How to quickly learn how to plaster walls in a new building or an old house at home: do-it-yourself rough and high-quality plaster options. Do-it-yourself wall plastering: types, methods and recommendations Perfect wall plastering

One of the main types of construction work, which is used to level the surface. Regardless of whether the walls are plastered from the inside or outside, the technology of work will be approximately the same.

Do-it-yourself plastering is quite possible even without the experience of such work, but it takes time, methodicality and adherence to technology if you want to get a result at the level of professional craftsmen.

Plastered walls are the basis for finishing: whether you will then paint the wall, stick wallpaper, tile or use decorative types of plaster - for any interior solution, for the final finish you will need a flat surface, which is obtained by plastering.

Types of plasters

Consider the better to plaster the walls. The type of plaster composition depends on the material of the wall and the purpose of the room, it is called by the main binder:

• Cement-sand plaster (TsPSh), despite the abundance of other compositions, remains the most popular, as it is universal. It is indispensable for rough finishing in rooms with wet and damp operating conditions - baths, saunas, laundries, bathrooms, showers and toilets. The solution is kneaded from 1 part of cement and 2.5 ... 4 parts of sand, or ready-made dry building mixtures (CCC) are diluted. TsPSh differs in low cost, convenience in work as long time of drying allows to correct flaws. Among the shortcomings, we can mention the laboriousness, the possible formation of cracks, and long drying.

• Lime plaster sets faster than TsPSH, can be applied on different surfaces. Prepared from 1 part of lime dough and 3 parts of sand. To strengthen the composition, PVA glue is added. Lime plaster is easy to apply and rub over, it is more plastic than cement plaster, but it can crumble as a result of mechanical damage. Also not expensive.
• The cement-lime composition sets faster and is more plastic than TsPSH, more resistant to mechanical damage than pure lime, and therefore is often used for interior decoration of apartments.
• Lime-gypsum composition is used for plastering living rooms, the solution is prepared from 1 part of dry gypsum, which is mixed with water to the consistency of batter, and 3 parts of lime mortar. The advantage of the composition is a quick setting, it is also the biggest drawback, as it requires speed when working.

As a filler, pure river or sea sand with various grain fractions is used, for decorative compositions - crushed shell rock or marble chips, quartz sand.

According to the quality of the surface, the following types of plasters are distinguished:

• simple, consisting of two layers - a spray and a covering layer, with a total thickness of 10 mm, is performed in non-residential premises and under tiling;
• improved is carried out in 3–4 layers - spray, primer and coating layers, total thickness 15–20 mm, most often used in residential and office premises;
• high-quality, carried out according to beacons, in 5 layers, 20–30 mm thick, for especially responsible interiors, decorative compositions are often applied as the last layer.

For simple cement-sand plaster, in order to save money, thin-layer plasters from polymer compositions are also performed.

The process of applying plaster on the walls

In order for the plaster to adhere well to the wall, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work with high quality. All finishing work is carried out at positive temperatures (at least 12 ° C), in winter with the heating turned on.

Preparatory work

At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwork, the type of plaster, the required amount of materials. Further, the purchase of materials, tools, necessary equipment, fixtures and workwear is carried out.

Materials:

• adhesive primer to improve the adhesion of the plaster layer to the base;
• ready-made CCC for mortar or components for mixing;
• putty - for painting and wallpaper;
• beacons for high-quality plaster - metal, plastic or drywall for making yourself;
• perforated corners for corners and slopes;
• cobweb mesh;
• sanding skin.

Tools:

• bush hammer for hammering irregularities on concrete;
• Master OK;
• trowel;
• falcon;
• trowel;
• rule;
• plumb line, cord;
• maklovitsa;
• building level.

Instrument name	View	Material	Purpose
rule		Lath length from 0.5 to 2 m from metal or wood	Checking the correct application of the solution and leveling the surface
Trowel		Metal or wood plate with handle	Throwing mortar on the wall
Falcon		Analogue of a trowel of a different size	Portion set of solution
Poluterok		Wooden or plastic plate	Smoothing the mixture on the surface
Grater		Wooden or metal plate with handle	Grouting a leveled surface, creating a relief
Scraper		Metal	Surface cleaning
Buchard		metal hammer	Roughening
Maklovitsa		Brush	Primer application
plumb line		Cord, cargo	Definition of vertical
Level		Metal	Definition of vertical and horizontal
square		Metal	Surface leveling
Corner Leveler		Metal, type of grater	Alignment of corners, varieties - for external and internal corners
Putty knife		Metal, plastic, rubber	Surface puttying, various sizes and varieties

Technique and fixtures:

• drill with nozzles;
• construction mixer;
• scaffolds for working at height;
• containers for solution and washing tools.

Overalls - goggles, gloves, overalls, shoes.

Surface cleaning

Cleaning old walls consists in cleaning the surface of all compositions - paint and plaster. The preparation of a new wall depends on the material (concrete, brick, gas silicate, wood). Cleaning is done mechanically or chemically.

The paint is washed off with a special chemical solution on a large concrete surface, in individual construction, individual sections are cleaned with scrapers, then the surface is cleaned with brushes with metal teeth and dusted by blowing a vacuum cleaner or washing with water.

Wall preparation

The washed and dried surface is primed with an adhesive solution using or manually, with a brush. Moisturize the wall before spraying.

Surfaces that slightly absorb moisture - drywall, chipboard, fiberboard, OSB are dedusted and primed before plastering to increase adhesion.

Installation of beacons

Performing high-quality plaster is possible without, but it requires a stuffed, confident hand. If you do not have experience, then plastering on lighthouses will give the best result.

Lighthouses are used from galvanized metal, plastic or self-made from moisture-resistant drywall. Metal is durable, but can rust, and rust can seep to the surface, leaving red spots.

Plastic ones do not have this drawback, but they are made from expensive material, and therefore this is an expensive pleasure. An economical option is to cut strips of moisture-resistant drywall with an electric jigsaw to the required thickness of the plaster layer, but installing them is more difficult.

Finished beacons are mounted on self-tapping screws, checking the vertical and horizontal levels. is carried out from the left corner of the room, the first fastening is at a distance of 320 cm from the ceiling and the corner of the wall. The lighthouse is installed second on the opposite side of the wall, then the cords are pulled along the lower and upper faces of the lighthouse and intermediate ones are installed along them, in increments of 10-15 cm less than the length of the rule.

Solution preparation

Proper preparation of the solution is troublesome, to get the best result there are a few simple rules:

• for a better setting, a little PVA glue can be added to the cement-sand and lime mortar;
• for lime mortar, it is better to use lime dough, since slaking lime on your own is not safe;
• the binder is introduced into the solution in a thin stream with continuous stirring.

Stages of preparing a mixture for plaster

Various manufacturers produce dry mixes in bags of different sizes, which eliminate the need for self-screening of sand, measuring out the binder and filler in the right proportion, for example, a Knauf rotband.

splatter

Spray - the initial layer, obtained by throwing the solution with a trowel on the wall. The solution should lie flat. The wrapped edges of a portion of the spray indicate a lack of water in the solution, flowing down indicates an excess of moisture. Then the applied solution is spread over the surface with a grater.

Spraying is carried out with grabs up to 1 m high and wide, after 20-30 minutes the excess solution is removed by the rule, in zigzag movements based on beacons.

For thin-layer plasters and even surfaces with good adhesion (gas silicate, foam concrete), spraying is not required.

Priming

The primer is the second layer, applied in the same way, but with a layer of no more than 1.5 mm. After 2 hours, the surface is brought to perfect evenness with a trowel, then the wall is moistened with water and smoothed again with a trowel.

Nakryvka

Nakryvka - the finishing layer of plaster, for subsequent cladding or sheathing is not needed. The coating is applied with a layer of 1–2 mm, after the solution has set, the surface is rubbed with a falcon in a circular motion in a run, then vertically and horizontally.

Difficult to remove areas

The corners of the room and the ceiling require special attention. Sections of the walls along the boundaries of adjacent surfaces are plastered last, leveled with a trowel with a right angle or a special tool.

