The fuse burns when the Daewoo gas boiler is turned on. Heating systems for country and country houses. Boilers, geysers, water heaters - Repair, service, operation. Recommendations for installation and installation. The boiler does not turn on - there is no indication

I have a Hydrosta-250 boiler. After a power surge, the fuses burned out, replaced them, and the boiler turned on. I opened hot water, and 2-3 seconds - and the “New pump” fuse burns out. What could it be and how can I find out?

South Korean double-circuit wall gas boilers"HYDROSTA" are intended for both heating and hot water supply of country houses and cottages. The boiler settings are monitored by a built-in microprocessor, which controls the set value of the coolant temperature, while continuously regulating the boiler power. The boiler operating modes can also be controlled manually using a room remote control. Using a digital indicator, you can control the operation of HYDROSTA wall-mounted boilers in all modes, and sound alarm room thermostat makes it possible to receive the necessary information even at a sufficient distance from the heating unit. The operation of all boiler components is monitored by a telemetry system and, if necessary, transmits a signal about any malfunctions to the control panel. Exhaust gases are removed through a separate chimney duct by a forced ventilation system.

Thus, HYDROSTA wall-mounted gas boilers differ in their class in better side both in quality and reliability.

However, the characteristics of the Gidrosta-250 boiler, like any other heat generator, correspond to the specified parameters only when it is supplied with energy carriers and power supply, also the parameters specified by the standards. So, for example, the voltage in the network should be within 220V ± 10%, which means no less than 200V and no more than 240V. It should be noted that the service life household appliances and its electronics is determined not only by the brand of the foreign manufacturer, but also by the quality of the network power supply in its native country. Any sudden surges in network voltage or even just a power outage can and will cause equipment breakdowns.

Typically, the reasons for a surge in mains voltage above the permissible value can be a power line break, which can result in a voltage imbalance. In addition, lightning strikes near power lines can also cause overvoltage. In any case, when household appliances fail, you need to file a claim against the culprit of the voltage failure to compensate for the damage incurred. To identify the culprit, the owner of a country property should apply to the local organization Energosbyt. As a rule, specialists from the specified organization carry out an inspection of the scene of the incident and draw up a corresponding report. The applicant is notified of the findings obtained as a result of the survey no later than 30 calendar days from the date of filing the application.

As for this case, it is not possible to identify the cause of the blown fuse at a distance from the boiler. You should contact the nearest service center, whose specialists can immediately understand the cause of the malfunction and troubleshoot the boiler.

From this article you will learn what problems can arise in the automation of gas boilers, why it is impossible to ignite the igniter, which is why the boiler can turn off for no reason, and most importantly, we will figure out what actions need to be taken to diagnose and eliminate this malfunction.

Owners of non-volatile gas boilers are probably familiar with the situation when, for some reason, it is not possible to ignite the boiler, or a lot of time is spent on ignition. In this case, the problem lies in the boiler automation.

Today, the gas valve EUROSIT 630 is most often used in domestic and imported gas equipment. It is this valve that performs the functions of maintaining the specified coolant temperature and in case emergency situation completely shuts off the gas supply to the burners. Further starting of boilers with such automation is only possible manually. However, the cause of a boiler emergency shutdown is not always a real accident.

Let's try to understand this using the example of the Zhitomir-3 boiler. Automatically, it provides protection against loss of flame on the igniter and loss of traction.

Note: All gas hazardous work must be performed exclusively by representatives of specialized organizations with appropriate permits. Therefore, this article is provided for informational purposes only. This article will also help you monitor the work of the technician and, perhaps, save you from the need to purchase unnecessary spare parts.

Let's decide what we will call igniting the igniter. The EUROSIT 630 valve control knob allows you to switch the boiler to three main modes:

• disabled;
• ignition;
• temperature adjustment (1-7).

To ignite the pilot burner (igniter), you must move the control knob to the “ignition” (spark) position, press it and use the piezo ignition button to ignite the pilot burner. Next, the handle is held for several seconds (no more than 30) and released. The pilot light should continue to burn. This is what we will call igniting the igniter. If the pilot light goes out, you need to repeat the procedure several more times. If this does not help, you need to look for the problem.

At the moment the igniter is ignited, the flame heats the thermocouple, which in turn generates an EMF (approximately 25 mV for working SIT thermocouples), which is supplied through the automation sensor(s) circuit to the solenoid valve.

