Ventilation installation in a private house. Do-it-yourself natural ventilation in a private house. Do-it-yourself ventilation installation in a private house

Natural ventilation channels

For effective ventilation, Each room of the house must have two ventilation devices: one is for air supply, the other is for removing air from the room.

Every room in a house or apartment equipped with a supply and exhaust natural ventilation device according to one of three options:

1. Supply valve in a window or outside wall for air flow. Transfer hole into an adjacent room with an exhaust duct for air removal (hole in the door or internal wall, partition).
2. For air flow - overflow hole from an adjacent room with an inlet valve, and exhaust duct
3. Inlet valve for inflow, And exhaust duct ventilation to remove air.

Check whether in the house or apartment where you currently live, whether all rooms have supply and exhaust ventilation devices?!

In which rooms should exhaust ventilation ducts be installed?

Exhaust ducts for natural ventilation must be provided from the following areas of the house:

• Sanitary facilities - bathroom, toilet, laundry room.
• Kitchens.
• Dressing room, storage room - if the doors of the premises open into the living room. If the doors open onto a corridor (hall, kitchen), then you can do one of two things: arrange an exhaust duct from the premises or install a supply valve in a wall or window.
• The boiler room must have both a ventilation duct and a supply valve.
• From rooms separated from rooms with a ventilation duct by more than two doors.
• On the floor above the first, if there are entrance doors from the stairs to the floor, ventilation ducts are made from the rooms indicated above, and/or from the corridor, hall.
• On the floor above the first, in the absence of entrance doors from the stairs to the floor, a ventilation duct and a supply valve are installed in each room of the floor.

In other rooms of the house that do not have natural ventilation exhaust ducts, be sure to install a supply valve in a window or wall and a flow hole into the adjacent room.

In addition, natural ventilation exhaust ducts are used for ventilation:

• Sewer pipe riser.

Building rules (clause 6.5.8 SP 60.13330.2016) require that in residential buildings, for premises housing gas equipment (gas boilers, hot water heaters, kitchen stoves, etc.), provide mechanical forced exhaust ventilation and natural or mechanical forced ventilation.

Location and dimensions of ventilation ducts

The minimum side size of the natural ventilation channel is 10 cm., and the minimum cross-sectional area is 0.016 m 2., which approximately corresponds to the diameter of a standard ventilation duct pipe - 150 mm.

A channel of minimal size will provide air exhaust in a volume of 30 m 3 /hour with a vertical pipe length of more than 3 m. To increase the performance of the hood, the cross-sectional area of ​​the channel or the length of the channel is increased. Channels less than 2 long m. do not provide the necessary intensity of natural ventilation.

In practice, the length of the ventilation duct on a floor is usually determined by design considerations - the number and height of the upper floors located above, the height of the attic, the length of the pipe above the roof. On the floor, the length of all channels must be the same. This is done so that the traction force in each channel on the floor is approximately the same.

The cross-sectional dimensions of the channels on the floor are often made the same, but for design reasons - it’s more convenient. The performance of the ventilation channel in a particular room on the floor is adjusted by choosing the size of the ventilation grille.

Ventilation ducts from the premises of the house on different floors are placed side by side, combining them into a block of ventilation ducts.

For design reasons, they try to lay several ventilation ducts from rooms on the same floor side by side, in one place - to create a block of ventilation ducts.

A block of ventilation ducts in stone houses is usually placed inside the load-bearing internal wall of the house or attached to the wall.

The block is laid out from masonry materials, for example, brick. In brickwork, it is convenient to make channels with a cross-section that is a multiple of the size of the brick, taking into account the thickness of the joints - 140x140 mm. (1/2 x 1/2 brick, 196 cm 2) or 140x270 mm. (1/2 x 1 brick, 378 cm 2)

Double-channel expanded clay concrete ventilation block 390x190x188 mm. Flow area of ​​one channel 168 cm 2
Concrete blocks for laying ventilation ducts in a private house. Block height 33 cm., width 25 cm., wall thickness 4 cm. The flow area of ​​one channel is 12x17 cm. (204 cm 2)

They produce hollow concrete blocks specially designed for laying ventilation ducts.

A block of ventilation ducts made of masonry materials must be supported on a foundation or on a reinforced concrete floor.

In other cases, for example, in wooden or frame houses, a block of ventilation ducts is assembled from plastic or galvanized steel pipes. The block of pipes is covered with a box.

How to combine several channels into one channel

In a private house, the number of channels is small, so there is no need to combine air flows from several channels (rooms or floors) into one, as is often done in apartment buildings. Each natural ventilation channel in a private house should begin in the room and end at the head on the roof. Any combination of two or more channels impairs ventilation performance.

In some cases, there is still a need to combine several channels, to combine them into one common natural ventilation channel.

Ventilation channel performance

Performance of a single exhaust ventilation channel with a cross section of 12x17 cm.(204 cm 2) from concrete blocks depending on the channel height and room temperature:

To determine performance for intermediate channel heights, plot the channel height versus performance graph.

Similar tables can be found for ventilation ducts that are made of other materials.

However, for ventilation ducts of the same cross-section (204 cm 2), but made from other materials, the performance will differ slightly from that indicated in the table.

For a channel of a different cross-section, the performance value from the table can be proportionally increased or decreased.

To increase the performance of a ventilation channel of the same height, it is necessary proportionally increase the cross-sectional area of ​​the channel. To do this, for example, choose a concrete block with a larger hole, or use two or three channels of the above size to ventilate one room.

Calculation of natural ventilation of a private house

The building regulations specify the minimum required capacity of natural ventilation ducts. Typically, people feel better when more fresh air is supplied to the room than specified in the standards. The performance of the natural ventilation channel very much depends on atmospheric and other variable factors (air temperature inside and outside, wind pressure and direction, resistance to air flow into the room). All this suggests that for a private house there is no point in carefully performing calculations accurately. I recommend rounding the calculation results towards greater productivity of natural ventilation channels. During operation, if necessary, the channel capacity can be easily reduced.

Calculation of natural ventilation is carried out in order to determine the size of ventilation channels based on the volume of air removed.

When determining the volume of air removed through natural ventilation ducts, it is taken into account that air enters rooms with supply valves from the street, then this air flows into rooms with exhaust ducts, and is removed through the ducts again to the street.

Calculation is being carried out for each floor at home in the following order:

1. Guided by the standards (see), determine the amount of the minimum volume of air that should come from the street for ventilation all rooms with supply valves - Q p, m 3 /hour.
2. According to the standards, the amount of the minimum volume of air that must be go outside for ventilation all premises equipped with an exhaust ventilation duct - Q in, m 3 /hour.
3. Compare the calculated minimum values ​​of air flow from the street (Q p, m 3 /hour) and going outside (Q in, m 3 /hour). Usually one of the quantities turns out to be greater than the other. The larger of the two quantities is taken as the minimum design capacity of all exhaust ventilation channels on the floor— Q r, m 3 /hour.
4. Based on the vertical dimensions of the house, the height of the natural ventilation channel on the floor is determined.
5. Knowing the height of the ventilation channel, and the overall estimated minimum performance of all channels on the floor (Q p, m 3 / hour), According to the table (see above), the total number of standard channels made of concrete blocks is selected. The total performance of the selected number of standard channels must be no less than the value of Q p, m 3 / hour.
6. The selected number of standard ducts are distributed between the rooms of the house, which must be equipped with exhaust ventilation ducts. When distributing, take into account the need to ensure standard air exchange in each individual room with a ventilation duct.

