Do-it-yourself frame house from the foundation. How to build a frame house correctly step by step. How to build a frame house: pouring the foundation

For me, it was a matter of principle to choose exactly the option when, at the lowest labor and material costs, you can quickly and efficiently build a full-fledged residential building for the family.

Having studied several sources and many options, I decided to stop at the option, and took as a basis the typical project "Canadian - 1".

I really liked this compact two-story house 7x7.5 m, and after making the necessary calculations, I decided that such a project was within my power and means.

With a sufficient number of living rooms and household premises, it looks relatively small, and the cost of construction is several times less than when building a brick house of the same dimensions.

A typical project provides for the consumption of materials in the following sizes:

Edged board 5x15 cm - 25m3;

Roof board 2.5x15 cm - 3m3;

Expanded polystyrene for insulation - 25m3;

Roll isolon for insulation - 5 rolls;

Mounting foam - 30 fl;

OSB - 200 sheets;

Roof waterproofing - 3 rolls;

Soft roof - area 70 m2;

cement, tar, solvent, antiseptic, anchor bolts.

According to the project, on the ground floor there is a living room with a kitchen and a large dining room, a bathroom and a small hall with a vestibule from the front door. The second floor consists of three living rooms, a small common hall and a rather spacious bathroom. The project was also attracted by the fact that the garage has a common wall with the house, which saves materials and additional thermal insulation.

I chose a project, prepared the necessary materials for the first stage of work and began construction.

Before you build a house with your own hands, we put the foundation

A properly set foundation is the key to how long the house will stand and how comfortable it will be to live in it. Since my site is on the river bank and the groundwater is high, in order to avoid dampness, I did not make a basement and decided to make a foundation according to TISE on concrete piles.

My task was to build a house with my own hands cheaply, and therefore the option on poles also suited me because of its low cost.

For piles, I used used asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 250 mm., A length of 2.5 m. I deepened the pipes into the ground by one and a half meters, so that a column 1 meter high came out above the ground. I reinforced them with fiberglass reinforcement with a diameter of 16 mm, filled them with concrete mortar and reinforced anchor bolts No. 22 at the top of each column.

In a month, I personally installed 24 pillars - the basis for the future home. The concrete in each column hardened within two weeks. This time was spent on the purchase and delivery of materials for tying the foundation.

As soon as the concrete finally set, I started strapping - first I chose grooves for better strapping from the ends of the beam with a section of 15 cm, deepened sockets for fastening anchor bolts at the joints.

According to my calculations, it took me a little more than 30,000 rubles to build this - the cost of the material.

In order to fix the frame as securely as possible when assembling the strapping, I put a wide washer under each nut - in this way I tightened the nuts all the way without the risk of unnecessarily damaging the bars. In the course of work, I simultaneously treated the entire structure with a tar antiseptic and made waterproofing with construction tar.

In this form, the foundation easily survived the winter, and I was convinced that I had made the right choice.

To build a wooden house with our own hands, we begin to build the frame of the first floor and make its strapping

You can see from my step-by-step photos how to build a house with your own hands without using heavy equipment, additional labor and unnecessary funds.

With the onset of the first fine spring days, I took up the installation of the walls of the first floor. The principle of erecting a frame dwelling is that the finished frame parts are installed in the right place and fastened there.

I assembled the structural elements in parts on a flat area, and then raised them to the foundation and alternately fastened them to the base and to each other. In addition, I assembled technical openings for windows and doors separately and also raised them to the walls for fastening.

Since the structures are relatively small, I did this work almost alone, only resorting to the help of my wife to hold the structure while I was fixing it.

Between the foundation and parts of the structure, he necessarily laid sheets of roofing material.

In a month I managed to put up three walls of the first floor.

When installing the structures, I adhered to the fact that the racks of the frames were at a distance of 60 cm from each other, since the standard width of the OSB sheet is 120 cm.

The same principle was adhered to when installing floor translations.

It took me two more weekends to bring out all the walls of the first floor - I really wanted to quickly build a house with my own hands.

Of course, thinking about how to build a beautiful house with my own hands, I studied a lot of reference material, including the book “Individual House“ Platform ”- it inspired me to create!

Taking the Canadian project as a basis, during the construction I made a frame in accordance with the provided assembly technology. And although I changed something in the course of work at my own discretion, I still did not change the basis of the project in order to avoid incorrect distribution of the load on the load-bearing structural elements.

As a result, I got such a frame of the first floor:

Simultaneously with the raising of the walls of the first floor, I began to assemble the frame of the future interfloor staircase.

The next step in solving the problem of how to build a frame house with your own hands is the process of tying the first floor.

To do this, we lay an isolon folded in two layers along all the upper faces of the structure and then lay a board 5 cm thick around the entire perimeter.

Our ceiling joists are at the same time translations of the floor for the second floor. Therefore, we lay them apart from each other with an interval of 60 cm, attaching them to the harness.

Work in good weather is arguable, and the results are visible.

Now I know for sure that anyone can build a wooden house with their own hands. This is work, the main thing in which is to comply with all the prescribed standards and do everything with the utmost care - only then can you properly build a house with your own hands.

For those who are interested in this issue, my step-by-step photos will help you build a frame house with your own hands.

In this photo of mine, you can see that the frame of the first floor and the floors are fully completed. Here is such a beautiful “platform” I ended up with.

Work does not always go quickly, and on the next weekend I was able to do a little - the intense heat interfered. But the stairs, which I nevertheless installed, served as an additional fastener and added rigidity to the overall structure of the first floor.

A lot has been done in a relatively short period of time, considering that I worked almost alone.

By the way, since according to the project above the south side of the house there should be a two-meter-wide balcony-terrace, I set the ceiling joists above this part of the first floor to the required length so that they protrude 2 meters beyond the wall structure.

Wooden parts in the right places were additionally fastened together with metal corners. To screw in the screws, I used an electric drill with a special mount for self-tapping screws.

As a result, the translations of interfloor overlaps look like this:

Of course, it is difficult to calculate all the construction costs in advance - there are a lot of factors that affect the change in the final cost of the project. Moreover, you still need to solve the problem of how to build a beautiful house with your own hands, and not just put a wooden box.

During the construction of the foundation, the frame of the first floor and the floors, I spent about 80,000 rubles on materials.

The estimated amount that I plan to meet in order to build a wooden house with my own hands is 500 thousand rubles.

