How to make a metal sauna stove with your own hands. Metal furnaces for a bath. Schemes and dimensions

When a desire arises on the site, it is necessary to understand that when carrying out work independently, you will have to solve a number of very diverse issues. One of them will be the manufacture and. There are enough options. For example, you can fold a brick stove or make it out of metal. How to cook a stove for a bath with your own hands and will be discussed below.

general description

- This is a special device designed to heat water and air inside the bathhouse. Among the main characteristic features are:

• versatility of application;
• compactness;
• variety of forms;
• high efficiency;
• rapid heating;
• the possibility of self-production.

As for the assembly options, the stove can be based on both sheet metal and a large-diameter thick-walled pipe. In order for the case to be argued, elementary skills in working with a gas burner and an electric welding machine will be needed.

To achieve the best result, a phased implementation of the work is recommended. This approach will allow you not to lose sight of important nuances. It must be understood that, despite the fact that a metal stove will weigh less than its cast-iron or brick counterpart, the load on the floor surface at the installation site will be quite significant. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to make. If you plan to use an electric version of a boiler or stove without a grid with stones, then it may be enough to strengthen the area with several lags. But if we are talking about a full-fledged version, then you can’t do without a foundation. Usually its laying is carried out during the construction of the main structure.

• In the case when the bath is installed on piles, only one pile can be provided for the stove. This will be enough to support her weight.
• If the basis is a strip foundation, then a hole is dug in the place where the heater will be located. Its dimensions should be 10 cm larger on each side of the future unit. Depth from 50 cm. Sand is added to the bottom, with a layer of 10 cm. It is well compacted. Formwork is exposed. Its top point should reach the level of the future floor. Inside, a crate of reinforcement is laid. Concrete is poured and compacted with a vibrator. Otherwise, you can not make such a high formwork. It is enough that it rises 10 cm above the surface. After the poured foundation has completely solidified, the remaining distance can be laid out of brick.

The first described option will be made with a thickness of 8 mm and a length of 60 cm, a diameter of about 50 cm. In order to make it easier to imagine the whole process, the pipe will act as a furnace and is in a horizontal position.

• At a distance of 10 cm from one of the ends in the wall of the pipe, a rectangular cutout 20 × 30 cm is made. Several steel rods with a diameter of 10–12 mm are welded to the cutout with a distance of 1 cm, which will act as grates.
• The ends of the pipe are closed with pieces of sheet metal with a thickness equal to the wall thickness. In the upper part, the metal is cut off along the circumference of the pipe, and at the bottom, you can leave protrusions that will serve as supports.
• A piece of pipe about 50 cm long is welded diagonally from the grate. This will be the main element for making the stove chimney.
• Further, in the plate that closes the end of the stove from the side of the grate, a rectangular hole 30 × 30 cm is cut out, which will serve to load fuel into the stove. It is necessary to close the entrance of the stove with a door made of the same sheet metal. You can hang the door on improvised hinges from welded hooks and nuts.
• A special box with a wall height of about 10 cm must be welded under the hole with grates. It will serve as an ash collector from the combustion chamber. To access it in the plate that closes the end, you need to cut a hole of the appropriate size into which you need to insert a box without a back wall, resembling a scoop. This element will have a dual purpose - ash collection and draft control. The more the “ash pan” is extended, the more powerful the air flow into the combustion chamber will be.
• A water tank is welded to the second end. For its manufacture, sheets with a thickness of 5 mm can be used. The dimensions of the tank should be selected based on the need. A hole is made in the lower plane of the tank into which a drain valve is welded.
• If a decision is made to make a stove-heater, then a series of rods about 35–40 cm high must be welded to the surface of the stove, which must be pulled together with strips of metal on top. The result is a compartment for laying stones.

Sheet Metal Furnace

For the manufacture of this version of the furnace, we need sheet metal with a thickness of 5 mm. The overall dimensions of the final unit will be 80 cm high, 60 cm wide, and 90 cm long.

• Using a grinder or an autogen, we make blanks. The dimensions of two of them should be 70 × 90 cm, two more - 70 × 60 cm. These are four walls. The bottom, partition and top will have dimensions of 59 × 89 cm (this is provided that a material with a thickness of 5 mm is used, if more, then you need to subtract double the thickness to get the final result, this is true, because the walls will be welded around the base ).
• Lay the bottom on a flat surface. We substitute the side wall and fix it with tacks. With the help of a square, we check the consistency of the angle. We do the same with the back face and the second side wall. After the structure is standing, you can weld the seams well along the entire length.
• The next task will be to divide the entire internal space into three compartments: an ash pan, a firebox and an area where stones can be placed.
• In order to best fix the partitions, we need a metal corner with a size of 30 × 30 mm. We make four segments of 89 cm.
• We weld two of them to the side walls at a height of 14.5 cm, the other two - at a height of 44.5 cm.
• In one of the blanks, which will serve as a partition of 59 × 89 cm, we retreat from the edge of 5 cm and make a window with dimensions of 20 × 30 cm. We weld reinforcement rods with a diameter of 10–12 mm into it. They will play the role of grate. The distance between them must be kept at 1 cm.
• With the help of an autogen in the sheet, which will act as the front wall, stepping back from the bottom of 3 cm, we cut out a hole 10 × 30 cm. This will be the door for the ash pan. Having set aside another 5 cm from the finished hole, we make a cutout measuring 20 × 30 cm. It is necessary for laying firewood.
• We weld the front wall into place.
• We put a partition with grates in the middle on the prepared corners and scald it around the entire perimeter.
• We make a hole in the lid for the pipe. Its size will depend on which sleeve is planned to be used.
• We install the cover on the corners and boil on all sides.
• We fix the pipe in its place and boil it around the circumference. If you want to install a water tank on a pipe, then it is better to make it longer, if not, then you can immediately provide an adapter for the chimney.
• Installing doors. To do this, you need 4 M8 nuts, a metal bar that will match the inner diameter of the hole. The nuts are welded to the body, the pieces of the rod are bent and attached to the doors. After that, the doors are hung in hinges.
• The space above the furnace is filled with stones.
• The final touch is the legs. They can be made from a 5 × 5 cm corner. The length should be 10 cm.

Hot water oven

Thanks to the design, which will be described below, it becomes possible to heat the water located in a separately installed tank. We need the same material as in the previous version.

• We make two blanks with dimensions of 60 × 39 cm - this will be the base and the top cover. The side walls will be 60 × 57 cm in size, the back - 60 × 40 cm.
• We make a cutout in the side walls - from the top it will be 20 cm, from the edge - 17 cm. Thus, we will constructively highlight the firebox.
• We weld the side and back walls around the base.
• In the upper plane we make a hole for the pipe, stepping back from the back wall 5 cm. We weld a sleeve under the chimney into the middle.
• We make a shelf from a corner of 30 × 30 cm at a height of 39.5 cm. We install the top cover on the profile and process the seams well.
• We weld the front wall, its size should be 40 × 40 cm. In it we cut out the door for the furnace, its width and length are 26 × 23 cm (it should be at a height of 7 cm from the base of the furnace). We attach loops to it, as in the previous version, and a locking mechanism.
• Under the door in two rows we drill holes with a diameter of 8 mm. They will serve as an influx of fresh air.
• We cut out a blank 20 × 40 cm and close the front wall of the stone section with it.
• We make a container in which water will be heated. To do this, it is necessary to cut out a side with dimensions of 43 × 35 cm, two of 10 × 44 cm and two of 10 × 35 cm. A metal box is assembled from them. All seams are carefully welded so that there are no shells and liquid does not leak.
• Two ¾" pipes are welded into one of the 10 × 35 cm walls above and below, at the base of this module another ½" pipe is attached to drain water.
• Now the whole box is welded onto one of the side walls of the stove. A careful approach to the quality of the seam is also important here.

It is better to approach each stove as an individual project. Only in this case can all wishes be taken into account. Now you have some idea. You can bring something of your own to the above diagrams. We would be interested to know what happened to you. Share your ideas in the comments to the article.

There are a lot of metal stoves for a bath on sale, but good ones cost a lot of money. If you have sufficient experience in welding metal, you can make the furnace yourself, according to your size. About how to make a stove for a bath from metal (sheet), drawings and photos - further.

Metal stove for baths and saunas - what's the difference

There is a significant difference between the modes of soaring in a bath and a sauna. In the sauna, the air temperature is very high - from 85C and much higher. At such a temperature, the humidity simply cannot be high - you will immediately get burned, and the broom will crumble in five minutes. And it is really small, about 5-15%. In the Russian steam room, the temperature is kept within 55-65°C, occasionally rising to 70°C. At such temperatures, the humidity is "catching up" with a large one - 50-60%.

To meet these different challenges, different approaches to building a furnace are required. The sauna requires the largest area of ​​contact between the body of the furnace and the surrounding air and the acceleration of the passage of air flows along the walls. Everything is subordinated to the task of heating the air in the steam room as soon as possible. There is a heater, but it is small, open, usually located above the firebox. The stones in it warm up to a maximum of 200-250 ° C, since they give off a lot of heat to the surrounding air. You can get a little steam from such a heater. But in the sauna you don't need much - one / two ladles will give 15% humidity. Just can't take it anymore.

