Soil mulching, types of mulch, shelter features of different crops. Proper mulching: how and when to mulch the soil Soil mulching

Experienced gardeners and gardeners know effective methods for preventing weed growth and protecting plants from the environment. Almost every summer resident is already convinced of the enormous benefits of mulching.

If you observe nature, you can see that trees shed their foliage and form a protective layer for the root system in winter and return nutrients to the soil from rotted fallen leaves. Nature was the first to come up with ways to mulch the soil. The main thing is to choose the right materials. If you follow the basic rules of mulching, you can not only enrich the soil and keep plants healthy, but also increase the yield.

When and how to mulch the soil

Do not mulch in early spring. The soil should warm up well. Cold, wet soil under mulch will cause rot and harm heat-loving plants. Mulch will limit the heat from the ground to the crops. The best time to mulch the soil is early summer or late May.

The benefit of mulching is to maintain a favorable temperature for the plant around the roots and the necessary soil moisture. Mulch prevents the soil from drying out, prevents the appearance of weeds, and reduces the frequency of watering.

Air exchange is important for the roots and stems of plants. To this end, a small gap should be left between the crops and the mulch for air circulation.

Before laying the mulch, the soil must be loosened and moistened, it should not be dense. You can loosen the beds immediately after the rain, then additional moisture is not required. The optimal mulching layer is about eight centimeters.

Great benefits for the soil and plants can be gained by using organic mulch. Sawdust and shavings, tree bark and nutshells, needles and hay - all this will attract earthworms and other beneficial insects to the site. With the help of worms, the microflora of the soil will improve, and, leaving such a mulch for the winter, it will turn into humus with the help of bacteria.

Disadvantages of mulching

Under certain natural conditions, a layer of mulch rots - these are clean clay soils, heavy and prolonged rains. Too thick a layer of mulch contributes to the formation of rot.

All the advantages and benefits of mulching will appear no earlier than two years later.

Mulching in areas where there may be unexpected frosts can cause permanent damage to plants. After all, the heat remains in the soil, under the mulch. And the upper part of the plants remains unprotected.

Organic mulch is not only a home for worms and insects, but also attracts various rodents and slugs. The abundance of insects attracts many birds, which can harm the growth and development of plants. Mice and moles will only harm the future crop.

Despite some negative aspects, mulching facilitates the work of gardeners and summer residents. The need for watering and weeding decreases, the soil microflora improves. This agricultural method is considered one of the most effective in agriculture.

In modern agriculture, along with new ultra-technological methods of growing plants, ancient methods that have been forgotten or almost forgotten are also widely used. These methods include mulching, that is, covering the soil with various materials in order to protect the beds from drying out and to control weeds. Today, mulch is used by both amateur gardeners and large agricultural holdings.

In past centuries, modern means of weed control were not available to gardeners, and the possibilities for watering garden crops were very limited. However, it was somehow necessary to deal with weeds and drought, which is why a simple but effective technology was invented - mulching.

The essence of this method is to cover the ground with inexpensive (garbage) material that would effectively restrain the growth of weeds, prevent the evaporation of water from the soil, but at the same time do not interfere with the growth and development of cultivated plants. For the role of mulch, straw, mowed grass, sawdust, needles and other similar materials were used. Today, the industry produces special types of film-type mulch, which are no less effective, but they are easier to lay.

Mulching the earth is as follows. Mulch is laid on open ground, acting as a kind of blanket. Moreover, organic mulch is often not removed from the garden at the end of the season, but simply plowed into the ground, turning into natural fertilizer.

A properly laid layer of natural or artificial mulch can perform many different functions:

• maintaining the optimum temperature in the upper layers of the soil, including protection from overheating in the sun and from sudden temperature changes in the autumn-winter period,
• partly it can be replaced by mulching watering, since the moisture in the ground is retained much better and does not evaporate under the influence of sunlight,
• optimization of the air-gas regime in the upper layers of the soil,
• prevention of water and wind erosion of soil,
• weed control,
• the soil under the mulch does not dry out and remains loose,
• soil enrichment with natural fertilizers,
• creating a breeding ground for beneficial insects and earthworms.

Today, mulching is used both in amateur gardening and horticulture, and in large fields owned by large agricultural holdings. The use of mulch allows farmers to significantly reduce the cost of weed control, watering and fertilizing crops and plantings.

Main types of mulch

By and large, any organic material that has a suitable consistency can be used for mulching. That is, one that can be easily laid on the bed, and which can effectively play the role of a “blanket” for the bed, while maintaining the ability to pass air and moisture. All types of mulch can be divided into three main categories:

• artificial covering materials,
• organic materials,
• inorganic bulk materials.