The next stage of the task, how to build a frame house with your own hands - we begin to build the second floor, and sheathe the structure with OSB sheets

In hot weather it is very hard to work, especially at height. Therefore, construction is progressing slowly. I assemble the wall frame on the ground, then lift it up and put it in place. With careful work during the assembly of structures, their docking at the place of fastenings does not present any difficulties.

The photo shows how the first wall of the second floor was installed:

On hot days, it was impossible to work more than three or four hours, so in the very middle of summer, work slowed down a little. But as soon as the intense heat subsided, work continued at the same pace. Simultaneously with the side walls of the second floor, he brought out the end walls “under the roof”.

It was already difficult to work here alone in order to build a wooden house with your own hands, so he invited two assistants, and heavy facade structures were lifted with a rope and inclined rails.

Together with the installation of facade structures, a screed was made along the ridge and starting rafters.

Having finished mounting the wooden structures of the walls and the ridge, I proceeded to paneling the walls - things went much more fun. First, I paneled the corners of the walls.

OSB tried to do the work on sheathing with sheets in a few days - he did not want to take risks and decided to protect the inside of the structures from the threat of soaking during rains. You can see from my photos how I managed to build a house with my own hands almost alone.

How to build a roof at home with your own hands?

That was the question that confronted me as soon as I finished building the walls.

Before that, I had done almost all the main work myself, occasionally resorting to outside help when it was necessary to support part of the structure or lift heavy facade parts to the second floor.

And now, in order to solve the question of how to build the roof of the house with your own hands, when it came to the roof lathing, I had to call another assistant, since it is not very successful to work on the rafters alone. Together, the work went much more fun.

Just like the ceilings of the first floor, I put a 5 cm thick board on the rafters, and installed the rafters also at 60 cm intervals, in order to then lay the OSB sheet on a base of three boards.

On top of the rafters, my assistant and I made the installation of a vapor barrier, using 3 rolls of a hydrotechnical membrane for the roof.

OSB sheets were laid on top of the vapor barrier material. They were raised to the roof in the same way as the facade frames.

One side of the roof has already been covered with OSB. There were small plots and one more slope. Since autumn is approaching and the rains are frequent, I discarded all other things and came to grips with the roof - in order to protect the frame from excessive wetting. The work is hard, but perseverance wins everything, and an assistant is very helpful.

At this stage, it took me to build 7 cubes of a 150x50 board; almost two - 200x50; and 65 sheets of OSB - for the outer skin, without floor and partitions.

All the lumber has practically gone into action, only the smallest trimmings - no more than 20 cm, I fold for further use as fuel - on a fire or in a smokehouse. If you use the material economically and carefully, then you can build a house relatively cheaply with your own hands.

But since this season I will not physically be able to sheathe the house with siding, so that strong and frequent rains do not spoil the material, I decided to treat the slabs with tar diluted in a solvent.

The house temporarily acquired a gloomy black appearance, but now it is reliably protected from moisture and destruction.

How to build a wooden house with your own hands: insulation and soundproofing

When he coped with the external work, during rainy weather he took up the inside a little - he insulated and at the same time made the soundproofing of the ceilings with foam plates.

The gaps between the joints and the walls were foamed with mounting foam using a gun. From the bottom, I hemmed OSB sheets with wood screws to the floors of the floor of the first floor, having previously propped them up with the help of spacers. This is very important in order to properly build a house with my own hands - in this way I not only protected the internal structures from a strong temperature drop, but also protected the foam plastic from being destroyed by mice, who love to settle in it.

The floor inside the room was covered separately by room, so as not to damage the foam in the ceilings.

On top of the log on the floor, I laid the isolon and attached it with a construction stapler, and on top - OSB sheets, which I laid on the floor in a checkerboard pattern. This is important, because when laying sheets joined at four corners, the floors begin to creak strongly.

Gradually, the interior of the house is being transformed and takes on an attractive appearance. Here you can already come to grips with the internal work on the insulation of the walls.

The work in the construction season has been completed, I closed the window openings for the winter with OSB sheets and tightened it with foil, and mothballed the construction of the house until next spring.

So, I did the main job and my dream - to build a house out of wood with my own hands - is close to completion. In winter, if the weather permits, I will take care of the interior finishing work, and with the onset of spring, work will begin to boil with renewed vigor.

I hope I told in detail and proved with the help of a photo - you can build a frame house with your own hands!

Perhaps one of you, after reading my article, will light up with a desire to build, and the photos given here will help him with this.

A frame house is a great opportunity to acquire your own comfortable housing for reasonable money and in a short time. But so that the first strong wind or heaving of the soil does not fold it like a house of cards, you need to know a clear sequence of work and some secrets of frame construction. We provide step by step instructions on how to do it right.

Design project and house drawing

Significantly reduce construction time, avoid many mistakes and reduce material consumption, design will help you. But this is not only the study of the interior of the rooms. The design project includes blueprints. For the foundation, truss system and wall frame, they are simply necessary.

To develop a design project and drawings, you can turn to professional designers or try to master specialized programs. For example: ArchiCAD, Arcon, WoodEngine, CadWork. However, please note that some programs require the purchase of a license key and time to master.

Laying the foundation for a frame house

The frame house can be independently erected by you on a slab, pile, columnar or strip foundation. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages, suitable for a certain type of soil. How to determine which one to choose?

Soil analysis on the construction site

The foundation, selected in accordance with the characteristics of the soil, is not just a reliable basis for the entire structure. It is also the rational use of your money. Not always a frame house needs an expensive slab or deep foundation.

Helping you make the right choice land analysis taken from the construction site. What it will help determine:

1. The depth of groundwater. If they flow close to the soil surface, the cellar device will have to be abandoned.
2. The qualitative composition of the earth (fine sand, gravel, clay, etc.). The best option for construction is gravel soil, the worst is fine sand.
3. The depth of soil freezing. The larger it is, the more time-consuming and costly the work on laying the foundation will be.

For research, you can dig a hole yourself at least one and a half meters deep, take samples of the earth and take them to the laboratory. A less time-consuming option is to invite geotechnical engineers directly to the construction site.

Features of the strip foundation

The strip foundation is a closed loop of reinforced concrete. It is laid under the load-bearing walls of the house along their entire length.

Despite the complexity and high cost of laying, the strip base is the best option for a frame house. It has a large bearing surface, allows you to equip the basement and perform construction work even on heaving soil.

The sequence of erection of the strip foundation:

1. Digging a trench and laying a sand cushion on its bottom.
2. Waterproofing of trench walls.
3. Installation of wooden formwork.
4. Assembly and installation of reinforcing mesh.
5. Filling the formwork with concrete and its compaction.

