Firing wood: open flame processing technology. Wood burning technology How to make burnt wood

Who among us does not dream of an eco-friendly home somewhere on the banks of a river, with chirping birds and fresh air? One thing worries - it does not differ in durability. Sooner or later, traces of decay will make themselves felt. Natural wood has recently been popular as a material for manufacturing and decor items. Most often, industrially manufactured samples are processed with antibacterial, anti-mold, and also fire-fighting compounds, which, alas, are not always distinguished by high environmental friendliness and safety. Is there any alternative? It turns out that everything was invented for us long ago - many centuries ago. The solution against aging and decay was prompted by nature itself: our ancestors noticed that burnt wood retains its natural qualities longer. How to properly process wood at home, as well as the nuances of using this unusual technology, we will consider in detail in our today's review.

It would seem that what could be easier - buy varnish, process the wood and live in peace. But in the process of use, any chemical compounds - imperceptibly, but, alas, constantly - can release a certain amount of compounds into the environment. Most often this occurs under the influence of temperatures, sunlight or. Not all finishing materials are equally well amenable to chemical treatment. However, wood is ideal for direct firing technology. How it works? During controlled heating, processes begin in the outer layer of the wood, which stimulate the narrowing of the fibers, and the outer "pores" of the wood are closed with resin and soot. Thanks to this, the top layer of wood becomes invulnerable to the negative effects of the environment, the ingress of bacteria, as well as sunlight. Plus, it really looks very pretty.

Among the many ways to protect wooden products from the effects of negative factors, firing is considered the most convenient way that is easy to use at home.

Advice! Most often, gas burners are used for firing, and firing is carried out with special extinguishing agents: a fire extinguisher and a bucket of sand. However, if you choose the right wood option, no excesses should arise.

In ancient times, no auxiliary tools were used. The necessary wood blanks were simply burned with torches, gradually turning the log on ropes or leather belts. Sometimes it was called roasting, sometimes languishing. The most commonly used were cedar, beech, maple, ash. After firing, the craftsmen removed the carbon deposits, washed the blanks and soaked them in tung oil. In the process of processing, it was important not to burn the tree, but to singe it. If the technology was followed correctly, then as a result the tree received a unique shade, and its service life increased to 80 years.

Interesting fact! Until now, on the island of Naosami (Japan), burnt wood is used as the main building material. It is processed in a special way, the nuances of which are kept in the strictest confidence. The technique is called Shou Sugi Ban, which means stewed cedar. Not only houses are built from processed wood, but it is also used for the manufacture of furniture and decorative elements.

Now let's talk in more detail about the options for heat treatment of wooden structures. The result (shade, firing depth, characteristics) depends on the type of processing and the type of workpiece. Three types of firing are used for wood processing:

• Option number 1. Surface firing. One of the most commonly used types of processing. It does not require much time, special training and costs. Firing is usually done at home using a gas torch or blowtorch. The maximum firing depth is approx. 5 mm.

• Option number 2. Complete firing. This type of wood processing is not available to everyone. The fact is that for such a firing it is necessary to ensure a sufficient temperature - about 400 ° C. It can be achieved only in special vacuum furnaces. It cannot be used on a large scale for processing building materials: the tree loses its volume by almost half. However, this type of wood processing is popular in the piece production of furniture and decorative items.

• Option number 3. Deep firing. This type of treatment is popular for the special aging of used wood. Usually this type of firing is used for decoration. The shades here depend on the exposure time - from graphite to coal black. Sometimes the tree treated in this way can be used for the construction of special and garden paths. In this case, the firing depth can be up to 20 mm.

Advantages and disadvantages of technology

Wood processing at home has a number of indisputable advantages:

• no need to use complex chemicals;
• the method, subject to the technology, is quite simple and can be implemented outside a special workshop;
• the material acquires important properties: fire resistance, wear resistance, the tree is not affected by microorganisms;
• the process can be carried out without the help of third parties.

Interesting fact! Under the influence of high temperatures in the wood, hemicellulose formations are destroyed, which, during combustion, form flammable pyrolysis gases. Accordingly, after heat treatment, the wood becomes resistant to fire.

Is it possible to carry out the firing procedure at home

As we mentioned above, wood processing at home is possible. However, you should adhere to certain rules and an exact algorithm for performing work. These steps depend on the type of wood and the type of firing. Step by step we will deal with all the features and nuances of the preparatory work.

How to choose the type of wood for firing

Initially, back in the old days, cedar was mainly used for roasting. Over time, it was noticed that burnt beech wood and hornbeam have a similar texture and quality. The layers of wood of these two species have a high density, so mainly only the top layer burns here. But the poplar or maple familiar to us, after processing, get an interesting woody structure of lines elongated along the line. Conifers are distinguished by a wide variety of patterns. After decorative processing of wood, an unusual, unique structure appears. But the birch processed by fire after firing acquires a low heat capacity and practically does not burn the skin, which will be an additional bonus for decorating the walls of the shower room or in this style.

Material preparation stages

If from the outside everything at first glance seems very simple - cut down a tree, walked with a blowtorch and that's it - then we are in a hurry to upset. First of all, you need to carefully select the material. The tree itself must be prepared for processing: remove branches, ideally, the workpieces should be dry and clean. If the wood is too wet, the moisture can deform the surface when it evaporates, creating unnecessary chips and cracks. Another important requirement is that if you are using old wood that was previously used, then varnish is also needed: all untreated chemicals will simply melt and leave an unnecessary mark, which will directly affect the quality of the finishing material.

Advice! It is best to sand the wood before processing. This will ensure uniform coloring of the finished product after firing and grinding.

Blowing wood with a blowtorch

It is important to remember that wood processing should be carried out using the most heated tool. By analogy with a building hair dryer (which can also be used for this procedure), a blowtorch in the literal sense of the word should light up and warm up the nozzle. For proper firing, the fire must be directed strictly perpendicular to the surface to be treated. The exposure time here depends on the thickness of the workpiece itself and the goals that you are pursuing. The most important thing is to carry out the manipulations slowly and evenly, processing the entire surface, paying attention to the change in the structure of the material.

The surface should evenly acquire an even, contrasting pattern. Then the primary grinding of the product is carried out, as well as treatment with varnish or drying oil.

Advice! If you don't heat the blowtorch to the highest possible temperature, you will end up with a layer of soot instead of the aged wood effect.

For convenience, a wooden board is placed on stools in several rows. Moreover, it is better to lay out the boards in the same order in which their installation (if it is a facade) or fastening will be carried out. Processing is carried out sequentially for each.

Burning wood with a gas burner

Unlike a blowtorch, treatment with a gas torch has a number of nuances. It is most often used for surface treatment of wood. This is due to the fact that the flame of a gas burner penetrates deeper into the structure of the wood: with an increase in the exposure time, it will not be possible to achieve uniformity.

The most important thing is to strictly control your own movements so as not to overexpose the flame in one area to the detriment of another.

The technology requires mandatory wetting of wood after firing. Moreover, the period of time between firing and spraying from a spray gun should be the same. After cooling, the top layer is cleaned, the soot is removed either with a stiff brush or with a special brass wire.

Does burnt wood need additional protection?

Burnt wood itself has a number of indisputable advantages, but it also needs protection. Most often, after the first stage of cleaning, the product is treated with oil. Usually a protective varnish is then applied. And if the coating will be used to decorate the facade, use synthetic wax dissolved in turpentine. This will allow the wax to acquire additional bonding and protective properties.

Where is treated wood used?

Burnt wood has been very much appreciated by designers lately. You can buy interesting interior items made of burnt wood in art workshops or studios of modern designers.

The effect of using burnt wood in the interior

Wood is widely used to create furniture. It doesn't matter whether it is a flat board or untreated wood: in any case, you will receive a unique piece of furniture, created with love., As well as wines, household utensils.

Sometimes even entire zones are trimmed with such panels. For example, a kitchen or a bedroom.

The nuances of using burnt wood in the design of facades

Burnt wood is used quite often. It gives the building a unique chic. If you think this is aging the room, you are wrong! Facade designs can be quite avant-garde.