The wall behind the radiator, if there is not enough space to work, can be filled and leveled with a short rule in one run.

After the plaster has matured for 3-4 weeks, depending on the composition used, the final coating is performed - wallpapering, painting, cladding or applying a decorative composition.

Plastering of external walls

Stucco has long been used to protect external walls from bad weather. For plastering external walls, solutions with different binders are used:

• cement;
• acrylic;
• silicone;
• silicate;
• lime.

Previously popular compositions based on clay and lime, the advantage of which was availability and low price, have now practically ceased to be used due to fragility and instability to mechanical damage.

Work is carried out at positive temperatures, including in winter, manufacturers of finished compounds require temperatures above 5 ° C, in the absence of sun, strong wind and precipitation.

Types of facade plaster

There are many types of facade plaster:

• protective;
• adhesive compositions for insulation systems;
• decorative, which is structural, textured, terrazitic.

Formulations can be ready-to-use from dry mixes and building preparation, the latter are more difficult to prepare, and precise dosing of ingredients is required. Solutions can be tinted and not tinted, for subsequent painting with facade paints.

Preparatory work

Preparatory work is similar to work during internal plastering:

• calculation of the need for materials;
• purchase of materials, tools and fixtures;
• wall surface preparation.

We will not dwell on the first two points, they are described above.

Brick wall preparation

Prepare a brick wall: clean from mortar residue, dust and dirt, open the masonry seams for better adhesion to the new plaster layer, rinse and prime with adhesive primer.

Instead, jointing for better adhesion, you can fill a notch on the wall or fix a plaster mesh, which is desirable in case of poor masonry preservation.

If plastering of a new wall is provided, then bricklaying should be carried out in a wasteland. Before starting work, clean the wall from dust and dirt, mortar stains and oils, rinse and primer.

How is a concrete wall prepared?

The preparation of even concrete walls, especially factory panels, consists in notching recesses for better adhesion or installing a plaster mesh. The metal one is mounted on the wall with the help of plates and anchors in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 600x600 mm in width and height.

Substrate preparation for lightweight concrete

The laying of walls from cellular blocks - gas silicate, expanded clay, foam block or cinder block is brought out exactly according to the level, and therefore the surface of the walls from large-sized blocks turns out to be even and does not require thick-layer plaster for finishing.

Lightweight concrete is a porous material with excellent adhesion; before plastering, such walls are cleaned of dirt, mortar stains, oils and primed with adhesive primer.

Wood wall preparation

Before plastering, it is necessary to protect the walls from fire and pests, to perform a water-repellent impregnation of the wall with a special composition to prevent the wood from absorbing moisture from the solution.

Then the surface of the walls is protected with kraft paper or special membrane films, on top of which a plaster mesh is fixed with a stapler or wooden shingles crosswise at an angle of 45 °.

Methods for applying plaster

If thin-layer plastering is performed without the use of a plaster mesh, the work is done in one pass: the prepared mortar is applied to the wall with a trowel, leveled with a trowel and a rule, then we apply the required texture using a plastic trowel. The depth of the texture depends on the size of the sand grains and the force of pressure on the grater, the pattern of the texture depends on the direction of movement of the grater:

• bark beetle requires up and down movements;
• rain is received by movements at an angle;
• lamb give circular movements with a grater;
• performed using a special roller.

Thick-layer plasters are applied to the wall in the same way as for interior work.

Wall insulation with plaster systems

For fastening insulation boards made of polystyrene foam (polystyrene), extruded polystyrene foam (foam) or mineral plates, cement-based adhesives with plasticizing additives are used.

Work order:

1. Insulation plates are attached to the prepared surface with a fixed starting profile using an adhesive composition.
2. After the mixture has hardened, the plates are additionally shot with dowel screws.
3. On the surface of the plates with a layer of 3–4 mm, the same adhesive composition is applied, into which a reinforcing mesh is embedded with a spatula.
4. The wall is re-plastered.
5. Perform a finishing coating - decorative plaster or painting.

How to plaster slopes

The slopes have some expansion, the obtuse angles of the slopes are formed with a wooden lath of the required size or special beacons. To remove an even obtuse angle between the wall and the slope, it is better to use a special metal tool - a kind of falcon.

Painting

Both exterior and interior walls are often painted with paint as a finishing touch. For outdoor work, frost-resistant paint is used that is resistant to UV radiation and bad weather with a durability of at least 10 years. For outdoor decoration, it is undesirable to use bright colors and saturated shades of blue, since this pigment fades most quickly under sunlight.

Painting is carried out manually or mechanized - with an airbrush. Mechanized painting gives the best result - lie down more evenly, consumption is less.

Interior painting is done in the same way.

Approximate prices for plastering work

Prices for plaster work depend on the type and quality of the wall material, the composition of the mortar, the type of plaster, the method of application and the class of the performer.

Average prices in Moscow for plaster (in rubles / m2):

• layer up to 30 mm - 380;
• layer over 30 mm - 420;
• slopes in m / n - 440;
• decorative plaster - from 620;
• Venetian plaster (first layer) - from 1320, (second layer) - from 540.

Above this price, high-class specialists ask, prices below - should alert.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself plastering requires a steady hand, time and consistency. There is nothing supernatural in the work, but if you doubt your abilities, it is better to hire professionals.

The sequence of repair and construction work must always be carried out in a certain order. In order to properly learn how to plaster walls with your own hands, you will need to know the five steps of this process.

So let's take a look at these 5 important sequences:

1. Preparatory work for plastering. This includes cleaning the surface (on which the plaster mass will be applied), by removing old plaster, etc.
2. Preparation, dilution of the mass of plaster.
3. Applying plaster to walls.
4. Mashing.
5. Puttying.

Preparatory work

What is under paragraph 1 can be done by anyone, since this work does not require special knowledge.

You will need to remove old cracked plaster from the wall.

If this is a log wooden wall, then it will be necessary to align the shingles (glazing beads) there, which are nailed with small nails. Shingles are wooden slats with a thickness of 5-10 mm, a width of 15-20 mm, and a length along the height of the wall.

Reiki are nailed either vertically or diagonally cross to cross. The distance between them is 20 cm. All the plaster rests on them, so the surface of the lath mesh must be even.

In some places where the wooden lath fails, it is required to lay pieces of the lath until it is completely leveled.

If it is a concrete or brick wall, then there will also be some nuances. On a fairly smooth wall, you will have to make furrows, more often this is done with a chisel. The seams between the bricks make furrows from one to two centimeters (to facilitate the work, you can first moisten the wall with water).

According to the rules, a newly built wall is not recommended to be plastered, since fresh masonry will still sit down after a while and the dried plaster will crack.

On concrete and brick walls, where there are irregularities, so-called beacons are used, which are usually planted on vetonite.

The preparatory work also includes laying on the floor of polyethylene or cardboard close to the wall. Falling plaster on the floor is inevitable. Mixture that has fallen on a clean floor without debris can be used.

Breeding the mixture with your own hands

The proportions should be different for each type of plaster.

If lime-sand plaster is used, then the ratio of lime and sand is one to two. This mixture is used for working with concrete walls from the inside.

For stone walls, a plaster mortar is diluted, consisting of lime, sand and cement, the ratio of which is 1: 1: 4. For those who are not familiar with the ratio system, I suggest: in this case, 1:1:4 means that lime is taken, for example, one scoop.

For plastering wooden walls, a solution containing lime, sand and alabaster is used. Also, first, 1: 2, lime is mixed with sand. After that, alabaster is added to this mixture one to one or half to one with lime (or the same volume as lime, or half as much).

This mixture is suitable for walls where there is low humidity. Not suitable for plinth, cornice and in rooms where there will be high humidity.

Lime-gypsum mixture. This type of solution is stirred in a small portion, up to 5 liters.

This is due to the rapid solidification of gypsum. Suitable for stone, brick and wood walls.