Strip foundation height must be at least 2 times its width. Under such conditions, transverse deformation does not occur in it.

Pile-screw foundation - a simple and affordable foundation for a house

The pile-screw foundation allows you to build a residential building on weak and uneven terrain without construction experience. It becomes a reliable support for the walls, as the piles firmly cling to solid rocks below the freezing level of the soil.

Screw piles- metal rods, on the pointed ends of which blades are welded. This design allows you to simply screw them into the ground, like a drill. This can be done with the help of special equipment or manually. But in the latter case, you will need at least three people.

Laying a column foundation

The columnar base is erected only on stable soils with high bearing capacity.

Work is carried out step by step:

1. Round wells are drilled along the selected perimeter in the ground.
2. A metal frame connected from reinforcement is installed in them.
3. The casing formwork is lowered into the wells.
4. Cut off above-ground elements at the same level.
5. The wells are filled with concrete and compacted.

The height of the heads (the above-ground part of the pillars) should not be less than 400 mm. Otherwise, the wood flooring will rot from constant exposure to moisture.

Slab foundation - when a considerable investment justifies itself

The slab foundation is rightfully considered the most expensive. This is due to the large bearing area, which is the main advantage of a monolithic base.

A house built on such a slab is protected from distortions, because even when exposed to frost heaving forces, it moves along with the foundation.

The technology of laying the base involves

1. Removal of the topsoil (fertile).
2. Geofabric laying, backfilling of sand and gravel cushion and its compaction.
3. Flooring waterproofing material.
4. Installation of wooden formwork.
5. Mounting and installation of a mesh connected from ribbed reinforcement.
6. Pouring concrete and its subsequent compaction with a special vibration machine.

The height of the slab base is usually 100 mm.

Lower trim of the house

If you are going to build a frame house with your own hands, you can’t do without a lower trim. It unites all the elements of the foundation, if it is columnar or pile-screw, connects the base of the house with its walls, and serves as a support for laying the floor.

For device bottom strapping use a beam of 150x200 mm or a bunch of boards placed on the end. Lumber must be pre-treated with an antiseptic and flame retardant.

They are fixed on the foundation with the help of anchor bolts with a wide nut. The connection of the beams to each other is carried out using panels or “half-tree”, “in the paw”, additionally strengthening them with nails, steel corners.

Laying and warming the subfloor

The basement beams form the basis of the subfloor. Their function is performed by bars with a cross section of 140x180 mm or boards with a size of at least 160x50 mm. The ideal option is a material with the same cross section as the elements of the lower trim.

The fastening of the floor beams is carried out “in half a tree”, making the appropriate cuts. For additional fixation, two nails are used for each junction of the bars.

Then the flooring and its insulation are performed according to the following scheme:

1. Fastening cranial bars to the bottom of the beams.
2. Fixing subfloor boards on them.
3. Waterproofing beams and flooring with dense polyethylene.
4. Laying insulation in the cells formed by the bars.
5. Installation of vapor barrier.
6. Flooring plywood, floorboard or OSB board.

Such a “pie” is ready for fine finishing at the final stage of self-construction of a frame house.

Stages of erection of the frame of walls and roof

The draft floor with its rigid base is the reference point for erecting the frame of the walls and mounting the truss system under the roof. This is one of the most time-consuming stages of building a frame house.

Installation of vertical racks for external walls

According to the existing lower strapping, markup is made for fixing the vertical racks of the frame. Their length determines the height of the ceiling on the floor minus its fine finish.

Work begins with the installation of corner elements with a cross section of at least 100x100 mm. They are fixed in two main ways:

• With the help of a wooden dowel, which should rise 80-100 mm above the corner connection of the piping. In this case, the rack is literally strung on it.
• With reinforced galvanized metal corners.

For racks on straight sections, a beam with a smaller section is suitable - 50x100 mm. Its connection with the strapping is carried out by complete, incomplete cutting or using steel corners. Here you can use fasteners without reinforcement.

When determining the pitch of the racks, be guided by the width of the insulation or wall sheathing sheet material. To prevent the vertical elements of the frame from heeling, they can be fixed with temporary jibs.

Upper frame frame and interfloor overlap

Only after fixing the racks strictly vertically and in a fixed position, they begin to work on the upper harness. All grooves and fastenings in it should be similar to those that took place in a similar lower belt. This will give the structure good spatial rigidity.

Note! The width of the beams of the upper trim should be equal to the width of the uprights.

Mounted similarly to the basement. Logs from a board 50x200 mm with a step of 600-800 mm are fastened with nails to the bars of the upper trim.

If the ceiling is not an element of the roof truss system, but the floor of the second floor, it must be further reinforced with spacers. Their function is performed by edged boards, which are lined up between the lags in one line and fixed with nails. With a span width of the second floor of 2.5-3 m, one line of spacers is sufficient. For a larger span, you will need two parallel lines.

Assembling the truss system

The truss system determines the shape of the roof of a frame house built from scratch. Most often, it is double-sided.

Suitable for rafters boards with a section of 50x150 mm or 50x200 mm. They are installed on the bars of the upper trim in increments of 0.6-1.1 m.

The rafters are also interconnected, which gives the roof appropriate rigidity and determines its bearing capacity. To do this, use the following elements:

• longitudinal runs;
• crate;
• crossbars;
• racks;
• sill;
• puff.

If the span of the second floor or attic is less than 10 m and there are no load-bearing walls in the house, except for external ones, hanging rafters can be mounted. This system involves fastening each rafter with one end to the strapping, and the other - to the counter element. Tightening in the form of a horizontal beam allows you to strengthen the structure.

Rafters appropriate where there is an intermediate support for them in the form of a load-bearing wall or a columnar element. They are reinforced with internal middle racks.

Thermal insulation of walls and roofs

Work on the insulation of walls and roofs should be proceeded only after the installation of all windows and doors.

In the right frame house, the technology for their implementation is similar and comes down to creating a “pie” consisting of several layers.

• Outer cladding. It can be fiberboard, OSB, DSP or facade board.
• Waterproofing. It is necessary to protect the insulation from moisture from the street.
• Thermal insulation material. It can be polystyrene, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral wool, etc.
• Vapor barrier. Usually, a membrane film is used to remove moisture from the room.
• Internal lining. Suitable for these purposes: plywood, OSB, drywall.

The roof is not sheathed on the outside with sheet material. His place is taken by crate, which serves as the basis for the roofing material.

Insulation of the interfloor overlap is similar to the thermal insulation of the subfloor.

