Do-it-yourself entrance metal doors drawings. Sheet metal and profile door welding. Welding sequence

Every person who knows how to use a welding machine has a desire to make a beautiful and reliable iron door with his own hands. This work requires skills, but the product will turn out to be individual, guaranteed strong and durable. The process of welding such doors does not require fantastic financial costs and does not take much time. It is necessary to calculate the amount of material and prepare the necessary tools, but first you need to make measurements and draw a detailed drawing of the future product. We will describe in detail the entire production process and sequence of operations.

The preparatory work consists in choosing the design and construction of the future door, since each door is unique in size and can be outdoor or indoor. To understand how to weld a door correctly, you need to decide on the material, fittings and decor that you want to use. In order to calculate the number of components, you need to make measurements and make an accurate drawing. In the process of preparatory work, the following circumstances must be taken into account:

the recommended dimensions of the door are not more than 100 X 200 cm, otherwise it will be too heavy, because additional stiffeners will be needed;
if the dimensions of the opening exceed 200 cm in height, it is necessary to close the excess part of the opening with insulated decorative or blind inserts;
if the opening is wider than 100 cm, you can put a blind insert or a hinged securely fixed sash;
determine in which direction the door will open, and select the appropriate locks;
calculate the location of the locks and the door peephole in accordance with the growth of the residents;
determine the type of paintwork, insulation and interior decorative coating;
calculate the type and depth of the door frame attachment points, anti-removable pins and vertical attachment drive;
calculate the parameters and determine the type of metal components.

It is very important to make sure that the box will be attached to a solid opening, and not to wooden or plastered fragile surfaces.

The drawing, made to scale, should indicate the location of the peephole, handles, keyholes, hinges (from 2 to 4 pieces), stiffeners and anti-removable devices and mechanisms. To adjust, the door leaf must be smaller than the box, and it, in turn, should be two centimeters smaller than the doorway.

Necessary tools and materials

Fast and high-quality work is possible only if there is a convenient and properly organized workplace and serviceable tools. Self-welding of metal doors requires a certain tool minimum, which consists of the following set:

convenient and durable mounting table;
welding machine with a set of electrodes and a mask;
marking tool, felt-tip pen or sharpened chalk;
welding magnets with an angle of 90 ° and clamps;
angle grinder (grinder) with discs;
electric drill and screwdriver with a set of drills and bits;
perforator with carbide drills;
serviceable electrical extension cords;
tape measure and building level.

After measuring and drawing up a detailed drawing, you can accurately calculate the amount and name of the metal required for welding doors, as well as select locks, hinges and other components. The natural desire to emphasize one's own individuality can influence the choice of material, and special attention here must be paid to the appearance, hinges, increased security of locks, anti-removable knots and additional locking mechanisms. The standard set of materials for a metal door consists of the following elements:

for the front sheet, steel with a thickness of at least 2-3 mm is selected, according to the size of the door with the overlap of the box, usually 100 X 210 cm;
the door frame is welded from a corner of 3 X 3 cm;
for the door frame and stiffeners use a profiled pipe 2.5 X 5 cm and strips;
fastening of the box to the opening is provided by strips 3 mm thick in the amount of 4-6 pcs. and 30 cm long;
door hinges in the amount of 3 pieces;
selected fittings and mounting bolts;
primer and polymer paint;
insulation and interior decoration.

It is important that the locks have high wear resistance, and the hinges are equipped with bearings to ensure noiselessness and long service life.

Welding sequence

The door welding process is individual and depends on the specific project. It is necessary that the parameters of the welding machine allow stable operation at the existing voltage in the network. To comply with the required dimensions and angles, you need to check with the measuring tool as often as possible, and also use special welding magnets when working. The sequence of operations consists in the phased implementation of the following main points, namely:

the door frame is marked and cut, magnets are placed in the corners, tack welding is performed;
in case of violation of the connection angle, it is corrected, then the structure is finally welded;
seams are processed on all sides by a grinder;
then the door frame is cut and welded with obligatory measurement of diagonals;
a gap between the box and the frame of 3 mm is required on three sides and 5 mm on the side of the locks;
stiffening ribs are welded into the door frame, taking into account the location of the locks, peephole, anti-removable pins, vertical locking drive;
mark the front sheet and weld it to the frame and stiffeners with a seam of about 4 cm every 15-20 cm;
we weld the hinges, having previously drilled a hole for lubrication;
we attach the lock assembly, pins to the welded door and drill all the necessary holes;
we weld plates for fastening to the box, grind and prime the iron door;
then painting is carried out, and after drying, all fittings are attached;
the door leaf is insulated and finished on the inside with final painting.

It is important to carry out the production process without haste, carefully measuring the corners and ensuring that the locks, vertical locks and pivoting hinges work flawlessly.

Of course, this sequence does not reflect the nuances of each individual metal door, but the basic scheme is set out correctly. Thickness, dimensions, and hence weight are selected depending on the needs and individuality of each owner. At the same time, it must be taken into account that additional mass will require an increase in rigidity, and this will lead to a greater load on the frame, hinges and door frame.