Which of the three types of mulch is preferred depends on many factors: the availability of a particular type of mulch, soil type, weather and climate factors, the type of plants in the garden, how they are grown, etc.

Amateur gardeners, as well as small farmers, often prefer to use natural organic materials in their activities, which are very cheap or even available to them for free. We are talking about such types of mulch as cereal straw, crop waste (tops and stems of cultivated plants), hay or simply dried grass, sawdust and shavings, bark for mulching and tree chips, fallen leaves, cut branches, needles, cones, peat , paper, etc.

The main advantage of this type of covering materials (besides low cost) is their ability to quickly and in large quantities accumulate moisture during precipitation or irrigation, and then release it very evenly into the ground. Also, these materials effectively regulate the temperature of the upper layers of the soil and can become a haven for beneficial insects. After harvesting, such mulch can simply be plowed into the ground, turning it into a natural fertilizer.

At the same time, specific types of mulch are more suitable for different types of cultivated plants. For example, mulching strawberries or strawberries is more convenient to do with pine or spruce needles, as this type of mulch can be easily laid around existing small strawberry bushes. But a garden bed with garlic can simply be completely covered with coarse straw, since garlic is able to independently break through a layer of mulch.

Large agricultural enterprises, as well as many amateur gardeners, use artificial film-type covering materials: white and black film, roofing felt, roofing felt, lutrasil, spunbond and others. Artificial materials are more effective in suppressing the growth of weeds, retain moisture better, but often have poorer temperature control. Also, they are not able to become a haven for beneficial organisms and turn into fertilizer after use. Artificial covering materials are much more expensive than natural ones, but they are more convenient to use for mulching large areas.

Finally, the third type of mulch is inorganic bulk materials - pebbles, crushed stone, expanded clay, etc. Most often they are used as a decorative cover for mulching bushes and trees on lawns and flowers in flower beds. Such mulch does not lose its appearance and does not decompose, very effectively suppresses the development of weeds, prevents moisture evaporation. However, it cannot be used for growing crops, since it is difficult to harvest it at the end of the season, and it cannot be left on the field, since it does not rot and makes it difficult to cultivate the field.

How and when to install mulch is highly dependent on the purpose for which mulching is performed, as well as the type of mulch and the type of crop being protected. Some cultures need to be completely covered with mulch, while others definitely need to leave open ground around the stems, mulching only the aisles. Some types of mulch can be laid in a thin two-centimeter layer, others are effective only with a thickness of about 5-10 cm. Winter crops are mulched in late autumn, spring crops - in late spring.

Since in most cases mulching is used for summer vegetable crops, we will talk about them.

So, mulching the beds should be carried out no earlier than May, so that the soil has time to warm up. In addition, the mulch laid too early will quickly begin to rot if it gets caught in prolonged rains, which often happens in April-May.

On the other hand, if there is a risk of late frosts, early mulch can save heat-loving crops from them. True, then it will still have to be removed or updated if it starts to rot.

For most vegetable crops, continuous mulching is very undesirable: it is imperative to leave a small radius of bare ground around the stems so that the plant roots can breathe. Also, this rule is also relevant when mulching fruit trees, around the trunks of which you need to leave a circle of bare earth.

If possible, it is advisable to lay the mulch after the rain, and not before it. Also, if necessary (if the bed has not been cultivated and dug up after the previous season), the ground must be loosened before mulching.

For most garden crops, the optimal thickness of the mulch layer is 3-8 cm.

Although mulching has many advantages, it should be remembered that this agricultural technique has its drawbacks.

Firstly, mulch is prone to rotting, especially when there is excess moisture (long rains, heavy clay soil, proximity to groundwater, etc.) or an excessively thick layer of mulch. Rotting is an extremely negative phenomenon, since it creates a threat of fungal infection of cultivated plants. In addition, during the process of decay, nutrients are sucked out of the soil.

Secondly, mulch is able to delay the warming of the soil, slowing down the development of winter crops in the spring. If mulching was carried out in autumn, in order to minimize the influence of this factor, after the final removal of the snow cover, the mulch laid since autumn can be removed, or at least stirred up. Then it will cease to be a dense impenetrable shield and will be able to pass heat. For the same reason, do not rush to lay fresh mulch in the spring. It is better to wait until the soil warms up properly.

Thirdly, organic mulch can become a shelter not only for beneficial insects, but also for pests. Including quite large ones, such as mice and even moles. And, for example, slugs often appear in the mulch from fallen leaves. There is a similar problem with paper mulch.

