Frame houses - frame wall structures. We do the walls of a frame house correctly.

The walls of a frame house are a multi-layer structure, the features of which are fully known only to professionals. However, a home craftsman will be able to master such technology in order to carry out work without outside professional help.

The device of frame walls

The structure of the walls of a frame house provides for several layers. This technology, by which such construction is carried out, has found its widespread, today it has become clear even to a private developer. It is important to decide before starting work which materials to use, as well as in what sequence to arrange them. In this case, one cannot do without a frame, because it was this scheme that gave the name to the technology.

You will need a vapor barrier, lathing, finishing materials, OSB, mineral insulation, which may look like mats. With these materials, you can create the right "pie" from them. The formation of a multi-layer wall begins with the construction of a frame, which is made of timber. A layer of thermal insulation should be placed between the racks, and then move towards the facade. There will be a 15 mm oriented strand board, and then vertical and horizontal battens, between which the membrane is located. The last is the decorative material. The membrane will act as a windscreen. The construction of the walls inside will be somewhat easier, for this you need to use a vapor barrier and cladding.

For reference

In order to exclude stagnation of air inside the premises, it will be necessary to install forced ventilation. After all, oriented strand board is a material that does not allow air to pass through well.

If you will be installing the walls of a frame house, then it is important at the first stage to determine whether there will be a residential building in the cold season or it is supposed to be used as a summer residence. This affects. If we are talking about a summer suburban building, then you can save on racks that will have a smaller section. But with a house for year-round living, the situation is different. In addition, for a country house, you can use cheaper finishing materials, because not so serious requirements are imposed on the appearance of the building.

When the walls of a frame house are installed, of course, heat and vapor insulation is also selected. In this case, a lot depends on the region where you are going to carry out the construction. If we are talking about the northern part of the country, then the emphasis should be on energy saving, the structure should have two layers of insulation. However, if the window is hot and humid for most of the year, then you should additionally use a vapor barrier that fits on the outside of the insulation, while for cold regions such a "pie" scheme is contraindicated.

Description of frame walls: pros and cons

The construction of the walls of a frame house with your own hands may well be carried out. But before that, it is recommended to consider all the pros and cons of such buildings. The main advantage is speed, because the house can be assembled in a few months, which ensures that there is no shrinkage, which in other cases requires waiting for the moment until the walls take their final position. Among other things, the above method is relatively inexpensive.

Thanks to modern materials, it is possible to realize any daring fantasy in a few months, and the house will turn out to be durable and reliable. But you should pay attention to the weak points. Undoubtedly, today there are many tools that are used to improve the quality of fire safety of materials. But with all this, insects and rodents can still start in the wood. Therefore, before starting construction, it is necessary to take measures to combat these pests.

Erection of frame walls

The structure of the frame house was described above, now you can go to the practical part of the question. At the first stage, preparation is carried out, while it is necessary to determine the amount of building material. It is important to prepare certain tools, among them:

• drill;
• plumb line;
• building ruler;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• level;
• square;
• scissors for metal;
• jigsaw.

Among other things, do not forget about the purchase of antiseptic agents, with the help of which wooden elements are processed in order to give them fire resistance and protect them from pests. The thickness of the walls will depend on the purpose of the building; this parameter is influenced by the section of the racks. Therefore, the support area must be 50 cm 2. First you need to install the bottom piping, which is laid on the waterproofing layer of the foundation. After that, lags are installed in the grooves. All corners must be right, among other things, elements are aligned horizontally. To simplify the work, it should be maintained which will be equivalent to the thickness of the thermal insulation. All elements are treated with antiseptic agents. After that, you can start installing the corner posts. They are fixed with the upper strapping, only after the master can mount the intermediate beams. Experts advise at each stage to check whether the vertical and horizontal lines are observed, because the final result will depend on this.

Work on the corners, overlap. Finishing

The device of the walls of a frame house in detail, which is described in the article, will allow you to eliminate errors. Thus, the next step will be the processing of corners, which include window and door openings. Fixation is carried out with metal corners, which are reinforced with screws. At the next stage, the floor joists are mounted, the technology will be similar to that used when laying floor elements. However, in this case, their length should be slightly larger. The racks are fixed with jibs.

It was mentioned above that the frame walls have a mineral wool-type insulation. However, you can choose any suitable thermal insulation. If you want your home to be warm enough even in a frosty winter, a layer of thermal insulation must be reinforced between the frame posts. At the next stage, waterproofing is laid, while it is necessary to ensure that each subsequent layer overlaps the previous one. Laying is done from bottom to top. Experts recommend filling thin bars on top, with the help of which a ventilation gap is formed. At the final stage, external finishing materials are laid.

Internal work

The walls of a frame house, the device and the main elements of which are described in the article, must also be finished from the inside. In this case, fewer layers are used, only vapor barrier and finishing material need to be applied. The latter can be chipboard or plywood, and, if desired, drywall. If the premises are planned to be made residential, then you should pay attention to the environmental friendliness of the topcoat. If it contains harmful substances, it can have a negative impact on human health. For example, some types of chipboard are unsuitable for such use.

