What are the benefits of indoor Tillandsia flower? Tillandsia is an exotic plant with a complex character. How it blooms and when

Tillandsias are often called the exotics among exotics. Magnificent and catchy, these beauties in the interior always seem especially original and daring. Despite their difficult care, tillandsias remain one of the most popular plants from the Bromeliad family. In addition to spectacular flowering and beautiful foliage, they boast considerable diversity. The genus Tillandsia includes both more familiar plants and epiphytes that are completely different from them. And even if you have to put in a lot of effort to succeed in growing tillandsias, these beauties are worth it.

Tillandsia ionantha. © Anne Elliott Content:

Two dissimilar exotics under one name

The Tillandsia genus combines two groups of plants that are dissimilar both in appearance and in character:

1. potted or green tillandsias, which grow in regular soil, produce a beautiful rosette of leaves that serve as a magnificent backdrop for spectacular “spiny” inflorescences;
2. epiphytic tillandsias, rare, extremely capricious, the most attractive feature of which is not flowering, but luxurious foliage.

Moreover, while potted tillandsias are very popular, epiphytic ones are found only in the private collections of experienced gardeners, so they are practically unknown to most fans of indoor exotics. They are different not only in appearance, but also in the use and required growing conditions of the plant. Flower growers often distinguish them by the simplest feature - the color of the foliage.

Epiphytic silvery Tillandsias are known among hobbyists as "gray" Tillandsias, while showy potted ones are known as "Green" Tillandsias. But it’s easy to get confused with such nicknames, because herbaceous tillandsias also have varietal hybrids with a gray green color. In this regard, it is always better to specify exactly the form of growth - epiphytic or potted.

But all tillandsias, without exception, are rightfully classified as exotics, and very striking exotics. In nature, these plants combine into one genus hundreds of different species found in South and North America. Tillandsia is one of the most representative genera of evergreen herbaceous and epiphytic plants belonging to the Bromeliaceae family. It combines more than 400 species of plants that differ significantly in appearance.

Potted, green or herbaceous tillandsias resemble the more familiar bromeliads. These evergreen plants form a not very powerful root system and produce a dense, massive rosette of narrow, linear or wedge-shaped, long leaves with pointed tips. Every year after flowering, the large maternal rosette is replaced by growth - daughter rosettes - and gradually dies off. In this way the plant self-rejuvenates.

The rosette of leaves is so impressive and dense that it stands out against the background of even indoor competitors of similar types of greenery. From the very center of the rosette, the plant produces a peduncle with a large inflorescence, the shape of which resembles an exotic spike. Bright, variegated, with graphic and “sharp” lines, the inflorescence-spike seems to continue the lines of the leaves. The beauty of the inflorescence is given by the bracts, which hide the almost inconspicuous modest flowers.

The color palette includes the brightest “acrylic” tones - pink, purple, white, yellow, blue, indigo, red, orange and cool lilac. The bracts are always painted in shining, pure tones, making Tillandsia appear dazzling.

The best types of green tillandsias:

1. Tillandsia blue(Tillandsia cyanea) is the most popular of the herbaceous species, forming a bizarre rosette of grass-like leaves, the color of which varies from a reddish base to brown-striped plates. The height is limited to 20 - 30 cm. In summer, a flattened spike with dense, ornamentally arranged bracts, seemingly artificial, grows from the center of the rosette. The flowers bloom gradually, as if a wave rolls along the ear from the top to the base. The bracts are colored lilac or pink, and the short-lived flowers with rhombic, bent petals are blue or dark blue.
2. Tillandsia Lindena(Tillandsia lindenii) - similar to blue Tillandsia, but more graceful beauty. The spike is more rounded, not as flattened, and the bracts are colored only in pale pink or red. The flowers of the plant are also blue, the leaves are grass-like, but thinner, collected in relatively loose rosettes.
3. Tillandsia duera(Tillandsia dyeriana) is a species whose inflorescence resembles a yellow autumn acacia leaf. An elegant and very beautiful plant develops in the form of a rosette of densely arranged tongue-shaped flat and long leaves, as if wrapped around the base of the peduncle. The thin peduncle bears a symmetrical inflorescence with loose, double-rowed leaf-shaped oval bracts of orange or red tones.

Epiphytic tillandsias, also called atmospheric or aerial tillandsias, are famous for their foliage. It is not only the most beautiful part of the plant, but also performs all the functions usually inherent in roots: epiphytes feed and absorb moisture through the leaves of tillandsia epiphytes. The roots only serve to secure them to the bark, stone or tree; they are practically invisible.

Among the epiphytic tillandsias there are both plants with a developed stem and stemless species. Externally, the leaves of atmospheric tillandsias seem very exotic: thread-like, very thin, almost transparent leaves are densely covered with scales and, together with the same thin shoots, form a uniquely beautiful green lace with a silver-gray tint.