Finally, mulching with grass clippings or straw can lead to weed seed infestation in the garden. Moreover, weeds can begin to germinate directly in the mulch, using it as a nutrient medium, leveling its ability to restrain the growth of harmful plants.

Spring is the best time to mulch most plantings. After the snow melts (in the northern regions), or the winter rains end (in the south), the soil saturated with moisture will begin to warm up in the sun. This is the moment when you can start preparing for mulching.

First you need to remove from the field, if possible, all the roots of perennial weeds, and also apply the necessary fertilizer, if necessary. Then you can start laying the mulch, which will protect the plants from overheating and drying out of the earth in the summer. When the time comes to plant seedlings or seeds of cultivated plants, the mulch is moved apart at the planting site and seedlings are placed in the resulting hole. However, there is an alternative. First, vegetables are planted, and only then chips for mulching or other covering material are laid in the aisles.

In mid-autumn, when the earth is already saturated with rain moisture, but has not yet cooled down, the second mulching period begins, associated with the planting of winter vegetables. Before laying the mulch, as in spring, you need to first remove as many weeds as possible and apply winter fertilizers. The mulch itself can also be laid both on already planted plants and precede them. Which of the two options is more preferable is a debatable, if not controversial, issue.

The need for mulching for the winter is dictated by the need to protect plants from freezing in case of a little snowy winter. In addition, this mulch will trap more moisture from the melting snow in the spring. In the spring, autumn mulch can be left as is, or supplemented with a fresh layer to compensate for winter losses.

Flower beds and flower beds, as mentioned earlier, are most often mulched with stone chips or expanded clay, which is laid in a continuous layer of 5 to 10 cm.

Trees in the garden, as well as ornamental and berry bushes, are covered with mulch along the radius from the edge of the crown to the trunk, leaving only the space in the immediate vicinity of the trunk exposed. Needles, sawdust, less often straw and other materials are usually used as mulch, which are laid in a layer of about 10 cm. In the future, trees and shrubs can be watered less frequently (since the evaporation of water from the soil is significantly reduced), but more abundantly (to wet the mulch layer and moisten the soil under him).

As for vegetables, it is most convenient to plant seedlings on a bed already covered with natural mulch or a covering film. Under each plant, a hole is simply made in the film (or a layer of straw is moved apart), into which the seedling is placed. Further watering is done directly into the remaining holes (holes). The same crops that are planted "with their heads" in the ground, such as onions and garlic, are usually covered with mulch after planting, since the first method would be too troublesome for them.

In conclusion, we note that planting with mulching can be used not only in open ground, but also in greenhouses, greenhouses, greenhouses, and even in pots with indoor plants. True, under these conditions, the layer of mulch can and should be made much thinner.

In recent years, weather disasters are not uncommon for us: either heat with temperatures up to 40 ° C, or frosts in the middle of spring. Under the hot sun, the uncovered earth heats up (like sand on the beach) up to + 50 ... + 70 ° С. Hot soil and hot air in just a few days burn everything that was grown with great diligence in greenhouses and planted in the garden. The problem can be solved quickly and cheaply. There is an agricultural technique that has been used since the 17th century, known as "covering the soil." They were often used in the old days. Currently, this technique is also used, only under a new name - "soil mulching", from the English word "mulch", which means shelter in translation.

Types of organic mulch. © Rick Wetherbee

Types of soil mulching

Sheltering the soil from the sizzling heat can be done in 3 ways:

• traditional mulching,
• organic mulching,
• inorganic mulching.

Traditional mulching applied constantly. This is normal loosening. It is also called dry watering. Loosening after watering or rain keeps the soil layer under it moist and cool for a longer time, and during the dry period reduces the evaporation of moisture from the soil. Loosening destroys weeds, increases the supply of oxygen to the soil. But such mulching has, in addition to positive, also a negative side. Frequent loosening destroys the structure of the soil, does not increase its fertility.

- this is the shelter of the soil with organic materials remaining after certain agrotechnical measures.

Inorganic mulching - it is the covering of the soil with materials of rocks or industrial production.

Materials used for organic mulching

The best covering material for soil under horticultural crops is natural organic mulch. Organic mulch includes all agricultural waste: straw, sawdust, grass cuttings, peat, chopped tree bark, wood chips, wood chips, fallen leaves, humus, mature compost, needles, flax waste, sunflower, cereal crops, fallen cones. Mulch is mowed green manure, hay, crushed eggshells, manure and other materials.

Useful properties of organic mulching

Organic mulch protects the soil from overheating (in summer) and freezing (in winter).

