How to make polymer self-leveling floors. Everything you wanted to know about polymer floors: an analysis of the nuances of self-leveling technology. Distinctive properties of decorative self-leveling floor

The varieties of self-leveling polymer floors, their advantages and areas of application are described in.

Now it makes sense to learn about the technology of their filling, especially since it is quite unique, has many important nuances.

In addition, readers will probably be interested in reading reviews of such flooring from people who have already experienced their daily use, as well as navigate the approximate price level for such materials.

Pouring polymer floors involves several characteristic stages of work carried out in a strictly defined sequence, in compliance with the technological requirements established by the manufacturer of the system.

It is clear that different types of coatings can have significant differences in the nuances of preparing the mixture and the timing of its use, the time intervals for drying each layer, the use of special additives, fillers or coloring pigments.

However, the approximate sequence of actions is the same for all types of bulk polymer floors.

As an example, we will consider the technology of pouring a two-component epoxy-based coating of the Elakor-ED system, which is widely used in industrial and private construction, includes all the necessary components for all stages, and has earned the most positive feedback from consumers.

Materials and tools for work

The amount of material is indicated on the basis of a fill of 10 sq. meters of floor with a thickness of 2.5 mm (this is the minimum permissible layer for this system). So, a high-quality filling of a polymer epoxy floor will require:

• Two-component soil "Elakor-ED 2K / 100" - 3 kg.
• Self-leveling floor "Elakor-ED" - 25 kg (7 kg for the base layer, and 18 - for the main one).
• Refined quartz sand, fraction 0.3 - 0.6 mm - 23-25 ​​kg.
• Polyurethane finishing varnish "Elakor-PU - Lux" - 1.2 - 1.5 kg.

The necessary tools are prepared in advance:

• Spatulas in different widths, from 200 to 600 mm.
• Sintepon rollers with a pile of 10-15 mm.
• Needle roller.
• Squeegee with adjustable clearance.
• Drill with attachment for mixing building mixtures. The drill must have speed control and reverse.
• If a large area is covered, you will need attachments for work shoes - paint shoes.
• Rigid synthetic broom, powerful vacuum cleaner (better - industrial).
• Containers for mixing the component solution.
• Be sure to use protective equipment for the skin of the hands and face.

Preparation of the base

The pouring work begins with the preparation of the base. Polymer floors can be poured onto a concrete screed, wooden surface, old tiles, but any type of surface requires careful revision and appropriate preparation.

One of the most important requirements is the horizontal surface. The epoxy floor is self-leveling. However, large differences in level will lead to a serious overspending of rather expensive material and a general rise in the cost of the coating.

A height difference of up to 1 mm per linear meter is considered acceptable. If it is larger, it makes sense to first eliminate it with a leveling screed.

• The concrete floor should not have unsealed cracks, deep potholes, crumbling areas.

Absorbed oil or other stains are unacceptable - they are hollowed out to clean concrete, followed by potholes.

For repair work, polymer putties are used, which can be supplemented with quartz sand.

The residual moisture content of the cement base should not exceed 4%. If the work will be carried out on fresh concrete, the minimum curing period should be at least 4 weeks.

• When covering a wooden floor, pay special attention to the stability of the base - it should not "play".

The tree must be cleaned of dirt, old paint, sanded and sanded. The relative humidity of wood is allowed up to 10%.

• When laying on a tile, all tiles must be tapped to identify loose ones.

They should be removed from the common masonry, and the resulting grooves should be repaired with putty.

Immediately before the application of the primary primer layer (no more than 2 hours), the entire floor surface must be cleaned again of debris and dust with a powerful vacuum cleaner.

Conditions for floor pouring work

The pouring technology assumes compliance with certain conditions for work:

• The air temperature in the room and the surface of the base is within + 5 ... + 25 degrees.
• Air humidity - no higher than 80%.
• The optimum temperature of the components during mixing is 15-20 degrees.
• To prepare the solution, you must choose a place that will exclude the possibility of accidental splashing on the surface to be poured.

Priming the floor aims to clog the pores of the concrete, improve adhesion, and prevent peeling or swelling of the future coating.

In this case, the soil is a two-component composition; in other systems, a ready-made deep penetration primer is often used.

Add the required amount of component B to component A and mix thoroughly using both the forward and reverse direction of rotation of the drill. Optimum speed is 500 rpm.

After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, an exposure is made for 2-3 minutes. to release air bubbles, and you can start work.