The best types of atmospheric tillandsias include:

1. Tillandsia usneiformes(Tillandsia usneoides) is the most common epiphyte Tillandsia, popularly known as "Spanish moss" or "old man's beard". It has thin stems, reaching several meters in length, and thread-like leaves up to 5 cm in length with a width of 0.1 cm, which are arranged in two rows. Thanks to the reflective scales that densely cover the leaves and shoots, the greenery appears gray or silver. This tillandsia has no roots at all. And it grows, hanging from bark, branches, stones like a lacy cascade. An amazing feature of the usneiform tillandsia is that it does not need to be secured to a support, it is enough to simply hang it so that it can grow downwards. This rare lacy beauty also blooms, producing yellowish-light green flowers in the summer.
2. Tillandsia protruding(Tillandsia stricta) flaunts bright greenery with rich colors and resembles blades of grass. This epiphyte forms a dense rosette of narrow triangular leaves covered with gray scales, up to 20 cm long and no more than 1 cm wide. Short, curved peduncles are crowned with a dense spike of inflorescence with spirally arranged oval watercolor-pink bracts and bluish or lilac petals of inconspicuous flowers.
3. Tillandsia tricolor(Tillandsia tricolor) is a compact epiphyte with similar but more linear green-gray leaves forming a very splayed rosette. Straight and long peduncles, either in the form of a simple spike or from several spikes, are distinguished by long bracts, red at the bottom of the inflorescences, yellow in the middle and light green at the top, hiding the purple flowers.
4. Other than thread-like or hair-like amazing Tillandsia silver(Tillandsia argentea) cannot be called. This is an epiphyte with narrow, long leaf blades widening towards the base, bending in a spiral or intricately curved, growing in a kind of bunch from the base of the stems. Unraveling this miracle as a living plant and not a dried grain is quite difficult.
5. A similar effect has tillandsia ruminaceae(Tillandsia juncea) is an epiphyte with reedy, thin leaves reminiscent of cereals and collected in peculiar panicles, which together create an airy, but very bushy rosette.
6. Tillandsia violetflower(Tillandsia ionantha) is an epiphyte resembling exotic corals. It forms miniature rosettes of curved, claw-like leaves with a green-silver color, above which spiky bluish-purple inflorescences appear. During flowering, the upper leaves in the rosettes become red and themselves seem to be part of a fancy flower.
7. Tillandsia "Jellyfish Head"(Tillandsia caput-medusae) is an epiphyte, most similar in appearance to octopuses, jellyfish or squid. The leaves are tightly closed and form a kind of bulbous base, bending to the side only at the top, forming bizarre outlines with juicy light gray leaves sticking out in different directions. Moisture accumulates in the “bulb”, flowing beautifully from the leaf blades. This epiphyte is capable of flowering, producing an unusual panicle of three to five “spikelets” with red granular bracts and violet-blue narrow-tubular flowers that contrast beautifully with them.

Caring for tillandsia at home

Potted tillandsias are stunning accents that are used in modern interiors as bright touches and accents of color. They are easier to grow in greenhouses, terrariums, indoor greenhouses and florariums, but with careful care they grow well in ordinary rooms. These are extremely light-loving plants that require constant care, but not too difficult to recreate in conditions.

Epiphytic species depend entirely on air humidity and the quality of foliar feeding. Since they feed precisely through the leaves, plant care is very unusual and differs from standard procedures - from secluded lighting to high air humidity. Despite this specificity, they can be grown not only in flower displays, but also introduced into interiors, in particular, into the design of bathrooms, where conditions of increased importance are already met.

Beautiful aquariums, florariums, glass vases, flower displays help to use this plant anywhere. The bark, pieces of wood or stones on which such tillandsias are attached look great on their own, and together with an unusual plant they make a surprisingly eye-catching decoration, the whimsical pride of the collection.

Lighting for tillandsias

Individual groups of tillandsias differ significantly not only in appearance, but also in their preferences for lighting. If potted tillandsias are very light-loving crops that cannot tolerate even light partial shade, then epiphytic ones are, on the contrary, shade-tolerant.

Potted species are provided with the brightest possible light, but protected from direct sunlight at any time of the year. The same level of illumination must be maintained year-round, compensating for the seasonal reduction either by rearrangement or artificial supplementary lighting. Potted tillandsias love natural rather than artificial light and feel good on southern, eastern and western windowsills.

Epiphytic tillandsias are not only shade-tolerant, but also shade-loving. Any partial shade or shadow will suit them; they can be safely placed even in the depths of the interior away from windows. They respond better to artificial lighting than potted species and can grow under completely artificial lighting.

Comfortable temperature conditions

All tillandsias love a stable growing environment and do not respond too well to sudden changes in air and substrate temperatures. These plants are rightly classified as heat-loving exotics: tillandsias demonstrate the most active growth at a stable room temperature above 18 degrees. Potted beauties prefer a temperature of at least 18 degrees; lowering the temperature to 16 degrees can greatly harm the plants. But epiphytes are more hardy, they put up with a short-term drop in indicators to 12 degrees.

Despite their status as a greenhouse plant, tillandsias are big fans of ventilation and fresh air. Constant, preferably daily, ventilation is one of the most important “secrets” in growing them. These exotics should not only have regular access to fresh air, but also enjoy its freely circulating currents (plants should not be placed in “corners”, near walls or glass, or in close quarters with other plants). But the fact that tillandsias are not afraid of drafts does not mean that they will put up with any winds.

They cannot tolerate cold, let alone icy drafts, just like other indoor crops. It is advisable that during ventilation the stable air temperature in the room is not disturbed. Both potted and epiphytic tillandsias can be safely moved to fresh air in the summer (the only condition is that the light level remains unchanged). Despite their love of moisture, they need to be placed outdoors with complete protection from precipitation: cold rains can be destructive for plants.

