How drainage works. How does the drainage system work? Drainage pipes for groundwater drainage

The efficiency of the drainage system and its reliability depends not only on the correctness of the system design being drawn up, but also on the quality materials used. Particular attention should be paid to HDPE drainage pipes with geotextiles. These elements of the system must be installed in compliance with the rules of the technical process.

Basic drainage materials

The materials used to create a drainage system include:

perforated pipes;
drainage pumps;
geotextile;
drainage membranes.

To create an effective drainage system on the site, you need to learn more about each specified material.

What geotextile is needed for the drainage system

Geotextiles are needed in order to ensure the stability of the entire system and prevent soil subsidence in the trench. Also, this material is a filter that helps to prevent silting of the drain pipe.

The best material for use in the drainage system is a material that is made from primary raw materials. It should be noted that a feature of high-quality geotextiles is a snow-white color.

For the drainage system, it is worth choosing a thermally bonded geotextile, since the needle-punched one does not have the necessary hygroscopic characteristics. This is due to the fact that the second named type of geotextile quickly becomes clogged with soil.

Geotextiles can be replaced with drainage mats, which are made of geocomposite. But when buying them, it is worth remembering that they need to be wrapped in geotextile.

Geotextile laying process

When laying geotextiles in drainage ditches, the following rules must be observed:

The bottom and sides of the ditches must have a level surface. It is also worth remembering that there should be no debris at the bottom.
Some of the materials described are sensitive to ultraviolet light. Because of this, you should not remove the wrapper before starting work.
If the geotextile was damaged during installation, it is worth replacing the used piece of material with a new one.
Wrinkles and wrinkles should be avoided during installation. But at the same time, you also need to ensure that the canvas is not stretched, as this can lead to its rupture.

When laying material over a large area, it must be fixed.
To prevent damage to the material, it should be backfilled immediately after trenching.
After the backfill of the drainage material over the geotextile is complete, it is necessary to wrap the edges of the material. In this case, the overlap of the edges should be about 20 cm. This will provide protection against contamination of the drainage material.
At the last stage, it is necessary to lay the soil on the edges of the geotextile and compact it.

When purchasing drainage pipes and geotextiles, you should not choose the cheapest products, as they may be of poor quality.

Drainage membranes

Membranes are usually made of polyethylene and have a bubble-like structure. It should be noted that membranes made from primary raw materials are more durable. If such products are made from recycled polyethylene, they can withstand the load about 2 times lower than the material from primary.

Membranes are designed to perform the following functions:

protection of the waterproofing layer from mechanical damage;
protection of waterproofing of building foundations;
distribution of the load that arises from the pressure of the backfill soil, as well as from the pressure of groundwater;
filtration of groundwater and its redirection into pipes;
protection of the waterproofing layer on the operated roof.

Thus, the described membranes are used in industrial and civil construction, in the creation of cottages, as well as during the construction of roads.

Types of drainage pumps and their areas of application

Pumps are divided into two main types:

submersible;
superficial.

Submersible pumps are completely submerged in water. They are more powerful, since they are often used to raise water from a well. Such units are compact and do not generate noise during operation. The disadvantages of such products include the complexity of the repair, as well as the need to remove the pump from the ground for maintenance. Surface pumps are located at some distance from the water, and the water is pumped using a hose.

Drainage pumps can be used in everyday life, as well as in industry and construction. For example, they are often used in areas for pumping water from drainage wells. The pump can be permanently installed in the well or submerged into it only when necessary. The second option for using the pump is used only if a small amount of water accumulates on the site.

Features of the design of pipes

Almost all drainage pipes have a perforated surface. Due to this, the walls can be thin, but at the same time remain rigid. At the same time, large-diameter pipes can be lightweight, making it easier to create a drainage system.

The pipes described can have one or two layers. In single-layer, the inner and outer surfaces are corrugated. Such products are distinguished by good flexibility, therefore they are often used to organize drainage at the site. Double-layer pipes have a smooth inner surface so that debris does not get stuck in the drainage system.

Double-walled pipes are more rigid, so they can be laid at a depth of 6 meters. If single-layer structures are used, they are used at a depth of 2 meters. When connecting the described elements, the same fittings are used that are used for PVC pipes. It is worth remembering that adhesive tape is not suitable for fastening such products, since it does not reliably hold materials.

The principle of the drainage system

If the site is located in a wetland or near a body of water, then a drainage system should be installed around the entire site. This will divert water away from the foundation of the house and make the land suitable for planting crops.

The principle of operation of the drainage system is as follows:

surface and ground water enters the perforated pipes and is discharged into the sewerage system;
after entering the sewage system, the water is discharged into the drainage well.

While working, you should remember some points:

The drainage efficiency depends on the correct choice of pipe diameter. If there is a lot of water on the site, you should choose the largest pipes.
Perforated drainage pipes with a diameter of 110 mm are capable of collecting moisture from the ground within a radius of about 5 meters. This figure should be taken into account when drawing up a plan for the sewerage system.
In order for water to be removed more efficiently, it is necessary to lay the entire drainage system on a slope. The drainage well should be located below all other elements of the system.
During installation, it is necessary to sprinkle pipes with perforations.

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How the drainage system works and types of drainage

The principle of operation of the drainage system is that artificial barriers are created from trenches filled with bulk materials - sand and crushed stone - on the path of groundwater movement. At the bottom of the trenches, pipes with perforated walls, called drains, are laid with a certain slope. Groundwater, falling into such trenches, is filtered through sand and gravel and accumulates in drain pipes, and then is removed by gravity from the site.

There are several main types of drainage:

Surface drainage.
Deep drainage.
Reservoir drainage.
Wall drainage.

Surface drainage is carried out to protect the site from flooding by surface waters. In this case, the depth of the trenches is no more than 50 cm.

When installing deep drainage, the depth of the drains can reach several meters. Reservoir drainage is arranged in the presence of pressurized groundwater, when the use of other drainage systems is not enough.

Reservoir drainage usually consists of a layer of sand up to 30cm thick, with strips of crushed stone several meters apart, which can be laid under the entire building.

Wall drainage is used to protect basements and foundations from flooding.

The procedure for the construction of the drainage system

For the drainage device, first of all, determine at what level the groundwater is in relation to the depth of the foundations and to the soil surface. The exact mark of groundwater can be determined using engineering surveys, but if this is not possible, then information can be obtained by interviewing neighbors, especially if their houses have basements.

If the groundwater rises to a level less than 2.5 meters from the ground surface, then drainage must be performed.

Next, determine the place where you will discharge water from the drainage system. Of course, it is advisable to invite surveyors who can perform high-altitude surveys of the site and the surrounding area using precision instruments. But, if this is not possible, then the nearest water bodies - a river, a lake or ravines can be a reference point. They are always the lowest points of the terrain.

Then determine what types of drainage you need to build. If it is established that the site is frequently and abundantly flooded with groundwater, then perform deep drainage to protect the garden and wall drainage for the foundations of the house.

If there are no reservoirs or ravines nearby for water discharge, make a water absorption well with a depth of at least 3 meters. Fill the bottom of such a well with several layers of sand and gravel so that the water is filtered into the lower layers of the soil.

Drainage trench construction technology

The procedure for installing a drainage trench is as follows:

First, fill the bottom with coarse sand with a layer of 50 mm thick.
Lay the drainage pipe with a slope of 0.002 (2mm per 1 running meter) in clay soils and 0.003 (3mm per 1 running meter) in sandy soils. If the lower point of the drain is located with a difference of several meters from the level of the site, then it is better to make a slope of up to 5-10 mm per 1 running meter. Wrap the drainage pipe with a special cloth - geotextile and cover it with a layer of washed gravel of 10-20mm fraction with a thickness of 30-40cm.
Next, lay another layer of coarse sand 10-20cm thick. Top up the entire structure with soil previously removed from the trench. Cover the top of the trench with a layer of turf to prevent silting of the drain.
Lay the pipes, as in a regular sewage system, in straight lines, and arrange inspection and rotary wells at bends.

How to make wall drainage and garden protection

Wall drainage is designed to protect the foundations of the house and basement walls from flooding.

When installing wall drainage, on the wall, perform a gluing waterproofing made of "Dreniz" type material, which consists of a polymer waterproof and filtering geotextile layers.

Lay the drainage pipe around the perimeter of the house at a distance of at least 1 meter from the wall and not below the level of the base of the foundation. To ensure drainage, determine the lowest elevation of the bottom of the well at one of the corners of the house closest to the discharge point, and lay pipes from it with the required slope to other corners of the house.