Mulched row spacings in hot weather reduce soil temperature, thereby protecting it from excessive evaporation of moisture and preventing the formation of a post-irrigation crust.

If the soil around the seedlings is covered with a 5-7 cm layer of mulch, then the seedlings of weeds (especially annuals) will decrease several times. Perennial weeds that have sprouted through the mulch (quinoa, yarrow, spurge) can be cut at seedling level, the main thing is to prevent them from flowering and insemination. With such care, the garden, of course, will lose its elegance, but it will gain health.

In semi-cut weeds, bushes of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants will take root faster, gain the necessary organic mass and proceed to the formation of a crop that will be sheltered from sunburn. There is a group of malicious weeds (field bindweed, wheatgrass) that grow quietly under the canopy of mulch. But there are fewer of them and you can walk with a chopper, turning the mulch between the rows.

During the summer, the mulch will gradually decompose, enriching the soil with nutrients and humus, which will attract beneficial soil microorganisms and worms. The soil will become loose, more breathable. Under sagging mulch, washing out of the top layer by rain and weathering by wind will decrease.

The use of coniferous mulch can slightly increase the acidity for some crops (sorrel, chicory, potatoes, radishes, tomatoes, carrots, pumpkins). You can slightly alkalize the soil with hay, sawdust of broad-leaved species for peppers, beets, onions, parsnips, celery, asparagus.

Recently, fine mulch from sunflower husks and grain crops has been more actively used. Such mulch practically does not cake, freely passes air and water, its layering creates a lower temperature, and slow decay gradually enriches the soil with nutrients.

Illiterately applied organic mulch can have a negative impact on the soil. So, its large layer in rainy, damp weather is a good home for mold and other fungal-bacterial infections. Large mulch (long stems of weeds, sunflowers, pieces of cardboard) is a cozy home for snails, slugs and other pests. Therefore, mulch should be selected and used carefully, taking into account the structure of the soil, its composition, crops.

Materials for inorganic mulching

Inorganic mulch includes natural materials - gravel, pebbles, sand, crushed stone, as well as waste from brick and other industries. Soil covering with polymer film, agrofiber, burlap, expanded clay is a kind of mulching designed to stifle weeds and improve the quality of care for cultivated plants. So, on strawberry plantations, industrial fields of vegetable crops, black film and agrofiber are used to suppress the growth of weeds, retain moisture in the soil, protect the soil from overheating, and the possibility of harvesting clean products.

The Benefits of Inorganic Mulch

The main role of inorganic mulching is also to cover the soil in order to protect cultivated plants from sizzling heat, retain moisture in the soil, and suppress weed growth. They use inorganic mulch to give decorativeness to our gardens and cottages. It is very pleasant to look at the box-beds: inside there are green healthy plants, like a flower bed, and around the paths are colored from multi-colored pebbles, sand, gravel, crumbs of broken bricks and other improvised materials.

Naturally, the use of inorganic mulch as an agronomic practice is necessary. However, its use should not be abused. The fashion for boxes will go away and a dead gravel plot will remain instead of fertile soil. After all, inorganic artificial mulch does not increase soil fertility, but significantly worsens its physical performance.

Mulching methods

The method of mulching is determined by the ultimate goal - weed control, moisture conservation, increasing the decorativeness of the site, getting earlier vegetables or extending the warm season.

Sprinkling the soil with mulch

The use of fine organic mulch for plants is most beneficial, and in terms of effect on the soil, it is closest to the natural processes that occur under the cover of mulch. Peat, humus, sawdust, shavings easily pass water and prevent its rapid evaporation, protect the soil from drying out in a drought. As they decompose, they enrich the soil with humic substances. Therefore, plants under mulch require lower rates of dressing and watering.

Covering the soil with covering materials.

Mulching film is more practical when partially covering the soil. So, temporary mulching of row spacing with black film increases the yield of cucumbers, zucchini, sweet peppers, corn by 20-30%, in early spring it contributes to the rapid heating of the soil, which allows you to get an earlier harvest. Young seedlings mulched with black film take root faster.

Continuous mulching with film or agrofibre is used more often when growing products on an industrial scale (strawberry plantations, cabbage fields). With such mulching, the need of plants for nutrients is sometimes reduced by a third of the norm of fertilizers in open ground. However, in this case, it is necessary to fertilize the soil before mulching (covering) the soil with a film or agrofibre and practically do not feed it later or use foliar top dressing.