The possibilities of using the burnt board are wide. Treated wood shows very good "driving characteristics", it is widely used both for facade decoration of buildings and for interior decoration. The process itself, as we found out, is not so complicated, and the result is really impressive.

If you have questions, or want to express your opinion on the topic of the article, leave your comments in the field below.

The most suitable for burning are soft coniferous species of wood with a well-pronounced pattern of annual rings - pine, spruce. Before firing, a small product is dipped into a solution of copper sulfate, which is absorbed into the soft parts of the annual layers. Burning burns a thin layer of wood impregnated with copper sulfate, mostly soft layers. Solid ones are almost not destroyed. The result is an expressive drawing with light lines of hard layers on a dark background.

If the product is not impregnated with a special solution, then the wood burns more evenly. The difference in the color of the surface of the product is obtained only due to the different density of the soft and hard parts of the annual layers. The burnt layer of wood is removed with a rag. If you need to achieve a clearer pattern, you should process the product with fine sandpaper.

For firing, blowtorches can be used, which give a uniform flame, the magnitude of which can be adjusted. The high temperature, 600-800 ° C, allows you to quickly process large surfaces. If the products are small, another method is used - firing in hot sand.

Fine clean sand is poured into a metal container and heated to a temperature not exceeding 200 ° C. Products prepared for firing are placed in hot sand and kept there until they darken. If the tone of individual parts should lighten gradually, then these parts are immersed in the sand vertically: the lower layers of sand are heated more than the upper ones, so the lower part of the piece will be darker than the upper one. Thus, a tone is obtained that goes from light yellow to dark brown. It should be borne in mind that when sanding, the veneer surface will brighten somewhat.

Firing can begin when the blowtorch nozzle is completely red and the fire is evenly purple. Do not burn the surface with yellow fire, the board may become covered with soot. The fire must be directed perpendicular to the board and so that the board touches the end of the torch, that is, the hottest part of it. When working, the fire moves slowly along the board at a uniform speed, which depends on the temperature of the flame and how dry the wood is. It is necessary to ensure that the wood pattern is uniform and contrasting. To facilitate the work, the boards are placed on trestles or stools.

You can put 4-5 boards close to each other on the trestle at a time. They should be nailed to the wall in the same order in which they were lying on the trestle during firing.
Burning boards nailed to the wall is strictly prohibited by fire safety rules A contrasting pattern is obtained when firing only coniferous wood. After the discs are nailed to the wall, the fired surface must be covered with natural linseed oil, nitro varnish, glyphthalic varnish or urea-formaldehyde varnish.

It should be borne in mind that the contrast of the pattern obtained by treating the surface of the wood with a blowtorch quickly weakens under the influence of direct sunlight. For example, a drawing on a wall of the exterior cladding of a house located on the sunny side loses contrast after a couple of months. Therefore, you should not burn the boards of the external wall cladding, which are exposed to the direct rays of the sun.

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Where is burnt wood used?

Records of the use of fired wood can be found in the history of construction and finishing works on all continents, starting from the 18th century.

Burnt wood has been and is used for interior and exterior decoration of houses - in the form of multi-profile boards, panels, beams.

Furniture, interior items, decorative items were made from it.

Burnt wood has its place in landscape design.

How to get burnt wood?

Nowadays, several technologies are known, differing in the depth of material processing and the ultimate goals.

Full firing, or burning, is carried out in a vacuum oven, with wood heating up to 400 ° C. Strictly speaking, in this case, the material ceases to be wood, turning into a polymer-carbon plastic.

Do-it-yourself deep firing of wood

Furniture is made from such a "tree", and each product is unique: the pattern and the splits obtained during processing never repeat.

Deep firing is done in an open oven. The tree is in it for the required amount of time, after which it is doused with water.

In this case, the top layer of the material burns out by 1-2 cm. This technology is good for old sawn timber, for "used" beams and boards. With deep firing, the wood is "renewed": the damaged and cracked top layer is removed. The surface of the material acquires an interesting appearance: it can shimmer like graphite, or imitate the black color of noble wood species.

Surface firing of wood is very popular. You can do it yourself, using a blowtorch or a conventional torch.

The burned-out layer in this case is up to 0.5 mm, the resulting surface is sanded. This surface is very beautiful: brownish-brownish, with a golden sheen, with a pronounced texture. Such wood is used, as a rule, for interior decoration.

How does firing change the properties of wood?

One of the significant disadvantages of wood as a building material - its high hygroscopicity - is explained by its porosity.

In addition, the structure of wood is very uneven: during the life of a tree, various sugars and resins are formed in it, as well as cellulose polymers.

The pores and the aforementioned organic matter are an excellent environment for the appearance and reproduction of mold and microorganisms, as well as pests such as woodworm beetles.

And it is precisely the presence of pores and organics that explains the high flammability of wood.

Fired wood is no longer so afraid of unfavorable external influences: during the firing process, its internal pores are partially clogged and unstable cellulose polymers are mostly removed.

In addition, with this treatment, microorganisms living in the thickness of the tree die, and the sintered outer layer does not allow the appearance of new "tenants".

What are the advantages of charred wood?

We said above about two significant advantages of fired wood - resistance to the appearance of fungi, microorganisms and insects, as well as an increase in the fire resistance of the material.

This results in higher strength and durability of fired wood compared to conventional wood.

Moreover, the burnt wood will remain absolutely environmentally friendly - all of the above advantages are obtained without the use of chemical processing of the material.

Another advantage is the lower thermal conductivity of the fired wood. The owners of houses with a ventilated facade made of this material enjoy a stable comfortable temperature in their rooms at any time of the year.

Designers and consumers are attracted by the aesthetic appearance of the resulting material - the maximum manifested wood texture, in each case unique. By the way, burnt wood can have different colors, and not just black or brown-brown: during finishing, oils of different colors can be used.

Burnt wood is appreciated by those whose style is individuality and creativity.
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Weak link

Game for extracurricular activities in chemistry grade 10

Target. With the help of a competitive game, to consolidate the knowledge of students in chemistry and ecology, to continue the formation of their interest in the subject.

Preparing for the game. Eight participants of the game are selected (at will) from the parallel 10th grades.

The teacher himself can be the leader, but it is better to choose a student from the 11th grade. Three assistants are selected from the 11th grade. The teacher, together with the 11th grade students, prepares questions for the game in advance. Fans are definitely invited - players support groups.

Equipment:

Six sheets of blank paper and one felt-tip pen for each player;

Badges with the names of the players;

A poster with the title of the game;

Hourglass for 5, 2 and 1 min;

Transparent container for tokens - bank;

Waybills.

Rules of the game

The game is played in rounds: six current and one final.

During the round, the leader of the game asks the players questions in turn. The participant of the game, answering the question, must still have time to say the word "bank", since the goal of the game is to collect as many tokens as possible and reach the final. For the correct answer, the player receives a token.

If a player forgets to say the word "bank" and gives an incorrect answer, then all tokens drawn in front of him "burn out".

Each round has a limited time. After each round, the participants in the game choose the "weak link": they write on sheets of paper the names of the players who, in their opinion, should leave the game. The player whose name was repeated more often during the voting is eliminated. The presenter can invite any player to justify his choice, and give the floor to the eliminated player so that he expresses his opinion about the game and its players.

Two assistants follow the players' answers and record them in the waybill (Appendix).

After the end of the round and the elimination of one of the players, they report who was actually the "weak link". The third assistant monitors the bank, i.e. records the number of tokens earned by game participants.

In the final round, two participants remain.

Firing wood with a hairdryer, burner, blowtorch: the advantages of fired wood

The moderator asks the players three questions in turn. If the players answer all the questions correctly, then the game continues until the first wrong answer.

The winner is the one who was the last to answer the question correctly.

PLAN OF THE GAME

Round I - 10 minutes

Round II - 6 minutes

III round - 4 minutes

IV round - 2 min.

V round - 2 min.

VI round - 1 min.

Final round - 1 minute to answer each question.

Summing up the results of the game, awarding the winner.

Questions for the rounds

The chemical name for table salt. (Sodium chloride.)