1. The soil is poured over the surface with a snake and is evenly distributed with a synthetic winterizer roller.

If areas with increased absorbency are identified, they are immediately re-primed. You should get a uniform, smooth, glossy surface. The primary soil layer will require 18 hours to 24 hours for polymerization.

1. If required, at this stage it is possible to repair small irregularities by mixing for this an epoxy putty or even a small amount of the base composition of the self-leveling floor with 1-3 parts of quartz sand.
2. After the primary layer, a second layer is applied - a protective layer of soil, which is immediately sprinkled with a small amount of sand.

A day later, preferably no more, proceed to the next stage.

Creating a base layer

The base, underlayment, layer will become a reliable base for the finishing, front surface. It completely seals all remaining pores, hides all irregularities and differences. It is also poured in two steps.

• First, a generous layer of epoxy primer is again applied to the surface, which is spread with a trowel so that no puddles form. Quartz sand (about 1.5 kg per square meter) is poured over the uncured soil with excess.

• After 15-18 hours, excess sand is removed with a stiff brush, the surface is dust-free.
• Prepare the main composition for pouring the floor.

There are some subtleties in its preparation - first, the component "A" is mixed, in the forward and reverse directions, and then, without stopping the rotation, the component "B" is poured.

An absolutely homogeneous composition should be achieved.

After stirring again 2-3 minutes for aneration - and immediately the mixture is put into operation. Leaving it in a container for more than 10 minutes is contraindicated.

• The composition is poured on the floor in even strips and spread to the required thickness using a squeegee. In some hard-to-reach places, you will need to use a spatula.

Average consumption is about 400-500 ml per square meter.

If you plan to decorate the floor with polymer inclusions (chips), then they are laid at this stage. Work is best done by wearing paint walkers on your feet and avoiding shuffling movements.

• After leveling the spilled mixture, it is given 15-20 hours to harden.

This layer will become the "face" of the future floor, therefore, when pouring it, increased accuracy is required. In addition to the decorative function, this layer also bears the main mechanical load.

The composition is mixed in the same way as described above, but the amount of the mixture per square meter will be more - at least 1 liter per square meter at a surface temperature of about 20 degrees, or even 1.8 liters at 5 degrees.

With a smaller amount, the self-leveling effect may not be achieved. Pre-leveling is also done with a squeegee.

Time is limited - the prepared epoxy mixture needs to be worked out in 30 - 45 minutes.

In 10-15 minutes after the uniform distribution of the composition over the surface, but no later than half an hour, rolling with a needle roller takes place, which will free the layer from possible air bubbles.

Polymerization will last about a day, but the floor should be exposed to mechanical stress not earlier than after 4-6 days. During this period, the surface must be open, but protected from dust, dirt, liquid.

A good addition would be the application of a protective clear coat of polyurethane varnish. It is applied twice in a thin layer using a roller or brush. Its polymerization will take another day, and after 3 days the floor will be completely ready for full use.

After all layers have completely solidified, expansion joints are cut along the perimeter of the room, which are sealed with a special sealant.

How much is the material for a polymer self-leveling floor

For example, the prices for several popular systems of polymer self-leveling floors of various types:

Self-leveling polymer floors are a very popular and practical coating that has many advantages. They are a liquid polymer mass, which is poured onto the base, and after hardening, it becomes even and strong. The presented material can be used at home, as well as at industrial facilities.

Among the advantages of self-leveling floors, the following can be noted:

1. Lack of joints and seams, which reduce the decorative properties of the coating.
2. High degree of environmental friendliness.
3. Tightness.
4. Resistant to moisture, biological factors, corrosion.
5. High level of durability.
6. Choice of different shades and textures.
7. Hygienic, so the mixture can be poured even in children's rooms and hospital rooms.
8. Ease of cleaning, and various detergents (even chemical) can be used to clean the floor.
9. Antistatic.
10. Resistant to temperature changes. The presented coating is capable of withstanding a sufficiently high temperature.
11. The ability to pour the mixture with your own hands.

The video will tell you about the advantages of coverage:

As for the shortcomings, there are only a few of them: the rather high cost of the material, as well as the unusually difficult dismantling of the polymer layer.

Classification of polymer coatings

Before you start pouring the mixture with your own hands, you need to decide on what they are:

By the material of manufacture used

• ... They are distinguished by their low cost, good hardness and strength. However, under strong mechanical stress, they are capable of cracking, since they are considered quite fragile;
• ... They are resistant to temperature changes, can withstand heavy loads and do not crack even after a strong impact. However, their cost is quite high;
• Methyl methacrylate. Such floors are quite difficult to fill with your own hands, while they harden extremely quickly (in 25 hours). Thanks to this property, the period for repairing the floor is significantly reduced. However, they also have some disadvantages: poor resistance to the negative effects of chemicals.