Results

We talked about how to calculate, mark and weld a metal door with our own hands, about what tools are needed for this process, what sequence of actions must be followed. Quality comes with experience, but you will certainly save a lot of money, as well as make a door to your taste and size. Successful and successful work!

Even a novice master can handle this if he knows how to handle a welding machine.

Of course, you won’t succeed immediately with a complex model, but it’s quite affordable to make and install a basic model of an entrance door.

The importance of the front door is hard to underestimate.

This is not only the first and main frontier preventing the penetration of dishonest citizens into your home, but also one of the key details of the interior of a residential building.

Noise isolation and regulation of the air temperature in the room are two more functions of the entrance metal door.

And if you start a major overhaul in the apartment, then the question of installing a new entrance metal door is one of the first to be decided.

A ready-made door purchased in a store does not at all guarantee that there are no hidden defects in it, and the prices there are not always affordable, adjusting it will be difficult, and sound insulation will probably not suit you.

Well, self-made shaped doors are still ahead of you, and we will start with the simplest.

As in other cases, the manufacture of a metal door begins with paperwork, in other words, we have to create a drawing.

In order for the drawing to be accurate and true to reality, you have to decide on the dimensions.

The design diagram of the front door offered for review will introduce you to the names and location of the main components and elements.

We are preparing a scheme

The drawing of the entrance metal door is a large-scale diagram of the door leaf, according to which the assembly and installation of the product will be carried out, with the dimensions of the door frame applied to it, the locations of the stiffeners, hinges.

We arm ourselves with a tape measure and take measurements from the doorway.

The standard door size is 90 x 200 cm, if the actual dimensions of the opening are much larger than the data, it makes sense to install a separate block on top or on the side of the door leaf.

The side block can be made deaf or hinged, and the top block can be closed with sheet iron, glazed or barred.

All this is also applied to our drawing.

The dimensions of the door frame should be 2 cm less than the doorway - this will be the mounting gap in which the installation of the unit is adjusted to avoid distortions. Below is a sectional diagram of a metal door.

Most often, the door is attached to 2-4 hinges, their number depends on the weight that your design has.

Loops are external and hidden, the second option is more difficult to manufacture and requires certain skills.

Since we are trying to make a "door for beginners", we will focus on the first option.

To evenly distribute the load, the hinges must be made at an equal distance between each other, and the uppermost and lower hinges must be located at a distance of 15 cm from the edge of the door.

You can make stiffeners in any direction - horizontally, vertically or with a mesh, as well as diagonally - everything is up to you.

The ribs must be made so that they do not pass in places where the installation of the lock, peephole, door handle will be performed.

You determine the number of ribs yourself, it must ensure the inflexibility of the door under its own weight, otherwise the door will need to be repaired after a while.

So, the drawing is ready.

We prepare materials and tools

Having decided on the dimensions, we prepare a set of tools that we will need during the work, calculate the amount of materials needed and go to the store.

We offer you an approximate list of tools:

welding machine;
drill;
a set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver;
Bulgarian;
clamps;
files or grinder;
goats or door table for assembly;
measuring instruments (corner; tape measure, etc.);
building level.

For a metal door of a standard size, you will need:

steel sheet 2-3 mm thick - 100 x 200 cm;
metal corner 3; 2 x 3; 2 cm - 6 p.m. (for door frame);
profile pipe 5 x 2; 5 cm - about 9 running meters. (for the door frame and stiffeners);
metal plates 40 x 4 cm 2-3 mm thick - at least 4 pieces (for attaching the door frame to the walls);
door hinges;
lock;
accessories;
anchor bolts;
anti-corrosion coating;
paint for metal;
assembly foam.

Fittings and lock choose to your taste. Manufacturers offer a wide range of locks, the most reliable of which are three-way.

A lock with crossbars on three sides, of course, is more difficult to install, but it is also not easy to crack it.

If you are making a metal door for a utility room (barn), then it is allowed to make a lightweight economical option - in this case, a thick reinforcing bar is used instead of a profile pipe for stiffeners.

Door assembly

The work on assembling a metal door is carried out in several stages.

Assembling the box

From the professional pipe, it is necessary to make blanks for the box, cut the corners inward at an angle of 90 °, lay out the corner with a rectangle, fix it with clamps and grab it by welding.

After we check the perpendicularity of the sides with a square, and also measure the distance between diagonally opposite pairs of corners and compare, the measurements obtained should be equal.

If there is a skew, then additional adjustment will be required. If everything is in order, then we perform the final welding and grinding of the seams.

The same scheme will later be used by us to assemble the door frame.

We weld metal mounting plates to the box.

Assembling the door panel

Here we need a new measurement - we take measurements along the inner walls of the door frame.

Stepping back 7-10 cm on each side, we get the actual dimensions of the frame of our metal door.

We cut segments of the required length from the corners and perform pre-processing, similarly to the blank for the door frame.

We lay the prepared corners inside the finished box, forming a rectangle, and carry out a control measurement of the correctness of the design.

If necessary, we make adjustments and weld the joints tightly.

