We make the scooter ourselves. Wooden structures at home. DIY scooter from old bicycles

A scooter, of course, is not, but it allows you to save a lot of energy on moving, especially if you use it constantly.

A homemade scooter is easy to make, its cost is minimal, and the benefits for the health of the body are simply invaluable! After all, it is known that constant, uniform loads strengthen the heart muscle and increase the overall tone of the body. A scooter assembled by yourself greatly helps to increase endurance, if, of course, it is used daily.

Wooden scooter for commuting. The scooter was made of 10 mm plywood and 28 mm furniture board, the latter went to the support platform.

The front fork of the scooter is taken from a standard bicycle (20-inch wheel), the rear wheel has a smaller diameter (12 inches).

The scooter was assembled with your own hands, self-tapping screws and furniture corners were used as fasteners, except for the glue, all parts were glued with PVA glue.

Over the summer of 2012, more than 600 km were covered on a homemade scooter.

It is worth adding to this description that such a homemade scooter is much better than a purchased one. I have not seen a normal scooter with pneumatic tires at an affordable price. Even scooters with 2 suspensions (for each wheel) from Decathlon do not allow driving on grass or a country road, and when driving on paving slabs or chipped asphalt on the roadway, they “knock” and vibrate very strongly, which makes riding very quickly boring.

Bicycle wheels used in a homemade scooter allow you to avoid such shaking, and the large diameter of the wheels helps on off-road conditions. In addition, you yourself can design the ground clearance of your scooter, if you ride on a country road - make it larger!

With proper manufacturing and subsequent treatment with varnish (preferably waterproof - for example, yacht varnish), a homemade scooter will serve you for many years!

More articles for DIYers.

Instead of a preface

Folding mini-scooters rolled into our lives like lightning. Outwardly, they are not much different from each other. The main difference is in the names. For example, the foreigner “Scooter”, the Russian “Zzhik” and “Moonshine” and so on.

The modern scooter is a product of interspecific hybridization of the classic running machine by K. F. Drez - a scooter (the design diagram is taken from it), a skateboard (support platform) and roller skates (polyurethane rollers).

The development of the scooter continues, so it is quite possible that completely unusual examples will appear. Moreover, when riding a scooter, when pushing, muscular energy is realized most effectively; more muscles are used than when riding a bicycle.

If a folding mini-scooter is a thing for sports and entertainment purposes, then the “Dachnik” scooter, which I want to talk about here, is a thing for household purposes.

Development of the idea

Pushing with my hands a handcart on wheels - the main means of small-scale transport mechanization of the era of transition from developed socialism to a market economy, I once realized that there was clearly a lack of a support platform with a wheel. After all, by placing one foot on such a platform and pushing off the road with the other, you could ride on a cart, like on a scooter.

However, an attempt to adapt a platform with rollers from a skateboard to a cargo trolley was not entirely successful due to the poor quality of the sliding bearings of the wheels of the cargo trolley, and besides, the maneuverability of the crew left much to be desired. But my family didn’t allow me to completely ruin my son’s skateboard.

In this regard, it was necessary to develop a cargo-passenger scooter. I don't pretend to be a new idea. At one time, engineer S.S. Lundovsky built a cargo-passenger scooter, but in his design the luggage rack platform, taken from a road bicycle, was raised too high, and the structure itself, assembled on the basis of a children's bicycle, did not have sufficient strength.

The main material for the manufacture of the proposed below homemade scooter(Fig. 1) a used car rack made of steel tubes and inflatable wheels from a children's bicycle measuring 12.5"x2.25" (205x56 mm) were used.

The main elements of a homemade scooter

Front fork

For the front fork - steering column, I selected steel pipes with a diameter of 20 mm, although pipes with a diameter of 22 mm would have been better suited. At the ends of the flattened fork pipes, slots are made for installing and securing the front wheel axle (Fig. 2).

The part (bridge) that combines the stays into the fork is made of a channel with a flange width of 75 mm and a length of 120 mm, bent from a steel sheet 3 mm thick. Two holes with a diameter of 20 mm are drilled in the channel at a distance of 90 mm from each other to install fork-column pipes in them (Fig. 3). These pipes are welded to the bridge using circumferential seams. Between the holes for the column fork pipes in the bridge flanges, a hole with a diameter of 22 mm is drilled for the rotary axis - a piece of pipe 1/2". To increase the “torsional rigidity” of the front fork, a jumper and a ring with a diameter of 300 mm are welded to the steering pipes, which is bent from steel thin-walled pipe with a diameter of 10 mm.

The bearing assembly of the steering column is made of a plumbing tee with 3/4" threads (see Fig. 3). As already mentioned, the rotary axis is a piece of 1/2" pipe with threads at the ends. Axial clearances in the bearing assembly are eliminated using brass washers, which, by the way, reduce friction in the hinge.