2. The scientist who discovered the law of conservation of mass of substances. (M.V. Lomonosov.)

3. Substances consisting of two elements, one of which is oxygen. (Oxides.)

4. Gas forming the protective shell of the Earth. (Ozone.)

5. Coloring of phenolphthalein in alkalis.

(Raspberry.)

6. The name of the negatively charged ion. (Anion.)

7. When acetic acid interacts with soda, gas is released ... (Carbonic.)

"Dry ice" is ... (Solid carbon monoxide (IV).)

9. A substance called vitriol oil. (Concentrated sulfuric acid.)

10. The year of the discovery of the periodic law by D.I. Mendeleev. (1869.)

11. Atoms with the same charge of the atomic nucleus, but with different atomic masses. (Isotopes.)

12. The lightest gas on Earth. (Hydrogen.)

Neon, argon, xenon belong to the family ... (Inert elements.)

14. s-Electrons form clouds shaped like ... (Spheres, balls.)

15. Organic compounds containing only carbon and hydrogen. (Hydrocarbons.)

16. The name of the reaction between an acid and a base.

(Neutralization reaction.)

17. Type of diamond crystal lattice. (Atomic.)

18. The most active non-metal. (Fluorine.)

19. Solutions and melts that conduct electric current. (Electrolytes.)

20. The scientist who laid the foundations of theoretical organic chemistry. (A.M. Butlerov.)

21. What kind of milk do they not drink? (Limestone.)

22. The process of destruction of metals under the influence of the environment.

(Corrosion.)

23. Allotropic modification of oxygen. (Ozone.)

24. Substances that a person needs in small quantities and are involved in the metabolism. (Vitamins.)

25. The name of the positively charged ion. (Cation.)

26. Liquid metal under normal conditions.

(Mercury.)

27. Biologically active substances that regulate the work of organs and tissues of humans and animals. (Hormones.)

28. Substances that accelerate a chemical reaction. (Catalysts.)

29. Marsh gas. (Methane.)

Solid water. (Ice.)

31. Inventor of the gas mask. (ND Zelinsky.)

32. The lightest metal. (Lithium.)

Chemically indivisible particle. (Atom.)

34. A hormone that regulates blood sugar. (Insulin.)

35. Cabbage with the highest iodine content. (Marine.)

36. Heaviest metal. (Osmium.)

37. A unit of the amount of a substance. (Mole.)

38. Biological catalysts. (Enzymes.)

39. Hydrogen oxide. (Water.)

40. Reaction in which heat is absorbed. (Endothermic.)

41. Halogen, a compound of which has a calming effect on the nervous system.

(Bromine.)

42. Water soluble bases. (Alkalis.)

43. Complex substances, during the dissociation of which hydrogen ions are formed. (Acids.)

44. "Bile of the god Vulcan" is an expression about what element? (About sulfur.)

45. The property of an atom to pull electrons from another atom. (Electronegativity.)

46. ​​What element is called the element of life and thought?

(Phosphorus.)

47. What are the names of the substances that are used for plant nutrition? (Fertilizers.)

48. What gas is called carbon monoxide? (Carbon monoxide (II).)

49. What element is the basis of the entire mineral world of our planet? (Silicon.)

50. Icicles grow in karst caves.

What are the names of the icicles growing up? (Stalagmites.)

51. Which element deficiency leads to dental caries? (Fluorine.)

52. What is the name of the science that studies the relationship of the organism with the environment? (Ecology.)

What is the name of the chemical enterprise in Kazan, which produces synthetic detergents? (JSC "Nefis Cosmetics".)

54. Physiological solution is injected into the human body with a large loss of blood.

What is the main substance of this solution? (Sodium chloride.)

55. Rector of Kazan University in 1860 and 1863 (A.M. Butlerov.)

56. What substance is called "volatile alkali"? (Ammonia.)

57. What scientist created the Kazan school of chemists? (N.N. Zinin.)

What is causing the increase in carbon dioxide in the atmosphere? (The greenhouse effect.)

59. Where does oxygen come from in nature? (Formed during photosynthesis.)

60. What does a diver breathe? (Oxygen-helium mixture.)

61. The main constituent of air. (Nitrogen.)

62. What organisms are indicators of environmental quality? (Lichens.)

(Iodized.)

64. What drug can be used to bring the patient out of unconsciousness? (With ammonia.)

65. If fertilizers are used incorrectly, what harmful substances accumulate in vegetables? (Nitrates.)

66. What substance did the alchemists call "fire water" or "water of life"? (Ethanol.)

67. What substance was worth its weight in gold in the old days?

(Salt.)

68. What is the role of baking soda when it is drunk with heartburn? (Neutralizes the hydrochloric acid in the stomach.)

69. What gas is called "laughing"? (Nitric oxide (I), or nitrous oxide.)

70. What mineral did scientists call "deceiver"? (Apatite is translated from Greek.)

71. Decomposition of salt with water. (Hydrolysis.)

72. What substances are formed during photosynthesis?

(Oxygen and starch.)

73. The combination of substances with water. (Hydration.)

74. Substance (second in hardness after diamond) used as an abrasive material. (Corundum.)

75. Common name for sucrose. (Sugar.)

76. Brass is an alloy of copper with ... (With zinc.)

77. The first president of the Russian Chemical Society.

(N.N. Zinin.)

78. The first Russian natural scientist of world importance. (M.V. Lomonosov.)

79. What is biogas? (Combustible gas - composed of methane and carbon dioxide.)

80. How is metallic sodium stored?

(In kerosene.)

81. What should be done in case of acid burns to the skin? (Rinse it with water, then with 3% baking soda solution.)

82. Which element is named after a part of the world? (Europium.)

83. What kind of water is turbid from breathing?

(Limestone.)

84. How to peel an egg without breaking the shell? (Dip in hydrochloric acid.)

85. What Russian chemist organized in Russia in 1748 the Chemical Laboratory of the St. Petersburg Academy of Sciences? (M.V. Lomonosov.)

What chemical element contains the names of two mammals in its name? (Arsenic.)

87. How can a tree be charred without fire? (Sulfuric acid.)

88. What crystal lattice does table salt have? (Ionic.)

89. What Russian chemist synthesized aniline? (N.N. Zinin.)

90. What inorganic substance is called the "bread" of the chemical industry?

(Sulfuric acid.)

91. Who stood at the origins of the domestic science of metals? (M.V. Lomonosov.)

92. The word "bromine" in translation from Greek means ... (Stench.)

The word "valency" in translation from the Latin language means ... (Effective.)

94. Oxygen was discovered by a Swedish chemist ... (K.V. Scheele.)

95. The word "chlorine" in translation from Greek means ... (Green.)

Salmon is ... (Ammonium chloride.)

97. An elementary particle that has no charge. (Neutron.)

98. The word "iodine" in translation from Greek means ... (Violet.)

99. Substances having the same composition and molecular weight, but different molecular structure and properties. (Isomers.)

100. How many electrons are in the outer layer of atoms of chemical elements of the III group of the main subgroup of the DI Mendeleev table? (3.)

Questions for the final round

Danish physicist who created the first quantum theory of the structure of the hydrogen atom. (N. Bor.)

2. The scientist who created the planetary model of the atom. (E. Rutherford.)

3. A colorless gas with a pungent odor used in the production of nitric acid and fertilizers. (Ammonia.)

4. Pale yellow gas, interacts with all elements, up to some inert gases. (Fluorine.)

French chemist, founder of the theory of the shift in chemical equilibrium. (A.L. Le Chatelier.)

6. Which scientist was a student and successor of N.N. Zinin at the Department of Chemistry at Kazan University? (A.M. Butlerov.)

7. Who owns the statement: “Chemistry spreads its hands wide in human affairs. Wherever we look, wherever we look, everywhere the successes of her diligence turn before our eyes ”?

(M.V. Lomonosov.)

8. Who owns the statement: "The future does not threaten the periodic law with destruction, but only superstructures and development are promised to be"?

(D.I. Mendeleev.)