We proceed to the manufacture of the door leaf, for which we lay the steel sheet on the table (goats), place the finished frame on top and draw a contour of the desired dimensions, retreating from the outer edges of the frame by about 10 cm.

We cut the sheet along the contour, grind the cut points and weld it to the frame.

Be careful, in order to avoid deformation, do not weld with a continuous inseparable seam.

It is much more functional to weld in lengths of about 30 mm at intervals of 15-20 mm in the direction from the center to the edges of the product.

Take your time, periodically let the doors cool down, otherwise hidden defects may appear, and the door will have to be repaired in a short time.

We lay the door leaf on the table with the outer side down, you need to install the door frame on top.

Using pads 2-5 mm thick around the entire perimeter, the position of the box relative to the frame is adjusted.

In this gap, a sealing tape will later be installed, which will improve the qualities of the door, such as sound insulation.

On the finished door leaf, we make cuts for the internal lock and, if necessary, under the peephole, drill holes for attaching the door handle, and carefully grind the edges of the holes.

The size of the cut for the lock should be such that its installation is without play, but provides access to the lock if repairs are required.

We will embed the lock itself and install the fittings a little later.

If you use a padlock, then you need to install the door leaf and the lining box for it at the same level.

We fasten half of the door hinges with grooves to the door frame, weld the second parts of the hinges (with pins pointing upwards) in the appropriate places to the door frame so that they are located on the same axis, grind the welding points.

Some hinges are equipped with holes for lubrication, in which case their installation should provide access to technological holes and the ability to remove the door if repairs need to be made.

We wipe the metal structure from dust and chips so that hidden defects do not appear after painting, apply anti-corrosion protection, on top of which, after drying, you can tint or make a decorative finish.

You can learn more and visually about the process of manufacturing an entrance metal door using the video below.

We mount the door

We place the door frame in the opening and carry out the adjustment with the help of a plumb line and level, so that repairs do not have to be done in the near future.

Having achieved the correct position of the box, we make the installation, fixing the steel hinges to the wall with the help of anchors, we hang the door leaf on the hinges.

We check - if the installation is done correctly, then the metal door will close and open without distortions, without catching on the door frame, and the hinges will move effortlessly.

At the final stage, the peephole is installed, the lock is inserted and the handle is installed.

The lock and handle are bolted to the door so that they can be easily repaired or replaced later.

Having completed the installation of the lock, we rub the end sides of the crossbars with chalk and make marks on the door frame. We cut the metal according to the resulting marks, forming grooves for the crossbars.

For additional protection of the lock from possible breaking, we weld a piece of the corner to the door leaf at the exit points of the crossbars, it also makes sense to reinforce the door leaf at the place of installation of the lock by welding a 6 mm thick steel sheet from its inside.

At the same stage, the operation of the lock, the density of closing the door are adjusted.

Another video for those who make repairs gives very relevant recommendations on how to properly strengthen the door and embed the lock, how it is adjusted.

Now you can start finishing.

At the very beginning of the article, it was already mentioned that the metal door at the entrance to the house should perform some functions, such as sound insulation, preventing foreign odors and low temperature air from entering the room.

The most practical, effective and cheap insulating material for finishing doors is generally recognized as ordinary foam.

We cut the foam into pieces of the desired size and lay them without gaps in the space of the door leaf between the stiffeners.

For better sealing, we will use mounting foam, which will seal the space between the foam and the stiffeners, around the lock, and also seal the interior of the stiffeners through pre-drilled holes.

Noise isolation is also excellently provided by mineral wool.

From the inside, a metal door can be sheathed with wooden slats, MDF panels or other finishing material, and we glue a sealing tape along the perimeter of the door leaf.

We foam the mounting gaps between the door frame and the slopes of the doorway. Our design is ready to go!

Now you can be sure that there are no hidden defects in this design, the quality of the entrance metal door is 100%, and doing the work yourself made it possible to save a considerable amount from the family budget when doing repairs.

The installation of the entrance metal door is demonstrated to us by the masters in this video tutorial.

Do you need a normal iron door, but the prices on the market “bite”? There is an option to build it yourself. Let's take a look at how a metal door is made with our own hands, starting with preparing a tool, purchasing material and sketching a sketch, and ending with insulation and a fine finish.

Making an iron door yourself is quite realistic.

Making a metal door with your own hands for an amateur is a very real task, but there is one caveat: you must work freely as a grinder and own a welding machine at least at the initial level. But before you make the door itself, you need to prepare the tool and material.

Tool selection

Bulgarian;
Welding machine;
Screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers;
Electric drill with impact function or hammer drill;
Round "bastard" file;
A hammer;
Roulette;
Kern;
Level (preferably 1.5 m);
Square.

Home craft tool.

In addition, you will need a variety of accessories for power tools. This refers to discs for a grinder for metal, a cord brush for a grinder, drills for a drill, emery and other small things without which it is impossible to make a metal door with your own hands.

Purchase of material for the manufacture of a metal door

For iron doors you need to buy:

Metal sheet with a thickness of 1.5 to 3 mm;
Profiled pipe 40x20 mm - at least 7 - 8 m;
Corner 50x50 mm - about 7 m;
Strip 40x4 mm - 2 m;
Loops are ordinary father-mother or articulated - 2 pcs.