Internal wall arrangement

The construction of the inner walls of a frame house can be carried out using bars, the cross-section of which can be equal to 40x60 or 30x50 mm. The frame can be assembled with screws or nails; fastening plates are used less often. The frame wall can be made from a conventional drywall profile. You can create a frame with stiffeners, sheet material is sewn on top of it.

Construction of frame houses

The device of a frame house from foundation to roof provides for the creation at the first stage of a cheap foundation (possibly a strip foundation). Fastening the building to the foundation can be carried out with bolts, crutches with ligaments-anchors or a wedge. The construction of load-bearing walls was described above, but after the completion of this stage, you can take up the roof. For this, they are used with a square section, the side of which is 150 mm. Permanent wind ties are installed in the corners, flush with the struts. A board with a section of 150x50 mm is laid on them. The roof frame is reinforced with ties, the pitch between the rafters should be equal to twice the distance between the frame posts.

The walls of a frame house are erected like a constructor. They consist of several layers of different materials, each of which fulfills a different function. Erecting a wall of a frame house with your own hands does not require a lot of construction experience. It is necessary to be able to work with a saw, a hammer, a level, screw in screws, cut insulation, mount and adjust wall cladding panels.

In addition, work on the construction of frame walls is not associated with the so-called "wet" processes, mixing adhesive mixtures or concrete. Therefore, they can be performed at any outdoor temperature, build your own frame house at any time of the year. How should a frame wall be arranged? Where to start work and what is important to know so that the frame house turns out to be reliable and warm?

Installation of the power frame

The construction of the wall of a frame house begins with the construction of the frame. This is the basis on which all other components of the wall will be attached - insulation, vapor barrier, wind protection, external and internal wall cladding. Like any support or skeleton, the frame must be reliable and strong enough. Therefore, the main requirement that is placed on the frame load-bearing structure is the correct selection of the dimensions of the bearing racks and beams, the correct determination of their cross-section, as well as reliable fastening to each other.

Frame frame box.

Racks are vertical frame elements. Horizontal structural elements are called beams. Connecting elements - jibs. Uprights and horizontal beams support the weight of the house. Jibs - ensure the reliability of the connection of vertical and horizontal elements of the frame house. How to mount uprights, beams and jibs?

The installation of the frame is carried out on the finished foundation. Foundation pouring is the only construction operation that uses a “wet” process. Therefore, for winter construction, the foundation of a frame house is built in advance. If they are building in the summer, then they wait a week after the end of the pouring, and proceed to the further assembly of the frame house. Frame walls are relatively "lightweight", so for their construction there is no need to wait a month until the concrete has fully set its structural strength.

Correct walls

• The bed is mounted on a concrete foundation with waterproofing.
• In a horizontal position, the walls of the frame house are assembled.
• Lay out the vertical bearing racks.
• The vertical racks are fastened with nails with the upper and lower strapping.
• Cut into the diagonal of the jibs between the uprights and the lower harness.
• A crossbar is cut into all the racks under the upper harness.
• The walls of the frame house are raised and fastened together.
• Tie the inner and outer walls with the second upper strapping.
• Floor beams are mounted on top of the strapping.

Frame house wall

The outer walls of the frame house must provide high-quality thermal insulation of the inner living space. Therefore, we will consider what the wall of a frame house consists of, the wall device consists of insulation, which limits heat loss. The layer of insulating material of the frame house must be sufficient to retain heat even in the most severe frosts.

As a rule, porous materials are used as insulation, which in themselves are short-lived. For their long-term use, protection from atmospheric moisture, rain, dew, internal steam, soil moisture, as well as from mechanical action (impacts, punctures, crushing, compression, etc.) is necessary. In addition, some heaters require wind protection.

In connection with the need to protect the insulating material, the wall of the frame house in the section is equipped with several layers, namely:

• From the outside, the wall heat insulator is covered with a protective membrane. The membrane is a special film that limits the penetration of moisture from the outside, but is capable of letting it through. Thus, the material of the heat insulator is protected from dampness. Such protection is especially necessary for cotton wool insulation, mineral wool, glass wool.
• From the inside, the heat insulator is protected from moisture using a vapor barrier film.

On a note

When damp, building mineral wool loses its heat-saving properties.

• As for foam insulation, moisture protection for them is the key to durability. When freezing, the raw foam breaks down, becomes covered with cracks, and turns into crumbs in two winter seasons.
• Wall cladding is hung on both sides of the closed insulation. This material protects the heat-insulating layer from mechanical destruction - shock, compression, as well as from the wind. In addition, sheathing forms the surface of the inner and outer walls and is a decoration.