The ratio of gypsum and lime is as follows: to 1 scoop of gypsum (already dissolved in water), from 2 to 5 of the same scoops of lime are added. In preparing the solution, the following conditions must be observed: first, water is mixed with gypsum. It is water with gypsum, not gypsum with water.

That is, first you need to pour water, and then pour gypsum powder and mix quickly. The mass should resemble sour cream in viscosity. Next, pour lime into this mass and mix thoroughly.

This solution will keep usable for up to 10 minutes. Therefore, at this time it is necessary to have time to put it on the wall.

The next type of plaster is a cement-lime mixture. The ratios of such solutions are from 2:2:12 to 2:4:18. That is, in proportion it will look like this: for 2 scoops of cement, from two to four scoops of lime and from 12 to 18 scoops of sand are used.

The method of preparing cement mortar is of two types:

1. First, lime is mixed in water, then cement is added to the lime mass, after which sand is added. The solution should be mixed well so that no lumps remain.
2. Mix cement in water. Then lime and sand.

Such a cement-lime mortar is used for plastering exterior walls, cornices, plinths and inside the building in places of high humidity.

Another type of mortar is cement-sand. Such a solution has a good feature: it is very durable and at the same time elastic. The ratio of such a solution is from 1:1 to 1:3. That is, for one scoop of cement, from one to three scoops of sand are used.

And first you need to dry mix the cement with sand, then add water. This is done to prevent the formation of lumps. The proportions of the prepared solution depend on the brand of purchased cement. If cement M-400 is taken, then the ratio should be made one to four.

This solution is applied to the walls in separate parts where the humidity is exceeded.

You can bring the solution to the desired consistency as follows:

1. If the solution turned out to be liquid, then you can remove excess water by putting a dry ordinary brick there. It will absorb moisture, and the solution will be the desired consistency.
2. If, on the contrary, the solution is thick, then you can make it ready for use by adding a little water.

Starting to mix

Here in this procedure some skills are already required. The art of applying a plaster solution to a wall is the right thing to do. It is important to be able to apply the solution with a certain force and sharpness so that it sticks and does not splatter and fall.

Correctly applying plaster on a wall can only be done by plastering a few hundred square meters and having enough experience.

And what about grout?

The grouting process is carried out a couple of hours after the main solution is applied to the wall surface, that is, it should already become hard, but not yet set.

This is very important, since starting the grout early can cause the base mortar layer to move out. If you are late, it will be very difficult to smear it.

For grouting, a special board with two handles measuring 20x120x1000 millimeters is used, it can also be used with one handle. It's called a polutorka. She needs to move in a circle. At the same time, the guide beacons will not allow you to cut off a large amount of mortar, the beacons are set strictly according to the level.

The thickness of the applied solution in one stage should not exceed three centimeters. Therefore, if a thick layer is important, then it must be made from several layers.

The break between each layer is up to two days.

On the walls of houses, that is, directly where they live, plaster is usually applied in several layers:

• the first layer is liquid, contains cement, is needed for bonding;
• the next layer (leveling) is thick, should smooth out all the errors;
• the third layer is decorative, up to five millimeters thick. For a decorative plaster solution, only fine-grained sand (sifted) is used, and cement without lumps and, if possible, colored. The second layer is rubbed with a grater, and the third decorative layer is rubbed with a grater. The grater is a wooden canvas measuring 20x120x200 mm, has one handle. The working surface of the grater must be sheathed with felt.

Surface polishing process

Even the last decorative layer of plaster will not have a perfectly smooth surface. Therefore, the next step will be puttying, which will prevent the formation of dust on the wall. In a residential building, oil putty is applied with a spatula.

Putty is applied to the wall in a thin layer.

Putty walls should be a month after applying the main layer of plaster. It is better to putty the walls outside and in auxiliary rooms with an iron trowel. It would be more correct to iron these walls, as they say.

That is, with an iron trowel (trowel), a certain amount of dry cement is rubbed into a plastered surface pre-moistened with water. If you properly plaster the walls in this way, then the plaster will be glossy and pleasant to look at, moreover, moisture resistant. Ironing should be done immediately after the completion of the plastering work.

Conclusion on the topic

Having chosen the right mixture and with a little practice, you should be able to cope with the tasks. Good luck with the repair!

A useful video on how to properly plaster walls with cement mortar:

Many theoretically know how to plaster walls, but not everyone can do this work on their own. After all, it has its own requirements and features.

In this article, we will look at how walls are plastered and what to consider during the work. On the video in this article and the photo you can see the most difficult areas of work.

Before deciding how to plaster walls with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the requirements, which no doubt exist. After all, plastering work, as well as other construction and finishing activities, must meet a number of requirements listed in the latest edition of SNiP:

• The maximum horizontal deviation per meter of the working surface does not exceed 2 mm, vertically - 3 mm. On a wall area of ​​4 sq.m, the appearance of two irregularities up to 3 mm deep is permissible. This concerns the satisfactory quality of work;
• For good quality plaster, vertical and horizontal deviations are no more than 2 mm, and there are 2 or less irregularities up to 3 mm in size per 4 sq.m;
• Plastering deserves the highest score if it meets the specified quality parameters: horizontal and vertical deviations - 1 mm, existing irregularities in an area of ​​​​4 square meters do not exceed a couple of pieces and go deep into a maximum of 2 mm.

Basic rules for performing plastering work

The choice of how to perform work is determined by how serious wall defects are:

• If the slope of the surface, as well as protruding tubercles or depressions, are practically invisible, then after applying the solution, it is leveled with a rule without any auxiliary fittings;
• If wall defects are visible to the naked eye, then beacons must be placed before applying the composition. They will be a pointer for leveling the surface and determining the thickness of the applied composition. Work on applying plaster using only the rules is quite easy to carry out. More questions arise when performing construction activities with the installation of lighthouses.

Rules for conducting work on plastering

All work is done in a certain order and it must be followed.

Technically it looks like this:

Now, how best to plaster the walls, we will analyze the points and in detail.

List of tools, equipment and consumables

Instructions on the rules of plastering begin with the right tool (see Wall plastering tool: what you need for the job). Therefore, we start with this.

Required:

• Plaster mixture of a certain composition of components (the most popular mixture is cement and gypsum-based);
• Composition for priming surfaces;
• Primer roller and brush for hard-to-reach places and corners;
• Trowel or spatula (about 15 cm wide) to apply plaster;
• Beacons (they are perforated aluminum guides);
• Perforator and drill of the appropriate size;
• Dowels and screws to make markings;
• Level for measuring the inclination of planes;
• The rule is a rigid metal or wooden rail up to 2.5 m long;
• Ironed from steel;
• Scissors for cutting metal or grinder.

Preparing walls for plastering

You saw the preparation in the table. But here it is necessary to analyze this process in more detail.

• To begin with, we need to decide on the application layer. To do this, we stretch the fishing line along the diagonals of the plane, then you can immediately see the necessary layer. If it is less than 2 cm, then the application can be done in one go. If the layer is larger, then several layers must be applied. If the thickness exceeds 5 cm, then it is better to level the plane with drywall (see Installing drywall on the wall: how to quickly and inexpensively hide all defects).
• Now it is necessary to clean up unnecessary wallpaper, plaster and other coatings that do not adhere well and, in the future, may lead to the removal of the applied layer of plaster.

• Another necessary step is to increase the adhesive qualities of the wall. If there is a hard-to-remove multi-year paint coating, then a notch is made on it with a spatula. Plaster shingle contributes to better adhesion of mortar and wood walls. In the presence of an impressive area of ​​​​work, the use of a sandblaster will be most welcome.
• When plastering with a layer of large thickness (up to 5 cm), work is carried out on the installation of a reinforcing metal mesh. In order to avoid the appearance and development of corrosion, the mesh is treated with a special anti-corrosion compound.
• For better adhesion of the surface and the working composition, prevention of the formation of mold and fungi, as well as protection from moisture, priming is carried out.

• For surfaces sensitive to dampness, with bumps, pores and other defects, a deep penetration primer is used. "Betonokontakt" - a composition that will be ideal for processing a concrete wall. The work is done with a brush or roller.