If you do not have much experience in welding work, then it is better to take a thicker sheet for front doors, at least at least 2 mm, and preferably 3 mm. Welding of metal doors the matter is not particularly difficult, but a thin sheet is very easy to burn through.

Material for metal doors

You will also need a good flat table or some kind of goats, it is very difficult to make a metal door on the ground, and for a novice master it is not realistic at all.

Making a sketch

Professional drawings for standard iron doors can now be found, but the problem is that these documents were made in accordance with GOST 31173-2003, that is, 2200x900 mm or 2200x1200 mm (for wide openings).

Professional drawing for a door welded from metal

The entrance metal door in an apartment or a private house does not always meet the standard, so it is better to draw up a sketch. Otherwise, on a non-standard opening, you will either have to cut out part of the slope, or somehow close up the gap next to the door.

An example of a sketch for a non-standard iron door.

Since we are already making an iron door with our own hands, then at the stage of creating a sketch, you need to take into account some tolerances, they are shown below in an example:

The starting dimensions of the doorway are 216x90 cm;
It is impossible to make a frame (loot) close to the walls, since there will be nowhere to fill in the mounting foam, therefore, along the upper edge we leave 10 mm for the foam, plus 5 mm thickness of the corner;
At the bottom we make a small threshold, respectively, 25 mm from the corner will be cut off, the total remains 212 cm frame height along the inner perimeter;
On the sides, we also leave 10 mm for the foam, plus 10 mm is the thickness of the metal in 2 corners, the total width of the internal opening is 87 cm;
The steel door itself, or rather the frame under it, cannot be made close to the loot, if the house starts to “walk” and the loot moves a little, then the canvas will jam. Therefore, we leave a gap of 5 mm along the outer perimeter, respectively, it turns out 211x86 cm;
We take a larger sheet (90x215 cm), as it will overlap with part of the loot.

The tool was prepared, the material was bought, the sketch was made, now you can start building iron doors with your own hands.

Seven stages of steel door assembly

You can make metal doors with your own hands only from a corner or only from a profiled pipe, but the mixed version is more reliable and practical. It is better to weld the outer frame (chute) from a corner of 50x50 mm, and the frame for the door leaf from a profiled pipe 40x20 mm.

Stage number 1. We weld the loot

First of all, we cut off the corners according to the scheme and fix them on the desktop or goats with clamps. It is important here that the bottom plane is even, and the corners are connected at 90º. We check the rectangle of the box along the diagonals, if they are the same, then the corners will be right.

Fixing the frame with clamps.

It’s not worth scalding the corners right away, they can lead, first we grab at several points and again measure the diagonals until everything is boiled, you can still adjust minor inaccuracies.

Spot grip.

When scalding corners, first we put all the vertical seams, and then we move on to the horizontal ones, so the metal will overheat less. We will cut out the extra part of the corner later.

Corner welding.

Now we turn the frame over and check the plane with a long level or any even standard. There should not be any distortions and bends.

Checking the plane of the frame.

We boil the outer joints and immediately grind these seams with a grinder.

Welding of external seams.

As shown in the photo above, we still have a piece of the corner not cut out from the inside, it needs to be removed, as it will interfere with installation. To do this, turn the frame over again and cut out the extra parts with a grinder. Lootka is ready, now you can move on to the frame for the iron door.

Cut out the excess parts.

Stage number 2. Frame for the door leaf

When cutting profiled pipes under the frame of the door leaf, first measure all the long parts, and then cut out the short ones from the remnants. Otherwise, you may not guess even then, large vertical racks will have to be welded from pieces.

It is better to make a slot under the lock immediately. To do this, we measure 1 m from the bottom of the rack and make 2 vertical cuts along the dimensions of the lock, and cut this strip obliquely in the middle. To make it easier to break the pieces, we make small cuts on them, the arrows in the photo indicate these cuts.

Primary fitting of the castle.

In order for the frame of the door leaf to clearly fall into place, we fix the profiled pipes with clamps on the inside of the loot. Do not forget: there should be a gap of 5 mm between the profiled pipe and the corner, for this we insert gaskets. As gaskets, you can use the same trimmings of the corner.

Fixing the profiled pipe on the frame.

Here it is important how to put profiled pipes, any such pipe has a welded seam, and so, this seam should “look” inside the canvas.

Welded seam of profiled pipe.

When constructing a frame for a door leaf, it is no longer necessary to check the diagonals, since we are “attached” to the outer frame. The corners are welded by analogy with a loot, that is, we grab at several points, and then weld the joints from the center to the edges.

Welding the corners of the door frame.

Here, while the frame is in the loot, we weld the transverse stiffeners, they are made of a profiled pipe.

Fastening ribs.

Now we remove the clamps, remove the outer frame and weld the ends of the joints in the corners, after which we grind all the seams. Be careful, the metal is thin and burns easily.

Grinding welded seams from the outside is mandatory.

Always control where you have the top, bottom, hinges and lock. At this stage it is very easy to confuse and then it will be difficult to correct the situation without losses.