To protect the garden and vegetable garden, carry out a drainage system in the form of a "herringbone" in the plan with the laying of trenches to a depth of about 1 meter. At the same time, keep in mind that one pipe can drain up to 15-20m2 of the area. The side pipes must be 60-70mm in diameter, and the main collector pipe must be at least 100mm in diameter. Connect the drainage pipes using fittings - tees and elbows, as well as sewer pipes.

Drainage materials

For the drainage device, use asbestos-cement, ceramic and polymer pipes. Make your own cuts in asbestos-cement and ceramic pipes. If you have to make cuts in asbestos-cement or ceramic pipes, then you need to know the following. Make the cuts with a width of 4-5 mm, and the length of the cut should be half the diameter of the pipe, and they should be located alternately on both sides of the pipe after 50 cm. Lay pipes with cuts so that the cuts are horizontal.

Modern manufacturers now offer a large selection of polyethylene, plastic and PVC pipes with ready-made perforations. When choosing pipes with ready-made perforations, you need to know that plastic pipes can be laid at a depth of no more than 1 meter, polyethylene pipes no more than 3 meters, PVC pipes have the greatest strength and can be used at great depths - up to 10 m.

Swivel, water intake and inspection wells for the drainage system are made of reinforced concrete rings 600 mm high, the diameter of which should be from 400 to 700 mm. At the bottom of the wells, make concrete trays with a slope towards the general drain. Now on the construction market you can buy ready-made PVC wells with a diameter of 315mm and a depth of up to 3m.

Observing all these instructions, you will be able to do drainage with your own hands on your site without there.

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Features and principle of operation of perforated drainage pipes

Perforated drainage pipes are the backbone of deep drainage.

Thanks to the use of just such pipes that well remove excess moisture from the soil, you can maintain the required water balance.

At the same time, the territory of the site and the house will be protected from the negative impact of waterlogging, which occurs with heavy precipitation and a high level of groundwater.

Perforated pipe is a highly efficient product, which today is most often made from plastic, namely HDPE and PVC.

Plastic is of the highest quality and durability, reliability and affordable price, which has led the material to a leading position in the ranking.

It successfully replaced ceramics and asbestos cement and became the material of choice for all modern developers and construction companies.

Such pipes are the best option for carrying out a drainage system in a private house or summer cottage.

They will provide excellent drainage of water from the territory and will deliver excess moisture to special reservoirs, ditches or artificially created wells.

Features and principle of operation of drainage pipes without perforation

This material can be used absolutely everywhere, since it has the highest technical and quality characteristics.

kanalizaciyasam.ru

Prerequisites for the organization of drainage

Drainage is an expensive system, even if you do not have to pay for the services of specialists and the owner of the site is ready to do all the work on his own. Therefore, you should figure out how much it is needed at all.

It is impossible to determine the need for a system device "by eye", because groundwater can lie close to the surface, which becomes a real problem only during floods or heavy rains.

Many sites are located in lowlands. Waterlogged soil causes root rot, which creates many difficulties in caring for a vegetable garden and garden.

Plants often infect fungal diseases and mold. Some crops do not take root on wet soil, and the crop rots on the vine.

Dense clayey soils do not absorb water well. This leads to frequent flooding of underground parts of buildings. Due to the high degree of mineralization, flood and atmospheric waters negatively affect buildings: they destroy building materials, provoke corrosion.

Even high-quality waterproofing is not 100% capable of preventing basements, foundations, and plinths from getting wet. As a result, the buildings serve much less than they could.

It is possible to determine whether drainage is needed on a site by several signs:

Terrain relief... Areas located in lowlands and on steep slopes require a drainage system. Otherwise, fertile soils can be eroded or flooded during rains and floods.
Puddles... The flat terrain is convenient for construction, but puddles can appear and remain on it for a long time. This is a clear sign that water is poorly absorbed into the soil. A drainage system should be installed throughout the site.
Rotting the root system of plants... If excess liquid remains in the gardens, flower beds and lawns, the plants grow out and get sick.
Moisture-loving plants... If one or more types of moisture-loving plants grow on the site, this clearly indicates waterlogging of the soil.
Flooding basements and cellars... An obvious "symptom" of the need for drainage is flooding of foundations and underground building structures.
Hydrogeological research and observation... If experts have determined that there is a high groundwater level on the site, or similar conclusions can be reached during excavation work, you should take care of soil drainage.

Proper laying of drainage pipes on site is the only way to inexpensively and effectively get rid of excess water.

If you contact a specialized company, the system will cost significantly more. It is better to understand the features of the drainage arrangement and do everything yourself.

The principle of the drainage system

Drainage of soils at the site can be closed immersed in the ground, and open, which is a network of open grooves.

In the first case, the system is designed to drain groundwater if it floods the site. In the second, drainage provides a decrease in soil moisture during the flood and rain season.

Both types of systems can be designed and installed in-house.

Depending on whether it is necessary to collect moisture from the entire site or only from individual zones, drainages are equipped with linear and point water intakes.

Systems of the first type require careful design; when arranging them, it is necessary to strictly observe the laying technology and the slope angle of the drainage pipes.

V linear variants, it becomes necessary if you need to drain the areas around buildings, paths, entrances, improve the local area or remove excess moisture from the garden.

Such drains are shallow ditches where water flows, and then moves to special receiving tanks, storm sewers or to a discharge point outside the site.

Point water basins it is also imperative to accurately calculate and design in advance. They serve for local collection of water, but are connected to a similar linear system of ditches or pipes.

Through the indicated drainage channels, the collected water is discharged in the same way into the collector well and further into the absorption well, gutter or pond. Therefore, work on the construction of systems with point water intakes is not much different from systems with linear options.

Open systems they are very simple and cheap, but they spoil the landscape with an unaesthetic appearance. Another disadvantage is that the walls of the ditches have to be constantly corrected, because they crumble under the influence of moisture, and the system ceases to perform its functions (water stagnates at the bottom of the trenches and does not move to the place of discharge).

To solve the problem of shedding the walls of the ditches, you can use the method of dumping with rubble: the material of the coarse fraction is laid on the bottom, and the fine fraction on top, after which the entire drainage cushion is covered with turf.

This option allows you not to trim or strengthen the walls of the trenches, but it is suitable for areas with relatively low humidity, because the throughput of the ditch is greatly reduced.

The use of polymer and concrete trays in the construction of open drainage greatly facilitates and speeds up the work. In order to improve the landscape and protect the systems from clogging, such open systems are covered with cast iron gratings.

For arrangement closed system use special perforated pipes - drains, laid to the depth of the foundation. They are laid in pre-formed ditches, covered with material with excellent filtering properties, gravel, fine gravel or GPS. To monitor the operation of the system and carry out periodic cleaning, inspection wells are installed in the corners of the building.

Average values can be used to determine how to properly lay the drainage pipe to protect plants from excess moisture. As a rule, the optimal depth is 0.6-1.5 m.

Moreover, for flower beds, lawns, beds, it does not exceed 0.9 m, and to protect the rhizomes of trees, you need to dig the deepest trenches, especially if the site is located on peat soils.

Types and parameters for the selection of drainage pipes

From all materials for the manufacture of pipes most popular polymers... Their undeniable advantages are durability, resistance to chemicals and smooth inner walls, on which dirt does not stick. Stormwater and groundwater flow into the pipeline and freely move to the catchment areas by gravity.

The drainage system, assembled from modern materials, can serve up to half a century. The main thing is to install it correctly, carry out technical inspections on time and not ignore the need for repairs.

Another advantage of polymers is their relatively low cost. ready-made drainage is inexpensive, practical and durable.

Perfect solution - geotextile sheathed pipe... The outer material filters water, trapping dirt. This prevents the pipelines from getting silted up.

Alternative to drain pipes - ordinary sewer... You can easily make drainage from them with your own hands - for this, you just need to drill holes in the products, and wrap them with geotextile fabric on top.

If a local drainage system is required, pipes with a diameter of 100-200 mm can be dispensed with, and if it is necessary to remove moisture from a large area or too much water, it is better to choose products with a diameter of 300-400 mm. Optimal choice - special drain pipe with filter cover.

Pipeline laying technology

When arranging drainage, the relief of the site is of fundamental importance. The system must be constructed so that there are no problems with the outflow of fluid into the ditches. If there are no results of geodetic surveys, you should draw up a diagram yourself, marking on it the places where the rainwater is drained.

Care must be taken when creating a circuit, because errors will render drainage ineffective. Based on the finished drawing, they outline how to lay and tilt the drainage pipe and where to install the water collectors. After checking the data, markings are made on the ground and work begins.

The pipeline leads to a drainage well. If it is long and located on a flat area, they equip inspection wells at each 50 m section. They are also needed at the places of turns and bends of the pipeline, where the slope changes.