The implementation of the marking and the error-free installation of beacons is not only the most difficult stage of finishing work, but also the most important. At this stage, it is determined what thickness to apply a layer of plaster, and, in accordance with this, the levels are set strictly vertically and horizontally to level the finished mixture.

So:

• First of all, they look for the biggest irregularities - tubercles and depressions. To do this, the rule is brought to various sections of the walls. All found defects are marked with a marker. It's practical. In the future, the most noticeable ledge will be used as a guide.
• After detection and fixation of surface defects, marking is carried out. For these purposes, dowels with self-tapping screws and a rope are used. Work is performed sequentially. Only after finishing with one wall, they begin to work on the other. First, tighten the top and bottom screws. The distance from the ceiling and the floor should be 15 - 20 cm, and from the corners - about 30 cm. This is due to the fact that the beacons are shorter than the distance between the floor and the ceiling.
• The segment on which it is planned to place intermediate screws near the floor and ceiling is determined as follows: when working with a rule of about 2–2.5 m long, they are placed at a distance of 30–40 cm from each other. They start from the corner, so that later it will be convenient to level the mixture between the beacons. At this stage, a building level is useful, it will help to make an even vertical line.
• As a result, 4 self-tapping screws will be installed on the working surface in the corners plus intermediate ones, located at the intersection of vertical lines and horizontal ropes. Using the level and the rule, the heads of the existing self-tapping screws are placed within the same plane. This procedure must be approached with all responsibility, since this will determine the level for setting guides.
• At the next stage, beacon guides are installed and fixed with a ready-made composition. Its consistency should be such that it does not flow along the wall. Using a spatula or trowel, a little mixture is thrown onto the work surface and the beacon is lowered into it so that it is located in the same plane as the head of the self-tapping screw located on the vertical line of the breakdown. By the same principle, the remaining beacon profile is placed. The correct location of each of them is determined by the building level and the rule.
• After completing the procedure for installing beacons, the screws are removed.

How is plastering done?

If the repair is carried out using a cement-sand mixture, then this recommendation must be taken into account: the thicker the layer is required, the larger the sand grains in the mixture should be. You can do the work with other mixtures, you can see the proportions for preparing the solution in the photo.

• To prevent the plaster from drying out while the selected area is being finished, it is kneaded in small portions. A liquid solution is suitable for forming a thin layer, and a thick one for a denser one.
• To mix the working composition, take a separate container. And with the help of a construction mixer or a special nozzle on a drill, plaster is prepared. First, 1/3 of the water is poured into the container, and then the special mixture is slowly poured out. Only after the solution has become homogeneous, it can be applied to the selected area.

• From time to time, it is recommended to spray water from a spray bottle onto the surface intended for plastering. This is necessary if there are pores and roughness, as they absorb liquid from the plaster, because of this it can crack and flake off.
• Using a spatula or trowel, the resulting composition is thrown over the area in the middle of two beacons. To make the mixture stick to the wall better, make an effort. Areas near the floor and ceiling are treated at the very end. Ideally, the width of the area on which the composition is applied should be greater than the distance between the beacon guides. Thus, the area near the beacons will be filled with plaster.

• Further, using the rule, the plastered area is leveled. The rule is applied with a pointed part to the edges of the guides. It is important to position the tool perpendicularly. If this recommendation is not followed, then the excess layer will be removed.

• They start leveling the wall from the floor, gradually moving towards the ceiling, while the tool should move in a zigzag from one side to the other. So that the assembled composition does not have time to dry, it is immediately thrown onto a higher area. If voids or bubbles form in the layer of the working solution, they must be removed immediately, since in the future, due to the rapid drying of the composition, this defect cannot be eliminated. The selected segment is leveled until excess plaster remains on the rule.
• When finishing with cement mortar, leveling should not take more than 12 hours. During this time, the plaster does not dry completely. If two or more layers are to be applied, it is recommended to wait until the previously applied layer has hardened.
• After the cement mortar dries well and becomes solid, they begin to fill the sections at the top and bottom of the wall with the composition.
• Openings at doors and windows are plastered flush with them, or overlapped.

In the event that the defects in the treated area were very serious and it was necessary to apply a solution with a thickness of more than 50 mm, perform the following steps:

• Comply with all previous points;
• Take a break in processing for 3 - 4 days;
• For better adhesion, notches are applied to the surface;
• Carry out another priming;
• Apply another layer of working solution.

Grouting plaster

The area treated with the rule becomes even and smooth. However, to achieve the ideal result, this is not enough. It is required to perform a mandatory procedure - grouting.

• A special plaster solution is prepared in advance, resembling liquid sour cream in density. The finished plaster is applied to the selected area.
• Using a metal iron, the composition is carefully rubbed until the surface is perfectly smooth. Grouting work is recommended to be carried out before the main layer of plaster dries, while it is damp and can be easily processed.

Attention: When leveling the walls in the shower room and then laying the tiles, it is not necessary to grind the plaster. This is due to the fact that the adhesion of glue to a rough surface is much better than to a flat and smooth one.

And now, how to dry the walls after plastering, this is done at natural temperatures. Some also use heating devices, but there is one caveat here, at high temperatures the coating may begin to crack, so pay attention to this.

Slopes are classified as complex surfaces. If you have not been plastering, then try to do this work on a flat surface.

• Lime-cement and cement plaster can be purchased ready-made in hardware stores or made by yourself. Do not use expired formula.
• Always use drinking water to mix the solution. There are a lot of impurities in technical water, which leads to the appearance of a white coating on the plaster.
• For the preparation of solutions, use only fine sand. The smaller it is, the higher the smoothness of the plastered surface.
• If the working air temperature is below +10 °C, then prepare the mortar using Portland cement.

Attention: Concrete and reinforced concrete surfaces can only be plastered 28 days after they have been poured.

• Plastering surfaces with any solution can only be done after the obligatory priming of the base.
• The primer is applied only 8 hours after spraying, so that the mortar sets and dries.
• It must be remembered that beacons made of wood or metal must be removed after smoothing the plaster.
• Where it is planned to clad the surface with ceramic tiles, you can simply prime it.
• Do not leave a void under metal profiles.
• Use an angled trowel to level the plaster at internal corners.
• Wall painting or wallpapering can be done two weeks after plastering with gypsum and 28 days after applying cement mortars.

If you are thinking about how to plaster adobe walls, then this work is done in exactly the same order. Never rush and do everything carefully, the instructions will help you not to make mistakes. You can find how to decorate walls without plaster with other materials on the pages of our website.

We offer detailed complete instructions for the walls with your own hands. It will help even a novice master to cope with difficult work.

Varieties of plaster mixtures

Two types of materials are used to level surfaces. Their main difference lies in the basis on which all the characteristics of the solution depend. It could be:

• cement;
• gypsum.

Quartz sand of different grain sizes, plasticizers and other fillers are added to the base, which determine the purpose of the plaster paste. So, coarse sand allows you to level significant differences, while fine sand is used only for applying the last layer, covering small roughness.

Let's look at the pros and cons of each type of material.

Cement compositions

Differ in special durability, resistance to mechanical influences. They are not afraid of moisture, they can be used in rooms with special conditions: kitchens and. They do not collapse from temperature changes, are durable, have a low cost and can be made by hand. Even significant differences are well leveled. If a layer with a thickness of more than 20 mm is applied, a reinforcing mesh must be used.

Lime, clay, gypsum can be used as fillers, giving plasticity, antiseptic properties. Of the shortcomings, it should be noted a large mass of cement mortars. They give a significant load on the base, which must be taken into account. Low ductility leads to shrinkage and possible cracking. For the same reason, laying such a paste is quite difficult. Moreover, it does not fit all grounds. Cement dries for a long time, completely hardens only after a month.