Tillandsia "Jellyfish Head" (Tillandsia caput-medusae). © Kevin Jones

Watering and air humidity

Classic watering is carried out exclusively for potted tillandsias. In epiphytes they are replaced by spraying, and the importance of this procedure cannot be overestimated. However, herbaceous tillandsias require a standard approach to procedures: the soil for these plants should always remain slightly moist, but heavy wetting and complete drying out of the earthen ball should be avoided during the active season from spring to summer. Watering should be moderate and careful, constantly monitored by the degree of drying of the substrate.

In winter, watering is carried out rarely, allowing the substrate to dry completely before each subsequent procedure. It is very easy to control whether the watering regime is comfortable for the plant: when there are signs of lack of moisture, tillandsias gradually curl their leaves, which indicates the need for abundant watering.

Watering itself is not carried out in a very usual way: you should not pour water onto the substrate, as for ordinary plants. Tillandsias are watered inside the rosette and all the leaves are lightly moistened. If the plant does not have enough moisture and the leaves curl, then instead of the usual procedure it is better to water the earthen coma by immersing the pots with the plant in water overnight, and then allowing the moisture to drain freely.

Air humidity is a vital indicator for these plants. But if potted tillandsias can tolerate a drop of up to 60%, then for epiphytic tillandsias a humidity of 80% is considered the minimum acceptable. It is not for nothing that they have earned their title of atmospheric plants: in dry conditions they simply die. It is better to maintain high air humidity by combining the operation of humidifiers (or their homemade analogues) with frequent spraying.

For epiphytic plants, greens are moistened intensively to completely replace watering with spraying (procedures are carried out daily, preferably in the morning). If the temperature drops below 15-16 degrees, spraying cannot be carried out, as well as during the flowering period. For Usnee-like tillandsia, in addition to spraying, immersion of the entire plant in water is used to absorb moisture (no more than once every 2 weeks).

Water for tillandsias of any type is selected very carefully: it must be soft and always warm (at least 5 degrees warmer than the air temperature for potted plants and the same as the air temperature for epiphytic plants).

Fertilizers for tillandsias

This is a unique plant that does not like conventional root feeding: it is better to apply fertilizers for all tillandsias foliarly, spraying them on the leaves. Potted tillandsias can be fed in the usual way, but this approach carries too high a risk of infection due to watering inside the outlet. And the fact that it is the leaves of plants that absorb fertilizers better indicates the need to use foliar spraying.

For tillandsias, either special fertilizers for orchids or complex fertilizers for flowering plants are used. The dosage needs to be adjusted: the amount of fertilizer indicated by the manufacturer for potted tillandsias is halved, and for epiphytic ones - four times. To stimulate flowering in potted plants, you can also use a growth stimulator by spraying the plant with it for 1-2 months.

Both epiphytic and potted tillandsias are fed every two weeks only in spring and summer (for epiphytes, feeding in winter can be destructive, for potted ones it will cause a lack of flowering next year).

Tillandsia transplantation, containers and substrate

Only containers whose width exceeds their height are suitable for tillandsias. Plants develop specifically, growth and daughter rosettes replace the mother ones and growth occurs mainly in width. The root system of tillandsias is powerful, but not voluminous, and in deep containers the plant may suffer from waterlogging and disruption of comfortable conditions.

The substrate for these plants is selected from loose, well-drained soil mixtures with a coarse fibrous texture. For tillandsias, special soil mixtures for bromeliads or orchids are ideal, but you can make your own soil based on equal parts of deciduous soil, humus and peat with the addition of sphagnum, fern roots and pine bark.

Replanting for epiphytic species is not carried out at all (they are sold attached to a stone, bark or tree and grown on the same basis without changing), and for potted species it is carried out only after the volume of the bushes completely fills the free space (the plant grows in width to the walls of the pot , and the roots will begin to peek out of the water drainage holes). Potted tillandsia can remain in one container for 2-3 years, during which time it is only necessary to replace the top layer of soil annually in early spring.

If replanting is necessary, the plant is removed very carefully, carefully replacing the soil, trying not to injure even the slightest roots. The rhizome does not hold Tillandsia well in a loose substrate, so it is necessary to compact and crush the soil, paying attention to making the rosette of leaves stable.

Diseases and pests of tillandsia

Tillandsias are not afraid of almost any typical indoor pests. But they suffer from bromeliad scale very often, and serious damage is possible on any type of tillandsia. This specific pest can only be controlled by washing the plants with a soapy solution and removing scale insects from the leaves, which is not always possible with fragile epiphytic species.

Diseases threaten tillandsia in case of any violation of the conditions of detention. Particularly dangerous are rot and various viral infections, which cannot be combated with fungicides: the damaged parts of the plants will have to be cut out.

Common growing problems:

• leaf curling when dehydrated;
• rotting of the base of the rosette when applying fertilizers with water for irrigation.

Tillandsia propagation

Epiphytic plants reproduce only vegetatively. You can cut off shoots with leaves from adult mother bushes and tie them to the usual base - bark, branches or stones. With an air humidity of 80% or more, the shoots will quickly attach themselves to a new base and begin to grow. You can cut branches of any size.

Potted plants can be propagated both by seed and vegetatively.

Due to the fact that tillandsia annually forms several young plants to replace a faded rosette, you can constantly obtain new rosettes capable of flowering by simply separating them during replanting. True, there is no need to rush into separation: only those “babies” whose size is at least half the mother’s socket can be separated. Sockets that are too weak will not take root on their own. The optimal time for vegetative propagation is spring or summer.

The seeds of the plant germinate well; under normal conditions in a nutrient substrate and under glass, they germinate quickly in bright light. But germinating seedlings requires patience: young tillandsias grow extremely slowly, and will only acquire the ability to bloom 10 years after sowing.