A drainage well can also be built with your own hands. It consists of a bottom, a shaft with a mouth and a hatch. The dimensions of the well must be large enough so that a person can go down into it and clean it of silt. If it is not possible to equip a dimensional well, then it should be equipped so that you can wash the walls with a hose and scoop out the dirt.

Concrete, plastic, brick can be used as materials for the manufacture of wells.

The strongest and most durable structures are made of reinforced concrete well rings. They have a large diameter and are easy to service. Minus - difficulties with installation due to the large mass. As a rule, you have to attract assistants or use special equipment.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

During the development of the scheme and during the construction of the drainage, some difficulties may arise. So that they do not become an obstacle to high-quality drainage of water from the site, check out the useful video materials.

Features of the arrangement of the drainage system at the site:

How to equip drainage in the country using available tools:

Features of arranging drainage in the garden:

Polymer drainage structure:

How to properly lay the drainage pipes:

It will take time and effort to lay the drainage pipe with your own hands, but the costs will only be for materials. Don't skimp on them: get good quality pipes and wells. An effective drainage system will protect the planting of cultivated plants, a house, farm buildings from moisture and will serve for many years. The main thing is not to forget to inspect and clean wells and drains in a timely manner.

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The reliability and efficiency of the drainage system directly depends on both a correctly drawn up project and the choice of its elements. Perforated drainage pipes must be laid according to the process and connected accordingly.

Almost all perforated drainage HDPE pipes have a corrugated surface. This design allows for a small wall thickness without loss of rigidity. Therefore, even large-diameter products are relatively light in weight. This greatly simplifies installation when it is required to organize the drainage of the site.

Photo: perforated pipe manufacturer Ruvinil

Pipes for drainage systems, equipped with perforations, are two-layer and single-layer. In the former, the inner surface is made smooth in order to facilitate the movement of debris (sand, soil particles, etc.) that enters the sewer system. This reduces the likelihood of "overgrowth" of the pipe.

In single-layer pipes, both surfaces (inner and outer) are corrugated. This design allows for greater flexibility, therefore single-wall structures are excellent for organizing drainage in the area next to the house.

Due to the greater rigidity, the laying of double-layer pipes for drainage systems can be carried out to a depth of six meters. For single-layer structures, the limit is two meters.

When connecting the elements of the drainage system, the same fittings are used as for ordinary PVC pipes. Despite the fact that the sewage system is considered non-pressure, it is not recommended to use adhesive tape to fasten the pipes, as some "masters" suggest. The reliability of such an attachment is rather dubious.

Drainage fittings

Almost all pipes for drainage systems are equipped with filter elements. There is a certain limitation regarding their shelf life. For example, perforated drainage pipes, in the filter of which geotextiles are installed, can be stored in a warehouse for up to one year.

For a material based on coconut fibers, this period is limited to six months.

The territory of the site can be located in a swampy area, a humid lowland or not far from a reservoir, that is, in places that do not meet the accepted standard. In this case, a drainage system is installed around the house and the site.

This solution will provide reliable protection to the foundation, and will also prevent rain and groundwater from accumulating in the adjacent territory.

The principle of operation of the drainage system is as follows:

surface and ground water through perforated holes in a pipe embedded in the soil enters the sewage system;
along it they are taken to the place of accumulation or disposal (for example, a drainage or collection well).

Those who are going to make a do-it-yourself drainage system need to pay attention to the following points:

the effectiveness of drainage depends on the correct choice of the diameter of the pipe;
a perforated drainage pipe with a diameter of 110 mm collects water within a radius of five meters (this should be taken into account when planning a drainage system);
to drain groundwater, it is necessary to observe the slope towards the septic tank or drainage well;
connecting all the elements of the system with each other, one should adhere to the technology of this process;
it is imperative that pipes are sprinkled when they are laid, and one should also not forget about the drainage layer.

The correct installation of the drainage pipe around the house is shown in the figure.

Designations shown in the figure:

A - fill soil or sod;
B - waterproof layer (this role can be played by a polyethylene film);
C - thermal insulation layer, recommended thickness 100mm;
D - slope angle, as a rule, one centimeter by one meter (towards the storage well);
E - filler;
F - waterproofing coating of the basement of the building;
G, K - drainage layer;
H - storm sewer;
J - drainage pipe;
L - hole in the base of the foundation.

Theoretically, it is possible to organize a drainage system without a ditch, but its efficiency will be low, so we will not consider this option.

When the main drainage system passes under the roadbed intended for the movement of heavy vehicles, GOST indicates that the laying depth should be at least one meter. In this case, a "pillow" is created under the pipe, at least 50 mm thick. The composition of the leveling layer (cushion) can be made of sand or crushed stone with a grain size of up to 32mm.

Pipes with thin walls are laid in places where they will not be subjected to high loads, that is, near the house or in the area adjacent to it.

Crushed stone and sand are used as sprinkling, layer thickness from 50mm. Its purpose is to protect the drainage line from mechanical damage and, at the same time, not to prevent the ingress of groundwater into the system.

A prerequisite is equipping with geotextiles or geotextiles, which act as a filter that does not allow debris to enter the system. It can cause blockages. The pipe is wrapped with geotextile, or the filter casing is laid on the bottom and walls of the ditch.

It is recommended to use a pipeline with a diameter of 110 mm, this is the most optimal option for organizing drainage in an area near the house. Despite the fact that the price for double pipes with perforation is higher than for single ones, it is better to buy them for the drainage system. In this case, there is less risk of clogging.

To ensure high efficiency of removing water from the soil, it is required to install a separate well, the cover of which is better made with a lattice. It will be supplied with water from the storm-type sewerage system. In this case, you do not have to worry about filling the septic tank.

The drainage system must be independent of the storm, otherwise there is a high risk of flooding the building foundation with water. At the same time, the large diameter of the double (smooth-walled) drainage pipe will not save the situation.

As a rule, storm and drainage sewers are laid side by side, observing one slope angle. Each of them can be directed to a common well if a reverse-acting valve is installed on its inlet pipe. It will prevent water from entering the drainage system.

The device of such a valve is shown in the figure.

Reverse Acting Valve Schematic

A - a valve that opens under the influence of the incoming flow;
B - valve spring;
С - working flow (in our case, water from storm or drainage sewers).

It is desirable to drain water from the collector wells into the communal storm sewer system. If this is not possible, water can be supplied to an open drain, or drained onto a specially prepared layer of rubble, where it will be absorbed by the soil.

Collector well laying

There are many options for utilizing water accumulated by drainage and storm water wells; implementation examples are a separate topic.

Perforated drainage pipes require periodic maintenance to remove debris. In addition, it will be necessary to clean the collector well from the accumulation of sludge. Then you should check the correct position of the check valve.

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Drainage pipes: what they are and how they work

They are also called drains. They perform the functions of receiving and discharging water, which are so necessary and important for draining the area. The system of interconnected drains is called drainage.

The principle of their operation is simple and straightforward, therefore the owners of land plots most often make the drainage system on their own. Drains are laid along or around the site (structure) with a slope of 1% (1 cm per meter) towards any drainage basin (ditch, collector well, pit, canal, reservoir) or the lowest point of the terrain. Gravel, sand and soil are poured on top.

Drains are drainage (suction) and collective. There are holes on the walls of the drainage pipes, located in a certain order. It is through the walls and joints that water enters the drains and is transferred to collectors (drainage wells), and from there, through the collecting cavities, it is discharged beyond the boundaries of the drained area. Thus, a sufficiently thick, dry, stable piece of land is formed.

Varieties of drainage pipes

In the modern world, with the advent of new technologies, the requirements for drainage systems are constantly growing. The use of outdated schemes and materials is impractical and difficult.

Asbestos-cement pipes, as well as ceramic ones, are already a thing of the past. They were replaced by plastic drainage materials - lightweight, comfortable, flexible, non-corrosive, reliable, safe and durable. They can withstand high temperature fluctuations (-70 to + 50 ° C) and are easy to install, so you can easily install them with your own hands. For their manufacture, use:

vinyl plastic or PVC-U (unplasticized polyvinyl chloride);
HDPE and PVC polyethylene (low and high density).

Where are drain pipes used

Drainage pipes have found application not only in everyday life for the removal of excess groundwater from foundations and plinths and the construction of drainage wells, but also in civil and industrial construction (land reclamation, laying of highways). For each case, it is necessary to correctly select the size and manufacturing technology of the elements.

