handling the welding machine will be enough. However, the manufacture of an actuator that automates the movement of the leaves makes many people retreat from the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bmanufacturing it yourself. However, the design looks complicated only at first glance. With due diligence, you can study all the necessary materials and easily make automatic gates with your own hands.

We will talk about drives for swing gates and their assembly with our own hands

Owners of sliding gates do not experience any particular difficulties in self-equipping the sash with a drive mechanism, but when it comes to swing gates, much more effort and knowledge is needed. Today we will talk about drives for swing gate leaves and their assembly with our own hands.

There are three main types of gearboxes that convert the rotation of an electric motor into a high torque translational motion. The design of the mechanism can be performed:

• in the form of a gear;
• using a screw stud;
• using rack and pinion.

On these three types of kinematics, it is quite possible to assemble your own mechanism even at home.

The design of the self-made actuator proposed below is not afraid of moisture and pollution, it exerts a very high force when moving.

Please note that with the gate closed, such a home-made drive acts as a lock: it cannot be opened from the outside by pressing on the gate leaf.

Preparing the gate and fixing points

Almost any swing gate or door can be equipped with a drive, but it is better to plan the installation of the mechanics in advance. This applies to the installation of reliable fasteners for the drive. They have the form of metal plates with holes at the ends, one of which is attached strictly perpendicular to the sash, the other is located on a pole or fence in the same position.

When installing the plates, they must be oriented in a horizontal plane and be at the same level. It is very important to take into account the high pulling force of the drive, so the best way to attach the plate to the gate is by welding. Plates can be fixed to stone and brick pillars with metal anchors, but it is much better to make embedded steel elements at the construction stage.

The easiest way is to mount the drive on gates that open inward so that all actuators are located in a protected area. A cable must be laid in the gate opening, so lay a 32 mm plastic pipe under the pavement beforehand.

At the stage of mounting the mounts, you will determine the first basic parameters of your drive. Measure the distance between the centers of the holes in the fasteners when the door is closed and when it is open. The last value is the length of your drive in the folded position, and the difference between the measured distances is the amount of travel of the device.

You can also measure the opening and closing force of the gate with a manual spring balance. Pull the gate leaf fastener in the direction of the opposite fastener, this will help you to select the motor power most accurately.

Production of a drive from car window regulators

Light gate leaves can really be set in motion by a drive from modified window lift mechanisms. The advantage of this method is its relative simplicity and almost silent operation of the drive. The disadvantage is the limited traction force, which is due to the small working stroke of the mechanism.

There are two types of power window designs suitable for use as a gate drive:

• the role of the moving element is played by a gear rack;
• based on gears.

In both cases, the drive part is mounted on a metal platform that is rigidly attached to a pole or fence. In this case, the metal rail should move parallel to the plane of the gate and move forward in their direction.

The lifter mechanism needs to be improved: installation of an elongated metal rod for the rack or a knee lever for the gear wheel. The connections of the rod with the drive and the gate, as well as the two parts of the knee lever, must be made in the form of a fork hinge, following the example of a door closer.

You can ensure good mobility and no backlash if you make one side of the connection in the form of two folded plates, the gap between which is equal to their thickness. The plate of the second part of the hinge will enter this gap. Both elements are connected with a pin or bolt with a self-locking nut.

The main difficulty in the use of power windows is to find the most advantageous position of the drive, the hinge and the place where the rod is attached to the gate. You can confidently do this experimentally by first setting the gate in the open position and, slowly closing it, monitor the behavior of the drive structure. Do not forget that after installation, the mechanism needs a protective cover.

Selection and calculation of engines

As a motion activator for swing gates, it is advisable to use geared motors of various types. If we are talking about small gates of low mass, the motors of cordless screwdrivers, drives of car windshield wipers, power windows, etc. will cope with the task. Another question is how you plan to make a clutch for the shafts of such motors.

You can also choose the right unit from a wide range of shop gearmotors, this gives you more freedom in determining the desired torque. So, let's say the measured closing force of a heavy gate leaf was 13.5 kg on the scale of a manual canter. Each kilogram corresponds to 9.8 N, which means that the traction force is 132.3 N. In the case of a rack or gear drive, this value must be divided by the diameter of the drive wheel, this will be equal to the engine torque.