The scooter frame consists of three parts (Fig. 4). Before assembling it, it is advisable to draw a general view of the scooter in full size on a sheet of plywood. If you make a scooter for yourself, then its dimensions are naturally adjusted to fit your own dimensions. The experience of S.S. Lundovsky shows that a ground clearance of 30 mm is quite sufficient for a scooter.

The S-shaped part of the frame is bent from a 3/4" pipe using a pipe bender, which is always available in the workshop at the housing office. At one end of the pipe a 3/4" thread is cut to connect to the tee. To prevent self-unscrewing, the threaded connection of the tee with the frame pipe is secured by installing a cotter pin into the hole drilled in it (the connection) (see Fig. 3).

The rear of the frame is a front fork from a road bike. The fork is inserted into the pipe of the front S-shaped part, and the joint is welded using a circular seam. A 15x15 mm corner bridge welded between the stays strengthens the fork. Subsequently, a support platform (step) and a rear mudguard are attached to it.

The footrest is cut out of plywood 10...12 mm thick and secured with two M6 screws (with a conical head) to the jumper and one screw in the fork (see Fig. 1). Corrugated rubber, for example, from an old rug, is glued or nailed to the footboard with small nails.

When transporting the scooter on public transport, the steering column axle is removed and the frame is disconnected from the front fork. I note that the front fork with a wheel can be used autonomously, like a regular unicycle cargo cart.

Additional scooter equipment

For better stability of the scooter, its trunk should ensure a low center of gravity of the load. The heaviest parts of the cargo are placed on the sides of the trunk “saddle-style.”

The scooter's equipment must include good splash guards and reflective reflectors. The front is white, the sides (on the wheels) are yellow, and the back is red. The more reflectors installed, the better. Plastic handles from ski poles or bicycle handlebars are placed on the ends of the steering tubes. It is useful to equip the scooter with a “Matchish” type sound signal and a brake with a drive on the rear wheel.

By providing the possibility of installing a seat on the trunk for a small passenger, for example, from a stroller, where the seat is equipped with footrests, we turn the scooter into a self-rickshaw. If the seat does not have side rails in the front part, it is necessary, like on a motorcycle, to install a ring or handle, which the passenger will hold with his hands while driving. The basis of the backrest for the passenger will be a ring welded to the steering wheel pipes.

An easily removable fairing-awning made of transparent film or Bologna fabric with a transparent window, mounted on a flexible frame made of thin-walled pipes, will protect the passenger from the effects of adverse climatic factors, providing the traveler with more comfortable conditions. When driving with a passenger, the load is placed behind the steering tubes, lashed to the ring, like a pack (Fig. 5).

Taming of the Shrew

Learning to ride a scooter begins on a flat asphalt area. The main attention is paid to practicing a long and strong, but not sharp kick with the foot, and they also try to master the movement of coasting, by inertia. Please note that the steering wheel must remain completely motionless when coasting, as otherwise the resistance to movement increases and the speed of the scooter decreases.

Past and thoughts

The design of a homemade scooter presented here is more of a working prototype, the shortcomings of which are obvious. First of all, the diameter of the rear wheel is excessively large, which increases the dimensions of the roller skate. Excessive cross-country ability, generally speaking, is useless, since on difficult sections of the road it is better to dismount and overcome them, rolling the carriage with luggage by hand.

Perhaps the best option would be to install a rear wheel with a reduced diameter, for example, from a Sibiryak roller ski. As a front wheel, it is probably advisable to use a wheel with a tubeless tire from the Druzhok bicycle, as it is not afraid of punctures.

It should be noted that in the West, scooters with an internal combustion engine with a displacement of 28 “cubes” are now extremely popular. If you are lucky enough to acquire a small-sized motor from a Mac Cullog chainsaw, then you can easily make a similar projectile by equipping the roller with a motor.

A scooter, of course, is not, but it allows you to save a lot of energy on moving, especially if you use it constantly.

Wooden scooter for commuting. The scooter was made of 10 mm plywood and 28 mm furniture board, the latter went to the support platform.

The front fork of the scooter is taken from a standard bicycle (20-inch wheel), the rear wheel has a smaller diameter (12 inches).

The scooter was assembled with your own hands, self-tapping screws and furniture corners were used as fasteners, except for the glue, all parts were glued with PVA glue.

Over the summer of 2012, more than 600 km were covered on a homemade scooter.

With proper manufacturing and subsequent treatment with varnish (preferably waterproof - for example, yacht varnish), a homemade scooter will serve you for many years!

More articles for DIYers.

Every boy's dream is to ride a scooter. However, modern girls are not averse to taking a ride either. But now a more desirable replacement has appeared for the regular scooter - a scooter with a motor. And not only a child, but also an adult can ride it like a breeze.

For the youngest children (4-7 years old) you can purchase inexpensive scooter "Hummingbird", which comes in blue and red colors.