Dimensions (edit)

When choosing drainage pipes, it is important to correctly determine their size. The performance of the entire system depends on the diameter of the drains. For domestic needs, materials with a diameter of 200 mm will be sufficient, and for draining a large volume of water, pipes with a diameter of 300–400 mm will be needed. The most common are elements with a diameter of 110 mm.

To accurately determine the size, you need to consider:

soil texture;
the level of freezing and soil moisture;
planned volumes of drainage;
the depth of the pipe (there is a maximum allowable depth for each diameter);
the width of the trench. It should be 40 cm larger than the pipe diameter.

Drains with a diameter over 300-400 mm are considered industrial, in everyday life they are used to build wells. The drainage system does not always consist of elements of the same diameter, in which case a reducer (adapter) is required for the connection.

Design features

The main difference between a drain and a conventional pipe is the presence of perforation (partial or complete). With full perforation, 1.3 mm holes are spaced every 60 ° around the circumference of the cross section. Partial perforation provides three slots in the upper part of the shell. Holes are made between the corrugations (ribs), which ensure the rigidity and durability of the system.

To create shallow drainage, where materials are laid at a shallow depth, single-layer corrugated drains with a hardness class of 2–4 kN / m² are perfect.

Double-layer drains, which have high strength and stiffness class, are usually used to solve more global problems that require deep backfill. In places with a high probability of clogging (sand, small grains of soil), drains with a filtering layer or special filtering material are used.

Types of drainage pipes

To create a drainage system, the following types can be used:

ceramic;
asbestos-cement;
polymer.

The first two types are used less and less over the years. Affected by their high cost and low service life.

Polymer pipes have a number of advantages, the main of which are low cost of assembly and operation, high service life and the ability to make a drainage system with your own hands.

Perforated pipes

Almost all polymer pipes have a corrugated surface and a small wall thickness. Therefore, drainage products, even with a large diameter, are lightweight, which facilitates the organization of drainage as a whole.

Can you make the perforation yourself? It is possible, but not desirable, unless you are an expert in materials science and higher mathematics. The factory perforation is thought out to the smallest detail and is ideal in geometry. Made in a handicraft way, it will be unreliable - the slightest mistake can affect the operation of the entire system and lead to the formation of a swamp instead of land reclamation.

The holes are made in the form of narrow and long slots to minimize debris entering the pipes. The number of such slots per circle is almost the same for all manufacturers:

360 ° - holes are located generally around the entire circumference. Such perforation is used in heavily flooded areas with approximately equal amounts of groundwater and atmospheric precipitation;
240 ° - the lower segment in 1/3 of the perimeter of the section circle remains unperforated. These pipes have performed well as drainage bases in areas with heterogeneous soil or natural slope;
180 ° - is called in everyday life a half, it is used on an area where one type of water exceeds another (for example, there is much more melt water than ground water or vice versa) or as an application to storm drains;
120 ° - infrequently used configuration, used for low-volume surface drainage.

The main trump card of perforated pipes is that they work across the entire surface. This ensures efficient drainage, clean channels and drains.

Pipes in geotextile

Geotextile - a braid for perforated elements that protects the holes from clogging. Drains in such a braid are well suited for loamy and sandy soils. For domestic drainage pipes, geotextiles with a density of 100-200 g / m² are used, although it is also denser - up to 600 g / m².

The higher the density, the higher the price, therefore, the selection of geotextile fabric should be rational, so as not to unnecessarily increase the cost of drainage work. In addition to drainage geotextiles, other varieties are produced: road and needle-punched, so if you buy this material separately, pay attention to its purpose.

Key functions of geotextile braiding:

reinforcement - strengthening the bearing capacity of the base;
surface protection - preventing (or limiting) damage to the working part of the pipe;
drainage - collection and removal of precipitation and groundwater;
filtration of impurities - retention of sand and soil (anti-suffusion screen).

Ceramic pipes

They are made from lamellar clay with possible additives. There are perforated ceramic pipes with a corrugated outer surface (grooves increase the absorption properties).

According to GOST standards, three types of pipes are produced: cylindrical, six- or octagonal. All varieties have a geometrically regular cross-sectional shape:

inner contour - a circle;
the outer contour is a polygon or circle.

Ceramic pipes do not have sockets. In drainage systems, they are connected to each other by means of couplings and clamps.

HDPE pipes

HDPE is probably the best pipes for modern drainage systems. They are distinguished by an extended service life (50 years), strength (withstand water freezing), and elasticity. For plastic pipes, a wide variety of connecting elements and fittings are produced, so a system of any length and configuration can be built on them. Such drains are the basis of underground drainage.

They have good carrying capacity, are multifunctional, therefore they are successfully used in private, civil and industrial construction. HDPE are perforated from all sides, only on top or with alternating rows of holes and a smooth surface.

The principle of operation and the process of laying them is the same as for other types of pipes.

Experienced builders advise, for greater efficiency, to use corrugated HDPE pipes, laying them in crushed stone.

Polypropylene pipes

Polypropylene drains are very popular due to their properties:

long service life and high stability;
the ability to withstand high loads and high pressure in the system;
ease of transportation and assembly;
good self-cleaning due to smooth walls inside;
counteracting clogging and flooding.

To connect them, thermal welding (soldering iron) is needed, but PP pipes connected in this way form a monolithic structure. And this is their main advantage.

In a word, drainage polypropylene materials are an impeccable ratio of price and quality.

Coconut Wrapped Pipes

Coconut fiber is a type of filter material. This harness has its pros and cons:

100% natural composition;
high resistance to deformation, decay and mold;
elasticity;
excellent moisture permeability;
reliable protection against clogging;
the ability to standardize (bring together) the drainage system with storm and sewerage.

Of the shortcomings, only a considerable price should be noted. However, taking into account the mass of positive qualities and the period for which the system will be laid in the ground, it is worth paying the most serious attention to drainage materials with a coconut coating.

PVC pipes

Made from polyvinyl chloride. Like all drainage materials, they are used to drain the area, drain water from the upper layers of roads, and protect buildings from excessive moisture. They are mainly used for deep drainage, since such modifications, according to the norms, have a good filling depth (up to 10 m from the surface) and have:

high strength;
resistance to a variety of chemical elements;
a good guarantee from the manufacturer.

The only drawback is that these products are very sensitive to impacts in cold weather and can deform, so their transportation in cold weather is difficult, it must be done very carefully to avoid losses.

Pipes with expanded polystyrene

Drainage pipes with expanded polystyrene filling are suitable for wide application. This is a great alternative to other types of polymer materials that are recommended to be laid in crushed stone. Crushed stone is not needed here, unless it is part of the support structure.

When choosing, you should consider:

the length of the entire drainage system and its capacity;
ground water level;
the place of the catchment area;
the estimated pressure of water in and out of the system;
type of soil and its permeability.

The undoubted advantage of such pipes is that their length can be easily reduced with the help of improvised wire, clamp or rope.

Chrysotile cement pipes

Chrysotile is white asbestos, environmentally friendly without any toxic and harmful impurities. It is not hazardous to human health, therefore pipes from it are used when setting up a wide variety of pipelines, including the drainage system.

A distinctive feature of such products is the penetration of water not through the holes in the walls, but through the pores. They can be used in any soil: cohesive, non-cohesive, acidic and alkaline, with high mineralization.

excellent water permeability;
long service life (over 25 years);
high strength: withstand high pressure (up to 5.8 MPa) and strong mechanical stress;
increased bookmark depth;
simple and straightforward connections;
reasonable prices and optimal level of cross-country ability.

Cons: Transporting, moving and assembling large diameter pipes requires special construction equipment, which makes installation expensive

Drainage pipe manufacturers

The construction market offers a huge range of imported and domestic drainage products. Among our manufacturers, the most famous are such enterprises as Ruvinil, Naskhorn, Politek, KamaPolymer LLC and others. Products from Polieco, Uponor, Wavin and Rehau are popular among foreign suppliers.

Drainage pipes "Perfokor"

Perforated polyethylene products. Designed for the assembly of sound drainage systems. They have increased resistance to aggressive weather conditions due to the double wall inside white (smooth) and black outside (corrugated). The stiffness of the rings ranges from SN4 (in 50 meter bays) to SN8 (in 6 meter sections).

Produced in Russia according to the standards prescribed in technical specifications 2248–004–73011750–2007. For various diameters, it is possible to use a wide range of Korsis fittings (bends, tees, couplings, adapters, plastic wells), and drains Ø 110–160 mm are perfectly connected without the use of O-rings with ECOPAL couplings.

Drainage pipes "Korsis"

Specialized for the arrangement of storm drains and free-flow sewerage systems. Made of high quality polyethylene according to the standards of technical conditions 2248–001–73011750–2005, have a double wall - black corrugation outside and white smooth inside (or yellow for PR-2 and PR-3 circuits).