In the “nut-screw” design, reduction occurs, so an additional recalculation is required. Let's say an M18 stud with a thread pitch of 2.5 mm is selected. This means that for one revolution around a circle with a diameter of 18 mm, the nut makes 2.5 mm of translational movement, so the gear ratio is 7.2:1. Accordingly, if we divide the gate opening force by the gear ratio, we get the desired value of the force on the motor shaft: 132.3 / 7.2 ~ 18.4 N or slightly less than 1.9 kilograms with a stud radius of 0.9 cm. That is, a table the torque value for the engine will be 1.69 kg/cm.

This is a rather rough calculation that does not take into account the friction force in the screw drive and other losses, but it helps to determine the minimum allowable motor power. To compensate for energy losses, it is recommended to provide a power reserve of 100–250%.

It is also necessary to calculate the speed of rotation of the shaft. To do this, divide the stroke length by the thread pitch of the screw drive and you will get the number of revolutions required to fully open the gate. When using a rack and pinion, the calculation is determined by the ratio of the number of teeth of the rack and the drive gear.

Stud for homemade drive

Heavy gates need a drive with a high applied force. Such work is within the power of factory-made drives, but you can create an analogue with your own hands.

The main difficulty is finding a suitable hairpin. Standard drive studs are not suitable: they are made of soft metal, so the thread becomes unusable over time. The way out of the situation is to independently increase the hardness of the metal and the number of contacting threads of the screw gear.

Increasing the hardness of the pin

The first problem is solved by hardening. The required heating temperature is given by ordinary charcoal, it also partially carburizes the metal. Fold the hearth of bricks and cast-iron grates, heat the fuel until the coals burn out completely. The hardening temperature is 700–800 °C, which corresponds to the rich red color of the metal. Exposure at this temperature is 13–15 minutes, after which the part must be cooled in used oil. The stud must be fully and simultaneously immersed along its entire length, so open the steel pipe along the longitudinal seam, plug the ends and use this tray as a quench bath. The hairpin needs to be slightly shaken in the oil during the entire cooling time, then removed and laid again on the coals without wiping, in order to release the metal. Now heating must be performed up to 200-250 degrees, until the metal turns gray with a pronounced formation of scale. After 3-4 minutes of exposure, the product must be cooled in water.

Enlargement of stud threads

To make a special nut, you need to screw 2-3 standard nuts onto the stud tightly, but without tightening. Align the edges of the nuts and clamp the assembly in a vise very firmly. Weld the nuts together along all edges and grind the product with an angle grinder to the previous dimensions.

Instead of a complicated hardening procedure, you can spend time looking for rolling studs and nuts for them. Such a metal has all the necessary characteristics. In addition, you can choose a thread with a trapezoidal profile: it is much stronger. You can also find a product with a larger thread pitch, which will reduce the operating time of the mechanism.

Assembly of the actuator

Actuator Sizing

The actuator has a telescopic device, for its manufacture you will need two steel pipes, one of which fits into the other without a strong backlash. You can use a square or round pipe, there is not much difference. Inside both pipes there should be no traces of rust and scale, so it's better to get new ones.

As for the dimensions of the pipes and studs, you must calculate them yourself, based on the measurements taken. Let's say the actuator is 110 cm long when folded and its stroke is 50 cm. This means that the length of the outer tube will be no more than 100 cm, a smaller tube 80 cm long will be inserted into it, and the length of the hairpin will be a full 110 cm or more, depending on the method of mounting the motor. In this case, in the open state, the drive pipes will have an overlap of 30 cm.

Assembling the drawer

Pass a stud with a nut screwed onto it through the smaller pipe and position its center on the longitudinal axis of the pipe. To ensure centering of the stud, do not select too large diameter pipe. For example, if you are using an M18 nut with a spanner of 27 mm, select a pipe with a nominal diameter of 25 mm. You just have to grind the nut evenly so that it fits snugly into the pipe. Perform fastening by welding. It is not necessary to weld on the inside, but you can do this by cutting a “window” in the pipe. When the nut is fixed, unscrew the stud from it.

At the end of the stud, a radial-axial bearing with a cage closed on both sides must be fixed. The outer diameter of the bearing should be approximately equal to the inner diameter of the pipe. The bearing must slide inside the pipe without significant resistance, the gap between it and the wall must not exceed 1 mm. If the bearing is too tight, carefully sand the end of the outer race with sandpaper. On the stud, the bearing must be firmly clamped between two nuts. Between them and the bearing, be sure to lay 1-2 washers on both sides so that nothing interferes with the rotation. Lubricate the stud liberally with lithol and insert it from the free side of the small pipe, then screw it into the welded nut. Carry out several trial runs along the entire length: the bearing should slide freely inside and not wedged.