Stage number 3. Sheet fastening

First we need to cut the sheet to size. From the frame of the door leaf, to the edge of the sheet, we leave 20 mm (5 mm for the gap, plus 15 mm for the overlap of the loot). To cut the sheet exactly according to the markup, you can use a profiled pipe, just fasten it with clamps and cut it with a grinder along the edge.

Standard for cutting a sheet with a grinder.

We put the door frame on the cut sheet, check that the overlap is clearly observed everywhere and spot-weld the profiled pipes to the sheet (a step of about 100 - 150 mm). To prevent the frame from moving during welding, it can be fixed with clamps.

Grab the frame not along the perimeter, but diagonally. That is: they welded one point, then switched to the opposite one, and so on until everything is scalded. Otherwise, the design may lead.

Spot welding door leaf.

Stage number 4. How to weld loops

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Canopies we buy usual, such as father-mother (dad with a pin). Before installation, canopies must be lubricated immediately.
	From the edge of the canvas to the canopies there should be 20 - 25 cm, both above and below.
	The canopy should be slightly raised so that the sheet does not cling to the frame when opening.
	The canopy is set so that when viewed from above, there is a gap of 1 - 2 mm between it and the sheet.
	Before how to cook construction, place a gasket under the sheet (a piece of the same sheet). The gap is for the rubber seal.
	We weld the awnings.
	To keep the canopy more secure, you can weld a metal plate with an overlap on the canvas frame, but this is more a recommendation than a rule.

Stage number 5. We cut the lock

The lock has already been inserted into the door frame, now you need to try on and mark the places of cuts in the loot.

Marking for holes in the corner.

We drill holes for the keyhole with a large drill, after which we bring it to the desired size with a round bastard file.

Keyhole hole.

The holes in the corner for the lock itself are cut out by a grinder and also processed with a file. It is advisable to close the lock bolts from the inside with a metal casing, it can be made from a profiled pipe or corner, the casing must be welded.

Cover to protect the bolts of the lock.

Now it remains to try on the overlay on made earlier holes and you can proceed to facing work.

Installing the padlock.

Stage number 6. Facing and insulation

It is cheaper and best to insulate iron doors with polystyrene, as a rule, PSB-S-25 plates 40 mm thick are taken. The plate is cut out a little less than the opening, and the gap is then blown out with mounting foam.

Insulation of entrance doors with foam plastic.

It is not necessary to insulate entrance doors with mineral wool. The fact is that any cotton wool is afraid of moisture and sits down after getting wet, so after a couple of years such a heater will stop working.

From the inside, the structure can be sheathed with any plate you like, from OSB to laminated MDF.

Laminated MDF door trims.

You can also read a more detailed article on the insulation of metal doors -.

The outer front of the doors can also be finished with a laminated board, but it will be easier and cheaper to paint the metal with hammer paint, this is done like this:

All metal is cleaned with a cord brush (it is convenient to use a cord nozzle on a grinder);
The structure is degreased with acetone or gasoline;
The metal is covered with primer under the previously selected hammer paint;
2-3 layers of paint are applied with a brush, roller or spray gun.

Painting iron doors with hammer paint.

Stage number 7. Installation of metal doors

To fix the iron doors, you must first weld on the perimeter of the loot a kind of shanks from a strip of 40x4 mm.

Shanks for fixing iron doors.

The design is installed in the following sequence:

Insert the loot into the doorway;
With a perforator, drill blind holes in the slopes through the shanks;
Then you can hammer metal crutches or fix the structure with anchor bolts;
Hang the door leaf;
Blow out the gaps around the perimeter of the loot with mounting foam;
The door is installed, now it remains to cut off the excess dried foam and equip the slopes.

This is how an iron door is installed with your own hands.

Conclusion

As you can see, at home “production”, without professional schemes and expensive equipment, a good iron door was assembled by hand and it cost about half as much as the factory counterpart.

With good decor, a homemade door will look no worse than a factory one.

Sections of the article:

In the market of entrance doors, steel structures rightfully occupy one of the leading positions. The manufacturing technology and the positive characteristics of the material make it possible to prevent unauthorized entry into the premises and withstand all illegal opening attempts by selecting door keys, destroying or deforming the door leaf. The range of finished products in specialized stores is quite extensive, however, making an iron door with your own hands is not only possible, but also accessible to virtually everyone. It is only important to have the desire and experience to work with a welding machine, as well as to strictly adhere to the sequence when working with materials and tools.

The main reasons for the manufacture of steel doors on their own include:

Non-standard dimensions of the structure, which should be the result;
The embodiment of the exclusive idea of the designer;
Use of special materials;
Opportunity to obtain a high quality product;
Economic component.

A high-quality iron door has high protective properties, provides sufficient heat and sound insulation, and has a long service life.

Iron structure design

The process of manufacturing an iron door should begin with the creation of a drawing, which indicates the actual dimensions of the product. The resulting scheme will serve as the basis for the assembly and subsequent installation of the door.

You need to start by measuring the width and height of the doorway. The measurements obtained are transferred to paper, a diagram of the future design is drawn with the specified width and height of the door leaf.