Gypsum mixes

The main advantage is plasticity and ease of application. The paste fits well on any base and adheres firmly to it. Gypsum is lightweight. Even a thick layer of such a mass will not make the structure heavier. It never shrinks, practically does not crack. Dries much faster than the cement counterpart. The finishing mass is so good that subsequent puttying is most often not necessary.

The most significant disadvantage of the material is hygroscopicity. Gypsum easily absorbs water, soaks and collapses. Therefore, the use of gypsum varieties for outdoors or rooms with high humidity is prohibited. Moisture-resistant mixtures for interior styling are available, but they should also be used with caution. The disadvantages include the high cost of the material and the inability to manufacture it independently.

Further actions will vary depending on the material with which to work.

Concrete

Such a base is quite smooth, in order to improve its adhesion to the mortar, it is recommended to make notches. They are performed at a small distance from each other, deepened by 10-15 mm. Then they cover everything with a primer. Given the hardness, the work will be very laborious. Therefore, you can do otherwise: prime it with a special primer. Select a deep penetration adhesive primer.

It contains sand, which, after drying, should remain on the base. Sometimes this technique does not work well, so it is recommended to test the primer before plastering. They treat a small area and wait until it dries completely. Then they pass by hand. If the roughness is well felt and the sand does not crumble, the entire surface is treated. Otherwise, notches are made.

Brick

Despite the fact that it is quite rough on its own, it is recommended to go over the cleaned material with a grinder or a wire brush. The seams between the bricks must be expanded, so the mixture can get into them, which will improve the adhesion of the plaster. Then the dust is removed first with a brush, and then with a damp cloth. Finally, two coats of primer are applied.

Tree

In order for the plaster mass to be firmly fixed on a wooden base, it is necessary to equip the crate. It is made from slats, which are also called shingles. Elements are nailed diagonally. It is important to use only high-quality shingles, additionally treated with an antiseptic. Otherwise, it will quickly rot and destroy the coating.

To make the task easier, you can use a chain-link mesh instead. It is nailed to the slats that fit between the base and. They, like shingles, can serve as beacons in the alignment process. In this case, the elements are set strictly according to the level. All wooden parts are treated with an antiseptic and dried well, only after that you can plaster the crate.

Beacon application technology

It is used to equalize significant differences. Metal guides are used as guidelines that will show how the walls are. Don't skimp on buying them. High-quality metal can subsequently be left inside the base, and it will not rust over time. Parts of dubious quality are best removed, which is quite laborious.

Guides are installed along the entire length of the wall at a distance of about 150 cm from one another. Such a distance is chosen so that during the alignment process the rule moves along two adjacent profiles. They are set strictly according to the level and securely fixed to the base. The easiest way to do this is to use a gypsum mortar, which sets quickly and holds the elements securely. You can mount on self-tapping screws, but it is more difficult.

Then the plaster solution is prepared. This must be done in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Next, proceed to plastering:

1. Sketch. Pour the mixture onto the base. You can do this manually, with a trowel or with a special device if mechanized laying is expected. A thick paste is drawn onto the tool and with some effort “splashes” onto the base. A layer about 5 mm thick is placed on concrete, and 8-9 mm on wood. We put the rule on the beacons and stretch the coating from bottom to top, leveling it. Leave for at least 2 hours to dry.
2. Priming. Prepare dough mixture. We apply it with a wide spatula, performing movements in an arbitrary direction, but with some effort. Using the rule, we check the quality of the alignment. We remove all protruding areas with a grater moistened with water. Gently rub a small amount of solution into the cavities. Leave to dry for at least 3 hours.
3. Nakryvka. We prepare a solution of a creamy consistency. You can apply it with a spatula or draw it into a ladle and pour a small amount of liquid paste on the wall from top to bottom. We smooth it with the rule, completely leveling the base. We let it dry for 8 hours, after which we slightly moisten it and clean it with a construction grater.

To make everything clear, we suggest watching a video on how a beginner can plaster the walls with his own hands.

Alignment without beacons

Used to level surfaces with minor differences. Landmarks-beacons are not set, so the quality of work is necessarily controlled using a level. All steps are performed in the same sequence, except that during the sketch, the leveling of the mixture is not done with a rule, but with a grater. The technology is shown in more detail and fully in the video that we offer to watch.

Plastering yourself is not so difficult, even if a novice master takes up the matter. Skills are developed on the job. Before taking on the finish, it is advisable to practice on a small area. So you can identify all the "weak" places, work with them, get the necessary skills and a little experience.

What is plaster, many know. This is a finish that gives the building a complete look, serves to protect structures from adverse effects, prolonging the life of the structure. You can entrust its implementation to professional plasterers, but even a beginner can plaster walls with his own hands.

This requires practice and knowledge of some basics. And skill comes with experience. What is plaster for? How to make wall plaster in a new building? What is needed for wall plastering? We will try to answer important questions for a beginner here.

Why you need to plaster the walls in the apartment

Even a loft-style interior is just an imitation of raw wall surfaces. Plastering walls in an apartment solves many problems in a complex way.

Plaster coating:

• strengthens brickwork;
• protects concrete, aerated concrete surfaces from the penetration of dampness from the air;
• prevents the formation of fungal or moldy lesions;
• protects wood from cracking, rotting, insects, rodents;
• levels uneven surfaces of walls, ceilings;
• serves as an additional heater;
• absorbs noise;
• creates a comfortable microclimate in the apartment;
• monolithizes the inner surface of the apartment, sealing the seams and joints of structures;
• protects wood from fire;
• protects building structures from external influences;
• levels surfaces according to state standards, as a result of which tiling or plasterboarding, wallpapering, painting is facilitated.

It is more expensive to change a wall or partition than to change or repair plaster vestments. Modern plaster compositions please with durability - the service life reaches 25 years or more. Plastering the walls of the house at the same time solves many problems.

The main types of plaster

As a building material and as a type of finish, plaster compositions have been known since antiquity. The ancient Latin name is stucco, stucco has survived to our time.

Plaster compositions are:

• for interior decoration;
• universal application.

Finishing solutions are:

• decorative,
• ordinary,
• special.

Conventional compositions are used for rough plastering of walls and ceilings, monolithic joints.

Depending on the quality of the surface, the plaster finish can be:

• high-quality - wall decoration ready for painting or wallpapering, performed by spraying, multi-layer application of primer and final coating;
• improved - for utility rooms in residential buildings, as well as for rough finishing, consists of three layers - spray, soil (main layer), covering, leveled with a rule and wiped with a trowel;
• simple plaster, consisting of two layers - spray and soil, is applied without hanging, leveled with a trowel, used for plastering basements, warehouses, utility rooms.

Decorative compositions that differ in texture and color are used for finishing, which does not need wallpaper, cladding or painting. Special plaster compositions are used to perform certain tasks. For example, they are used for additional thermal insulation of an apartment (), protection from ionizing rays of medical equipment (), treatment of damp house walls ().

The composition of plaster solutions includes binders that make up the base, fillers, water (or solvent), as well as functional additives. Since the main components of plaster compositions are binders, after curing they become similar to stone or plastic, plaster compositions are classified according to the type of base.

Cement

From the name it is clear that the main binder of this type is cement. The simplest plaster composition -. The finish is durable, frost-resistant, inexpensive. Suitable for indoor and outdoor plastering work. Manual or mechanical application possible. It is commercially available in the form of dry mixes (SS), which include modifying additives. The solution can be prepared with your own hands.

cement lime

Lime has been used as a plastering agent long before the invention of cement. highly plastic. Using this quality, lime is used as an additional binder in cement-lime mortars.

Manual application or mechanized plastering is possible. The composition is prepared independently, or they acquire a ready-made dry plaster mixture. It is used for rough and decorative finishing. Suitable for finishing wooden surfaces.

Gypsum

Natural material is easy to fit, plastic. More expensive than previous plaster mixes, but it has its own advantages. perform high-quality plastering of the walls of rooms with normal humidity. Decorative SSs are also produced. Application manual and mechanized. Good for foam concrete.