Engineering systems of a frame house

Without utilities, a frame house will be a dark and cold box. For this reason, it is necessary to know where and at what stage they are laid.

• Heating pipes and water supply systems are mounted inside the frame walls. Do this before warming them up. The cold water supply pipe is placed in a corrugated moisture-resistant "sleeve", which is associated with the constant formation of condensate on it.
• Sewer pipes are mounted in the walls and under the floor. Their supply to septic tanks is provided at the stage of laying the foundation.
• Electrical cables are located inside the walls, under the false ceiling or in the channels of the skirting boards.
• Laying hidden electrical cables can only be carried out in special pipes and ducts. These works are also performed before the thermal insulation of the walls.

Video: unacceptable mistakes in construction

With a limited budget, many decide to build a house on their own. We will not dissuade you from such a decision. This is really a bold step that will require a lot of strength and knowledge from you. Well, if construction is not just a hobby for you, and you are familiar with most of the operations. But what if this is your first experience? What technology to choose for construction? Where to begin? What elements of the house require special attention? Frame structures are perfect for building a house with your own hands. We will try to figure out how to build such a frame house with our own hands, step-by-step instructions will help you with this.

This is a building whose walls are built on the basis of a wooden frame. The walls, floor and ceiling of such houses are made up of dissimilar materials, which is also called "pie" by experts.

The frame structure has many advantages, such as high energy efficiency, environmental friendliness of the construction process, low weight. But why do we recommend this particular technology in the case of building a house with our own hands?

• Firstly, if the question arose in favor of building on your own for financial reasons, then a frame house will help you save a lot of money. After all, such a building of a similar area and purpose will bypass 35-40% cheaper than a log house made of logs or timber and almost 2 times cheaper than a brick structure.
• Secondly, the low weight of the house will require a less complex foundation. Even in the case of pouring a strip foundation, you can do all the work yourself. The light weight of the house as a whole also indicates the low weight of individual structures. In the case of assembling the frame on the building site, you only need a pair of auxiliary hands to install the building under the roof.
• Thirdly, the construction of such houses will require only a standard set of tools for carpentry work: a saw, a level, a hammer, a screwdriver or a drill, a construction stapler. In the case of work with some types of finishes, an additional tool may be required, but we have already named the main set for you. The construction of a frame house does not require the involvement of heavy special equipment.
• Fourth, even without special skills, but carefully following the installation instructions for each element of the frame, you can build a reliable and comfortable home for both summer and year-round use.

Building a frame house: step by step

Before proceeding with construction, it should be mentioned that frame technology is conditionally divided into North American and Scandinavian types. At some stages of work, these types of frames are almost identical, and at some they require special attention.

The Finnish house is assembled on the basis of a timber frame. The walls are sheathed inside and outside with finishing or rough finishing materials. The wall is filled with mineral insulation.

The Canadian house is also built on a timber frame (sometimes without a frame). The key difference is the insulation used: these are polystyrene-based organic insulation. It is a mistake to say that the Canadian frame house is built only on the basis of SIP panels. This is just one of the options for the construction of such frames.

So, you can start building a frame house step by step.

Design work

First of all, you should spend time drawing up a detailed project of the future home. It is important to discuss with each of the household elements of the house, necessary for convenience and comfort. It is also necessary to draw up a project for the location of the building on your site.

Design work can be divided into several stages:

• Selection of building site.
• Choosing the destination of the future home and a preliminary calculation of the dimensions. It is necessary to decide whether it will be a country house or a place of permanent residence. It is necessary to calculate the approximate financial possibilities. In the case of building a residential building with your own hands, its turnkey cost will be from 15,000 rubles. per 1 square meter (depending on technology, number of floors and finishing options).
• Selecting a project for construction. A lot of projects of frame houses can be found on the Internet. Most developers' websites also indicate the cost of building a turnkey project. If you are satisfied with the indicated cost and the project as a whole, then you can take it into service. We do not recommend redrawing the project on your own without knowledge in the construction business. It is important to understand that the construction of a large house will require not only a facade project and building layout. Prior to construction, it is necessary to have a set of drawings for each element of the building and communications. It is important to have a project of engineering systems at home, because most of their elements are laid inside the walls, floor and ceiling even at the stage of wall construction.
• Estimate the necessary materials and search for suppliers. Continuous work on the site will require a stable supply of materials. It is better to conclude the necessary supply contracts even before the start of work. This will allow you to avoid many problems.

In addition to work with the project and the purchase of materials, we recommend that you conduct a geological survey of soils. This is necessary for the correct choice of the type of foundation. It is also important to solve problems with sewerage and water supply. The arrangement of the septic tank is often carried out before the start of other work. The water supply of a private house is often solved with the help of a well, for this it is also necessary to survey the site by specialists. You may have to move the location of the house.

So, you have in your hands a project and a clear drawing of all the elements of your home. The layout of the arrangement of your site is marked. Problems with the supply of materials were resolved. You can consider yourself ready to start work on the site.

Foundation installation

Having a detailed project and estimate for materials, you can calculate the approximate weight of your building. This is important for the correct calculation of the foundation. The foundation is one of the most important stages of work, the life of your home will depend on its reliability. Therefore, it is important to know the bearing capacity of soils. Depending on it and the total weight of the house, the required area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe support of the building is calculated. After that, it remains to choose the type of foundation: columnar, pile, tape, base on screw piles, monolithic slab. Consider the order of work on each of the options.

Column Foundation

The columnar foundation is used for one-story houses on solid ground. The basis for the grillage are concrete pillars or asbestos-cement pipes.

Work order. The site is cleared, markings are made with the help of twine and pegs at the installation sites of the pillars. Depending on the length of the column, pits are dug, on the bottom of which a sand cushion at least 15 cm thick is filled up and rammed. Next, pillars are installed with adjustment of the sand cushion to install the pillars at the same level. Now you can fill up and compact the soil around the post. A grillage for a columnar foundation is usually the lower trim of a house made of timber. Before laying the timber, a layer of waterproofing is laid on each post: roofing material or glassine.

Pile foundations

Pile foundations are conditionally divided into bored and reinforced concrete. In the case of work with factory-made reinforced concrete piles, the installation procedure does not differ from the construction of a columnar foundation.

