Microsoft Word metal tile installation manual. Step-by-step instructions for the installation of metal tiles using a special technology from a to z. Rafter system and hydro - thermal insulation

ATTENTION! Before starting work, make sure that the waterproofing is installed in accordance with the rules for waterproofing.

Pay special attention to the eaves of the roof.

The figures show examples of the organization of condensate removal from the waterproofing film on the cornice overhang.

The first figure shows how the waterproofing film is brought to a special condensate drip. In this case, all moisture will be guaranteed to be removed beyond the dimensions of the eaves "box".

The second figure shows how the waterproofing is brought into the eaves "box". In this case, condensate may drip from the slots in the eaves eaves. This case is not applicable with increased requirements for the appearance of the cornice filing or with "stucco cornice".

There is no correct way to exit to the gutter.

With a rafter pitch of 600–900 mm, use a 100x25 mm edged board for the crate. Start with the installation of the eaves board, the cornice line should be straight (check on the "lace") and strictly horizontal.

ATTENTION! If you made a mistake with the installation of the cornice board, most likely, you will need to redo the ENTIRE step crate.

As a cornice board, use a board thickened by 10–15 mm. You can also use a regular board, increasing its thickness with a compensating rail, no more than the height of the metal tile step. For the majority of profiles of a metal tile of manufacture Grand Line® the lath 50х20 will be suitable. Mount the first board of the step batten with a step of 250 mm from the cornice board, the rest - with a step of 350 mm, checking the step from the first board of the step batten every 5 rows.

Mount the long hooks of the drainage system on the cornice board, providing slopes in accordance with the project. For reliable fastening of the legs of long hooks, the cornice board must have a width of at least 200 mm (diagram 1). The compensating rail is mounted between the hooks. On a thickened cornice board, before installing the hooks, grooves are cut out for the leg of the hook. In the case when the metal tile is already mounted, short hooks are used, which are mounted on the frontal board. To prevent the avalanche of snow from the roof from tearing off the gutter, mount the first hook on the frontal board so that the outer edge of the hook is 20 mm lower than the imaginary extension line of the cornice board (diagram 2).

ATTENTION! For the correct installation of the short hooks of the Grand Line 125/90 and 150/100 gutter systems, the front board must be cut vertically.

ATTENTION! If the front board is finished with a plastic chamfer, cutouts for the hooks must be made before mounting the hooks in the chamfer.

Mount the cornice strip on the cornice board over the hooks of the drainage system with an overlap of at least 20 mm on each other, connecting them to each other along the flanging lines or simply overlapping.

When installing a metal tile, you can move both from left to right and from right to left. When mounting from left to right, the next sheet must be slipped under the one previously fixed on the slope. When mounting from right to left, the next sheet must be superimposed on the previously fixed on the slope. In both cases, to ensure high-quality joining along the waves, first fasten the sheets together with self-tapping screws “roughly” in one or two rows to ensure optimal joining of the sheets with each other, then twist the rest and only after that fix the mounted sheet on the slope.

When joining the sheets of metal tiles in rows on the slope, there will be places where the "four corners" of the sheets of metal tiles are joined together.

The most correct way of positioning the sheets is such that above the two "sheet corners" with capillary grooves there will be two "sheet corners" with a "covering edge". To do this, first join a couple of sheets in rows, and then join a couple of the following sheets to the side of them.

Another installation method is also allowed: first mount the bottom sheets joined along the waves, and then mount the top sheets. In this case, there will be a slight thickening of the junction points of the “four corners”.

The reason for this thickening is clear from the figure. To eliminate such a thickening, it is necessary to slightly “straighten” the capillary groove on one of the bottom sheets below the stamping line or cut off a small fragment of the corner, which slightly complicates installation.

When developing the profile of the metal tile, it was not foreseen the possibility of mounting the sheets of the metal tile "split" with spacing relative to each other of the joints in waves and joints in rows. A large number of joints, indicated in the figure by the number 2, can lead to an “overrun” of shifting of the stamping lines relative to each other and a violation of the “rectangularity” of the slope typed from sheets of metal tiles. In isolated cases, for example, when approaching the edge of a slope or when avoiding obstacles, such a joint of sheets, indicated in the figures by the number 1, is acceptable.

The illustrations at the bottom of the page show how to drain water from the roof window apron onto the slope. In the left picture, you can see that water from the apron of the roof window flows onto a specially cut bottom sheet. The right figure shows the next step: the roof window apron is covered with a side sheet specially cut to the width, the lower part of which covers the roof window apron and reaches the regular joint of the metal tile sheets in rows. The bottom and side sheets are cut from a single sheet of metal tile, and due to the "overlapping" of the sheet parts on top of each other at the apron exit point, the total length has decreased by one module. If, when laying out the sheets of metal tiles, the sheet from which the bottom and side sheets were cut was not “extended” by one module, it can be extended with a single-module sheet.

A typical mistake is to "embed" the apron of the roof window into a side cut on a sheet of metal, in which a hole will remain on the edge of the cut on the surface of the slope. Small but a hole.

ATTENTION! If it is necessary to “embed” a roof window, a pipe (located significantly below the ridge) or a dormer window into the slope, prepare two single-module sheets of metal tiles for each element built into the roof.

With any methods of joining sheets of metal tiles with each other, these sheets will be assembled into a rectangle, which will have equal sides, upper and lower edges, as well as diagonals. The exact correspondence of these dimensions to each other is determined mainly by the quality of the profiling. It is impossible to “stretch” in width, to “lengthen”, to turn a “rectangle” assembled from sheets of metal tiles into a “trapezoid” or “rhombus”. Attempts to "stretch" or "compress" the laying of sheets due to the joint will inevitably lead to visual "protrusion" of the joint lines.

From the correct positioning on the slope of the first sheet depends on how accurately the "rectangle", assembled from sheets of metal tiles, will fall on the slope. Rotate, move, stretch the "rectangle" will not work. When mounting the first sheet, you set the cornice line, both gable lines and the ridge line. The main line is the cornice line. It is clearly visible and not covered by any slats!

Starting the installation of metal tiles, "aim" at the cornice line. When installing the first 3-4 sheets of the bottom row, carefully fasten the sheets to each other and fasten them to the crate minimally.

If during the check a deviation from the eaves line is found, correct the position of the sheets, fix them and continue mounting the slope.

Carry out the final fastening of metal tile sheets in accordance with the previously given Rules.

Before installing the end strips, mount the support boards along the lines of the gables, as shown in the figure. Fasten the end plank to the slope at the points of contact with the tops of the waves in every second wave and from the end to the support board in accordance with the previously made markings. Connect the end strips to each other along the flanging lines or overlay with an overlap of at least 2 cm.

If the width of the slope was not “customized” to the size of the wave of the metal tile, the sheet may approach one of the gables with the lower part of the wave. At the same time, the standard gable bar will not cover the comb. Adjust, if possible, the size of the gable overhang or mount an additional safety roofing strip made specifically for this place. Mount, if necessary, a universal seal between the safety roof strip and the metal tile sheet.

ATTENTION! Make sure that all planned under-roof ventilation measures are implemented.

To prevent snow from blowing under the ridge, mount the ridge/backbone air element between the metal tile and the ridge plank.

For this purpose, a universal or profile seal can be used, which is installed between the metal tile and the ridge bar. In this case, to ensure under-roof ventilation, it is recommended to install point ridge or pitch valves KTV.

A semicircular ridge is recommended for roof slopes of no more than 35°. There is no provision for adjusting the semi-circular ridge for mounting at steeper angles. To design the beginning and end of the ridge, use a flat plug, for the end of the ridge - a cone. Fasten the plugs with self-tapping screws or rivets before mounting the ridge batten.

At the junction of two ridges and the ridge, at the top of the hip, use a Y-tee - shaped for a semicircular ridge. It can be used for roofs with angles α in the range of 60-90°, β - 135-150°. Cover the joint of the ridge battens with a waterproofing film and self-adhesive tape. Mount the Tee over the skates and fix it with self-tapping screws.

Start installation from one of the ends, mount the ridge over the end strips, let the edge of the ridge out by 2-3 cm. The parts of the flat ridge should be joined with each other overlapping at least 10 cm or using tin technology. Dock the details of the semicircular ridge with each other along the stamping lines.

For a flat ridge, adjust the angle to the angle of the roof by bending or unbending it along the lines indicated in the figures. Mounting shelves of skates in the "free" state must correspond to the angles of inclination of the slopes.

At angles of inclination of the roof more than 45 degrees, the location of the ridge board and the method of fastening the ridge significantly depend on the specific value of the angle of inclination of the roof. At the stage of mounting the battens, model the ridge assembly for your case of combining the angle of the roof and the model of the ridge plank. This is the only reliable way to get a good result or to detect an error in time when ordering a metal tile.

In most cases, you will need to mount an additional ridge board above the top board of the step batten, while ensuring a gap between the ridge boards of adjacent slopes of at least 80 mm to ensure under-roof ventilation. The thickness of this board should be 10-15 mm more than the thickness of the boards of the step crate. (See Fastening Rule #4).

Rules for the installation of metal tiles on trapezoidal and triangular slopes

ATTENTION! Make sure that the waterproofing is working and that it is possible to implement the planned measures to ensure ventilation of the under-roof space.

In addition to the bars of the counter-batten along the rafters, attach the same bars along the ridges in the plane of the slopes on both sides of the ridges.

Mount the cornice board and stepping boards. Form the cornice assembly, including installation of the gutter hooks, condensate drip and cornice strip.

Prepare for installation sheets of metal tiles intended for each slope in accordance with the "layout" of the sheets. As with the installation of a rectangular slope, first of all it is necessary to align the bottom sheets along the eaves line (the figure shows an example of starting the installation from the left edge).

Cut sheets of metal tiles along oblique lines along the ridges so that the distance between the cut sheets on adjacent slopes is 60–80 mm. Mount from the bottom up, placing the joints in rows in a common line in accordance with the layout.