Covering materials must retain light. Under transparent materials, weeds continue to grow together. Using cover materials in the household, it must be taken into account that under the canopy of film and other shelters, the soil becomes depleted in organic matter much faster. In suburban areas, the use of inorganic mulch should not prevail over the use of organic. It is more practical to use artificial covering material in the warm season and clean it for the winter, while natural mulch can remain in the garden or plot, rot and add organic matter to the soil in the form of humus and other organic compounds.

Mulching Rules

The main soil mulching is carried out 2 times a year: in autumn and spring. Each of them will be effective only if the required rules are observed.

Autumn mulching is carried out after the full harvest. Approximately in the beginning-mid-October, when microorganisms are still actively working, and the weeds are gone or go to winter dormancy.

For the garden and berry fields, it is better to use coarse and dry material as autumn mulch: bark, shavings, nut shells, peat. The garden plot is mulched with manure, humus, leaf litter and other softer materials.

Before mulching, it is necessary to prepare the soil:

• remove dry tops, weed residues, parts of cut branches;
• apply fertilizer;
• close them into the soil by digging or surface loosening.

Dry soil must be watered and wait until the irrigation water is completely absorbed. Dry soil, especially in the garden and berry fields, cannot be mulched, since moisture will not always reach the roots in sufficient quantities.

Autumn mulching is carried out with a layer of 5-8, sometimes up to 15 cm. The mulch is not trampled down.

Shaded areas in the garden and in the garden are mulched with a thinner layer than open sunny ones.

When mulching winter crops (garlic), leave a gap between a row of plants and mulch. In the garden, trunk circles are left free from mulching. The mulching area covers a circle according to the diameter of the crown.

Spring mulching is carried out after warming up the soil in the root layer within + 12 ... + 14 ° С. Mulching cold soil (when early crops of carrots, planting seedlings of early cabbage) will extend the period of soil warming up and can lead to compaction of the top layer, which is especially dangerous for early crops.

• During the growing season of plants, the best time for mulching is after watering or other tillage (loosening, fertilizing, spraying).
• If agrotechnical measures include digging, then summer mulch, along with autumn litter, weeds, healthy tops, is embedded in the soil.
• If the garden is cultivated without digging and the mulch remains on the beds, then in the spring it is temporarily shifted to the side to warm up the soil, and then returns.
• If the soil under the mulch layer does not freeze, then in the spring they do not touch it, and planting and sowing are carried out directly into the layer of half-rotted mulch. After all spring treatments, the soil is again mulched, forming during the summer the next layer of semi-decomposed organic matter. The soil is enriched with organic matter, its fertility grows, and the layers of mulch inhibit weeds, causing their death.
• When mulching the soil, weeds that have sprouted through the mulch are not allowed to seed by cutting off the tops with inflorescences. But even if the seeds fall on the mulch, most of them will not be able to germinate without soil. Weeds will die.

Thus, the site will gradually be cleared of weeds. Under the mulch, the soil structure will improve, saturate with organic matter, worms, beneficial microflora. Plants in such soil will constantly be in a comfortable environment.

The main mistakes when mulching

During the growing season of plants, it is impossible to lay a large layer of mulch during the wet period: putrefactive processes may begin.

Do not cover plants with a high layer of mulch. The roots will not have enough oxygen and lighting, diseases will begin.

It is pointless to mulch dry soil in windy weather: the mulch can be blown away by the wind.

In the spring, undecomposed mulch should not be left in the garden. It will delay the warming of the soil.

In autumn, mulch is applied for tillage or in future row-spacings in order to accumulate moisture in snowless and arid regions.

To preserve winter moisture in the soil, as soon as the top layer dries up and it is possible to go into the garden, you need to free the soil from the old mulch, loosen up to 8-10 cm and re-mulch with a loose layer. Otherwise, the soil will begin to compact and warm up worse. When planting heat-loving crops in insufficiently warmed soil, plants may die during a return spring frost.

Mulching- this is covering the soil under fruit trees or vegetable plants with a protective layer. You can also mulch the soil between beds or rows of vegetables. Various materials are used as mulch.

In nature, under trees and shrubs there is always a layer of fallen leaves, needles, dead plant remains. This organic layer protects the soil from erosion, drying, and weathering. Mulching has similar effects. At the same time, it enriches the soil with organic matter and promotes the development of the root system of plants.

Mulching prevents the formation of a crust on the soil surface, reduces the growth of weeds. Accordingly, the number of waterings is reduced and there is no need to engage in regular weeding. Under a layer of mulch, the earth breathes easier. This is especially true for clay soils, as the mulch does not let in the sun's rays and does not allow the hardening of the earth.

Under a layer of mulch, soil bacteria actively multiply. Mulch is an additional source of nutrients (substances) for many of them. Earthworms and small animals breed well under mulch, which help improve soil structure.