The procedure for working with bored piles. Preparatory work also consists in clearing and marking the pile field. In places where piles are poured, pits are dug or holes are drilled with a diameter of at least 250 mm. Sand is also poured into the holes and primed. After that, formwork is assembled from edged boards, plywood or roofing material. Concrete is poured into which pre-bonded reinforcement is immersed. The ends of the reinforcement rods usually protrude above the plane of the piles for the subsequent fixing of the wooden grillage. In the case of mounting a reinforced concrete grillage, the reinforcement of the horizontal grillage is tied to these pieces of reinforcement. Formwork is also mounted under the grillage. Concrete is poured into the already connected reinforcement. A layer of waterproofing is also laid between the wooden grillage and the pile plane or between the concrete grillage and the Mauerlat.

Foundation on screw piles

The foundation on screw piles is a young technology for the construction of foundations, previously it was used only for military temporary buildings, the construction of marinas and other surface facilities. The essence of the technology lies in the screwing of special hollow pipes with blades at the end, which makes it possible to equip the foundation on any soil. There are screw piles of different diameters and lengths, which makes it possible to use them for almost any building, especially frame houses.

The procedure for working with screw piles. We carry out all the same preparation of the site and its marking. To simplify the start of screwing, pits are dug in at the pile installation sites, removing the sod. Further, with the help of a special head for fastening the levers, these levers are installed and the pile is screwed with constant control of its verticality. A metal platform is welded onto the base of the pile for ease of fixing the grillage. A grillage can serve as the lower trim of a house made of timber or metal.

Strip foundation

Strip foundation means pouring reinforced concrete tape around the entire perimeter of the house and under all supporting structures. For frame houses, a shallow foundation is usually used with a basement height of 200 mm.

Work order. After marking the foundation, they dig a trench with a width of at least 250 mm. At the bottom of the trench, sand is poured and rammed. Next, the formwork is mounted and pre-bonded reinforcement is installed, which is responsible for the bending and breaking strength of the tape. Then the concrete is poured. After the final maturation of the concrete, a layer of waterproofing is laid and the Mauerlat is laid.

slab foundation

A monolithic reinforced slab is poured under the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house. It is applied only on superdifficult floating soils.

Work order. A pit is dug according to the markup, a sand cushion is filled up. Reinforcement or a metal mesh is laid, concrete is poured with laying holes for communications.

As you have already noticed, after installing the foundation, a layer of waterproofing and the lower trim of the house are laid, which must be treated with deep penetration antiseptics.

Installation of the lower trim, floor joists and subfloor

Another feature of frame structures is the installation of the floor before the walls are erected. We have already laid the lower trim of the house from the timber on the finished foundation. Now you need to install the floor beams. For this, a bar with a section of 50x150 or 50x200 mm is used. The logs can be sawn into the lower trim beam, installed on top of the lower trim using mounting brackets, or mounted in the same plane with the lower trim (spread out) using special beam supports.

In the case of floor insulation with mineral heaters, the logs are installed in increments of 1.5-2 cm less than the overall dimensions of the heater. In the case of insulation with sheets of expanded polystyrene or extrusion - strictly a multiple of the overall size of the sheet. If the floor is covered with floor SIP panels, the step between the joists must be equal to the width of the panels, which must be joined strictly on the joist.

First, extreme lags are installed. The level of the lag itself and the plane between them is controlled. After the level is “caught”, the twine is pulled between the beginning and end of the lag and diagonally between them. Intermediate lags are installed along this twine.

After installing the log, it is necessary to install the subfloor, which serves as the basis for insulation. In the case of installation of floor panels, there is no need for a rough coating. The draft floor can be mounted on top of the log - a board or sheet material (OSB, plywood, chipboard) is laid. In this case, another row of logs is installed on top of the subfloor across the primary floor beams.

Most often, the draft floor is mounted between the floor lags. To do this, a bar with a section of 50x50 or 40x50 mm is fixed to the side surface of the log. It is floored with boards or sheet material. Regardless of the method of laying the subfloor, a vapor-permeable membrane is laid on top of it to remove dew point vapor from the thickness of the insulation (in the case of insulation with mineral heaters) or the joints are sealed when insulated with polystyrene foam.

Floor insulation and flooring

Insulation can be laid in the finished base between the lags (primary or secondary). In the case of mineral insulation, each layer is laid with a shift in the joints of the insulation to avoid cold bridges. When insulating with polystyrene, all joints are foamed. A layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of any insulation. After that, you can immediately mount the finishing or rough floor covering: solid or parquet board, plywood, chipboard, OSB, etc.

Construction and insulation of walls

Walls are a key difference between Finnish and Canadian frame building technology. Therefore, we will consider them separately.

Finnish technology

For the construction of the frame, it is very important to have a strict drawing of each of the walls of the future house. Without this, it is impossible to strictly place all the elements of the frame and trim (window and door openings, communication elements). Each post and horizontal header (reinforcement of openings) must be located in its place. All elements of the framework of load-bearing and intermediate walls are fixed to the floor and to each other with the help of mounting brackets and self-tapping screws. Installation begins with load-bearing racks, intermediate racks are installed between them in a strict plane, controlling their verticality.

After mounting the frame, the inner or outer skin is produced. There are a lot of options for this, and each has strict installation instructions. We will not consider each of them. It is only important to observe the correct "pie": outer skin - vapor-permeable membrane - frame with insulation - vapor barrier film - inner skin. Sometimes a counter-lattice with a thickness of at least 20 mm is laid between the outer skin and the membrane for better ventilation.

Canadian technology

In the case of the construction of a Canadian house based on a frame, no films are laid. Extrusion plates are mounted between the beams, all gaps and joints are carefully sealed with mounting foam.

Separately, it is worth considering the installation of SIP panels. In this case, a cranial bar is sewn onto the finished flooring in strict accordance with the drawing of the panel arrangement. The bar has a section that strictly corresponds to the groove on the underside of the panel. Mounting foam is applied to the surface of the bar and panels are installed. From one of the corners of the house, the installation of panels begins, temporarily securing them with props. The side surface of the panel is also pre-foamed for a snug fit of each element. The final fasteners are made during the installation of the upper trim and ceiling beams.

In the case of installation, ready-made walls are brought to the facility, which are mounted using lifting equipment. The walls are fixed to each other by the upper strapping and ceiling beams.

Ceiling beams and ceiling insulation

The pitch and section of the ceiling beams are selected according to the principle of floor lags. Ceiling logs are also installed according to the floor principle. The ceiling of the first floor serves as the basis for insulation. It is also important to observe the correct "pie" of insulation.

For a house with a cold attic: ground floor ceiling sheathing - vapor barrier - ceiling beams with insulation - vapor-permeable membrane - attic flooring.

For interfloor overlapping: ceiling sheathing of the first floor - vapor barrier - ceiling beams with insulation - vapor barrier - floor covering of the second floor.