Mount the ridge strips on the ridges from the bottom up. Fit the ridge battens to the angle formed by the slopes. Cut the lower part of the straight ridge according to the angles given by the ridge line. At the bottom of the semicircular ridge, mount a plastic or steel cap of the ridge, having previously fitted it in place.

Make sure that the axis of the ridge bar strictly corresponds to the axis of the ridge. The axis of the ridge is easy to determine for the case of the same angle of inclination of neighboring slopes. At different angles of inclination of neighboring slopes, it is more difficult to determine the axis of the ridge. Be sure to determine the axis of the ridge and fasten the ridge bars in strict accordance with the axis.

Only in this case you will be able to beautifully join the ridges and the ridge in the upper part. In most cases, the junction of two ridges and a ridge you will beautifully make using a plastic Y-tee. In cases where the Y-tee is not suitable for such a joint, use colored self-adhesive tapes, usually used for junctions when working with cement-sand or ceramic tiles. With good tinsmithing skills, you will make beautiful joints of ridges and skates from a flat sheet using self-tapping screws, rivets and sealant.

Rules for the device of valleys

ATTENTION! Make sure that the waterproofing along the valley is installed correctly, there are gaps for water and small debris along the valley counter-lattice, there are no tears and mechanical damage to the waterproofing.

Mount in the valley by an additional board between the boards of the step crate. Prepare the required number of valley planks and mount them from the bottom up with an overlap of 200–300 mm. Cut the lower plank of the valley just below the eaves line and make a flanging on it along the cornice line. Install a universal seal along the flanges of the valley strips and under the ridge.

Cut the sheets of metal tiles bordering the valley according to the markup. Sheets should not reach the center line of the valley 60–100 mm on each side. When fastening the cut sheets, it is allowed to screw the self-tapping screws into “regular places” located 10-15 mm below the stamping line in the lower part of the wave, through the metal tile sheet and through the valley plank no closer than 250 mm from the valley axis. In these places, the sheets of metal tiles touch the plane on which the valley planks lie. At the same time, the self-tapping screws that have passed through the metal tile sheet and through the valley plank will firmly press the metal tile sheet to the valley plank at the attachment points with self-tapping screws. When indented from the "regular places" at the attachment points between the sheet of metal and the valley strip, there will be a gap, which can lead to leaks through the valley strip at the points where self-tapping screws pass through it.

If the project provides for the installation of a decorative lining of the valley, mount it, moving from the bottom up with its parts overlapping each other by at least 10 cm.

Fix with self-tapping screws 5.5x19 the planks of the upper valley to the upper points of the sheets of metal tiles adjacent to it.

ATTENTION! If the house is located in the forest, dismantle the valley lining from time to time and clean the water channel.

Device of a valley starting on a slope and ending on a slope

ATTENTION! Westmet specialists recommend to make sure that the waterproofing along the valley is installed correctly, there are gaps for water and small debris along the valley counter-lattice, there are no tears and mechanical damage to the waterproofing.

Mount in the valley by an additional board between the boards of the step crate. Place the metal tile sheet against the side wall of the dormer window as follows:

• cut the sheet of metal tile adjacent to the side wall of the dormer window along the length so that the line of your cut is at least 200 mm higher than the exit of the valley to the slope (the remaining part of the sheet of metal can be used to continue installation with the addition of a single-module sheet to it in order to exit to a common line of joining sheets in rows);
• to bring the sheet to the side and front walls of the dormer window, make cutouts according to the size of the dormer window and mount the metal tile sheet;

On a sheet of metal along the walls of the dormer window, mount a universal seal.

Install the cornice strip on the eaves of the dormer window. Mount the pre-prepared valley strips in the valley. Cut the bottom of the valley plank along the eaves and along the exit line to the slope. If necessary, shape the edge of the valley, facing the slope, in order to ensure a tight overlap of the valley plank on the metal tile sheet. It is allowed to slightly level the bottom sheet of the metal tile with a mallet.

When extending the valley, provide an overlap of 200-300 mm, depending on the angle of inclination of the slopes. In the upper part, join the sheets of the left and right valleys using tinsmith techniques or on self-tapping screws using sealant. The protection of the dormer window ridge line from water ingress from the upper slope depends on the thoroughness of the preparatory work in this place. Mount the universal seal along the flanges of the valley.

Get ready for the installation of sheets of metal with oblique cuts on a large slope.

If you use the part remaining from the side sheet of the metal tile, bring the lower cut on it to the form of a regular one and add a single-module sheet to it in order to bring the top level of the sheet to the common joining line along the rows on the slope.

Prepare for installation the first sheet of the main slope above the valley. Its lower part must necessarily be below the exit line of the valley to the slope. Lay the prepared sheet on the metal tile sheet previously mounted below the valley, with the sheets overlapping at least 200 mm, and the valley sheet will be sandwiched between the mounted and previously mounted sheets. Mount all sheets bordering the valley.

Make sure that the gaps between the cut sheets and the center line of the valley are 60–100 mm.

When fastening the cut sheets, it is allowed to screw the self-tapping screws into “regular places” located 10–15 mm below the stamping line in the lower part of the wave through the metal tile sheet and through the valley plank no closer than 250 mm from the valley axis. In these places, the sheets of metal tiles touch the plane on which the valley planks lie. At the same time, the self-tapping screws that have passed through the metal tile sheet and through the valley plank will firmly press the metal tile sheet to the valley plank at the attachment points with self-tapping screws.

When indented from the "regular places" at the attachment points between the sheet of metal and the valley strip, there will be a gap, which can lead to leaks through the valley strip at the points where self-tapping screws pass through it.

ATTENTION! It is not allowed to tighten self-tapping screws at a distance of less than 250 mm from the axis of the valley.

If the project provides for the installation of a decorative lining of the valley, mount it, moving from the bottom up with an overlap of at least 10 cm.

ATTENTION! It is forbidden to mount a sealant between the sheets of metal tiles and the decorative overlay of the valley.

Fix the decorative overlays of the valley to the upper points of the sheets of metal tiles adjacent to it.

ATTENTION! Make sure that the screws securing the valley lining have not damaged the previously installed valley strips.

The overlay of the valley decorates oblique cuts of the metal tile and reduces the likelihood of snow blowing between the sheets of the metal tile and the valley. The water collected from the slopes falls under the valley lining and flows along the valley fold line. Last year's leaves that have fallen on the roof also fall under the valley lining and, with a sufficient gap between the cut edges of the metal tile, will be washed away with water along the valley planks.

Rules for avoiding pipes and other obstacles

When bypassing pipes and other obstacles on the roof, you have to solve two problems:

• the first task is to “intercept” the water from the slope above the pipe, “disperse” it to the right and left, “draw” it along the pipe and “release” it onto the slope under the pipe;
• the second task is not to let water into the house and bring it to the roof, descending along the walls of the pipe.

To solve these problems around the pipe, you need:

• prepare and mount a metal apron, part of which is located in the plane of the roof and fixed on it, and part rises along the pipe 150-200 mm above the roof cavity;
• on top of the apron, mount the junction bar in a strobe or overlay.

ATTENTION! Make sure the pipe is plastered to the desired height. After installing the apron, the part of the pipe under the apron will become inaccessible. Make sure that the waterproofing is led to the side edges of the pipe, and on the slope above the back edge of the pipe, a drainage groove is built into the waterproofing (no further than 0.8 m from the rear edge of the pipe).

Mount additional lathing boards over the rear edge of the pipe at a slope length of approximately 50 cm. Cut the left and right sheets of metal tiles adjacent to the pipe along the length so that your cut lines are above the stamping lines, and the distance from the top edge of the pipe to these stamping lines is not less than 150 mm. The remaining parts of the metal tile sheets can be used to continue the installation with the addition of a single-module sheet to them in order to reach the common line of sheet joining in rows.

Mark lines on the side faces of the pipe 150 mm above the plane of the top of the roofing, transfer these lines to the front and rear faces of the pipe, and you will find out the required height of the lower and upper aprons.

Prepare the bottom and side (right and left) parts of the apron. Correctly made details:

• rise to the side face of the pipe by 150 mm;
• enter the slope by at least 200 mm;
• the lateral parts of the right and left parts of the apron go beyond the nearest wave crest of the metal tile;
• the lower part of the side parts of the apron reach the bottom of the lower part of the apron;
• with the upper part, the side parts of the apron go 150–200 mm higher than the back face of the pipe.

Connect the 3 parts of the apron to each other and fix the lower apron to the metal tile with screws.

Align the sheets of metal tiles with a mallet in those places where they will be covered by the upper part of the apron. Prepare the top piece of the apron. Properly made apron:

• enters the lower edge of the pipe to the marking line;
• on the sides covers the side parts of the apron;
• at the top of the slope ends with a flanging upwards.

Connect the top apron with the side apron using tin technology. If necessary, cover the joints of the apron parts with sealant. Mount the universal seal in the upper part of the apron.

The top sheets of metal tiles must have a horizontal regular cut in the lower part, and in the upper part - reach the common line of joining along the rows on the slope or to the common line of the ridge.

If you use the parts remaining from the side sheets, bring the lower cuts on them to the form of regular lower cuts and add a single-module sheet to them in order to bring the top level of the sheets to the common joining line along the rows on the slope.

Lay these sheets over the splashback, with the top of the splashback sandwiched between the installed and previously installed sheets.

ATTENTION! A typical mistake is to install the top part of the apron into the cut of the metal tile, as shown in the lower figure, since the cut is located on the water drain line.

To prevent the ingress of water from the side faces of the pipe under the apron, rigidly fasten the junction bar around the perimeter of the pipe over the apron, close the gap between the junction bar and the side faces of the pipe with sealant, laying it in a specially cut groove or in the outer flanging of the bar.

Before mounting this abutment strip, use a mallet to work the upper parts of the flanges to the side faces of the pipe. In some cases, the junction bar can be subsequently covered with plaster.

To seal the joints, use special roofing sealants as shown in the figure.

