How to make a beautiful gate. Do-it-yourself swing gates: a phased manufacturing process. How to make a gate with your own hands - installation nuances

When erecting fences around your land or when building a garage, the question will definitely arise how to make a gate with your own hands. Before purchasing materials and getting down to work, it is necessary to decide which of the existing types of gates is best suited for installation in a particular case. Don't miscalculate in in all the nuances in advance, and choosing not the best design, you can doom yourself to a completely unnecessary laborious process of clearing the territory for their installation.

That is why you need to start by studying the information and features of their design.

Today, there are three main types of gates - these are retractable, swing and up-and-over. All of them seriously differ from each other constructively, so it is worth considering each type separately.

swing gate

Swing gates with a gate built into them or installed next to them are a traditional scheme that is most often used in private homes. It is based on pillars, two of which are set to the width of the gate, and the third, if necessary, determines the width of the gate if it is arranged next to the gate.

Gate leaves and wickets in this design are mounted on hinges welded to the support posts. They can be fixed to the outside of the supports or the inside. It will depend on this and on the hinge system in which direction the gate leaves will open - inward or outward.

Swing gate leaves are most often metal frames welded from a corner or a profile pipe, which can then be sheathed with different materials - thin metal sheets, corrugated board or wood.

The hinged version of the gate can also be made entirely of wood. In this case, boards are fixed to a reinforced frame made of timber, located on the inside of the wings.

In the manufacture of sashes, it is important to remember that they should not be too heavy, so as not to put a large load on the supporting posts and hinges. The nodes and details of the suspension themselves in size and strength must correspond to the weight of the valves.

A closing device is installed on the gate leaf - it can be a deadbolt or hinges for a lock, and sometimes a powerful latch. When closing the gate, the leaves in the lower part, in the middle of the entrance width, rest against the installed limiter, and when they are wide open, they can be fixed with spring clips.

The disadvantages of this design include the possible tilt of the supporting pillars and sagging of the wings, but this can only happen if the installation technology is violated or the weight from the leaves is incorrectly calculated. Therefore, it is necessary to properly deepen the foundation of the supports, not to use too heavy material for the canvases and to install the hinges corresponding to them in size.

The advantage of swing gates can be called the relative compactness of their placement. The design does not require clearing additional space along the fence, as it will be necessary to do for other types.

Swing gate installation

If swing gates are of moderate weight, for example, if they are made of corrugated board, then metal poles made of pipes with a diameter of 80 ÷ 100 mm or a profiled pipe with the same side size of its square section are well suited for them. Such supports will quite cope with their task. However, more massive pillars will do if they are easier to find.

Pillars-supports for gates are installed in two ways - by hammering and concreting.

• Pillars are usually hammered to a depth of 1.2–1.3 m. This method has many advantages, the main of which are sufficient reliability and speed of work.

Installation is as follows:

- a hole of the required diameter is drilled, approximately half the planned depth of the pillars.

- now the pillars must be fixed to or to stationary buildings located in the yard;

- after that, loops are welded to the posts, to the places previously marked by level;

- the assembled sashes are hung on the welded hinges, the correctness of their convergence in the center is checked.

• Concreting of pillars for installing gates gives increased rigidity and stability of the structure. Such supports will be required for wide or heavy sashes.

This method of installation is carried out without reinforcement or with the use of a reinforcing cup. Work is carried out in stages:

- first, a hole is drilled with a diameter of not less than 200-250 mm and a depth of 1.5-1.9 m. The exact size of the hole will depend on the section of the post.

- layers of sand and gravel are poured into the bottom of the pit and carefully compacted. Each of the layers should be about 100 mm;

- then a pole is installed in the pit, on a sand and gravel cushion;

- concrete is poured around it, and until the mortar has hardened, the column is set strictly vertically, fixed in this position with the help of props.

• If a reinforcing structure is used to fix the post, then the installation is carried out in the same way as without reinforcement, until the cushion is rammed for the installation of the post.

On the pillow, in the drilled hole, the so-called reinforcing glass is first laid, and a pole is inserted into it. Then concrete is poured into the hole. In this case, supports for the pole may not even be needed, since the reinforcing structure will hold it.

After the concrete has completely hardened and gained due strength, massive loops are marked and welded on the pillars. We must not forget about leaving gaps that will allow the doors to open and close freely, even with a possible slight tilt of the pillars due to the movement of the ground during snowmelt or long rains.

To avoid such deformations of the structure, it is possible to additionally fasten the pillars together with a beam welded to the lower parts of the pillars (it can be sunk into the ground). The frame will be even more rigid if equip it with an upper jumper, but in this case it will restrict the passage for trucks or a minibus.

Video: device and installation procedure for swing gates

Swing gate prices

swing gate

sliding gate

Sliding gates are divided into several subspecies, and from them you can choose the one suitable for certain conditions. But almost each of them will require free space along. Therefore, you may have to work extra hard to make room for the free movement of the movable sash when it is opened.

Sliding gates are cantilevered, suspended and retractable, which run along a rail or other metal profile (channel, I-beam, etc.).

Video: types of sliding gates

1. The hanging version is not very popular for installation in the private sector, since the entrance height is limited by the profile installed on top, on which the door leaf is suspended and moves along it.

2. Sliding gates that run along a rail installed in the opening and along the wall are also not a very popular option, especially in snowy and cold regions. The gate will move freely along the rail if it is cleared of ice and various debris, but in winter, with snow drifts or icing, the leaf will not be able to open and close without prior clearing. This version of the gate is rather good for the southern regions, where snow does not lie for a long time and there are no severe frosts.

This is the only, but very important design flaw. Otherwise, it is very convenient in that it does not require a vast territory for opening and closing.

On the rack from the side into which the sash will open, rollers and brackets holding the canvas are installed in the upper part.

Rollers are also installed at the bottom of the mobile gate leaf, along which it moves along a rail or profile mounted on the surface of the earth.

3. Console - the most convenient option of all types of sliding gates, especially since they have several different designs, from which you can choose the best one.

Such gates are rigidly fixed on the beam, which, moving in the cantilever assembly, moves the leaf leaf along with it.

Cantilever gates are more complex in design, but they work best in snowy winters, since their leaf never touches the ground. Another positive quality of this species can be considered that it does not have a height limiter, i.e. The area can be accessed by both cars and trucks. In the design of cantilever gates, powerful pillars-supports are installed not on two sides, but only on one side - it is in this direction that the sash will move when the passage is opened.

The cantilever beam can be located in three different positions - top, middle and bottom.

• by the most widespread an option is the location of the movable beam in the middle of the door leaf. Due to its location, it enhances the rigidity of the structure. The console mechanism with guide rollers is located at a sufficient height so that it is not covered with snow, which means that the gate will be in working condition at any time of the year.