9. What is the name of the gas with the smell of rotten eggs? (Hydrogen sulfide.)

10. What is the formula for hydrofluoric acid? ( HF .)

11. What does the word "freon" mean in translation from the Latin language? (Cold.)

12. What does the word "ruby" mean in translation from the Latin language? (Red.)

APPENDIX

Waybill

Final round

R.M.Charushnikova,
chemistry teacher, gymnasium number 152
(G.

Home / Articles / Wood burning technology

Wood burning technology

The technology of burning wood Yakisugi (Shou Sugi Ban) came to us from Japan and literally translates as “languishing cedar”. The emergence of technology is usually dated to the 18th century, when the Japanese cypress Sugi, which came close to rural settlements and posed a threat of fires, was massively burned. Subsequently, the Japanese appreciated both the appearance of the fired wood and its performance.

The fact is that processing a wood surface with fire can significantly increase the service life of wood - sometimes up to 80 years, protecting it from fire and the harmful effects of various natural factors. Therefore, burnt wood is widely used in construction, in particular for facade cladding.

In fact, the technology of processing wood with fire is much more ancient and has long been used by almost all nationalities.

Grinding and roasting were the most common methods of woodworking. And if in the first case the wood was impregnated with hot resin, then in the second, under the influence of high temperatures, the fiber channels in the outer layer of the wood narrow and independently clog up with resins and other combustion products, which ultimately is a protective mechanism that protects the wood and increases its service life.

In the old days, logs and boards were simply burned on a fire, now an ordinary burner is used for this, also in rare cases - a blowtorch.

Only conifers are suitable for the procedure, characterized by high density, hardness and wear resistance: pine, cedar, juniper. Such wood is difficult to split and has a high oiliness.

The essence of wood burning technology

What is the wood firing technology:

• For a more effective result, the boards are folded into a triangular shape, forming a box.
• The firing procedure is very fast and lasts an average of 7-10 minutes.
• Then the boards must be extinguished if a fire has occurred, and cleaned of carbon deposits using special metal brushes.
• Finally, the boards must be rinsed with running water.
• After all these procedures, an insignificant 5 mm layer of carbon remains on the burnt board, which performs a protective function.

To enhance the performance properties of wood and provide even greater protection, a special oil composition is sometimes applied to the boards, which also gives the wood texture a pleasant glossy shine.

Benefits of charred wood

Wood processed using the Japanese firing technology is widely used not only for cladding facades, but also in the construction of terraces and fences.

The effectiveness of this technology is evidenced by the widespread use of burnt wood in Japan and other countries. In addition, wood burning has a number of other positive aspects:

• Fire treatment provides reliable protection of wood from fires;
• Also, burnt wood is reliably protected from decay, fungi and insects;
• Wood treated in this way has an unusual attractive appearance, and over time the appearance and color of the material does not change;
• Very long service life - up to 80 years, and subsequently no need to process the wood;
• The technology is very simple and can be done independently.

  How to burn wood with a blowtorch?

  In addition, the wood burning technology has another extremely important advantage - it is an excellent alternative to chemical methods of protection. Of course, at the present time on the market there is a huge amount of all kinds of protective "chemistry": fire retardants, antiseptics and impregnations.

  But such mechanical processing is quite laborious and time-consuming. While firing is done once and for all, it takes very little time and is in no way inferior to chemical processing in terms of efficiency.

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Surprisingly deep grays, nothing like gray wood, uneven tanning are "side effects" of Japanese wood preservation technology known as "cradle cradle".

Actually, wood baking is not only Japanese. Even in Russia there is a thin coating, but it is not quite the same. Lullaby technology is significantly different from simple flame exposure. For example, a toasted tree in Japanese can be soaked in oil or covered in other decorative ingredients every 3-4 years.

Indeed, shooting is about not only aesthetics, but also wood preservation.

The Japanese have always been known for their respect for nature and for themselves. Traditionally, various chemicals are avoided whenever possible. And how to protect the wood if you do not use antiseptics and fire retardants? It turned out that shooting is very well suited for this task. Ironically, roasted wood is much more difficult to ignite than it is to burn.

For shooting, the Japanese use mainly resin rich in conifers.

The most valuable cedar. First, the finished wooden parts are burned with a gas burner for 7-10 minutes. After this procedure, the tree is placed in water, where it is thoroughly washed and coated with wire brushes. Almost all carbon surfaces are removed, leaving only a slight layer up to 5 mm thick. This layer protects against moisture, bacteria, fungi, tree worms and even fire.

Paradoxically, after baking, it burns easily.

Burned and washed wood parts can be used immediately or after pre-oiling, making the wood even stronger and more durable.

Oils can be used in many different ways. A number of manufacturers, notably Pinotex, OSMO, Tikkuril and others, can be found in the area.

In Japan, baked wood is literally at every turn. This shows once again that this type of treatment is effective and practical. In its pure form, the plowed plate becomes gray.

Unfortunately, this color can be achieved with the help of colored spots. The color of "floor cedar" depends on the duration of fire resistance - from gray to dark brown, almost black. In Japan, this forest is also known as Shou Sugi Ban.

It is used on the facades of houses, as well as in interior decoration and even furniture.

Burnt wood for decoration: advantages and do-it-yourself production

By the way, the Delta Millworks plant specializes in the production of charred wood furniture.

One of the advantages of baked wood is its durability. It can remain unchanged for up to 80 years, but does not require serious care and regular treatment with biological protection.

baking wood with a blowtorch

Good afternoon dear friends!

I am often asked a question that sounds something like this: “I seem to be doing everything right, but the work is still not of the same quality as I would like. What am I doing wrong?"

This post is dedicated to the mistakes that craftswomen make when firing and brushing wood. Of course, you can't write just one article, but I'll try to at least indicate the directions:

So, here are these 7 mistakes when firing and brushing wood ...

Fear of a gas burner, as something terrible and flammable in women's hands

It may sound a little ridiculous, but in reality many girls are afraid to work with a gas burner. Someone is afraid that it may explode in their hands, someone will get burned.

A gas burner is used for cooking and heating food - an irreplaceable thing in a hike and in everyday life.

In the technique, wood burning and brushing is the main working tool. The burner is very easy to use and is safe with the amount of gas in the bottle! This is the case when a "man's toy" can easily be a "woman's")) But at the same time remember about fire safety techniques !!!

2. Firing over a gas stove or other similar open fire

The pressure and supply of fire from a gas burner is much stronger and more powerful than fire from a gas stove, which makes it possible to burn out precisely soft wood fibers evenly and in the right places.

We will get the opposite result by firing the workpiece over an open fire, while there is a danger of getting burned. In this case, the firing will be uneven, stained, which will negatively affect the final result.

This mistake is partly a consequence of the first mistake, and in some cases it is simply a saving on buying a burner.

Blank from solid wood, unsuitable and unsuitable for this technique

This is a really big problem, and the ability to quickly assess the quality of a workpiece will only come with experience. I can only say one thing - soft wood species - pine, larch and spruce - are suitable for the technique of firing and brushing wood.

Excessive firing during further toning in very light shades

With excessive firing, it will be quite difficult to tint the product in light shades and at the same time highlight the structure of the wood.

In this case, brushing should be done much deeper, reaching the light and hard fibers.

5. Incorrectly selected abrasive metal brush

A too hard brush with wide teeth can damage the product, impairing the aesthetics.

6. Brushing wood in the wrong grain direction

The brushing process is carried out exclusively along the grain line, even if the structure of the tree is curvy or rounded.

Movement with an abrasive brush across the fiber line will not structure the product, but will simply ruin and scratch it. Unfortunately, this error cannot be corrected.

7. Wrong selection of shades for multicolor tinting

Competently selected shades of paints that are “friendly” with each other and will not make you “dirty” during toning - this is a successful result and, as a result, beautiful and harmonious work

I repeat that there are much more nuances.

But if you do work on these mistakes, your products are guaranteed to get better.

Wooden buildings without additional protection cannot boast of significant durability. Rotting traces can appear on them quite quickly, so you have to apply various technologies against the development of mold and microbes. Many of them are not environmentally friendly, and such wood is used only outdoors. Burning wood is an absolutely safe method that was invented many years ago. It allows you to preserve the natural qualities of the material for a long time and give it an unusual look.