Depending on the layer thickness

• Thin-layer. Most often they are used to equip garages, parking lots, storage rooms. In this case, the layer thickness is only 0.25-0.4 mm. Such a coating practically does not peel off during a point impact, and is also able to withstand traffic;
• Medium thickness - 1.5-2.5 mm. Used in industrial premises and commercial buildings. They are quickly assembled and hardened. Such mixtures have a rich range of shades;
• Thick-layer. The layer thickness is 5-8 mm.

Depending on the properties

• Cement polyurethane. In this case, the thickness of the coating is 5-8 mm. They are used in those areas where very strict requirements are imposed on cleanliness, for example: in the kitchen, in the food industry, in medical laboratories. Such a coating performs well its functions in a fairly wide temperature range: from -40 to +1200 ° C;
• Antistatic. Such floors are ideal for photo salons, in electronics manufacturing workshops, research laboratories;
• Frost resistant. They have a small thickness, and can be used in those rooms where there is high humidity and low temperatures;
• Highly filled. They have a maximum thickness of 5-10 mm. The mixture contains quartz sand, which allows the coating to withstand super-strong loads;
• Deactivatable. They are most often used in buildings where work with nuclear reactors is carried out.

Filling technology

Required tools and materials for installation

In order to mount, it is necessary to collect the following devices and materials:

Preparatory work

You can pour the mixture with your own hands, but the surface of the base should be well prepared before this. In most cases, polymer blends can compensate for significant differences in height, but it is better not to have them. If there are any defects, chips, protrusions at the base, then it is advisable to remove them.

We have here a very detailed video about all the nuances of preparing a base for pouring a self-leveling floor:

In order for the filling to "take" well, the base needs to be sanded with sandpaper. In addition, the floor should be covered with a primer mortar. Subsequently, the poured layer cannot be dismantled on its own without special equipment, therefore it must be poured extremely carefully and carefully.

Filling the rough and finish layers

To fill the polymer floor with your own hands, you need to complete several steps:

Filling the second layer of the mixture, it is necessary to leave a technological gap around the perimeter of the room. It will subsequently be filled with a special sealant designed for polymer coatings.

More clearly about the technology of self-assembly in the video:

As you can see, it is quite simple to install such a floor covering with your own hands, even if the master has no experience with such a mixture. However, all work should be done carefully and carefully.

When planning an independent arrangement of a polymer floor, you need to remember that the work must be done as efficiently as possible so that the coating lasts as long as possible. The topic of today's article is the technology of pouring polymer floors, the procedure is complex and time-consuming.

Coating features

Self-leveling polymer floor is the most common type of polyurethane and epoxy coatings, characterized by increased decorative properties.

The thickness of the fill in this case varies between 2.5 mm and 5 mm. It is impractical to make the layer thicker, since this will significantly increase costs, and the functional and decorative parameters of the floor will remain the same. Areas of application - residential and public buildings.

Among other advantages of polymer floors, it is worth highlighting:

• wear resistance;
• dustlessness;
• immunity to aggressive chemical compounds;
• a wide range of colors - the coating can be both colored and transparent;
• lack of smell when styling;
• the ability to apply 3D drawings.

Note! The quasi-three-dimensional image is made possible by the decorative polyurethane component. In such cases, the floor is poured in two stages - first, the polymer mixture is poured, then, after it dries, a topcoat is applied (more on this at the end of the article).

Due to the high aesthetic level, polymer floors allow you to create full-fledged compositions using marble chips or colored sand. The filling procedure has its own nuances, we will consider them in more detail.

Stage 1. Preparation

Arrangement of a self-leveling polymer floor begins with preparatory work.

Wooden base

Step 1. First, the room is cleaned of debris and dust, furniture is taken out, decorative elements are dismantled (such as skirting boards, cornices).

Step 2. Then everything necessary for work is prepared. You can use a vacuum cleaner to remove small debris, and a sander to remove glue and old coatings. By the way, the reliability and durability of the future floor largely depends on the quality of cleaning.