Making an apron in this case is easier than in the previous one, because it is possible to get the upper part of the apron under the ridge over the sheets of metal instead of embedding this part into the slope between the sheets of metal. Sometimes this technique is also used to bypass pipes located 3–5 meters from the ridge, a flat sheet goes above the pipe directly under the ridge. Reliable, but ugly, since the strip of flat non-profiled sheet above the pipe falls out of the overall picture of the slope.

This is the simplest case, and the width of the pipe does not matter.

Pay special attention to connecting the side aprons of different slopes to each other and sealing the junction of the skates to the pipe.

Bypassing a pipe or other obstacle located on a slope, the width of the obstacle exceeds 80 cm

This case is more difficult than the previous ones. You will need the skills gained from avoiding pipes less than 80 cm wide, and the skills gained from making slope access valleys.

On top of the slope, make a "decline", guaranteed to take the water to the right and left of the pipe. "Razuklonka" consists of two additional slopes covered with metal tiles, with valleys with access to the slope. If the pipe is not wide, for example, 1.2 m, it makes no sense to cover the slopes of the "decline" with metal tiles, a flat sheet is enough.

In the previous sections, only rectangular pipes were considered.

When bypassing a round pipe, the principles of embedding an apron in the roof remain the same as described above. To connect the parts of the apron to the pipe, professional tinsmith skills are required. Modern insulated round pipes made of stainless steel, as a rule, are equipped with a special transitional apron-cap.

Sometimes, due to a misunderstanding, the pipe falls into the valley, onto the flow of water collected from two slopes.

A roofer with good tinkering skills will find a way to reliably carry water even past a pipe in a valley. It is better for novice roofers not to experiment and invite an experienced tinsmith to this area of ​​work, for example, a seam roofing specialist, or to achieve the transfer of a pipe from a valley.

• Rules for handling metal tiles, cutting and fastening
• Rules for the installation of metal tiles
• Rules for junctions and additional elements

1. Rules for the installation of metal tiles

How to lay a metal tile? This question is asked by almost all developers who have chosen this modern, practical and durable material for their home. We will try to tell in the most detailed way what technology of metal tile installation is recommended by its manufacturers and which metal tile installation scheme is most preferable.

The main advantages of metal tile modules are good strength and high fire-fighting properties.

In addition, you will learn how the roofing "pie" works, what materials and tools will be needed to build the roof, and much more. We hope that our instructions for laying metal tiles will be useful to both developers and builders, regardless of whether you are building a house or making a canopy from metal tiles.

Metal tile: installation technology

A design made according to this scheme, with the proper selection of materials, will provide you with a reliable and durable roof.

Briefly about the roofing "pie". Before starting the installation of a metal tile (you can download the video or watch it a little lower), let's recall some concepts and a diagram of a roofing "pie". It got its name because of the large number of layers that perform various functions. It is this design, with the proper selection of materials, that will provide you with a reliable and durable roof.

Regardless of whether you do the installation of metal tiles with your own hands or hire installers, it is important to clearly understand that the roof is a rather complex structure, during the construction of which it is necessary to strictly follow the recommendations for the installation of metal tiles, which are given by manufacturers, as well as all building codes and regulations.

Constantly keep under control the entire installation of metal tiles (you can download the video instruction or watch it here), since the consequences of poor-quality work may not appear immediately. So, poorly laid steam and waterproofing can lead to the accumulation of condensate, deterioration of thermal insulation properties, and rotting of wooden structural elements. Keep in mind that, only by observing all the rules for installing metal tiles, you can build a reliable and durable roof.

Metal tile and installation of structural elements is carried out according to the following sequence (scheme N 1):

The technology of installation of a roof made of metal tiles implies mandatory protection of the insulation from the side of the MCH with the help of film waterproofing, and from the side of the premises - film vapor barrier.

1. Rafter system.
2. Counter rails.
3. Waterproofing film.
4. Bars of a vertical crate.
5. The initial bar of the horizontal crate.
6. Bars of a horizontal lathing.
7. Additional crate.
8. Wind board.
9. Gutter bracket.
10. Cornice plank.
11. Metal tile.
12. Roof ridge.
13. Skate seal.
14. Hearing window.
15. Thermal insulation.
16. Vapor barrier.
17. Attic lining.

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Installation instructions for metal tiles (Monterrey and its analogues)

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Tools and equipment

Installation of Monterrey metal tile and its analogues must begin with the preparation of the necessary tool. You will need:

1. Manual scissors for metal.
2. Hacksaw (with fine teeth).
3. Cutting shears for metal.
4. Special nozzle for a drill for cutting metal.
5. Electric nibblers.
6. Electric jigsaw.
7. Circular saw.
8. Bulgarian with an abrasive wheel.

• tool for cutting sheets of metal (MCH);
• screwdriver (preferably cordless);
• hammer of medium size;
• long straight rail or rule;
• marker.

• scissors for metal (manual and electric);
• hacksaw or electric reciprocating saw with appropriate blades;
• electric cutting shears;
• jigsaw;
• circular saw with victorious teeth.

At the end of the work, carefully remove the metal filings, otherwise they, rusting, will spoil the polymer coating of the MP.

Attention! In no case do not cut the metal tile with tools with abrasive wheels ("grinder"). Otherwise, under the influence of high temperatures, not only the polymer layer, but also the zinc coating will be destroyed. The result will be disappointing: a rapid rusting process will begin, rusty streaks will appear on your roof.

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Installation of metal tiles (Monterey and analogues)

If thermal insulation boards have already been purchased, then the pitch of the rafters will depend on their width, since subsequently the insulation will be inserted between the roof rafters.

The step of the rafters under the metal tile should be in the range of 550-900 mm. Keep in mind that if you have already purchased thermal insulation boards, then the pitch of the rafters will depend on their width, since subsequently the insulation will be inserted between the roof rafters. As a material for rafters, as a rule, a bar with a section of 150x50 mm is chosen.

After the rafters are installed, it is necessary to perform control measurements of the slopes. Check the squareness and flatness of the structure, for this, measure the diagonals of the slopes. Small deviations (up to 10 mm) are acceptable, they can later be hidden with additional elements.

Please note that if a metal tile is used for the roof, the slope of the slope must be at least 14 °. The length of the sheets is determined by the main size - the length of the slope. It is measured from the ridge to the eaves, taking into account the eaves overhang (at least 40 mm). If your slope is more than 6 m long, then the sheets must be broken into two or more pieces, which are then laid with an overlap. The overlap of the metal tile should be about 150 mm. Of course, when using long sheets on a slope, fewer joints are obtained, but it is much more difficult to lay them than short ones.

The length of the insulation should be 2-3 cm more than the distance between the rafters.

With diurnal temperature fluctuations, condensation may appear on the lower surface of the MP. Also, warm air from the house, containing moisture vapor, penetrates into the cold under-roof space. Excess moisture leads to wetting of the insulation layer, and consequently, its thermal performance deteriorates. As a result, the roof freezes, ice forms on the metal tile, the rafters and lathing rot, mold appears and the interior decoration of the premises is destroyed.

To avoid all these troubles, the installation manual for metal tiles of any manufacturer strongly recommends using insulation of the required thickness. In addition, the technology of installation of a roof made of metal tiles implies mandatory protection of the insulation from the side of the MCH with the help of film waterproofing, and from the side of the premises - film vapor barrier.

To remove moisture vapor from the under-roof space, it is necessary to create natural ventilation, that is, to ensure free movement of air from the roof eaves to its ridge. To do this, a free space (about 40 mm) is left between the MCH and the waterproofing film by means of the crate. On the cornice overhangs, when they are hemmed, gaps are left, and special holes are released in the rubber seal of the ridge.

Roll out the waterproofing horizontally on the rafters. Start from the eaves, making a sag of about 20 mm. Make an overlap between adjacent panels (approximately 150 mm). Films of the Yutafol or Yutacon brand should be placed outward with the side that has a colored strip along the edge. Flipping the film is not allowed. On the market today you can find a sufficient number of certain roofing films. Consult with managers about the features of their application.

1. Rafter leg.
2. Waterproofing material.
3. Control grid.
4. Lathing.

After installing the waterproofing material, it is possible to simultaneously lay the roof covering on the outside and thermal insulation inside the building. Install heat-insulating boards between the rafters, leaving a gap of at least 20 mm for the Yutafol or Yutacon waterproofing, otherwise the film will lose its properties. If you purchased Tyvek or Yutavek brand film, there is no need to make a gap.

On the inner surfaces of the rafters, fix the vapor barrier "Yutafol H Silver" or "Yutafol H 110" with a stapler. Lay the vapor barrier sheets with an overlap, hermetically connecting them with adhesive tape. After completing this stage of work, you can begin the interior lining (if it is an attic floor).

Carry out the crate from antiseptic-treated beams with a section of 50x50 mm and edged boards 32x100 mm (approximate values). First, nail falling beams onto the rafters over the waterproofing film from the ridge to the eaves, and then fasten the batten boards on them.

Take the first board of the crate (if you count from the cornice) thicker than the others (about 10-15 mm). Now the most important thing is to maintain the necessary distances between the boards. If you have a Monterrey metal tile, the installation of the second board must be carried out, stepping back from the bottom edge of the first board 300 mm (measure to the middle of the second board being nailed).

Before mounting the metal tile, in the inner junction of the slopes, the bottom bar of the valley is fastened with self-tapping screws to the solid crate. If the planks need to be joined, an overlap is made (100-150 mm).

The same distance for MCH "MP Maxi" is 350 mm. The center distance of all subsequent boards of the crate (32x100 mm) for the "Monterey" or "Supermonterey" MCH is 350 mm, for the "Maxi" MCH - 400 mm. If you have made a rafter pitch of more than 1000 mm, use thicker batten boards.

Perform a continuous crate in the valleys, near the chimneys, along the perimeter of the dormers and dormers. On both sides of the ridge, nail two additional edged boards, and lift the end strips above the ordinary crate, to a height equal to the height of the MCH profile.

Before mounting the metal tile, in the inner junction of the slopes on a continuous crate, fasten the bottom bar of the valley with self-tapping screws. If the planks need to be joined, overlap (about 100-150 mm). Then mark and cut (if necessary) the MCH sheets. Mount the metal tile from the bottom up.