Fitted components "Korsis" are used for connection to the system. Moreover, elements of large diameter (from 250 mm to 1200 mm) are produced with an already welded socket, therefore, only one sealing ring is used during assembly. Smaller pipes are connected by a Korsis coupling and two rubber O-rings.

The main manufacturer is the POLYPLASTIC group, which has its own facilities in many regions of Russia, Kazakhstan, Belarus and Ukraine.

Drainage pipes "Pragma"

This is a development by PipiLife for the needs of stormwater, municipal and industrial drainage, for drainage during road construction. The material is a special type of polypropylene (PP-b), which is not vulnerable to impacts and perfectly withstands powerful drains and large temperature differences (-60 ° C to + 100 ° C). This makes Pragma drains compare favorably with PVC pipes.

The high ring stiffness of 8 kN / m² makes them indispensable in particularly difficult laying conditions. The undoubted advantages of Pragma materials: they are easily mounted, freely cut and easily interconnected with each other, with HDPE and PVC pipes, sewer smooth-walled routes, as well as with polymer and concrete wells. Assembly and installation do not require the use of heavy construction equipment, which saves on construction and installation work.

Drainage pipes "Softrock"

Manufactured using the technology of the foreign company SoftRock. Fields of application: closed drainage of a septic tank, land plot, basement, foundation, roof drain. They gained popularity pretty quickly. The main advantage is that it is simple and fast to work with them. Drainage system SoftRock consists of a flexible perforated pipe with expanded polystyrene filler of Russian production ("cube") or imported ("hedgehog"). The SoftRock design eliminates the need for rubble and increases drainage efficiency by 20-50%.

Video: installation of the Softrock drainage system

Storm sewer pipes

Stormwater pipes will help to divert melt and rainwater from the building. Together with gutters, trays and storm water inlets, they form an overground or underground storm sewer and ensure the safety and durability of the structure. Requirements for materials: strength, resistance to solar and mechanical influences, sedimentary reagents, temperature extremes.

For the construction of the drain, cast iron, polymer or reinforced concrete pipes are used (laying under the roads). It is important to choose the right diameter so that there is no overflow of storm drains. For private houses, sewer pipes Ø 100 mm are used.

Drainage pipes for groundwater drainage

They are the basis of drainage systems. They collect water and remove it off-site. They help to cope with high soil moisture, dampness in cellars, the appearance of mold and permafrost, the formation of puddles and ice on paved surfaces, and prevent rotting of the root system of plants.

Waterproofing (foundation, walls) is not always effective. An effective drainage system is needed. Choosing its design, first determine the type of soil and only then proceed with the purchase of material. To keep the drainage network running smoothly, drains are placed at a specially calculated depth. To do this, two conditions must be met:

lay pipes below the level of soil freezing;
lay at least 50 cm deeper than the lower mark of the base of buildings (near which drainage is carried out).

For deep laying of the necessary, use pipes with increased strength (double-sided pipe).

Table: drainage for different soils

Laying a drainage pipe with your own hands

A large accumulation of groundwater can cause irreparable damage, for example, flood the foundation, as a result of which a house built, it would seem, for centuries will shrink. The roof, walls, doors and windows will skew. Excessive humidity will affect the health of those living in the house, because mold and mildew will constantly form in the wettest places. You can avoid all this by installing even the simplest, but high-quality drainage system.

Ditch preparation:
- first, a marking is made of all ditches and a place for a collector well, into which groundwater will be discharged. It is imperative that there is a slope towards the water intake, otherwise the water will stagnate in the pipes. If the surface of the site is uneven, then ditches are dug along the relief. On a flat surface, the slope is created artificially;
- the number of trenches depends on the type of soil and the degree of its moisture. On clay soils, drains are laid more often. The depth of the ditches depends on the type of drainage, but not less than 0.5 m, the width increases as it approaches the catchment (well);
- when the trenches are dug, the bottom is prepared for laying the materials. An amortization cushion is created - a 10-centimeter layer of granular sand and on top of this is the same layer of crushed stone, on which drains are already laid in geotextile winding (for other types of drains, geotextiles are laid in such a way as to cover pipes when filling them).
Pipe laying and system assembly. The drainage is laid out in ditches and connected to each other using fittings (crosses, tees, couplings), forming a single network. After laying the pipes and assembling the system, you need to make a control check of the slope using an ordinary household cord stretched along the line of passage of the elements. In places of turning and where the angle of inclination changes, it is imperative to install inspection chambers with covers to clean the entire system.
Connection of drainage elements to each other. The most important thing when connecting is good sealing:
- one of the simplest ways is to plant PVC pipes on glue: the degreased surface of a joint with a smaller diameter is coated with glue, the elements are connected, and the joint is once again processed with moisture-resistant glue;
- you can use heat welding (only for polypropylene types): the joints are warmed up, the pipes are joined and left to cool. Molten polypropylene, solidifying, provides good tightness;
- small diameter elements can be connected with compressor fittings and turnbuckles. The quality of the joint is not inferior to welding in terms of strength.
Backfilling. After checking the operation of the system, it is backfilled (if the system is of a closed type). For better water permeability, the pipes are sprinkled with gravel or crushed stone, covered with geotextiles, and then with a layer of sand (10-15 cm). The earth is poured on top above the soil level. Precipitation will pass, snow will fall and over time, the land mounds will settle and level with the surface of the site. The open drainage system is decorated with crushed stone of various sizes. If the last layer is decorated with marble chips, and plants are planted along the edges of the ditches, you will get a unique landscape design.

Video: do-it-yourself open drainage from pipes and improvised iron

Drainage pipe cleaning

A clogged drainage system is not able to fully perform its functions, so it is important to periodically clean it to get rid of limescale build-up inside.

Mechanical method

Different methods are used depending on the location of the system. If it lies on the surface, then you can manually clean it yourself. With deep drainage, you will need a pneumatic unit with a cleaning roller and a special nozzle for crushing large growths. Cleaning should be done every 3-4 years.

Excessive moisture on the site harms not only plantings, but also buildings. Plant roots in water rot under the influence of pathogenic bacteria. Few crops are able to survive in excessively moist soil. Groundwater is a great threat to the foundations and basements of houses.

A fungus forms here, as a result of which the building can gradually collapse. To reduce soil moisture, special drainage systems are created.

The main function of the drainage system is to collect excess moisture from the site. Water enters the site in two ways: from above in the form of precipitation, and from below in the form of groundwater. If the soil moisture is normal, precipitation is quickly absorbed into the ground, and groundwater does not cause problems for plants and buildings. In this case, there is no need for a drainage system.

It is necessary to drain the area where the soil remains constantly moist. There are a number of signs that allow you to determine that the site needs a drainage system. Drainage should be installed:

If, after precipitation, puddles remain on the surface of the earth, which do not dry out for a long time.
When cultivated plants die quickly for no apparent reason.
If the basement of the house is always damp, fungal growths quickly form on the walls.
The soil is always moist, even in the warm season when there is no rainfall.
Of the weeds on the site, those that love moisture (nettles, cattails) prevail.
There are rivers, ponds, lakes or swamps in the immediate vicinity of the site.

All these signs indicate that the groundwater is no deeper than 1.5 m from the surface of the earth. This means that it is necessary to create an adequate drainage system for the site.

It is important! When landscaping a new site, it is necessary to pay attention to the condition of houses and soil from neighbors. If the above signs are found in their areas, then the groundwater in this place is high and it is better to install the drainage system right away.

What is the drainage system

The drainage system consists of drainage pipes and drainage wells. The pipes are perforated: along their entire length they have through holes located at a distance from each other. Install pipes at an angle so that water can flow through them to the wells.

There are several types of wells:

Rotary or inspection chambers. They are installed in the places where the pipes are turned. They are needed to revise the system and clean it up as needed.
Filter wells. In them, water is filtered through layers of sand, gravel and gravel and goes into the deep layers of the soil.
Water intake wells. They must be installed where water cannot independently penetrate into the soil at a certain depth. For example, if there is too much groundwater. The intake wells are connected to drainage pumps that pump water into natural reservoirs or sewers.

Land owners often face the problem of excess water after melting snow, rains, or high groundwater levels. Excessive moisture is harmful not only to plant roots, but also leads to flooding of basements and even to premature destruction of building foundations. The installation of a drainage system will help to cope with this problem. It is an engineering structure, due to which storm and ground water is discharged outside the site.

The system includes point drains and linear channels. The drainage system is a gravity system. Pipes (drains) are laid with a uniform slope (1-3 cm per meter of length). This is especially important for silty soils. The slide should go away from the house. Inspection wells are arranged at the bends of the pipes. They make the system easier to maintain. Straight sections are equipped with wells every 30-50 meters.