An example of calculating the natural ventilation of a private house

For example, let’s calculate natural ventilation in a one-story house with a total floor area of ​​120 m 2. The house has five living rooms with a total area of ​​90 m 2, kitchen, bathroom and toilet, as well as a dressing room (storage room) with an area of ​​4.5 m 2. Room height - 3 m. The house is designed with natural ventilation of the underground space through a ventilation duct. Height of ventilated space under the floor 0.3 m. We use concrete blocks to install ventilation channels - see above.

Fan at the entrance to the natural ventilation channel

Continuation: for the next one

It is difficult to call a cottage without an effective ventilation system comfortable to live in. The flow of fresh air into it from outside must be constant and sufficient, otherwise the microclimate in the rooms will become unfavorable.

Ventilation in a private house is done according to one of two schemes - with natural or forced draft. Moreover, it is quite possible to install it yourself. But in some cases the project will have to be ordered from professionals.

There are simplified calculations for air exchange devices in low-rise residential buildings, but they are not always suitable. Here you need to be as careful as possible to do everything correctly.

Types of ventilation systems

All variations of ventilation systems are divided into two types:

1. Natural.
2. Forced (controlled, mechanical).

The first assume the absence of any mechanical means of circulating air masses throughout the house. In this case, everything happens thanks to natural draft formed due to the difference in pressure and temperature at different points of the ventilation system. The operation of the latter, on the contrary, is due to the presence in their composition of air fans in the exhaust or supply direction.

What is the difference between natural and forced ventilation?

Natural

To create natural ventilation in a private house, you only need to make vents in its walls and create an exhaust ventilation duct. This option is the simplest and fastest to implement. It is enough to provide openings for air inlet and outlet even at the construction stage of the cottage. And if the building has already been built, then doing them in wall structures is also not too difficult.

Among the advantages of natural ventilation, it is worth highlighting:

• low cost of installation;
• high reliability and complete energy independence of the system;
• no need for complex maintenance;
• quiet operation.

Natural ventilation will not stop working during power outages. There are no mechanisms in it that can break at the wrong moment or make noise during operation.

Natural ventilation using ventilation shafts

Disadvantages of a natural draft ventilation system include:

• lack of filtration and purification of air masses from dust, odors and pollen;
• increased noise in the house due to the presence of additional holes in the walls;
• the difficulty of adjusting ventilation according to the volume of air exchange;
• an increase in heat consumption for heating premises in winter due to the entry of large volumes of cold air from the street;
• dependence of thrust on external atmospheric factors.

This ventilation scheme is recommended to be used when the cottage is located far from highways and in a clean area. That is, where there is no need for additional purification of the supply street air and there is no strong noise. In most other cases, it is worth taking a closer look at the option with a fan.

Natural ventilation in a house with an attic

Forced

In contrast to natural ventilation, forced ventilation in a private house is more effective and is capable of controlling not only temperature but also humidity in the room. However, it costs much more and requires constant power supply. The main element of such a system is a fan in one form or another.

Among the advantages of forced draft ventilation are:

• the ability to accurately adjust power and configure other system characteristics separately for each room;
• the ability to automatically control, in addition to temperature, the humidity and purity of room air;
• autonomous operation of the equipment without the need for constant manual adjustment;
• stability of air exchange throughout the house and in each room separately;
• the presence of an option for heating street air due to recovery or an electric heating element.

The forced option allows you to more accurately control all microclimate parameters in the rooms. However, you will have to pay for this not only with higher costs during the construction phase, but also with costs later during operation.

Forced ventilation in a private house

The disadvantages of forced ventilation at home include:

• the need for power supply and its costs;
• high price of equipment;
• additional financial costs for mandatory maintenance of electrical equipment;
• increased requirements for the quality of calculations and design.

The main nuance of this option is the dependence on electricity. If the power supply is turned off, the fan will stop working and the entire system will be of no use. If the voltage in the network regularly disappears in the village, then when installing ventilation of this type, it is necessary to take care of an uninterruptible power supply in advance.

Ventilation schemes

The scheme for organizing forced ventilation in a private house can be:

• supply air (the fan works to supply air to the rooms);
• exhaust (the fan draws air outside);
• combined supply and exhaust.

In the first two cases, the system consists of a ventilation duct (for exhaust or supply) with a fan and filters, which is supplemented with vents or air ducts for natural air flow. And in the third, ventilation is built from two ventilation ducts, each with its own blower.

Air flows in a private house

Supply

With supply ventilation, air is taken from the street, cleaned and heated or cooled as needed, and only then supplied to the premises. It exits outside the cottage through regular exhaust air ducts and through window sill vents. That is, it is mechanically pumped inside, and it goes outside on its own in a natural way through ventilation holes, doors and windows.

In the simplest scheme, such a system consists of one fan in a utility room and several ventilation ducts from this utility room to each living room. This option allows you to minimize noise from operating equipment and greatly simplifies calculations.

Air exchange in the house in the supply ventilation

If ventilation is installed in a small private house, then the method of its organization described above is the most optimal. It is enough to correctly calculate the required air exchange and fan power.

Installing ventilation afterwards is unlikely to cause any difficulties. Air ducts for it are usually made of flexible corrugated pipes of the appropriate diameter. And ventilation equipment with all filters, ionizers, etc. purchased as a ready-made installation. It will only need to be secured in the chosen location and connected to the ventilation ducts.

Supply valve in a private house

Exhaust

In exhaust ventilation, everything happens the other way around. The flow of fresh air into the house occurs naturally. For this purpose, vents and ventilation shafts with holes in the walls are installed. But the used air masses are forcibly drawn out of the rooms using a mechanical hood with a fan.

The main disadvantage of this option is that cold from the street is drawn into the house during the winter along with fresh air coming from outside. If the cottage is built in an area with a cold climate and low winter temperatures, then this moment will have to be compensated for by a large volume of heat from heaters. And this means additional heating costs.

However, if the flow of cold street air is not allowed through the vents directly in the external walls, but through the underground, then it will warm up a little on the way to the living rooms. And the problem will not be so serious. But when designing, it is extremely important to calculate this issue and provide for everything in advance.

Design features of exhaust ventilation

Supply and exhaust

The combined version consists of two forced subsystems. One is used for air supply, and the second for exhaust. They can be separated, each on its own, and intersecting in the recuperator.

This is the most difficult ventilation to design and install. It requires complex calculations and a large number of air ducts. However, by using it, the owner of the cottage guarantees himself the most comfortable microclimate in his home. This system allows you to automatically control all parameters of room air. It is not for nothing that it is often chosen as one of the elements of a “smart home”.

To reduce the cost of heating air drawn in from the street in winter, supply and exhaust ventilation is usually supplemented with a recuperator. It takes some of the heat from the masses drawn out of the cottage and gives it back to those coming from outside. This greatly reduces heating costs, since almost all the thermal energy remains in the home and does not leave it.

How to equip supply and exhaust ventilation in a private house

Preparation for installation of ventilation in a private house

Proper ventilation is one that is correctly designed at the very beginning. Errors made in the calculations will later be either practically impossible or too expensive to correct. It’s better to do everything according to all the rules from the beginning.