In the Russian steam room, the task is different - not to overheat the room and achieve a large amount of steam. Moreover, the steam must be of a certain condition - it must consist of very small droplets. It is also called "dry" and it has a high temperature - about 130-150 ° C. Under this condition, after soaring in the body, lightness and a surge of strength are felt. Such steam is obtained only from hot stones, the temperature of which is at least 500 ° C. To reach it, the stones are “packed” inside the firebox - a box is placed in it - a closed heater.

As you can see, there are solid design differences. They must be kept in mind.

Homemade stoves for the Russian bath

What else should be kept in mind when designing a stove for the Russian steam room mode? The fact that having heated metal walls to keep the temperature within the required 60-65 ° C is unrealistic. Be sure to recycle. At the same time, hard IR radiation comes from the walls of the furnace and it is difficult to be nearby. The problem is solved in two ways:

Another thing to talk about is seams. In home-made metal furnaces (in factory ones, in principle, too), burnout often begins precisely from the seams. In production, this problem is circumvented with the help of bent structures. In the upper part, they try to avoid seams altogether. When making a sauna stove with your own hands, you are unlikely to be able to bend a sheet of metal 6-10 mm thick, so there is only one thing left - to make the seams as high quality as possible.

Kamenka: what size and where

The required number of stones depends on the volume of the steam room (provided that the bath is insulated normally). Different sources have different recommendations with more or less - from 20 to 40 kg per 1 m3. In principle, the more stones, the easier it is to get the required amount of steam, but on condition that the stove has enough power to heat them.

The problem is that stones of different breeds have different densities, and, consequently, the same mass occupies a different volume. In principle, for an average steam room with a volume of 12-14 m3, the dimensions of the heater are approximately the following: 30 * 40 * 30 mm. The parameters can be slightly changed, made wider / narrower / higher - look at the design of the furnace.

The ratio of the volume of the furnace to the volume of the heater is a complex heat engineering calculation, which not even every heat engineer is able to master. It is much easier to use ready-made drawings or experimentally determined proportions. As a minimum, the volume of the firebox "free" from the heater should not be less. Better if even more by about 30-50%.

A little about where in the firebox it is best to place a box for stones. Everyone has long come to the conclusion that the highest temperature is in the upper part and at the back wall. This is where it makes sense to place the container. Firstly, part of the thermal load from the roof of the furnace will be removed, and secondly, the stones will heat up well.

Do not forget about the maintenance of the heater and that water must somehow get there. The service hatch must be positioned in such a way that you can easily reach the farthest edge with your hand. And the water supply deep into the heater must be organized so as not to get burned. Usually, a tube or a system of tubes is inserted, which diverge over the entire plane of the stone container. From the side of the room, this tube ends with a funnel. The pipe is lined with stones. When water is supplied to it, it is distributed over the surface of the heater / stones and evaporates.

Drawings of homemade metal sauna stoves

This stove is designed for a steam room 2 * 3 * 2.3 m. It was cooked from sheet metal 3 mm thick.

To activate combustion, an additional air duct is connected, laid from the street. Other solutions include stiffening ribs (corners) welded to the sides of the firebox in the upper part of the firebox so that the metal does not bend when heated.

The following scheme of a metal stove for a bath is made with air supply to the top of the firebox. These are the so-called furnaces with afterburning gases. A metal plate is welded on the back wall. In the gap between this plate and the rear wall of the furnace, air is supplied from under the grates with the help of air ducts. This simple, it seems, the device solves two problems at once. Firstly, it cools the back wall, reducing the likelihood of it burning through. Secondly, the air is supplied to the upper part heated. Flue gases heated to high temperatures are concentrated there, most of which are combustible (up to 80%). When these gases mix with heated air, combustible substances ignite, the temperature in the upper part of the furnace becomes even higher, the stones are heated to higher temperatures. At the same time (when using dry firewood), much less fuel is required. Many long-burning stoves are built on this principle, but it has recently been used in sauna stoves.

Approximately the same model, but without afterburning, is made in a different format. Here the dimensions are not indicated, but it is easier to understand the proportions and arrangement of various elements.

Volumetric model of a home-made stove-heater made of metal

In this case, the volume of the furnace is about 130% of the volume of the heater. Normal ratio. The chimney is shifted back, which is not always good - difficulties may arise when installing the chimney - it can rest against the ceiling beam - the chimney will have to be bent, which is undesirable. So what about the location of the pipe - think about it.

Even among bath lovers, there are constant disputes: a tank for heating water in a steam room is good or bad ... Some regulate the humidity by opening / closing the tank lid. This option suits them. Others say that this steam is “heavy”, and they take the tank to the washing compartment, and heat the water in it by building a heat exchanger into the furnace and connecting it to the tank with pipes. The next scheme is a furnace in a metal bath with a water tank.

The design is competent - with the help of a “spark arrester”, the path of flue gases is longer, it stays in the furnace longer, it heats the walls better. If you do not want a tank, you can put stones in its place.

An interesting option with a tank, which is located at the back of the oven. The chimney is moved back, and passes through the tank. The height of the tank is large, the heat removal will be effective - the temperature of the chimney at the outlet of the tank will not be large for sure.

Interestingly arranged stone. It is not very large, but for small and medium steam rooms its volume is enough. It closes with a lid, which, on the one hand, is not very convenient: closing the lid after water has been supplied to the stones will be problematic. On the other hand, it is convenient to maintain.

How to make a sauna stove

As already mentioned, the main task of this type of heating devices is to quickly “catch up” with the required temperature and be able to maintain it. There is a simple solution - put a fan that will blow over the walls of the furnace, accelerating heating.

Approximately the same function is performed by the casing-convector. This is the casing around the furnace body. A gap of 1.5-2 cm remains between it and the wall of the furnace. Air is sucked into this gap from below. It passes along the walls, heats up, at the same time cooling the walls. Then it rises up, spreading heat throughout the steam room.

If the furnace body is made of thick metal, then the casing can also be made of thin. It rarely heats up to high temperatures, and burnout does not threaten it. If in the sauna stove the heater is located at the top, above the firebox, as in the photo, then holes can be made in the body to ventilate the heater. Then part of the air that rises along the walls will enter the heater, blow over the stones and heat up even more. Such a heater is called ventilated. It is good for dry air saunas.

Drawings and diagrams

The design of sauna stoves is simpler. You need a firebox of a normal size, in which large logs are placed. In the upper part, above the upper part of the firebox, the sides of the heater are welded, the volume of which is usually 20-25 liters. Variations can be in width / height / depth, but there are no special tricks.

Installing a water heating tank in a sauna steam room is not the best idea. You won't be able to control the humidity, and it's easy to get burned at high temperatures. However, several options for installing tanks in the photo above.

Another type of heater is inside the firebox. If desired, you can make a lid on it and such an oven can be used in two modes - with an open lid for dry steaming, with an open one - to get more steam.

Drawings of a metal sauna stove: the simplest designs

The stove in the bath is a mandatory attribute, since it is she who is responsible for heating and then maintaining the temperature. At the same time, there are a number of factory products or brick structures that best meet the necessary requirements. However, drawings of home-made metal bath stoves are especially popular, which make it possible to make a small device that is ideal for specific conditions.

Manufacturing process

To begin with, it must be said that there are a number of similar products that differ in their design and principle of operation. Therefore, the drawings of furnaces for metal baths are different. However, they all have approximately the same principle of operation (see also the article “Stove for a bath from a pipe: manufacturing tips”).

Firebox

• First of all, you need to make a firebox. Everyone determines its dimensions for himself, but professionals advise making the same height with a width of 0.5 meters.
• Many drawings of a homemade metal sauna stove involve the use of some prefabricated elements. These include grilles and doors. At the same time, the craftsmen advise choosing these parts made of metal, since cast iron products will have to be fixed in a special way.

• A typical drawing of a metal sauna stove suggests that the firebox will consist of two sections. In the first of them, fuel is burned, and the second is needed to collect ash. Given this, they are separated by a lattice and separate doors are made.
• It is worth noting that the ash collecting section window is often used to create draft, which is necessary for combustion.
• If the drawing of a metal sauna stove involves the placement of a heater, then the upper part of the firebox is also made of a grate

Advice! For the manufacture of the furnace it is worth using thick metal. So the structure will not lead when heated, and it will be able to generate more heat.

Heater and water tank

• Above the firebox, it is necessary to make a separate chamber with a door, which will be separated by a grate.
• It will interfere with special stones for long-term maintenance of temperature.
• At the same time, drawings of a metal sauna stove recommend making a closing window that can be used to supply water and create steam.
• It should be noted that ordinary stones are not suitable for such furnaces. This is especially true for materials containing silicon or other inclusions.
• The top of this compartment is made with a hole for the pipe. It will remove the smoke, and at the same time heat the water.

• The liquid container is placed on top. At the same time, drawings of furnaces for a metal bath are advised that the chimney pass through its middle. So the water will be heated both from the chimney and from the upper surface of the sauna heater.
• Professional craftsmen recommend installing a crane on the bottom of such a tank. In this case, you need to purchase special devices, the price of which can be high, but they will be able to work for a long time under conditions of a constant temperature drop.