Tillandsia is a delightfully beautiful and colorful plant native to the humid tropics of South America. Thanks to its unusually shaped lilac-blue and pink flowers, it is impossible to pass by, which is probably why, when seeing a plant on the counter, many cannot refuse to buy it. However, caring for tillandsia at home contains many subtleties, and if greenhouse workers can create “greenhouse conditions” for the flower, then a beginner will need a closer acquaintance with a guest from hot countries.

Tillandsia and its varieties

The plant has long, strong, well-developed aerial roots, with which it clings to the bark of trees or rocks. There are at least 500 varieties of tillandsia, but those species that are grown in indoor floriculture can be divided into 2 groups:

• atmospheric or aerial tillandsias- grow well, attached to snags or special supports, do not need watering, but frequent spraying and high air humidity are required;
• potted tillandsias, like most flowers, grow on a substrate, although they do not have a developed root system, this particular species is distinguished by its delightful flowering throughout the summer.

All plants have long and narrow leaves, rich green in color. In flowering varieties, in addition to the inflorescences, elegantly colored in blue-lilac tones, there are sheets of bracts of a bright pink or greenish hue.

Features of caring for tillandsia at home

Once you have become acquainted with a plant such as tillandsia, caring for epiphytic flowers becomes a real pleasure, because their characteristics conceal a lot of interesting things.

Lighting

Both types of tillandsia require bright, but slightly diffused light, while atmospheric plants tolerate partial shade much better. The optimal choice of location is windows facing southeast or southwest, at noon, shaded with light tulle. The duration of daylight should be at least 14 hours, so in winter you cannot do without additional lighting with lamps.

Air temperature

When placing a tillandsia in a room, it needs to be cared for royally; in addition to a stable temperature, it loves fresh, well-ventilated rooms and does not tolerate drafts. Therefore, in the summer, if the climatic conditions of the region allow, it can be taken out onto balconies or verandas.

Optimal temperature:

• in summer - from +20 °C to +28 °C (selected individually, depending on the type),
• in winter - from +18 °C +20 °C,
• critically low - +13 °C.

Important! Tillandsia does not tolerate sudden changes in temperature and can get sick.

Air humidity

The optimal conditions under which tillandsia will thrive is air humidity in the range from 65 to 80%. Usually creating such an atmosphere in a living room is very problematic. An air humidifier will help solve the issue, but if this is not possible, then regular spraying, up to 3 times a day, is necessary. If this is a potted plant, then it can be placed in a deep tray filled to the top with natural pebbles and half filled with water. A driftwood or support with atmospheric tillandsia can also be placed in a decorative container. Having thought through the design well, with the help of such a composition you can decorate the interior in an original way, creating a corner of the tropical forest in the room.

Attention! When spraying, you need to act very carefully - drops of water, even the smallest ones, should not fall on the peduncle. Therefore, during the procedure you can put a small plastic bag on it.

Watering Tillandsia

When caring at home, tillandsia should be watered with soft, warm water. Sometimes it is even recommended to boil the water and soften it a little by adding a few grains of citric acid; its taste should be barely perceptible.

The watering regime is selected individually; the substrate should always be moderately moist, but not damp.

Soil composition for growing potted tillandsia

The soil for all epiphytes is similar in composition, so you can purchase a ready-made mixture for orchids or prepare the substrate yourself.

Components:

• leaf soil - 1 part,
• peat – 1 part,
• sphagnum moss – 1 part,
• dry tree bark (pieces 1-2 cm) – 1 part.

The soil should be loose, nutritious and allow the roots to “breathe”. We must not forget about drainage; it should occupy at least a third of the volume of the container. The pot for planting should be shallow and wide, since the aerial roots will grow to the sides.

Fertilizer application

The best fertilizer for tillandsias is a liquid complex of minerals for orchids. Fertilizing should be done once every 12 days, but the prepared solution should be further diluted with water. The same composition, but with an even lower concentration, can be sprayed. As for atmospheric species, foliar feeding is mandatory for them; they receive all nutrients directly through the rosettes of leaves. Fertilizers can be applied throughout the year, but much less frequently in winter.

Planting and replanting potted tillandsia

Plants are replanted every 2 years or more often if it is noticeable that the pot has become clearly small. The flower is removed from the container, the roots are cleaned of the old substrate and carefully inspected. If dried and rotting roots are found, they are cut with sharp scissors, preferably boiled for 7 minutes. The cut areas are sprinkled with powdered charcoal. The new container is disinfected, drainage is placed on the bottom, after which the roots of the plant are carefully straightened and covered with the prepared substrate. It is important that the soil is evenly distributed between the roots. Having slightly moistened the plant, it needs to be provided with partial shade for the first 24 hours, and then continue caring for the tillandsia as usual.

Advice! To understand how soft or hard water is used for irrigation, it is not necessary to do testing. If a characteristic limescale deposit forms on the inside of the leaves, at their base, then the water should be further softened.

How to grow atmospheric tillandsia?

The “airy” tillandsia looks most impressive on natural driftwood. It can be found on the shore of a pond or in the forest. Having chosen the appropriate model, the wood must be processed. First, the driftwood is soaked in water at room temperature for 7 days. This will not only cleanse it of impurities, but also give it a beautiful, noble shade. Then you should choose a suitable container and install a piece of driftwood in it as a support. You can fix it with plaster or cement mortar, and decorate some of it with natural stones.