The outer and inner sides work at different temperatures, therefore, different materials are used for the production of cladding boards. Requirements of moisture and wind resistance are imposed on panels for external cladding. To internal panels - environmental friendliness and decorativeness.

The following are used as external wall panels:

• Metal profile.
• Plastic siding.
• You can use a tree - clapboard or block house.
• Use OSB boards (OSB). In this case, additional protection of their surface from moisture will be needed. The walls of a frame house made of OSB require subsequent painting and plastering.

The correct walls of a frame house have at least 4 layers - outer and inner cladding, heat insulator and vapor barrier. They are arranged in a certain order, which protects the interior space of a residential building from precipitation and cold at any time of the year.

Internal walls

Internal walls in a frame house must provide good sound insulation. Therefore, a soundproofing layer is placed in the middle of the wall. What is the difference between heat and sound insulation materials?

Often the same insulator can limit heat loss and stop sound propagation. For example, mineral basalt wool is the basis for the manufacture of heat-insulating and sound-insulating boards. These slabs are the same in structure and differ in trade characteristics. Sound absorption boards and mats have a decibel characteristic, while insulation mats provide a thermal conductivity characteristic.

Unlike exterior walls, interior walls are often sheathed on both sides with the same material. Both sides of the wall are located inside the house, therefore the same requirements are imposed on them - to form the basis for further interior decoration, not to create harmful fumes, to decorate the interior space. Wall panels are used as internal wall cladding:

• Drywall - common for living quarters and moisture resistant for the bathroom.
• Plywood can be used in various thicknesses.
• OSB is best used in non-residential areas.

Frame house walls

The way the insulation is laid is determined by its shape. If it is compressible mineral wool, then it is laid between the supports of the frame without additional fastening. Mats or slabs are slightly squeezed, after which they are placed between the supports.

Styrofoam or expanded polystyrene

Styrofoam or foamed plastic, expanded polystyrene. The listed terms are different designations of the same material, which is airtight, blocks natural air exchange, makes it necessary to arrange supply and exhaust ventilation.

Despite its low environmental friendliness, foam is very popular as a frame insulation, since it is the most budgetary and affordable insulating material.

Rigid foam boards are incompressible. Therefore, when laying the slabs, they are shortened to the size of the distance between the frame supports, and then the cracks between the foam and the support are blown out with polyurethane foam.

Polyurethane foam or polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam or polyurethane foam is also an absolutely impermeable, waterproof insulating material. It differs in that it creates a seamless, even coating on which further interior decoration can be carried out. Polyurethane foam application requires the work of expensive equipment and specialists, which affects the cost of construction. Therefore, this insulation option is rarely used in budget frame construction.

If PPU spraying is used, then at first the frame is sheathed with external panels, then - the distance between the frame supports is blown out by PPU, and then - on the finished flat surface of the insulation, internal wall finishing is performed.

Vapor barrier membrane

A frame house provides for the presence of a vapor barrier layer - a special membrane that looks like polyethylene, but differs from it in physical properties. The membrane is a porous material in which the shape of the pores allows vapor molecules to pass in one direction and not in the other. Thus, the membrane restricts the movement of wet steam on one side only.

On a note

The membrane fabric is placed on the outside of the insulation in order to limit the ingress of moisture into the pores of the insulating material.

Windscreen

The windscreen material is a layer that is not blown by the wind. The best wind protection for the walls of a frame house is the outer wall cladding and vapor barrier membrane. As a panel external wind protection, plastic siding, DSP, block house are used.

These materials also function as waterproofing agents. They protect the inner layers of the wall "cake" from getting wet during rain or snow. In the correct construction of the wall, there must be a ventilation space under the outer cladding. It looks like a gap, which will provide free air movement and moisture removal.

It's no secret that any house consists of several basic elements - the foundation, walls, floors and, of course, the roof. All of these elements are equally important, and each of them needs to be given a lot of attention during the construction process. Continuing the theme of building a frame house with our own hands, in this article we will deal with the question of how to build the walls of a frame house? Together with the site, we will deal with two technologies for their construction and study in detail the structure of the walls.

Do-it-yourself frame house walls photo

Frame house walls: device and basic elements

The wall of a frame house is a combination of various building materials combined into one block. Some of them provide rigidity, others provide protection from the wind, and still others help keep the house warm. All of them are very important and are by no means superfluous - this means that throwing away any one element, saving money, as some kulibins do, is tantamount to shortening the service life of the building as a whole. With this, I think, everything is clear, and now is the time to study the question, what are these important elements and what are they intended for. Let's start in order.

1. Frame. This is the foundation of the walls, which is completely responsible for their shape, size, rigidity and the ability of the house to withstand loads. The frame of the walls is made either from special metal profiles, or from a wooden bar with a cross section of at least 100 by 50 mm - this is when we talk about the thickness of the outer walls of the frame house. Internal walls, if they are not load-bearing, are made somewhat thinner, although this should not be done for purposes.
2. Internal cladding. This is a plate (OSB-3, as a rule) - it is screwed onto the frame using self-tapping screws. With a serious approach to business, it is also glued with a special glue.
3. Vapor barrier. Installed on the inside of the wall under the OSB - its task is to dosed supply of moisture vapor contained in the air into the wall. It allows just enough moisture to pass through so that it does not get wet and does not lose its qualities, and at the same time has time to bring it out.