The standard size of the metal structure is 900 mm x 2000 mm. If the dimensions are larger, then an additional block is installed on top, closed with sheet metal, glass, grating, or a blind or swing block is welded on the side. All elements are specified in the project.

The dimensions of the door frame should be 2 cm smaller than the size of the doorway. The resulting gap will subsequently greatly simplify the process of installing the box and allow you to adjust it if necessary.
The number of loops is calculated taking into account the weight of the structure, as a rule, 2 - 4 canopies are used. To evenly distribute the load, the hinges are welded at the same distance from each other. In this case, the first and last are welded at a distance of 15 cm from the outer edge of the door.

The next step is to reinforce the door frame with additional stiffeners. The main stiffener is located in the middle of the door leaf, and additional stiffeners can be put in from the corners of the product or from the hinges, which will evenly distribute the load over the entire door area. The main thing is that the stiffeners do not interfere with the insertion of the lock, the installation of the handle and the peephole. The stiffeners must ensure the strength of the finished product, their number is also chosen at your own discretion.

Materials and tool kit

The necessary tools for assembling an iron door with your own hands include:

Electric drill;
Screwdriver;
Bulgarian, equipped with a cutting disc for metal;
clamps;
A set of files, a grinder;
A set of measuring tools.

Materials for the manufacture of a standard design include:

Steel sheet (2 - 3 mm thick with a dimension of 100 x 200 cm);
Metal corners for the frame (3.2 x 3.2 cm 6 p.m.);
Profile pipe for the frame and stiffeners (5x 2.5 cm 9 p.m.);
Canopies for doors;
Reinforcement plates for fastening the door frame to the wall (40 x 4 cm, thickness of which is 2 - 3 mm, in the amount of 4 pcs.);
Door fittings (locks, handles);
Anti-corrosion protective compounds, paint;
Mounting foam, anchor bolts.

The range of door fittings and locks is quite diverse, the choice depends solely on personal preferences. But the most popular mechanisms are locks with crossbars on three sides. Such products are much more difficult to install, but their protective functions are much higher.

If the iron door is intended for utility rooms, you can apply a more simplified and cost-effective option in financial terms: the reinforcing bar will perform the function of a stiffener.

Assembly steps

The process of assembling a metal structure consists of the following steps.

collection box

Frame parts are cut from a profile pipe and laid in the form of a rectangle on the welding table. Once again, all dimensions are checked, including diagonally. The control measurement will allow you to set the angles clearly at 90 degrees. A correctly adjusted design is tack welded.

After completion of welding work, it is necessary to check the perpendicularity of the sides and measure the distance between opposite pairs of corners. Compare source data.

If everything worked out correctly, you can proceed to the final welding work. Upon completion, the seams must be sanded. Then reinforcing plates are welded to the door frame.

Door leaf assembly

To assemble the canvas, it is necessary to measure the inside of the door frame. On each side we retreat 7 cm - these are the dimensions of the future structure.

From the metal corners, the blanks necessary for the length are cut and pre-treated to eliminate burrs. The prepared corners must be laid inside the structure to form a rectangle. After that, control and measuring actions are performed.

If there are any nuances, they must be eliminated and fit all the details in size. Docking points are welded tightly.

The next step is to cut the material for the stiffeners, they are welded tightly to the door frame. It is important to take into account all the places indicated in the project for installing the lock and related fittings.

The fabrication of the blade begins with the laying of the steel sheet on the welding table or gantry. A finished frame is laid on top of the sheet and a contour is drawn according to the dimensions specified in the project, while from the outer edges of the frame it is necessary to indent 10 cm.

According to the outlined contour, a steel sheet is cut out, the cut sections must be polished. The prepared canvas is mounted to the frame using a welding machine.

An important point: in order to prevent distortion, welding cannot be done with a continuous seam.

The best option for a welding seam is 30 mm pieces with an intermediate distance of 15 - 20 mm. To avoid subsequent hidden defects, the product must periodically cool down during operation, otherwise it may need to be repaired in the near future.

Having finished with the outside of the door, the canvas must be turned over and the door frame laid on top.

For the convenience of fitting the box to the frame, you can use linings, the thickness of which is from 2 to 5 mm, they are laid around the entire perimeter of the structure. In the resulting space, a sealing tape will be installed in the future to improve the soundproofing qualities of the door.

When the door leaf is completely ready, special cuts are made to install the internal lock and peephole, a hole is drilled for the door handle. The edges of the holes must be sanded.
An important point: the size of the hole for the lock at the same time must allow the installation of the lock without play and provide free access to it in case of repair work.

For a padlock, special pads must be provided.

Installation of door hinges

The upper canopies, equipped with grooves, are attached to the door frame, and their lower parts with pins are welded to the door frame. Docking seams must be polished.

The assembled metal structure must first be cleaned of foreign particles (dust, chips) and treated with an anti-corrosion compound. The final chord is either tinting or decorative door trim.

In order to understand in more detail and clearly how iron doors are assembled with your own hands, it is recommended that you first study the videos that clearly show the whole process from A to Z.