Installation of rafters and roofing material

The roof is one of the most complex elements of a frame house. But if you have a detailed and clear drawing indicating the size and location of the puffs, supports and rafter legs, you can completely carry out the installation with your own hands. On the rafters, the lathing is sewn from edged boards or sheet materials, depending on the selected roofing material. Installation of the finishing roof must also be carried out in accordance with the instructions. We will not consider this technology for each roofing material.

Finishing work

After finishing work on the roof, you can start finishing. Frame houses have a high level of preparation for finishing, because often the walls inside and outside are already finished with finishing material, and most of the communication elements are already embedded in the walls.

One of the disadvantages of frame houses is the effect of a thermos. They do not have gas exchange and vapor exchange with the environment, so it is very important to mount ventilation: under the floor, in the walls and under the roofing material. You can find the rules for arranging ventilation for each type of frame on the Internet with detailed drawings of the location of each element.

Conclusion

Of course, a frame house cannot be built based only on this article. We have given you only a direction to study the issue. It will take more than one hour to sit for literature, to study the experience of those people who have traveled this path from beginning to end. But the very fact that there are such people speaks of the possibility of implementing your project.

Necessary tools and materials

Frame structures are becoming more and more in demand - this is an inexpensive and at the same time durable housing. You can build both a luxurious villa and a neat house in the countryside - there are a large number of projects. It does not matter whether you build it yourself or entrust it to specialists - the necessary knowledge will allow you to control the process at all stages.

We decide on the main thing - a warm house or a recreation area?

Frame houses are called because the whole structure of the house is vertical wooden racks and horizontal plank strapping. A light wooden frame is erected in a matter of days, even if you do the work yourself with several assistants, and specialists will cope even with a complex project even faster.

Before you build, you should clearly decide whether you will live in such a house all year round or its use will be limited to summer trips to nature. It depends on your decision how well the frame house will be insulated. If the building will be used only in the warm seasons, then the issue of serious insulation, high-quality heating and energy savings is removed by itself - the building needs standard thermal insulation measures so that in winter the temperature in the room does not fall below zero.

But if you decide to build a house for year-round use, the issue of thermal insulation should be approached very seriously, following all the rules. It is insulation that is the cornerstone of the entire frame technology, on which both the saving of resources in the future and the structure of heating depend. The conditions of the climatic zone where the house will be built are taken into account - for example, for the central climatic zone, only the thickness of the boards for sheathing the house should be at least 100 mm.

Another point that should be decided at the project stage is the number of storeys of the structure. Experts categorically recommend not to build buildings above 2 floors using frame technology, and even then, it is desirable that the second floor be attic. But you will be sure of the strength of the whole structure and its durability.

The foundation of the house is the key to longevity

Having calculated the load that will fall on the foundation, you will be pleasantly surprised - in the case of frame houses, there is absolutely no need for a deep foundation of great width. Almost any option is suitable: slabs, piles, tape base. If the choice fell on the screw or pile version, then keep in mind that then you will have to seriously insulate and finish the basement of the building. By choosing a concrete slab, you will get a foundation that is too low, which will even look unusual.

As practice shows, it is best to build a one-story frame house on a shallow strip base on a sand and gravel cushion. On inactive soils, it is enough to pour 15 cm of sand into the trench, 10 cm of gravel of the middle fraction. The width of the trench in this case is half a meter. It is important to lay reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm along the entire perimeter of the tape, which will eliminate deformation during soil heaving. Watch the video on how to make such a base.

This is just an example - in each case, the foundation should be calculated separately. The most important thing is to take into account the characteristics of the soil. If funds allow, it is always better to play it safe and make a certain margin of safety. The columnar foundation is carried out quickly enough, and most importantly, there is no need to wait until the mortar has completely hardened. For a house for an average family on a columnar foundation, you will need about 150 columns, or rather, asbestos-cement pipes, which you will turn into columns in the process.

To begin with, at a distance of up to 80 cm along the perimeter of the future building, use a drill to make indentations with a diameter of about 20 cm and a depth of at least a meter. Pipes are inserted into these holes - the space around them is covered with fine gravel and sand and compacted, as in the video. A standard cement solution is poured into the pipes - that's all the work. It is absolutely not necessary to wait until the cement hardens - the pipes will take on the first load, and after a few days your columnar foundation will be able to withstand the whole house with appliances and residents inclusive.

A screw pile foundation differs from a column foundation in that steel pipes with a screw at one end act as piles. The pipes are screwed into the ground at the same level - the main thing is not to unscrew them back if the pile went at an angle. This is the main mistake of beginners - by unscrewing the pile, you will loosen the soil, and under the weight of the house, the foundation may sag in the future.

Universal technology - we build for centuries

In fact, frame houses, subject to all technologies and regular repairs, can stand for more than two hundred years. There is real evidence of this - the world-famous Fachwerk houses, which, in fact, are also frame structures. In any case, at least two generations will receive a warm and comfortable home.

The main stages of construction are the same for all frame structures. It all starts with the construction of a frame - metal or wood. Wood is used for the frame more often, since the material is environmentally friendly and easy to use, in addition, the cost of a metal frame will be 30-40% higher. True, the metal frame is lighter, which means you can reduce the cost of the foundation.

In addition, it will be possible to use metal fasteners, which is prohibited in the case of a wooden frame. Sooner or later, the metal will start the process of decay in the wood, the joints will become less strong, the house will begin to loosen, and the structure will become dangerous for residents. There is a special fastener - wooden dowels, which exclude putrefactive processes.

The best type of wood for a frame house is oak. True, this option is not always possible, and therefore often a high-quality timber with a cross section of at least 150 mm 2 is used. The connection between the elements is carried out using the tongue and groove technology - make sure that there are no gaps between them.

Stage one - floor and walls

In frame housing construction, it is the floor that first appears. First, roofing felt is laid around the entire perimeter of the future walls and a wooden beam with a section of 150 mm 2 is laid on top - watch the video how the craftsmen do it. It is important to cover the tree with antiseptic preparations that will protect the material from decay.

The beam is fixed with anchor bolts, maintaining a step of 2 m. There should not be a skew of more than 10 mm in the corners - this is easy to check with a level.

It is very important in building a frame house to use the same materials for load-bearing structures, floors and walls - the expansion coefficient in this case will also be the same, and you will avoid possible distortions. When the beam of the lower trim is laid and fastened together, you can lay the logs for the floor. Boards with a thickness of 5 cm and a width of 15 cm are suitable for the log. The elements are fastened by cutting grooves in the beam of the lower trim. Between the lags, the distance can withstand no more than 60 cm.