Wood burning technology: historical background

Burnt wood has long been popular in a number of countries, while in others it is just beginning to come into vogue. The birthplace of the technique is Japan, where the so-called languishing of cedar was used: they burned wood on fires, then removed the carbon deposits, washed and applied tung oil. This made it possible to give the material a shine, a noble silver-black shade and increase the service life up to 80 years. The history of the technology goes back to the beginning of the 15th century, when the unique properties of the resulting wood were accidentally noted during the burning of cedar plantations for fire-fighting purposes.

On the island of Naosami in Japan, burnt wood is still widely used for the construction of various objects, and is also widely used for interior decoration. The technique has long been known in Europe and America, where it was practiced along with resinizing - impregnating lumber with hot resin. If earlier wood blanks were burned with an open flame using torches, now special vacuum furnaces are used for this purpose.

As the subcrustal layers grow, new pores form in the wood. This causes the death of fibrous cells and leads to an increase in the porosity of the structure. The result is an invariable property of any wood - hygroscopicity, or the ability to absorb and release water when the ambient humidity changes.

The wood has an uneven texture due to the presence of cellulosic polymers, resins, sugars and other organic components in the composition. Also, the material has a high flammability, a tendency to multiply by fungi and other microorganisms that constantly live inside and begin to actively multiply at the slightest dampness.

To reduce all the listed disadvantages of wood, while leaving it environmentally friendly, the technology of roasting using autoclave heating (thermolysis) or creosote boiling is capable.

In the process of carrying out the work, the material is heated up to + 300 ... + 400 degrees, which makes it possible to destroy unstable hemicellulose formations. Since the latter are the cause of the appearance of flammable pyrolysis gases, their removal immediately reduces the flammability of the tree.

Home firing of wood has a less pronounced effect and removes less unstable compounds. However, this is sufficient to improve the performance properties of the material. Also, firing leads to partial clogging of the pores with resin and soot, narrowing of the channels in the outer layer of wood, so bacteria, sunlight, moisture will practically not penetrate inside. Loose wood, after firing, also acquires fire-fighting properties, becomes immune to decay, and is less destroyed by precipitation and wind.

Firing types

The quality and appearance of fired wood may vary depending on the specific technology that has been applied. By the depth of impact, the following types of firing are distinguished:

1. Full. It is firing lumber at a temperature of about +400 degrees in a vacuum oven. Such wood is not very much in demand, because its volume is reduced by 2 times, and initially high strength characteristics decrease over time. Usually, wood after complete firing is used for the manufacture of expensive furniture, decorative items and other piece goods.
2. Deep. A popular type of heat treatment of wood. It can be used in relation to new and used material, allows you to artificially age the boards, beautifully arrange the timber. During firing in open furnaces, the entire thickness of the lumber is evenly heated, and the surface becomes dark (from graphite to coal). The permissible depth of wood burning is 20 mm.
3. Surface. Most often used at home, it implies a firing depth of the material up to 5 mm. The method is easily carried out with a gas torch or a conventional blowtorch.

Advantages and disadvantages of firing sawn timber

The main advantage of the technique is that it does not require the application of impregnations, antiseptics, which are sometimes not environmentally friendly and may even contain toxic components. Other benefits of firing wood:

• the ability to do it yourself;
• no need for special skills, expensive tools;
• protection of the material from wind, moisture, mold, microbes, insects, ultraviolet radiation;
• profitability;
• imparting fire safety (re-ignition is almost impossible);
• reliable prevention of rotting;
• ensuring wear resistance, increasing service life.

The disadvantages include only the laboriousness of the process, which is carried out without the presence of industrial equipment, because each board will have to be manually burned, then cleaned and processed. Nevertheless, the unique texture, original look and unique technical characteristics of the burnt wood neutralize all possible disadvantages and increase the popularity of the technology.

Firing at home - is it possible?

To burn the wood yourself, you need to strictly adhere to the advice of specialists and the algorithm for performing the work. Since there are no vacuum ovens at home, more affordable devices need to be prepared in advance. As a source of flame for firing, you can use:

• gas burner;
• blowtorch;
• construction hairdryer;
• a gas cylinder with a nozzle.

You will also need tools to clean the wood. If you plan to work with small blocks, planks, you can take a metal brush. For large lumber, it is better to prepare a grinder, grinder, drill with an appropriate attachment. To make it convenient to sweep the remains of burning, you need to buy a flutes (a brush with a soft bristle).

Firing is carried out in the open air, away from objects that can catch fire, especially from paper, rags, textiles, cardboard, plywood. Be sure to carry away any solutions, compounds and other chemicals.

In order to comply with safety precautions, they work in gloves, goggles, and keep a fire extinguisher nearby. It is advisable to work on a metal or stone surface that is not afraid of heat.

The choice of wood species for firing and material requirements

Hardwood (cherry, alder, etc.) must not be burned. In some cases, beech and hornbeam are fired, since they have sufficient density and are able to withstand heat. Work is more often carried out with conifers. Cedar is best suited for this purpose; spruce, pine, larch can also be used.

Conifers are distinguished by a variety of patterns, and after firing they acquire a unique structure. The more knots, complex bends there were on the wood, the more decorative the result will be. It is important that the wood is damp, but contains no more than 15% moisture. You can also burn finished wood products, coniferous veneer.

Material preparation for firing

Fresh wood does not have to be thoroughly prepared for processing, because the flame will remove all irregularities, acting on the principle of grinding. It is only necessary to cut down large protrusions, knots, and also remove the resin - if its drips catch fire during operation, the whole effect will be ruined. Too wet wood will have to be dried, otherwise moisture will deform it during evaporation, chips and cracks will appear.

Old wood is prepared more carefully. It is necessary to remove the remnants of paint, varnish from it, to carry out sanding so that stains do not form during firing and a fire does not occur. If the wood has been previously impregnated with stain, it can be burned according to the general rules. Lumber covered with linseed oil cannot be fired.

Blowing wood with a blowtorch

For this option of work, you will need a blowtorch that was previously heated to the maximum. If the heating is insufficient, a thick layer of soot will appear on the surface. The fire is directed strictly perpendicular to the position of the boards, moving the lamp slowly, evenly, paying attention to the change in the color and structure of the material. The exposure time is chosen independently: it depends on the desired effect and the thickness of the workpiece.

After the completion of the firing, the primary grinding of the product is carried out. To do this, the boards are placed in turn on a stool or other convenient support, carefully processed with a grinder, then the dirt is brushed off with a brush. At the end of the work, soaking with varnish, drying oil is done.

Burning wood with a gas burner

For a craftsman, working with a torch is considered more convenient and easy than with a blowtorch. The effect will be more attractive as the burner flame penetrates deeper into the wood structure. But during the firing process, it is important to ensure that the fire is not too close to the lumber, otherwise burnt spots will remain on them. Strong yellow firing flames are not permitted. It should be calm, oblong and bluish.

Start at the top of the board. The torch is carried out over the product like painting with a brush: smoothly, evenly. Repeat the procedure 2-3 times, then spray the material with water from a spray bottle. As it cools, the wood is treated to remove the loose burnt layer. Carry out a grinder only along the fibers, so as not to damage them. At the same time, a flute is used to sweep away carbon deposits, especially carefully removing deep-seated particles.

The quality of work is checked by wiping the wood with a napkin. If you want to give the material an antique look, then brushing is carried out. Also, for artificial aging of wood, it is possible to apply special pigments or special finishing coatings.

Does burnt wood need additional protection?

Charred wood has many benefits, and one of them is increased durability. Therefore, the material can be left in its original form after removing carbon deposits. Nevertheless, experienced craftsmen always carry out additional processing of wood, because after it the level of security will be even higher.

Usually, after firing, the product or lumber is treated with oil, which helps to improve the decorative and operational properties of the tree. After that, a transparent nitrocellulose varnish with protective properties or a mixture of varnish with artificial wax is most often applied. A solution of synthetic wax in turpentine is used for processing facade timber.