You can use a variety of materials for cladding the base. There are no special building codes here. But the design for a ventilation system or a pile foundation must be calculated in compliance with the mass of SNiPs and GOSTs. Otherwise, the cottage will not stand for a long time or living in it will simply be uncomfortable.

When designing home ventilation, you should consider:

1. The presence of a stove or fireplace in the room.
2. The cubic capacity of each room and the cottage as a whole.
3. Number of residents.
4. The need to integrate air filters into the system and their type.
5. Individual architectural features of the building and much more.

According to standards, in the residential premises of a cottage, the entire volume of air must be changed at least once per hour (the air exchange rate is “1”). For utility rooms, basements and corridors, this coefficient is reduced to “0.2”.

In the kitchen, the air should change at a speed of 60–100 m3/hour, depending on the type of stove. Moreover, if the latter is gas, then replacement should be carried out with a frequency of at least three times per hour according to the volume of the kitchen space. In bathrooms and toilets, the air exchange should be 25–50 m3/hour.

Forced exhaust ventilation in the kitchen

For intra-house sewerage, ventilation is arranged separately by removing the ventilation pipe from a common riser. It is also separately recommended to install a ventilation duct for the hood above the kitchen stove. Moreover, it is impossible to connect the air duct from it and from the bathroom in the same shaft. This can lead to sewer odor escaping into the kitchen.

When preparing the project, it is also necessary to take into account the size of the ventilation ducts and their throughput, the power of the heating system and the dimensions of the fans. There will be a lot of parameters to calculate. And all of them must be accurate and error-free, otherwise the ventilation efficiency will not be as desirable.

For a small one-story house with several rooms, you can make a similar calculation yourself. You need to take the cubic capacity of the rooms and multiply it by the appropriate coefficients, plus add the air exchange volumes for the kitchen and toilet.

However, it is better to order a ventilation project for a large house from specialists in this field with relevant engineering knowledge. Here the cost of an error can be too high.

DIY ventilation

Having a ready-made project in hand, installing ventilation in a private house yourself is not so difficult. Ventilation ducts are assembled from corrugated pipes or individual metal or PVC elements of rectangular cross-section. All this just needs to be put together as a constructor.

To simplify the installation of air ducts, the following are now available:

• channels of different lengths and sections;
• a variety of connectors with and without built-in valves;
• knees with different rotation angles;
• tees and transitions;
• vent grates;
• holders and hangers.

All this must be connected to each other and to a ventilation unit, duct fan or recuperator. There should be a minimum of difficulties.

Ventilation diagram in a private house

Installation is carried out step by step in the following order:

1. The holes in the walls and partitions are marked, where the ventilation ducts will run according to the plan.
2. The centerlines of future air ducts are drawn on the walls and ceiling, indicating turns and branches.
3. The installation location of the ventilation unit is marked (for a forced system).
4. Drilling of walls is carried out, as well as fastening of suspensions and brackets.
5. The channels are cut and connected to each other, the joints are fixed with self-tapping screws and the entire structure is subsequently secured to the holders.
6. Ventilation lines are connected to the equipment.
7. Diffusers and grilles are installed.
8. The ventilation equipment is connected to the electrical network and the system is tested.

To protect air duct outlets from debris and precipitation on the street, caps, nets and deflectors are mounted on them. At the same time, outdoor sections of ventilation ducts, shafts and pipes are subject to insulation. If this is not done, then condensation will form in them, which will inevitably lead to problems.

It is not difficult to make ventilation in your cottage yourself. If you have a project with a specification of the required materials and a plan, then there should not be any special difficulties.

5 / 5 ( 1 vote)

A modern home cannot do without energy-efficient ventilation. Let's find out the diagrams and options for arranging ventilation in a private house with our own hands.

Current trends in construction oblige us to take care of the energy efficiency of buildings. High-quality insulation is almost impossible to achieve without ensuring a high-quality thermal cutoff between the internal microclimate and the external environment, which requires proper organization of the ventilation system.

Energy efficient ventilation

• Existing solution set
• Recovery units

Why is ventilation control so important?

The rapid rise in price of energy resources requires taking measures to reduce the costs of heating and air conditioning of buildings. From the point of view of construction technologies, these problems are solved relatively simply, but a number of problems arise.

The fact is that at the moment no material has been invented that ideally combines load-bearing and thermal insulation properties. Because of this, the enclosing structures of most buildings have a multilayer structure: a load-bearing base is located inside, and a heat-insulating shell is located on the outside.

This arrangement of layers is especially advantageous from the point of view of heating inertia: a more massive layer accumulates quite a lot of heat to smooth out temperature changes during periods between active operation and downtime of the heating system.

However, because of this, the steam leaking through the supporting structure under the influence of the difference in partial pressures inside and outside has a high temperature and can condense inside the insulation. Therefore, a continuous vapor barrier is installed from inside the building, forming a shell impenetrable to atmospheric moisture.

On the one hand, high-quality insulation of the indoor environment from the outdoor environment helps eliminate convection heat transfer. This is extremely important in houses with zero and positive energy balance, where the insulation of the main enclosing structures is performed to the highest standard and the main heat leaks occur through glazing and gas exchange with the street environment.

However, on the other hand, one cannot lose sight of the fact that one person excretes up to 1.5 liters of water every day through the lungs and skin, and to this must be added the moisture evaporated during cooking and wet cleaning, by indoor plants and pets. As relative humidity rises, the temperature at which dew forms also rises, which can cause condensation to form on windows even if there is no frost outside.

The other side of the issue is the suitability of the room atmosphere for breathing. The normal proportion of carbon dioxide in the air is 0.025%, which corresponds to 250–300 PPM (parts per million). A concentration of 1400 PPM is considered to be limiting and dangerous to human health, but raising the CO2 concentration to 500–600 PPM causes significant discomfort: painful sensations appear in the respiratory organs, and it is simply impossible to get a good night’s sleep at night.

Using simple calculations, it can be established that in normal condition, a house with an internal volume of 300 m3 contains only 75 liters of carbon dioxide. That is, even one person will be able to increase concentration to an uncomfortable level within 6–8 hours, and not in a single room, but throughout the entire house!

Existing solution set

Regulation of the room atmosphere is carried out through limited air exchange with the outdoor environment. When installing a ventilation system, you need to look for a compromise between the effective removal of excess moisture with carbon dioxide and saving heated room air. For these purposes, three system options can be used:

Breezers are point ventilation points installed zonally on external walls. These ventilation devices are controlled electronically and can operate in several modes, including heating the supply air.

Natural exhaust ventilation - one or more channels in the central part of the building, most of which are direct acceleration sections without horizontal branches. Due to natural vacuum, draft is created, due to which air is removed through the ventilation duct.

Air enters the house through unsealed connections, for example, gaps in window frames. If the house is carefully sealed, air enters through the window sashes in contour ventilation mode.

Forced supply and exhaust ventilation uses air pumps to move air. The pressure difference they create allows not only to distribute the supply of fresh air over the area of ​​the house through channels, but also to organize its intake from one point. With such a device, the user knows exactly the actual volume of air exchange and has full control over the operation of the system.

From the point of view of convenience and efficiency, forced-type ventilation systems that have an acceleration section are considered optimal, which allows them to operate with limited performance in the absence of power supply.