From above, at the junction of sheets (it rarely looks beautiful), install a decorative element - the upper bar of the valley. Attention! Junction nodes are the weakest point of the roof. Therefore, so that later you do not have to repair metal tiles, approach their device especially carefully.

To ensure a hermetic adjoining of the roof from the MCH to the chimneys and walls, an internal apron is made on the slope. Use the lower junction bars for its manufacture. Attach the plank to the pipe wall and mark the top edge of the plank on the brick. Then, along the marked line with the help of a grinder, punch a strobe. After chasing is completed, remove dust and rinse the working section of the wall with water.

Start installing the inner apron from the wall of the pipe located on the underside of the slope (from the side of the eaves, not the ridge). Cut the bar in place, install and secure with self-tapping screws. Using the same principle, install the apron on all remaining sides of the pipe. If you have to join the planks, overlap (about 150 mm). Treat the edge of the apron inserted into the strobe with silicone sealant (it is better if it is colorless).

Fasten the gutter holders to the bottom board of the crate. Their method of attachment and pitch is determined by the type of drainage system used.

Then, under the bottom edge of the inner apron, put a flat sheet, the so-called tie, which will provide water drainage. Direct the tie either into the valley or down to the roof eaves. Along the edge of the tie, using pliers and a hammer, make a rim.

Mount MCH sheets on top of the apron and tie. After laying the roofing around the chimney, proceed to the manufacture and installation of the outer apron. For its manufacture, use the upper junction bars. Install them in the same way as the lower ones, only do not insert the upper edge into the strobe, but fasten it directly to the wall.

Attention! All movements on the roof from the MCH must be carried out only if safety measures are observed. Wear soft, comfortable, non-slip shoes. Step only into the deflection of the wave. Put on the installer's belt and fasten the tether.

Fasten the gutter holders to the bottom board of the crate. Their method of attachment and pitch is determined by the type of drainage system used. So read the instructions that come with it. Pay special attention to the location of the edge of the gutter. It should be below the edge of the metal tile by 25-30 mm. This is necessary to maintain the integrity of the gutters when snow layers leave the roof.

If the gutter system has a rectangular cross section, then the gutter is simply inserted and fixed in the holders. The cornice strip is attached to the roof lathing, while the lower edge of the strip overlaps the edge of the gutter. The waterproofing film is removed above the eaves (to drain condensate).

When installing a round gutter, it is necessary to bring its rear edge into the fixing ledge on the holder. The cornice strip is installed according to the above method. Roofing film is also displayed above the cornice strip.

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Installation of metal tiles - instructions for installing skylights

The number of windows required for a comfortable level of attic lighting can be determined by the ratio of the usable glazing area to the area of ​​the room. Values ​​from 1:8 to 1:12 are recommended.

Let's make a small digression and consider the option of a roof with skylights. The number of windows required for a comfortable level of attic lighting can be determined by the ratio of the usable glazing area to the area of ​​the room. Values ​​from 1:8 to 1:12 are recommended. That is, if your attic has an area of ​​​​100 sq.m, then the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bwindows should be 10 sq.m. It is recommended to install skylights at a height of 90-110 cm from the floor level. When choosing windows, also keep in mind that two small windows located at some distance will give more light than one large one.

In addition, you can install skylights in groups, horizontally, vertically or in combination. As a rule, windows are installed on the crate with simultaneous fastening to the rafters. Although there may be their own characteristics, depending on the manufacturer of roof windows. If the horizontal dimensions of the window do not match the pitch of the rafters, a partial change in the truss structure will be required. In this case, it is recommended to install a rafter fragment and additional horizontal counter rails that fix it. The opening under the window should exceed its dimensions by 40-60 mm in the horizontal plane and by 45 mm in the vertical plane. Usually the installation of skylights is not difficult, since each window has detailed installation instructions.

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The first sheet is aligned along the end of the roof and is fixed with one self-tapping screw in the upper part. At the same time, a visor made of metal tiles (removal) of the order of 40 mm is made at the eaves.

Align the first sheet along the end of the roof and secure with one self-tapping screw in the upper part. At the same time, make a visor of metal tiles (removal) of about 40 mm at the eaves. Lay the second sheet with an overlap on the first (if you are mounting from right to left) or bring the edge of the second sheet under the first - when mounting from left to right.

Between themselves, connect the sheets with self-tapping screws in the upper part of the overlap, while not screwing them to the crate and provide them with the opportunity to move relative to the self-tapping screw holding the first sheet in the upper, ridge part.

Lay the third sheet in the same way as the second. Align all three sheets connected to each other parallel to the eaves. If it is necessary to join the sheets along the length, lay them in the order indicated in Figure B. Attention! If your metal tile is equipped with a protective film, be sure to remove it during installation.

Fasten the lower part of the sheet with self-tapping screws to the sole of the MCH wave. Step through the wave. Arrange the subsequent rows of self-tapping screws in a checkerboard pattern, also alternating them through the wave. Fasten the side overlaps of the sheets with self-tapping screws for each ridge. The estimated consumption of self-tapping screws during the installation of metal tiles is 6-8 pieces / sq.m of roofing.

Attention! When buying a metal tile, check with the supplier for the terms of the guarantee. The fact is that some manufacturers provide a guarantee for the MCH only if they use self-tapping screws of a strictly defined brand. Therefore, advice: buy self-tapping screws from a metal tile supplier.

At the ends of the roof, install end strips with an overlap of 50 mm. Fix them with self-tapping screws through 550-600 mm. Use self-tapping screws 80 mm long on the top, 28 mm on the side. Trim the planks if necessary.

Under the ridge, a curly seal must be placed, after releasing the ventilation holes.

Skate bars can be flat or round. Start installing the round ridge bar by fixing flat or conical plugs on its ends with self-tapping screws or rivets (choose their shape in accordance with the shape of your roof). For a flat ridge, no plugs are required.

Place a curly seal under the ridge, after releasing the ventilation holes. Install a flat or round ridge on the laid seal. Place ridge screws 80 mm long through the MCH wave. Make an overlap of 100 mm between the individual ridge panels.

I ordered the renovation of the roof from the outside, the material was not common, delta and seam roofing films were from the Grand Line, the material was bought at reasonable prices, the guys have good discounts, I myself would hardly have bought it cheaper, the material was stored at home, before the start of work, delivered to the place of work on time, there were a couple of mistakes when ordering, they ordered a little more insulation, but their calculation coincided with mine, so I don’t consider it their mistake, no more, no less, it will go to another roof ..., the second one ... They brought a ventilation outlet not that long, they replaced it quickly, there are no problems, but I didn’t even notice that the screws were of the wrong color, they replaced it and noticed when they stayed after work. In general, well done, they eliminated their jambs quickly, without additional payments, without taking out the brain to the customer. Although, given their volume of orders and work ... you can’t do without mistakes
I give it a solid five...
Now about the brigade... Sergey, Igor, Nikita... Well done
Certified by the grand line, the work was carried out strictly according to the technology, the truss system became better than the new one, the jambs of the previous builders were eliminated, I am satisfied with the result. I had to wait a month and a half, but the wait was worth it. According to a hundred point system of 99 points, he took off the ball for swearing among themselves, .... but how they swear .... You will listen .... And that's all on business. Once again, well done.
Too bad the photo can't be inserted.

Dmitry

Real professionals! I was very pleased with the level and quality of work performed. I recommend!

Anna

I turned to the organization with the task of converting an old roof from slate into a roof from flexible tiles. The guys did an excellent job. From consultation to installation. Was very pleased. Thank you! Photos of the roof will send, as promised)

Konstantin

I came to the Tver Roofing Company on the recommendation of friends and did not lose. Firstly, I purchased a metal tile of a more interesting Cameo profile (I wanted Monterrey) at the same price. The profile is more like a natural tile. Secondly, I used the services of roofers from this company. Special thanks to Sergey. Together, I even saved a little. 100% satisfied with the work and quality of the material. Good luck guys and prosperity.

Kurenkov Anton

This is not the first time I contact this company, as I am engaged in the construction of a country house. Competent managers always provide detailed information on issues of interest. The price-quality ratio of materials is very satisfactory, compared to other organizations in the city of Tver. I plan to use this company in the future.

Natalia

I decided to buy a metal tile for my building house in this company. The price of a metal tile was attractive, I did not find cheaper in Tver. Arriving at the office to calculate all the materials and order, there was a certain conflict.
The guys convinced and proved to me that on my roof (I have it rather complicated and attic) it is better to take not a metal tile, but a soft tile. I thought about it, but considered it too expensive and abandoned this thought. But the manager in the office convincingly convinced me that soft tiles are the best option for my roof. I decided to trust the professionals and agreed.
And now, I have been living in my house for a whole month and I am happy, including what a wonderful roof I have. Yes, it came out a little more expensive than I planned, but how many pluses I got: not the slightest noise from the rain, there was no waste, the house looks much more beautiful and richer. Many more pluses, all as the manager promised. And most importantly - the wife is very happy.
In the end, I want to thank the guys for their work, their professionalism and my good mood. Thanks.

Today, metal tiles have become one of the most popular materials used as roofing. It has earned its popularity due to its durability, strength, reasonable cost and excellent appearance. In addition, mounting it is quite simple if you know the basic rules that must be followed. At the same time, fastening a metal tile is one of the most important operations that determine the reliability of the entire structure in the future.

What you need to know before you get started

How to properly fix sheets of metal to the crate

The crate itself is a construction of wooden boards of the same size, which is mounted at the same distance from each other (it must match the step of the metal tile used). The boards located under the ridge and at the eaves most often have a large thickness without maintaining the required distance between the boards on the slope.

In the process of fastening sheets of material on the roof slope, it is necessary to tighten the self-tapping screws along a line located 10-15 mm lower from the stamping line between the ridges. In the event that the crate was made correctly, in full accordance with all the diagrams and instructions, the screws can be screwed into any regular place, since there must be a board there. For greater confidence that everything is being done correctly, it is worth watching a video on the topic (even if the work will not be done on your own).