Step 3. Next is the preliminary preparation of the base. In this case, it is very important what material was used for the previous coating, because if it is, for example, wood, then the base should be pre-sanded, putty all cracks, treated with a degreasing compound - all these measures will improve the adhesion of the polymer to wooden boards. For degreasing, you can use gasoline, acetone or any other organic solvent.

If there is no difficulty in disposing of the residual solvent, a surfactant or KM alkali solution can be added. Although today you can buy special means for degreasing wood (for example, Mellerud), which in parallel protect the surface from fungal formation.

Step 4. The moisture content of the floor is estimated using a moisture meter. It should not exceed 10%, otherwise the polymer filling will be of poor quality.

A concrete floor is prepared for pouring in a slightly different way.

Step 1. The moisture content of concrete is estimated, if it is higher than 4%, then the surface is dried. To determine humidity (in the absence of a moisture meter), you can use one old method: a rubber mat is placed on the floor and pressed firmly, and if the surface under it has not changed color after 24 hours, then the base is ready for pouring.

Concrete floor moisture meter

Step 2. The compressive strength of the floor is also checked (the norm is 20 MPa and above). To do this, hammer blows are applied to a chisel installed perpendicular to the surface. If the concrete has not crumbled, and the chisel has left barely noticeable marks, then the strength of the base is within acceptable limits.

Step 3. The presence of waterproofing is checked. If it is not there, then further work on the creation of a self-leveling floor is impossible, because the concrete will begin to flake off, which is especially important in the bathroom or kitchen.

Moreover, in case of poor-quality insulation, moisture will rise through the capillaries in the concrete coating to the polymer layer and sooner or later will destroy it.

Note! Otherwise, the preparatory measures for a concrete base are practically no different from those for a wooden base.

If a polymer floor is poured onto a tile, then first its voidness is checked (it may appear after the tile adhesive has dried). All components that have lagged behind the surface must be removed, and the resulting voids must be putty.

After that, the surface is degreased.

Stage 2. Level difference

This term is used to refer to the difference in height between the highest and lowest points on the floor surface. If the difference is 0.5-2.5 cm, then before applying the primer, the floor is filled with an assembly leveling mixture (sand and polymer self-leveling mixture in a ratio of 1: 2). A trowel is used to apply the mixture.

If the difference exceeds 2.5 cm, then you will need to fill the surface with a correcting mixture (sand with cement in a ratio of 2: 1).

Note! In both cases, instead of building mixtures, you can use a special leveling mortar designed for this thickness.

Stage 3. Materials and tools

After preparing the surface, you need to take care of everything you need. To work you will need:

• polymer leveling mixture;

  

• deep penetration primer mixture;

  

• putty knife;
• building level;
• squeegee;

  
  

• electric drill with mixer attachment;
• needle roller;

  
  

• container for solution preparation.

Stage 4. Priming

It is best to use a roller to apply the primer coat. If the surface is porous, then the primer is applied in several layers and after each of them a short pause is made to dry the mixture.

Here are the basic functions of priming:

• improving the spreading of the polymer composition;
• improved adhesion to the base;
• preventing the appearance of air bubbles.

If the floor will be poured in several layers, then the primer must be applied in front of each of them.

Note! In a room with a high level of humidity, the primer layer is covered with a waterproof compound.

You also need to remember that primer compounds are toxic, so you should take care of high-quality ventilation of the room in advance. Moreover, the temperature should not be allowed to drop - if it drops below +15? C, then the adhesion efficiency of the primer will noticeably deteriorate.

It takes at least 24 hours for the primed surface to dry completely.

Step 5. Thermal compensation

One of the most important elements of a flooded floor is a thermal expansion joint, which should be applied around the entire perimeter of the room. For this, wooden slats are taken (necessarily from hardwood). These seams will prevent the floor from deforming in case of significant temperature changes.

Stage 6. Preparation of the solution

The preparation of the solution must be taken seriously, since the poor quality of the filling will hopelessly ruin the polymer coating. It is characteristic that after preparation, the solution must be poured as quickly as possible, because it hardens after a few minutes.

Note! The humidity in the room during filling should be no more than 70%, otherwise moisture will condense on the surface.

All components are poured into the container in the ratio specified in the instructions for the polymer mixture. To avoid heating the solution too quickly, the container can be placed in another, larger one, filled with cold water.

All components are mixed with an electric drill operating at low speeds (no more than 400 rpm) until a homogeneous mass is obtained. To determine the readiness of the solution, you can use one simple method:

• A small ring is cut from the deodorant cover and placed on a flat surface (for example, a piece of sheet steel);
• the ring is filled with a solution and lifted;
• with a uniform spreading of the solution into a spot with a diameter of 3 cm, you can start pouring.