By pressing the gas valve handle, we manually open the solenoid valve, supplying gas to the igniter, which, if proper operation equipment, is held by the EMF generated by the thermocouple and remains in open position after releasing the handle. The thermocouple itself performs the function of protecting against loss of flame on the igniter. The sensors located in the circuit are normally closed and, when triggered, open their contacts, ensuring complete shutdown of the boiler.

Preparing for work

To carry out work to identify and eliminate problems with igniter ignition, we will need the following tool:

• open-end wrenches No. 9, 10, 12;
• pliers;
• multimeter;
• flathead screwdriver;
• alcohol.

Let's get started

To determine the cause of the malfunction, we will check the thermocouple circuit - solenoid valve. First, let's check the traction sensor. In this boiler it is located on the gas duct. To do this, remove two terminals from the sensor.

We close the two terminals together; they should connect tightly (to do this, you can press them a little with pliers).

We are trying to ignite the igniter. If this was possible, the cause of the malfunction is in the traction sensor. However, do not rush to change it. Let's check it first.

Note: In this work, we dismantle the sensor in order to show the features of its installation on the boiler and its markings. This is not necessary for verification.

Unscrew the two screws securing the draft sensor to the boiler flue.

Please note that the sensor is not attached tightly to the flue body, but is mounted on paronite gaskets. This is necessary in order to reduce the heating of the sensor through its contact with the body, and also to ensure a gap between the hole in the flue duct and the plane of the sensor.

We inspect the sensor. Its contacts must be firmly attached to the body. There should be no oxidation on them. The sensor rating (the temperature at which the sensor contact opens) in this case is 75 °C (designation on the housing L75C).

We check the traction sensor with a tester, measuring its resistance. It should be minimal (equal to the resistance of the probes) - 1-2 Ohms. If the sensor does not ring, it is clearly necessary to replace it with a similar one (with the appropriate response temperature).

If the sensor was able to ring, wipe the contacts of the sensor and the circuit terminals with alcohol, tighten them with pliers and dry them. We mount the sensor in place and connect it. We are trying to ignite.

If ignition was successful, the cause of the malfunction has been found and eliminated.

Be sure to check the draft after igniting the main burner. To do this, you can bring your hand to the place where the traction sensor is installed. No heat should come out of this hole. If this happens, it is necessary to eliminate the cause causing insufficient traction. In this case, the sensor works correctly.

Attention! Operating a boiler with a faulty chimney is strictly prohibited!

We remove the terminals from the contacts of the traction breaker and measure the resistance of the circuit. It should be no more than 3 ohms.

If this condition is met, we perform the following actions. Using wrench No. 9, unscrew the nut securing the thermocouple to the traction breaker. Using wrench No. 12, unscrew the traction breaker, which consists of two parts: a brass sleeve and a plastic insert, by half a turn.

We take out the plastic insert with contacts and unscrew the part completely.

Checking the thermocouple. We connect it directly to the solenoid valve (the place where the traction breaker was installed). We fix it with key No. 9.

We ignite the igniter. If it fails, the cause of the malfunction is most likely in the thermocouple. Solenoid valve It rarely fails.

Let's examine the thermocouple. In some cases, the thermocouple can be repaired. It happens that the thermocouple contact disappears. This is not a reason to replace it, just solder it.

It is important that the dielectric gasket is intact.

Make sure the thermocouple is positioned correctly in the pilot flame. The tip of the thermocouple should be immersed in the flame.

To adjust the position of the thermocouple relative to the igniter flame, use a No. 10 wrench to loosen the nut securing the thermocouple to the pilot burner. When moving the thermocouple, it is necessary to install it in the correct position and fix it with key No. 10.

To make a final verdict on replacement, you can measure the EMF generated by the thermocouple. To do this, it is necessary to ignite the igniter, and, holding the valve handle pressed, measure the EMF between the thermocouple contact and its body. The optimal value should be at least 18 mV. If the thermocouple is working, clean the parts of the traction breaker with alcohol, and also wipe the contact of the thermocouple. Especially if it had to be soldered.

We assemble the traction breaker in the reverse order and connect a thermocouple to it. The parts should not be pressed too hard. The force must be sufficient to ensure reliable contact. We crimp the terminals with pliers and, after wiping them with alcohol, try to ignite.

Performing all the above steps will surely help you troubleshoot your boiler.

Another cause of problems with ignition may be insufficient gas pressure on the igniter. This occurs due to a clogged nozzle. To clean it, use a No. 10 wrench to loosen the nut securing the copper ignition tube and remove the nozzle.

Advice: You can lightly tap the igniter to make it easier to remove the nozzle.

Cleaning the hole in the main jet copper wire. Violation of the hole size is not allowed!