But for the design and proper functioning of such systems, careful research work must be carried out, during which the air flow organization scheme is determined, as well as the economic justification, because controlled ventilation must first of all meet energy efficiency requirements.

Differences between zonal and general house ventilation

Breezer and duct ventilation are comparable in functionality. Systems of both types allow you to regulate the intensity of air exchange, can operate on daily and weekly schedules, provide filtration, recirculation to ensure forced convection, heating and heat recovery from the exhaust flow.

The most important differences between these types of systems lie in the nuances of installation and ergonomics. Breathers can be installed at any stage of construction and even after finishing work is completed. They have a hidden connection system and a fairly low noise level, comparable to household air conditioners.

At the same time, breathers belong to the category of “smart” household appliances: they can be controlled from mobile devices and integrated into a common house network. This makes it possible to implement their alternating operating mode: half of the breathers provide inflow, half operate in exhaust mode, which eliminates the problem of excessive vacuum and achieves high efficiency.

For all its advantages, breeze ventilation cannot be considered a panacea. The restriction to installation exclusively on external walls almost always leads to the formation of blind spots, especially in large and multi-story buildings. Coordinating the operation of more than 4–5 breathers is quite difficult, and in the absence of an internal sealed environment, it is almost impossible.

The organization of ventilation in large houses is mainly carried out according to a centralized principle: a single unit of air pumps, supply and exhaust ducts, as well as a distribution duct system.

There are few obvious advantages of a centralized system, the most obvious of which is the reduction in the cost of organizing additional air intake or air supply points, while the placement of these points is practically unlimited. Another plus is low maintenance costs and reduced energy consumption, which is especially important in the long term.

However, ventilation ducts are the largest type of intra-house communications. To organize a channel system, a significant raising of the rough ceilings or the use of special technologies for the construction of partitions and ceilings is required. Plus, the calculation of a centralized system is more difficult to perform; errors are fraught with the appearance of drafts and channel noise.

Nevertheless, all these disadvantages are offset by the main highlight of supply and exhaust ventilation - the ability to fully recover heat from the exhaust air.

Recovery units

The essence of recovery is extremely simple: the exhaust and supply flows are passed through channels that have a common partition made of heat-conducting material with the largest possible contact area. At the same time, by equalizing the temperatures between the two flows, the share of heat loss through ventilation is reduced and fresh air is heated to a comfortable temperature. To implement this operating principle, a massive heat exchanger with complexly shaped channels is required, so recuperation in breathers does not work as efficiently.

The use of recovery in the northern regions of Europe has become firmly established in the practice of civil housing construction; there has long been no doubt about the profitability of these installations. Three types of recuperators have been developed for home use:

Heat exchangers are the simplest recuperators, consisting of two chambers with adjacent walls with fins like radiators. They can be easily integrated into small ventilation systems, but are not equipped with air pumps, due to which they remain a fairly budget solution.

In addition to fans and a heat exchanger, the recovery and ventilation unit also has a control unit that allows you to monitor operating parameters and make fairly fine adjustments to operating modes. Equipped with condensate removal systems and air filters, they can be used as a single solution for organizing a central ventilation unit.

Recuperators with a secondary circuit are essentially heat pumps, in which the intensity of heat transfer significantly increases due to the low temperature delta. They allow you not only to equalize the temperature between the two channels, but also to additionally heat the supply air, cooling the exhaust air more than usual. Like devices of the previous type, they represent a single ready-made solution, but are more expensive, although they are guaranteed to pay for themselves in regions with cold climates.

Air exchange calculation and system configuration

Like many other components of individual construction, the organization of ventilation systems in private houses is not subject to strict government regulations.

However, you can rely on air exchange standards for apartment buildings, according to which the minimum supply of fresh air for each resident is at least 60 m3/h with a nominal total air exchange rate in residential premises of 0.35 of their total volume per hour.

Also, SNiP 41–01–2003 establishes the need to increase the intensity of operation of exhaust systems in non-residential premises: kitchens, bathrooms, laundries and storerooms - from 50 to 120 m3/h, depending on the purpose.

This data is often sufficient to determine the performance of the breather ventilation complex. The calculation of the central supply and exhaust system is carried out according to a more complex scheme. For example, it is necessary to ensure sufficient throughput of ventilation ducts and intake grilles to avoid the formation of noise, and also to choose the right anemostats to maintain normal air flow speed in each individual room.

For buildings with more than two above-ground floors, it is also necessary to provide a fire emergency mode, in which the supply of supply air is stopped and smoke is removed from the main escape routes.

The placement of air supply and intake points in a private house follows a fairly simple scheme. For each living room, a supply channel with the required throughput is installed, while the number of inflow points is determined by the permissible dimensions and throughput of the anemostats.

There can be only one air intake point in rooms up to 50 m2; it is placed near the floor in a place diametrically opposite to the inflow. Channel branches for each room are included in a single main line running along the ceiling of the interior corridor and a common technical riser to the room where the central ventilation unit is located and there is a possibility of connecting to external channels.

Only exhaust ducts are installed in technical rooms; this is done in order to prevent the penetration of unpleasant odors into the living area. In general, almost all ventilation systems in private houses have excessive exhaust system capacity - 20–30% higher than the inflow capacity.

When choosing the central unit of the ventilation system, you can start from the total area of ​​the building: manufacturers provide a sufficient power reserve, and the nominal performance is determined automatically based on the readings of humidity sensors, gas analyzers and a daily-weekly timer. You also need to remember that technical ventilation (clothes dryers, kitchen hoods) is organized separately from the general ventilation, although some central units have additional outlets for connecting technical channels.published

Subscribe to our Yandex Zen channel!

If you have any questions on this topic, ask them to the experts and readers of our project.

Not so long ago, when conducting private residential construction, future home owners, if they considered ventilation issues, still relegated them to the background, without giving these problems due attention. To a certain extent, this approach was justified: the very design of the buildings, the material of their construction, the presence of stoves with chimney ducts, the installation of door blocks that were not airtight - all this contributed to the constant circulation of air in the rooms, which was sufficient to maintain a more or less acceptable microclimate.

However, the trend has now changed dramatically. New building and finishing materials have appeared, modern windows and doors are widely used, providing almost complete sealing of openings, requirements for thermal insulation of buildings have increased, that is, during construction they try to block as much as possible any paths of heat leakage. Conventional air infiltration through building structures is clearly insufficient, and therefore, even at the design stage, a system for effective ventilation of premises is immediately provided.

As living conditions change, owners of old houses also have to take certain steps. And one of the most acceptable options, inexpensive and easy to implement on your own, is natural ventilation in a private home. This publication is devoted to this topic.

What functions should home ventilation perform?

Is ventilation really necessary to attach so much importance to it? Such a question can only arise from an amateur. The need for a constant air exchange system cannot be overestimated, both from the point of view of creating and maintaining the most comfortable microclimate for life and safe for the health of people, and from the point of view of ensuring long-term trouble-free operation of the entire building as a whole.

• For normal human life, oxygen is required in the air. During the breathing process, it is gradually replaced by carbon dioxide, and if there is no constant replenishment of fresh air, the atmosphere in a closed room becomes heavy, suffocating, causing rapid fatigue, lethargy, restless sleep, or even more serious reactions in the form of shortness of breath, dizziness, seizures, etc. .p., especially in people suffering from chronic diseases of the respiratory system and blood circulation.