End caps and swivel joints

Next up is the stub. It must be made from a metal blank, the diameter of which is slightly smaller than the diameter of the pipe. To make the drive repairable, make two or three holes with a countersink in the pipe, cut the threads for the mounting screws in the corresponding places on the plug. Weld two steel strips with a through hole to the end of the cork so that the gap between them is slightly larger than the thickness of the fastening on the gate leaf. Take into account the distance "stolen" by the plug when calculating the total length of the actuator in the stowed position. Before installing the plug, push 50–70 grams of lithol into the pipe, then tighten the pin so that the bearing enters the pipe by 5 centimeters, add grease again and plug the pipe.

Actuator Outer Tube

The stud must be completely unscrewed from the pipe until the bearing rests against the nut. Then the inner tube is inserted into the outer one, and the pin is screwed in 5-6 turns.

Next, you need to decide on the method of mounting the motor. Ideally, the cylindrical motor housing should be fixed inside the pipe with clamping screws. If you were unable to select a motor of suitable dimensions, weld a piece of pipe of a larger diameter, a steel strip or a metal angle to the rear end. So you can fix the oversized engine in any convenient way.

Important: the distance from the surface of the site to the central axis of the pipe must be equal to the height of the motor shaft. Position it in such a way that it is aligned with the hairpin as coaxially as possible.

Motor installation and final assembly

Connect the motor shaft to the stud using a coupling. You can purchase it from the arsenal of components for the motor or make it yourself from two small tubes nested one inside the other. Lubricate the stud a second time and secure the engine to the site. Then, by rotating the inner tube, shorten the length of your actuator to the standard open position. Lubricate the entire surface of the inner tube with lithol and fold the actuator completely.

If you will mount the motor inside the pipe, sink it 5-6 cm deep and use a plug similar to the first one. Pass the motor power wire through the hole made in the bottom of the pipe so that water does not flow inside. Or make a hole in the plug itself. In both cases, it will be reasonable to install gland entries.

If the engine is mounted on the site, weld the fork tip to it, make sure that the structure is sufficiently rigid and protect the engine with a casing. Now you just have to install the actuators in place by connecting the fork ends of the plugs to the mounts on the gates and poles. This can be done with a cotter pin or bolt with a self-locking nut.

Wiring diagram

Equipment selection

The engine is controlled according to the classic reverse scheme, but there is one detail. It is clear that there is a restrictive bar on the swing gates, so the leaves must be folded in a certain order. When torn off, the sash without a bar starts moving first, but it should close last. This can be implemented in different ways, the most reliable is a relay with a turn-on delay.

The assembly of modular devices includes:

• four contactors Hager ES424 (DC24V 4NO);
• two time relays Hager EZN001;
• differential machine Hager AD906J;
• MeanWell DR-120–12 power supply.

The equipment is assembled in a Hager VECTOR VE118DN plastic box with an IP 65 degree of protection. The circuit is designed to power two powerful IG-90GM geared motors at 24 V.

Through the differential machine, power is supplied to the L and N terminals of the power supply. From its reverse side, two 24 V DC lines are removed, each feeding two paired contactors: the input terminals of one of them are powered in reverse polarity. The outputs of the pairs of contactors are connected in parallel and supply voltage to the gearmotors.

Secondary circuits and automation

The contactor control circuit operates at a constant voltage of 24 V. The positive power wire passes through the break contacts of the stop buttons and is connected to the break contacts of the control buttons, from which power is supplied to the normally open contacts of the opposite buttons. From each button, voltage is supplied to two pairs of starters, while one of the normally open contacts performs the function of picking up the coil. The control circuit of the direct starter of the first pair and the reverse starter of the second pair is opened by a normally open relay. Power is supplied to the relay from the normally open contact of the starter of another group. Thus, a time delay is made for the sequential movement of the leaves.

Automatic stop of the motors is carried out by actuation of the end reed switches. They need to be installed along the direction of movement of the actuator, and small neodymium magnets should be glued to the surface of the inner pipes. Thus, when the actuator is fully folded or its stem is extended, the reed switches actuate, which close the power circuit of the intermediate relay with a normally closed contact. The relay is connected in parallel and duplicates the "Stop" button.

Such a drive can also operate under the control of automation for swing gates, the schemes are similar. Now you can open swing gates without leaving your car easily and without serious financial investments. published

Building an automatic gate with your own hands is not an easy task, requiring certain skills and knowledge. And do not believe those who will assure you otherwise. Nevertheless, making the automatic gate yourself is more than realistic. This, in fact, will be discussed in this guide. Do you want to learn about the types and methods of creating automatic gates? Read on!