Then bars of a smaller width are attached to the lags than the lags themselves. This will allow you to lay the so-called draft floor between the bars - the floor boards will be laid directly on the logs. Do not forget to treat all elements with antiseptics. For the subfloor, in order to save money, even uncut boards are used - this does not matter much.

Glassine is attached to the subfloor for high-quality vapor barrier with a stapler, after which a heater is placed between the timber - mineral wool or polystyrene. A thickness of about 10 cm is enough. It is important to lay the thermal insulation in such a way that there is no free space around the edges, as in the video. To do this, the mineral wool slabs are cut in such a way that they are several centimeters wider than the space between the lags - then it is possible to tightly close the entire space. In the case of foam, the slots will be correctly blown out with mounting foam. The ceiling is also insulated using the same technology.

Then a finishing floor is laid - boards 40 * 150 mm are suitable for this. The boards are properly sealed with wedges and staples and nailed to the joists. Check with a level how even the floor turned out - the quality of the entire further construction depends on it.

The step-by-step assembly of the wall frame is as follows:

How to make a floor and walls in a frame house - a step by step diagram

Step 1: Bottom harness

For the lower strapping, we use the same beam with a section of 150 mm 2 with pre-prepared grooves. It is important that there is a distance of no more than 50 cm between the grooves.

Step 2: Preparing the boards

On a flat and dry area, prepare boards for the walls. The length of the boards should be equal to the desired ceiling height - experts recognize 2.7 m as the best option. This is enough so that the room does not feel cramped, and it is not stuffy in summer, and at the same time it will not be difficult to heat the house in winter.

Step 3: Installing the Corner Posts

In those places where the corner posts will be located, steel dowels are first placed, and holes for them are drilled in the end part of the bars. The bars are installed and fixed with temporary jibs. In the same way, intermediate bars are installed.

Step 4: Top harness

The upper harness is made from the same beam with grooves as for the lower one. The most important thing is to adjust the location of the grooves so that they are completely identical with the bottom ones. Otherwise, there will be distortions. When the upper trim is laid on the racks, it should be fixed to each rack with at least a couple of nails, hammering them to a depth of at least 10 cm. After that, the frame is strengthened with permanent cuts, and the temporary ones are dismantled.

Step 5: Ceiling

In places where there will be interior partitions, support bars are installed. Ceiling beams are made of timber 50 * 15, place them at a distance of no more than half a meter, at the junction with vertical racks. The beams are fastened both with steel brackets and with the help of pre-cut grooves.

Step 6: Window openings

Installation of window frames occurs at the stage of erection of the wall frame. In accordance with the norms, the area of ​​the window opening should be at least 18% of the total area of ​​the wall. The frame is fixed with vertical posts adjusted in height. If you are building a house exclusively for summer use, then double-glazed windows with one glass are also suitable, but for living all year round you will need high-quality windows with at least two glasses - it all depends on the climate.

Of course, all this work can be reduced significantly by using ready-made sandwich panels. Now many factories offer their services in this direction - you just have to choose a house project and prepare the foundation. Assembling a house from sandwich panels is like playing Lego, you just need to connect the elements into a single structure. From the point of view of economy, this option is the most profitable, since the sandwich panels are very light and insulated, which means you will save on foundation and insulation, not to mention the time that you would spend on these works.

Under the roof of my house - how to build a roof?

The more difficult you have chosen the project of a frame house, the less likely it is that you can handle the construction of the roof yourself. If the second floor is attic, it is better to contact specialists who will correctly calculate the entire rafter system. But with a simple gable roof you can handle it.

For rafters, a beam of 5 * 15 cm is chosen. The edges of the beams are joined at the end at an angle of 50 ° and knocked down with nails. This simple design is fastened with a board across, the letter "A". It is easier to assemble the rafters on the ground, and only then raise them to the roof and fasten them with 200 mm nails. Lathing boards are attached to the rafters in increments of 10 cm. It is necessary that they go beyond the extreme rafters by 25 cm. Roofing material is laid on the batten, after which you can proceed with the installation of the roofing material.

This is the simplest version of the roof, which can be supplemented with high-quality thermal insulation. As you know, a house loses up to 20% of heat through the attic! Insulate correctly from the outside - this way you save space inside, and it’s easier to carry out work. A vapor barrier is laid on top of the crate, for example, glassine, which is familiar to everyone, which is fixed with a stapler. Another light crate is stuffed over the vapor barrier - in increments of 50-60 cm.

Heat-insulating material, for example, mineral wool, is laid in the space between the crate. Then the vapor barrier is laid again, a layer of roofing material is added and the roofing material is mounted. It is important that a gap of several centimeters is maintained between the roofing material and roofing materials - in this case, the space under the roof will be ventilated, and condensate can easily leave the heat-insulating cake.

Home decoration and insulation - the finish line is near

It is most convenient to insulate a house built using frame technology from the inside. Therefore, first of all, the structure is sheathed from the outside with OSB boards, and then with siding or clapboard. After that you can go to .

Styrofoam and mineral wool are eternal competitors among thermal insulation materials. But still, foam plastic has a lower thermal conductivity - 40 mm of foam plastic is equal to 45 mm of mineral wool in terms of thermal insulation. A 10 cm layer can replace a brick wall two meters thick! The most important advantage of this material is its waterproofness, which mineral wool cannot boast of. If it gets wet, it will lose its properties.

The insulation is laid between the vertical posts - as mentioned above, the materials should fit snugly against each other. Do not spare the mounting foam to blow out the cracks. At this stage, do not forget to lay the wiring. You can read more about the choice and the technology itself in a separate article on our website.

The most proven option for lining inside is wooden lining. However, if you want to act in a more original way, you can purchase a block house - a lining that imitates a rounded log. If the wood paneling does not suit you, you can seal the walls inside with OSB boards, then with drywall, which remains only to be puttied. After that, you can paint the walls or glue the wallpaper - whatever your heart desires.

The construction of a frame house allows you to quickly solve the housing problem, save on materials and do the work yourself. Assembly takes only 2-3 months, and wood costs are almost halved (compared to timber buildings). You can build a frame without serious experience in construction - step-by-step instructions will help you with this.

There are several technologies for building a frame house: Canadian, Finnish, German, using a wooden or metal base. But in any case, the design includes the following elements:

• top and ;
• vertical racks;
• rafter system;
• heat and sound insulating layer;
• interior and exterior cladding.