• Cantilever gates with a movable beam installed at the bottom of the leaf are more vulnerable in winter and will require constant maintenance in the form of clearing from snow drifts and icing. Otherwise, this is also a convenient option, since the canvas does not come into contact with the ground, and it does not need to install a guide rail for it.

• In the third case, the beam passes along the upper part of the canvas and will always be safe from snow blockages, water, and debris. But this version of the cantilever gate requires a particularly rigid reinforcement of the frame and leaf, otherwise it may deform in the lower part.

Cantilever gates are quite affordable for manufacturing on their own, but only if the owner has certain skills in such work. understands assembly drawings, has basic knowledge in physics and mechanics. With maximum effort, you can make such a gate that will be impossible to distinguish from factory products.

Any cantilever gate can be opened if equipped with an electric drive and an electronic remote control system. This will allow the owner, without leaving the car, using the key fob to open the passage.

Installation of sliding cantilever gates

Installing sliding or sliding gates is a much more complex undertaking than installing a swing version.

On the sides of the passage, when arranging this type of gate, as a rule, brick pillars are installed on which rollers, supporting brackets and catchers will be mounted.

The main load always falls on the channel, which is installed on on a securely arranged foundation on the side of the gate where the leaf will be attached (if the console is located at the bottom) or on metal supports if the console is located in the center of the dense gate or at the top.

• The foundation for the installation of the channel can be solid or consist of 2-3 pillars. The second option is more economical. A pit is dug for the foundation - it can consist of one pit or two or three for a columnar type. The depth should be from 1.2 to 1.5 m, width - 40 ÷ 50 cm, and length - at least 1.5 m.
• Further, two pillows of sand and gravel are arranged in the pit, each 10 cm thick.
• Then, a formwork is installed in the pit and a waterproofing material is laid in it - roofing material or a dense plastic film.
• A reinforcing structure is fixed in the formwork, and then a ready-made concrete solution is poured with a strength grade of at least M-300
• A channel with fittings welded to its shelves is installed over the filled surface. The channel is pressed into the concrete with the shelves down until they are completely immersed. After the final hardening of the concrete, a reliable metal platform should be obtained. The gate can be installed no earlier than a month after pouring the foundation.
• The supporting frame is being made. For it, you need a metal corner or a square pipe with a cross section of 60 × 40 mm.
• Additional cross members are welded to the frame of the carcass, giving the required rigidity to the structure. At the location of the console (in this case, from below), a guide cantilever beam must be welded to the frame, with the help of which the gate will move along the rollers.
• Welded seams of the structure must be carefully cleaned of slag. The entire supporting frame must be primed and covered with paint for metal, which will keep it from corrosion.
• It is fixed, sheet metal or boards, depending on the chosen design of the door leaf.
• When the structure is ready, and the foundation with the installed cantilever channel has fully gained strength, you can proceed to the installation of the components and parts necessary to move the gate.

• Cantilever blocks equipped with rollers are installed on the finished foundation with a channel.
• Then the gates are rolled up on them, aligned strictly according to the level, and after that the blocks are welded to the channel.
• Then, the top and end rollers are installed and fixed.
• The lower and upper catchers are fixed to the opposite support post. They must be accurately calculated according to the location of the rolling rollers installed on the door leaf.
• Further, if planned, an electric drive is installed, but the gate may well open manually.

Video instruction for installation of cantilever sliding gates

As mentioned above, the cantilever beam can be installed not only from below, but also in the middle or at the top of the door leaf.

In the manufacture and assembly of this type of gate, accurate calculation of all parameters and careful observance of dimensions are especially important, since any error can cause deformation of the structure.

sliding gate prices

Sliding gates

Overhead gate

This type of gate is well suited for equipping a garage with them. They are not suitable for driving into the yard, as they will limit the height. Such gates should be easy to close and open by lifting and sliding the leaf to a horizontal position up, under the garage ceiling.

During opening or closing, the lower part of the sash protrudes slightly forward, outside the garage, That's why By installing a similar type of gate, you need to calculate how close you can fit the car so that it does not interfere with the opening process.

The canvas is made of a metal frame, which is sheathed, most often, with metal sheets, wood or composite impact-resistant materials. The positive qualities of this type of gate are reliability and compactness in the open position, in contrast to options with two swing leaves.

To make this design yourself, you must have drawings with all the necessary parameters.

• To install the gate, you will need to make not only a frame for closing the passage, but also another one on which the gate will be mounted. Sometimes it is framed by the entrance to the garage, but more often additional guides are added, along which, when the gate is opened, rollers mounted on the canvas will roll. They also perform the function of a device that supports the canvas from above in an open position.

• In this case, inside the garage, the frame will be L-shaped on both sides of the entrance. Its dimensions must provide the necessary space for the passage of the door leaf between the ceiling and additional guides.
• On the canvas on both sides, top and bottom, rollers are installed that will walk along the guides when moving the gate.
• On both sides to the frame installed in the opening, two levers are mounted that will lift the canvas when opened. Shock absorbers are required - they will soften the blow when closing. The levers are connected to springs that are adjusted to the desired force - they should not be overtightened or loose, but at the same time, the sash should tightly close the entrance opening.

• The supporting stationary frame must be securely fastened to the opening with anchors, as it will be subjected to significant stress all the time.
• Further, when the entire structure is mounted, it is possible to equip the gate with fittings and fix additional elements.

If you plan to install an electric drive, then this process is carried out last, and it is better to entrust this work to specialists. An electric opening system is a rather expensive pleasure, so it’s better not to risk it if you don’t have the skill in installing and debugging such equipment.

Video: an example of hand-made up-and-over doors

Prices for up-and-over gates

Overhead gate

Having carefully studied the instructions and drawings, having prepared all the necessary materials, and also having sufficiently high work skills, you can assemble any design from the presented ones yourself. But it is better if the work is done together with a knowledgeable master - then it will go much faster and better.

A good, reliable fence with beautiful gates is not only the protection of a suburban area from uninvited guests, but also gives a clear idea of ​​its boundaries. To make the fence more convenient and practical, its gates are equipped with devices that simplify their opening and make this process automatic. One of the most popular designs is a system with a mechanism that allows you to move the fence sheet to the side. Today, many companies are engaged in the installation of sliding gates, but we offer to make them yourself.

The device and principle of operation of sliding gates

Depending on the type and location of the supporting surface, sliding gates are divided into rail and roller gates, but since the latter have a more reliable design, systems with a lower rail guide are practically not used today. As for the mechanism with support rollers, it is not difficult to assemble it yourself, since all components can be purchased from a distribution network or made independently.

Previously popular sliding gates with a bottom guide rail have now been superseded by a more reliable design with support rollers.

These gates can be built in two ways:

• monoscreen,
• double synchronous design.