It is not necessary to convince anyone that modern automatic gates are an incredibly convenient thing. They are in demand, and, of course, the market is full of offers. However, the whole variety of available models can be easily divided into three main groups:

• swing automatic gates;
• retractable automatic gates;
• automatic garage doors.

The manufacture of these gates has its own characteristics.

And now - in more detail.

Automatic swing gates for a country house

Do-it-yourself automatic swing gates - budget and convenient

This type of gate is the most familiar and popular due to its convenient and simple device. A necessary condition is free space for opening the gate.

Basically, the frame for such gates is made of a high rigidity profile. Then it is sheathed on top - for example, with wooden or metal panels.

A more expensive option, but, of course, very beautiful - forged carved gratings.

Automatic wrought iron sliding gates always look presentable

Swing gates - list of components:

1. poles for fastening;
2. set of loops;
3. gate leaves;
4. stops: side and central;
5. bolt;
6. gate handles;
7. brackets for fastening the electric drive to poles and doors.
8. electric drives (two).

Swing Gates - Anatomy

It is convenient to make poles for fastening the gate from a steel pipe. If the gate is very heavy, it makes sense to install a U-shaped steel frame instead of pillars. This is a guarantee that the gate will not lead over time.

As a supporting structure for installing the base of swing gates (pillars or frame), we recommend using a glass-type foundation.

A simple scheme-hint for concreting the gate. Pay attention to the pit under the "banquette"

Recently, special loops have been used to strengthen the gate leaves to the pillars. They come with bearings. In this case, the movement of the gate will be smooth and easy. Usually, the number of hinges installed on the gate is 4 or 6. This depends on the weight of the gate and its size. Such loops are of two types: metal and polymer.

The door leaf (leaf) consists of a frame and an infill panel. Filling is of three types:

• sparse;
• solid;
• combined.

The frame of the gate is made of a metal profile (corner and connecting). Filling sections can be made from a metal picket fence, sandwich panels, as well as an aluminum roller shutter profile. The metal parts of the gate should be primed and painted.

Sketch of a swing gate with a metal fence with one-sided sheathing: stone pillar-support, wall, 3-external frame, 5. side stops, 6. central stop, 7. internal stiffener, 8. linear automatic opening mechanism, 9. bottom latch, 10 .automatic control unit

Side or central stops are mandatory structural elements. In fact, these are metal limiter pins that do not allow the gate leaves to go beyond the established limits. The stops can be either permanent or removable.

The deadbolt and handles for opening the gate should also be attributed to the necessary structural elements, because, in case of any interruption in electricity, which, alas, is not uncommon with us, you will have to lock and open the gate manually.

Electric actuators and brackets to strengthen them are usually sold as a set. We do not recommend buying them separately, because drives and brackets from different manufacturers may not be suitable in terms of parameters.

Proper attachment of the lever drive to a brick wall

Overview of automation

Buying a set of gate automation today will not be the slightest difficulty. As a rule, the automation kit includes:

• drives are right-handed and left-handed self-closing;
• gate control unit (transformer and control board in one case);
• set of photocells (receiver and transmitter, remote control, photocells);
• nuts, bolts, bushings and keys for emergency release;
• mounting plate set.

It looks like a set of automation for sliding gates

In order to choose the right automatic swing device, several important parameters must be taken into account.

• weight and area of ​​​​sashes;
• opening intensity;
• ease of movement of the gate leaves.

Let's consider them in detail.

The weight and area of ​​the gate leaves are parameters that cannot be separated from each other. The reason is as follows. Strong wind loads act on the sash and drive. That is, if we install automation designed for leaf weights up to 100 kg, and do not take into account the area, then the first strong wind will tear the expensive device like a monkey newspaper.

To choose the right device, you need to do simple calculations.

Let's say that the average wind load in your area is 50 kg/m. If you want to install standard gates made of corrugated board with leaf dimensions of 2x2 m, then the wind load will be 2x2x50 = 200 kg. Now we add the actual weight of one sash (100 kg) and get the final value equal to 300 kg. In this case, taking into account the margin of safety, it is necessary to install a drive designed for leaf weights from 400 to 800 kg and for a similar wind load. Then, your gate will serve for a long time.