Pay special attention to the lid of the container. It can be made of wood, but then you need to protect the area of ​​\u200b\u200bcontact with the chimney. At the same time, the installation instructions advise making small slots in it for free steam to escape.

Advice! A similar design is usually made from a thick-walled pipe. This helps to address the issue of cheap materials, since such products can be found at recycling centers at a similar cost.

Chimney

When creating a drawing of a metal bath stove, special attention is paid to the chimney, namely the places where it will pass through the roof. The fact is that the pipes during combustion have a rather high temperature and in order to avoid fire they must be additionally insulated. They must also be located at a certain height in order to create constant traction.

Creating stoves with their own hands, many craftsmen advise to purchase finished products that are made specifically for these purposes to organize such passages. At the same time, they are quite often produced in the form of an integral complex with an outer pipe and a fungus.

You also need to think about a protective screen, the task of which is to prevent high temperatures from affecting wood walls. They are best created with a reflective surface to carry out the removal of infrared radiation. These products are often sold ready-made and have a relatively low cost.

Output

In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic. Also, based on the text presented above, we can conclude that the principle of making metal furnaces is quite fast. At the same time, there are a lot of different designs that have their own specific features and characteristics (see also the article “Drawings of a metal stove for a bath with your own hands: how to build a heater in a steam room with high efficiency”).

In this case, special attention should be paid to some factory products, which are presented in the form of doors, chimneys and gratings. They will greatly facilitate the manufacturing process, which means that it is on their basis that drawings should be developed.

Do-it-yourself iron stove for a bath based on a pipe with a diameter of 50 centimeters

Buildings of any type with a steam room need a heating structure capable of heating the air to high temperatures. However, the purchase of a finished product entails considerable financial costs, so individual developers very often make sauna stoves from iron with their own hands. It is the metal that is a good conductor between the combustion chamber and the environment.

Initial information

Home-made structures in steel, when compared with brick counterparts, differ in the speed of construction and increased heat transfer. To carry out the work, it is enough to find a pipe, the diameter of which will be approximately 50 centimeters. Such products are especially relevant for objects that are small in size.

Requirements

• The heating structure must be located in a place where reliable fire protection is provided for materials that are easily flammable.
• The area occupied by this object should not exceed 0.15 percent of the usable area of ​​​​the heated room, since it is not very comfortable to carry out water procedures in a cramped environment.
• The side surfaces of the structure must necessarily be covered with heat-insulating materials so that the risk of burns is minimized.
• When installing, you should take care of the correct location of the stove, because the heat emanating from it should spread in different directions, thereby ensuring high-quality heating.

Basic elements

When an iron stove is made in a bath with their own hands, each novice master must familiarize himself with the main components that make up the structure.

Any of the fragments listed below perform some function, so it is important to study all the details in full.

• The firebox is the main chamber where organic fuel is usually burned to heat the walls and then the surrounding air.
• The blower is located below the previous chamber, providing the collection of ash, which is formed as a result of the combustion of organic matter.
• The capacity for stones allows you to lay cobblestones of jadeite, gabbro-diabase, raspberry quartzite or other analogues resistant to high temperatures.
• The pipe is a hollow product that is necessary to remove combustion products from the main chamber.
• Grate - an element inside the furnace, which makes it possible to hold a layer of solid matter intended for obtaining thermal energy.
• Blower and firebox doors allow you to control the flame by covering, which leads to a decrease or increase in oxygen inside.
• A pipe valve is usually made in the form of a control element that moves perpendicular to the working medium.

Attention!
If the building combines a washing department and a steam room, then the hot water tank is installed directly on the stove.
However, in such a bath, an option with racks over stones is also possible.

Manufacturing process

If do-it-yourself iron stoves for a bath are being built, then the price of the finished structure is very much reduced, since inexpensive metal elements are used in the process of work. The aesthetic characteristics of homemade structures, of course, cannot be compared with market products, but in some situations the money issue comes first, and quality is given more attention.

Basic tools

• Welding machine for connecting individual fragments of the structure.
• Electrodes (three or four) to the set of equipment.
• Bulgarian is necessary for cutting components.

Sequence of operations

1. Rolled pipe is cut so that two parts are obtained, one of which should be 90 cm long and the other 60 cm long. The first will be used as a base. As for the second piece, it will come in handy for the tank.
2. Two holes are made in the base pipe, which will correspond to the dimensions of the firebox and blower. Doors are made from cut parts. Hooks, loops and other accessories are attached to them.
3. Next, a grate is fixed, which is necessary to maintain solid fuel. To do this, holes are cut in the side walls. Ears are welded to the grate itself.
4. A round hole is made on the back of the firebox for the chimney. It should be just above the metal mesh, which performs the function of holding firewood.
5. A container for stones is made from above. As for the hot water tank, it is located closer to the combustion chamber. One part is placed on the firebox, and the other part is installed on the racks.
6. The finished oven is installed on special legs made of metal. There should also be a sheet of iron under it to avoid unpleasant moments associated with the ignition of the floor.

Note!
In some situations, the chimney is passed through a hot water tank so that the heating is somewhat better.
However, with this option, a high-quality welding seam must be made.

Technical standards

For all installed furnaces, certain requirements are imposed, which are reflected in SNiP41-01-2003. In addition, the fire safety rules specified in PPB 01-93 must be observed.

As a conclusion

To make the instruction as complete as possible, additional materials are usually attached to it, which give an idea of ​​​​the installation and assembly work. Therefore, the video in this article is not presented by chance.

When asked how a metal stove differs from a stone one, many answer with a smile and without the slightest hesitation - the material of manufacture. For such an answer, you can put a three on a five-point system for assessing knowledge. To get a higher score, check out the main and fundamental differences, this knowledge will be very useful to you when making a metal stove for a bath with your own hands.

The stone oven is made of heavy bricks, therefore, it has a large mass. And all bodies with a large mass are characterized by significant inertia - they heat up for a long time and give off heat for a long time. For a bath, this is not bad, but only on one condition - the device of the firebox must provide the maximum temperature for burning firewood, otherwise it will take a long time to heat the premises.

The metal furnace, on the contrary, has a small mass, heats up quickly and cools down just as quickly. These features put forward fundamentally new requirements for the firebox, the firewood in it should burn as long as possible. This is the only way to keep the oven hot for a long time.

Another important requirement for the firebox is related to the characteristics of steel. When heated to only + 150 ° C, martensite begins to decompose, it recrystallizes and polygonizes, the physical properties of the metal change.

Look at the table, at this temperature the metal furnace does not change color, it seems to us that everything is fine, but this is no longer the case. Low-temperature tempering occurs at metal temperatures up to +250°, steel loses its resistance to dynamic loads.

The dark brown color of the furnace indicates that the metal has heated up to a temperature of +550°C, and at these indicators, medium-temperature steel tempering begins, martensite turns into ferrite and cementite. Crystalline transformations of a metal change its linear characteristics. Have you noticed that sheet iron, after strong heating and cooling, does not return to its original dimensions? It can swell, lose linearity, etc. The appearance of the stove becomes “very original” and far from the original.

But quite often, the metal oven heats up even more and turns bright red. This color appears at a heating temperature of +900°C. And this is already a high tempering, the metal becomes very soft and ductile, the phenomena of residual deformation increase significantly. The oven may warp, the welds may not withstand the resulting static forces. How to prevent such negative phenomena? It will not be possible to completely get rid of them, but there are ways to minimize them. They will help increase the operating time of a metal stove and improve the comfort of bathing procedures by increasing the time to maintain a favorable temperature in the room.

How to improve the characteristics of a metal stove

We are sure that this knowledge will help you minimize the negative consequences of heating the metal furnace too much. This can be done in two ways: by special preparation of the metal and by the features of the furnace device.

Metal pretreatment

After all the individual elements of the furnace have been cut out, the most heated parts must first be released. The sides and top parts and the firebox door heat up the most. Heat them in any way until red and cool slowly. After vacation, the sheets may warp a little, it's not scary, trim them with a hammer to their original state. Check the dimensions again, if they have changed within noticeable limits, cut to the desired parameters. This simple method will eliminate the warping of the stove during its operation.

Features of the design of the furnace of a metal furnace

Most metal stoves produce the maximum amount of heat in the minimum time, the wood burns out very quickly, the surfaces heat up to high temperatures. It is impossible to maintain a normal and stable temperature in the steam room - you often have to add firewood. The room is either too hot or too cold. Why it happens? Such furnaces in most cases have grates. Their presence is justified in stone ovens, we have already mentioned that these ovens need to be heated quickly. Strong burning of the flame is provided by a large amount of air entering through the grate into the flame.

Grids are made from metal rods, sheet metal with numerous drilled holes or cast iron, they differ in the size of the holes, etc.

The firewood lies on the grate, the air supply is not regulated by anything, on the contrary, all measures are taken to increase the draft, which automatically speeds up the combustion process. The upper part of the oven heats up the most, the sidewalls slightly less, and the bottom and front part heat up slightly.

Such a combustion mode has an extremely negative effect on both the duration of the operation of the stove and the comfort of staying in the steam room. You have to periodically fill the fire with water, if there is not enough water, the flame quickly flares up again, if there is a lot, the burning may stop altogether. In a word, a bathing day instead of pleasure brings a headache.