A monoscreen is a construction of one sash, which rests on roller guides (trolleys or cantilever supports) installed on the side of the opening. On them, the gates move in one direction, opening a place for the passage of the car. Such a system does not require an upper constriction between the posts and is used with a web height of not more than 2 meters. The simplicity and convenience of a monoscreen contribute to its popularity for arranging private plots, open areas and courtyards.

Scheme of roller sliding gates

Double synchronous gates have a pair of wings that move in opposite directions. Unlike a monoscreen, the design has two supporting foundations and an upper beam, which serves as a guide for additional rollers. The cantilever system is able to withstand the increased weight of the canvas, therefore it is used for gates with a height of more than 2 meters. It is a good option for equipping garages for trucks and high hangars, various warehouses, industrial facilities, etc.

Since for a private courtyard the need to install high gates occurs infrequently, we will further consider single systems. Among other things, such sliding gates have a simplified design, so they are more suitable for DIY.

Roller carriages are the main supporting elements of the structure

In addition to the guide and roller bearings (cantilever blocks or trolleys), several other elements ensure the performance of the structure.

1. Lower and upper catcher. They are U-shaped brackets installed on the edges of the catching pole (supports, racks) and designed to fix the gate in the closed state. The upper catcher prevents the sash from “falling over” to the side, while the lower latch, in addition to this function, also relieves the load on the rollers and the guide.

   The catchers are made of thick metal, because the reliability of fixing the gate in the closed position depends on them.

2. Supporting tire or bracket (roller limiter). It is installed along the upper edge of the main rack and serves for additional fixation of the canvas.

   Support bracket with rollers

3. Support roller. It is attached to the front end of the guide and serves as a plug, damper and support element. When the sash enters the lower catcher, it softens the blow and takes on part of the weight of the structure.

   Support roller with rubber damping pad

In addition, some parts of the system are equipped with plugs that prevent snow from accumulating and serve as decorative elements.

Structural design features

Before proceeding with the purchase of materials, you should draw up at least a small drawing or sketch indicating the main dimensions and calculating the required material.

Canvas dimensions

One of the main issues in the design of the gate is to determine the width and other dimensions of the structure. First of all, you should determine the distance between the gate posts, since all further calculations depend on this value. This takes into account:

• the size of the vehicles that will enter the site;
• car entry angle;
• free gap between the overall width of the car and the gate supports, which should be 0.3–0.5 m on each side.

For middle-class cars, a gate 2.5–3 m wide will suffice, while a truck or tractor requires an opening of at least 3.5 meters.

The design and dimensions of the sliding gate leaf with a frame for a metal profile

If movement perpendicular to the fence line is difficult and entry at an angle is required, then this value must be increased by another 1.5 times. But we must also take into account the fact that the car for any reason (slippery surface, inexperienced driver, improperly secured load) can move or lean to the side. Therefore, the gate width of about 4.5 m can be considered optimal - this will be enough for any situation.

When calculating the width of the canvas, 20 cm are added to the size of the opening. This must be done so that when the gate is closed from the side of the support rollers, the yard is not visible through the gap. If this possibility was not taken into account in the manufacture of the sash, then you can get out of the situation by slightly moving the pillars towards each other. When determining the height of the gate, many believe that it should be the same as that of the fence, but usually the canvas is made a little smaller. This is due to the fact that the lower edge of the fence is installed with a minimum clearance from the level of the site, while the leaf does not touch the ground and is installed with a clearance of about 10 cm.

Drawing of sliding gate leaf without frame for filling profile

In fact, the distance between the lower rail and the level of the yard is adjusted using the support platforms, which set the height of the roller carts. Depending on their position, the sashes rise above the site to a height of 10 to 15 cm.

In addition, the height of the canvas is affected by the dimensions of the frame of its frame and the width of the lower guide. So that in the end the gate is on the same level with the fence, when designing, it is necessary to take into account all these nuances and make an accurate calculation.

Drawings and diagrams

The basis of the design of sliding gates is a guide that moves along the cantilever blocks.

So that the support rollers do not interfere with the passage, they are shifted beyond the side clearance. At the same time, the sash is lengthened due to a special slope that acts as a counterweight. It is possible to avoid skew when closing sliding gates if the length of the slope is equal to ½ of the leaf width.

The entire load during the operation of the mechanism is taken up by roller carts, therefore, their installation requires a strong, reliable base. The foundation is made in the form of a massive reinforced concrete structure with an upper laying platform made of a wide metal channel. In the future, it will be convenient to use it not only for mounting roller bearings, but also for mounting an automation drive.

The retractable type has a very simple design. Understanding the mechanism of work is enough to independently draw up the necessary sketches and make calculations. Nevertheless, we bring to your attention diagrams and drawings of structures that will serve as visual aids and help in the work. Among other things, one of the finished projects can be taken as a basis for the manufacture of sliding gates with your own hands.

Drawings for manufacturing

Assembly diagram for the manufacture of sliding gates Roller bearing drawing Drawing of a blade with a guide rail Support bracket drawing Mounting diagram of the laying platform Structural scheme of sliding gates End roller drawing Sliding Gate Structural Details Specification Drawing guide with roller assembly

What you need for a do-it-yourself construction

Starting the construction of the gate, you must have a set of components (accessories), which can be purchased as a kit or made independently. As for the tools, no specific devices are needed - everything you need can be found even from a novice home master.

Selection of parts for the rollback mechanism

There are several options for accessories for sliding gates, depending on the width of the opening and the weight load:

• for gates weighing up to 400 kg and a width of not more than 4 m;
• for canvases weighing up to 600 kg and a width of not more than 6 m;
• for sashes weighing from 600 kg and a width of 6 m and more.

When choosing one or another kit for your needs, you should definitely take into account the filling material of the leaf, because it has a significant impact on the weight of the sash.

The creation kit consists of the following parts:

• bottom guide;
• support bracket with rollers;
• roller support - 2 pcs.;
• supporting stand of the roller platform - 2 pcs.;
• support (end) roller;
• lower and upper catchers;
• plastic plugs.

The guide of the lower rollers must be rigid enough to retain its original shape and not deform under wind load. To ensure this condition, responsible manufacturers make the rail from high-quality structural steel with a thickness of at least 3.6 mm - this parameter should be guided by when choosing it.

Sliding gate hardware kit

Since the entire mass of the gate is held by roller carriages, their bearings must be of high quality, and the rolling surfaces themselves must have high hardness. On sale you can find cantilever blocks with plastic rollers that reduce the noise level when the gate moves. Keep in mind that these parts will need to be replaced after some time, as even the highest quality thermoplastics can't compare to case hardened steel. Before installation, it is recommended to open the bearings of the support rollers in order to check the amount of lubrication - it depends on whether the gate will creak when moving, and how long these parts will work without backlash and jamming.