The intensity of opening is expressed as the ratio of the time of actual work in one hour. Expressed as a percentage. For example, 30% per hour. This data can be found in the data sheet.

marginal notes: How to apply this setting correctly? Suppose it takes approximately 20 seconds to open a gate leaf. The same for closing. Total, 40 seconds. Then, we allocate 30% of 60 (the number of minutes in an hour) and get approximately 18 minutes. Now we have only one thing to do - turn 18 minutes into seconds (1080) and divide this value by 40. We end up with the number 27. Thus, this gate will be able to let 27 cars through in 1 hour. For private households - more than enough. And for a cooperative garage - it will not be enough.

Automatic swing gates for the garage: from the outside it is almost impossible to distinguish from ordinary ones. Automation is visible only from the inside

The ease of movement of the gate leaves - this parameter depends, first of all, on the correct installation of the pillars and hinges (without distortions) and on the magnitude of the friction force in the hinges (decided by timely lubrication). In addition, this parameter is affected by weather conditions: frost, snow, icing create additional resistance. Therefore, you should choose a drive with a power reserve. Otherwise, in winter you will have to help the gate manually, and this, you see, is not a dream.

By type of operation, automatic devices for swing gates are divided into:

• Linear - these drives are also called "worm". They work on the principle of lengthening / shortening of the rod, which is driven by a worm gear;
• Lever - the principle of operation of these drives is similar to the principle of the human hand. The long operating lever consists of two parts connected by a movable hinge.

Swing gates with linear automatic drives

Linear drives are perfect for swing gates, the leaves of which open to both sides of the yard. They are easy to use and relatively inexpensive.

Lever automation allows you to open gates suspended at a distance of 20-40 cm from the edge of the post. This type of automation can be installed on stone columns facing the pillars of the gate frame.

As for the brands that produce automation for swing gates, only your preferences and wallet density are important here. For our part, we advise you to pay attention to the products of the Italian company "Came Group". This company specializes only in the manufacture of electric drives, and over the 30 years of its existence on the market, it has learned how to do it well.

By the way, Came is the first company that came up with remote-controlled gates.

Automatic sliding gates - design and rules for choosing fittings

This type of gate is now the most popular. Yes, when compared with swing gates, sliding gates will be more difficult due to the need to use special fittings. But nowadays you can buy anything, and this, in the recent past, an expensive and rare structural element, has ceased to be a curiosity.

What are the advantages of sliding gates? There are many. We list the most obvious:

• the absence of guides both at the bottom of the gate opening and at the top - this removes restrictions on the height of the incoming transport;
• precise operation of automation - this eliminates the need to leave the car to open the gate;
• unpretentiousness in service.

All you need to make sliding gates is a cheat sheet picture

It will not be difficult for anyone who knows how to handle a grinder and a welding machine to make a sliding gate on their own. However, despite all their fashionability, they have two significant drawbacks: a more “biting” price for automation and the availability of free space for the sash to roll back. Otherwise, everything is great - these gates will serve you faithfully for decades. On average, the operational sliding gate system is designed for 50,000 opening / closing cycles.

The choice of material for sewing sliding gates entirely depends on your imagination. It could be:

• corrugated board;
• metal fence;
• wood;
• forging;
• a metal sheet;
• polycarbonate.

Polycarbonate gates look very modern

By type of construction, these gates are divided into 2 types:

• with a solid canvas;
• with built-in wicket.

The set of fittings for sliding gates consists of

• roller carriages;
• top support rollers;
• rolling rollers;
• 2 traps - upper and lower;
• guide profile;
• rubber plugs.

Note: The price of a set of fittings depends on the weight of the gate, the length of the guide and the manufacturer. For example, for gates up to 400 kg with a guide of 5 m, a set of fittings of our production will cost, on average, 5,700-6,000 rubles. A similar set for gates up to 800 kg will cost 2,500-3,000 rubles more. A set of good quality overseas fittings, for example, Rolling Center (Italy) will lighten your wallet by 20 or more thousand rubles.

In a word, "think for yourself, decide for yourself."

An interesting variant of the sheathing for the gate: forging + polycarbonate

We make sliding gates with our own hands - step by step instructions

Step number 1 Decide on the size of the gate. The length, width and height of the movable leaf determine the weight of the gate, and, therefore, the choice of fittings. The size of the gate also determines the distance required to move the sash. Ideally, it should be one and a half times larger than the gate opening.

Step 2 Install the support poles. As a material suitable:

• steel profile pipe;
• oak beam;
• channel;
• pillar made of concrete or brick.

The main rule during installation is that the support pillars must be deepened into the ground by 1 meter. Otherwise, in the coming winter or spring, the support column may move vertically and spoil the entire geometry of the frame. And this will negatively affect the opening of the gate.