• Air stagnation is a mandatory increase in the concentration of pathogenic microorganisms and allergens contained in it in suspension.
• There is no escape from the fact that human life is constantly accompanied by smells. This is sweat and other completely normal body secretions, the aroma of which is not particularly pleasant, these are perfumes and cosmetics, these are household chemicals and other sources. Let's add here some bad habits, in particular smoking, as well as odors from pets. If constant effective ventilation is not provided, very quickly the atmosphere in living rooms will become unsuitable for normal stay in them.

• Houses with “conveniences” on the street are practically a thing of the past. Comfortable living is associated with an equipped bathroom or at least a shower, a warm toilet or a shared toilet. should be organized in such a way that the air, along with odors and steam from these premises, does not penetrate into the living area, but is immediately removed outside.

The kitchen always requires special attention. This is due to the increased temperature in this room during cooking, and to combustion products if a gas stove is used, and to a lot of odors, pleasant and not very pleasant, with greasy fumes and a large amount of water vapor. All this must be immediately removed outside the house.

• The air exhaled by people and animals always contains a high concentration of water vapor. In addition, a variety of household appliances – washing machines, dishwashers, irons, electric kettles, etc. – contribute to excess humidity in rooms. Here you can add drying of washed clothes, wet cleaning and other reasons. And high humidity, which has no way out due to the lack or insufficient ventilation, means damp walls, which become a favorite “springboard” for the development of various microflora - fungus, mold, moss; frost – windows covered with ice crust. And the durability of waterlogged building structures made of any material is sharply reduced.

• Unfortunately, not everything is going well with many materials that are widely used for finishing, insulation or for making furniture. Many of them are capable of releasing into the home atmosphere substances that are quite harmful to human health - formaldehyde, styrene and other toxic compounds. Ventilation helps to minimize the negative effect of such emissions.

If desired, this list can be continued. However, what has already been listed should be more than enough to understand the importance of well-equipped ventilation and imagine what a comfortable home can turn into in its absence.

When designing any buildings nowadays, special attention is paid to ventilation issues. If, for one reason or another, the owner got a house that is not equipped with such a system, he will have to deal with it immediately. And at first, it will be easiest to organize natural ventilation, since it usually does not require excessive costs and large-scale alterations inside the premises.

The principle of operation of natural ventilation. Its advantages and disadvantages.

Under what conditions is it possible to use natural ventilation?

Ventilation of premises can be organized according to various schemes, but all of them can be divided into two main groups.

1. First a large group, which, in turn, is divided into several varieties - this is forced ventilation, the air flows in which are created due to one or another mechanical effect provided by the operation of special fans. Such ventilation can be supply, exhaust, or created according to a combined scheme. Such schemes are very complex and usually require a professional approach, but they allow you to control the quality of the air entering the premises and carry out the necessary purification.

2. Second– this is the natural ventilation discussed in our article, which does not involve forced supply or extraction of air masses. All movement of flows is carried out exclusively due to natural forces that obey the laws of physics.

- Temperature difference - warm air always has less density and, therefore, mass, in comparison with colder air, and therefore tends upward.

— Pressure drop: due to the height of the vertical ventilation ducts, a certain, although not so significant, pressure drop is created, which facilitates the movement of air.

- Exposure to wind.

• The operation of natural ventilation does not accept the installation of any highly efficient filtering devices (except for gratings or meshes that do not allow, for example, fallen leaves, large debris, insects, etc. to pass through). These devices will make it difficult or even impossible for the normal movement of air flows from the street to the premises, which will lead to the inoperability of the entire system as a whole. Thus, limiting yourself to natural ventilation only makes sense if there is clean air in the construction area.

It is clear that creating natural ventilation in a house located near a busy highway, where the air is oversaturated with exhaust and dust, becomes an unsuccessful solution. For the same reasons, such a scheme is not applied if the development site traditionally has an unpleasant odor from nearby industrial enterprises, livestock farms, wastewater treatment plants, etc. Instead of improving the microclimate, the exact opposite effect will be achieved indoors.

A similar criterion for assessing the admissibility of natural ventilation can include the noise level (for example, a railway line or an airport is located not so far from the site). It should be remembered that such a ventilation scheme always reduces the overall level of sound insulation of the house.

• Comfortable living conditions require an optimal combination of several parameters - air saturation with oxygen, its temperature and relative humidity. Practice shows that natural ventilation will maintain this balance only in the conditions of a so-called inertial house.

This concept implies that the building is constructed from materials capable of accumulating thermal energy - this includes brick, gas silicate, expanded clay concrete, ceramic blocks, cinder blocks, and adobe walls. In this case, the house must have high-quality thermal insulation, made exclusively from the outside. Walls built of wood (logs or beams) or adobe have a certain inertia.

It is in such conditions, when walls are able to accumulate thermal potential and then release it to the flow of incoming air, that properly organized natural ventilation will work to improve the microclimate in the premises. The heated surfaces become a kind of recuperator, that is, they contribute to the rapid and high-quality heating of the incoming air.

Prices for ventilation systems

ventilation system

But in the so-called inertia-free houses the picture is completely different. Constantly penetrating free air flows from the outside lead to unreasonably large heat losses, cool the house, and there is no need to talk about ensuring a normal balance of temperature and humidity. Such buildings include buildings erected using frame technology, from sandwich panels, polystyrene concrete, vacuum blocks and a number of other modern building materials. In such conditions, the only correct solution is to use a well-thought-out forced ventilation system.

• Natural ventilation is more suitable for buildings that are compact in plan, without long enfilades of rooms, outbuildings and extensions. Its creation becomes more complicated with increasing levels - the floors being built (this will be discussed below). It is practically not applicable “in its pure form” or is very ineffective for ventilating a residential attic, due to the characteristics of this room - a different scheme will have to be used here.

So, before you start creating a natural ventilation system, you should evaluate the listed evaluation criteria, and only then make a decision.

The principle of operation of the natural ventilation system of a country house

So, let's now look at what is the fundamental structure of natural ventilation in a private house and how it works.

For the functionality of such a scheme, a set of supply and exhaust channels is required to ensure free, unimpeded movement of air between them.

Fresh air (shown by wide blue arrows) enters the premises through slightly open windows or special intake ventilation valves (item 1). There it is heated due to the action of heating devices, convection and heat transfer from structures accumulating thermal potential, displacing denser, carbon dioxide-saturated “exhaust” air, which moves (wide green arrows) to the rooms in which exhaust vents are installed. For its free movement along the route, either gaps are provided between the floor surface and the door leaf, or through windows in the doors themselves (item 2).

Exhaust vents (item 3) are usually provided in the dirtiest rooms that require maximum air exchange to remove odors, fumes or excess humidity. Here, the air flows of “exhaust” air (wide red arrows), picking up all these negative components, exit into the vents and move up the vertical ventilation ducts, due to the temperature and pressure differences already mentioned above.

These air ducts lead through the attic and roof and end at the heads of the ventilation pipes above the roof surface (item 4). The placement of these pipes on the roof is also subject to certain rules, which will be discussed below.