The sash is fixed from above by a supporting bracket. To ensure the stability and reliability of the structure, its thickness must be at least 4 mm. As for the guides installed on it, rubber rollers have proven themselves best. The load on them is not so great, but the fact that they do not scratch the frame of the gate during operation has a positive effect on the aesthetics of the structure.

When choosing the bottom catcher, keep in mind that it works in tandem with the support roller. Be sure to check how freely the limit switch enters the latch. In addition, the end roller is designed to redistribute the load when the gate is closed, so the same requirements are imposed on it as on the main supporting elements of the system.

The metal plate from which the catchers are made must have a thickness of at least 4 mm, since the reliability of fixing the sash in the closed position depends on its quality. In addition, the strength of these parts must be ensured by the welding connection.

Any guide rail plugs will fit. The main thing is that they prevent the ingress of snow and perform a decorative function.

The choice of material for sewing depends entirely on personal preferences and financial capabilities, so you can use:

• corrugated board, which is lightweight and easy to install with rivets or self-tapping screws. Profile panels can be selected according to the thickness, color, depth and width of the wave, and their coating is able to protect the metal from corrosion for many years;
• steel sheets - selected by thickness and size. Most often used as a basis for forged elements of the gate;
• polycarbonate, with which the gate will be the lightest;
• picket fence or lining - they must be treated with antiseptic agents and coated with varnish or paint. Only in this case, you can count on the durability and aesthetic appearance of lumber;
• forging - can be used either alone or in combination with polycarbonate, lumber or steel sheets. Today, in the distribution network, you can buy individual forged elements, from which, with the help of welding, it is easy to build a real work of blacksmithing art;
• panel (chocolate) - to obtain it, metal sheets are stamped. On sale you can find "chocolates" of various sizes. They are attached to the frame by welding or rivets.

When using forging, steel sheets or panels for sheathing the leaf, a significant increase in the weight of the door should be taken into account when choosing roller bearings and other structural elements.

On sale you can find a panel of various sizes, which allows you to create gates of the original design

What tools and materials will be needed

The construction of sliding gates will require not only plumbing, but also concrete work, so you should prepare:

• shovel;
• crowbar or pickaxe;
• tamper;
• containers for bulk materials and concrete;
• welding machine;
• grinder (angle grinder or angle grinder);
• cutting and cleaning wheel for angle grinders;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• a set of open-end wrenches;
• roulette;
• scriber or pencil;
• compressor with a spray gun or brushes for painting.

If the sash is sheathed not with metal, but with wood, then you may need a circular or miter saw, planer, chisel and other carpentry tools.

For the manufacture of the door leaf, shaped steel pipes are best suited

In addition to components and trim elements, you will need a lot of other materials. So, to make a sliding gate for a 4-meter opening, you will need to bring to the site:

• at least 18 meters of a profile pipe 50x50 mm or 60x40 mm with a wall of 2 mm - for welding the frame frame;
• up to 20 linear meters of pipe 40x20x2 mm, which will be needed for the internal parts of the frame;
• channel No. 20 with a length of at least 2 m - for the construction of a mortgage support platform for roller guides;
  Instead of a channel, you can use two pieces of steel angle with a shelf 100 mm long, which are welded along the length. It is not recommended to install mortgages only under the roller bearing carriages, as well as to concrete the studs - in this case it will be difficult to set the rollers and adjust the automatic closing device (drive).
• thick sheet metal for flashings - mortgages, which are installed in the masonry during the construction of side supports (pillars);
• about 15 m of reinforcement or steel bar with a diameter of 10–12 mm, which will be needed to fix the channel and build the foundation;
• sand, crushed stone and cement for concrete preparation.

You should take care of the aesthetics of the structure in advance, so you will need paint and a primer to paint the frame or the entire canvas. Suitable for any alkyd enamel for outdoor use and a primer for metal surfaces.

Step-by-step installation of sliding gates

The correct approach to the manufacture of sliding gates will allow you to get a solid, reliable design and avoid errors in operation. Therefore, the whole process is best divided into several stages:

• construction of supporting pillars;
• arrangement of the foundation;
• production of canvas and individual structural elements;
• construction installation.

To be successful, everything must be done according to the work plan. Each step must be accompanied by the control of geometry and other technological parameters. Only in this case, you can count on the fact that even a child can open the gate.

Pole installation

The installation of support pillars is one of the most critical stages, since in the future they will be responsible for the stability of the entire structure. Racks can be made from various materials - oak timber, massive metal, brick or concrete. It is recommended to concrete pillars to a depth of at least 1 m, and in areas with a high level of groundwater, equip a common foundation for all structural elements of sliding gates.

Scheme of supporting structures of sliding gates

If metal pipes are used for the racks, then the installation of the catchers and the supporting rail does not cause difficulties - they can be fixed by welding. In the case when the pillars are made of stone or brick, mortgages must be installed in the masonry. These fasteners are metal platforms made of thick sheet steel, to which pieces of a metal bar or thick wire are welded. During the construction of the pillars, the flexible elements are laid in the seams, setting the flashings at the desired height.

So, for the installation of support posts, they dig a hole with a diameter of at least 0.5 m and a depth of more than 1 meter, into which a pole is installed. Next, expose it with a level and pour concrete. For reliability, several crossbars from pieces of angle, pipes, fittings, etc. can be welded to the lower part of the metal rack.

Foundation construction

Before proceeding with the installation work, it is necessary to mark the foundation of the support platform and prepare the foundation pit for its arrangement. For these purposes, 0.5 m recede from the plane of the fence - this will be the width of the trench. The foundation should be 20–30 cm longer than the counterweight of the sash.

If automation is used to open the gate, then even at the stage of installing the pillars and building the foundation, electrical cables are laid in the ground. To protect them, a corrugated plastic casing is used.

A channel up to 20 cm wide is used as a foundation. Its length is equal to half the width of the opening plus an allowance of 10–20 cm for the installation of roller bearing platforms. To ensure the solidity of the mortgage, it is reinforced with a reinforcement frame.

Drawing of the foundation of the supporting platform

The foundation is built like this:

• dig a trench 1–1.5 m deep. On sandy soils, as well as at a high level of groundwater, the bottom of the pit should be below the freezing point;
• rods are cut from a metal bar or reinforcement: long 1–1.5 m (along the depth of the trench) and short 0.2 m. The latter will need half as much - they will be used as jumpers;
• long pieces of reinforcement are welded to the side shelves of the channel at a distance of 30 cm from each other, obtaining a structure that looks like a bench with many legs;
• opposite bars are connected in pairs using 20 cm jumpers at a distance of 0.7–0.8 m from the channel;
• the mortgage structure is lowered into the trench, aligning the channel along the height of the site.
  

  The channel must be set strictly horizontally so that its upper plane coincides with the level of the carriageway. If tiles, concrete or asphalt pavement is still planned, then the increase in the height of the passage must be taken into account.