At moments of the most intense gas consumption, the pressure in the central main pipe may drop. Accordingly, the gas pressure at the igniter may also decrease. This may require adjusting the gas pressure at the igniter. Unscrew the screw securing the decorative trim and remove it.

The adjustment is made by turning the screw on the valve. When turning it counterclockwise, the gas pressure on the igniter increases.

These tips will help you deal with problems with ignition of your boiler. In practice, the most common problems are with the contacts, and not with the sensors. Therefore, if each time you ignite the igniter you have to hold the valve handle longer and longer, we advise you to simply clean the contacts and tighten the automation terminals. In order to avoid real problems with the operation of the automation, we recommend cleaning the boiler in a timely manner.

Ferroli boilers - Experts answer questions

Question:

The Ferroli Domiproject f24 boiler worked fine for a year. Then it began to work intermittently. It works for a few seconds, goes out and lights up again, and so on all the time. Both during heating operation and during DHW operation. I checked the chimney system, everything is fine. Replacing the pressure switch did nothing. I removed the plugs on the top cover of the boiler, but it didn’t help. When I remove the sealed chamber cover, it works fine. What
could there be a reason?

Answer:

If the boiler does not show any error and the voltage is more than 200 volts, then the heating heat exchanger is most likely clogged. You can check by connecting the heating sensor for a few minutes in the air or, easier, by reducing the gas with a tap in front of the boiler. If the burning interval has increased, then flushing is necessary.

Question:

The Ferroli Domiproject f 24 boiler cannot cope, the coolant temperature does not rise above 40, and the potentiometer reads 70. The heated area is 70 m2. And it's 12 degrees in the room. What should be done?

Answer:

This means there is not enough flow. Here's what you need to do: check the return filter, check the pump power and find out if the main heat exchanger is clogged.

Question:

When the heating system is turned off, the pressure in the system drops to 0 (approximately in a day to 0.5 with the ECO turned off; or to 0 with the ECO turned on in a few hours) and the hot water supply accordingly also turns off.

Answer:

I add water. After a while the pressure drops again. When the heating is on, the pressure does not drop or does not drop very noticeably. Recharge once every 1-2 months.

Question:

First of all, you need to pump the expansion tank with nitrogen - air to 0.8 Bar - at a pressure on the water pressure gauge in the boiler = 0. And then look for a leak, check the blast valve to see if water is leaving it. After installing the Ferroli Domiproject 24 pressure boiler hot water was almost at the pressure level cold water

Answer:

This boiler does not have a secondary heat exchanger, it is bithermic, and scale forms in it winter mode, especially when the flow sensor is not working and when there is a DHW leak. You can wash it with sulfamide acid, for example, or hydrochloric acid.

Question:

Please tell me, if the boiler has completely gone out, nothing is burning or turning on, although the 220 board comes with the fuses and varistor intact, what burned out?

Answer:

Switching power supply on the board.

Question:

The Ferolli boiler worked normally for 2 weeks, after the arrival of a technician from service center For the first start, the hot water ignites and lights up the flame. If I tighten the gas valve, it works fine. The heating works normally even with the gas tap fully open. How to fix it?

Answer:

If you can adjust the gas valve yourself, the instructions describe the procedure quite well; if you are not sure, it is better to call a specialist again. You need to set the MAX on the gas valve - use the “reset” button to go to test mode, press the heating knob three times in MAX if the flame blows out with the key at 10 counterclockwise, and then use the “reset” button to go to test mode, adjust the power for heating and ignition using the heating temperature knob - heating power - water temperature knob - ignition. Procedure 5 minutes

Question:

Hello, I have a problem with the hot water supply; the ventilation hatches are regularly turned off; the ventilation hatches are already open and the heating turns off with the hatches closed; the pipe is clean; the fan is working; and sometimes it displays an error message: the draft sensor is faulty. What should I do?

Answer:

If everything is in order with the chimney, then the pressure switch needs to be checked.

Question:

Ferroli boiler in hot water supply mode. Periodically, in standby mode, the upper and lower LEDs begin to blink (simultaneously). When you turn on the hot water, after 3 minutes the burner goes out, although the burner on LED is on. Also, periodically, when hot water or heating is turned on, the upper and lower LEDs begin to flash alternately. ON-LiNE stabilizer with output inverter
sine wave and 220. The boiler has one heating season.

Answer:

First, check the dual temperature sensor.