Its maximum speed is small - 10 km/h, but for a child riding such a scooter is a real rally. You can drive on one charge 4 km. The foldable design will withstand a child weighing up to 40 kg. The scooter itself weighs only 8.2 kg, i.e. The child can easily lift it up to the floor on his own. Wide footrest – 580x130 mm, wheel size with tires in diameter – 137 mm, which indicates the reliability and safety of the vehicle. The wheels are on bearings and are made of durable plastic. Throttle stick for speed control, solid tires, rear drum brake, lead-acid maintenance-free battery that requires up to 8 hours to fully charge, motor 120 W– these are the main characteristics of the model. A dream, not a scooter!

Where to buy a Kolibri scooter and its cost?

The cost of this miracle toy and at the same time a personal vehicle only 69 dollars . You can buy a scooter at e-bike.com.ua .

A little expense and imagination will help you make a scooter from a regular cordless drill.

In the retail chain today there is a huge selection of electric scooters, but you can easily make an electric scooter from a battery drill, and you’ll also have to disassemble the grinder. Craftsmen who already ride scooters with a motor, who made them with their own hands, say that a motor that develops up to 550 rpm, quite enough for driving on city streets.

The battery is also suitable for a drill - 14.4 V

The frame can be made from ordinary profile steel pipe(wall thickness 2.5mm) - it will withstand weight 100 kg. Or use a frame from a regular scooter. At a bicycle store you need to purchase rubber grips, a handlebar mount, and a thrust bearing designed for a load of 300 kg. There are several options for transmitting rotation to the wheel: using a chain, two gears, a friction attachment, using a rigid transmission and a motor - wheels. But the last option is practically impossible to implement, because this important part must be ordered in China.

You immediately need to decide which wheel will rotate? To connect the generator, you will also need an overrunning clutch (it’s also easy to buy), bearings, and wheels. The battery will fit lithium polymer(11.1V 2.2Ah). With a little magic on all this, you can get a good means of transportation.

How much does it cost to make an electric scooter from a drill?

The cost of making an electric scooter with your own hands is approximately five thousand rubles, against the cost of the structure in the retail chain costing 14-140 thousand rubles.

A powerful battery... And an impressive price. Yes, there are economical options, but is it possible to spend even less? And if so, how to make an electric scooter with your own hands?

Where to start?

Decide on what you will base your iron horse on. There are three good, repeatedly tested options:

From a screwdriver. Drills and screwdrivers are convenient because the battery can be easily removed from them for recharging. In addition, most models have several speeds, which is also a lot;
From a hoverboard. Very good in terms of battery connection and control, but quite expensive;
From the radiator cooling engine. Perhaps the most difficult option from the point of view of implementation, but the motor is quite powerful and almost free (you can find a suitable motor at any auto repair shop).

If you do not have much experience with such tasks, we recommend making an electric scooter with your own hands using a screwdriver.

Broadcast

Have you chosen an engine? Now it is important to decide how you will transfer torque from it to the wheels. The following transfer options are available:

Chain;
Friction nozzle;
Two gears;
Hard transmission.

Again: if you don’t have much experience, use a chain. The option is controversial, because the chain can fly off, but this will be the easiest to implement.

Wheels

Which wheel will be the drive: rear or front? If you choose the rear one, it will be easier to install; if you choose the front one, the scooter will be better controlled. We advise you to still bother with connecting the front wheel, it’s worth it. The wheels themselves can be taken as ordinary ones, with plastic discs. Wheels from garden carts work well.

Frame

The frame is made from ordinary steel pipes. Profiled steel 2.5 millimeters thick will be enough for a self-made electric scooter to withstand a load of up to 100 kilograms.

IMPORTANT: If you are making an electric scooter not entirely from scratch, but on the basis of a regular - non-motorized - scooter, you will not have any issues with the frame and wheels. Just choose from durable and stable models: very elegant ones may not be ready for serious loads.

Battery

Do not use heavy lead batteries! You will most likely not be able to carefully remove them under the deck, and the battery will simply break the entire balance of your scooter. If you are doing it on the basis of a screwdriver, there are no questions - use the original battery - if not, look at those for electric helicopters, the same drills and similar equipment.

You will also need

Wires;
Power button or toggle switch;
Plastic box for battery;
Fasteners (usually bolts and nuts).

It is not necessary to use welding or similar technically complex fastening methods.

How to make an electric scooter with your own hands?

The best choice would be to watch a video on YouTube before starting work. Look specifically for a scooter assembly based on the engine you choose and with the gear you choose - there are videos for almost all existing options.

And, in any case, you will need some experience working with your hands. Ideal if you have already worked with electrical and metal. If you don’t have any experience, we strongly recommend finding an assembly partner or at least a consultant - a person who can look at your idea and project and give their comments on it.

If you do everything carefully, a DIY electric scooter will cost only 5-7 thousand rubles, which means you can save a lot. Good luck with the build!