Note! If the mixture is too thick, then it will not be able to level out qualitatively, and if it is too liquid, then you will need to add a little more dry polymer.

Stage 7. Filling the polymer floor

Do-it-yourself polymer floors are poured in the same way as ordinary self-leveling ones.

Step 1. The first portion of the mortar is poured along the wall farthest from the entrance with a strip 45 cm wide. Then, for better distribution, the mortar is leveled with a spatula.

Note! The whole room is filled immediately, otherwise there will be drops.

Step 2. After leveling, the surface is rolled with a needle roller to remove air.

Step 3. After that, a new strip of solution is poured and leveled. The procedure is repeated until the entire room is filled.

Step 4. After 48 hours after pouring, a polyurethane coating is applied. For the entire drying period, the floor must be protected from the sun, drafts and temperature fluctuations.

Note! If a "warm floor" is used to heat the room, then the first start of heating can be carried out only seven days after pouring. In this case, you need to start at room temperature, gradually increasing it - by about 2-3 ° C per day.

Also read the article on our website - do-it-yourself jellied floor.

There are two ways to create a decorative layer:

• place the finished image in advance;
• make a drawing on the floor.

In the first case, you will need acrylic paints that are resistant to prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation. This is an easier and cheaper way, since today you can buy your favorite image as a printout on a plotter (in this case, a banner fabric is taken as a basis). During the arrangement, the fabric is covered with a thermal insulating vinyl film to increase its operational life.

The dimensions of the image should be larger than the dimensions of the room, because it is always easier to cut the fabric than to apply it.

Video - 3D Floors

The technology for creating 3D images is as follows.

Step 1. First, the base is carefully primed. For this, the same leveling solution is used, but diluted with water just enough so that its concentration is halved. It will take 24 hours for the primer to cure.

Step 2. The image is glued onto a primer and rolled with a dry clean roller. It is characteristic that in this case it is possible to move on the floor only in special spiked shoes.

Step 3. A transparent polymer layer 4-5 mm thick is applied. This is the same as described above. After half an hour, the fill dries up and can be treated with transparent varnish.

The complete readiness of the polymer floor for use is determined by the drying of the varnish.

Video - Pouring polymer floors

When planning an independent arrangement of a polymer floor, you need to remember that the work must be done as efficiently as possible so that the coating lasts as long as possible. The topic of today's article is the technology of pouring polymer floors, the procedure is complex and time-consuming.

A self-leveling polymer floor is the most common type of polyurethane and epoxy coatings, characterized by increased decorative properties.

The thickness of the fill in this case varies between 2.5 mm and 5 mm. It is impractical to make the layer thicker, since this will significantly increase costs, and the functional and decorative parameters of the floor will remain the same. Areas of application - residential and public buildings.

Among other advantages of polymer floors, it is worth highlighting:

• wear resistance;
• dustlessness;
• immunity to aggressive chemical compounds;
• a wide range of colors - the coating can be both colored and transparent;
• lack of smell when styling;
• the ability to apply 3D drawings.

Note! The quasi-three-dimensional image is made possible by the decorative polyurethane component. In such cases, the floor is poured in two stages - first, the polymer mixture is poured, then, after it dries, a topcoat is applied (more on this at the end of the article).

Due to the high aesthetic level, polymer floors allow you to create full-fledged compositions using marble chips or colored sand. The filling procedure has its own nuances, we will consider them in more detail.

Stage 1. Preparation

Arrangement of a self-leveling polymer floor begins with preparatory work.

Wooden base

Step 1. First, the room is cleaned of debris and dust, furniture is taken out, decorative elements are dismantled (such as skirting boards, cornices).

Step 2. Then everything necessary for work is prepared. You can use a vacuum cleaner to remove small debris, and a sander to remove glue and old coatings. By the way, the reliability and durability of the future floor largely depends on the quality of cleaning.

Step 3. Next is the preliminary preparation of the base. In this case, it is very important what material was used for the previous coating, because if it is, for example, wood, then the base should be pre-sanded, putty all cracks, treated with a degreasing compound - all these measures will improve the adhesion of the polymer to wooden boards. For degreasing, you can use gasoline, acetone or any other organic solvent.

If there are no difficulties with the disposal of solvent residues, a surfactant or KM alkali solution can be added. Although today you can buy special means for degreasing wood (for example, Mellerud), which in parallel protect the surface from fungal formation.