Layout of drains on the site according to the "herringbone" scheme

Drains on the site are laid out according to the herringbone pattern. The diameter of the auxiliary pipes is 75 millimeters, the main pipe is 100 millimeters. Through the central pipe, water is discharged outside the site.

Do not lay pipes close to the house and the fence. The distance from the foundation to the pipe is at least 1 meter.

Drainage types

Drainage can be done open and closed. The choice of drainage system depends on the climate, type of soil. The level of groundwater is also important.

Open drainage is the simplest drainage device. Water flows through the ditches to a predetermined place. Drainage trays with decorative grilles are also used. The most important thing here is the bias.... It should be 2-3 centimeters per meter in length.
The closed option is more common. These are branched drainage systems located in the ground. At the bottom of the trench, pipes or rubble are placed. Brushwood or large stones are also suitable for this. The main thing is that the material conducts water. To make the water decrease faster, the slope is made 2–5 centimeters per meter of length.

Open system

A ditch is dug along the perimeter of the site and the house. Width should be 40-50 centimeters, depth 50-60 centimeters. The slope is made to the common water intake trench. For better drainage of water, the walls of the ditch are mowed at an angle of 30 degrees.

Such a system has its own characteristics:

insignificant cost;
execution of work does not take much time;
has an unaesthetic appearance;
with a large amount of water, the depth of the ditch must be increased, which increases the likelihood of falls and injuries;
over time, the wall of such a ditch collapses.

Decorative trays extend the life of the drainage system and provide a more aesthetic appearance

Trays are used to increase the service life. They can be plastic or concrete. Decorative grilles increase safety. The appearance of the site is also improved.

Modern drainage according to a linear scheme provides for the use of special parts: channels, gutters and trays, which are installed in pre-prepared ditches dug to the place where water is collected with a slope. Lattices are laid on top of such ditches.

Closed system

A pipe drain leads the water to a catchment well. Drainage drains are laid in trenches. Perforated pipes are covered with rubble and covered with geotextiles. Connected to the collector, the water is discharged to the collection well.

With the help of a network of drainage pipes, soil surplus moisture is discharged into separately located drainage wells

The closed type includes a drainage pit. A hole dug to a depth of 2 meters is filled with gravel. Excess moisture is collected in it. In the future, the water gradually goes into the soil.

Backfill drainage is similar to closed drainage, but the difference between them is that instead of pipes, in this case, the trench is half filled with large rubble or broken brick. The upper part of the trench is covered with a smaller fraction - fine stone or gravel. The top layer is made of soil. Backfill drainage is rarely used now. On clay soils, the system quickly fails. The filter media is silted up and does not allow water to pass through.

Modern drainage systems

Modern industry offers new types of drainage systems. Synthetic materials are durable and lightweight. The versatility of the parts ensures ease of assembly.

Tubular and tubeless designs have been developed. Plastic devices are environmentally friendly. The pipes are sold with and without geotextile wrapping. The drainage kit includes two-layer drains and synthetic filters.

Systems without rubble

Instead of rubble, are used synthetic aggregates... The bottom of the trench is tamped and covered with sand. Pipes are laid taking into account the slope. Layer-by-layer covered with water-permeable material tecton.

The thickness of the backfill depends on the permeability of the soil. Usually it is 100-300 millimeters. Geotextiles are laid on top and soil is filled up. Soft drainage is more expensive, but more effective than crushed stone.

Geotextile is used in drainage systems as a separating layer

Systems without pipes

According to new technologies, pipes can be replaced with a different design. Synthetic drainage mats are now available. This is a volumetric plastic mesh wrapped in geotextile. Lightweight composite products are easy to install. Their advantage is protection against siltation.

Even if the upper or lower layers of the geotextile are silted up, the drainage grid itself will continue to work perfectly and drain groundwater.

With strong soil moisture, there are enlarged systems. These are drainage tunnels and fields. Plastic elements are assembled into monumental structures. They can be used in large areas.

Softrock systems

The cassette consists of a perforated pipe and expanded polystyrene core. The construction is covered with a durable woven mesh. The top layer is made of double geotextile. Special channels improve water flow. The drainage cassette is 35-60% more efficient than the system with gravel.

The flexible pipe in the bag is 3 meters long. She is completely ready for styling. The softrock drainage system is positioned at a depth of 45 centimeters. After installation, they are covered with soil.

The softrock system uses expanded polystyrene instead of gravel

According to consumer reviews, the system is reliable and durable. Many assembled it on their own. The season does not affect the production of the work. The flexibility of the sections is especially noted, which makes it possible to bend around trees and buildings.

After the autumn showers, the water stood in the basement, it was necessary to make high-quality drainage. I remembered the rubble and in my mind figured out how many resources I needed to add to this project: time, labor, transport to transport this rubble, and then scatter it ... I looked for instructions on the Internet, came across Softrock, decided to take a risk and did not regret it. Easy, inexpensive, modern and wise: crushed foam balls tucked into the belt. Indeed, everything is ingenious - simple
Valentinehttp://softrock.ru/o-nas/otzyvy/

The pipe there is the same as that of a 110 or 160 pipe, it is the same, the filtering element is only foam plastic, with poor soils of sand and gravel, you can kill a lot and the site will turn into a swamp, and this pipe can be laid down in a landscaped area, it will work out neatly. The main thing was that that year I did 2 sections from the standard system geotextile, sand, crushed stone + pipe + crushed stone, geotextile soil. It has a surrounding layer of polystyrene, it is like a heater for drainage, and the diameter is stable 27 cm. Of course, it all depends on its purpose, it will just go along the section, and if it does not carry the load on the road.
Drenazh2013https://www.forumhouse.ru/threads/195034/page-3

Modern and high-quality drainage, if you, like me, did not know how technology stepped in this area, then look at the softrock, there is something to be surprised at. Very easy to install, no maintenance required. No rubble or problems. The outer material only allows water to pass through, it does not need to be cleaned. No, it's really very convenient.
Cinderellahttps://www.otovarah.ru/forum/topic/4373-drenazh-softrok-softrock/

Storm water drainage

The facade, foundations, and the area around the house suffer from atmospheric precipitation. The storm water drainage system includes:

roof gutters;
point storm water inlets;
storm sewer;
drainage system.

With the help of gutters and pipes, water is removed from the roof. Storm water inlets are installed under the drainpipe. They channel water through pipes into the storm sewer. Two-layer polymer drains are usually used. They are laid in trenches at a slope of 2 centimeters by 1 meter.

Drainage system and storm sewer

Rainwater must be removed from the building. For this, drainage wells or accumulators are arranged in the drainage system. Rainwater is collected in a sealed reservoir. It can be used for watering or technical purposes.

The walls of the well are reinforced with concrete rings. The depth should be at the level of the filtering soil layer. Then the water will gradually go into the soil. If such layers are deep, wells are drilled. It is necessary to take into account the level of groundwater. At a high level, the wells are ineffective.

Storm sewage for a country house should be installed simultaneously with the drainage system for a more correct calculation of water drainage

Drainage system installation: step-by-step technology

Before starting the installation, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the site, mark the natural slopes, and determine the level of groundwater. According to the scheme, mark the trenches on the ground. For this, pegs and a cord are used.

Calculation and drainage scheme

The calculation consists in determining the top and bottom points of the system. The lower point corresponds to the place where the water is discharged. The top one is chosen 30 centimeters below the foundation. The slope angle is taken at least 1%.

You need to calculate the length of the entire trench. To do this, add up the distance from the well and the length of the trench around the house. One percent of this amount is equal to the difference between the high and low points. If the water intake point is higher, a drainage pump is needed.

The correct diagram of the drainage system will help you make it yourself

The drainage system diagram indicates:

location of buildings on the site;
place of the water storage;
trunk conductor;
drainage drains.

SNiP drainage system

When designing drainage systems to prevent or eliminate flooding of territories, it is necessary to comply with the requirements of SNiP drainage 2.06.15–85, as well as SNiP 2.06.14–85 and SNiP II-52–74.