What do we offer? The solution is very simple - do not make grates with a blower, let the firewood lie at the bottom of the stove, and not on the grate. Seal the firebox door as much as possible; you can use asbestos cord or mineral wool around the perimeter.

Make holes in the firebox door with an ordinary movable damper to regulate the amount of air supplied. One bookmark of firewood in such an oven will burn for more than an hour, it is possible to regulate the temperature of heating surfaces. In addition, the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe stove will warm up. Due to the absence of a grate and an ash pan, work on the manufacture of the furnace was simplified, and efficiency and ease of use increased.

As you can see, all the knowledge came in handy for us, they can be used not only during the manufacture of the sauna stove. We have dealt with the theory, it's time to move on to practice.

Brief description and dimensions of the metal stove

Our design will have a separate tank for heating water and a heater built into the top of the stove. The flame heats the heater from all sides, which significantly increases the efficiency of the stove. You can take arbitrary sizes, consider the parameters of the steam room and the number of people washing at the same time. For example, we give the dimensions of our stove.

1. External stone. Width 50 cm, length 50 cm, height 80 cm.
2. Internal stone. Width 40 cm, length 40 cm, height 50 cm. The distance between the walls of the inner and outer heater is five centimeters around the perimeter.
3. Bake. Width 50 cm, length 90 cm, height 50 cm. You can change the length of the stove, make it only for an external heater 50 cm long (then the water tank will have to be mounted on stops from the side) or increase the length to increase the volume of the tank.
4. Water tank. Width 40 cm, length 50 cm, height 60 cm. 120 liters of water are placed in the tank, which is quite enough for washing three or four people. Of course, hot water must be diluted with cold.

Instructions for the manufacture of a metal furnace

Step 1. Prepare materials. For manufacturing, you need sheet steel, the thicker the better. But this can be very expensive, we recommend using sheets with a thickness of 1.5÷2.0 mm.

Metal sheets 2 mm

Step 2 Make a sketch of the stove, showing all dimensions and parts. Count the number of parts and their total area. This will help you decide on the need for sheet metal.

Step 3 Transfer the dimensions to the metal, cut out all the elements of the furnace. Strictly observe the angles, they should be 90 °, make the opposite sidewalls as identical as possible. You need to cut metal with a circular grinder, follow the safety rules. The grinder is a very dangerous tool, you should not joke with it, as a result, you can get too severe injuries. Burrs after cutting the workpieces should be removed. Before starting welding, double-check the quantity and dimensions of all parts.

Furnace welding

Perform work on a flat area, free the workplace from foreign objects. Let's start with the manufacture of the heater for the stove.

Step 1. Place two sidewalls on the edge at a right angle, start making potholders.

Adjust the current strength, the electric arc should not overheat the metal - the seam will turn out to be uneven and fragile. Tack a few millimeters, 4 ÷ 5 tacks are enough for one corner. Constantly check the position of the sidewalls. After cooling, the weld leads the sheets to the side, align their position. Check the corners with a square. In the same way, grab the two remaining sides of the heater.

Step 2 Put the two prepared blanks together, adjust the corners if necessary and grab the opposite edges of the heater. You have got a heater box, it remains to make the bottom and the lid.

Four connected blank sheets forming a box

Step 3 Grab the bottom and lid. During manual cutting of blanks, it is impossible to achieve ideal dimensions, there will always be deviations. This is not scary, before tacking the bottom and cover, install them in such a way that the difference in dimensions is approximately the same on all sides. Slits of a few millimeters will weld without problems. To prevent the lid from falling into the box, put one side on any stand, as long as it is thin and does not disturb the desired position of the part. Make a few tacks on each side of the heater, as always, pay attention to the position of the elements and correct deviations if necessary.

For the bottom of the inner heater, it is better to take a sheet 10 mm thick. It accounts for the main “ular” of the flame, a too thin bottom can burn out quite quickly and smoke will begin to flow into the steam room. When the heater box is fully tacked, apply full seams.

Step 4. Make a door in the stove. Lay the box horizontally and make a markup. You can cut a hole with a grinder or welding.

In our version, the heater consists of two parts: internal and external. The outer one should have dimensions around the perimeter larger than the inner one by about 10 centimeters for the passage of flame and smoke into the chimney. The inner heater is installed in the outer one on pipes, the diameter of the pipes is arbitrary.

Step 5. Make holes in the lower part of the outer heater for pipes, on which the inner heater will stand. If you don't have pipes, you can use metal bars or rebar. Make sure that the holes are horizontal and at the same height on both sides of the sides of the outer heater.

In the same way, grab the outer heater, the furnace firebox and the water tank. Cut holes in the firebox for firewood. We recommend making holes in such a way that the cut parts of the sheet can be used as doors. To do this, make holes in the furnace 1 cm larger than in the heater, from this blank it will be possible to make a door to it - material is saved.

Video - Making a metal stove for a bath (part 1)

Assembly of individual elements of the furnace into a single structure

Step 1. Prepare four plates for welding two heaters. The dimensions of the plates along the length must correspond to the dimensions of the opening of the external heater.

Step 2 At the top of the outer heater, cut holes for the chimney. The dimensions of the hole must match the pipe you have and provide the necessary draft in the furnace.

Step 3 Along the perimeter of the hole in the stove for the heater, weld metal strips about 2 centimeters high, the dimensions of the opening should correspond to the dimensions of the outer heater.

From the inside of the firebox, weld a corner 45 × 45 m, one side of the corner should go into the hole for the heater and form a square. The side of the square should be 0.5÷1 cm smaller than the dimensions of the heater. The structure will rest against these shelves in the furnace opening. To increase the sealing of the meta-installation of the heater, use sheet asbestos, cut out strips two centimeters wide from it and place it between the bottom of the heater and the stops from the corner. Detachable connection will facilitate the installation of the stove in the steam room. The structures of the stove are made of thick steel, they are large in size and weight; it is impractical to weld the heater to the stove. It is much more convenient to make it collapsible / collapsible, this will facilitate transportation and installation.

Step 4 Weld the firebox door on the hinges. Double seam weld all pre-made structures. The seam is better to put outside and inside.

Step 5 Insert the inner heater into place, it should stand on the pipes and have a vertical position. Using the prepared plates, connect the holes of the inner and outer heaters. If the fastening of the internal heater is in doubt, fix it from above with pieces of metal, squares or fittings. These mounts will be hidden, you can use any metal scrap.

The hole is covered with a door. Asbestos cord around the perimeter of the door, the lid is bolted

Step 6 Weld the top cover of the outer heater. Cut a hole in it for the chimney pipe. Check the quality of all seams, correct gaps if necessary.

The stone is almost ready. The backwardness is only to make a technological hole for cleaning the soot falling from the pipe and to think over the installation of the furnace. Soot will accumulate on the lid of the inner heater. Make a hole on the side of the outer wall of the heater, close it with a bolted lid, use an asbestos cord to seal it. Gently grind all the corners with a grinder, remove the burrs.

We offer to install the oven on metal legs. The height of the legs is at least 40 centimeters, asbestos must be placed below, a metal sheet on top. These are fire safety regulations.

Video - Stove for a bath (stages of assembling a double heater and installing it on a welded combustion chamber)

Video - Sauna stove (final part)

We have already mentioned that each master in the course of manufacturing the stove can make his own changes and adjustments, taking into account his own preferences and the individual characteristics of the steam room. The changes concern not only the dimensions of the furnace, but also its design. We give a few hints for possible use.

It is better to make the legs in the form of a longitudinal slide - the pressure on the flooring is significantly reduced, the loads are distributed evenly over several floorboards. This is very important, the stove itself is quite heavy, and you also need to keep in mind the weight of stones and water. For the manufacture of legs, any available metal of suitable dimensions is suitable, and for the sled, you can take a 50 × 50 mm square. The ends of the sled should not protrude beyond the perimeter of the stove, otherwise you can injure your legs.

Refractory bricks can be placed on the bottom and sides of the stove - the metal heats up less and the heat lasts longer. There are two types of refractory bricks: heat conductive (heavy) and heat insulating (light). The latter are used for laying smelting furnaces, they keep the surfaces cold, despite the huge temperature inside. Make no mistake, do not take such materials. A fire-resistant brick for a bath stove should conduct heat well, pay attention to this. If you plan to lay bricks, then increase the size of the firebox by the size of the brick.

Firebox and heater doors can be made from plates obtained after cutting holes. To do this, make the cuts as even as possible, use thin discs to reduce the width of the slot. Working with them is more difficult and longer, but in the end you will still save time - you won’t have to waste it on making individual doors. It goes without saying that metal is also saved.

The dimensions of the doors will be smaller than the dimensions of the holes by the width of the cut, the doors can “fall through” into the firebox or heater. To exclude such situations, door stops should be welded on the reverse side of the holes. You can use narrow strips of metal. It is advisable to weld the stops around the entire perimeter of the holes, and not at several points, in this way you will increase the tightness of closing the doors.

It is better to make a water tank from stainless steel; for welding stainless steel, you need to use special electrodes. Adjust the current of the welding machine specifically for stainless steel, remember that it is more difficult to cook it, some experience is required.