Step 4. The moisture content of the floor is estimated using a moisture meter. It should not exceed 10%, otherwise the polymer filling will be of poor quality.

A concrete floor is prepared for pouring in a slightly different way.

Step 1. The moisture content of concrete is estimated, if it is higher than 4%, then the surface is dried. To determine humidity (in the absence of a moisture meter), you can use one old method: a rubber mat is placed on the floor and pressed firmly, and if the surface under it has not changed color after 24 hours, then the base is ready for pouring.

Concrete floor moisture meter

Step 2. The compressive strength of the floor is also checked (the norm is 20 MPa and above). To do this, hammer blows are applied to a chisel installed perpendicular to the surface. If the concrete has not crumbled, and the chisel has left barely noticeable marks, then the strength of the base is within acceptable limits.

Step 3. The presence of waterproofing is checked. If it is not there, then further work on the creation of a self-leveling floor is impossible, because the concrete will begin to flake off, which is especially important in the bathroom or kitchen.

Moreover, in case of poor-quality insulation, moisture will rise through the capillaries in the concrete coating to the polymer layer and sooner or later will destroy it.

Note! Otherwise, the preparatory measures for a concrete base are practically no different from those for a wooden base.

If a polymer floor is poured onto a tile, then first its voidness is checked (it may appear after the tile adhesive has dried). All components that have lagged behind the surface must be removed, and the resulting voids must be putty.

After that, the surface is degreased.

Stage 2. Level difference

This term is used to refer to the difference in height between the highest and lowest points on the floor surface. If the difference is 0.5-2.5 cm, then before applying the primer, the floor is filled with an assembly leveling mixture (sand and polymer self-leveling mixture in a ratio of 1: 2). A trowel is used to apply the mixture.

If the difference exceeds 2.5 cm, then you will need to fill the surface with a correcting mixture (sand with cement in a ratio of 2: 1).

Note! In both cases, instead of mortars, a special leveling mortar suitable for this thickness can be used.

Stage 3. Materials and tools

After preparing the surface, you need to take care of everything you need. To work you will need:

• polymer leveling mixture;

  

• deep penetration primer mixture;

  

• putty knife;
• building level;
• squeegee;

  

• electric drill with mixer attachment;
• needle roller;

  

• container for solution preparation.

Stage 4. Priming

It is best to use a roller to apply the primer coat. If the surface is porous, then the primer is applied in several layers and after each of them a short pause is made to dry the mixture.

Here are the basic functions of priming:

• improving the spreading of the polymer composition;
• improved adhesion to the base;
• preventing the appearance of air bubbles.

If the floor will be poured in several layers, then the primer must be applied in front of each of them.

Note! In a room with a high level of humidity, the primer layer is covered with a waterproof compound.

You also need to remember that primer compounds are toxic, so you should take care of high-quality ventilation of the room in advance. Moreover, the temperature should not be allowed to drop - if it drops below + 15ᵒС, then the adhesion efficiency of the primer will noticeably deteriorate.

It takes at least 24 hours for the primed surface to dry completely.

Step 5. Thermal compensation

One of the most important elements of a cast floor is a temperature-compensated joint, which should be applied around the entire perimeter of the room. For this, wooden slats are taken (necessarily from hardwood). These seams will prevent the floor from deforming in case of significant temperature changes.

Stage 6. Preparation of the solution

The preparation of the solution must be taken seriously, since the poor quality of the filling will hopelessly ruin the polymer coating. It is characteristic that after preparation, the solution must be poured as quickly as possible, because it hardens after a few minutes.

Note! The humidity in the room during filling should be no more than 70%, otherwise moisture will condense on the surface.

All components are poured into the container in the ratio specified in the instructions for the polymer mixture. To avoid heating the solution too quickly, the container can be placed in another, larger one, filled with cold water.

All components are mixed with an electric drill operating at low speeds (no more than 400 rpm) until a homogeneous mass is obtained. To determine the readiness of the solution, you can use one simple method:

• A small ring is cut from the deodorant cover and placed on a flat surface (for example, a piece of sheet steel);
• the ring is filled with a solution and lifted;
• with a uniform spreading of the solution into a spot with a diameter of 3 cm, you can start pouring.

Note! If the mixture is too thick, then it will not be able to level out qualitatively, and if it is too liquid, then you will need to add a little more dry polymer.

Stage 7. Filling the polymer floor

Do-it-yourself polymer floors are poured in the same way as ordinary self-leveling ones.