Clay

Natural binder, used not only in rural homes. Clay is environmentally friendly, helps to maintain a favorable microclimate in the house. can be applied by hand. Waste is practically non-existent. Even the dried solution can be soaked again, mixed and applied to the base. Repairable.

decorative

This type of plaster materials is the most diverse. SS and ready-made solutions are produced by many companies, both Russian and Italian, French, German and others. Are issued on, polymeric bases. Distinguish, colored, terrazite compositions.

What is the best mix to do the job?

The choice of plaster mix depends on several factors:

• base material;
• destination (technical for leveling or finishing);
• the degree of unevenness of the base (large or small differences);
• requirements for resistance to a humid environment (high or normal humidity);
• operating conditions (whether chemically aggressive environment, temperature conditions);
• strength characteristics (setting speed and grade);
• the complexity of performing plaster work (may be decisive for beginners or in the case of a geometrically complex surface).

If you plan to plaster the walls with your own hands, then those that stick better to the base are more suitable for a beginner, easier to fit, have a long life and quickly gain strength.

What are the application methods

Depending on the size of the surface to be plastered, as well as the incoming components, the methods of applying plaster can be:

• manual (trowel, roller, trowel, bucket or just hands);
• mechanized (using a hopper, plastering machines).

The choice of application method is often dictated by how much plaster can be applied per pass. When performing work manually, some types of mixtures are applied with a layer up to 6 cm thick. Mechanical application is limited to creating a layer up to 20 mm.

Among the manual methods of plastering walls, there are methods of application:

• technical (leveling) finishing with or without beacons;
• decorative (application with various tools, surface formation by various methods) finishes.

Manual application

Do-it-yourself wall plastering consists in applying the mortar to the base with a hand tool, leveling, smoothing or forming a textured surface in one pass, or in sequentially creating a multi-layer coating. Manual plastering of walls is usually performed with a small coverage area, a total leveling layer thickness of up to 10 - 12 cm, and finishing textured finishes. With multi-layer finishing, each layer is dried.

mechanized application

It is rational to use this method of performing plastering work when there is an optimal combination of plastering speed, low cost of materials (part of the funds are saved on expensive machine work), and a large amount of coverage.

Plastering walls using a plastering machine is more economical in terms of:

• the cost of forces;
• time spent;
• consumption of plaster materials;
• financial expenses for the purchase of plaster mixtures, which are cheaper for machine work.

Other pluses:

• small volumes of waste;
• uniformity of overlay and gain in quality, due to machine control of the ratio SS - water;
• applying the mixture to the surface under pressure increases adhesion with the base;
• due to the uniformity of mixing and layering, the overall strength characteristics of mechanical finishing are higher than manual ones.

Minuses: not always applicable everywhere

Mechanical equipment for plastering varies in complexity. They use small-scale mechanization (hoppers, spray guns) or even machine devices that mix the plaster mixture and apply it when air is supplied by a compressor.

The mixture is applied, holding the nozzle 20–30 cm from the wall, moving the working part of the apparatus along the surface at the same speed. After finishing work, all parts in contact with the solution are washed and dried. Be sure to use eye protection.

Crack repair

It is common for new buildings to undergo a shrinkage process within a year or two. Plastering new houses with mineral plasters during this period leads to cracks. Cracks are also found in houses with a long service life. All cracks need repair. Large cracks require special repairs. "Heal" such defects with the use of reinforcing meshes.

Cracks with an opening up to 5 mm are considered small. It is allowed to cover them with putty or cement, more liquid than masonry mortar. Opened up to 10 mm medium cracks on the surface are “treated” with a CPS solution (cement-sand), having previously expanded it. Large (more than 10 mm) formations are sanitized by the CPS with a solution using crushed stone and reinforcement.

They try to pump the solution deeper into the crack crack, using a construction syringe for this. The section of the brick and concrete wall, before sealing the cracks with a solution, is cleaned of dust and moistened. A piece of mesh is applied over the area with the smeared body of the crack, which is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. Plaster the area over the mesh.

How to prepare walls for plaster

Beginners will benefit from knowing how to prepare walls for plastering. start with an inspection.

Need to find out:

• what wall material?
• how strong is the base;
• how firmly the plaster coating, if any, holds;
• whether there are exfoliated places (check by tapping);
• Are there any other defects that need to be fixed?
• how even the walls themselves are (measurements are taken).

General training

According to the norms, the base for plastering must be dust-free, free of biodamage, oil and rust stains, efflorescence, non-insulated metal parts (staples, nails, self-tapping screws). The plaster coating has a considerable specific gravity.

Before plastering the walls with their own hands, they make notches, deepen the seams to increase adhesion. The base is primed, then dried. In addition, the preparation includes the installation of beacons, if plastering is carried out on them.

Priming of walls and installation of beacons

Dismantling of old plaster

If the old plaster coating is strong and adheres well to the wall, the walls are plastered over the old plaster. The coating, unnecessary for subsequent finishing, is removed completely. This is required when the old plaster cover is badly damaged.

Before removing the finish, it is moistened using a sponge. If there is drywall under the plaster being removed, then it is easily tapped. Having knocked and chipped a partially exfoliated area, the adjacent plaster is snapped off, turning a corner of a spatula or chisel under it.

For complete dismantling, you may need:

• Bulgarian;
• hatchet;
• hammer;
• putty knife;
• perforator;
• scraper;
• spray;
• goggles, respirator.

Necessary tools for dismantling old plaster

Sequencing:

• soak the plaster coating, give it time (15 - 20 minutes) to soak;
• with a spatula check the state of looseness of the layer;
• the layer is removed by possible means (with a spatula, chisel, hatchet, or by sawing the finish into squares with a grinder, followed by chipping with a puncher with a chisel attachment).

Concrete wall being prepared

Often, inexperienced people have problems when plastering concrete walls with their own hands. With a base of this kind, not every plaster mortar adheres well. Previously, plaster mortar was applied to concrete surfaces without the use of primers. Therefore, there is a possibility that the old coating may fall off the concrete wall along with the new one.

To prevent this from happening, the old finish is completely removed from the concrete walls. When the structure is exposed, the joints of the wall panels are also exposed, which were usually simply smeared superficially. Hollow joints are filled with foam before otshutakurivanie.

Foaming concrete slabs and scoring before plastering

Also, before plastering, notches up to 3-5 mm deep are applied to the concrete surface with an ax, chisel, bush hammer or hammer. For notching, a light jackhammer with a bush hammer is sometimes used. Irregularities increase the adhesion of dense concrete bases with slabs.

If the wiring is planned in strobes, then its laying is done before plastering. Fasteners, such as hanging hooks, are installed in advance.

This eliminates unnecessary costs of labor, time and materials in the future.

Wood wall preparation

Wood especially needs preparatory work. Notching is not always rational. Therefore, before plastering, wooden bases are upholstered with shingles - thin laths no wider than 20 mm. The shingles are nailed to the surface of the base, placing the slats at an angle of 45 degrees to the floor, at a distance of about 4.5 cm from each other.

Narrow or crooked shreds are stuffed first. The second row of shreds is nailed on top. So that the planks do not split during the nailing process, the ends of the shingles are soaked.

In addition, at the ends of the slats, they are not nailed close to each other, leaving a gap of 2 - 2.5 mm. Stuffing nails with wire interlacing over them helps to do without shingles.

To increase the heat and noise insulation of wooden partitions, the boards are covered with burlap or matting before attaching the shingles, lowering the woven material until it comes into contact with the floor. Having nailed along the bottom, pull and attach the upper end.

These materials adhere well to solutions, serve as additional insulation for boards, reduce wetting and warping of the latter. Then the plaster coating cracks less. The edges of the fabrics are overlapped.

Brick wall preparation

In brickwork, masonry joints are deepened by about a centimeter before plastering. Do this with a chisel, holding the tool at an angle of up to 45 degrees to the surface along the seam line. Bricks are cleaned of contamination with metal brushes. Then the wall is washed.

If, after washing with the use of detergents, greasy or tar stains, efflorescence appear, they are treated with special means, or mechanically cleaned to a clean material. After preparation, the base is dried.