Choosing wood oil

Linseed, hemp or tung oil is the ideal coating option for burnt lining or other wood for interior decoration. The liquid is applied with a brush or spray gun (depending on the scale of work). You can use tinted synthetic oils, which give the wood a more noble look, imitating valuable species. An excellent result is obtained by a mixture of colorless wax with oil, which helps to emphasize the structure of the tree and protect it from external damage.

Application of burnt lumber

Finished fired lumber and products from it are highly valued by builders and designers. Doors, windows, gazebos and terraces, benches and tables, garden furniture and technical buildings are made of such wood. After firing, the wood is perfect for building fences, other fences, decorating floors and balconies, and decorating houses.

Flame-treated wood is great for many interior styles, especially country style. After special varnishing or staining, it can be used in retro, vintage, provence and other styles that involve the use of artificially aged furniture and decor items. Most often, in the interiors of apartments and residential buildings, you can see the following products made of burnt wood:

• boxes;
• panel;
• baguettes;
• chairs and tables;
• dressers;
• lockers.

In addition, the full decoration of the walls with burnt wood or the design of beams and ceilings looks beautiful in the design of the premises. The unique type of material will provide a luxurious look for the entire home.

Creating facades from fired planks

When creating facades of brick or wooden houses, such wood is used very often. After firing, the material becomes stronger and more durable, therefore, with additional varnishing or oil impregnation, it will serve without complaints for many years. Aesthetics, originality and environmental friendliness are the main qualities of fired wood, making it one of the most popular materials in construction.

Do. One of the important positive properties of wood is the mass of options for finishing its surface. Each method gives its own unique effect, and it can be matched to any image and style.

This material is durable: furniture made of natural wood, with proper care, serves for many years - tens, or even hundreds. And wood does not lose its beauty over time - on the contrary, like cognac, it can become even more interesting.

The charm of a time-worn wooden surface is so strong that there is a whole direction in the production of furniture - artificial aging. Previous publications on this topic (s) have discussed how you can age furniture with varnishes and paints. In this article, we'll look at how to mechanically give wood surfaces a more venerable look.

Brushing

The light and wider section of the ring is the growth in the first half of the active growing season (spring and early summer), thin and dark - what has grown during the second half of summer and autumn. Taken together, this represents a gain of one year.

Loose conductive tissue forms in early summer. From the second half, solid cells grow that can withstand mechanical stress - they give the tree stability. The tree-ring pattern is also visible on the longitudinal cut of the tree.

Over time, the wood degrades. Especially if the board or wood product is outdoors - under the influence of sun, rain, frost and wind. Light soft areas are destroyed faster, therefore, over time, the surface of the wood becomes uneven, ribbed.

In order to achieve this result, it is not necessary to wait many years, keeping the tree under the sun and wind. You can age wood brushing.

The process consists in mechanical removal of softer fibers. For this, hard brushes are used (in English brush - a brush). Depending on the required degree of aging, tools of various hardness are used: metal, nylon, sisal. A combination of them is possible: for a deeper and coarser processing, a metal brush is used, and a nylon and then sisal surface is treated to remove burrs.

In addition to attachments for a drill or an angle grinder (angle grinder, "grinder"), it is worth getting a hand tool - an abrasive cloth of different grain size, a hand cord brush. It is also convenient to use abrasive sponges: the flexible surface allows you to remove splinters from the recesses.

Regardless of the choice, during work, the direction of movement should be taken into account: it should be along the grain of the wood. Therefore, power tool attachments need to be flat, and not in the form of a cup.

Practice with a sample before starting the aging process.
Using various brushes, you can imitate not only atmospheric aging (exposure to wind, sun), but also the effect of a piece of wood rolled in water - these can be found on the banks of a river or sea. In this case, the wood is processed more deeply, and "traces of time" can be found not only along the grain. An example of such aging is the box in the photo below.

Aging of wood. Photo from the site o-drevesine.ru

In addition to the mechanical method (brushes), wood is textured using chemistry or sandblasting. The principle is the same: the softer parts are removed.

In the chemical method, acids and alkalis are used that can corrode organic matter, for example, sulfuric or nitric acid. You can experiment with aggressive household chemicals designed to remove stubborn dirt. Chemical treatment is used as an independent option or as an initial stage before mechanical brushing.

When sandblasted, the abrasive particles knock out softer layers. Sandblasting can be found in car repair shops, and is used to remove rust.

Using different brushing methods allows you to get a different effect. When processing with metal brushes, the relief of wood fibers will be deeper and more pronounced, after chemical etching and sandblasting - smoothed.

After obtaining the required texture, the wood is treated with stains, waxes, glaze coatings, varnishes. Coloring compounds (stains) paint soft areas more than hard ones. Lapis lazuli (glaze) additionally emphasize the relief, accumulating in the depressions.

Burning

The wooden surface is fired with a blowtorch or gas burner, and then the charred parts are cleaned off, rinsed abundantly with water and covered with oil. The degree of firing and subsequent brushing depends on preference. You can also choose a blowtorch in our market, for this look at the products in the selection.

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Wood that has passed through fire and water does not need additional toning - the surface of the board takes on a noble dark shade. But if desired, the burnt tree can be additionally covered with colored stains. The combination of red and jet black looks especially impressive.

House faced with burnt board. Photo from skyhousedesigncentre.com

Firing can be an independent type of finishing. Now this direction is gaining popularity and is considered the Japanese technique Shou Sugi Ban (Yakisugi), although this method of woodworking is known in many countries. In Russia, burning a tree was called firing.

Wood treated by fire becomes less combustible and practically does not rot and deteriorate by insects. Therefore, such boards are used for cladding and construction. It is not necessary to paint such a fence or facade regularly - a burnt board does not change its qualities for a hundred years.

Naturally, the designers could not pass by such material. They began to use objects processed by fire in interiors, to use boards in the Shou Sugi Ban technique of varying degrees of charring to decorate walls and ceilings. Oiled surfaces do not get dirty.

Wall cladding using Shou Sugi Ban technique. Photo from urbantimber.ca

Try to texture familiar wood - perhaps you will discover a new material.

1. Application
2. Wood requirements
3. Processing technology
4. We use a burner
5. Japanese way

It is known that fire is the most dangerous enemy of wood and is able to quickly destroy it. Based on this, it is strange to hear about the use of an open flame to process this material. However, with competent controlled firing of the surface with the help of fire, it is possible to improve the performance of the tree, protect it from external aggressive factors and significantly transform it outwardly, giving it a unique look.

Fire treatment of wood emphasizes the natural structure of the material, enhancing the contrast of the pattern, creates further resistance to decay, UV damage, and harmful insects. In addition, this material acquires refractory properties. The superficial loose layer, when burned, closes the channels and pores of the wood, creating protection for deep-lying fibers from mold, bacteria, moisture, sunlight and wind. In a similar way, various impregnations and antiseptics protect the material from destruction. However, such products are expensive, contain chemical additives and can be toxic. Flame processing is environmentally friendly, economical, does not require high professional skills.

Burnt wood looks aesthetically pleasing in the interior. Home brushing is done in a similar way - artificial aging of products and furniture: dressers, tables, chairs, panels, picture frames, caskets. You can burn material for the installation of logs of floor coverings, window frames, frames, doors, stairs, gazebos, technical buildings, benches, well log cabins, fences. If it is necessary to process complex massive structures, it is advisable to burn the wood before assembling the structures in order to successfully carry out the subsequent cleaning of hard-to-reach places. It is also not worth taking on large buildings because you can not keep track of the direction and strength of the flame, causing an uncontrolled fire. For inexperienced craftsmen, it is better to start with small boards or products.

Wood requirements

Deciduous trees - maple, birch, beech, cherry, alder and others - should not be treated with fire. It is advisable to burn only conifers: cedar, larch, spruce, pine. Their soft texture results in a superb, beautiful, smudge-free material. A canvas of any quality is suitable for decorative products: with knots, complex twists, eyes - the more effective the final result will be. Burning soft fibers form cavities, hard ones will become more prominent, after cleaning this will provide a textured contract surface. It is allowed to process in this way not only the massif, but also chipboard boards sheathed with coniferous veneer. If you need burnt wood for large-scale construction work, it is better to choose a higher quality one, without structural defects.