It looks like a "bench" in the assembly before pouring concrete into the foundation

To properly install the pole, do the following:

• dig a hole about 120 cm deep;
• we lay a “pillow” on the bottom - a dumping of sand and gravel 15 cm thick, we tamp it well;
• we install a pillar and fill it with concrete (cement grade not less than M-300).

Step number 3 We make the foundation for the gate. This is the basis of the whole structure. Firstly, the foundation holds the weight of the gate, and, you see, it is not small. Secondly, a “bench” is laid in the foundation - a channel along which the gate leaf will move on rollers.

To lay the foundation, you must do the following:

• Dig and equip a pit.

Options:

1. length = 50% of the size of the gate opening.
2. width (cm) - 40-45;
3. depth (cm) - 100-120.

The shape of the pit is U-shaped, as shown in the figure
After the pit is ready, you need to make a backfill. The size of the “cushion” is the same as when installing the pillars.

• Make a banquette. A channel (width 20 cm) and metal fittings (section 10-12 mm) are required. The reinforcement must be cut into “swords” 100 cm long, then welded to the channel shelves;
• Install the "banquet" and pour concrete.

Important!

• After pouring, the concrete needs to settle. The minimum time for curing is 6-7 days.
• The top of the "bench" is installed flush with the road (i.e., at the same level).
• Concrete should be watered daily to prevent cracking.

This sketch clearly shows the depth of laying metal supports - 120 mm. This value may vary for regions with a high rate of soil freezing.

Step number 4 Making the supporting frame. It is convenient to make a frame for sliding gates from a profiled steel pipe (the so-called gate profile).

Manufacturing steps:

• cutting the profile into the required length segments;
• removal of rust from the pipe (you will need a grinder with a “metal brush” nozzle);
• degreasing the pipe with a solvent or gasoline, applying an anti-corrosion primer;
• frame assembly by welding;
• cleaning of welding seams and finishing anti-corrosion primer of the entire frame.

Helpful Hints:

• For the outer contour of the frame, we select a professional pipe with a section of 50x50 mm or 60x40 mm.
• For stiffeners, a pipe 20x30 mm or 30x40 mm is suitable.
• We assemble the elements of the guide and the frame in a checkerboard pattern, because, from heating, the door leaf will definitely lead.

Distribution of material for the manufacture of sliding gate frame

Step number 5. Painting the frame and sewing the door leaf.

Coloring can be applied immediately after the primer dries. An inexpensive and practical option is alkyd enamel. To make the gate look richer, we recommend applying at least 2 coats of paint. After applying each layer of paint, it must dry.

The choice of sewing material is a purely individual matter.

The material should be fastened to the inner pipes (frame stiffeners). For assembly, use self-tapping screws or rivets.

Scheme of convenient and inexpensive sliding gates made of metal

Step number 6. Gate installation.

Installation is carried out in the following order:

• we install the rollers on the "banquet" and fill them into the door leaf guide;
• we set the gate strictly according to the level (you can use both a regular two-meter level and a laser level);
• we attach the lower roller carts to the channel by welding;
• we weld the upper rollers (support and end);
• We weld the lower and upper catchers to the support posts;
• install automation;
• we test the gate, brag to our neighbors and are proud of ourselves!

Such gates will cost you one and a half to two times cheaper than the "store" ones.

Scheme of classic swing gates with brick pillars

Garage automatic gates - briefly about the main thing

Typically, four types of gates are installed in garages:

• classic swing;
• sectional folding (with the help of systems of springs and guides they rise up);
• lifting and turning;
• roller shutter.

Sectional automatic garage doors: inside view

For self-production, the first three types are best suited.

It is problematic to make rolling gates with your own hands, because they consist of many slats, which are made only in industrial conditions.

Swing garage doors are built on the same principle as external ones. For the manufacture of sectional doors, you will need a lot of parts that you will have to buy in the store: canvases, guides, shafts, hinges, suspension balancing springs, etc. Therefore, it is better to order such gates in a ready-made version - it is more reliable and, oddly enough, more economical.

Up-and-over garage doors - please note: in this example, the automation is installed correctly

Up-and-over doors consist of an outer frame, a solid leaf and automation that lifts the leaf up into the “ceiling”. These are very simple and spectacular gates, the main drawback of which is expensive automation.

Swing gates from improvised materials: a note to the masters

Our verdict: if you really want to make an automatic garage door yourself, reliably and inexpensively, pay attention to the classics. Dare!