Aerated concrete, gas block, foam block

How to prepare walls from these materials? With them, it would seem easier. All protruding irregularities are ground with a grater designed for aerated concrete, or with a planer. After removing the dust, cover with a primer with a brush or from a sprayer twice. Dry between priming, allowing crystals to form and fill surface pores.

Wall priming Installation of reinforcing mesh Installation of beacons

Partitions and walls made of foam, gas blocks do not shine with strength, therefore they can crack at the slightest subsidence of the foundation. To strengthen the surface, it is reinforced with a fiberglass mesh, which is attached to a 2-3 mm layer of tile adhesive. Glue is smeared with a spatula and stretched with a trowel. Apply glue with a strip about a meter wide. A strip of mesh is applied to it, smoothing it from the center of the strip up and down.

Having installed the grid, install beacons. Before plastering, a layer of glue is applied over the mesh with a spatula, combing it (to increase adhesion) horizontally with a notched trowel. Dry.

Arbolite slabs

Due to their roughness, arbolite boards always adhere well to plaster finishes. Therefore, no additional measures are required. Some plasterers attach a metal mesh to the wood concrete to strengthen the wall itself.

Whitewash

It is impossible to plaster on lime whitewash, because the coating will not hold firmly. Whitewash is always multi-layered, and plaster adheres only to the top lime film.

Whitewash is removed in several ways:

• removed with a spatula (wet painstaking method) - the areas are moistened, after 15 minutes the soaked lime is removed;
• removed with a grinder (the minus of the method is a lot of dust, you need to work in a respirator and glasses);
• apply the paste with a brush in a thick layer on the whitewash. After drying, the paste crust, which held together the calcareous multilayer lime, is removed with a spatula (the most dustless method);
• wash off with soapy water (half a piece of grated soap, 5 tablespoons of soda in a bucket of water), repeatedly wetting the whitewash with a sponge or brush;
• washed with acid solutions.

Plaster on painted walls

According to generally accepted rules, the paint should be removed before plastering. However, if it does not apply to damp rooms, as well as bales with a large dead weight, a strong film of paint can not be removed. Light gypsum plaster applied over the paint holds well.

Paint removal methods:

• soaking for 20 minutes with removal with a spatula (for water emulsion);
• the use of special softening solutions;
• heating and softening with a hairdryer, scraping with a spatula;
• removal with a metal brush;
• removal using mechanical means - grinders, etc.

Preparation of painted walls for plastering includes:

• drawing on the base painted with enamel or oil paint notches passing through the paint film;
• removal of exfoliated areas with a spatula;
• removing the glossy layer with sandpaper or a grinder;
• removing dust with a damp cloth;
• degreasing oil stains with a solvent;
• drying the prepared base.

Necessary tools and materials

List of what will be needed for plastering:

1. for the preparation of the solution - containers, mixer, mortar mixer;
2. for application - spatulas (in a simple way - a spatula), ladle, trowel, trowel, rollers, brushes;
3. for stretching, leveling - grater, trowel, rule;
4. for priming, forming a relief pattern, coloring: rollers, brushes, brush, sponges, stencils, other improvised means;
5. for measuring, marking, installing beacons - level, plumb line, tape measure, masking tape, cord;
6. for coloring - brushes, sponge, rollers, spray gun;
7. for protection - goggles, respirator, gloves, work clothes

From the materials you will need:

• components of the plaster composition, SS or ready-made compositions;
• water;
• primer;
• shingles;
• lighthouses;
• reinforcing mesh;
• fastening details - dowels, screws, nails;

Required material for plaster

What is plaster on lighthouses

The technology of plastering the walls of the house includes options:

• under the falcon (alignment without a rule, by eye);
• under the rule (does not make it easy to achieve high evenness of the walls);
• by lighthouses (high quality finishes).

By eye (without beacons), it will not work to plaster a curved wall with high quality. Therefore, the falcon-like wall plastering technology is used only in new buildings with high quality walls, or in utility rooms where surface quality is not important.

Lighthouse - a bar, the surface of which serves as a guide for the rule, driven by the plasterer when leveling the mortar applied to the wall. Lighthouses are made of metal, plastic, wood, or from a mortar used for plastering. Beacons have a shelf height of 6 - 10 mm, are attached to the base with mortar or self-tapping screws.

The installation of lighthouse strips is carried out according to a plumb or level strictly vertically after priming. First, extreme beacons are set 30 cm from the corners of the walls. The surface of the slats forms a vertical plane, focusing on which intermediate slats are installed. The distance between the planks is made less than the length of the rule by 20-30 cm. It is more rational for novice plasterers to place beacons with a meter step.

When plastering on beacons, the mixture is applied in layers until the mortar rises above the planks. The protruding mortar mass is cut off with a rule tightly pressed to the beacons, moving it in a zigzag manner.

The excess is removed from the rule with a trowel or spatula and placed where the mixture is lacking. As a result, the surface of the mortar to be leveled forms a vertical plane. After the mixture has set, the beacons are removed, and the remaining grooves are filled with plaster.

Stucco reinforcement

Mineral plaster compositions do not have elasticity, and therefore, like natural stone materials, they can crack at the slightest movement of the base and form cracks during the hardening process, for example, if plaster solutions are greasy. In order to reduce crack formation and their opening, the plaster is reinforced.

The same is done when repairing large cracks. The use of reinforcement increases the strength of the finish. The installation of meshes is necessary in problem areas, for example, at the junction of bases made of different materials, for example, walls made of wood and concrete. Different characteristics of materials cause them to behave differently when temperature or humidity changes. Consequently, cracks will form in the joint area.

For reinforcement, meshes are used from:

• metal;
• plastic;
• fiberglass;

The choice of material and mesh size of the reinforcing mesh depends on the main task of reinforcement and the installation site. If powerful meshes are installed to reinforce facade finishes or create a plaster casing for insulation boards, then for interior finishes, as well as where the plaster layer is small, plastic or fiberglass meshes are used.

Grids are a hidden structural element located in the body of the plaster closer to the surface. With a large thickness of the plaster coating, two or more grids are installed. When attaching the mesh to a wall or ceiling, a gap is left between the mesh and the base, which is filled with adhesive or plaster mass. Do this so that no air bubbles remain around the mesh cloth. The grid must be recessed.

To fix the mesh on the walls, its panels, stretching, are nailed or attached with self-tapping screws. Adjacent canvases are overlapped. It is important to tighten only so that there is no sagging, so that the wall does not turn out to be a curve. Do not overtighten.

If the mesh material can corrode by chemical reaction, for example, with lime plaster, the mesh is protected by coating it with asphalt or coal tar varnish, oil paint, or cement laitance with drying.

Solution preparation

There are three options here:

• preparation of the mixture by mixing the components yourself;
• dilution of the SS composition with water or diluent;
• mixing the finished plaster dough before use (with or without the addition of a small amount of liquid).

If you yourself prepare a mixture of components purchased separately, then you need to follow the sequence of mixing the constituent substances.

DSPs are prepared in the following order:

• loose dry substances (sand, cement powder, perlite, stone chips) are placed in the container;
• stir;
• separately prepare a liquid (lime milk, water with a plasticizer, etc.);
• while stirring, gradually pour the liquid into the dry mixture until the desired consistency of the solution is reached;
• the composition is allowed to “rest” and brew for about 5 minutes, after which it is mixed again.

Preparation of dry mixtures Mixing mortar Ready-made mortar

If the mixture is prepared in a mortar mixer, then it is permissible to first pour some water into it, then add other components. The remaining water is added little by little, controlling the consistency of the dough.

Purchased CCs are closed following the manufacturer's instructions, which are in the detailed instructions on the package. Ready mixtures in buckets are also mixed before use to restore uniformity to the composition. If the plaster solution is painted, it's time to add color.

For some plaster compositions there are nuances. For example, perlite sand is very dusty. It is moistened before kneading. In addition to knowing the rules for preparing the base, you will need information on how to properly apply the plaster itself on the walls, in what sequence, how much and how it should dry.