Thus, for the natural ventilation of the house as a whole to work effectively, each room must be equipped with either an inlet duct (valve) or an outlet vent. A number of rooms require the presence of both a valve and an vent.

Air duct prices

air ducts

When planning the location of supply valves and ventilation vents, follow the following rules:

• A supply valve (or another way of supplying clean air) must be provided in any of the residential premises, be it a bedroom, living room, nursery, office, dining room, etc.
• Ventilation ducts with vents are provided:

- In kitchen areas. It should be remembered that the presence of a kitchen hood above the stove does not eliminate the need to place a ventilation vent.

— In bathrooms, toilets or combined bathrooms, home baths.

— In a dedicated room for home laundry.

- In storage rooms, dryers, dressing rooms, if they open into the living area. If they are separated by a door from the corridor or kitchen, then a supply valve is installed in them.

— In a home workshop, if work in it may be accompanied by the appearance of vapors, smoke, unpleasant odors (welding, soldering, painting, use of chemicals for various purposes - adhesives, mastics, solvents, technical fluids, etc.)

• A number of rooms require the placement of both a supply valve and a ventilation vent:

— Premises in which gas heating equipment is installed.

— A room in the living area, if there are more than two doors between it and the nearest ventilation duct.

— A living space combined with a kitchen, that is, for example, a kitchen-dining room.

— Home sports or gyms.

• A special approach is required for the premises on the second floor. The fact is that warm air from the first floor necessarily rises, and an additional load is placed on the ventilation system. There are two options here:

— If the second floor is separated from the staircase by a constantly closed door, then the approach to placing supply valves and exhaust vents remains almost the same. True, with a caveat - in the case when there are no “dirty” rooms on the second floor (kitchen, bathroom, toilet, etc.), the outlet can be located in the common hall (corridor), where all the rooms open.

— In the case when the second floor is not blocked by doors from the first, in each of the rooms, regardless of its purpose, a fresh air intake channel and a ventilation vent are provided.

In addition, the presence of an inlet window and a ventilation vent is mandatory for basement (basement) rooms and for the space under wooden floors on joists on the first floor. But basement ventilation is a separate topic for more careful consideration, and is “bracketed” in this publication.

Advantages and disadvantages of a natural ventilation system at home

So, what advantages systems can be calculated if a natural ventilation scheme for a country house is selected:

• Such a ventilation system requires minimal financial investment. Most of the work is quite accessible for doing it yourself. True, if the house did not previously have exhaust ventilation ducts, you will have to work hard on this. Supply valves should not cause any particular difficulties in installation.
• The system is reliable, primarily for the reason that its design does not involve complex mechanisms - by and large, there is simply nothing to fail here.

• Natural ventilation does not require complex maintenance. In principle, it comes down only to regular inspection of the condition of the ventilation ducts and, if necessary, cleaning them.
• Such a system is completely energy independent and does not require additional operating costs.
• The absence of mechanisms also means the absence of process noise inherent in other types of forced ventilation.

However, let’s not forget about the rather significant shortcomings natural ventilation:

• In most cases, supply channels do not have high-quality filters (they would interfere with natural circulation), which means that the incoming air carries with it dirt, dust, odors, and pollen. Small insects may enter.
• Supply valves are a “gap” in the overall sound insulation of a house.
• The system is very difficult to quantitatively regulate incoming air volumes.
• Natural ventilation is extremely dependent on the time of year and even on the current weather outside. In winter, when the temperature difference between inside and outside the house is large, ventilation works at full capacity, which often causes excessive energy consumption for heating needs. Reducing the flow of air from outside (for example, by covering the supply valves) immediately results in increased humidity - with all the ensuing consequences.

• In the summer heat, on the contrary, air circulation may slow down or even stop altogether. There is only one way out: to use a through ventilation scheme at this time, opening windows on both sides of the house - the air movement will be carried out due to the difference in pressure on the leeward and windward sides. But at the same time, it is likely that excess moisture and odors will flow from “dirty” rooms into the living area.

There are many ways to optimize the operation of natural circulation in one way or another - we’ll talk about this later.

Video: the principle of natural circulation and its seasonal characteristics

How is the performance of a home's natural ventilation system calculated?

It is not enough to correctly determine the location of the supply valves and exhaust ventilation vents. The ventilation system must have a certain performance to ensure optimal air exchange in all rooms of the house.

These requirements for air exchange volumes are established by current building codes and regulations for all residential and special premises of the building. They start to “dance” when performing calculations. An excerpt from these standards is given in the table below:

In this case, premises with permanent occupancy are understood to be those in which residents stay for more than two hours. It is clear that in an apartment, all living rooms must be included here, with the possible exception of those that are not in use and are closed. In this case, the air exchange rate for these residential premises is 0.2 of the volume per hour.

The general calculation is usually carried out in this sequence.

A. They begin by determining the required volume of air supply to ventilated rooms equipped with supply valves.

If you look at the tables carefully, you will notice that the regulatory documents propose several ways of calculation - from the total area of ​​residential premises, from the volume of rooms (air exchange rate), and sometimes from the number of people constantly present in the room. This means that it is worth trying to carry out calculations in several ways, and then select the maximum from the resulting results.

Let's explain with an example:

• Residential building with an area of ​​70 m², three family members live (more than 20 m² per person). In a bedroom with a total area of ​​16 square meters, two people are expected to stay permanently (more than 2 hours). If we calculate according to sanitary standards (SNiP 41-01-2003 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”), we obtain the required air supply of at least 30 m³/hour for each person, that is, 60 m³/hour.

Thus, from the two obtained values, we select the maximum – 60 m³/hour.

• The same house, but now a children's room, with an area of ​​13 m³, where one person is constantly present. According to sanitary standards - 30 m³/hour, according to the volume of a single air exchange from the room area - 39 m³/hour. That is, the value taken is exactly 39 m³.
• Large living room (20 m²), where all family members gather and spend time together every day. Based on the norm of 30 m³ per person, this is 90 m³/hour. If you count from the area (volume) of the room - 60 m³/hour. The larger value is accepted.
• For a small office with an area of, for example, 11 m², the values ​​will be approximately equal - 30 and 33 m³/hour.
• A similar calculation is carried out for each of the rooms where supply air channels will be provided. Then the maximum values ​​are summed up - the result will show how much air is required to be released into the residential building. Let’s say that in our example, the total volume of required air exchange was 192 m³/hour.

To simplify the calculations of the required air supply, you can use the calculator proposed below, which contains the basic relationships in accordance with the current SNiP.

The dry lines of the scientific definition say that ventilation of a private house is a process of specially organized air exchange (from the Latin ventilatio - ventilation) in the residential and utility rooms of the building, in order to maintain the required sanitary and hygienic parameters of the air environment (air composition, its purity, temperature, humidity ). Ventilation is also called a set of technical means and measures that ensure controlled air circulation in a separate room and throughout the building.

The result of all these words is the same - in order to have fresh air in the house, it is necessary to install additional equipment, and what exactly - we asked the specialists of ATM Climate, a company that occupies one of the leading positions in the climate equipment market, to tell us.

General diagram of air exchange in the house

Proper arrangement of ventilation, both in apartment buildings and in private buildings, is the job of specialists, since here you will need to make a large number of calculations. At the same time, it would not hurt the owners of private houses to learn the basic principles of how ventilation works - this will help them at least in general terms understand what work will need to be done and how much it will cost.