If the wood trunk is powerful enough, you can make indentations and fill them with a nutrient substrate; later, tillandsia rosettes will be placed here. If it is not possible to supplement the support with nutritious soil, then do not be upset, the plant will adapt to receive nutrition with the help of leaves, but in this case you need to seriously approach the issue of foliar feeding. Before fastening, the roots of the flower need to be wrapped in sphagnum moss and in this form, using a soft-braided wire or fishing line, attach the tillandsia to the snag.

Atmospheric Tillandsia, home care may seem intimidating, but in reality it is not. Daily spraying, moderately moist moss and the flower will delight you with its beauty for several years. The roots of epiphytes have small hairs, so they perfectly absorb moisture from the environment. These hairs are very fragile and delicate, so you should not touch the plant unnecessarily.

Atmospheric species do not need to be transplanted; they only need to be attached to a support once.

This is interesting! There is a way to additionally feed atmospheric tillandsias, when you don’t have to be afraid of “overfeeding” the plant. After cleaning the tropical aquarium, water is poured into a small basin or other container, the flower is completely removed from the support and placed in aquarium water for 1.5 hours. During this time, tillandsia will absorb as many nutrients from the water as required. This procedure is especially recommended during the active growth phase.

Peculiarities of Tillandsia propagation

Reproduction occurs in two ways: sowing seeds and producing children. It is much easier to provide care at home for tillandsias grown from daughter offspring. You can often notice that small rosettes begin to appear near the mother bush; as soon as they form strong roots and reach half the size of an adult plant, you can plan a transplant and separate the children. It is recommended to carry out the procedure in the spring; the cut areas must be treated with crushed charcoal. Having planted young plants in separate containers, they should continue to be cared for in the same way as for an adult flower.

If there is no urgent need to divide the tillandsia, then it is better to leave the young rosettes in the pot and not separate them. Over time, the mother plant will dry out, but the children will remain and continue to grow. When the container becomes small, they will need to be planted.

You can purchase seeds and try to grow a tropical flower in a box, but in this case you should be patient - the shoots sprout extremely slowly and reluctantly.

Flowering potted tillandsia

It is important to know that only potted species bloom. At the beginning of summer, the plant throws out a long arrow (spikelet), on which graceful and delicate flowers gradually bloom. It is during this period that tillandsias are put up for sale; by this time they reach the age of 2 years. It should not be surprising that after flowering the plant no longer produces an ear and soon dies. Most varieties of tillandsias are arranged this way.

This does not mean that tillandsia care can be left to chance. Under favorable conditions, a lot of children will appear at the rosette, which, upon reaching 2 years of age, will provide a worthy replacement for the mother plant and will also be able to please with the beauty of exotic flowers. It is important to remember that during flowering the plant cannot be rotated or rearranged; changing the lighting will negatively affect its decorative effect.

Diseases and pests of tillandsia

All epiphytes have a fairly stable immune system and are little susceptible to disease or pest attacks. However, it is rare that caring for tillandsia is complete without treatment for the most common ailments.

One of the diseases, the occurrence of which is provoked by stale, cold and too humid air - gray rot. These are fungal spores and appear as gray, “fluffy” spots that resemble mold. Over time, they spread throughout all the leaves. If the disease is not advanced, then you can treat the plant by spraying it with fungicides or a 2% solution made from soap and copper sulfate. Fungal spores can even penetrate the substrate, so it is recommended to replace the top layer of soil, otherwise a new outbreak of the disease is inevitable.

The most common pests: scale insects and spider mites. The scale insect is easily recognized by the protruding brown seals on the surface of the leaves. These small insects can be washed off with a cotton pad soaked in alcohol. Alcohol is good at destroying the waxy coating under which pests hide. After the initial treatment, a course of spraying with broad-spectrum insecticides should be continued.

Spider mites are found quite often on other indoor plants, so all gardeners know what their green “pet” looks like when it is affected by this pest: a silvery web and yellowish dots on the inside of the leaf. If you don’t get rid of it, the spider mite will eventually take all the plant juices, which will lead to its death. You can start treatment by washing off the insects with a soap solution and then spraying. To consolidate the result, it is advisable to carry out a course of treatment with chemicals.

Growing and caring for tillandsia at home is a very exciting process, and is not like caring for other indoor plants. This is especially true for atmospheric species; they can become a true pride of a gardener and arouse the admiration of both household members and guests.

Video of caring for tillandsia at home

One of the most common epiphytes of the Bromiliaceae family, Tillandsia jellyfish head strikes the imagination with its exotic appearance. The plant can really be compared to a jellyfish or octopus. By the way, the latter designation has taken root in everyday life. Indeed, the thick leaves, reaching 25 cm in length, look like the tentacles of an octopus. Depending on the humidity, they either straighten or curl towards the outlet. Their surface is covered with small white fluff, the main task of which is to collect moisture from the surrounding atmosphere. The bases of the leaves are slightly expanded, adjacent to each other, forming a funnel where moisture collects. Beginners in plant growing should be wary of recommendations to pour water into the center of the outlet: with the slightest overflow, the risk of rotting increases sharply.

From the center of the rosette in late spring one or two peduncles with elliptical bracts appear in the form of a bright pink spike. Flowering begins from the bottom and, with proper care, lasts up to two months. The flowers are bright purple, elongated, up to 3 cm long. At the end of flowering, side shoots appear and the mother plant dies.