• install formwork and armored belt;
• concrete is poured and compacted thoroughly.

According to the technology, the foundation must stand for 28 days in order for the concrete to reach branded strength.

Arrangement of the foundation of the supporting platform

sash manufacturing

For the manufacture of the supporting frame of the door leaf, profiled metal pipes with a cross section of at least 50x50 mm are used. In order not to get a sash that was led by a "propeller", it is necessary to equip a platform with a strictly horizontal plane. To do this, choose a wide, flat place and, with small gaps, wooden slats or bars are laid out on the ground. Level control is carried out using a laser or bubble tool and a building cord.

It is convenient to use wooden props for welding the sliding gate leaf.

Welding of the web is carried out from the bottom up, laying individual structural elements on the prepared plane.

1. An outer frame is made, which is the main frame of the sash. To do this, a frame pipe with a section of 50x50 mm or 60x40 mm is welded to the guide rail. After that, vertical pipes are attached to its upper plane, the upper crossbar and slope are mounted. The welding seam can be made with tacks 2 cm long every 0.5–0.6 m.
   The frame is welded in a checkerboard pattern. This will prevent overheating of individual sections and violation of the flatness of the structure.
2. The elements of the filling frame are welded to the base of the frame, which will be needed to fix the corrugated board and will make the structure more rigid. Internal bulkheads are made of pipes 40x20 mm.
3. The welding points are cleaned with an angle grinder, after which the structure is coated with a primer.
4. Using a spray gun, two or three layers of alkyd paint are applied.
5. After the protective layer has dried, the canvas is sheathed with corrugated board. For its fastening, self-tapping screws or rivets are used, holes for which are drilled with an electric drill.

The frame, which will be sheathed with a profiled sheet, wood or polycarbonate, must be painted before filling

If steel sheets or forging are used as filling, then they are welded at the frame construction stage, after which they are cleaned and only after that the gate is prepared for painting.

Instructions for assembling the structure

1. Installation of sliding gates begins with markings. In order to indicate the trajectory of their movement, a cord must be pulled along the roadway. The gap between it and the road surface should be 150–200 mm, and the distance to the support post should be 70 mm (with a recommended web thickness of up to 70 mm). In the future, the cord will serve as an axial line when installing cantilever supports
2. Determine the installation location of the front roller trolley. The principle here is simple - the further the supports are placed from each other, the less the load on the bearings will be. Nevertheless, the set of support rollers closest to the roadway is installed not at the extreme dimension of the pole, but at a distance of 15 cm towards the rollback. This is done so that the rolling roller sticking out of the sash does not protrude onto the roadway. To determine the extreme position of the rear cantilever support, subtract 100 mm from the total length of the blade (with counterweight). The resulting value is set aside from the receiving post (on which the catchers will be mounted) - this point will be the outer boundary of the second cart.

   Determination of installation locations for roller bearings

3. The supporting platforms of the roller bearings are set at the points obtained and tacked by welding, after which the rollers are installed on the adjusting plates.

   Roller bearings are installed on the base plate by means of supporting platforms. This allows you to avoid overheating of the rollers during installation and to be able to set the guide "horizontally"

4. The door leaf is put in the wrong place, rolling the guide onto the rollers. They check the correct installation of the supports, after which the sash is removed, and the carts themselves are dismantled.
5. Adjustment plates are welded securely.

   Before welding the support platforms and installing the carts in place, the door leaf is removed

6. The roller bearings and the canvas are installed in place, after which the gate is fixed in the closed state.
7. The building level is set in the same plane with the guide, after which the gate is set “into the horizon” with the adjusting bolts of the supporting platforms.

   Proper mounting of the roller trolley (with support platform) will allow you to easily adjust the level of the guide beam

8. The knurling roller is installed inside the guide, after which it is fixed with bolts and, for reliability, is seized by welding.

   Mounting the knurling roller

9. Opposite the column closest to the roller carts, a roller limiter is installed on the upper edge of the web. The supporting rail is fixed by welding, after which the vertical installation of the gate is adjusted.

   The bracket of the supporting rail can be attached to the post by welding - a wide range of adjustment of each roller allows you to easily set the door leaf vertically

10. Install the bottom catcher. To mark the place of its installation, the gate is fixed in the closed position, the catcher bracket is brought under the support roller and pressed until it touches completely. The catcher is bolted so that in the future it is possible to adjust its position relative to the roller.

    If everything is done correctly and accurately, then the result should be something like this

    Video: how to install sliding gates with your own hands

    How to equip them with automation

    It is possible to install an automatic opening system on such gates only if they move easily and without jerks on the rollers. To do this, you need to purchase:

    • gear rack;
    • electric drive;
    • signal light;
    • limit switches or photocells;
    • remote control;
    • Control block.

    Today there is no need to buy components separately - you can find ready-made automation kits on sale. To install the system, you will need the same tools that were used in the manufacture and installation of the gate.

    Sliding gate automation kit

    The electric drive is attached to the same embedded channel as the roller bearings. The work is carried out in stages.

    
    

    For safety reasons, a signal lamp is installed on the extreme pole. After that, check the correctness of the electrical connections and turn on the electricity supply.

    As a sliding gate drive, you can use a screwdriver or any electric motor with a gearbox, and use an inexpensive car alarm for remote control.

    Video: sliding gates with a drive made from a screwdriver

    Although sliding gates require more financial investments than conventional ones, you can save the lion's share of the costs if you make them yourself. Ease of use and comfort provided by the remote control system are combined with high reliability and the ability to save space on the site. Not a bad argument for a modern and functional design, isn't it?

    Thanks to my versatile hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorite ones are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know a lot of nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at a technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

A garage is a building that receives special attention, especially in terms of burglary resistance. And such an element as a gate should have twice the strength and reliability, and of course, an attractive appearance. Traditionally, garage doors are a two-leaf hinged structure hung on a box. Making them with your own hands is not a problem if you have the skills to work with simple plumbing tools and a welding machine. This will be discussed in the article: options for swing gates, manufacturing technology and the nuances of the installation process.

Types of garage doors

In addition to the fact that swing garage doors are traditional and very reliable, they have other advantages.

1. The cost of construction is cheaper than all other models.
2. The swing modification can be insulated using various heat-insulating materials.
3. Can be installed in limited space.
4. They can open outside or inside the garage, depending on the requirements of the owner.
5. Possibility of installation of the electric motor for automatic opening.

The only big drawback is that free space is required to open the doors of the structure. This is sometimes problematic in winter when snow piles up in front of the garage. Therefore, you have to wave a shovel.

Minus swing gates - in front of them you have to clear the area from snow

In addition to swing gates, other varieties are also installed in garages.

folding

This is a sectional type of gate, the elements of which are installed vertically and connected to each other in a hinged way. The extreme sections are attached, like the swing ones, to the box with loops. Additional fastening - on the top or bottom rail. Sections are made from different materials, most often from aluminum alloys or wood.