Step 1. The first portion of the mortar is poured along the wall farthest from the entrance with a strip 45 cm wide. Then, for better distribution, the mortar is leveled with a spatula.

Note! The whole room is filled immediately, otherwise there will be drops.

Step 2. After leveling, the surface is rolled with a needle roller to remove air.

Step 3. After that, a new strip of solution is poured and leveled. The procedure is repeated until the entire room is filled.

Step 4. After 48 hours after pouring, a polyurethane coating is applied. For the entire drying period, the floor must be protected from the sun, drafts and temperature fluctuations.

Note! If a "warm floor" is used to heat the room, then the first start of heating can be carried out only seven days after pouring. In this case, you need to start at room temperature, gradually increasing it - by about 2-3 ° C per day.

Also read the article on our website - do-it-yourself jellied floor.

There are two ways to create a decorative layer:

• place the finished image in advance;
• make a drawing on the floor.

In the first case, you will need acrylic paints that are resistant to prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation. This is an easier and cheaper way, since today you can buy your favorite image as a printout on a plotter (in this case, a banner fabric is taken as a basis). During the arrangement, the fabric is covered with a thermal insulating vinyl film to increase the service life.

The dimensions of the image should be larger than the dimensions of the room, because it is always easier to cut the fabric than to apply it.

Video -

The technology for creating 3D images is as follows.

Step 1. First, the base is carefully primed. For this, the same leveling solution is used, but diluted with water just enough so that its concentration is halved. It will take 24 hours for the primer to cure.

Step 2. The image is glued onto a primer and rolled with a dry clean roller. It is characteristic that in this case it is possible to move on the floor only in special spiked shoes.

Step 3. A transparent polymer layer 4-5 mm thick is applied. This is the same as described above. After half an hour, the fill dries up and can be treated with transparent varnish.

The complete readiness of the polymer floor for use is determined by the drying of the varnish.

Video - Pouring polymer floors

It is quite difficult and time-consuming to equip polymer floors with your own hands. Many craftsmen recommend laying this kind of floor, since it is considered environmentally friendly, shiny and durable. The composition of the mixture used contains several components, the main one, of course, the polymer, together with which hardeners, dyes and granite chips are used.

More recently, a polymer self-leveling floor was used for pouring only in industrial buildings that had high levels of mechanical or chemical effects. Over the course of time, this material has been modernized. The excellent quality of the flooring and the attractive appearance have played a role, now the polymer floor has become more and more popular. Many people do not use the services of specialists and prefer to create polymer self-leveling floors in their apartments.

Varieties and features of self-leveling floors

Today in the construction market there are two types of self-leveling floors: polyurethane and epoxy.

Industrial floors made of polyurethane self-leveling coating are used as floor surfaces in warehouses, hangars and production facilities. Also, sometimes this type of floor is used in parking lots or in buildings of the food industry or a refrigerated industrial site.

Industrial polymer floors are distinguished by their high wear resistance, mechanical and chemical resistance. Due to their properties, industrial self-leveling floors perfectly cope with deformations from loads on their base.

Epoxy resin floors, which have another name: "liquid linoleum", are also very durable and resistant to chemicals. Epoxy self-leveling coatings have a smooth surface and a wide range of colors. The epoxy polymer material does not contain solvents, so the coating does not have any strong odors.

Training

Like any other construction process, pouring a polymer self-leveling floor has several important stages, each of which must be performed as efficiently as possible, which, as a result, will affect the effectiveness of the work performed.

The process of preparing the base for pouring

This stage is one of the most important, because the polymer floor can only be poured onto a smooth and even surface, without any flaws and defects. This implies that before starting work, you must make sure that there are no defects.

To do this, the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust while using a broom, but it is best to use a construction vacuum cleaner. If cracks and cracks were found during cleaning, they must be repaired with concrete mortar. If these defects are small in size, then putty can be used for filling. Complete leveling of the floor base is done in several ways: either use a grinder or make a new concrete screed.

After you have processed the base, it must be thoroughly dried and then primed. For this, only a special primer is used, with which a surface with good adhesion properties is created. Also, when using a primer, small cracks and cracks can be repaired. For greater efficiency and reliability, it is recommended to prime the base in two layers.

After the priming process is over, it is necessary to lay wooden slats around the entire perimeter in order to create an expansion joint.

Preparation of polymer mixture

A mixture of a self-leveling polymer floor is made from several components, which are usually found in two cans. It is better to take a separate container for mixing them. But some people transfer ingredients from one jar to another. Still, it is recommended to mix all the ingredients in a separate container.