If small children are washing in the bath, be sure to make a protective fence around the stove. It can be portable or stationary, it doesn't matter. The main thing is that the fence guarantees the safety of children.

If during the operation of the stove it turned out that its power is not enough to heat the room - do not be discouraged. The heat transfer performance of the stove can be significantly improved by increasing the effective area. Weld any metal plates on the sides and top, they will act as heat exchanger radiators. There is another way to increase heat transfer. To do this, you will need curved pipes with a diameter of about 50 centimeters. Weld them to the sides of the stove, one end of the pipe should be located under the stove, and the other above it. As a result of the temperature difference, draft will appear in the pipes, cold air is drawn in from the floor under the stove and thrown out hot above it. The stove will work on the principle of the Buleryan stove.

We recommend making an adjustable air supply on the firebox door. The easiest way is to make a blower from a pipe. You will need a piece of pipe ≈10 centimeters long and a piece of sheet metal of the same size. Make a hole in the middle of the door for the diameter of the pipe. From sheet metal, cut a circle with a diameter a few millimeters smaller than the nominal diameter of the pipe. Drill two holes in the walls of the pipe, they must lie strictly on the same line and on the axis of the pipe. The distance of the holes from the end of the pipe is at least half the diameter, otherwise the damper will not completely block the gap, which will impair the ability to adjust the amount of fresh air supply.

Insert a piece of wire rod of the appropriate diameter into the holes, bend the upper end in the form of a handle. Weld a circle cut out of sheet steel to the wire rod, fix the manufactured damper to the hole in the firebox door.

There is another way to make adjustable door openings. Drill holes with a diameter of 10 ÷ 20 mm in the lower part, the centers of the holes should lie on the same line. Weld a metal plate from the bottom and top of the holes, the distance between the plates and the door should be equal to the thickness of the valve. The plates will serve as guides for the valve. Open one or more holes as needed during the firing of the stove.

These are not all possible improvements to a metal stove, think for yourself and engage in technical creativity. This process brings real pleasure, believe the professionals.

Stoves for the bath "Heat": photos, specifications, drawings, diagrams + VIDEO

Additional information about sauna stoves "Heat" (we have previously published reviews about stoves "Heat"). The brands of stoves and their sectional view are indicated - this can be useful to those who plan to make a home-made stove from a pipe.

Heat standard 500

The furnace has a furnace box 250 mm wide.

Furnace "Zhara-standard 500"

Technical characteristics of the oven "Zhara-standard 500"

Drawing of the furnace "Heat-standard 500"

Since the stove is small, it is good for a small steam room.

Heat-baby 700

The water heating tank is installed on top of the stove.

Furnace "Zhara-baby 700"

Technical characteristics of the furnace "Zhara-baby 700"

Scheme of the furnace "Zhara-baby 700"

Scheme of the furnace "Heat"

Heat Standard 650

The furnace with a hinged tank.

Furnace "Zhara-standard 650"

Technical characteristics of the oven "Zhara-standard 650"

Scheme of the furnace "Zhara-standard 650"

Heat-super 800

Visually, the stove is not much different from the Heat-Standard 650 stove. As for the thickness of the metal of the furnace pipe, Zhara-super has it, it is 2 mm larger (10 mm).

Furnace "Zhara-super 800"

Technical characteristics of the furnace "Zhara-super 800"

Scheme of the furnace "Zhara-super 800"

Scheme of the furnace "Zhara-super 800"

Attentive readers, looking at the diagrams, probably noticed that in order to increase the power of the furnaces, the chimney outlet is shifted relative to the outlet of hot gases from the furnace. Thanks to this simple trick, it is possible to increase the area of ​​​​intensive heating of the upper part of the firebox, above which the heater is located.

Finally, a slightly silly video with the help of which sauna stoves manufactured by the Zhara company are advertised.

The origins of the Russian bathing tradition are in ancient times. This fact determines a number of characteristic features. For a Russian person, the real heat of a heated stove and a steamed birch broom are important.

In this concept, modern showers, whirlpools, steam generators, bathtubs and electric heaters do not stand up to scrutiny. A Russian person appreciates the bathhouse for the opportunity to communicate, perform a purification ceremony, and discuss the news with friends. Today, not a single building of a country house is complete without the construction of a bathhouse.

Peculiarities

High business intensity tires a person. To replenish the forces it is necessary to return to nature, its sources. The tightness of bathrooms, synthetic showers do not contribute to peace and relaxation. There is only one place where not only dirt is washed away, but also fatigue - this is a country bathhouse.

The main attribute of the domestic bath is a do-it-yourself stove of an individual design. This is usually an economical device that generates abundant heat.

Metal heaters meet these requirements and significantly outperform electric and gas heat generators.

The advantages of homemade metal furnaces are as follows:

• do-it-yourself, while it is enough to have basic electric welding skills;
• are much cheaper than brick counterparts;
• do not require special knowledge when performing masonry;
• when lining with bricks, it is not inferior to brick counterparts in terms of heat transfer;
• small size, which is critical for small rooms;

• ease of use, operation does not require skills;
• can be fired with any type of solid fuel;
• speed of preparation - usually within an hour.

The disadvantages of metal furnaces include the following:

• limited number of modifications;
• inevitable deformation under the influence of temperature;
• low heat capacity, which is compensated by brick lining;
• dry air;
• in the absence of a heater, there is a possibility of thermal shock;
• effective only in small spaces.

Iron stoves appeared at the end of the 19th century. The prototype of such devices is the so-called potbelly stove, equipped with a steel tank, a door and a chimney. This unusual term appeared quite a long time ago and there are two assumptions about its origin.

The first option is that this name was formed due to the natural "voracity" of the design and low efficiency. Folk fantasy combined these qualities with the concept of "bourgeois", which "eats" a lot of firewood and gives little heat. Only true nationality can explain the perfect polarity of the second interpretation. It is known that this stove became popular during the bourgeois revolution, because it was undemanding to fuel and worked quite efficiently.

It is worth considering in more detail its design features. Today there are a lot of similar stoves, but they are connected by practicality. This is the first thing that comes to mind when getting acquainted with the process of their work, regardless of whether we have a retro version or a modern high-tech copy created using nanotechnology and composites.

Despite the fact that a potbelly stove is the simplest heating device, its design clearly complies with the principles of heat transfer.

Today, a metal stove for a bath is in great demand due to its exceptional properties and advantages. Modern technologies allow to achieve optimal heat transfer and long burning.

It is necessary to consider in detail the device of this heating device. The design ensures the implementation of two functions - this is the heating of the heater and space.

A conventional iron bath stove includes several functional blocks, such as:

• furnace- this is a zone for burning an energy carrier;
• heat exchange device provides heat exchange with the heater and heats the space;
• heater- these are specially selected stones that are a source of heat in the steam room;
• chimney removes volatile combustion products from the room;
• water heating tank usually made of stainless steel.

Types of structures

The general scheme of a metal furnace is divided into different types. Homemade designs have significant differences depending on local conditions.

They are due to the following factors:

• type of fuel used. A wood-burning firebox is usually used;
• construction type. They differ in the location of the firebox, for example, the firebox from the dressing room;
• heating method.

There are many varieties of heating equipment for a sheet metal bath, which may differ in operating parameters. The determining factor is the type of structures, the set of functional properties of the device depends on it, and the method of installing a metal furnace in a bath.

There are three basic varieties, such as:

• closed;
• open;
• combined.

Closed

To increase the heat capacity and optimize heat transfer, the metal base is lined with bricks. For the most part, such ovens are “homemade”. The basis of the structure is sheet metal with a thickness of 1.5–2 mm. According to the standard layout, the firebox is located in the dressing room, and the heater is placed in the steam room. The front surfaces are hidden with a brick layer.

To ensure the fastening of dissimilar materials, steel staples are welded to the base. Their length is made a few millimeters smaller than the dimensions of the brick.

The closed heater is located above the firebox, protection from above is provided by a sheet of steel. The side door on the side of the steam room serves to supply water and create steam.

A closed stove has the following advantages:

• insignificant cost;
• unlimited possibilities of adaptation to the local features of the premises.

The disadvantages include the following:

• specificity of installation work, due to the heterogeneity of materials;
• self-made solutions do not provide the required technological level, which reduces the service life.

open

Fans of fast steam prefer an open metal stove for a sauna. The open design implies a special relationship. In order to create optimal heating of stone surfaces, it is necessary to ensure that the maximum area of ​​​​the outer surface of the furnace is in contact with the heater. To increase the efficiency, the masters resort to various tricks. For example, changing the configuration of the heater, which increases its area in the combustion zone. This solution speeds up the heating of the stones.

Design efficiency can be increased by using a valve that controls the heat supply to the heater area. This principle is widely used by some oven manufacturers who create intricate steam passage systems. "Light" steam is formed when passing through the stone layer of the outer heater. Feels like its quality is not inferior to the steam formed in the old stone stoves.

The advantages of an open metal sauna stove are as follows:

• ease of use;
• low fuel consumption;
• great efficiency.

Such a modification of a metal stove for a bath is an optimal alternative to traditional stone counterparts. The indisputable advantage of the design is its adaptability for small spaces. Of the shortcomings, only high cost can be distinguished.