Design advantages:

• unusual appearance,
• ease of opening and closing
• do not take up much space when open
• sections can be individually changed, repaired,
• low price.

Cons: rapid wear and low protective functions.

Folding gate

lifting and turning

Purely constructively, this is a one-piece shield that covers the entire entrance opening. To open, the gate is raised and rotated 90° so that it is at the top in a horizontal plane. For this, a system of levers, a gearbox and an electric motor are used.

Model pluses:

• high reliability,
• when open, the gate does not take up any space,
• are insulated,
• amenable to automation.

• high precision installation is required,
• the gate remains in the opening, reducing its height by 20-30 cm,
• it is not recommended to use them intensively.

Overhead gate

Lifting sectional

This is a construction of several sections arranged horizontally and interconnected by special loops. With the help of a lifting mechanism located on the ceiling, the gates are lifted along the guide profiles and positioned horizontally along the ceiling. Sections are mainly made of sandwich panels.

Model pluses:

• versatility in terms of opening dimensions,
• saving free space when opening,
• good resistance to deformation and mechanical stress,
• full automation,
• presentable appearance,
• high heat and sound insulation qualities,
• long term operation.

• high price,
• constant maintenance is required: lubrication of hinges and guides, checking electrics and automation,
• low burglary resistance.

Overhead sectional doors

Rolled

These garage doors got their name from the way they open. Purely constructively, these are several strips (lamellas) assembled into one canvas, which is twisted into a roll. Therefore, in addition to the leaf, the structure of the gate includes two guides that hold the structure in the opening, a shaft on which the lamellas are wound, and an electric drive.

Advantages:

• compactness,
• acceptable price,
• ease of installation,
• long term service
• presentable appearance,
• possibility of automation.

• almost zero burglary resistance,
• there is no way to conduct insulation, because there are always gaps between the lamellas,
• do not work well at low temperatures.

roller shutters

Rollback

In this design, there is one sash, which rests on a guide profile located on top, and rests against the rail from below. The device is opened by rolling to the side along the wall.

The advantages include:

• functionality does not depend on snowdrifts,
• does not take up space when opened,
• high burglary resistance,
• possibility of automation.

• rapid wear of rollers,
• the width of the wall along which the gate moves must be greater than the width of the sash.

Sliding gates

Do-it-yourself manufacturing technology for swing garage doors

So, swing gates for a garage are two leaves (often the same in width), which are hung on a U-shaped box through hinges. Therefore, when the task is set - to make a gate of this type, then several questions are solved:

• sash manufacturing,
• manufacture of a box (frame),
• installation of the last
• installation of shutters on the frame.

Before you start making swing gates, you need to decide on their size.

garage door dimensions

There are no strict size requirements. The main thing is that the car can freely enter the garage without hitting the gate. And this allows you to make any opening, the width and height of which is 30 cm more than the dimensions of the car on each side. But this is inconvenient, especially for novice drivers.

• height for cars - 2.0-2.2 m, for minibuses - 2.5 m;
• the optimal width is 2.5-3 m, the maximum is 5 m.

Standard swing gate sizes

Preparation for the manufacture of the gate

Required tools:

• welding machine and electrodes;
• grinder with cutting and grinding disc;
• tape measure, ruler and marker (chalk);
• level and angle.

Required materials. The outer side of the gate is a sheet steel sheet with a thickness of 3-4 mm or corrugated board with a thickness of at least 1.2 mm. If the first material is used in the design, then the entire connection process is carried out by electric welding. If the second, then fastening the corrugated board to the frame can be carried out with metal screws.

As a material for assembling the frame, you can use either a 63x63 mm corner or a 40x40 mm profiled pipe with a thickness of 2-3 mm. The second option is cheaper and easier to use.

Drawing of swing gates for a garage from a profile pipe

And the last element is the hinges, which are made of a steel bar with a diameter of at least 25 mm. There should be at least four loops, two for each leaf.

Now, as for the U-shaped box. It consists of two racks and a crossbar (crossbar). The former can be made from a 63x63 corner or a round pipe with a diameter of 80-100 mm, or a profiled pipe with a cross section of at least 80x60 mm. Crossbar from the same materials. If it is planned to build a two-story garage, then it is better to use channel No. 12 as a crossbar.

Assembly drawing of the gate

Manufacturing of sash frames

The first stage is cutting eight pieces of material prepared for frame assembly. Four of them should be equal to the height of the gate minus 1-2 cm, four to the width of the leaves, that is, half the width of the gate structure minus 2-3 cm. For example, if the total width of the gate is 3 m, then it is necessary to cut four elements by 1, 48 m

Setting the frame on blocks in a horizontal plane

An important point - the assembly of frames should be carried out on a horizontal plane. It is not necessary that it be a flat area, any type of stand is suitable, the upper ends of which are set in the same horizontal plane. To do this, you can use bricks or blocks. They are installed in the corners of a rectangle, the length of which is equal to the height of the leaf, the width is equal to the width of the gate section. Respectively cut segments are laid on them, and then they are checked with a level whether they lie on the horizon. Deviations are leveled by lining under blocks of thin boards, pebbles or sheet metal.

The laid segments are fixed to each other by spot welding with precise alignment of adjacent elements to each other at 90 °. For this, a building corner is used. This is an important point that determines the exact dimensions of the future gate structure, which will fit exactly into the box without distortions and large gaps.

Diagram of stiffeners

Two frames are formed, now it is necessary to increase the rigidity of the structure by installing additional elements: horizontal or vertical. If the gate is large, then both are used. Sometimes they are supplemented with oblique elements. As a material, a corner or a smaller profile pipe is used. For example, if the frames were assembled from a 40x40 mm pipe, then 40x20 mm can be used for reinforcement. Additional elements are evenly distributed relative to each other.

After assembling the frames, it is necessary to weld the joints on both sides and grind them from scale and metal smudges.

The rigidity of the frame structure is determined by additional elements installed vertically and horizontally

Connection of frame and steel sheet

From a sheet of iron for each sash, you need to cut a rectangular segment. There are certain requirements for their sizes:

• the length of the segments should be 3-4 cm more than the height of the gate opening;
• one of the rectangles in width should be 2 cm less than the width of the frame, and the second one should be larger by the same size.

For example, if the width of the wings is 1.5 m, the height is 2.5 m, then one sheet will be 1.52x2.54 in size, the other 1.48x2.54 mm.

Now, in height, two sheets are stacked on the frames so that their edges protrude beyond the frame structure by 2 cm on each side. The protrusions of the sheets will close the gap between the doors and the box. As for the width, from the side of the hinges, the sheets are laid flush with the profile pipe. In one sash, the sheet will protrude from the opposite side by 2 cm, in the other, on the contrary, its edge will not reach the edge of the frame. This is done so that when the gate is closed, the protruding leaf closes the gap between the leaves.