   

   Construction of the walls of a frame house photo

4. Insulation for walls. In most cases, it is mineral wool, or to be more precise, a basalt slab. If we are talking about factory sip panels, then they are insulated with polyurethane foam sealant.
5. Wind protection. It has a double purpose - from the outside, it creates a wind-proof barrier (hence the name), and from the inside it releases excess vapors that accumulate in the heat-insulating material.
6. Outer cladding. Again OSB, which, as in the case of the inner lining, is screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws and is additionally attached with glue. By the way, both for external and internal cladding, in most cases OSB is used with a thickness of 12mm.
7. Facade. In most cases, this is, but sometimes in the process of finishing frame structures, and is used, which is somewhat cheaper, but it is more difficult in terms of labor costs.

   

   Pie walls of a frame house photo

In principle, this is all - this is how the so-called pie of the wall of a frame house looks from the side. The only thing that can still be added here is to clarify the point that the ventilated facade must be compiled onto the crate without fail - that is why it is ventilated so that the space behind it is ventilated.

Frame house wall structure: assembly sequence

Again, despite the two different technologies for building a frame house, the assembly of walls is carried out in almost the same way. The only difference is that using ready-made panels, you will bypass a lot of different stages of work. But if you decide to assemble these panels yourself, then assembling them will look almost exactly the same as building a regular frame house. You will have to carry out the following stages of work.

1. Assembling wall frames. As a rule, each separately taken wall of the house is one or two parts of the frame - so to speak, segments that are assembled separately. In fact, these are rectangles assembled from a wooden bar, inside which there are vertical stiffeners, installed with a step of 625 mm in the centers - this is half the width of the OSB sheet. If the timber allows (its length), then it is better to make the frame in the entire width of the wall. If not, then you can divide it into parts. By the way, if we are talking about a two-story structure, then the step of the stiffeners is better to be reduced to 316.5 mm. It is better to prepare such frames right away, so that after assembly they completely form the outer walls of the house.
2. Installation of frames on. Let's start right away with the fact that the top of the foundation needs to be qualitatively - treated with bituminous mastic and pasted over with roofing material in a couple of layers. Then everything is simple, but, nevertheless, you need the help of reliable and strong male hands. At the same time, you will have to lift and hold two frames at once (angular) - while several people are holding them, one must twist them together. After the fastening is done, the frames can be released and installed over. Substituting the blocks (if necessary), the frame, clearly installed in the level, is attached to the foundation with anchor bolts. In this way, all the frames are mounted into a single whole product, namely the walls of the frame house with their own hands.

   

   Walls of a frame house photo

3. Further, work on the manufacture of walls, as a rule, is postponed until the moment it is assembled - in most cases, the frame of the house is assembled completely, but there are exceptions. In general, at the next stage of work, the construction of the walls of a frame house involves cladding them from the inside. Everything is simple here - the OSB is cut with a jigsaw to a given size and is simply screwed to the frame, which is previously covered with a vapor barrier film using a stapler. It is quite possible to cope with this work even for one person, and, as a rule, it does not cause difficulties.
4. Now we move outside and put insulation between the frame beam. This is also an elementary work that you can easily cope with on your own. We cut the insulation to size and push it inside the wall. We do not press strongly, since it is not cotton wool that keeps the heat in the house, but the air that is between its fibers.
5. And then we stretch the windproof film with a stapler and sheathe the frame of the OSB house.

   

   Correct wall of a frame house photo

In principle, everything, the correct wall of the frame house is ready, and there is not so much left to add - in particular, to remind about. As a standard, it is laid inside the walls and this is done before they are insulated and sheathed on the second side. Do not forget about this moment, since later it will be very difficult to hold out, if not to say that it is impossible.

This is how the walls of a frame house are made. Naturally, there may be some variation, but overall, their layer cake remains the same. Speaking of variations, I mean changing the sequence of work - for example, you can first make the outer cladding of the house, and then go inside the room and not suffer from wind and bad weather. It will even be more logical and more convenient to carry out internal communications.

The principles laid down in the technology of construction of frame houses determine the specifics of all its structural elements. Speaking of the inner walls, one cannot but pay attention to their similarity to the outer walls. Both in design and in materials used. Naturally, the functions of the inner and outer walls differ from each other, moreover, there are differences among the inner walls themselves. And all this affects their design features.

The main purpose of the walls inside a frame house is to divide it into zones, that is, premises. This function is performed by all walls, without exception. Other functions, depending on the idea of ​​the architect or designer, the walls are implemented in a differentiated manner. Therefore, different types of interior walls can be distinguished.