The content of the article:

Tillandsia is classified as a member of the Bromeliaceae family, which includes more than 400 species of representatives of the green world of the planet. The homeland of this exotic plant is considered to be in the countries of South America: Peru, Chile, Ecuador, Mexico, Argentina, etc. She prefers to settle in a wide variety of areas, which can include both tropical forests and vast savannas with dry air, hot semi-deserts with minimal soil and air humidity, or mountain ranges with so little fertile soil. In general, this is a plant that can adapt to the climatic conditions into which nature brings it.

This incredible green inhabitant of the planet received its name in honor of the botanist and naturalist from Sweden - Elias Tillands, who lived in 1640–1693, who described this plant. What names have not been given to this exotic by associating its appearance with things known to man - “angel hair” is probably the most euphonious of all nicknames, and you can also recall “Louisiana moss”, “Spanish moss”, “old man’s beard”.

Tillandsia can grow both on trees (lead an epiphytic lifestyle) and be located on the soil surface. It is quite difficult to describe plants of this species, since many have completely different external characteristics. Some have a powerful stem, while others lack it altogether. If the plant is epiphytic and its root system is atmospheric (for example, tillandsia is narrow), then their foliage grows up to 25 cm in length, with an elongated lanceolate shape with a width of 5 mm to 2.5 centimeters, the leaf blades are cast in gray-green shades. Representatives of this genus with deep emerald leaf blades can also be found. In Tillandsia varieties of this type, a leaf rosette grows, which is formed by flat-shaped leaves reaching a length of 40 cm, and their surface seems to be strewn with scales. Through these formations, tillandsia absorbs useful substances from the entire space surrounding it. There are types of “angel hair” with completely smooth and glossy leaves. That is, the plant is very diverse!

In the very center of the leaf rosette, a flowering stem begins to grow, which crowns an inflorescence that takes the shape of a spikelet. Usually it has an oval shape and is surrounded by bracts that contrast favorably in color. Usually the bracts are colored pink, their arrangement is double-rowed and so dense that they overlap each other. Among the bracts one can see elongated flowers of a deep blue or purple hue, with rather pointed tips of the petals that deviate downward. The flowering process occurs in mid-summer and continues until the end of August. After the flowers dry up, the mother plant produces a fruit in the form of a small box filled with numerous small seeds. Then Tillandsia begins to die off and subsequently forms numerous shoots.

According to their descriptions, tillandsias are divided into two groups:

1. “Atmospheric” plants, with practically no root shoots, the leaves are long and thread-like, and they are covered with small scales that capture food for “Spanish moss” from the air. These scales cover the so-called leaves so thickly that the sun's rays reflecting on them create the impression of a gray color on the scaly threads - they hang like strands of hair from the host tree on which the tillandsia is perched, and because of their appearance the plant got "hairy" nicknames. These species require high humidity conditions, and special aquariums, florariums or greenhouses are suitable for cultivation, in which the humidity conditions will be quite high; you can also grow these exotics in the shade at low temperatures during the winter months.
2. Plants grown as pot crops with a developed root system and a denser leaf rosette. The leaf blades are distinguished by their lanceolate-elongated or triangular shape. They attract the eye with inflorescences painted in bright shades. These plants are called “green tillandsias”.

The lifespan of tillandsia indoors is on average up to five years. The plant is unpretentious and even a novice gardener can grow it. It grows very slowly.

• Lighting. If you have a potted (green) tillandsia plant, then choose places with good lighting, but without direct sunlight - eastern or western window locations. But “atmospheric” species grow well in the shade; northern-facing windows or places in the back of rooms are suitable for them. On southern-facing windows, tulle or gauze curtains must be hung. You can also stick paper or tracing paper on the window.
• Content temperature. Tillandsia is quite thermophilic. When growing, it is important that heat indicators do not fall below 18 degrees in winter, and for “air” varieties - not lower than 12 degrees. When spring comes, it is important to maintain a comfortable room temperature - 20–24 degrees. With the arrival of summer, you can arrange an “air vacation” by taking the pot with the plant to the balcony or garden, but protecting it from harmful ultraviolet radiation or rain. If this is not possible, then frequent ventilation of the rooms is necessary, but the bush should be protected from drafts.
• Air humidity- it must be maintained at least 60%. If the thermometer begins to show temperatures above 15 degrees, then the plant requires daily spraying, especially if it is an “atmospheric” species. Potted ones can be placed in deep and wide pots filled with water and expanded clay at the bottom, the main thing is that the bottom of the pot does not touch moisture. When the temperature is lowered, spraying is stopped. Spraying is carried out only with soft warm water.
• Watering for tillandsia. Gray varieties of plants do not need watering; they receive all their moisture from the air through leaf blades. Green species require moderate soil moisture. In summer, regular and abundant watering is important. Pour water into the center of the rosette and wet the leaves, the main thing is that the soil is moderately moist. In winter, you need to be extremely careful with moisture, as it is easy to destroy the “Spanish moss”. Moistening is required only if the earthen clod is dry, otherwise the root system will begin to rot. It is sometimes recommended to completely immerse Tillandsia in water. The signal for faster watering will be deformed, curled leaves, which means the soil has dried out. You can help the plant by immersing it in a bucket of water overnight, then removing it and leveling out the moisture schedule. Water for irrigation is needed only at room temperature and soft, free of impurities and salts. You can use distilled or filtered. If possible, it is better to collect rainwater or melt snow in winter, and then heat the liquid before watering.
• Louisiana moss fertilizer. When summer comes, the “angel hair” grown in pots (green tillandsia) requires fertilization every 14 days with fertilizers for flowering indoor plants, and the concentration of the solution must be halved from that indicated on the label by the manufacturer. You can use fertilizer for orchids. It is recommended not to apply fertilizers to the soil, but to spray the leaves, so there is no possibility of harming the flower. Since “atmospheric” varieties of tillandsia receive all their beneficial substances from the air, it is recommended to simply spray them with water in which a quarter of the dose recommended by the manufacturer is diluted. In winter, the plant does not need fertilizer.
• Replanting and selection of soil. In general, gray tillandsias do not require a change of pot or substrate. Other species need to be replanted only once every 2-3 years, when the roots have completely mastered the soil and become visible from the drainage holes, or if the bush has grown significantly. But in any case, it is recommended to change and add new soil. Since the root processes of tillandsia are mostly superficial, the container should be wide, but not deep. If you have purchased a plant that is already flowering, you should not replant it, but only after flowering, when the mother rosette dies and young shoots appear, you can change the pot.