An effective mode of operation is provided exclusively by factory models. "Homemade" do not have the necessary thermal conductivity characteristics, which reduces their effectiveness.

Combined

Such designs are distinguished by the presence of an additional space heating system. This allows even in the absence of autonomous heating to achieve a comfortable temperature.

The main source of heat is the firebox. An additional heat circuit is placed above the firebox. With this design, the surface of the furnace is heated by transferring heat through the air gap. Typically, these stoves have an open heater design.

A well-thought-out internal system of heating pipes located along the perimeter of the room heats the steam room and the entire bath in a short time. A pipeline is connected to the furnace branch pipe. The thermal energy of fuel combustion heats the air of the internal circuit and causes it to circulate. The air supply to the internal circuit is regulated by a louvre grille.

Combined ovens have such advantages as:

• one-time heating of the steam room and the room;
• Simplified temperature control.

The disadvantages of metal stoves for a bath include the following:

• complex design;
• high price;
• limited number of modifications.

How to make with your own hands?

Before implementing a simple project, it is necessary to take into account local conditions in order for the installation to be successful and the wood-burning stove to be efficient. The comfort of the conditions of the Russian bath depends on the successful ratio of the size of the steam room, the location of the stove and how the heater is designed.

What is the best metal to make?

The iron furnace has a number of features, on which its efficiency and service life depend. The temperature in the fuel combustion chamber exceeds +450ºС. Such heating leads to deformation of the material. The metal plate is subject to burnout under the influence of fire. If stainless steel sheets more than 10 mm thick are used for the construction, this can be avoided, but the warm-up time of the room and fuel consumption increase significantly. Such a furnace would be economically disadvantageous.

To make a solid oven without the danger of deformation and burning, as well as with good thermal conductivity, you need to have real skill. In the factory, the structures are made according to proven technologies from heat-resistant materials.

Installation of a home-made stove should be carried out according to carefully verified drawings, taking into account all the nuances.

• 08x17T It is a high-alloy stainless steel that does not corrode even at high temperatures. AISI 430 is steel grade 08x17T. It does not change the structure up to +850ºС, has a low carbon content, and simplifies possible repairs.
• Steel is used for self-production of the combustion chamber 10 GOST 1050-88. Convection parts are made from 08PS and 08YU GOST 19904-90. Sheet structural steel is optimal for the body. The combustion chamber door must be suitable for maximum thermal loads. An excellent choice is a cast-iron door.

Schemes and drawings

The main functional blocks are as follows:

• combustion chamber (fuel chamber);
• platform with stones (heater);
• water tank (water tank).

In order for the stove to be effective, it is necessary to have a clear idea of ​​​​the functional purpose of these parts. Further, a calculation is made, which takes into account the size of the room and other local features. A firebox is a place where wood is burned. It needs a door to load fuel and air flow for intensive combustion. Such a device is called a blower. Removal of combustion products (ash) should occur without removing firewood, this is achieved by means of an ash pan - a special grate.

From the fuel chamber, thermal energy rises to the platform with stones. To enhance heat transfer, they are placed on a grate.. It plays the role of connecting the firebox and the bunker with stones. The bunker can be closed and open. The change of stones and the supply of water on their surface is provided by a special door. Above is a tank for heating water. Often a chimney is run through it to increase efficiency.. Usually, water is poured from above, and drained through a tap at the bottom.

Assembly and installation

To perform the work, you will need the following basic tool:

• standard welding machine;
• scissors for cutting metal;
• measuring tools.

Every person with basic metalworking skills and the ability to read simple blueprints can make a sauna stove with their own hands. Despite the material costs and the time spent, the savings will exceed expectations. It is necessary to consider in detail the manufacture of a metal furnace with a bath tank with dimensions of 700 mm (diameter) and 1600 mm (height).

In order to weld the frame, you will need the following materials:

• steel sheet (thickness depends on the steel grade) with dimensions of 2.2x1 m;
• metal pipe - 1600 mm high, walls - from 7–10 mm;
• pipe (chimney) of arbitrary diameter, walls - 5 mm;
• metal rod - 10 mm;
• grate made of steel, cast iron;
• 8 loops and 3 heck;
• tap.

The algorithm of work includes several main stages:

• It is necessary to cut the pipe into two parts 0.7 and 0.9 meters.
• In the lower part of the blower pipe, a rectangular hole 20x5 centimeters should be made. The blower is located under the firebox, usually at a height of 7-10 centimeters from the foundation and above the container under the ash hole. Above the blower, you need to make a hole for loading fuel. The cut metal can be used to make doors.
• Ears and hinges should be welded to the pipe for the doors, latches on the doors, put the doors of the blower and the combustion chamber.
• It is necessary to cut a metal circle 0.7 m. Place a grate in the middle. If you could not pick up a grate in the store, you should build a grate from a metal rod. The resulting structure is welded to the pipe above the blower.
• It is necessary to make access for watering stones and put a door on it.

• From a steel bar, a grate for a platform for stones should be made.
• It is necessary to cut a circle with a diameter of 0.7 m from a sheet of metal. Make a hole for the chimney. It is usually located in the part that will be located at the far wall of the furnace. The chimney pipe needs to be welded. Above the platform for stones (or a closed bunker), the structure made should be welded.
• Next, it is necessary to weld a length of 0.7 m to the long part of the large pipe. Mount a tap at the bottom of the water tank.
• A circle cut out of a steel sheet (0.7 m) must be cut into two different parts. In the larger one, cut a hole for the chimney, put this part on the smoke exhaust pipe and weld it. The smaller part is attached to the hinges and forms a hatch for filling water.

How to make a stove for a bath from a pipe, see the following video.

As you can see, it is not so difficult to make and install a metal furnace with your own hands. Depending on your own priorities and the design of the bath room, some nuances, such as a heat exchanger, screen, air supply, may differ significantly. Everyone can build their own bath with a metal stove.

Finishing

In most cases, stove finishing is done to create an attractive look. However, do not neglect the special properties of decorating materials. They can play the role of a screen and increase the heat capacity of furnaces. Often the cladding is done with bricks.

Some people prefer to make stove equipment for a bath on their own. This is due not only to the economy mode, but also the ability to assemble exactly the stove that is suitable for a particular room. If you are also going to make a do-it-yourself sauna stove from metal with a water tank, the drawing is far from the only thing you will need. Knowledge, ability to read blueprints, appropriate tools and materials. And in any case, a home-made stove will allow you to rationally spend money and translate all your ideas into the unit.

The quality and benefits of a bath largely depend on which stove is installed and how it works. The difference between a real Russian bath and a hammam or sauna lies in the high (over 70%) humidity in the room at a temperature of at least 80 0 C.

Often such a stove is made of stone, for which fireclay (clay) bricks or granite are suitable. Any other stones simply will not withstand the heat and may burst when water hits them. Recently, metal stoves have become popular, which are in no way inferior to stone ones. Such ovens can be purchased at most specialized stores, but each of them will need fine-tuning. Do-it-yourself stoves are much more economical, but just as efficient.

Video 1 Sauna stove

Homemade models

There are 2 main constructive varieties of homemade sauna stoves:

• vertical, which can be made from a thick-walled pipe of the appropriate diameter;
• horizontal, based on a metal barrel or an inactive gas cylinder.

In this article, we will tell you how to make each do-it-yourself bath stove from metal with a water tank - drawings, a detailed description, a list of materials and expert recommendations.

Horizontal

The drawing of a horizontal stove for a bath is quite simple. According to the same principle, with minor modifications, the Heat ovens are manufactured.

• angle grinder (grinder);
• two pipe fragments 10-12 mm long, 750 mm long, 500 mm in diameter;
• fragment of a pipe 350 mm with a diameter of 200 mm;
• chimney pipe with a diameter of 114 mm;
• reinforcement or rods;
• 2 sets of door hinges;
• 3-5 metal sheets 8-ka;
• 4 sheets of stainless steel from which the tank will be welded;
• tap.

The design of the furnace provides for the possibility of installing a tank both on the furnace body and separately. The heating time varies slightly.

1. The main pipe 750 mm is located horizontally, this will be the furnace body. For stability, you can immediately weld a stand on it. Often the supports are made from end pieces, this adds aesthetics and the stove looks more finished.
2. A third of the diameter was measured from the lower boundary of the pipe, and from this point you measure the distance from the wall to the wall of the pipe.
3. Cut out a rectangle from a steel sheet, where the smaller side will be equal to this distance, and the larger one - 75 cm. This is the future base for firewood.
4. In the center of the cut out rectangle, cut out a square for the grate. The size of the square should match the finished grate, or weld rods or reinforcement here.
5. Insert the resulting structure into the pipe and weld along the edges.
6. For the manufacture of end sidewalls from steel sheets, cut out 2 rectangles 70 x 53 cm and fix them on the main pipe by welding.
7. For future doors of the blower and firebox, cut holes on the front part. Weld the hinges and put on the doors.
8. On the top of the pipe, make a hole for the chimney. Its diameter is not critical, but should not differ greatly from the size of the chimney. Put on the pipe and brew it. The chimney itself can be put on at the very end so that it does not interfere with further work.
9. Cut a 350 mm pipe into 2 equal parts, after which you weld the edge of one of them. Exactly in the center, make a hole for the chimney pipe so that the diameters match. Cover the case with a lid so that the holes do not match. This direction failure is designed to keep the smoke out and keep the stove warm. The whole structure is welded.
10. You weld a basket for stones from reinforcement or steel bars, install it above the firebox, putting it on a hemisphere (see diagram).
11. From stainless steel, you weld a tank of a suitable diameter, separately for it you make a removable cover with a handle and fasteners on which the tank will be hung.