1. Blank walls or walls with openings. A blank wall is the easiest to manufacture. But in view of the fact that such walls usually separate rooms with a high degree of insulation, they must have increased noise protection. On walls with openings, windows or doors are usually placed. The opening violates the integrity of the wall structure and requires additional measures to strengthen its rigidity. At the same time, since an internal door or window between rooms rarely has high sound insulation, it makes no sense to place high demands on this indicator on the wall.
2. Free and loaded walls. They differ in that various pieces of furniture and household appliances will be hung on the latter. For example, it can be the top of a kitchen unit or a heavy TV. The loaded walls are reinforced even at the stage of the frame construction. In addition, in the places where any objects are supposed to be attached to them, pads are installed in advance. This is necessary so that nails or screws do not fall into the void.
3. Bearing walls and partitions. This is probably the most significant difference between the interior walls. Load-bearing walls are, in fact, the inner part of the overall frame of the house. They form a single structure and provide it with the required rigidity. The purpose of the partitions is to easily define the premises inside the house. There are no special design requirements for them.

Installation of load-bearing walls

The location of the load-bearing walls, in contrast to partitions, should be planned at the design stage of a frame house. After all, too many factors are linked to their location, and also have an impact on it. Firstly, the load from the roof, ceilings, the own weight of the walls and furnishings of the frame house is distributed along its outer walls to the foundation. And the four outer walls are far from always able to cope with this task satisfactorily.

Secondly, the presence of intermediate supports, which are load-bearing walls, makes it possible to more efficiently and economically use the existing building materials.

For example, floor beams and floor joists have a certain deflection under load, proportional to the span length and inversely proportional to their thickness.

So, in most cases it is economically more profitable to arrange additional supports under the beams than to use thicker boards or beams. Usually used for the floor of the second floor (they are also the floor beams of the first floor) boards measuring 200X50 mm limit the maximum span to 4 meters. If the size of the room is larger, then there is a need for additional support, which is the load-bearing wall. A load-bearing wall cannot simply "hang in the air" on the second floor. Along it, on the first floor, it is necessary to install the same load-bearing wall, resting it on its own foundation. Hence follows the third factor, namely the need to design and build a foundation for the load-bearing walls of a frame house.

For the manufacture of the frame of the load-bearing walls, the same materials are usually used as for the frame of the external walls. If these are boards, then with a section of 200x50 mm. If the timber, then with a section of 200x80 or 250x100 mm. Vertical racks are installed on the first crown of the lower strapping. Walls are sheathed with almost any sheet material: plasterboard, fiberboard, OSB, plywood, chipboard, as well as tongue-and-groove boards or slats. Sound-absorbing material is placed inside the wall, usually acoustic mineral wool is used in this capacity. For better sound insulation, it is recommended to arrange a so-called acoustic sandwich. It consists of alternating layers of plasterboard and acoustic mineral wool with a thickness of at least 80 mm. For a tangible effect, there should be 4-5 such layers. Of course, thickening the wall will reduce the useful area of ​​the room, but it will significantly increase the comfort of living in it.

Partitions

This type of interior walls is distinguished by the fact that it does not bear any significant load, except for its own weight. And also, possibly, pieces of furniture or other inventory. Therefore, to install partitions, you do not need to arrange your own foundation. The load-bearing capacity of the floor is usually sufficient to mount partitions directly on it or on joists. In the event that the wall falls between the logs, it is advisable to arrange additional jumpers perpendicular to the boards or timber from which the floor logs are made.

It is recommended to assemble interior partitions in a frame house from a board with a section of 100x50 mm. Or even already, if you are going to arrange the acoustic sandwich mentioned above. In this case, your wall thickness can grow up to 400 mm with a four-layer sound insulation. The distance between the vertical posts of internal walls (partitions) usually corresponds to the standard size of a sheet of mineral wool and is 1.2 m. Otherwise, the installation of interior partitions is carried out in the same way as for internal load-bearing walls.

Loadable walls

Free walls are assembled "monotonously", that is, by uniform repetition of the same building elements, both horizontally and vertically. Loaded, that is, intended for attaching heavy objects to them, the walls are more complex. In those places where it is supposed to place fasteners (dowels, brackets, etc.), supports from boards of the same standard size that were used to mount the frame itself are additionally installed between the vertical posts of the frame. And he, in turn, is reinforced by jibs that prevent the walls from bending from lateral loads.
If sound-reproducing equipment will be installed on such walls, damping of fasteners with special gaskets, washers or sound-absorbing compounds should be provided. Otherwise, the inner wall of your frame house can turn into a sound amplifier, which is unlikely to please those in the next room.