Why is ventilation needed in a private house?

Air quality must fully ensure the comfortable state of the human body. This is unanimously stated by GOSTs and SNiPs, which regulate the microclimate parameters in premises. The most important factors of a comfortable microclimate include the following indicators of the air environment:

cleanliness and degree of freshness of the air;

air temperature and humidity.

To ensure that these indicators always remain within acceptable limits, a ventilation system is installed in a private house, the scheme of which is individually calculated for each individual case.

Before ventilation there are two main goals:

removal of air with a high content of dust and carbon dioxide into the external environment;

an influx of clean, oxygen-rich air from the street.

8 reasons to install ventilation

Ventilation requirements - air flow rates

The basic indicators for designing a ventilation system are the incoming air flow rates and air exchange rates provided for by the relevant SNiPs:

On a note! The frequency of air exchange or ventilation is the ratio of the volume of air entering during one hour to the volume of the room. The multiplicity parameter characterizes the hourly number of air updates.

• The ventilation system must provide air supply in an amount no less than that required for comfortable stay of people in the room. For one person this is 30 m³/hour if the area of ​​the room is more than 20 m² or 3 m³/hour for each square meter if the area allocated for one person is less than 20 m².
• For residential and associated premises with certain functionality, air flow is determined by the following standards:
• 1. A minimum of 3 m³/hour must flow into the living room for each square meter of area.
• 2. To the bathroom and toilet – 25 m³/hour.
• 3. In a combined bathroom - over 50 m³/hour.
• 4. For the kitchen - depending on the type of stove and the number of burners: electric and gas two-burner - 60 m³/hour; gas four-burner – 90 m³/hour.

A hood over a gas stove as one of the ventilation options in the kitchen in a private house

• The air exchange rate of a private house should be within the following limits:
• 1. at least one volume per hour if there are always people in the room;
• 2. at least one volume every 5 hours (0.2 volume/hour) for technical rooms.

Note! The given standards are calculated for indoor air temperature +18 °C and outdoor air temperature +5 °C.

Methods for calculating ventilation parameters

Accurate calculation of ventilation in a private home is performed using specialized software, to work with which you must at least know in what order and what data to use. Therefore, in order to do it once and wisely, you need to start with the development of an individual ventilation project for a private house.

But along with such calculations, there are methods of simple calculations that will make it possible to approximately estimate the necessary parameters.

According to consumption standards. According to SNiP, air consumption by one person (Vnorm) is approximately 60 m³/hour. This means that to calculate ventilation performance, the formula V=Vnorm*N is used, where N is the number of permanent residents of the house.

But the problem with this approach is that residents may be in different rooms or congregate in one. For this reason, this approach is used only for air heating (air climate systems) with air circulation inside the house and with the addition of fresh air in the specified quantities.

According to the frequency of air renewal (calculation by area). SNiP standards require at least one hourly air renewal. If, in this case, for the comfortable well-being of people in the room, one-time air circulation is not enough, use the formula V=K*S*H, where K is the air exchange rate, S is the total area of ​​a private house, H is the height of the ceilings. The multiplicity index varies from 1 to 3.

This approach is the most common, but is associated with a significantly larger volume of air supplied to and removed from the house than in the previous case.

SNiP requirements for air exchange rates in the table:

Natural and forced ventilation

All ventilation systems are divided into two main types:

Natural(convective or natural) ventilation. The circulation of air masses here occurs in the same way as in nature - under the influence of draft, which arises due to the difference in temperature, and therefore air pressure in the room and outside the house;

Artificial(forced) air exchange system, which is carried out by air blowers such as fans or compressors.

Natural ventilation - operating principles and features

The operating principle of natural ventilation is convection - the movement of warm air currents to the upper part of the room and the replacement of departed air masses with cold street air that flows from below. In addition to the temperature difference, the speed of air circulation here is also affected by the wind speed.

Previously, leaks in windows and doors were used to allow air to enter the home. However, modern plastic windows do not have such micro-slits and ventilation valves have to be purposefully installed in the frame or walls. In turn, the “exhaust” air leaves the house through exhaust ducts located in the kitchen, toilet and other rooms.

The principle of operation of convection (natural) ventilation

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer interior redevelopment services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

The following are noted for natural air exchange: advantages:

economical, since no additional equipment is required to move air flows;

energy independence;

trouble-free operation;

noiselessness.

The disadvantages include:

low intensity of air exchange, not always able to fully combat the accumulation of unpleasant odors or the formation of condensation;

poor circulation efficiency due to the dependence of draft on the height of the building and time of year;

almost complete impossibility of regulating the intensity of air exchange (dampers can be used, but they can only reduce draft, which means they do not always help);

in summer there is almost no air movement, since the temperatures inside and outside the house are almost equal;

a large outflow of heat to the street, which significantly increases heating costs;

It is important! In winter, the traction force in the air channels increases, as the temperature difference between inside and outside becomes significant. This leads to an increase in heat loss up to 40% of the total heat loss of the entire house!

When installing sealed double-glazed windows, the natural flow of air practically stops.

the need to additionally install special supply valves in windows or external walls.

Ventilation valves - outside and inside the room

Features of artificial ventilation

The circulation of air masses in the artificial ventilation system is carried out forcibly due to the operation of electromechanical equipment. Fresh air from the street enters the ventilation unit through the air intake, which distributes the air throughout the rooms of the residential building. Exhaust air is forcibly sucked out of the premises and discharged into the street through exhaust air ducts.

Forced circulation ventilation equipment includes the following elements:

• fan;
• air purification filter;
• silencer;
• air heater/heater;
• air valve.

Even in modern systems, a recuperator can be added to the listed equipment - a device that, by removing heat from the air exhausted to the outside, heats the incoming air.

When installing a ventilation network you will need:

• air vents;
• air intake grilles, diffusers, anemostats.

Advantages of artificial ventilation:

• autonomous operation, independent of environmental conditions (temperature and pressure, building height);
• the ability to bring the parameters of the air supplied to the house to the required values ​​to create a comfortable microclimate (dust removal, heating/cooling, humidification/dehumidification).

Disadvantages of forced ventilation:

• energy dependence of technical means and significant energy costs for heating a large volume of supply air, which provides the necessary air exchange rate, especially in winter;
• significant costs for purchasing equipment;
• the need for regular maintenance.

Mixed ventilation type

If there is no need to install forced ventilation in all rooms of the house, then you can consider the option of mixed ventilation. This is what is commonly called the combined use of natural circulation with the installation of mechanical hoods and fans. Typically, forced ventilation is used in the kitchen or bathrooms, and air exchange in other rooms occurs naturally.

Mixed ventilation system

Ventilation operating diagrams

In the practice of arranging ventilation devices, depending on the functions performed, four types of ventilation:

Forced ventilation in a private house - supplies air from the street to the room. When double-glazed windows are installed in the house, the “micro-ventilation” mode or special valves are used.

But the intensity of air supply depends on weather conditions and is not always able to provide a comfortable microclimate. For artificial ventilation, additional ventilation ducts and devices are installed that purify the street air and heat it to room temperature using an electric or water heater.

What does supply ventilation look like schematically in a private house?

Exhaust ventilation in a private house - removes “exhaust” air from the house to the street. If a high intensity of air exchange is not needed, then use natural ventilation through ready-made ventilation ducts.