Assembly work on the installation of the door

A box is placed in the doorway and the structure is adjusted relative to the opening, all actions are carried out using a plumb line or building level.

Installation work on the installation of the door frame takes place exclusively with its geometrically verified location. Anchor bolts are used to fix the steel hinges to the wall. After that, you can hang the door leaf on the awnings.

Checking the correct installation: the iron door should both open and close freely, and the hinges should work smoothly and without undue effort.

Installing the lock and door handle

After installing the lock, the end sides of the crossbars must be rubbed with chalk and make marks on the door frame with them. In the marked places, holes are cut out - grooves for the crossbars.

If there is a need for additional protection of the lock, a corner of the required length should be welded to the door leaf in those areas where the crossbars come out. Another way is to strengthen the door leaf in the place where the lock is mounted. For this, a 6 mm thick steel plate is welded on the inside. At this stage, it is recommended to adjust the operation of the locking mechanism and take care of the tight fit of the door to the frame.

After studying the detailed manufacturing instructions, you can understand how to properly make a metal structure. It is quite possible to assemble an iron door with your own hands at home, the main thing is to arm yourself with the necessary material and tools.

A do-it-yourself metal door often surpasses many factory samples both in quality and reliability. After all, it is not for nothing that they say that a house is a small fortress, and the front door is a fortress gate. And it's hard to add anything to that. After all, if entrance doors are ordered on the market or in a supermarket, this is not yet a guarantee that the doors are of high quality and reliable. On the other hand, often the situation associated with the need to weld and put a temporary structure for the period of repair makes the idea of doing everything yourself quite real and relatively cheap.

Do-it-yourself metal door - from idea to practical implementation

Conventionally, the independent embodiment of the idea of \u200b\u200bfolding a real metal front door from sets of metal pipes, plates and corners does not require much experience in locksmith work. True, you must immediately admit that it will be difficult to assemble a metal door with your own hands. But with a thoughtful organization of work and the availability of a tool, many mistakes can not only be avoided, but also corrected in time.

First of all, you need to determine what kind of structure it will be:

light temporary construction for the period until a real armored door is purchased;
a structure that is planned to be built for a certain time as an entrance door to the corridor from the landing;
a normal front door to an apartment or house with a heater and a reliable lock;
a monumental building for centuries with a firm belief that the door will protect against any vandals.

Based on this, the forces, time, and necessary materials are calculated. The whole process of work is planned from taking measurements to installing the outer and inner door trim. Conventionally, a do-it-yourself door from a profile pipe is created in several stages:

the initial stage - taking measurements, preparing a drawing, selecting and ordering materials, preparing a tool;
the stage of working out individual nodes and connections, preparing a slipway or assembly table for work;
creation of a door block, welding of doors, fitting, installation of locking devices, installation of a metal sheet;
installation of a door in a doorway, fixing, finishing;
installation of sheathing and internal filler, adjustment of systems.

This scheme of work, although it contains a large number of points, but with a phased implementation, their excellent result will be guaranteed.

Preparatory stage - how to get started

It is not difficult to guess that a do-it-yourself iron door is created from metal pipes, corners, channels and sheet metal. But it is worth starting work with the organization of the workplace and the selection of a tool for work. At the same time, it is worth remembering that there is no such thing as a small tool. Having always learned to work with one tool, it turns out that it is more convenient to use several more tools for work. So for normal operation you need to prepare:

metal ruler, scriber, tape measure, metal square, crayons;
grinder with a set of cutting, cleaning and grinding abrasive wheels;
with a set of drills for metal and a center punch;
a welding machine, here it is preferable to choose an inverter one, today it is the best choice for beginners;
hammers of different weights;
files for metal - triangular, round, square, flat;
magnetic holders - multi-profile, with a mandatory angle of 90 degrees;
clamps, clips, clamps;
be sure to wear a welder's mask and leggings for working with hot metal.

The next point is the organization of the workplace, because before you weld the metal door yourself, you need to at least prepare a platform for laying out all the elements for fitting. It is ideal to have an assembly table or workbench for this, but you can first prepare a simple flat area on concrete or OSB.

A do-it-yourself metal door being built will require the following materials:

metal profile 20x40 mm - 22-24 linear meters;
sheet metal - 1x2 meters with a thickness of 2.5-2.8 mm;
hinges for fastening the door with bearings;
lock with overhead handles;
to fill the internal volume;
insulation and material for the outer and inner door trim.

Marking and preparing parts for assembly

At the stage of preparation of parts, the design of metal doors, the drawing of which is drawn on a scale, is drawn in the form of separate drawings - the study concerns how the parts will be attached and what the sequence of work will be. Detailing drawings makes it possible to minimize errors and waste when cutting metal.

When transferring drawings to metal, you must already clearly understand how a metal door is arranged, which elements require special accuracy, and for which it is necessary to make a gap of 1-2 mm. For a door frame, it is important that all parts are manufactured with the least deviations, especially if the profile pipe is butt-welded along 45-degree cuts.

The first step is preparing the door frame. Tolerances on the outer part should be no more than 1 cm in relation to the doorway. But the inner part must be perfect in all planes.