Wall thickness depends from the region of construction and purpose of the house- for temporary or seasonal residence. The set of materials is standard: wooden beams, boards, OSB panels, moisture-resistant plywood, insulation, fasteners. Specialized tools are not required, but sometimes a technician may be needed to install large-sized elements.

Preparation for construction

The basis of a frame house is wood materials, which excess moisture damages. It is important to choose the right building site - dry, without wetlands, not flooded during rain. It is necessary to pre-level the ground, remove debris, prepare a passage for trucks.

The second stage is development. This task is best left to professionals who take into account existing building codes, coordinate documents in licensing authorities. If skills allow, you can take a typical project and adapt it to your own needs. The main thing is not to forget about engineering communications and take into account the recommended dimensions of the house.

Important! To quickly build a frame house, be sure to draw up an estimate and describe all the stages of the work. You can take the following step-by-step instructions as a basis.

Stages of building a frame

Wooden structures are subject to biological destruction, unstable to fire. To solve this problem, apply flame retardants and bioprotective compounds. It is most convenient to use a complex remedy that protects against fire, woodworms and decay. Impregnation treatment is necessary at every stage of the construction of a frame house.

Foundation device

The skeleton weighs much less than a timber or brick house, so a lightweight foundation is enough for it.

The most popular option is tape. For its arrangement, they dig a trench according to the marking of the future house, install a wooden formwork in it, fill it with concrete mortar, and tamp the mixture. For tamping, use hand tools or special vibrators.

In second place is - bored or screw. In the first case, the piles are driven into pre-drilled holes, in the second, they are screwed in manually or using special equipment. Above them, a grillage is arranged in the form of a tape. 200-400 mm thick and 200-300 mm high. It binds the piles into a single whole, increasing the strength of the structure. When arranging a pile foundation, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the soil and strictly observe the technology. Otherwise, the soil will swell and loosen the piles.

slab foundation- a great option for those who decide to build a frame house with their own hands. A slab poured from concrete compensates for the seasonal expansion of the soil. The recommended height is 250-500 mm. Most practical insulated Swedish plate (UShP), consisting of several layers:

• compacted sand bedding;
• rigid foam 200 mm thick;
• reinforced concrete mixture;
• underfloor heating pipes;
• leveling screed.

UWB combines foundation, monolithic floor and heating system. But such a foundation requires large financial investments.

One of the most accessible foundations - columnar. It is a small posts, installed on the ground or buried in it. The columnar foundation is easy to do with your own hands, but due to its low reliability, it is only suitable for domestic buildings.

Subfloor device

There are two types of wooden subfloor:

• load-bearing structure used in combination with a strip or pile foundation;
• the lattice structure is used in tandem with a slab or concrete screed.

In the first case, the horizontal level is observed at the stage of arranging the base or grillage, in the second - at the stage of pouring the base.

Subfloor laying technology looks like a wall plan. First, a supporting base is installed - logs and crossbars. If necessary, the lags are overlapped. To strengthen the structure, additional spacers are used. At the same stage, engineering structures are laid: water supply, gas pipeline and sewerage.

Frame erection

Frames of prefabricated houses are metal and wooden. If you have no experience in building, it is better to order a factory kit ready for installation. Otherwise, it is necessary to comply with assembly technology. There are two options:

• collect all elements at the installation site;
• gradually assemble the walls on a horizontal surface and install them in place.

The second method is more convenient and productive - especially for metal frames. To assemble the latter, a welding machine is used.

The construction of the frame takes place in several stages:

1. Bottom harness. The size of its cross section depends on the type of foundation. The harness is placed above the ground mark, carefully treated with antiseptics and waterproofed.
2. frame for each wall. The step of the racks is 60 cm with plank sheathing and 62.5 cm with shield sheathing. The latter exactly corresponds to the standard dimensions of the OSB board. During the installation phase, temporary braces are often installed. The maximum load falls on the corners, so the most durable materials are used for their production.
3. Upper harness. The choice of material depends on the load that the structural element will carry. With high strength, the metal requires a large number of drillings and is expensive. More convenient to use wooden beam, single or double boards. Their thickness depends on the area of ​​the house.
4. Cover beams. When building a frame house, reinforced concrete floors are not used - they weigh too much. Best suited for this purpose boards 50*200 mm in size or paired boards 50*150 mm in size. The pitch varies from 40 to 60 cm. Internal partitions. They can be plank (one- or two-layer), frame-sheathed with or without insulation. Dry lumber, plywood, chipboard, drywall, OSB are suitable for the construction of partitions.

Several technologies are used to connect wooden elements: 90° joint, 45° cut joint, half-timber joint, tongue and groove joints.

Roof arrangement

The construction of the roof is one of the most important stages in the construction of a frame house. It is necessary to determine in advance its type, type of truss system, sheathing material. A gable roof is well suited for a frame with a slope of not less than 28 and not more than 50 degrees.

For the truss system you will need boards section 50*150 or 50*200 mm- dimensions depend on the design load and the insulation used. The standard step is 60 cm. Two boards are connected on the ground, the finished structure is lifted to the roof and mounted on the top trim with an overhang of 35-70 cm. To make the roof even, the rafters are installed first on the gables, and then in the middle. The final stage is the installation of a thinned or continuous crate, on top of which the roofing material is fixed.

Insulation and sheathing of the frame

The finished frame is treated with antiseptics, dried well and sheathed with OSB boards. The resulting cells are filled with insulation - mineral wool or polystyrene foam. The thickness of the layer depends on the purpose of the house - at least 15-20 cm is required for permanent residence. The wall cake looks like this:

• wind waterproofing;
• outer skin - plates;
• insulation;
• vapor barrier;
• inner lining made of GKL or OSB + GKL.

For outdoor decoration use siding, wood or fiber cement panels, plaster, decorative bricks.

Interior decoration

This is the finishing frame house. Lightweight walls do not shrink, so you can immediately start finishing. It goes through several stages:

• Final arrangement of the floor. Mount first wooden base from boards with a section of 50-150 mm- their ends are laid on the support bars or on the foundation. The lower part of the lag is covered with hydroprotection, followed by insulation, vapor barrier, boards or OSB. Floor covering - linoleum, laminate or parquet.
• Ceiling lining. The crate is attached to the support bars, they are laid in the formed sections vapor barrier and insulation. The layers are covered with drywall or other slab material.

If you follow the construction technology, a frame house will serve you for many years. The main thing is to choose the right project that meets the climatic conditions of the region and regulatory requirements.