But due to the obvious shortcomings of natural ventilation, forced hoods with exhaust fans are more often installed. They are installed both in ventilation ducts and in the ceiling space.

Operating principle of supply and exhaust ventilation

Supply and exhaust ventilation in the house - in this case, two parallel multidirectional air flows are organized. The first is the supply of oxygen-saturated air into the room, and the second is the removal of “exhaust” air outside.

Air climate system(air heating) in the house - in this case, internal air circulation is arranged inside the house with supply air mixed into it and exhaust air removed from bathrooms and technical rooms.

The advantage of such a system is that significantly less fresh air is needed for the supply (60 m³/h per resident) and, accordingly, less air is removed through the hood together, which means less heat leaves the house in winter.

In addition, it is easy to organize heating or cooling of the air circulating in the house, cleaning and humidifying it, i.e. You can do without a traditional hydronic split heating and air conditioning system. For this reason, such a comprehensive solution is often used in smart homes.

Recuperator

When arranging supply and exhaust ventilation in private homes, significant savings come from the use of systems with heated supply air, called “supply and exhaust ventilation with recovery.”

Recuperators are called air handling units equipped with an internal heat exchanger. Passing through the recuperator, air flows heated in the room and discharged outside heat the heat exchanger. Cold air from the street passes through the same heat exchanger and, accordingly, heats up before entering the room.

Scheme of operation of ventilation with recovery

It is important! Including a recuperator in the supply and exhaust system allows you to save up to 70-90% of the heat of the exhausted room air.

Phases of operation of the recuperator in the supply and exhaust ventilation mode in the house

Features of ventilation of premises of a private house

Any of the premises of a private house, residential and technical, need high-quality air exchange that corresponds to the functional purpose of the room. When arranging the ventilation system of a house, it is necessary to take these features into account.

Ventilation of the underground space

The underground floors of private buildings are characterized by the presence of damp, unventilated areas, which, in conditions of high levels of dampness, lack of sunlight and musty air, are a favorite place for the spread of various fungi. Rapidly growing colonies of microorganisms have a destructive effect on wood, concrete and metal structures.

To ventilate the subfloor of a private wooden house, ventilated openings are arranged in the basement along the entire perimeter of the foundation, creating natural circulation of air masses under the floor. The dimensions of basement ventilation openings for rectangular openings must be at least 100 mm, and for round ones - from 120 mm. The height of the holes is within 300 mm from the ground surface.

Example of underground (cellar) ventilation

If natural ventilation cannot cope with dampness and mustiness, mechanical means of forced circulation are brought to its aid - fan units located on opposite sides. The operating mode of the fans is determined in accordance with the task. They can work for half an hour several times a day or be turned on for a longer period.

Ventilation of upper floors

When using natural ventilation in two or three-story private houses, the biggest problem is the flights of stairs, which can be considered as large ventilation ducts. The already “exhausted” air from the first floor rises up the stairs, which means that in the building there will be a difference in temperature and humidity levels between the lower and upper floors.

Designers and builders solve this problem by blocking the access of air from the stairs to the floors, or by isolating each room separately. But the second option is practically not used due to its complexity, because in fact, here you will have to make separate ventilation in each room separately.

Video description

For a clear overview of ventilation in a private home, watch the video:

Typically, doors from stairwells to floors must be closed for natural ventilation to function properly.

In the attic it is always necessary to install forced ventilation, since the standard natural draft is not provided due to the low height of the ventilation ducts.

Kitchen ventilation

To ventilate the kitchen, builders of a private house must provide a separate ventilation duct into which the exhaust air flow will be sucked.

The channel is mounted from galvanized steel sheets or other stainless materials. The surface of the channel should be smooth so that greasy fumes from the kitchen and soot from the stove do not settle on it. The inlet and outlet openings of the channel are protected by grilles.

As in the whole house, air circulation in the kitchen is carried out by natural and forced methods. Those. vents and windows are opened, or a hood is purchased. The latter option is clearly preferable, since the inability of natural ventilation to cope with the odors that appear during cooking is beyond doubt.

Video description

An example of combining natural ventilation with a hood in the kitchen in the video:

Since a kitchen stove is a constant source of fairly strong odors, the area above the stove needs ventilation most of all, and it is above it that a natural ventilation outlet channel or an electromechanical hood is placed.

When installing ventilation in the gas stove area, first of all, it is necessary to compare the number of burners with the volume of kitchen air space. The standards require:

for a kitchen space with a volume of more than 8 m³, it is allowed to install a stove with two burners;

for a kitchen with a volume of 12 cubic meters - no more than three burners;

for a kitchen of 15 cubic meters - 4 burners.

If this standard is observed, for high-quality air exchange in the kitchen with a gas stove, an air exchange rate of 140 m³/hour is sufficient, and with an electric stove – 110 m³/hour.

Bath ventilation

The air in the bathhouse has its own specific specifics - during bathing procedures the humidity reaches 100%, and when the bathhouse is not in use, everything depends on the quality of air exchange in the room. To comprehensively solve these issues, mixed ventilation is used.

An example of air movement in a bathhouse

But since the mechanical part is needed only during the operation of the bathhouse, then, in fact, the most effective natural ventilation is made and fans are added to it. Thus, during operation, the power of the ventilated installation allows you to comfortably steam in the bathhouse, and during its downtime, natural ventilation ventilates the room.

Technically, this is expressed in the arrangement of one or two supply channels and an outlet on which a fan is installed (preferably with an adjustable number of blade revolutions).

It is important! When arranging a bathhouse, one should not forget about floor ventilation. To do this, the floor covering is assembled from boards with a gap of 5 mm between them.

Often, owners of private houses are lenient when it comes to ventilation requirements for their own home, especially if they may entail additional costs. Here are some misconceptions regarding the use of technical means in residential premises.

Installing an air conditioner will solve all ventilation problems.

The air conditioner is able to change air parameters, cool or heat the air, and dry it. But it does not create an air cycle. In a house with a working air conditioner, a comfortable temperature will be established, but after a couple of hours the body will feel a lack of oxygen and an excess of carbon dioxide.

Ventilation is always installed together with air conditioners.

If you install an exhaust fan, this will be enough for good ventilation of the house..

If plastic sealed double-glazed windows and doors are installed, there is no air flow, which means there will be no exhaust/removal of air masses. After a few minutes of operation of the hood, a pressure will be established in the room that simply will not push air to the fan blades.

Periodic ventilation or an open window for micro-ventilation will solve all problems.

The issue of ventilation will not be fully resolved, since there remain fairly large periods of time during which it will not be possible to ventilate the house, for example, at night. If in the summer this is a solvable issue, then micro-ventilation in the winter is fraught with drafts that will quickly cool the room, preventing it from being ventilated.

Video description

A few more arguments in favor of installing a high-quality ventilation system in a private home are on video:

Conclusion

Despite the availability of information, the average consumer still has a strong prejudice that home ventilation equipment consists of huge air ducts hidden behind suspended ceilings, whirring fans and, in general, it will be very expensive.

To change this opinion, it is enough to see (and hear) the operation of a properly organized ventilation system once. The truth here is that the problem is that you won’t hear or feel anything, because the absence of extraneous odors and sounds is a sign of high-quality operation of the equipment.