Video 2 We make a metal sauna stove with our own hands from A to Z

Vertical model

It should be noted that the choice of design depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe steam room or the room where it will be installed and the ability to work with the material. If there is a desire and faith in one's own strength, in order to make a do-it-yourself sauna stove from metal with a water tank, the drawing is the most important thing.

Experienced craftsmen consider this kind of stove to be the least efficient and very impractical. In order for the stove to cope with its tasks, the water tank must be placed at the top.

Necessary tools and materials:

• welding machine and electrodes;
• Bulgarian;
• brush for cleaning seams (if you have experience, you can clean it with a grinder);
• 1.5-meter fragment of a pipe 8-10 mm thick with a diameter of 500-550 mm;
• 2-meter pipe with a diameter of 100 mm;
• metal sheet 10-14 mm;
• paint for metal;
• firebox door

All materials can be purchased at scrap metal collection points, but they must all be solid, without corrosion holes.

• Cut a pipe with a diameter of 500-550 mm lengthwise into 3 segments of approximately the same length.
• A firebox is made from the first fragment, for which 2 circles of the corresponding diameter are cut out of a metal sheet and the bottom and top of the pipe are welded.
• A hole is cut out on the front side of this pipe for loading fuel, after which hinges are welded to it and a door is put on.
• On the upper part of the pipe (in the lid), a grinder cuts a hole with a diameter of 85-90 mm, to which a 100 mm pipe is welded. This is the future chimney.
• The basis of the design does not imply the presence of an ash pan and, accordingly, a grate for separating the combustion chamber. If you wish, you can make such an element (see above), but at the same time, the height of the furnace should not be less than 500 mm.

According to a similar principle, furnaces for the Finnish bath are made.

There are more efficient types of stoves, where the chimney is installed from the second chamber. But in this case, you will have to cut several holes on the top.

• After the firebox is finished, a second piece of pipe 750 mm is put on it and welded around the perimeter. This bunker will contain stones for the future furnace, which is responsible for proper heat exchange in the steam room.

This is how a ready-made vertical stove for a bath looks schematically in a section:

In each compartment, it is necessary to make a hole for the chimney pipe. All junctions of the compartments with the pipe are carefully welded, and the seams are cleaned.

• A tank will be created from the third pipe fragment, which is also put on the finished structure and welded around the perimeter. The heating of water in this compartment will be carried out simultaneously from the metal and the gases released during combustion moving up the chimney.

When using electric arc welding, it is necessary to use electrodes for the corresponding metal so that the seam that is created during the welding process heats up at the same time and does not burst.

• The lid for the tank is cut according to the diameter of the pipe from a thick-walled sheet in such a way as to go around the chimney. Some craftsmen are used to cover wooden shields, but this is impractical.

Upon completion of all work, the seams are cleaned with a grinder or a metal brush, the stove is primed and covered with a special heat-resistant paint for metal. The price of such paint is quite high, but it will last at least 10-15 years of regular operation of the furnace.

1. For simultaneous and uniform heating of the steam room and dressing room, the stove should be installed in 2 rooms. At the same time, the loaded firebox is located in the dressing room, and the container with stones and the water tank are in the steam room. This will make operation more efficient and safer.
2. The wall in which the stove will be mounted must not be made of flammable materials. If this is not possible, the wall should be separated from the furnace with asbestos sheets, sewn, in turn, with metal.
3. Before using the stove, it is necessary to make and repeatedly check the supply and exhaust ventilation. This will eliminate the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.

As you can see, anyone can make a do-it-yourself sauna stove from metal with a water tank - a drawing, step-by-step explanations, videos and recommendations from the masters will help you with this.

Metal stoves are very popular due to their low cost, and are widely used for heating country houses, baths, utility rooms, garages.

For example, on the website of the company Teplodar https://www.teplodar.ru/catalog/otopitelnie-pechi-kaminy/ there are 6 stoves for heating a house and a summer residence at a price of 6,760 rubles.

But you can do it yourself, it's not so difficult. Of course, they have, as advantages, in comparison with brick ovens, but there are also disadvantages.

Design features

The simplest design of a metal furnace is the so-called potbelly stove. Its design is quite simple: a metal box with legs, a door, a pipe for removing combustion products. The main disadvantage of this furnace is high fuel consumption and low heat transfer. And also a big minus is the risk of fire.

The Russian name for this type of stove is based on an association with a caricature of a bourgeois, depicted as a man with a fat belly.

https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%91%D1%83%D1%80%D0%B6%D1%83%D0%B9%D0%BA%D0%B0

Simple oven "potbelly stove"

Modern metal stoves are much safer than stoves. Their production is carried out from sheet steel, up to 4–5 mm thick. The design provides a special chamber for laying stones. It is planned to equip a water tank as a heat storage device with a volume of up to 70 liters. For uniform heating of the furnace, as well as to reduce its fire hazard, it is recommended to line the furnace with heat-resistant bricks.

Some samples of modern stoves

Advantages

• The metal is quite strong, but also a more pliable material that allows you to give it any shape. Able to withstand large temperature differences and heavy loads during operation of the product.
• It is worth noting the high efficiency of a metal stove, reaching 95%.
• The thermal conductivity of the metal is high, respectively, the furnace warms up and the room heats up quite quickly.
• The strength of the metal with decreasing thickness only grows, in contrast to ceramics.
• The weight of the furnace is an order of magnitude, and sometimes more, lower than that of a stone or brick one, which, in turn, makes it possible to abandon the construction of a bulky monolithic foundation.
• The low cost of heat produced (for metal stoves is 10–20 times lower than for brick stoves) is another plus in the treasury of the advantages of this type of stove.
• An important factor is the transportability of such a stove and ease of installation on site, you only need to bring the chimney.
• As unnecessary, it can be easily removed for storage until the next heating season.

disadvantages

• Probably the most basic drawback is that the stove does not “breathe.” While a brick stove absorbs moisture during cooling, thereby maintaining optimal humidity. A slight “breathing” of the furnace will appear after facing with bricks, but mobility will disappear, and dimensions will increase.
• Due to the low heat capacity of the metal, heat transfer after fuel combustion usually does not exceed 2-3 hours.
• A big disadvantage of a metal furnace is its lifespan. At operating temperatures, the metal actively reacts with moisture contained in the air, and as a result, it corrodes rapidly. The service life of a metal furnace usually does not exceed twenty years. But this is fully compensated by an easy and inexpensive replacement of the furnace and cheap fuel.

Kinds

At the moment, the market offers two types of metal stoves for the home made of cast iron and steel. Cast iron stove in terms of heat transfer is between brick and steel. The option of a cast-iron stove for making with your own hands disappears immediately, since it is necessary to organize the process of casting cast iron, which in principle is impossible in a suburban area. This requires special equipment. But a sheet metal furnace can be built with your own hands, and in some cases practically without spending money.

Cast iron oven

A sample of a prefabricated steel furnace.

Stove made of sheet steel

Principle of operation and design

Consider the general scheme of operation of furnaces. The main applied schemes in the figures:

Schemes of the principle of operation of furnaces

chamber system

In the furnace of the chamber system, the products of combustion are bypassed into the gas chamber and there they are burned out. The air flow is formed naturally. In chamber furnaces intended for domestic use, the furnace and the afterburner are located in one module - the crucible. For complete afterburning of gases, the chamber must be with vaulted walls. A good example of a chamber system is the Russian oven. With some improvement, chamber furnaces are quite efficient.

channel system

In the channel system, the forced movement of gases from the fire source, through the channels inside the stove, to the chimney is organized. The products of combustion, burning down and passing through the channels, cool down, giving off heat to the stove. The efficiency of such a furnace is about 60%, and in order for the gases to begin to burn out, you must first bring the furnace to an operating temperature of 400 degrees.

Bell system

In this system, the gases are under the dome of the hood and, when burned, descend along the walls of the furnace, giving off the remaining heat. In this system, to start burning gases, it is necessary to warm up a small area of ​​the bell dome. The efficiency in furnaces of this type can reach 70% or more.

Schemes of metal furnaces and improvements

It is well known that the metal heats up quickly, but it also cools down quickly, the low heat capacity makes it an unimportant heat storage, but if some properties of the material are taken into account, classical schemes can be applied to metal furnaces and get the most out of them, since heat losses for heating are minimized. Let's consider two schemes.

Schemes of metal furnaces

Chamber (A)

A typical representative is a "potbelly stove". Its prototypes, indoor stoves, were used in the 19th century and were extremely voracious in terms of fuel. In times of devastation and upheaval after the revolution, the “bourgeois” improved and was christened with its current name.