Metal on the boards is always laid without a technological gap, so the sheets of metal tiles will be guaranteed to be pressed to the crate with high reliability without material deformation. It is worth noting that the fasteners will not be noticeable, as they will always be in the shadow of such a “step”.

Two ways of docking sheets

During installation, it is possible to use several effective methods for joining individual sheets of metal tiles: in waves or in rows. In the first case, the tasks of protecting the plane of the roofing material from side wind and uniformity and “integrity” of the appearance of the slope are solved. In this case, all self-tapping screws must be twisted in each of the rows below the stamping line, in the sector from the crest to the outer edge of the top sheet.

If docking is performed in rows, according to the installation instructions, it is done on the boards of the step crate (fasteners are placed on the boards in each wave). When it comes to the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slope, the fasteners are distributed evenly. In this case, the movement is carried out from the eaves to the ridge, and fixation is carried out in every third wave with a shift in any direction by one wave of the sheet, when there is a transition to the next row to continue fastening.

How to fasten sheets along the cornice line

The formation of a cornice assembly with a sheet protruding beyond the edge (by about 50 mm) is used especially often today. In this case, all water after rain falls directly into the gutter, so the wooden structural elements remain reliably protected from splashes, which has a significant impact on their durability. Self-tapping screws in this case, according to the instructions, must be screwed in through one wave 70 mm above the stamping line.

It is important to consider: so that the lower waves do not sag down, with this method, it is necessary to attach it to a board of greater thickness than the rest by 15-20 mm. The distance between the centers of the first stepping board and the eaves board, with a width of 100 mm, will be 250 mm.

Also, this node can be formed so that the regular cut of the metal tile is located on top of the cornice board (in this case, rainwater will fall into the gutters directly from it). Most often, this method is resorted to in some situations that are difficult for roofers, when it comes to stepped cornices or violations of the geometry of the roof in this area.

Approach to the ridge: fixing the metal tile

At the top of the structure, the batten always ends with a ridge support board. When performing this operation, the installation of an additional ridge board is required, thus providing a gap of 80 mm between the same boards of adjacent slopes, which plays an important role in organizing roof ventilation.

An effective way to bring the ridge plank to the end of the entire structure over the planks is to install a support board, which is 15-20 mm thicker than other sheathing materials used for roof construction.

This is the only way to avoid the “drawdown” of the roof ridge in relation to the line of the end plank.

The fastening of the spinal (ridge) strip is carried out with self-tapping screws at the highest points of the roofing material. The distance between the fasteners is up to 0.8 m. At the same time, it is worth noting that all fixation points will be located at an equal distance from the roof sheathing, therefore, when tightening the screws, there will be no deformation of the ridge bar.

Fastening at the end of the ramp

First of all, it is necessary to fix sheets of metal tiles along the end lines of the roof slopes in each wave of material in regular places. Then, in order to fix the end bar, you need to fix it to the highest points of each of the sheets through one wave of material. The step between the bindings, as in the approach to the ridge, is no more than 0.8 m.

In these places, the fasteners will be noticeable, so it is advisable to clearly observe equal distances between them (it is best to mark up first).

When additional fastening with self-tapping screws is required

The main task in this case is to resist the design of wind loads. In this regard, it is necessary to provide increased reliability of fastening in the following areas:

1. sheets of metal tiles between each other when applying the method of fastening:
   • by waves (1);
   • by rows (2).
2. sheets to the crate:
   • along the cornice line (3);
   • along the ridge line (4).
3. along the end line (5) sheets are fixed on the boards.

Installation instructions for metal tiles: from A to Z

This article will talk about how to install a metal roof, provide detailed instructions for building a roof structure and laying the material itself.

For more detailed information, you can also watch the video - installation instructions for metal tiles.

The roof is one of the most important parts of the entire structure of the house. It serves for a long time, without requiring serious investments and complex maintenance during operation. The durability of the roof is primarily affected by the absence of accumulation of moisture in the form of steam and water, which is achieved by equipping high-quality ventilation and insulation of the space under the roof, especially in the case of a roof with an attic and an insulated attic.

In the case of a cold attic, the roof structure most often already includes sufficiently high-quality ventilation, which, nevertheless, must be carried out in compliance with the technology, which is also described by the installation instructions for metal tiles - video.

Moisture, which is part of the ambient air, can cause the greatest damage to structures. Daily and seasonal temperature fluctuations cause condensation to form on metal tiles and other structural elements.

In winter, temperature differences in the insulation material can reach several tens of degrees, which also causes moisture to settle from the vapor contained in the air. A decrease in temperature leads to an increase in the pressure of water vapor from the premises into the space under the roof, while cold air retains less vapor than warm air.

Saturation of the insulation with moisture leads to a decrease in its qualities, in addition, accumulations of moisture cause corrosion of the roof structure. In addition to air, moisture can enter the insulation with melt and rain water. Looking at the installation: metal tile - video, in addition to protection from rain, you should also pay attention to protection from snow, which can fall horizontally in strong winds.

It is desirable to carry out the construction of a mansard metal roof in the following order:

1. Rafter system and intermediate crate;
2. attic room;
3. vapor barrier film;
4. insulation material;
5. Counter-lattice for metal tiles and waterproofing;
6. crate;
7. Wind boards;
8. Installation of valleys;
9. Hooks for gutters;
10. Cornices;
11. Laying of metal tiles;
12. Tees, skates and plugs of skates;
13. Pipes and ventilation outlets;
14. Sewer and antenna outlets;
15. Planks wind;
16. Walkways, ladders, snow guards;
17. Gutters and accessories;
18. Crows or water receivers;
19. Various pipes and accessories;
20. Cleaning and painting of the coated surface.

Installation of waterproofing and rafter systems

1 - vapor barrier layer; 2 - insulation material; 3 - rafters; 4 - intermediate crate; 5 - counter-lattice; 6 - waterproofing film; 7 - sheets of metal tiles; 11 - crate; 20 - ceiling

Do-it-yourself installation of metal tiles: the video recommends choosing an inter-rafter distance in the region of 60 to 90 cm. An increase in this distance requires the further use of sheathing boards of a larger section. For the manufacture of rafters, a bar is used, the minimum section of which is 150x50 mm.

Manufacturers recommend laying insulation using all available space for this, while film manufacturers most often recommend making a gap between the insulation and waterproofing, which allows ventilation of the insulation by removing moisture.

Waterproofing and sheathing:

3 - rafters; 4 - intermediate crate; 5 - counter-lattice; 6 - waterproofing layer; 11 - crate; 23 - crate initial

Installation of metal tiles: video - the instruction recommends doing the following:

1. An intermediate crate is stuffed on the rafters, the height of which is 50 mm;
2. Waterproofing is temporarily attached to it with the help of a construction stapler, the final fastening is subsequently carried out with the help of slats of the counter-lattice, which allows you to significantly expand the choice of waterproofing films;
3. The waterproofing is rolled out parallel to the eaves in a horizontal direction. When laying the next layer, an overlap of at least 150-200 mm is observed if the roof slope is 30 ° or more, or 250 mm if the slope angle is 12-30 °, in the case of hip roof ridges, the waterproofing overlap should be additionally increased by 50 millimeters;
4. The joints of the waterproofing film are placed under the counter-lattice, with an overlap of at least 100 mm, without using a connecting tape.

Important: care should be taken to ensure that the waterproofing is not fixed “in tension”, it is imperative to leave a uniform sag of 10-15 mm along the entire width of the film.

The film must be placed at a distance of at least 30 mm from the heat-insulating material; touching the insulation with the film is not allowed.

A significant disadvantage of this method is that air flows vent heat from the insulation along with wet vapors, therefore it is better to use waterproofing with a higher vapor transmission capacity, but capable of withstanding significant water pressure.

This allows the waterproofing to also perform a windproof function. In addition, there is no need to install an intermediate crate and leave a gap when laying waterproofing on top of the insulation material, since it will also perform the function of windproofing.

Useful: a more complex design option, designed for prolonged exposure to moisture, is the use of different films to provide hydro and wind insulation.

Before performing the installation of metal tiles - instructions: the video also instructs to check the squareness of the slopes of the truss system. In case of inequality of the slope diagonals, they are leveled with additional spacers under the gable boards, and only after that the installation of waterproofing begins.

The counter-lattice is nailed with galvanized nails, which allows you to finally fix the waterproofing film.

Checking slopes for squareness

The initial purlin, unlike the others, should be laid under the upper "step" of the metal tile.

Accordingly, its height should be selected so that it is larger than the others by the value of the step height, which is 18 mm. It should also be ensured that it is straight and horizontally parallel to the eaves.

Before installing the crate under the metal tile, mark the counter-crate so that the distance between the boards that make up the crate is 35 cm, the first distance is 28-30 cm. For the manufacture of the crate, boards are used, the cross section of which is 100x30 mm.

Important: if the pitch of the rafters exceeds 90 cm, the cross section of the boards of the crate should be increased.

In those places where chimneys and ventilation pipes, skylights, hatches, etc. are installed, waterproofing should be beaded on the walls of these outlets.

Construction of a cold attic

1 - vapor barrier film; 2 - a layer of insulation; 6 - waterproofing; 7 - sheets of metal tiles; 9 - roof ridge; 13 – sealant layer; 20 - ceiling

Instructions for installing metal tiles require compliance with the technology of laying waterproofing and battens, as well as the drainage system.

Laying waterproofing is mandatory in any situation, since even a slight penetration of heat from the under-roof space, especially in winter, causes condensation to form on the metal tile. In a cold attic, waterproofing is laid under the metal tile, leaving a gap of at least 50 mm.

This allows you to equalize the temperatures on the inside and outside of the metal tile coating, even in the case of small heat leaks from the premises. In this case, the greatest efficiency is achieved by arranging waterproofing from films with anti-condensate coatings.