How to apply plaster on the walls with your own hands

The mixture can be applied by throwing and spreading. Plastering surfaces in the first way is more dense, the finish adheres more firmly to the base. You can throw the composition with a ladle, a spatula (trowel) with a steel sheet. The solution is scooped from the container and thrown from the tool to the base, where it lies down and sticks with a thick blot - a “slap”. Spread the dough with a spatula, trowel, falcon.

The solution, applied to a spatula or trowel with an auxiliary spatula, is transferred to the wall with a stroke of a given thickness. The plasterer puts the tool with the dough against the wall at an acute angle, and leads it along the wall, decreasing the angle as the material is transferred to the base. If the smear starts on a previously made smear, the technique is called “wet to dry”.

If the smear starts on a dry spot and ends on another smear, the technique is called "dry to wet". Compliance with techniques is important for decorative plaster. How to apply the finishing decorative finish can be found in another section of the site. Next, we offer a detailed description of the method for performing a rough finish on concrete.

For performing improved and high-quality plastering of concrete walls, the technologies are similar. The first two stages of wall plastering are similar. The difference is only in the end.

The first stage - spraying

For spraying with plaster, a mortar mixture with a thinner consistency is used. The thickness of the layer on concrete, brick, aerated concrete, the thickness of the spray coating is 5 mm, for wood - 9 mm (with mesh).

Step-by-step instructions for performing a spray:

1. on a spatula or in a ladle we collect a solution from a container and throw it on the wall between the beacons;
2. we make sketches, filling with “slaps” a section about 100 - 120 cm high (bottom-up);
3. having covered the area between the beacons with a spray, we level the “slaps” a little with a spatula so that there is no empty space left on the site;
4. we draw the surface of the layer with the sharp edge of the spatula to increase adhesion;
5. do the same, spraying to the top of the wall;
6. we spray the following sections of the wall, leave to dry.

The second stage - the ground

The main (base) layer applied over the spray is called the primer. To create a thick multilayer coating, there may be several of them. For the soil, a thick dough is prepared. For application, we use spatulas and a rule.

Ground execution:

1. On a wide spatula with a narrow one, we put the dough from the container.
2. We transfer the solution to the wall, slightly pressing it into the traced grooves of the spray.
3. We remove the mixture protruding above the beacons from the bottom up with the rule, pressing it against the beacons and swaying it in a horizontal direction. The solution removed by the rule is thrown into a container or transferred with a spatula to where it is lacking.
4. After drawing the rule from bottom to top a couple of times, we draw the rule from top to bottom. After such wiring, the solution will not slide down the wall.
5. We plaster the rest of the wall in this way.
6. We are waiting for the solution to set, remove the beacons, cover the formed channels with the solution.

The third stage - the finishing layer of the coating

The composition of the coating is done with the same proportions as the base. The consistency of the solution of normal fat content is less thick than for the soil, and the sand is taken in a fine fraction (up to 1.5 mm). Such a mixture is easier to fit, it is more plastic. When rubbed, it forms a smooth surface. The recommended thickness is 1.5 - 2 mm.

Filling voids and applying the finish coat

Walkthrough:

1. If the plastering was carried out without removing the poppies, then the coating is applied to the soil that has not yet dried. Dried soil can be moistened with a roller.
2. Apply a covering, leveling it with a rule. In this case, the solution fills the resulting voids and small depressions. The excess mixture is removed.

Grouting plaster

This stage is final. Grout eliminates the smallest errors.

Alignment is carried out - compaction of the barely dried surface of the covering - grouting with a grater. The tool is not pressed hard so as not to pull off the drying layer. Perform smoothing in a circular motion (grout "round"). Only in the corners the grater is held and led parallel to the corner. More pressure is applied to the elevated areas, crushing, the pressure is reduced in the recesses.

Excess protruding mixture, gathering at the corner of the grater or trowel, is cleaned off. The drying layer of the coating is sprayed from time to time with water from a spray bottle or moistened with a soft brush. Circular grouting possible with very small amounts of grout

After grouting, smoothing is immediately performed - grouting "in dispersal". Rectilinear vertical movements (up and down) are made with a clean grater with rounded corners. The grater is pressed with the same force, without taking away from the surface. They process it square by square (areas of about 1m2).

Smoothing (not an obligatory operation) is performed in the same way as “spreading out” grouting, only it is done with a rubber, metal or felt-wrapped grater. Treat the surface twice. Once, leading the ironer (in one direction) from top to bottom, the second time - horizontally.

Finishing

Why and how to grind plaster? This procedure is performed to remove the slightest protrusions remaining after plastering or puttying, if painting or wallpapering is planned for the final finishing of the apartment. The layer of paint is thin and reveals even the most minor flaws. They are removed by grinding.

For grinding by hand, sandpaper, a sanding mesh or a sanding block are used. Under the wallpaper, it is enough to treat the surface with sandpaper with a grain of 60. For paint, you need to re-grind with sandpaper 120. As a result, a polished surface is obtained. After grinding and dusting, do-it-yourself wall plastering can be considered finished. A little information about how corners are made.

Corner plastering

The words "husks" and "whiskers" will not say anything to an ignorant person. Meanwhile, these are the professional terms of plasterers, denoting internal and external corners, respectively. The technique of plastering them is different from applying plaster to the walls.

The main techniques used by plasterers:

• using a profile corner;
• with lighthouses;
• with a counter-shoulder (perforated corner having an aluminum base));
• with sickle (tape mesh made of fiberglass or synthetics with an adhesive layer);
• without a counter.

Contrashultsy can be used to obtain husks and mustache.

Step-by-step technology for making an angle using a counter-shoulder:

1. Cut the perforated corners to the desired length.
2. The corner is attached to the corner, pressed most tightly in the most “outstanding” place, then, using the rule, the counter-shults are pressed so that it is strictly vertical (check with a level or plumb).
3. The excess mixture released during installation is removed with a spatula. The mixture is then allowed to dry.
4. After installation, the corner is aligned with the wall with the help of a test. The shelves of the corner are at the same time inside the plaster mortar. The corner of the countershoulder protects the protruding corner from damage.

Aligning a corner with a wall

Making an external corner along a profile corner:

1. Cut profile corners of the desired length;
2. Beacons are installed on the adjacent walls (the corner is plastered before the work on the wall is completed);
3. A contact solution is applied to the corner with a thick layer (the mixture is stretched along the entire length along the inner corner).
4. Next (already thicker) soil is applied on both sides from the corner to the nearest lighthouses.
5. The corner is attached to the corner, the mesh is pressed against the mixture, with the help of the rule, the solution is leveled along the beacons on one, then on the second wall.
6. The excess mixture removed by the rule with a spatula is added to where it is not enough.
7. The profile corner and the mesh are inside the plaster layer.

How to check the quality of wall plaster

The accuracy of finishing is checked with a rule or a long two-meter rail. When it is drawn along the surface in different positions (horizontally, diagonally or vertically), deviations from the plane are detected visually. In the dark, you can check the quality of the plaster by directing the flashlight beam parallel to the plane of the wall. Long shadows will give out protruding bumps.

By measuring and comparing the two diagonals of the room, you can check whether the corners of the room are right. The diagonals must be equal in length. The distance between parallel walls is the same along their entire length. The correctness of the angle can be checked by drawing vertically along a square with a side length of 50 cm or more.

The quality of the surface finish is determined visually. It should not have darkening or other kinds of spots. Casement windows, vents and doors should open without interference. The areas around sockets, switches and door frames, along the perimeter of the floor, should be even so that the overlay strips, skirting boards and trims fit snugly against the wall.

If you are going to make repairs to the apartment, and you do not have the experience of covering the walls with plaster with your own hands, you should not despair. After reviewing the information presented, watching the videos, you got an idea about the main types and techniques of plastering.

Detailed information about plaster compositions, how to apply decorative mortars, can be found on the website. When contacting plasterers, you will know what to look for, how the work should be done, what this or that stage is for.