Attention! Sheets are welded to the frame pointwise from the edge to the center. After that, welding is carried out in small segments within 3-4 cm in increments of 10-15 cm.

The sheet is fastened to the frame with short seams.

Swing gate box assembly

The dimensions of the box are determined by the dimensions of the opening. At the same time, half a meter is added to the length of the support posts, with which the structure will be recessed into the prepared pits, followed by concreting.

The box is assembled using the same technology as the sash frames, with installation on bricks or blocks. The dimensions of the box along the inner contour in width are slightly larger than the total width of the valves. The difference is 2-3 cm. In height, the difference can be significant - up to 5-6 cm. Although optimally - 3-4 cm.

Swing gate box

Hinge installation

To do this, the sashes are laid on a U-shaped box with an exact location in a plane with the formation of gaps between all elements. Assembled hinges are applied at the place of their required location and welded: their lower parts to the box posts, the upper ones to the sash frame.

To strengthen the fasteners, metal strips or fittings can be additionally welded to the hinges.

Correct and high-quality welding with a loop

Swing gate installation

Ideally, the gate box should be mounted during the construction of the garage, when the walls are already half raised from bricks or blocks. But regardless of this, the installation is carried out according to the same technology.

1. Pits are dug under the racks with a depth of 0.5 m.
2. One or two crossbars made of reinforcement or a corner 10-20 cm long are welded to the lower edges of the racks, the purpose of which is to perform the functions of retaining elements in concrete.

Preparation of the rack before concreting the pit

1. From the bottom of the supports, metal plates are welded in the form of a penny to rest on the ground.
2. The half-meter ends of the racks are treated with a waterproofing compound, for example, with hot bitumen or covered with roofing material.
3. The box is being installed in the pits with precise alignment in the opening, for which the building level is used.
4. Racks are welded to embedded parts that are installed during the laying of the wall. Reinforcement with a diameter of 12-16 mm and a length of 50 cm is often used as mortgages. The laying step is every 6-8 rows.
5. Concrete is mixed at the rate of cement-sand-crushed stone in a ratio of 1:2:2, if the grade of cement is M400.
6. Pouring concrete into pits with a rammer. This is done not only in order to compact the concrete solution, but also in order to squeeze out of it the air that got there during the kneading process. Air pores are a decrease in the strength of concrete.
7. You can hang the sashes on the box after the concrete has set and dried.

How to make a gate with a gate?

The process of assembling a swing gate with a door is exactly the same. Just four elements are inserted into one of the wings, forming an opening for the door. Vertical are installed in full height, horizontal between them in the form of crossbars. The design of the doorway is assembled at the stage of manufacturing the frame for the sash.

Location of the door in the gate with standard dimensions

The door itself is made in exactly the same way as the gate sections, with the assembly of the frame and the installation of a metal sheet. The complexity of the manufacturing process of the sash itself, in which the door is installed, lies in the fact that the doorway remains an uncovered sheet of metal, and the remaining planes must be closed with them. All of them will not be equal to each other, so each section must be accurately measured, transferred to the sheet and cut out. After that, each cut piece is transferred to the frame with spot welding around the perimeter. In this case, the stacked sections of sheets must be joined on additional profiles that create rigidity of the frame structure.

Drawing of a garage swing gate with a gate

The size of the gate is selected taking into account the convenient passage through it, as well as the dimensions of the gate leaf. For example, if the leaf width is 1.5 m, then the width of the gate should not exceed 1 m. As for the height, the height of the gate and the location of the door itself relative to the lower elements of the gate frame are also taken into account. At the same time, the maximum location height is 40 cm. The very same door height is within 1.8-2.1 m.

Welded gate for garage doors

Swing gate options

Video - how to make a garage door with your own hands

Conclusion

With the seeming simplicity of the assembly process, it should be noted that the manufacture of swing garage doors requires attention from the manufacturer, the ability to accurately carry out all measurements and calculations. In this case, do not let go of the measuring instruments. A slight deviation in shape or size may cause the sashes to simply not fit into the frame. You will have to make adjustments in place, which will affect the evenness of the elements.

Reliable, easy-to-use and easy-to-manufacture metal gates are great for installation in suburban areas, summer cottages and any other objects. The assembly and installation of the structure in question can be done by hand. It is quite simple and much more profitable than entrusting the same work to professionals. Most often, swing metal gates are installed on individual sites. This is the easiest system to assemble, with the device of which you can handle it yourself without any problems.

Before starting work on the installation of metal gates, it is necessary to prepare a detailed competent project of the structure being erected. The most important thing is to determine the optimal dimensions.

So, if trucks pass through the gate, the width of the structure should be 350-400 cm. For cars, a width of 250 cm will be enough.

As for the height, for gates in private areas, an indicator of 200-250 cm is usually sufficient. Again, everything depends on the size of the car.

Additionally, provide in the project some gap between the ground surface and the gate frame. Thanks to this gap, you will be able to open the gate in snowy weather.

Gate design features

At the heart of the design of metal gates is the frame. To assemble the frame, an ordinary pipe with a diameter of 2-4 cm is usually used. The frame can also be made from a profile with a square section.

Each gate leaf must be equipped with 1-2 horizontal veins, due to which a higher rigidity of the system will be ensured. Instead of a horizontal arrangement of veins, you can choose other options, for example, place one transverse horizontal vein and two diagonal ones.

For self-assembly of the gate, you need to have the skills to handle a grinder, elementary measuring instruments, a welding machine, a screwdriver, a drill. In the absence of proper skills, you will have to spend some time learning.

Self-tapping screws can be used to secure the sashes, however, it is best to perform standard fastening with hinges. For one sash, a pair of loops with a diameter of 2 or 3 cm is enough.

The support poles are made of a profiled pipe 2x4 cm or a round pipe with a diameter of 7-7.6 cm.

Supports can be erected directly from pipes dug into the ground and fixed with concrete mortar. There is also an option, according to which pipes are installed in brick pillars. A couple of embedded parts must be present in the brickwork. Hinged racks of makeshift gates will be welded to them.

The locking mechanism of metal gates usually has the shape of the letter "L" and is made of an iron pin. Elements of the mechanism are installed at the bottom of each gate leaf.

Special mounting holes are created at the place of fixation of the valves in the ground. For their device it is convenient to use metal pipes. Select such pipes so that their inner diameter is approximately 1 cm larger than the thickness of the locking mechanism. It is desirable that the length of these pipes does not exceed 500 mm.

For sheathing a metal frame, it is most convenient to use profiled sheets. Modern corrugated board fits perfectly into the design of any site. Choose a material that blends well with the fence. The profiled sheet, as a rule, is fixed at a height of about 50-70 mm from the base.