Features of walls with openings

The inner walls of a frame house are either deaf or with openings. And if during the installation of a blank wall usually no difficulties arise, then the device of window or door openings requires taking into account certain points. First, the wall of a frame house is formed by a series of vertical posts installed at equal distances from each other. And the insertion of any opening violates this integrity, which requires additional reinforcement of the structure. Secondly, the rupture of the uprights causes a weakening of that part of the frame that is located above the opening. To replace the missing vertical supports, various load distribution options are used, for example, the installation of crossbars, that is, additional horizontal strapping boards. Thirdly, due to the fact that vertical posts are installed periodically, the location of the openings should be chosen so as to minimize the integrity of the structure. Ideally, the opening should have a width that is a multiple of the spacing of the posts. If this is difficult to achieve, the opening should at least start from the rack (or end at it).

Doors or windows are a weak point in sound insulation. Especially interior doors and decorative windows. Thin single doors are an excellent conductor of any noise, especially low frequency noise. The same is the case for windows, unless they consist of a double-glazed unit with a thickness of more than 40 mm. Therefore, there is hardly any sense in serious soundproofing of the inner wall with openings.

A few general questions

Often, future owners of frame houses, which they are going to build with their own hands, wonder about the need for vapor barrier and thermal insulation of internal walls. We believe that thermal insulation is not necessary unless you intend to selectively heat your home. Of course, such an option cannot be completely ruled out, but it is rather a temporary measure. And thermal insulation is a fairly constant thing, and besides, it is not cheap. Moreover, we strongly recommend using high quality soundproofing. And she copes well with noise reduction.

As far as vapor barrier is concerned, it is useful when acoustic mineral wool is used in interior walls. The insulating layer must be protected from condensation that may form when water vapor passes through the wall. Naturally, this is true for walls in rooms with constantly or periodically high humidity, for example, in the kitchen. In addition, a vapor barrier layer, especially with bitumen impregnation, in itself is a good protection against extraneous sounds, especially high-frequency ones.
Sometimes questions arise regarding the laying of communications through the inner walls of a frame house. Usually all pipes, wires, hoses, boxes, etc. are laid inside the wall before sheathing. However, in Russia, unlike many foreign countries, building codes and regulations only allow outdoor wiring. These standards are old, developed even when high-quality electrical insulation was not carried out on an industrial scale. Therefore, there will be nothing shameful if you lay an electrical wire inside the wall, but only of good quality. Well, if you still intend to comply with the requirements of SNIPs, you will have to hide the electrical wires in corrugated hoses or in special boxes that are attached over the wall. Naturally, in this case, you will have to select the electrical fittings in such a way that they do not spoil the interior of the room.

As we can see, the do-it-yourself device of the inner wall of a frame house of any type does not present any particular difficulties and can be done even alone. The main thing for obtaining a positive result is to understand the purpose and mechanism of action of all structural elements.

Frame-frame construction of walls

The design of any lightweight frame house consists of several key elements - a supporting frame, insulation laid inside, as well as external and internal cladding with additional layers.

Frame technology has an impressive list of advantages. Frame houses have a minimum wall thickness compared to any other technology and, accordingly, the best ratio of building area to usable area of ​​premises.

Houses built using frame technology are lightweight and have minimal foundation requirements, which can significantly save on its cost.

Despite the small thickness, subject to construction technology, the thermal insulation capacity of frame walls is very high.

Floor slab angle
in the frame structure

Junction of the inner wall

Depending on the type and thickness of the insulation used, the frame walls have the following approximate thermal resistance parameters

• Minvata 150mm thick, - R = 3.2
• Minvata 200mm thick, - R = 4.3
• Expanded polystyrene - 150mm thick, - R = 3.7
• Expanded polystyrene - 200mm thick, - R = 5

The construction of frame houses should be carried out from dry lumber. The use of raw wood will inevitably lead to its subsequent drying out, deformation, cracks and loosening of fasteners. The degree of these negative phenomena may be different, but one way or another they will manifest themselves. The most common section of the board used for the frame is 150x50mm, 200x50mm. The width depends on the required thickness of the insulation.

Oriented strand board (OSB, OSB), moisture resistant plywood, or cement strand board (DSP) can be used as the outer skin of the frame. The outer and inner cladding, in addition to protecting the frame and insulation from the external environment, gives the frame additional spatial strength.

Dense mineral wool insulation or expanded polystyrene can be used to insulate frame houses. Mineral wool insulation should be designed for use in vertical structures and keep its shape well, otherwise it will slide and form non-insulated cavities in the upper part of the wall frame.

If foam is used to insulate a house, then after installation in the frame, the slots around the perimeter are necessarily sealed with polyurethane foam. In this regard, it is necessary to take into account the fact that despite the lower cost of expanded polystyrene, in comparison with mineral wool, the required amount of foam can negate the difference in their price.

The most important element in the composition of the wall of a frame house is a vapor barrier. It is installed from the inside of the room and protects the insulation from getting wet. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of the vapor barrier, its tightness. All seams must be glued with double-sided tape. When using expanded polystyrene as a heater, there is no need for a vapor barrier.