Under a layer of mulch, optimal temperature and soil moisture for plants are maintained. Changes in soil temperature occur less abruptly. This has a positive effect on the metabolism in plants. The greatest effect of mulching is observed in areas with dry weather, as the mulch prevents moisture from evaporating from the soil. Under the mulch, weeds die, as they lack sunlight.

Mulching methods

There are three ways to mulch:

✓ covering the beds with a black film or a special covering material;

✓ sprinkling of soil with organic materials (peat, sawdust, etc.);

✓ Sprinkling the soil with compost.

The choice of mulching method is influenced by the type of soil, climate characteristics, and the goal pursued (weed control, reduced watering frequency, soil fertilization).

Mulching with black film or covering material is used when growing vegetables and strawberries.

For many plants, nutrient requirements are reduced by a third under such a mulch. It should be noted that it is necessary to fertilize the soil before mulching with these materials. The best time to do this is when planting. If possible, immediately after this, the beds are covered with mulching material. When used correctly, black film and other covering materials can be used for several years.

Transparencies and white materials are not suitable for mulching as they do not stop weeds from growing.

❧ Some plants prefer colored mulch. For example, cabbage grows best on white mulch, and tomatoes grow best on red mulch. However, mulch of such colors is almost never used in practice.

Under the black film, the soil temperature is higher - by 2 degrees. In early spring, beds are covered with it at night. During the day, the film is removed so that the soil warms up better under the sun. In warm soil in plants, all processes occur more actively.

The same applies to the vital activity of soil insects and microorganisms. However, it should be borne in mind that under the film and other covering materials, the soil quickly becomes depleted, since organic plant residues do not enter it.

Moisture is well maintained under the black film in the soil. Water that evaporates from the soil surface accumulates in the form of droplets on the film and falls back again. Therefore, soil moisture is maintained under the film at the same level. Mulching with black film between rows when growing zucchini, peppers, cucumbers, corn leads to an increase in yield by 30%, moreover, the fruits always remain clean, of good quality and it is much easier to collect them.

If you cover young trees and shrubs with a black film, they will grow faster, it is better to take root in a new place.

Mulching with black film is often done in greenhouses. This prevents the evaporation of moisture from the ground and reduces the humidity of the indoor air. As a result, the number of fungal diseases among plants decreases. This is of particular importance in the cold season, when the air already has high humidity, for example, in autumn.

Mulching films are also means of pest control. Some types of films have reflective aluminum inserts for this purpose. The film, unlike organic mulch, protects plants from the appearance of mice.

Mulching with organic materials is more beneficial to plants than mulching with black film and covering materials. It promotes the growth of both vegetable and ornamental crops. It brings special benefits to white cabbage, celery, tomatoes, radish, garlic, asparagus.

As a mulch for gardens and gardens you can use green fertilizers (crushed green parts of plants), plant residues, weeds that have not reached the flowering stage, straw, hay, manure, fallen leaves, chopped wood bark, sawdust.

Good mulch is compost, including unripe, and a mixture of unripe manure and green mass. It is especially good to use such mulching in areas where plants are planted to obtain green mass, such as clover. They increase the rate of maturation of the compost and subsequently enrich it.

Beds with berry plants should be under a layer of mulch at all times. In the summer, dry and green mulch is used, and for the winter, the beds are mulched with manure. With this approach, mulching does not lead to an increased content of nitrates in the berries.

It must be remembered that the greater the fertility of the soil, the sooner the mulch will decompose and turn into humus.

The layer of mulch should not be made thick, as its lower part will dampen and rot, especially after rains. That is why on clay soils it is not recommended to make a layer of mulch more than 2 cm. As necessary (about 1 time in 2 weeks), mulching should be repeated.

Improving the structure of heavy soils during mulching appears only after 2-3 years.

Perform it in the summer, immediately after planting and watering the plants. In summer, it is recommended to use only well-chopped mulch. The emerging shoots are sprinkled with sand, ripened compost, chopped grass. You can also sprinkle mulch and aisles.

For winter mulching, plant residues are used - the ground part of plants, chaff, unripe manure. You can make a mixture out of this and sprinkle the entire garden with it, and not just the beds. Such mulch is poured with a light soil with a layer of 10 cm, and with heavy soil - 5-8 cm. You can also add mineral flour to it. This will reduce the formation of an unpleasant odor and increase the intensity of the formation of humus complexes in the soil. Also add a small amount of bone meal.