There is no need to prepare fresh material before firing: the flame will remove all roughness, replacing grinding. You will have to take care of the appearance after the wood has been treated with fire. The only thing that needs to be done is to clean off the resin drips from the lumber or first degum them. If they catch fire, all work will deteriorate. If the surface of furniture or other product has been previously covered with putty, paint or varnish, the remains are sanded to prevent unexpected ignition and to protect the material from stubborn stains. Wood impregnated with stain is fired according to the general rules. The surfaces covered with linseed oil cannot be processed. It is better to sand the old darkened wooden surface, having reached the fresh fibers, in order to get an aesthetic and externally beautiful material at the finish.

The firing material should not contain much moisture. This is especially true for fresh boards. 15% is the upper limit of the water content.

Processing technology

In industry, large blocks of wood are fired in special vacuum ovens. In this case, the thickness of the combustible layers can be up to 20 mm. It is impossible to achieve such results at home, and there is no particular need for them. You can provide the material with protective properties and give a decorative appearance using simple household tools.

Before starting work, you need to take care of the safety of the surrounding space and the objects in it. Firing should be done outdoors in calm weather. Small boards can be processed on the balcony, large items must be taken outside. At the same time, it is imperative to remove paper, plywood, cardboard products, rags, textiles, flammable chemicals from nearby surfaces. It is advisable to work on a refractory stone surface, metal sheet.

Suitable for firing as a source of flame:

• powerful blowtorch;
• construction hair dryer;
• gas-burner;
• gas cylinder with a special nozzle;
• dremel.

It is worth recalling that it is important to be able to use the listed equipment.

In addition to fire and wood, you will need a tool to cleanse the burnt layers. If you plan to work on small blocks and planks, a stiff metal brush is a good choice. Large-scale structures - large furniture, floors, stairs, buildings - it is more convenient to clean with a professional grinder, a saw-grinder, a drill with a special attachment.

To sweep the remains of burning, a flute is required - a brush with a soft bristle.

All work is carried out, protecting eyes, hands and clothing from possible sparks and burning. Place a bucket or other utensil with water nearby to extinguish unforeseen fires.

We use a burner

Firing with a gas burner is the most common. The flame should be even, calm, oblong and have a blue tint. The upper part has the highest temperature required for pyrolysis. Strong yellow fire is not suitable for firing. For successful flame treatment, it is evenly carried out several times over the surface. The movements should resemble the painting of the material with a brush. It is always best to start at the top. The burnt board must be burnt to a depth of about 4 mm. For training, an inexperienced master can try to burn unnecessary trimmings, achieving a high-quality result.

When the surface is evenly charred, the loose burnt layer is cleaned with a prepared tool. With a brush or grinder, work exclusively along the fibers so as not to damage the structure. At the same time, they use a flute, getting to the deeply hidden particles of burning, picking them out. This process is the most painstaking and time-consuming, it is important to perform it carefully, completely removing the detached soot, otherwise the material will look ugly. The quality of work is checked by wiping the wood with a napkin or soft cloth. To enhance the relief, to give the wood the look of real old antiques, repeat pyrolysis and brushing.

As a result of processing, a relief surface from dark golden to chocolate shades is obtained. If desired, the material is shaded with an aniline-based dye or a topcoat is applied immediately. You can use tinted primers, oil primers, nitrocellulose colorless varnishes, waxes.

Japanese way

According to Japanese technology, only the top layer of ash is removed from the wood, the boards are washed in water, and then impregnated with tung oil, which has antiseptic and moisture-repellent properties. The material processed in this way acquires a noble black and silver shade and shine. The modern approach allows for the convenience of using a gas burner, although in the old days, for such purposes, wood was simply placed in a fire or stove. Firing allowed the inhabitants of the islands to protect wooden buildings and residential buildings from the spread of fires - the ash layer on the material is practically immune to the effects of fire.

The service life of fired wood is increased several times. As a care, it is enough to varnish or impregnate it once every 1-2 years.

Wood is a good material: if you want - build, if you want - use it for decoration. You can and

do. One of the important positive properties of wood is the mass of options for finishing its surface. Each method gives its own unique effect, and it can be matched to any image and style.

This material is durable: furniture made of natural wood, with proper care, serves for many years - tens, or even hundreds. And wood does not lose its beauty over time - on the contrary, like cognac, it can become even more interesting.

Time does not spoil wooden furniture The charm of a time-worn wooden surface is so strong that there is a whole direction in the production of furniture - artificial aging. Previous publications on this topic (Renewing old furniture. Aging with staining and Renewing old furniture. The charm of cracks) discussed how you can age furniture with varnishes and paints. In this article, we'll look at how to mechanically give wood surfaces a more venerable look.

Brushing

The wood is heterogeneous in its composition: annual rings are visible on the cut of the tree. The number of circles determines the age, and their width depends on many reasons: breed, food conditions, weather, location (in the sun or in the shade). Growth rings are wider in young trees - they grow more actively. The size of the rings is also influenced by whether a particular tree has grown from a seed (narrower) or root growth.

Growth rings of a tree The light and wider section of the ring is the growth in the first half of the active growing season (spring and early summer), thin and dark - what has grown during the second half of summer and autumn. Taken together, this represents a gain of one year.

Loose conductive tissue forms in early summer. From the second half, solid cells grow that can withstand mechanical stress - they give the tree stability. The tree-ring pattern is also visible on the longitudinal cut of the tree.

Over time, the wood degrades. Especially if the board or wood product is outdoors - under the influence of sun, rain, frost and wind. Light soft areas are destroyed faster, therefore, over time, the surface of the wood becomes uneven, ribbed.

Old plank To achieve this result, you do not have to wait many years, keeping the tree in the sun and wind. You can age wood brushing.

The process consists in mechanical removal of softer fibers. For this, hard brushes are used (in English brush - a brush). Depending on the required degree of aging, tools of various hardness are used: metal, nylon, sisal. A combination of them is possible: for a deeper and coarser processing, a metal brush is used, and a nylon and then sisal surface is treated to remove burrs.

Brushes for brushing In addition to attachments for a drill or an angle grinder (angle grinder, grinder), it is worth getting a hand tool - an abrasive cloth of different grain size, a hand cord brush. It is also convenient to use abrasive sponges: the flexible surface allows you to remove splinters from the recesses.

Regardless of the choice, during work, the direction of movement should be taken into account: it should be along the grain of the wood. Therefore, power tool attachments need to be flat, and not in the form of a cup.

Practice with a sample before starting the aging process.

Using various brushes, you can imitate not only atmospheric aging (exposure to wind, sun), but also the effect of a piece of wood rolled in water - these can be found on the banks of a river or sea. In this case, the wood is processed more deeply, and "traces of time" can be found not only along the grain. An example of such aging is the box in the photo below.

Aging of wood. Photo from the site o-drevesine.ru

In addition to the mechanical method (brushes), wood is textured using chemistry or sandblasting. The principle is the same: the softer parts are removed.

In the chemical method, acids and alkalis are used that can corrode organic matter, for example, sulfuric or nitric acid. You can experiment with aggressive household chemicals designed to remove stubborn dirt. Chemical treatment is used as an independent option or as an initial stage before mechanical brushing.

A combination of old planks and a modern sofa. Photo from the site mebelica.ru When processing with a sandblaster, particles of abrasive knock out softer layers. Sandblasting can be found in car repair shops, and is used to remove rust.

Using different brushing methods allows you to get a different effect. When processing with metal brushes, the relief of wood fibers will be deeper and more pronounced, after chemical etching and sandblasting - smoothed.

The treated wood is covered with stains and varnish. After obtaining the required texture, the wood is treated with stains, waxes, glaze coatings, varnishes. Coloring compounds (stains) paint soft areas more than hard ones. Lapis lazuli (glaze) additionally emphasize the relief, accumulating in the depressions.

Burning

Firing wood is most often considered as the first stage of brushing - just like with chemical etching, the softer areas are destroyed (burned) first.

The beauty of simplicity. Photo from the site wickdpleasures.tumblr.com

The wooden surface is fired with a blowtorch or gas burner, and then the charred parts are cleaned off, rinsed abundantly with water and covered with oil. The degree of firing and subsequent brushing depends on preference.