The following improvements have been made:

1. To adjust the heat transfer power, a grate was inserted into the crucible and a blower with a door.
2. The diameter of the chimney is 9–10 millimeters per 0.23 kilocalories of thermal energy.
3. Small height of the chimney, up to 3 meters from the plane of the grate.
4. The beginning of the chimney up to 1–1.5 m is made vertically and covered with heat-insulating non-combustible material.
5. Further, the chimney continued with a horizontal section - a pine forest - at least 2.5 m long, it was inserted into the window and another vertical segment of 1–1.5 meters was added to provide traction.

Duct (B)

The potbelly stove is easy to adapt to the channel scheme. Of course, only the appearance will be common with a brick stove. There will be little use from the channels due to the high thermal conductivity of the metal, only a horizontal section remains from the original system, separating the afterburner and the furnace. Additional air for afterburning gases comes from the holes on the hob or through a separate adjustable air duct. The outlet of the chimney is horizontal.

Improvement results:

1. Thanks to the afterburning of gases in a localized place, the efficiency has grown to 70-80%
2. The released thermal energy increased by 2–3 times.
3. The stove is undemanding to the traction force and the characteristics of the chimney, it behaves like a simple potbelly stove: the draft has increased, the combustion and rarefaction of the environment in the afterburner have increased. More secondary air enters and the gases will burn out completely.
4. Since the main power is produced in the afterburner, the furnace can operate in two modes: flame and long burning.
5. Good heat transfer from the furnace through a rather thin partition gives the afterburner the right temperature for the ignition of unburned gases, so the furnace enters the operating mode almost instantly.
6. Separate air supply to the furnace and afterburner allows the furnace to be adjusted for almost any solid fuel.
7. The heat transfer power of the furnace can be easily adjusted by the level of air supply on the blower. In a classic potbelly stove, air power control is very limited.
8. Thanks to the afterburner, the temperature under the hob is kept in the range of 250–300 degrees, which is quite comfortable for cooking.
9. The high release of thermal energy from the stove allows you to evenly and quickly warm up the room.
10. A heat exchange circuit for hot water supply can also be placed at the chimney inlet.
11. Using high-quality firewood or coal, you will have to clean the chimney once every 5 years.

Drawing and calculation of parameters

What dimensions the oven will have and how it will look like, everyone must decide for himself. People with engineering thinking and practical skills can make their own adjustments to the simplest design to improve and simplify the system.

Sketch and drawing of a potbelly stove:

Potbelly stove drawing

Materials and tools

• Drawing and sketch of the future design with dimensions.
• Sheet metal, 4–5 mm thick.
• Steel corners.
• Steel pipes with a diameter of 15–20 mm or fittings with a diameter of 10–12 mm for the grate.
• Metal pipe with a diameter of 180 mm.
• Arc welding, electrodes 3.
• Angle grinder (grinder) with a cutting wheel, hammer, tape measure, pencil or marker.

How to make a metal oven with your own hands: step by step

1. The furnace body will be assembled from rectangular steel sheets, butt welded. We take a grinder and cut five rectangles according to the dimensions given in the drawing. We will deal with the front part later, as there will be a door for the firebox and a blower.

   

   Cut to size sheets of steel

2. First you need to weld the sides to the bottom. We first substitute one side panel to the bottom, controlling the right angle between the planes with a square and tack the joint at several points by welding. We make the second sidewall by analogy with the first. We check the right angles, the width of the bottom corresponds to the distance between the side walls at the top where the hob will be. After making sure that everything is correct, we weld the joints completely.
3. We weld the back wall to the side panels and the bottom. We mark the side walls from the inside for the smoke circulation of the furnace and ash pan according to the drawing into three zones. There will be a grate between the firebox and the ash pan, on which the fuel is directly placed. To attach it to the inner surface of the sidewalls at a height of 10-15 cm from the bottom, corners are welded to the entire length of the panels. Corners should be welded with the shelf down.

   

   Welding of walls and corners to them

4. We proceed to the manufacture of the grate. From the materials you will need: trimming water pipes with a diameter of 15–20 mm and a length equal to or greater (the excess is cut off) of the internal width of the furnace. Instead of pipes, fittings with a diameter of 10-12 mm are perfect. Reinforcement or two steel bars with a diameter of 15–20 mm or strips of thick (4–5 mm) steel along the length of the stove.
5. We place the fittings (tubes) on the bars with a step of 3–5 cm and weld them securely.

   

   Production of a grate

6. The grill must be removable, so it is not welded to the corners. The need to remove the grate arises when cleaning and repairing the potbelly stove or replacing the grate itself.

   

   Removable elements - grille and reflector

7. Next, we weld two rods (pieces of reinforcement) at the top of the furnace to install the reflector. It will share the firebox with the afterburner and the chimney and is removable. More details in the picture:

   

   The location of the main elements in the furnace

8. The length of the reflector should be 10/11 of the length of the potbelly stove to create a gap for smoke to escape. It is desirable to make it from thicker metal, since it will heat up much stronger than other structural elements.
9. Let's get to the finishing touches. In the lid, we burn a hole of the required size and section for the chimney by welding, it can also be made already on the assembled structure. We weld the lid to the body of the stove. Then you need to cut two jumpers. One is narrow and the other is wide (the exact dimensions depend on the specific dimensions of the oven). The narrow one is welded at the level of the grate to separate the firebox and ash pan doors, and the wide one at the top to the sidewalls and the lid.

   

   Welding separating bridges

10. It is best to make a firebox door for almost the entire width of the stove, both for the convenience of laying firewood, and for easy removal of the mirror and grate. For the ash pan, you can make it narrower. Curtains are made of tubes and rod.

    

    Doors on the finished stove

11. Door handles can be made from both metal plates and tube scraps. Alternatively, you can use the same universal fittings. We fix the finished handles by welding. I think with the manufacture of latches on the doors, there should be no difficulties.

    

    The oven is almost ready

12. Having finished the assembly, it is worth thinking about the supports of the stove. The legs can be made from pipe sections of the desired height. The supports can also be made adjustable in height, for this purpose a nut is welded to the end of the tube (the inner diameter of the nut and tube must match) and a bolt is screwed in.
13. Let's start making a chimney. For its manufacture, a pipe with a diameter of 15–20 cm will fit. We bring the end of the pipe outside the room through a hole in the wall or roof. The angles in the pipe should be 45 degrees, that is, there should be a complete absence of horizontal segments along the entire path. At the bottom of the chimney we make a rotary damper. It can be made from a piece of sheet steel, the diameter of the cut damper should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the pipe. We drill a hole in the pipe for the damper adjustment knob, a steel bar is suitable for this purpose. We weld a sleeve from a pipe segment of 15–20 cm to the hole in the lid, in diameter it should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the chimney pipe in order to facilitate the installation or dismantling of the chimney as much as possible. It remains only to install the potbelly stove and test it.

Photo gallery: stove manufacturing process

Lining

Metal stoves are often lined with bricks inside and out. But there are two reasons why this should not be done:

1. Brick has a rather low thermal conductivity and high heat capacity. The heat obtained from the combustion of fuel in the furnace simply flies out into the chimney along with smoke. not having time to warm up the metal walls of the potbelly stove.
2. The stove surface is deprived of air access, thereby significantly accelerating the burnout of the walls and the risk of carbon monoxide entering the room, dangerous to human health and life.

Selecting and preparing the installation site

For this type of stoves, a monolithic foundation does not need to be built due to their low weight. To select the installation site, one should be guided by such parameters as the distance from doors and windows (for less heat loss) and the convenience of removing the chimney from the room. In garages and utility rooms, as a rule, there is a concrete floor, so nothing needs to be laid. In rooms with a wooden floor, a sheet of asbestos or tin should be laid on the installation site and fixed around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. Foil thermal insulation can be glued to the walls near the installation site to avoid heat loss.

decoration

To decorate a potbelly stove, you can use fireclay plates or decorative metal linings, or you can simply paint the stove with special heat-resistant paints to your taste, after cleaning the surfaces with sandpaper.

Exploitation

Here are some safety tips to keep you and your loved ones safe:

• The stove must be on a refractory base.
• All flammable objects and liquids must be kept at a safe distance of 80–100 cm from the oven.
• You should not completely clog the firebox with firewood at one time.
• Always make sure that the firebox door is closed when using the stove.
• Regularly inspect the chimney for leaky places to avoid smoke entering the room.
• Do not leave the oven running for a long time unattended.
• Do not try to touch the body of the oven while it is in operation to avoid burns.

Cleaning and maintenance

With intensive use of the stove, soot and dirt are deposited in the chimney channel, and gradually accumulating, it narrows the channel clearance, which entails a decrease in traction and overall design efficiency. It is enough to check the chimney once a year for the presence of dirt and, if necessary, clean it from soot. There are several ways to clean the chimney pipe:

• Mechanical, brush or brush.
• Chemical, by burning potato peels in a furnace, while the released starch softens the soot and it comes out.

For best efficiency, you can combine these two methods. Carbon deposits are best removed from the walls of the furnace with a metal brush. The mirror and grate are easily removed for replacement or minor repairs.

Video: how to make a potbelly stove yourself

Making a metal furnace on your own is not such a difficult task as it might initially seem. Of course, this design is not the only option of its kind, but already proven and reliable.