Tillandsia propagation

“Young growth” is usually separated from an adult plant when it reaches half its size. It is better to do this in spring and summer. The substrate for planting is selected to be loose, as for adult tillandsias. Since the root system is not very deep, it is necessary to strengthen the plant in the soil. Such young seedlings will begin to bloom in one and a half to two years.

It is problematic to propagate “Spanish moss” using seeds, since the plant grows very slowly.

Problems when growing tillandsia

It happens that infection with fungal or viral diseases occurs - leaf blades lose color and become transparent, gray-brown spots appear. It is necessary to remove infected areas of the plant and treat with a systemic fungicide.

Tillandsia is affected by such diseases if the planting is very thick and it does not have enough air and light.

Tillandsia species

• Tillandsia usneoides- This is the most common of plants. She became the prototype of all names associated with hair. Thin thread-like stems can reach several meters in length. The leaves are only half a centimeter wide and 5 cm long, arranged in two rows. The shoots and leaves are covered with small scales that give a gray tint. There is no root system. The plant does not need support, the main thing is that it has the opportunity to grow downwards. It blooms with inconspicuous and small flowers of greenish-yellow color.
• Tillandsia ionantha. The rosettes of this epiphyte form curved leaves of a silver-metallic hue. With the arrival of mid-summer, a spike-shaped inflorescence of blue-violet color appears. The leaves that are in the middle become red.
• Silver Tillandsia (Tillandsia argenta) It is distinguished by leaf blades that have a slight expansion at their base and form a dense rosette. Their width is approximately 2 mm with a length of 6–9 cm. They have a bend, which allows them to move away from the center of the rosette in disorder.
• Tillandsia caput-medusae has leaf plates so tightly closed at its base that they form something similar to an onion. And only at the very top the leaves bend in different directions. The bulbous part serves to accumulate drops of water that flow from the leaves. The inflorescence has crimson-colored bracts and deep blue flowers.
• Tillandsia juncea. This Tillandsia variety has leaf blades similar to reed blades; panicles are collected from them, forming a leaf rosette in the form of a bush.
• Tillandsia stricta. The leaf blades have the shape of highly elongated narrow triangles, completely covered with grayish scales. Their length is approximately 7–20 cm with a width of 0.5 cm to 1 cm. There is a spike-like inflorescence on a short and curved peduncle of brass knuckles. The bracts are arranged in a spiral pattern, and their color smoothly changes from soft pink to deep crimson. They have an oval shape and are filmy. The bracts located below are longer and cover the petals of blue or purple flowers.
• Tillandsia tricolor. A leaf rosette is formed, consisting of linearly elongated leaves with a length of 20 cm and a centimeter width. The entire surface is covered with small scales. The long peduncle contains an inflorescence, which can be a single spikelet or a bunch of spikelets. The bracts take on a long elliptical shape, their color goes from the lower ones - bright scarlet, to the middle ones - yellowish to the upper ones - green. The sepals of the flower are bare, wrinkled, fused at their base. Flowers are purple. "Green Tillandsias" are the most famous varieties.
• Blue Tillandsia (Tillandsia cyanea). The plant's leaf blades are similar to those of cereals. They have a reddish-brown color at the base, and along their entire length they have brown stripes on a green background. The entire surface is covered with fine scales. With the arrival of summer, a spike-shaped flat inflorescence appears. The bracts are pinkish or purple in color, and blue or purple or light blue flowers appear along their edges. They wither very quickly. The diamond-shaped flower petals have a slight bend. Usually 1–2 flowers bloom. The height of the entire plant is no more than 25 cm.
• Tillandsia dyeriana. With the arrival of summer heat, a long flowering stem appears from the center of the rosette, the top of which is crowned by an inflorescence in the form of a loose spikelet. Its bracts are deep orange-red.
• Tillandsia lindenii. It resembles blue tilllandsia, but differs in the color of the bracts - soft pinkish or bright scarlet, the flowers are bluish, with a white eye.

Tillandsia is a perennial herbaceous plant from the bromeliad family. In nature, it can be found in America (from the south of the USA to Chile). The numerous and diverse genus is represented by epiphytic and terrestrial varieties. Domestic flower growers grow the exotic and amazing tillandsia as an indoor flower. It is not fussy to care for, but it amazes with its unusual leaves and inflorescences. Sometimes they look like the feathers of fairy-tale birds or the head of a jellyfish, and sometimes other mythical creatures.