Wood that has passed through fire and water does not need additional toning - the surface of the board takes on a noble dark shade. But if desired, the burnt tree can be additionally covered with colored stains. The combination of red and jet black looks especially impressive.

House faced with burnt board. Photo from skyhousedesigncentre.com

Firing can be an independent type of finishing. Now this direction is gaining popularity and is considered the Japanese technique Shou Sugi Ban (Yakisugi), although this method of woodworking is known in many countries. In Russia, burning a tree was called firing.

Wood treated by fire becomes less combustible and practically does not rot and deteriorate by insects. Therefore, such boards are used for facing facades, building fences. It is not necessary to paint such a fence or facade regularly - a burnt board does not change its qualities for a hundred years.

Fired wood fence. Photo from oilobit.com

Naturally, the designers could not pass by such material. They began to use objects processed by fire in interiors, to use boards in the Shou Sugi Ban technique of varying degrees of charring to decorate walls and ceilings. Oiled surfaces do not get dirty.

Wall cladding using Shou Sugi Ban technique. Photo from urbantimber.ca

Try to texture familiar wood - perhaps you will discover a new material.

Structuring is a technique that allows you to most clearly highlight and show the natural beauty of wood. Often this method is called "brushing" - from the English word "brush" - brush, brush, scrub.

Brushing is used for those types of wood that have a good structure visible to the naked eye. The annual rings of such wood should be distinguishable and spaced apart from each other at a considerable distance. The point of structuring is to pull soft fibers from the top layer of the wood surface. Depressions appear in place of the soft layers, while the harder layers form ridges. In this case, the surface becomes embossed, textured.
For structuring, wood is most suitable, which has a low density, uneven texture, and, oddly enough, has some "flaws" that often reduce the cost of the material, but after brushing give striking decorative effects. Such defects include the presence of knots, curliness (winding or irregular arrangement of wood fibers), curls (curvature of annual layers near knots), eyes (traces of dormant buds that have not developed into the shoot).

Wood types suitable for structuring: pine, spruce, larch, oak, ash, walnut,

Not suitable for brushing: beech, pear, cherry, juniper, teak, maple, alder.

Structuring is done in two ways - chemical and mechanical. With the chemical method, special compounds are applied to the surface of the wood, soften it, and then mechanical scraping of the soft layers occurs. Although it is faster and easier, the chemical structuring process has its big drawbacks. For chemical brushing, ammonia, shumanite and other far from "soft" agents are used, which means that work must be done in special protection and in well-ventilated rooms. In short, it's all disgusting, disgusting, and does not suit us. So let's move on to mechanical brushing. It can be manual and machine. The latter is good for large-scale work or for mass production - parquet, walls, beams. The layers are sampled using special devices or drill-attachment brushes.

And what, we would like to make beautiful boards and boxes, so we will all be handles ... For manual brushing, you need a beautiful piece of wood with an even surface, of course, a brush and a wide bristle brush - a flutes. You will need a brush like this:

You can buy it in most hardware and hardware stores, and many have it at home - it is used to clean surfaces of old paint.

The structuring of wood is soft and hard. With soft structuring, the selection of fibers occurs at a shallow depth, only "denotes" the wood pattern. This treatment is good for subsequent varnishing. tinting, decoupage on unprimed wood, Rigid structuring is performed to a great depth, sometimes in 2-3 steps, depressions and ridges are clearly visible, the workpiece resembles an old board that has been lying for a long time in the open air. After such brushing, the wood can be tinted, giving it an aged look, most suitable for the technique of uncovered fibers.

Well, the theoretical part is over, I propose to move on to practice. We all know how to tint, paint, stain and wax wood, so I won't talk about that. And showing brushing on a simple tree is boring. I want to show brushing after firing - this is a rarer technique, but quite accessible and not difficult.

To do this, you will need, however, one device - a gas burner. Now you can buy a wonderful contraption, here is such a Dremel Boshevsky

It is refueled with gas from an ordinary can for lighters, the refueling is enough for a long time. Just do not forget about safety precautions - after all, the flame there has a very decent temperature! By the way. there are a lot of all sorts of attachments in the set, very useful. With this burner you can burn wood and leather (pyrograph), you can solder, you can clean off old paint, a lot of things, I have not fully studied it yet ...

Now let's get started. So, we need a piece of wood (preferably pine) with a beautiful fiber structure, a burner, a brush, a flute. Work is best done outdoors (after all, smoke, fire again, and there will be a lot of dust). I burn in the apartment - on the balcony with open frames, the smoke pulls a little, but not a disaster, and the smell is pleasant. Yes, and the household does not mind, knowing that I know how to handle this device and the apartment will not burn. But I'm already going to take a sample on another - an open balcony in the common hall, where the breeze blows, dust does not fly into the apartment.

The farm found a pine box from Armagnac, so I will work on it.

We turn on the burner and begin to burn the surface. Firing should be carried out evenly, not staying for a long time in one place, but also not "flickering" with your hand, allowing the wood to burn evenly, without heavily burnt and light unburned stains. Choose the degree of "charring" yourself - it can be from a slight "firing" to complete blackening. Just so that everything is the same. I like it harder, but it's a matter of taste.

Hold the burner like a handle, do not strain your hand so that the movements are smooth, not jerky. And do not be afraid - the burner handle does not heat up, just do not substitute your other hand under the flame.

Sometimes there are resin pockets and drips in the wood, the resin starts to burn - do not let it do this. just blow out the flame. Otherwise, in this place the tree will burn out more strongly, then there will be a stain. Knots and other "beauty" are sometimes worse fried, this place can be fired several times, for evenness.

This is how the box became

and this is a pine board from my early work, I will also show the result later

When the firing is finished, proceed to sampling. You will need a brush and a stiff brush. The brush is needed to sweep away the scraped-off sawdust.

Lay the workpiece horizontally, brush along the fired surface strictly along the fibers, in one direction, in long strokes from start to finish. If it is possible to fix the workpiece, then you can work with two hands, pressing the second on the top of the brush and creating additional force. If you work with one hand, be very careful - take care of the other hand! The bristles on the brush are metallic and sharp, one careless movement - and you need iodine and a bandage, and the workpiece is "protonated" in a different color, which will be difficult to get rid of. So "Senya, take care of your hand!"

By the way, with normal brushing, without firing, to reduce the amount of dust and easier work, the surface of the workpiece can be moistened with water. But don't blot too much, just spray or walk with a wet brush and let stand for a couple of minutes. Soft fibers are easier to remove.

After we have scraped a little, we take a flutter in our hand and clean off the sawdust. It is necessary to brush not with free arbitrary strokes, but again along the fibers, in the direction in which they worked with the brush. And not with stroking movements, as we apply paint, but "against the pile", as if knocking out dust from the recesses with bristles. If you do otherwise, the dust grains are smoothed out in the depressions, clogged deeper.

After we have cleaned the workpiece, we begin to scrape further, then you can turn it over, work with a brush in the opposite direction. But again, only along the fibers, only in long movements. If the brush is unsuccessfully brushing not along the fibers, then deep noticeable scratches will remain. Do we need it?

So, evenly scrape and clean off the sawdust until that moment. until we like the color and texture of the wood. You can stop a little earlier or later. Here is the box after firing and structuring:

You can still scrape it off, it will be more contrasting, but even now you can see that soft layers are selected faster and easier. This blank can now be tinted or something else can be done with it. But it was a single firing and brushing - a soft structuring turned out, the relief does not stand out much. If you want something more “extreme”, you can do a second firing and scrape again. As a result, you will get something like this (these are fragments of the board that I showed in a charred form). These are fragments, an angle view, but the relief is clearly visible:

And this is a top view

In general, I am a lover of rigid structuring, I do not tint finished products. and cover with wax or wax varnish. I like the roughness and "naturalness" of the material. But this is my choice, and most still use tinting, staining, bleaching and other decorative techniques.

My works in this technique are simple, crude and unpretentious ... Owls, however, are painted in oil, but I wrote about them before.