A do-it-yourself metal door, the drawings of which are developed taking into account the installation of safe locks with fixation at several points of the block, must be reinforced with an internal frame made of a profile pipe or corner.

In the process of laying out the details of the door block on the mounting table, the installation location is determined:

anchor bolts for fastening the block to the wall;
door hinges;
lock holes and fixation of the safe mechanism;

Even before welding the hinges to the metal door and connecting the block into a single structure, it is recommended to drill the necessary holes in the profile, and only after that proceed with the final assembly.

Assembly of the door block

When creating a metal door with your own hands, assembling the door block and the frame of the door itself have a lot in common. In both cases, this is an assembly of simple rectangles. Assembly technology using welding of joints of profile pipes at an angle of 45 degrees provides for:

preparation of a profile with pre-cut corners;
laying out all the details in one plane;
checking the inner corners of the door block;
with the help of several touches of the electrode, the structure is literally caught in one piece;
using a square, the correctness of right angles is checked, and internal diagonals are measured with a tape measure;
the entire structure is welded with a structural seam.

Before welding a door from a profile pipe, a ready-made door block is tried on at the opening site. Further, with the help of the cleaning and grinding wheels of the grinder, the influxes are removed and beautiful even seams are formed.

Assembling the door frame

Do-it-yourself front door made of metal is welded using the same technology as the door block, with the only difference being that its dimensions should be as accurate as possible from the outside of the structure.

In fact, the door block in this case can be used as a template for laying out parts and fixing the frame before welding. The first step during assembly is welding door hinges. The details are adjusted so that the gap between the block and the door itself is 2-3 mm from above, but from below the gap needs to be made larger - up to 3-5 mm. When used in the design of simple garage hinges, they must be welded on top of the frame and block. For flush-mounted hinges, additional space must be provided in the door unit. To do this, it makes sense to make the side of the fastening of the loops from a pipe of a larger section. A bottom gap of 5-7 mm between the door and the block is needed because the armored door is welded from 3-4 mm metal with your own hands, and the weight of the door eventually makes the working out in the hinges, gradually lowering the door.

After welding the hinges and the guide, they begin to weld the frame of the door itself. The door block is placed horizontally, on a flat surface. Using the level, its position is checked. Pipes cut to size with wooden planks are laid out level inside the block. The gaps between the door frame and the block are installed using wooden wedges or plastic crosses for mounting tiles.

Further, as with the block, temporary fixation is carried out with separate points. After checking the angles and diagonals, the final welding of all elements into one. After welding the door frame, the entire structure is lifted and checked in a vertical position. If the door opens and closes easily, without touching the block, you can proceed with the installation of internal spacers and locks.

When forming the frame, all elements must be fixed in the same plane. Metal during welding tends to deform. As a result, do-it-yourself home-made metal doors turn out to be curved.

Installation of the lock and locking fittings

In the question of how to weld a metal door with your own hands, there can be no trifles. Especially when it comes to security. Installation of the lock and safe hickeys must be carried out in the process of manufacturing the door frame.

Until the frame is sheathed with a metal sheet, it is convenient to make holes in it and install a lock. When placing the lock, it must be borne in mind that the armored door, however, like any other, can be lowered during operation. This means that the locking mechanism should also be placed so that when the door is lowered, it cannot jam.

The gap between the lower part of the lock tongue and the lower part of the hole in the block must be no less than the gap between the door and the threshold of the block. When marking the mounting hole on the door frame, this fact must be taken into account. Alternatively, you can cut an opening in the door frame to fit the lock mounting plate. Then, just make a mounting plate from a metal strip and weld it into the case from the inside.

The second installation option involves making a slot in the door frame pipe and processing it with a file to the desired size. True, while the lock can interfere with the closing of the door. It simply will not allow the door to close if the gap between the frame and the block is less than 4 mm.

Metal sheet installation

The final stage in the assembly of the metal structure of the door is the installation of a dense door on the frame. Sheet marking is carried out last, when the whole structure is ready.

Before you weld a metal door with your own hands into the final design, it is recommended to attach a block to the sheet. Circle it with chalk to visualize how much metal and from which side you need to remove.

External loops when installing the sheet must also be outlined. Since in the sheet it will be necessary to specially cut openings for them.

Having adjusted the sheet to size, it is installed on the mounting table and the door frame is placed on top. Welding is carried out with reverse polarity, the fact is that when using thin metal, it simply begins to deform or at the welding points, a burn is formed - a hole in the thin metal. If the polarity is reversed on an inverter device, the risk will be much less.

Welding of the sheet and frame is carried out with thin electrodes with a diameter of 2 or 2.5 mm. Never use electrodes with a diameter of 4 or 5 mm. Welding is carried out in one direction - gradually pressing the sheet to the frame. The length of the weld should be no more than 1.5-2 cm. In this case, the distance between the seams should be 5-6 cm. When welding a sheet and a pipe, welding is done on both sides of the pipe in a checkerboard pattern.

You can learn more about the order of work and work on individual elements by typing in a search engine - how to make an iron door with your own hands.