Mulching beds in the winter has some adverse effects. If the plants have overwintered under a layer of mulch, then it is likely that they will suffer from late spring frosts. In the spring, air cushions form under the mulch layer, which makes it difficult to warm the soil and contribute to the freezing of plants. Therefore, after winter mulching, re-mulching in spring is necessary.

In winter, under the mulch in the soil, the activity of earthworms increases. Therefore, in spring, the soil in this area is looser compared to non-mulched areas. Such soil is much easier to cultivate.

In the spring, the old mulch is removed and put into a compost heap. When growing vegetables in hill beds and high beds, mulching will be useful. The earth in such beds warms up and dries faster, and the mulch retains moisture.

Mulch works very well on fruit trees, as well as berry and ornamental shrubs. The soil around them and the paths are subjected to mulching. You can use mulch with a long shelf life (gravel, needles, crushed bark).

Trunk circles under the trees are mulched with cut grass, chopped green mass, bark, and fresh compost. Layers of mulch are made of medium thickness - 5 cm. Mulching the garden for several years significantly increases the permeability of the soil to air.

In gardens, be sure to mow the grass when it grows to 15-20 cm. After drying, it is used for mulching.

Some gardeners doubt the benefits of mulching with organic materials. Organic mulch is inhabited by worms and insects, it attracts birds, it is a hiding place for mice and moles. The latter are very harmful to young plants, gnawing them. Therefore, when using organic mulch, it is necessary to carry out rodent control.

Mulching is performed when growing not only vegetables and berries, but also mushrooms, medicinal, ornamental and aromatic plants. Some believe that the presence of mulch makes plants more fragrant and valuable medicines. When growing some mushrooms, such as ringworms, mulch is poured with a layer of 10 cm. Mulching will help make flower beds and other flower beds more decorative and attractive.

Known Swiss recipe for mulch. It is necessary to mix the crushed straw with the earth and compost for several weeks. After the formation of a homogeneous dark mass, the mulch is ready for use. After downloading, you can leave the grass on the lawns. It forms a thin layer of mulch. However, during the Rainy season, it is able to rot, then fungal diseases will appear in the grass. Therefore, with regular mowing of grass on lawns, the formation of a dense, air-tight layer should not be allowed. Therefore, it is recommended to clean the lawns with a rake at least three times a year.

Wood chips and shredded bark are not only a good mulch, but also a decorative element in the garden and on lawns. Paths can also be sprinkled with these materials. The thickness of the mulch layer should be 8-10 cm. This mulch protects against weeds and erosion of the paths. Under the wood mulch, it is possible to lay a covering material, but not a film.

It must be borne in mind that each material for mulching has its own characteristics. For example, the remains of garden plants are crushed before being used as mulch, mixed with green fertilizers. This type of mulch is suitable for any area in the garden.

Fallen leaves are used for mulching without crushing. You can mix it with other types of mulch.

A valuable type of mulch is hay, especially meadow.

Straw for mulching is used both unchanged and mixed with organic materials.

Manure is a type of mulch that is recommended to be used regularly, but in small quantities. Do not use it for mulching in the winter. This is due to the fact that nutrients are easily washed out of it. Pig manure and bird droppings are not suitable for mulching.

In recent years, there has been a tendency towards natural anomalies in the form of sudden changes in temperature. Summer heat can reach fifty degrees in the sun during the day, and at the end of August at night the air temperature drops to +15. Plants, like humans, react to sudden changes. This is expressed in the form of a bad harvest. The solution to the problem is mulching.

Soil mulching, what it is, what means to use and how, we will try to tell in the article.

Soil mulching is an agricultural technique that allows you to keep moisture at the root system of the plant, preventing the growth of weeds, the layer is also a soil fertilizer. It looks like a shelter around the trunk, located at the base.

Shelter used:

• organic,
• inorganic materials

The use of the former is associated with the use of natural wastes obtained as a result of agrotechnical measures. For example, sawdust, straw or hay. The second one is associated with the use of production items, rock materials.

There is another way - the traditional one, every gardener uses it, this is the usual loosening of the soil after watering or rains. By loosening, the earth becomes more airy, moisture nourishes the rhizome faster and the plant develops more rapidly.

organic mulching

Organic include agricultural waste - peat, pine cones, tree shavings or bark, wood chips, eggshells, foliage, etc. Row spacing helps plants survive the heat by lowering soil temperature, and in winter they protect from frost.

Cover the seedlings, then it is possible to reduce the number of weeds around. Perennial weeds will germinate and can be cut without allowing simultaneous flowering. In appearance, such a site is not very neat, but it will have increased resistance to negative factors.