What you need for work: a list of tools and materials

Prepare in advance everything that you will need in the process of performing the work in question.

Set for self-assembly of metal gates

1. Pipes of the sizes mentioned earlier.

2. Brick.

3. Cement grade not lower than M400.

5. Metal profile.

7. Hammer.

8. Rivets.

9. Self-tapping screws.

10. Pencil.

11. Measuring tools (goniometer, tape measure).

12. Emery.

13. Bulgarian.

14. Brush and paint (if you plan to paint the gate after installation).

Step-by-step instructions for assembling and installing the gate

The first stage - the manufacture of supports

Prepare materials for assembling the gate supports and assemble them into a single structure. As a basis, you can use pipes and metal profiles. You will also need a channel. It is important that the width of the channel shelf is at least 10 cm. The stronger the support, the longer the entire structure will last.

The second stage - installation of supports

Gate support pillars will be subjected to increased load, especially when closing and opening the structure. Therefore, at the stage of installation of supports, you will need much more responsibility than when installing an adjacent fence.

The supports are dug into the ground and poured with concrete mortar or lined with a brick base. There is also the option of installing supports directly on brick bases, but for a beginner it is very difficult to correctly perform such installation.

Canopies made from garage loops. Select the number of hinges according to the size and weight of the sashes. In most cases, two loops per sash are sufficient. If the wings are very massive, increase the total number of loops to six pieces.

Weld steel plates with a thickness of about 5 mm to both sides of each hinge. Plates should be welded over the entire contact area.

The third stage - the device of supporting pillars

These racks are made of square metal profile. Cut a couple of pieces of the same length. The length of these parts should be approximately 20-30 cm less than the height of the gate leaves.

Weld the hanging hinge plates to the finished posts. You should get two structures that are identical in size and spatial orientation.

Fix the finished structures on the installed supports. Perform fastening in such a way that there is a gap of no more than 3-4 mm between the support post and the supporting structure.

Cut the top of the metal profile to a suitable length and fasten the cut to the top points of the support posts.

Completely fasten all structural elements with a welding machine. Do spot welding.

The fourth stage is the final

Install the central posts in the amount of two pieces in the center of the metal gate. Perform installation in such a way that a gap of about 1 cm remains between the mentioned elements. The central racks must be “turned” by welding. Steel plates are thoroughly welded to the support posts.

To reinforce a homemade gate, take a sheet of steel with a thickness of about 50 mm and cut it into 8 parts. Fasten the resulting parts to the corners of the gate leaves. At the end, you need to divide the structure into 2 parts using an ordinary grinder to get two identical sashes.

If possible, make gaps of a couple of millimeters in the hinges. These gaps will prevent the gate leaves from moving in the future.

At the end, you can finish the finished gate with your preferred material, for example, paint it.

There are many tools and devices available on the modern market that allow you to automate homemade metal gates. If you are already tired of moving the leaves manually, buy an ordinary linear electric drive, and the problem will be solved!

The automation tool under consideration consists of two linear electric drives and a control unit. The design also includes an electromagnetic lock, a special antenna and a signal lamp.

To power the automation equipment, an ordinary household power supply of 200 W is suitable.

Gate automation can be carried out according to three different methods. The specific method is selected taking into account the direction in which the gate leaves open. They can open inward, outward or inward with the completion of the supporting pillars. For beginners, it is best to give preference to the option with the opening of the valves outward.

The control unit can be installed on the right or left. For specific installation instructions, please refer to the accompanying instructions. The instructions also indicate the requirements for the cross-section of wires. Check all these points before starting automation work.

The actual installation process varies for different models of automation systems. Consider the specific scheme on an individual basis. You can find it in the instructions for your device.

It is important to know one general feature of the installation for all systems - the drive must be placed at a certain distance from the supporting column. You can also find information about the optimal distance in the instructions for your device.

After installing the control unit, it will become much more convenient to use the gate. You can control the position of the flaps from a special stationary remote control or a portable device in the form of a miniature key fob. There are also designs that automatically open when a car approaches them, but this option is more suitable for sliding gates.

Thus, there is absolutely nothing complicated in the independent construction of metal gates. You only need to determine the optimal dimensions of the structure, assemble the base, fix all the necessary elements, and in the end, if such a desire arises, perform simple work to automate the system. Follow the instructions, and everything will definitely work out.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself metal gate

It is believed that swing gates are the oldest type of gate. Their existence is measured in millennia, but the principle of the device remains constant, and the changes concern only the materials of manufacture and construction.

They are used almost everywhere: at enterprises, cottages, in private homes. The availability of materials required for their manufacture, reliability and simplicity of design explain such a wide distribution of gates of this type. The gate can also become a decoration of your site, if you manage to make their lining beautiful. The lining can be made from corrugated board, metal sheet, forging, etc.

The advantages of swing gates include:

• simplicity of design
• low manufacturing cost
• versatility
• long service life
• almost complete lack of maintenance.

However, these gates also have disadvantages:

• in winter, to open them, snow removal is required
• the gate leaves need a lot of free space to open freely

Let's start manufacturing - stages of work

The first thing to take care of is load-bearing poles. They need to be made and then installed. For swing gates, poles from a profile metal pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm, from a wooden beam made of hard rocks, from concrete can be used. When installing such pillars, they must be concreted to a depth of 1 m or more.

If the pillars are built of bricks, then their foundation must be concreted to the same depth. The pillars themselves and their base must be reinforced. From the pillars inside the opening, a corner must be released or installed, which will be necessary for attaching the gate posts.

Concrete for concreting pillars is made on the basis of a mixture of cement, crushed stone and river sand in a ratio of 1:4. To make it easier to work, crushed stone is best used in fine fractions.

Bay bearing post, let it stand for 7 or more days in order for the concrete to set well.

While waiting for the concrete to harden, you can do gate leaf manufacturing. First of all, you should prepare the pipes for the manufacture of the frame. They must be cleaned of corrosion and dirt, degreased with a solvent or gasoline and applied with a layer of anti-corrosion primer. When the pipes are ready, the frame must be welded in the form of a rectangle or square. To ensure double-sided sewing, an additional pipe is welded flush with the main one in the middle part of the frame. After grinding the welding seams, the gate frame must be primed and painted.

After the paint has dried, start sewing the door leaf. The choice of sewing material and the sewing order is a very individual matter and depends mainly on the taste of the owner.

The next stage is suspension gate. If the support posts are metal, then the gate hinges are welded to the post itself. If the pillars are stone or brick, then a metal rack must be attached to them with dowels. And loops are already attached to this rack.

If you make swing gates with your own hands, then they will cost you much less. If you know how to do basic plumbing operations and if all the necessary materials are at hand, then the manufacture of swing gates will take two or three days.