Both at the arrangement of the attic and the attic space, a horizontal filing of the cornice is performed, which provides for the penetration of air flows through the gaps in the filing material. The total width of the gaps must be at least 30 mm.

The vapor barrier is laid on the ceiling and covered with a layer of insulation, which can be foam plastic, sprinkled with additional gravel, which protects against fire.

Vapor barrier and thermal insulation

Mansard roof structure:

1 - vapor barrier layer; 2 - insulation material; 3 - rafters; 4 - intermediate crate; 5 - counter-lattice; 6 - waterproofing film; 7 - sheets of metal tiles; 9 - roof ridge; 10 - roof cornice; 11 - crate; 13 – sealant layer; 17 - cornice board; 20 - ceiling; 22 - ventilation grille; 23 - initial crate

Recommendations for the installation of metal tiles require the installation of a vapor barrier, which prevents the penetration of air containing moist vapors from the interior, and moisture from the heat-insulating material into the premises.

When laying the vapor barrier, overlap the upper sheets on the lower ones by at least 10 cm, and at the joints on horizontal planes - at least 20 cm. The tightness of the overlaps is ensured by fastening the overlaps with a special adhesive tape.

When using heat-insulating material, additional requirements are also imposed on ventilation:

• Good ventilation is ensured by air circulation. As already mentioned, when hemming the cornices, it is necessary to ensure the free movement of air flows along the entire perimeter, using elements such as perforated soffit or lining sheets laid with a gap;
• Under normal conditions, air moves from the eaves towards the ridge due to the heating of the roof by the rays of the sun and the heat of the interior, so air masses should be removed from under the ridge. The ventilated skate will be discussed below;
• In the case of long slopes (over 7-10 meters, depending on the shape and design of the slope), additional ventilation outlets are required.

If the ramp design does not provide for a ventilated ridge or other ventilation, the installation of outlets is mandatory;

• The minimum value of the total area of ​​the ventilation openings is 1 cm2 per square meter of roof. In the case of ventilated skates on rectangular slopes, exits should be installed at a height of at least 2/3 of the length of the given slope, starting from the eaves, and in the absence of ventilation, at the highest possible height;
• The number of ventilation outlets for wide slopes is calculated so that air from the eaves moves towards them at an angle not exceeding 45 °;
• Ventilation can also be improved by increasing the air gap in the space under the roof and installing a ventilation grate in it.

Moisture loss on the interior walls of the premises is most often the result of the following errors:

• Poor quality or lack of vapor barrier, as a result of which moisture from the insulation enters the premises;
• Poor or insufficient thermal insulation, leaving cold interior walls, which leads to a dew point on them.

The main nuances when installing insulation

• Before proceeding with the installation of insulation, you must carefully read the instructions for the material, since preliminary tracking of the material may be required;
• When laying insulation between the various elements, there should be no gaps. In the case of laying several layers of material, it is desirable to combine the joints or arrange them perpendicular to each other;
• The thickness of the thermal insulation material must be carefully selected, as an incorrectly selected thickness can cause condensation to form on the vapor barrier or internal walls. In the middle lane, the recommended thickness of the insulation material is at least 150 mm and depends on factors such as the selected material, wall thickness and manufacturer's recommendations;
• To prevent heat leakage, the slabs of heat-insulating material should be laid as close as possible to the ceiling and walls of the attic. In the case of multilayer insulation, the plates are pressed against each other, while it is important to prevent their deformation;
• It is also very important to use dry insulation material during installation and not allow it to be exposed to atmospheric precipitation during the installation process. For this purpose, the installation of a waterproofing film is usually carried out first, especially in the case of large buildings, the construction of which stretches over a fairly long period of time;
• After completing the laying of each of the layers, the insulation material must rest for some time.

To insulate the under-roof space, three types of heaters are usually used:

1. Styrofoam-based, such as extruded polystyrene foam, have high water-repellent and waterproofing characteristics that do not depend on humidity, as well as resistance to decay and hardness.

The disadvantages of such materials are low operating temperature and susceptibility to combustion, in which toxic gases are released in significant quantities. Ignition is prevented by sprinkling with gravel, the layer of which is at least 5 cm, or by wrapping it with non-combustible insulation material;

• Fiberglass-based insulation is characterized by low density and lack of toxicity. At the same time, they are less fire and moisture resistant than basalt slabs, and under the influence of moisture they quickly lose their thermal insulation characteristics;
• The most durable and high-quality thermal insulation is provided by the use of slabs based on basalt fiber. Such plates have a low density, and the basalt fiber in them is located non-directionally, which provides protection against subsidence throughout the entire service life.

This material is able to withstand temperatures up to 1100°, while its operating temperature is 750°, which is 10 times higher than the value for expanded polystyrene. Basalt slabs do not corrode and do not absorb moisture, which is the main enemy of thermal insulation, since its thermal conductivity is twenty times higher than that of air.

In addition, basalt slabs are quite easily cut with a knife, which allows for the installation of thermal insulation with the highest quality.

Useful: the pitch of the rafters can also depend on the size of the insulation, so it is advisable to choose the material in advance.

Laying sheets of metal

Finally, consider how to properly mount the metal tile:

• Installation of sheets begins in the lower corner of the slope, on the side that is opposite to the capillary groove. The groove is designed to eliminate the capillary effect that occurs when water rises along the capillary formed by sheets of metal tiles pressed against each other;
• It is most convenient to start the installation in the lower left corner, while the next sheet will cover the previous one.

In addition, sheets can be stacked so that the next sheet is slipped under the previous one, which increases the risk of damage to the coating of the sheets;

• Regardless of the complexity of the slope, the sheets are laid parallel to the cornice, which is aligned horizontally, while leaving an overhang behind the cornice of about 40 mm;
• The figure shows the stacking of sheets in the optimal order, but you can also stack in order, moving from the bottom to the top row;
• Speaking about how to join sheets of metal, it should be borne in mind that up to 4 sheets can be joined at the corners, the thickness of which is 0.4-0.5 mm. Therefore, the offset of the corners of sheets superimposed in one row on top of each other increases in the case of their horizontal arrangement.

In this regard, when laying metal tiles, a slight clockwise rotation should be performed in order to arrange the right corners of the sheets of one row in one straight line;

• The fastening of adjacent sheets is carried out using one self-tapping screw in the upper part of the sheet, after which the sheets are aligned and the final fastening is made;
• In order to facilitate installation and at the same time give the roof a more attractive appearance, it is recommended to lay the longest sheets in the bottom row, while aligning them both with the sheets themselves relative to the eaves and their waves with respect to neighboring sheets.

Fastening of a metal tile

Fastening metal tile sheets with a windshield

The consumption of self-tapping screws is on average 6-8 pieces per 1 m2 or 3 pieces per linear meter on each side of the sheet.

Fastening is carried out in each transverse wave, observing a step of 350 mm, or in longitudinal waves through one (the step is about 366 mm) in the upper ridge.

Speaking about how to properly screw the metal tile, it should be clarified that the most suitable tool is a screwdriver or a drill with a slow rotation of the cartridge.

The drill at the end of the self-tapping screw allows it to drill metal, so the metal tile can even be attached to a metal crate.

Important: the accuracy of fastening can be improved by first punching a hole.

In general, the following rules apply for fastening metal tiles:

• Fastening is always carried out in the lower crest of the wave at the point of pressing against the crate, which avoids the occurrence of a lever between the fastening points and the application of force to the self-tapping screw;
• The fastening of the lower sheets to the initial purlin is carried out in each wave above the step, since this edge experiences the greatest loads from the wind;
• Fastening to other purlins should be carried out at the minimum possible distance from the bottom to the step, since at this point the metal tile has the greatest rigidity, and these points themselves are most often in the shadow of the step, which allows the self-tapping screws not to be conspicuous;
• Fastening from the side of the wind bar is carried out in each wave;
• All sheets should be attracted to each of the purlins, fastening to every second purlin is carried out through one wave;
• The best fit of adjacent sheets is achieved by shifting the fastener centers by 55 mm in the joined waves in the overlap direction for the top sheet and away from the overlap for the bottom sheet. This allows you to press the bottom sheet to the top;
• At the overlap points, the sheets are fastened through one wave. You can also fasten in each wave, ensuring the best fit of the top sheets.

For cutting metal tiles, it is best to use electric shears, but you can also use hand shears or a circular saw with large teeth from Pobedit.

Important: cutting metal tiles with a grinder is unacceptable, since high temperatures cause heating, burning and peeling of the protective coating of the material.

The highest quality self-tapping screws for metal tiles are made from:

• Alloy steel with galvanization;
• Stainless steel with seal and powder coating.

Incorrect screw tightening

Self-tapping screws are usually painted to match the color of the metal tile, after which they are fired in a kiln. Screwing should be done strictly perpendicular to the purlins.

Since the sheets of metal tiles should be attracted to the purlins as tightly as possible, incorrect screwing and distortion of the self-tapping seal often lead to through holes.

Important: in conditions of prolonged exposure to an alkaline or acidic environment, self-tapping screws equipped with plastic caps should be used.

Installation of other elements

Ventilated skate device:

1 - vapor barrier layer; 3 - rafters; 4 - intermediate crate; 5 - counter-lattice; 6 - waterproofing film; 7 - sheets of metal tiles; 8 - roofing screws; 9 - roof ridge; 11 - crate; 24 - ridge cap

When installing a ventilated ridge of a metal tile, it should be taken into account that the waterproofing film must have a gap of at least 200 mm along its entire length. The vapor barrier, which is a denser material, is laid out on a continuous crate with a waterproofing overlap of at least 150 mm, which allows free air circulation from the space under the roof to the outside.

To do this, there are holes in the profiled seal, the small diameter of which prevents the penetration of snow or birds. They fasten the ridge through one wave in the upper crest of the metal tile on both sides, closing at the end with plugs. The tightness of the overlap of the laid skates is ensured by closing its grooves on each other.

2 - insulation material, 4 - intermediate crate; 6 - waterproofing film; 7 - sheets of metal tiles; 13 – sealant layer; 14 - upper valley; 15 - lower valley; 21 - valley board

Another element used when a metal tile is laid is a valley, the design of which is shown in the figure.