If you see couch grass making its way, then it is better to get rid of it. When the garden is covered with straw, then periodically the remaining grains can germinate, they are also disposed of. They are easy to pull out with a root, you have to make a little effort.

Throughout the summer, the mulch decomposes, while enriching the soil with useful substances and trace elements. The soil becomes airy, more loose.

If you use pine needles as mulch, then the soil can increase the acidity. To avoid this, it is recommended to mix with hay.

Good result after using sunflower seed husks. The material has good throughput, does not cake, does not roll, lowers the soil temperature in summer.

But, not properly applied mulch, or too thick a layer, can also harm, for example, become a “cozy home” for snails or slugs. The microclimate favors the development of the fungus.

Inorganic mulching

This group includes:

• Fine stones
• Waste brick production
• Polymers
• Agrofibre
• Sackcloth

Gravel and brick chips are used more for decorative purposes. The benefits to plants are doubtful, but the possible harm is obvious. Under the influence of moisture, pebbles deepen into the ground.

Often used to cover the entire garden. So it acquires an aesthetically beautiful appearance and purity. The gardener does not need to get rid of weeds. Drip irrigation tapes are laid under the layer, thus reducing the amount of physical effort of the gardener to a minimum. But is it really good for cultures?

The main role of using inorganic material is to protect the land from drying out in the heat and suppress the growth of weeds. This is what happens, but the abuse of the use of polymers in the area only worsens the indicators of fertility. The soil, completely closed, does not breathe, there is no aeration. Therefore, it is recommended to remove the shelter after the end of the growing season and dig it up.

Mulching methods

Methods are chosen depending on the ultimate goal. Fine-grained organic mulch is applied for fertilizer and moisture. Film - helps to warm the soil and get an earlier harvest. If you remove it in time, then the young will take root and strengthen faster.

The beds are covered with agrofibre, growing vegetables and fruits on an industrial scale. It is difficult to imagine a strawberry field without such a shelter, the need for weed removal and watering increases significantly. In such cases, you will need to take care of fertilizing the site in advance, and in the process of growth, use foliar feeding of bushes. When choosing agrofibre, keep in mind that dark colors are recommended. If the material is transparent or white, then the light will penetrate, and the weeds will continue to grow actively.

In summer cottages, it is not recommended to resort to inorganic mulch. But if you are already using it, then it is better to clean it for the winter. Organic, on the other hand, remains on the site all year round, in winter it rots and supplies the garden with organic compounds.

Rules for the mulching procedure

You can carry out the procedure twice a year - in autumn and spring. In autumn, after the full harvest, somewhere from mid-October. For the garden, it is recommended to use tree bark, wood chips, nut shells and peat. For the garden - softer materials, for example, straw, sawdust, husks from sunflower seeds.

Before mulching the garden or winter crops, it is recommended:

• Get rid of old dry wood, carry out sanitary pruning of trees and remove excess
• Fertilize plantings
• Carefully dig and level the soil
• Overdried land should be watered or mulched after heavy rains. Dry soil is not covered as the root system will not receive enough nutrient moisture.

Plantations in shady areas are covered with a thin layer, thinner than the rest. The area should be equal to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe crown of a tree or bush.

Mulching garden crops

The procedure is carried out in the spring, after the earth has warmed up to +15 degrees. If carried out too early, then the development of the plant will only slow down. Early culture reception will lead to wilting.

If you decide to mulch the garden during fruiting, it is recommended to carry out after watering and loosening. After harvesting, the summer mulch is dug up with the soil. In the event that the site is not cultivated for the winter, the layer remains for the winter, and shifts in the spring to allow the earth to warm up.

If in your area the winter is mild and the soil does not freeze, then you can leave the mulch alone and leave it for the next season. Produce work on its correct formation.

Germinated weeds should not be allowed to seed. Timely removal is the key to cleanliness. So, the beds will gradually be cleared of weeds, it will be impractical to carry out weeding. Plants will gain comfort, will develop more rapidly, and the harvest will please with abundance.

What mistakes can be made?

The first mistake is too thick a layer, which is especially harmful during active fruiting. It is possible that a healthy plant will begin to rot. With this technique, the roots do not receive the right amount of oxygen and lighting.

It is absolutely pointless to mulch dry soil. Especially in windy weather. The material will simply be pulled apart by the wind throughout the garden. In the spring, the mulch remaining above the roots will only prevent the soil from warming up and slow down the development of the plant.

In the autumn, they are brought in only for processing, it is possible between rows, so moisture will accumulate, it is especially important in regions with little snow. To keep winter moisture in the soil, it is recommended to loosen, having previously assembled the shelter. But such an action is possible if the soil is dry and there is no frost.