The presence of a vapor barrier as part of frame structures creates a closed air environment inside the house. For this reason, in order to maintain a comfortable microclimate in the premises, an effective ventilation system should be arranged.

Frame technology involves two different approaches to the construction process. In the first variant, construction is carried out from piece materials. Preparation, sawing of materials and assembly of the house from them takes place directly on the site.

In the second version, the house is assembled from ready-made large-size panels (boards), manufactured at the factory in accordance with the project. They are delivered to the construction site in the required configuration, dimensions, with window and door openings. At the construction site, only their installation and assembly takes place. This approach allows you to erect a frame house box at a very high speed. At the same time, the weight of some panels can be very high, and therefore a crane or a team of several people may be needed to install frame-panel walls.

Panel technology has options. In one case, the shields can have only one-sided skin. The laying of the insulation and the cladding on the opposite side occurs only after the installation of the entire box. Another option for frame-panel houses is the construction of the so-called SIP panels. SIP panel consists of a thick layer of dense polystyrene foam on which sheets (OSB, OSB) are glued on both sides under high pressure. At the same time, expanded polystyrene performs not only a heat-insulating function, but also increases the strength of the structure. Houses built with SIP panels are more durable than conventional frame frames.

Frame house construction

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The structure of the frame consists of the following elements - the lower and upper strapping, vertical posts, slopes, basement and interfloor floors, window and door openings. The sequence of assembling a frame house depends on the applied engineering solutions.

Facing with a blockhouse

Basement floor platform
Plaster facade

Basement overlap for wall trim

Basement slab with independent
leaning. Brick cladding

The most common is the so-called platform framework. The name is due to the fact that before the walls are erected, a basement ceiling is first built on the foundation with a sub-floor laying. Fragments of the walls are assembled into frames already on the finished platform, after which they are installed and fastened to the ceiling directly over the subfloor. Then the operations are repeated, the interfloor overlap is mounted, on which the walls of the second floor are installed.

The advantage of the platform frame is its sophisticated technology and ease of work. The presence of a flat base facilitates the layout, adjustment and installation of elements, allows the assembly of the wall frame with maximum precision and quality.

The disadvantage of the platform design is that after laying the sheets of the subfloor (OSB, plywood, DSP), it is not recommended to let it get wet. In this regard, in conditions of rainy weather, it is necessary to provide measures to protect the overlap from rain.

Another disadvantage is that in a platform-type frame, it is extremely difficult to repair floors. The load-bearing walls stand directly on the floor beams, which makes it impossible to replace the beams without serious intervention in the rest of the structure.

This problem is not particularly relevant if the elements of the floor structure are properly processed and operated in conditions of normal humidity. However, in difficult conditions - poorly ventilated underground, constant waterlogging, poor biosecurity, the service life of basement structures may turn out to be much less than that of the walls, and the way to solve this problem will be very difficult. In this regard, it is desirable to provide access to the underground for periodic inspection of structures.

Alternatively, there are other options for the construction of the basement floor. In one of them, the overlap is constructed after the installation of the wall frame. The beams are laid on top of the horizontal plank of the wall frame. This option allows you to replace the floor beams if necessary. The disadvantage of this scheme is that in the absence of an even base, the assembly of the wall frame takes place in more difficult conditions. In addition, it becomes more difficult to trim slabs of the subfloor and insulation in the area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe junction of the ceiling with the walls.

In another version, the basement floor is constructed as a separate box inside the perimeter of the walls. Thanks to this, the frames of the walls and floors are completely independent from each other. This design is possible only if the foundation of the house is wide enough, which allows you to move the walls to its outer edge, and put floor beams on the inner one.

The good thing about this method is that, with the best maintainability, it retains the advantages of the platform. On the foundation, you can first build a floor box, and assemble the walls on it. The only difference is that after assembly, the walls are placed on the side, and not placed on the ceiling. The disadvantage is that this design requires a wider foundation strip than previous options. This leads to an increased consumption of materials for the foundation and an increase in its cost.

Frame houses can be built on almost any type of foundation. The simplest solution involves the use of a columnar or pile foundation without a monolithic grillage. In this case, the tops of the pillars are combined with a thick strapping beam, on which the frame is being constructed. Before erecting the frame, a layer of roll waterproofing is laid on the foundation.

Exterior decoration of frame houses

The decoration of a frame house can be done with a variety of materials. The simplest types of finishes are siding, blockhouse, and similar materials. For all these materials, vertical guides are installed - wooden bars or a metal profile.

The guides are installed on top of the outer rough skin, which, in turn, is preliminarily covered with a wind-moisture protective membrane. Thanks to the guides between the trim and the rough skin, a ventilated space is left that facilitates the escape of steam through the membrane. After installing the guides, the trim elements are attached to them using self-tapping screws. Installation is carried out from bottom to top.