Do not forget that in the process of mixing the components in the solution, a chemical reaction begins to occur, which entails the release of thermal energy. In order for the high temperature not to affect the quality of the polymer, it is necessary to put the container in which the components are mixed into another container, into which cold water must be poured in advance.

It is recommended to use a construction mixer or a special drill attachment to mix the components. Since the mixture tends to harden quickly, the mixing process should take no more than a few minutes. After thorough mixing, this solution must be applied to the floor base.

Basic steps, materials and tool

The process of pouring polymer self-leveling floors with your own hands consists in performing several stages:

• Preparation of the concrete base;
• Arrangement of the first - the main layer;
• Creation of the second, decorative layer;
• Application of varnish coating.

Basically, epoxy polymer coatings are applied to a concrete base, to which there are a number of certain requirements:

• Necessarily a flat plane, there should be no defects, in the form of cracks, etc.
• There must be a waterproofing arrangement;
• There must be a clean surface, there must be no oil stains;
• The moisture content of the concrete should not exceed 4%;
• The screed should be made of M200 grade concrete at least.

Before starting work with a self-leveling floor, you must have the following set of tools and auxiliary materials with you:

• A container that has a volume of about 30 liters in order to prepare the composition;
• The presence of shoes with spikes (paint shoes), so that you can easily move on the treated surface;
• Availability of a simple spatula for use in hard-to-reach areas;
• The presence of a spatula squeegee, which is used to evenly distribute the solution;
• The presence of a whisk, a drill with low speed;
• The presence of an aeration roller (with spikes) to remove bubbles on the freshly laid surface.

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Decor elements

Almost all epoxy polymer coatings have good performance characteristics, and their decorative properties can surprise everyone.

This type of flooring allows you to independently create a unique, beautiful and individual surface. To do this, you need to buy decorative elements in advance, for which you can take sea pebbles or small shells, coins or buttons of various shapes and colors.

In some places, this floor is designed in the form of an artistic system, while stencils are used and certain patterns are applied with paints, which allows you to create polymer self-leveling floors with your own hands that are truly unique and inimitable.

In the process, a beautiful stained-glass window can be laid out of all this. Such a floor covering has a huge number of decoration methods.

The process of pouring a polymer self-leveling floor

To equip polymer floors with their own hands, they use mixtures of industrial and homemade preparation. For self-preparation of the solution, it is necessary to pour cement, sand and crushed stone into a previously prepared container, observing the proportions provided for in the instructions, then thoroughly mix them dry, and then add water and then mix again until a homogeneous mass is obtained.

In order for the surface to be as flat as possible, a special technological technique is used. This process involves the use of planks that are installed around the perimeter of the room. By this very method, an almost perfect surface can be achieved. For lighthouses, T-shaped steel slats are taken, which are installed on quick-drying mixtures. Laser devices or hydraulic levels are used to define and mark the surface. Visually, you can see the highest point at which a reference mark is made. The floor level can be set with the exceeded total thickness of all layers, and it is also necessary to take into account the fact that for a screed it should not be more than 40 millimeters and less than 20 millimeters.

In order to make the process faster, you can use threads that must be pulled between the walls according to the marks that were supplied when the required floor level was installed.

It is best to fill the floor in stripes. When carrying out work, you need to take with you an assistant who will supply the solution. The pouring process itself is carried out in this way: a ready-made solution is taken and poured in strips between the beacons. Then the rules are taken and the filled mixture is evenly distributed by them. The tool needs to be moved along the lighthouse rails, moving the mixture in waves. Thus, the distribution of the solution is carried out with the least resistance and most evenly.

Then remove air bubbles from the polymer coating that appear when mixing the components. Usually a needle roller is used for this. Before pouring the floor, you can watch numerous videos about the correct sequence of work.

In the process of smoothing the mixture, it is necessary to carefully monitor so that there are no defects, or rather, voids and depressions. It is necessary to start pouring from the far corner with a sequential movement to the exit. The process itself is carried out in strips along the lighthouses until the entire surface in the room is filled. After the preparatory layer has dried, the resulting surface is decorated, if necessary, after which the second layer of the mixture is poured in the same way, followed by applying a varnish. Of course, for the implementation of the work, the supervision of a specialist is desirable, who represents what it is and how it is all done, but we hope that with the help of our instructions you will be able to carry out all the necessary work on your own.