What is the valley for: the metal tile has an oblique cut, which is closed with the help of the valley. In addition, a universal seal is laid between the sheet of material and the lower valley. The valleys are located on the board of the valleys, which is nailed to the intermediate crate or to the rafters in its absence. Waterproofing is being rolled along the valleys.

In conclusion, I would like to say that the transportation and lifting of metal tiles should be carried out carefully, avoiding damage to the coating of the material. After the installation is completed, the surface should be cleaned of debris and chips, and then paint over the places of scratches and cuts.

After three months of operation, it is necessary to additionally tighten the screws, since any fastening to wood weakens over time. In addition, it is recommended to wash the metal tile annually with a mild soapy solution.

Do-it-yourself instructions for installing metal tiles: recommendations on how to properly mount, join, screw sheets, valley coatings and properly climb to the roof, video from the masters

How to fix metal tiles with self-tapping screws

Practicality and elegant appearance, that's what positively characterizes the metal tile as a roofing material. A large selection of colors allows you to apply a variety of architectural solutions for your home. The protective coating of the sheet serves as a guarantee of durability and resistance to atmospheric precipitation. It is very important to competently and professionally lay the roof, so the correct fastening of your metal tile depends on knowing the basic rules for its construction. To do this, you need to take into account a number of factors, and we will try to comprehensively cover them from different angles.

Material properties and necessary tools for installation

In the production of metal tiles, a steel sheet is used, on which a multi-layer coating is applied, which ensures its long operation and protection from aggressive atmospheric precipitation. The cover consists of the following components:

1. Cold-rolled steel with a thickness of 0.4 to 0.6 mm;
2. Galvanized coating containing zinc not less than 275 g∕m 2 ;
3. Coating with a composition with anti-corrosion properties;
4. A primer layer that provides the best adhesion of subsequent layers;
5. Polymer coating, which guarantees the preservation of properties during operation in extreme weather conditions;
6. A layer of varnish that protects against mechanical stress during installation is applied from the inside of the metal tile.

The composition of the coating implies the final cost of the product and can vary widely. For example, a 25 micron polyester coating is the most budget option, while 35 micron matte polyester is significantly more expensive. More resistant to external influences, plastisol is considered with a coating thickness of about 200 microns. The pural polyurethane coating withstands large temperature differences and has a coating thickness of 50 microns. Whereas the composition of PVDF with acrylic is well washed by itself and is resistant to aggressive environments. Cold-rolled steel sheet is galvanized, after which it is stamped, and layers of protective coatings and dye are applied to it, providing a marketable appearance.

What tool and how to fix the metal tile will be discussed below in the text. In order not to damage the multilayer protective cake of metal tiles, it is necessary to use equipment with a gentle effect when cutting and installing the material, namely:

• a measuring tool, which includes a certified tape measure and a building level, as well as a set of marking markers and pencils;
• cutting tools, such as metal shears and slow-speed saws, that do not lift the edges of the sheet when cutting;
• a screwdriver with replaceable batteries and adjustable torque, equipped with nozzles (bits) for the corresponding self-tapping screws;
• the devil, designed for convenience when installing complex fasteners and consisting of four boards with hinged fastening, equal in size to the working width of the metal tile;
• drill with adjustable speed;
• hammer for joining and making bends;
• shoes with soft rubberized soles, so as not to deform the surface of the material, and slipping does not occur;
• roofing hexagonal self-tapping screws at the rate of 8 - 10 pieces per m 2 and when installing protective elements of the roof - 3 pieces per linear meter.

The most important is the adjustment of the screwdriver for the force of screwing in the screw. The scheme of fastening the metal tile with self-tapping screws depends on this and they must be screwed in so as not to crush the sheet during installation. The presence of knots or chips in the place of installation forces a constant visual control of the quality of fasteners. We understood what a metal tile is and how to fix it, now we will proceed directly to the installation.

Before starting roofing

Starting the laying of the coating, it is necessary to develop a scheme for fixing the metal tile with self-tapping screws and further adjust it as the roof is installed. In addition to a safe, serviceable tool, you need to work in overalls and gloves to avoid injury during work. Do not start installation in windy weather, as loose sheets can be blown down in gusty, side winds. This will lead not only to deformation of the sheet itself, but also dangerous to others. Be sure to secure the stairs along which the ascent will be carried out. Be careful not to scratch the reverse side of the metal tile, which is coated with a protective coating. Make a supply of spray paint to match the color of the roof in case of damage to the front of the material.

Before fixing the metal tile, it is necessary to make sure that there are no flaws on the roof slopes. Eliminate defects in a timely manner so that the installation takes place quickly and efficiently. The fastening of metal tiles with self-tapping screws should be carried out by an experienced employee equipped with an adjusted tool. To prevent fasteners from being noticeable, their hex heads and pressure washers must be painted in the color of the sheets. If shavings get on the metal tile, it is necessary to remove it with a soft brush. The screwed-in self-tapping screw can get into the knot, in order to screw it up to the seal of the rubber gasket, workers must be provided with keys of the appropriate size. Monitor the quality of the self-tapping screws and rubber sealing washers, which must be made of frost-resistant rubber.

Scheme of installation of metal tiles

Under the scheme of fastening sheets, they mean the order of their laying on the slopes and the subsequent fastening of the metal tile to the crate. It is necessary to calculate the step of the crate in such a way that it coincides with the step of the material itself. With a smaller gap, the crate is laid at the ridge and in the area of ​​​​the eaves, where increased strength is required, and it is here that the metal tile is attached more carefully. The sheets should be screwed along a line 10 mm away from the figured stamping of the material, that is, at the point of the greatest fit of the sheet to the crate. Let's get back to how to lay out the coating and how to properly fix the metal tile. The laying order is as follows:

• first you need to mount the cornice strips in increments of 35 cm, each subsequent one overlaps the previous strip by 10 cm;
• the bottom sheet is laid first along the eaves with an overhang of 4 cm and is aligned along the edge of the roof with an offset of about 30 mm;
• then the top sheet is mounted, overlapping the bottom one by 5-7 cm, if it fits the ridge, then you need to take care of waterproofing to avoid leaks;
• then the next bottom sheet is placed with the overlap of the extreme wave of the previous one until the anticapillary groove closes;
• after that, the next top coating element is installed;
• in order to perfectly align the roof with respect to the side edges and the cornice, a block of four sheets fastened together is used, it is leveled, it is only necessary to partially fix the edge of the structure, leaving freedom of movement;
• when the ramp differs from the rectangular one, then first you need to set the central sheet, and mount the subsequent ones on both sides from it;
• in the case of a complex roof structure, it is possible to use a dash for marking and cutting, which, with a working width of 110 cm, allows you to accurately set the trimming angles of the metal tile;
• the sheet adjacent to the ridge is waterproofed, and the ridge structure is attached taking into account the ventilation gap.

It must be remembered that it is necessary to level the metal tile both along the eaves and along the waves of neighboring sheets.

You need to figure out how to properly screw the metal tile on various parts of the roof. And also important is the procedure for the correct joining of elements when covering areas with a complex configuration.

Installation and docking of the roof

A variety of architectural solutions make roofs not only beautiful, but often quite difficult to manufacture. So, in places of docking in difficult areas, the sheets have to be twisted to obtain the desired result. At the same time, the rule of overlapping roof elements should not be violated, and it is necessary to level the metal tile along the eaves.

The fastening of the metal tile to the crate is carried out with roofing screws, which have a sealing washer and a rubber gasket. Rubber is needed to prevent moisture from entering the under-roof space through a drilled mounting hole. The galvanized and painted self-tapping screw has a hexagonal head, with which it can be screwed with a screwdriver. The sting of the self-tapping screw and the threaded notch make it easy to drill through the metal of the sheet and secure it in the crate, pulling the metal tile to it. Basically, for the installation of the roof, self-tapping screws are used, the length of which allows penetration into the wood by at least 2 cm.

The screws should be screwed in strictly vertically, in the place of the best fit to the crate, so that the rubber washer is guaranteed to seal the attachment point. If the fasteners got into dense wood, then you need to manually achieve a high-quality seal with a key, which excludes the flow of moisture. The sheets can be joined together in the protruding part of the wave, providing high-quality fastening at the junction.

We have collected in a single review information on how to fix metal tiles with self-tapping screws and dismantled the wiring diagrams for the construction of the roof. By following these tips and using quality building material, you can easily bring your home under the roof. Proper fastening of the coating elements with self-tapping screws will serve as a guarantee of quality and durability and will delight you and your family.

Installation of metal roofing

Metal tile is the most popular roofing material that successfully combines not only reliability and durability, but also the aesthetic perception of the structure. The installation of a roof made of metal tiles requires strict adherence to the technology of work.

When the installation of the metal roof is completed, remove construction debris with a soft brush and treat the cuts and scratches with spray paint.

From overalls you will need:

From the tools you need to prepare:

• screwdriver;
• construction stapler;
• hammer;
• tape measure with a rag tape;
• jigsaw;
• hacksaw with fine teeth;
• scissors for metal, manual or electric nibblers;
• manual circular electric saw with carbide cutting elements.

Attention: when working with metal tiles, it is forbidden to use a grinder and any cutting devices with abrasive cutting elements, as this leads to burnout and peeling of the protective polymer layer of the sheet!

Otherwise, you not only reduce the operational properties of the roof, but also automatically lose the warranty of the manufacturer of the metal tile.

Taking measurements and calculating materials

The metal tile sheet has an upper and lower cut, that is, the distance from the corresponding edge of the sheet to the crest of the wave, usually equal to 50 mm. The area of ​​the waves, excluding the top and bottom cut, is the usable area of ​​the sheet. To calculate the number of rows of required sheets horizontally, it is necessary to divide the maximum length of the slope along the ridge or along the eaves by the useful width of the sheet, taking into account the overlap in one wave. The number of sheets in a row can be calculated by dividing the total length of the sheets in the row by the usable length of the sheet. The total length of the sheets is equal to the length of the slope from the ridge to the eaves, taking into account the overhang by 40-50mm. At the junctions of slopes, valleys, an inclined ridge, the length should completely cover all bevels.