When designing, preference should be given to systems with gravity drainage. Drainage systems with forced pumping of water require additional justification.
Depending on the hydrogeological conditions, horizontal, vertical and combined drainages should be used.
The use of a drainage system should be justified by studying the water, and for the arid zone - and the salt balance of groundwater.
Implementation of horizontal drainage by open trench and trenchless method is determined by economic feasibility. In the case of arranging open horizontal drainages at a depth of up to 4 m from the earth's surface, the depth of soil freezing, as well as the possibility of overgrowing, should be taken into account.
Open canals and trenches should be arranged in cases where it is required to drain large areas with one- or two-storey buildings of low density. Their use is also possible for protection against flooding of land transport communications.
For fixing the slopes of open drainage ditches and trenches, it is necessary to use concrete or reinforced concrete slabs or rock fill. Drainage holes should be provided in fortified slopes.
In closed drainages, a sand-gravel mixture, expanded clay, slag, polymer and other materials should be used as a filter and filter dust.
Water should be drained through trenches or canals by gravity. The construction of catchment tanks with pumping stations is advisable in cases where the relief of the protected area has lower marks than the water level in the nearest water body, where surface runoff from the protected area should be diverted.
Discharge of water into the storm sewer is allowed if the throughput of the storm sewer is determined taking into account the additional costs of water coming from the drainage system. In this case, the backwater of the drainage system is not allowed.
Inspection wells should be installed at least 50 m apart on straight drainage sections, as well as in places of turns, intersections and changes in the slopes of drainage pipes. Inspection wells may be used prefabricated from reinforced concrete rings with a sump (at least 0.5 m deep) and concreted bottoms in accordance with GOST 8020-80. Inspection wells on reclamation drainages should be taken in accordance with SNiP II-52–74.
As pipes, you should use: ceramic, asbestos-cement, concrete, reinforced concrete or PVC pipes, as well as pipe filters made of porous concrete or porous polymer concrete.
Concrete, reinforced concrete, asbestos-cement pipes, as well as porous concrete pipe filters should be used only in soils and water that are non-aggressive to concrete.

Drainage pipes

Modern industry produces three types of pipes:

asbestos-cement;
ceramic;
polymer.

The first two types are now rarely used. They are expensive, heavy and short-lived. A variety of plastic pipes are filling the market. Single and double layer flexible and rigid polymer pipes have many advantages.

For drainage, polymer pipes are most often used.

Laying drainage with your own hands

You can lay the drainage on the site yourself. Any company will help you to choose pipes and fittings for them. For the manufacture of the drainage system, you will need the following tools and materials:

pipes made of asbestos cement or plastic, fittings;
wrenches, scissors for cutting pipes;
filter non-woven material;
ready-made or manufactured inspection wells;
storm water inlets (catchment receiver), trays, gutters, grates, sand traps;
gravel, sand;
level;
bayonet and shovel;
electric or pneumatic perforator;
wheelbarrow, buckets;
iron or wooden rammer;
individual protection means.

The construction of a deep drainage system is as follows:

The beginning of construction takes place with the installation of a collector well, that is, a place where water from the entire system will be collected. It will be simple and rational to use a ready-made container made of durable polymer, although it is also possible to independently manufacture a well from reinforced concrete rings.
A prefabricated drainage well is needed so that excess water accumulates in it, which filled the drainage system to failure
Next, trenches are prepared for laying drainage pipes. The trench is dug 20-30 cm deeper than the expected depth of the pipes being laid, while it is necessary to maintain a slope of 0.5-0.7%.
The depth of the trench depends on the climatic conditions of the area where the drainage system is installed
If it is impossible to withstand the given slope, then an additional pump for the drainage structure of the site will have to be included in this scheme.
In the dug trenches, sand cushions with a thickness of 10 cm are arranged, which are very carefully tamped.
Then the trench is lined with geotextile fabric so that its edges extend beyond the trench.
Gravel 10–20 cm thick is poured onto the fabric, on which the pipes will be laid.
We lay the geotextile fabric so that it completely covers the entire area of the trench and would continue to creep along the surface of the earth for another 20-30 centimeters
Inspection wells are installed in the places where the pipeline of the drainage structure turns. Wells are also installed on straight sections every 50 meters.
An inspection plastic drainage well is needed in order to easily check the drainage system, and, if necessary, repair or clean it
After the pipes are laid, washed gravel is poured on top of them with a layer of 10 to 20 cm and all this is wrapped in excess geotextiles with an overlap. You can secure the fabric with plastic twine.
A layer of washed gravel is poured onto the pipes and wrapped in excess geotextile
Geotextile will act as a filter that does not allow soil particles to pass through and prevents the gravel layer from silting up.
Backfilling the trench: sand, then soil or crushed stone, and turf is laid on top. A sand cushion is needed to prevent pipe deformation during the off-season.
Grass turf can be laid on top of the drainage trench or decorated with stones

Video: laying drainage using a perforated pipeline

Drainage system maintenance, cleaning

Maintenance consists of inspecting and cleaning the system. Regular inspection will help identify minor faults.

Main methods of maintenance of drainage and drainage systems:

Drainage cleaning (mechanical method). It can be done in different ways. The choice of any of them depends on where the pipes are located, the design features. If the drain is on the surface, it is best to choose a manual cleaning method. It can be carried out independently, without the involvement of qualified specialists. When it comes to deep drainage, more efficient methods will be required, which can be associated with excavation. In this case, a pneumatic unit with a cleaning tool and a shaft is required. The second option involves the use of a special nozzle, which will remove deposits on the pipe walls and grind large inclusions. The system should be cleaned at least once every 3-4 years.
Drainage flushing (hydrodynamic method). Typically, the system is cleaned section by section using a hose and pump. A global system cleaning should be done once every 10-15 years. To do this, you need to provide access to each drain from both ends. On one side, the pipe goes into a drainage well, and the other end is brought to the surface. To do this, even at the stage of laying the system, outlets are made and with the help of fittings the pipe is lengthened and taken out to a certain place. In the process of flushing, pumping equipment is connected to one or the other end of the pipe, and a stream of water is passed under pressure. In this case, a compressor is used, which will supply compressed air to the pipe. The system is purged by a flow of a mixture of air and water. The hydrodynamic method is different high efficiency - under this influence, sediments and debris are crushed, after which it is washed out of the drains with clean water.

Video: cleaning a drainage well with a drainage pump

Inspection wells require regular cleaning. They should always be closed. Debris removal from pipes is carried out hydraulically using high pressure. Mechanical cleaning with scrapers or brushes is not permitted.

In order for the water drainage system from the site to work as efficiently and long as possible, attention must be paid to its maintenance and repair.

The type of drainage system is determined by the characteristics of a particular site. Each owner chooses the most acceptable option for him. Drainage can be laid independently, with the necessary calculations, compliance with sanitary standards and rules and the recommendations of specialists. If properly used, the system can last for over 50 years.

How the drainage system works and its types - DIY drainage technology

The presence of groundwater at the construction site is a big problem that needs to be addressed even at the stage of building the foundations of the house. If at the beginning of the excavation work water appears in the pit, then it will be necessary to pump out the water with pumps from a specially arranged pit, covered with rubble.

Groundwater may appear even after the completion of construction, which threatens basement flooding and increased corrosion of foundation materials.

Flooding of the site also poses a danger to green spaces, because many types of trees and shrubs cannot develop normally if their roots are in waterlogged soil. The only means for draining the soil in all cases is the installation of a drainage system for the site.

How the drainage system works and types of drainage

There are several main types of drainage:

Surface drainage.
Deep drainage.
Reservoir drainage.
Wall drainage.

Surface drainage is carried out to protect the site from flooding by surface waters. In this case, the depth of the trenches is no more than 50 cm.

Reservoir drainage usually consists of a layer of sand up to 30cm thick, with strips of crushed stone several meters apart, which can be laid under the entire building.

Wall drainage is used to protect basements and foundations from flooding.

The procedure for the construction of the drainage system

If the groundwater rises to a level less than 2.5 meters from the ground surface, then drainage must be performed.

Drainage trench construction technology

The procedure for installing a drainage trench is as follows:

First, fill the bottom with coarse sand with a layer of 50 mm thick.
Lay the drainage pipe with a slope of 0.002 (2mm per 1 running meter) in clay soils and 0.003 (3mm per 1 running meter) in sandy soils. If the lower point of the drain is located with a difference of several meters from the level of the site, then it is better to make a slope of up to 5-10 mm per 1 running meter. Wrap the drainage pipe with a special cloth - geotextile and cover it with a layer of washed gravel of 10-20mm fraction with a thickness of 30-40cm.
Next, lay another layer of coarse sand 10-20cm thick. Top up the entire structure with soil previously removed from the trench. Cover the top of the trench with a layer of turf to prevent silting of the drain.
Lay the pipes, as in a regular sewage system, in straight lines, and arrange inspection and rotary wells at bends.

How to make wall drainage and garden protection

Wall drainage is designed to protect the foundations of the house and basement walls from flooding.

When installing wall drainage, on the wall, perform a gluing waterproofing made of "Dreniz" type material, which consists of a polymer waterproof and filtering geotextile layers.