A more complex option is the plastering of the frame. On the one hand, the outer cladding made of OSB, DSP or plywood is a fairly flat plane that can be primed and painted. On the other hand, all sheet materials undergo deformation when moistened. This leads to wave formation and cracking of the face coating at the joints of the slabs.

For these reasons, plastering is carried out using the "wet facade" technology, which avoids cracking. To do this, a thin layer of rigid insulation is attached to the outer cladding, on which a layer of plaster is applied over a fiberglass mesh. This is followed by a layer of primer and decorative plaster. An additional plus of this finish is that the additional layer of insulation, being continuous, increases the overall tightness of thermal insulation, eliminating cold bridges in the area of ​​joints of frame elements.

Another option for facing a frame house is brick lining of the walls. To perform brick cladding, it is necessary that the foundation protrudes beyond the outer plane of the walls, allowing the brick wall to be supported on it with a gap from the outer sheathing of at least 50 mm. The brick is attached to the frame wall with flexible ties, for which a metal perforated tape is suitable.

A lighter alternative to massive brick cladding is clinker facade cladding. It is produced in the widest range of colors and textures, and at the same time does not require additional width of the foundation. The technology of its installation is similar to the plaster cladding of the facade, but instead of decorative plaster, the tiles are glued.

Metal fasteners for wooden structures

Roof and beam fasteners

Concealed bracket

Currently, for the installation of wooden, including frame structures, in addition to simple nail connections, metal fasteners are actively used. Their use allows you to reduce the number of complex carpentry work, which speeds up the construction process. When using metal fasteners, there is no weakening of the cross-sections, as in the case of notches.

Manufacturers offer a wide range of wood fasteners. Each specific type of fastener is manufactured in various sizes, allowing you to choose it for the design parameters. Perforated fasteners are made of sheet steel with a thickness of 1.5 - 2 mm. To protect against corrosion, the metal is galvanized.

Perforated mounting plates

They contain many holes for nails / screws or bolts, allow reliable nailing of two or more elements in one plane at any angle. They are superimposed on the knot from both sides. They are actively used to connect elements in roof trusses. Allows for installation directly on the construction site. If necessary, the plates can be cut to fit the shape of the knot.

Nail Plates

- (metal toothed plates MZP) are made by punching a steel sheet, as a result of which several rows of teeth-nails with a common base are obtained. They have the same purpose as perforated plates, however, unlike them, they require installation in an industrial environment.

Fastening with nail plates is carried out using a press using the indentation method. Hammering the nail plates is unacceptable, as it does not provide a reliable connection. For these reasons, the use of nail plates is advisable precisely in production conditions, since it provides a high speed of assembly of structures, and is ineffective at the construction site.

Serves to connect perpendicular structural elements resting on each other - beams and rafters. It can also be used for stitching cross members from the underside of beams. For more effective fasteners, it is better to install a pair of fasteners not strictly symmetrically, but turn one of them with a shelf in the other direction. In some cases, the rafter-beam fastening can be replaced with a regular corner.

It is used in the construction of houses from a log or a bar of natural moisture, if a layered rafters are required. In this case, as a result of the shrinkage of the frame, the distance from the ridge girder to the Mauerlat may change. Therefore, rigid attachment of the rafters to the Mauerlat is unacceptable. Sliding fasteners allow the bottom edge of the rafters to move freely relative to the wall on which they rest. The installation of the sliding mount should be carried out taking into account the maximum amount of rafter displacement.

Beam supports

Allow to attach at right angles horizontal bearing elements - (beams, purlins) to various parts of the structure. Fastening to the main support can be carried out both on nails or self-tapping screws, and on bolts. Beam supports are available in a wide range of sizes to accommodate various beam widths and heights.

In some cases, if structures are part of the interior, increased aesthetic requirements are imposed on them. In this situation, they either try to mount the fasteners imperceptibly, or use the technology of cutting elements. Some fasteners are specially designed for flush-mounted installation.

These include the hidden beam bracket. Unlike conventional beam supports, after installation, it is completely hidden in the body of the beam. To use the bracket, a vertical cut is made from the end of the beam, and holes are drilled for metal pins. The bracket is attached to the supporting part of the structure, in which a platform for the bracket is preliminarily selected for the thickness of its metal, after which a beam is put on it and pins are inserted.

Corners

Various sizes are used to connect structures at right angles. May have holes for nails / screws and bolts. Often used to connect struts (vertical structural members) with horizontal members.

In addition to the corners with round holes, there are so-called adjustable corners with oblong bolt holes. This allows for subsequent adjustment of the position of the connected elements relative to each other.

There are also corners with an attachment angle of 135 degrees and corners with a bendable part, which allows joining structural elements at any desired angle.

Used to increase the strength of bolted joints, beams and rafters. The discs can be both double-sided, for installation between the connected elements, and one-sided for installation under the bolt heads. The fastening is effective when the diameter of the hole in the disc matches the diameter of the bolt.

T-mount

Serves to connect two perpendicular elements to each other. In a certain situation, it can replace the mount with corners.