When choosing the length of the sheet, keep in mind that at short lengths, the expansion coefficient of the metal is less, respectively, the tension of the metal is less and the likelihood of self-tapping screws breaking, loosening of holes and destruction of the metal in these places. The length of a metal tile sheet recommended by experts is 4-4.5 m.

To minimize waste, before buying a metal tile, make a drawing of the roof, lay out the sheets according to the resulting scheme, taking into account the joints, so that the waves form a single sheet over the entire roof area.

When calculating the number of waterproofing rolls, the total roof area is divided by the covered area of ​​the roll, taking into account overlaps of 15-20 cm.

When calculating the amount of insulation, the total area of ​​the roof is multiplied by 0.2m2 (recommended insulation thickness).

When calculating the additional elements, it is necessary to take into account the horizontal overlap of 10 cm (for the lower valley - 30 cm).

The number of self-tapping screws is planned based on the consumption rate of 8 pieces per 1 m2 of metal tiles / 1 m of additional elements.

All calculations are made with rounding up.

Rules for the construction of the truss system

Scheme of a hanging truss system of a gable roof.

When planning the truss system, the features of the shape of the roof, wind and snow load are taken into account. For a roof made of metal, experts recommend a distance between the rafters of 600-900mm. As a material for rafters, wood species with a moisture content of not more than 18-22% are suitable. Previously, all wooden elements of the roof structure, including the crate and additional reinforcing strips, must be treated with fire-fighting and antiseptic compounds.

If roof insulation is planned, holes up to 2.5 cm in diameter are drilled in the upper side of the rafters in increments of 30 cm to create additional inter-rafter ventilation.

The old truss structure can also be the basis for a metal roof.

Before the construction of the truss system (including if the installation of metal tiles will be carried out on the old roof), make sure that the roof is square by comparing the lengths of the slopes diagonally, check the horizontalness of the cornice, ridge, and kinks. Installation of rafters is carried out taking into account the identified errors.

The minimum slope of a metal roof according to building codes is 14°. In conditions of snowy winters and rainy climate, the recommended angle of inclination is 20-30°.

Installation of cornice and frontal boards, filing the cornice

Usually, the installation of a roof involves the presence of either a cornice or a frontal board.

Variants of nodes of the cornice overhang of a tiled roof.

The cornice board enhances the rigidity of the structure and is fixed in special grooves cut in the rafters to avoid increasing the height of the truss structure. If the installation of the drain involves the use of long hooks, it is necessary to cut out the corresponding grooves on the cornice board for them. Installation of long hooks is carried out before the installation of metal tiles. Short hooks are usually used if the installation of the metal tile is completed. They are attached to the frontal board, which is nailed to the end of the rafters. This element performs amplifying and protective functions.

For filing the cornice on the wall at the level of the lower edge of the frontal board, a bar is horizontally stuffed. Then, between it and the frontal board, a crate is made in the form of transverse bars, on which the hemming material is then attached (corrugated board, siding or spotlights that match in color and material with the metal tile).

The basic rule when filing a cornice is to ensure free air flow into the under-roof space due to ventilation gaps. The recommended ratio of the total areas of ventilation gaps and the roof is 1/100, the distribution of gaps over the roof is proportional to the areas of its individual elements.

Ventilation gaps are provided either between the lining panels (with the exception of perforated soffits), or one continuous gap is left between the wall and the last lining panel. To prevent birds and insects from entering the under-roof space, the gaps are closed with a grate with small cells.

Laying waterproofing

When laying waterproofing, it is necessary to ensure unhindered through passage of air flows.

The waterproofing film protects the under-roof space from the penetration of moisture and dirt, while possessing vapor permeability. It is forbidden to use a bitumen-based waterproofing material when constructing a roof made of metal!

When laying the waterproofing, it is necessary to ensure unhindered through passage of air flows from the eaves to the ventilated sealant of the roof ridge due to the ventilation gaps between the metal tile and the waterproofing, as well as between the waterproofing and the insulation (two-circuit ventilation).

The waterproofing film is rolled out without turning over from the eaves to the ridge with an overlap (at least 150 mm, and at the junction of the slopes - at least 200 mm) and fastened with a construction stapler. Places of overlap must be isolated with a special adhesive tape. Please note that the places of overlaps fall on the wooden elements of the truss structure and the crate.

To exclude tension and breakage of the film due to a decrease in its size from the cold and the "play" of the rafters, it is necessary to lay it with a sag of 10-20 mm along the edge of the legs of the rafters. If you are using anti-condensate or classic type waterproofing, two-circuit ventilation is required with a gap of 30-50 mm in each circuit. When using superdiffusion membranes, single-circuit ventilation is sufficient - between the membrane and the metal tile.

The waterproofing layer should protrude 200mm beyond the wall line, and cover the end boards at the ends. The overlap on the walls of such roof elements as chimneys and ventilation pipes must be at least 50 mm with an additional layer laid around.

Lathing device, installation of the lower valley

Valley plank layout.

For a roof with an inter-rafter pitch of 900 mm, boards with a section of 30x100 mm are suitable for the lathing, and with a section of 25x100 mm with a pitch of 600 mm. In case of increasing the distance between the rafters, when installing the crate, transverse boards of a larger section are used - 50 × 100mm or 50 × 150mm. The height of the section of the lowest (initial) lath of the crate should be greater than the height of the other laths by the height of the wave of the sheet, since the top of the metal tile step lies on it. It is attached strictly parallel to the eaves. The second purlin is fastened with a step of 280mm, and all subsequent ones - with a step of 350mm.

The fastening point of the ridge rail must be reinforced with two additional rails in 50mm increments. The thickness of the ridge board should be 10-15 mm more than the thickness of the other boards of the crate to create a ventilation gap.

Around the protruding elements of the roof, a continuous crate is made. At the junction of the slopes (valleys), the crate must also be continuous at a distance of 300 mm from the axis in both directions and coincide in level with the rest of the crate. Waterproofing is laid along the gutter formed by the boards, on top of which the valley is fixed with self-tapping screws at a distance of 300 mm from each other. The overlap at the junction of the valleys should not be less than 100mm. The lower valley should go to the cornice board.

Installation of sheets of metal

The scheme of installation of sheets of metal.

The lifting of sheets of metal tiles to the roof is carried out with the help of ropes along two guide lags fastened with transverse boards. During the installation process, walking on a metal tile is allowed only in places where the wave is deflected and only along the contour of the crate.

Each metal tile sheet has a capillary groove for water drainage, which is covered with the next sheet during installation. Usually start laying on the side where you do not need to cut the sheet. Sheets can be mounted both from left to right, and vice versa with an overlap in one wave, closing the capillary groove on the left side of the sheet.

Basic rules for laying metal tiles

1. Docking "along the waves" to protect the roof from side wind. Self-tapping screws at the docking point are screwed into the crest of the joined wave just below the stamping line. First of all, tighten the longitudinal joints.
2. Docking "in rows" with fastening with self-tapping screws in each wave.
3. Regardless of how geometrically complex the roof is, all sheets of metal tiles are aligned strictly along the cornice line with an overhang of 45-50mm. The sheets to be joined should first be connected to each other, only slightly “grabbing” the upper edge of each to the crate with one self-tapping screw. Only after making sure that the rectangle is correctly applied to the slope, you should screw in the remaining screws and finally fix the docked row.

Installation of counter-lattices and battens.

For fixing metal tiles, roofing screws with EPDM gasket and a protective layer to match the roof of standard sizes 4.8x28mm are used. Screwing is carried out at the places where the sheet is attached to the crate into the base of the wave perpendicular to the crate to the state of a slightly compressed gasket, the steel chips are removed with a brush with soft bristles.

To the initial lath of the crate, the sheets are attached above the step through the wave, and to the subsequent purlins - through the longitudinal wave into every second transverse one as close as possible to the stamping line. Sheets from the side of the end board are attached to each wave. The ridge strip is attached to the metal tile in the crest of the wave with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 800 mm.

The thickening point formed when four sheets are joined is removed either by cutting off part of the corner, or by slightly straightening the capillary groove.

Installation of the end plate, upper valley and junction bars

The scheme of fastening the end plate.

The waterproofing layer is laid on the end board, and its edge is closed with an end plank, which is attached to the end board with self-tapping screws from the cornice to the ridge with a step of 350 mm and with an overlap of 100 mm.

The end bar is attached in such a way as to overlap the upper crest of the wave. If during the installation process it turned out that the bottom ridge fell on the pediment, you can bend the edges of the sheet up.

When mounting the upper valley, follow the basic rule - the screws are screwed in in such a way as to exclude their passage through the middle of the lower valley. Otherwise, the waterproofing layer will be broken. A self-expanding sealant is laid between the valley (adjacency strips) and the metal tile.

Installation of the ridge bar and snow retainer

The waterproofing layer along the entire ridge space must have a gap of at least 50 mm for unimpeded evaporation of moisture. In places of point ventilation holes, a sealant must be applied. The ridge batten should be mounted with an overlap of 100 mm from the end on the end battens with an edge protrusion of 20-30 mm by attaching it to the upper ridge and the crate through the wave. In order to avoid blowing snow under the ridge, an aero roller is installed between the sheets of metal tiles and the ridge strip, and the ends are closed with plugs.

To prevent an avalanche-like descent from the roof of snow, it is necessary to install a snow retainer. Even at the stage of the crate installation, provide for the intended attachment points of this support element by placing special bars under the crest of the wave. The installation of the snow retainer is carried out parallel to the eaves with fastening under the second transverse step of the metal tile sheet.

Metal roofing also needs to be grounded in order to ensure the safety of the entire building as a whole.

When the installation of the metal roof is completed, remove construction debris with a soft brush and treat the cuts and scratches with spray paint. After 3 months of operation of the roof, check the condition of the screws, if necessary, tighten loose ones.