Drainage materials

Observing all these instructions, you will be able to do drainage with your own hands on your site without there.

Drainage at home Is a system whose function is is to divert atmospheric and underground moisture from the foundation. You can rarely do without it. in areas with well-permeable soil, no flooding and low year-round groundwater levels.

In other cases, this system is necessary, since protects the foundation, basement from rain, melt water and the rise of the primer, as well as from the destructive action of soils, prone to swelling when wet and freezing. Thus, drainage will extend the life of the building and prevents the development of mold in the basement.

For creating systems for removing excess moisture you can use the services of specialists, as well as do all the work yourself. You just need to choose the right drainage, and there are several types of it. They differ in the complexity of the arrangement, appearance and other parameters.

One of the most common drainage classifications is based on how complex it is. In accordance with this parameter, 3 types of drainage systems.

Open drainage or superficial is one or more ravines. The depth of each is about 0.7 m, and the width is 0.5 m. This option the easiest to arrange, but outwardly it is unattractive.

Backfill view or deep looks much better. For this species, a trench is also first dug. Geofabric is laid in it, and then a drainage backfill is poured, which will accumulate and remove excess moisture. For these purposes use broken brick, crushed stone, expanded clay t, etc. The drainage layer is wrapped in geotextile and covered with soil. But such a system there is one significant drawback: it can be cleaned only after opening.
The most difficult, but at the same time the most advanced system for draining water from the site is a closed drainage. In the center of the backfill, there is a drain, which is a perforated pipe. Water is collected in the pipeline and drained by gravity into a drainage well.

Exactly third way water diversion in recent years has become traditional when creating a drainage system.

Classic drainage scheme around the house

Often water drainage from the foundation is a drainage system surrounding the house, as well as revision and drainage wells. Arrange such drainage as follows:

around the house digging trenches the bottom of which has a slope of 5-10 mm per meter towards the lowest point of the site where the water collector will be installed;
on the rammed bottom fall asleep rubble or other drainage material;
above stack downhill drain pipe;
in places where drains form a right angle or several pipes intersect, install wells for revision;
above drains fall asleep the same drainage material, and then sand and soil;
at the lowest point of the site they are installing a drainage well, which is necessary for collecting water;
backfill all wells.

This is a simplified description of the construction of a near-house drainage system. In the reality drainage can be wall or annular, it all depends on the characteristics of the soil and the private house itself.

Wall drainage

Such waterproofing applied in that case, if the house has a basement and a ground floor.

And it's worth it until backfilling is carried out around the foundation of the house. This measure will avoid additional financial costs for earthmoving work.

The wall system consists of revision and collector tanks, as well as drains. The last laid around the building at a depth of at least 0.3-0.5 m from the floor level, but not deeper than the bottom edge of the foundation. The slope in this case is also important to observe.

For reliability around the foundation recommended create a waterproof half-meter screen made of maximally tamped clay, or the base of the house is covered with geotextiles.

In some cases sufficient to remove only atmospheric moisture applying only open type wall drainage, which is a collection of trays located in a ring near the house.

The gutters are closed from above with gratings.

Trench or ring system

This type of drainage used to protect the house, which is located on a site with sandy soils and does not have a base. Have a trench system at a distance of 3 to 12 meters from the house foundation, it is best to remove it at least 5 m from the building in order to avoid soil shrinkage, which will lead to the destruction of the base of the structure. When installing such a drainage system from the foundation of buildings, all those elements are used that are in the classical system described above.

For added protection the foundations of the house are also use a clay castle... Besides, The general rule is to install drains at a depth of 50 cm from the lowest point of the floor. The rest of the parameters are determined on a case-by-case basis.

Installation of wall drainage of the foundation around the house

Before proceeding with the installation of a near-house drainage system, it is necessary to determine its type, which depends on several parameters:

varieties of soil;
whether the building has a basement or basement;
the origin of the water to be diverted.

The wall-mounted underground option is used if there is a basement, high groundwater level and loamy and clayey soils. If it is necessary to protect the base of the house only from precipitation, then the surface system will be sufficient.

To protect a home located on sandy or sandy loam watered soils and does not have a basement, apply ring (trench) drainage.

Having decided on the type of drainage, you can start drawing up a diagram, designing a system and planning all work. This stage allows you to reduce all possible shortcomings, which are then expensive to correct.

For the plan you need to decide on the lowest point on the site to install a drainage well, which will be connected by a pipe to the common ring of the system.

It is better to draw a diagram on graph paper or in a special program. The drawing should show:

the house, as well as the buildings adjacent to it;
trees and shrubs;
the places where the drains pass, depending on the selected type of drainage;
revision and drainage wells.

Inspection containers are installed at the place where the pipe turns, for example, in the corners of a house, or every 30 m for a straight pipe section.

The depth of the pipe should also be recorded on the plan. This indicator depends not only on the bottom slab of the foundation and the height of the floor, but also on the level of soil freezing. Pipes should run deeper than the winter ground temperature point. It is important to write down the diameter of the drains, which affects the width of the trench, and the required slope.

It is better to entrust the design to specialists. But the purchase of the necessary material and the installation of the drainage system on the basis of a competent plan can be carried out independently.

How to properly make a closed drainage around the house with your own hands

Such a device for protecting a house from water can be done independently even after the completion of the construction of the building. First of all, you need to prepare working tools and all the necessary materials:

shovels of two types (bayonet and shovel);
spirit level for checking the slope;
manual rammer;
a device for removing excess soil from the site (stretcher or wheelbarrow);
roulette;
geotextile;
backfill for the moisture-collecting layer (granite crushed stone is best suited);
sand;
inspection and drainage wells;
drainage pump;
drains and fittings for connecting them to each other and to wells.

The pipes must be perforated. You can purchase ready-made drains, or make your own from an existing orange sewer pipe. It is not recommended to use flexible products. The diameter of the pipeline can be 70-150 mm.

The material is preferably plastic with high strength and wall resistance to stress. Moreover, the deeper the drains go, the higher this indicator should be. You can take asbestos and ceramic products.

Some prefabricated drainage lines are surrounded by additional filtering material, for example coconut fiber.

Lookout and buy ready-made or they are made independently from a thick-walled plastic pipe of large diameter. You will need to buy hatches for them.

After acquiring everything you need, they begin to measure, allowing you to mark the place where the drains and other elements of the drainage system will pass. They release the site from debris and begin excavation and installation work. Let's take a look how to properly lay the drainage pipe around the house:

The drainage system is ready.

Video on how to make a drainage system around the house with your own hands:

A few words about the plastic drainage well

In its simplest form, it can be a container for collecting water. At the junction with the inlet pipeline a valve must be installed to prevent the backflow of water. It is good if the container has a large diameter, for example, 80-100 cm.

From the drainage well, you can lay a non-perforated outlet pipeline to a ravine, a filtration well or a reservoir. Drainage from the collector can be carried out by gravity or by a drainage pump... The water from the well can be used for technical needs and irrigation.

How much does drainage cost

If you decide completely drain the site yourself, then here is the cost you will have to pay only for the tools and all the material:

A meter of drainage pipe with a diameter of 11 cm can cost from 60 to 180 rubles.
A square meter of geotextile will cost you approximately 20-40 rubles.
Granite crushed stone of 20/40 mm fraction costs from 1200 to 2000 rubles per m3.
The average price for a cube of river sand is about 600-700 rubles.

In this case a running meter of drainage will cost a maximum of 2,000 rubles. But this is without the cost of delivery of materials. We also need to add the price of the wells. Ready manhole made of plastic the minimum diameter can cost 2000 - 2500 rubles per piece, and drainage - more than 10 thousand rubles. It is cheaper to make them from a pipe.

If you hire specialists, then the price of the drainage system will add up from the cost of design services (about 10,000 rubles) and the work itself. Many firms make up a project for free if you order work from them.

Specializing companies set a price for pipe laying at least 2,500 rubles per meter, for the installation of a viewing well - 5-7 thousand, and a drainage well - 35-40 thousand rubles. But many of them give a guarantee for their work for 2-3 years.

But if you are confident in your abilities or have at least some experience, you can order only a project, and the rest do it yourself. Or, in general, all drainage work should be carried out on our own, including drawing up a diagram.

The main thing is to decide on the type of drainage in accordance with the characteristics of the building, the climate of the region and the site. It is better to use deep drainage, and, if necessary, supplement it with a stormwater system.

Don't skimp on pipes and underestimate the manhole for cleaning the system. With the proper organization of drainage, you will not only be able to protect the house from moisture, but also use all the atmospheric and underground water for household needs.