Description of the plant

Tillandsia is a herbaceous, slow-growing perennial. Most representatives of the genus live on snags and trees of the tropical forest. Some flowers have adapted to life on the rocks. All of them have a fairly short and fragile rhizome, which serves only for fastening. The main nutrition is through the leaves.

The height of an adult tillandsia is 5-60 cm. The rigid leaf plates have a narrow, slightly curved shape. Red-brown streaks and streaks sometimes appear on the dark green surface of the leaf. The leaf length varies between 5 and 35 cm, and the width is 3-12 mm. The entire leaf or only part of its surface is covered with tiny scales that absorb water and nutrients from the air.

In September, a strip-shaped inflorescence on a strong peduncle blooms from the center of the leaf rosette. The buds are flattened and hidden by hard crimson or orange perianths. They are located in pairs on both sides of the stem. Flowers bloom 1 or 2 at a time. The soft violet-blue petals resemble moths sitting down to rest on a bright spike. The diameter of the open corolla is 20-25 mm. In total, there are up to 20 buds on the inflorescence; their flowering continues until January.

After flowering, the rosette dies and Tillandsia goes into a dormant state. Next season, new shoots will form from the formed buds. One socket lives up to 5 years. Even before the complete death of the mother plant, children can be found on it. It is recommended to separate them in the year of appearance and grow them yourself.

Popular types of tillandsia

The Tillandsia genus consists of more than 400 species. They are conventionally divided into atmospheric and terrestrial plants. Tillandsia atmospherica or epiphytic has a very small rhizome. Its leaves are completely covered with light-reflecting scales, so they are painted gray or silver. The most interesting representatives of this group are the following:

Potted or green tillandsias are grown in the classical way. They select special soil and plant it in a pot. Representatives of this group include the following plants:

Reproduction methods

Tillandsia reproduces by seed and vegetative methods. Only potted varieties can be grown from seeds. In spring, they are distributed on the surface of sandy-peaty soil and lightly pressed into it. The crops are sprayed and covered with film. Containers with seedlings are kept in a room with moderate lighting and an air temperature of +18...+20°C. Shoots appear within 2-3 weeks. After 3 months, 2-3 true leaves form on the plant, and it can be transplanted into a separate pot.

All Tillandsia species produce babies. The shoot with its own small roots can be separated and transplanted. Its dimensions at the time of rooting should be about half the maternal dimensions. Green varieties are rooted in the soil. Atmospheric plants are fixed on driftwood or in a special container. It is filled with sphagnum, charcoal and peat. Tillandsia usneiformes propagates by cuttings. It is enough to separate any shoot and secure it. It will continue to develop as a mother plant.

Transfer rules

For planting tillandsias, use wide and shallow containers, since the rhizome is very modest in size. The plant does not need regular transplants. It is only necessary to periodically replace the old substrate. If a large number of children are formed, they need to be separated and transplanted into their own pots. Atmospheric specimens do not need a pot at all. In stores they are sold with a piece of stump or stone. During transplantation, it is important to be careful not to damage the fragile plant.

The soil for tillandsias should be well-drained and fibrous. It is best to use substrates with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. The presence of lime in the soil is unacceptable. Suitable soil mixtures for orchids and bromeliads. You can compose them yourself from:

• sphagnum moss;
• pieces of pine bark;
• crushed charcoal;
• deciduous land;
• fern roots.

Every spring the top layer of soil is replaced with a new one.

Content Features

Tillandsias require the grower to have experience in caring for bromeliads. These plants cannot be called completely unpretentious. However, it is possible to master the basic rules.

Lighting. All types of tillandsia are grown in partial shade or in diffused light. Atmospheric varieties grow better in dark rooms, while potted varieties require brighter rooms. It is also recommended to provide the latter with direct sunlight in the morning and evening. In winter, green tillandsias need bright light throughout the day.

Temperature. Tillandsias require daily temperature fluctuations of 5-8°C. The optimal daytime air temperature is +22…+28°C. Increases to +35°C and decreases to +10°C are allowed. In summer, it is convenient to put flowers outside, where they will come closer to their natural conditions. On the street, flowers are placed under a canopy. Rain in temperate climates is too cold for them.

Humidity. It is necessary to maintain high air humidity near the plants. The crown is sprayed daily with well-purified water. Atmospheric plants require up to 3 sprays per day. The more intense the light, the higher the humidity Tillandsia needs. In October-February, spraying is carried out in the morning. It is also important to regularly ventilate the room. Every 2 months the flowers are bathed in a warm shower. The procedure should not be carried out during the flowering period, otherwise it will be short-lived.

Watering. The quality of water for irrigation is of great importance. It should be rain-rained or thoroughly cleaned. Chlorine, lime and other impurities affect the growth and appearance of the plant. Plaque may form on the reverse side of the leaves. For atmospheric species, the soil is moistened extremely rarely, only after it has completely dried. Potted plants are watered sparingly but regularly. The soil should always be slightly moist. Water should be poured into the center of the leaf rosette. Periodically you need to immerse the pot in a bowl of water.

Fertilizer. Every 1-2 months, tillandsia is fed with mineral complexes for bromeliads. For a healthy plant, half a dose of fertilizer is enough. They are introduced from March to September. It is important to consider that the flower receives part of its nutrition through the leaves. Therefore, the fertilizer is not only poured into the soil (in the center of the leaf rosette), but also added to the water for spraying.