Question:

The Ferroli Domiproject boiler was in operation for 1 month, it worked fine, and one night it began to make strange sounds similar to strong boiling (it was heard through a closed door). The unit was turned off until the morning, in the morning I checked the pump, the supply voltage (there is a stabilizer) - everything is normal. I started the boiler - the sound returned, I think scale had formed - I washed the heat exchanger, nothing helped - at a temperature of 40 and above, cacophony begins, if you open hot water, the sound disappears, when you close it, it appears again.

Answer:

Perhaps the return filter is clogged, low flow through the heat exchanger - the heating system.

Question:

When the heating circuit heats up above 55 degrees, the heat exchanger begins to make noise, as if it were boiling. Can high circulation in the heating circuit cause the temperature in the DHW to exceed? I set the temperature with the heating potentiometer from 45 to 60 degrees. For half an hour the boiler rose to temperature, then began to make hissing sounds, did not wait any longer, turned the knob to 55, the burner turned off.

I observed the parameters of the gas pressure, after a fire in the firebox, the pressure on the burner maximum, after about 10 seconds, drops to a minimum, so it burns for about five minutes, then it begins to add 10 pascals and stops. Somewhere at three millibars, it starts to make noise, works for another three minutes, then reaches a temperature of 55-60 degrees and turns off.

I cleaned the boiler (pump, heat exchanger, furnace, filter) - it didn’t help, then I set the lower gas pressure setting to 40% below the nameplate - the noise disappeared at 60 degrees. It’s a paradox: when you remove the lid of a closed combustion chamber, the boiler doesn’t make any noise. When you put it on, it starts to make noise. What could it be?

Answer:

Or scale in the heating circuit or some kind of dirt. You need to rinse it with a booster, if it helps, good, if it doesn’t help, install another heat exchanger or another boiler with separate heat exchangers.

Question:

I have the following problem. Ferroli boiler DOMIproject C24. When turning off hot water circulation pump The heating circuit may not turn on. Does not turn on until the burner is ignited for heating. The water in the boiler boils and the red LED starts flashing. The boiler breaks down. This happens several times a day. How can you solve this problem yourself?

Answer:

Clean the DHW flow sensor.

Question:

2A fuses burn out on the Ferroli DOMIproject C24 boiler. What can be done?

Answer:

Fuses cannot burn just like that; you need to look for where the short circuit occurs that leads to the fuse burning out. First, check the operation of the pump.

Question:

I bought a Ferolli boiler and installed it. Uninterruptible power supply SMART APC 750. Hot water flows without problems. When I turn on the heating, it displays the error “overheating protection has tripped.” The pump is not working. What to do?

Answer:

Unlock the pump shaft. If this does not help, connect the pump directly. If it does not work, replace the pump. If it doesn't help, pay for repairs.

Question:

There is such a problem. When the hot water is turned on, the Ferroli Domiproect F24 boiler periodically turns off the heating and then starts again.

Answer:

What could be the problem? The board has been replaced.

Question:

It is necessary to adjust the operation of the gas valve - minimum power.

Answer:

Tell me what could be. When I turn on the boiler, the red and yellow lights immediately turn on (they blink frequently, what could it be besides the sensor? And another related question, if you remove and bridge the contacts that go to the sensor, the blinking of the lights should stop, if the problem is in the sensor, am I thinking correctly or Am I wrong?

Question:

If the error does not disappear by jumping the wires, the sensor must be replaced.

Answer:

Ferroli DOMIcompact c24 boiler. Relieves pressure to 0. There are no leaks in the system. It seems to reset when the hot water is on. Cold water supply pressure is 2-3 atmospheres. The boiler worked for two years. There may be a breakdown between the circuits, and the pressure drops below the cold water supply pressure due to ejection. You most likely have a different problem!

Question:

Expansion tank

Answer:

lost air. The heating system cools down and the pressure drops when you turn on the DHW.

Question:

Tell me, is it possible to adjust the minimum pressure switch so that the boiler turns on at a pressure of 0.8 bar?

Answer:

There is an adjusting screw on the pressure sensor under the cap on top.

Question:

Ferroli domicompact F 24 boiler, 4.5 years. Last year the heat exchanger leaked. They called a repairman - he soldered it. This winter, another problem appeared: The heating temperature is set to 60 C, and the pipes heat up to 80 C. At the same time, the pressure goes off scale to 3.5 Bar. Or it drops to 0. Tell me what the problem is?

Answer:

Replace the NTC, bleed the volume compensator and perform preventative repairs.

Question:

The Ferroli Domicompact F24 boiler operates with the room thermostat jumper removed. The problem arose when I connected the thermostat (COMPUTHERM Q7 RF). For some time everything worked fine, then after opening the contacts in the thermostat receiver, the boiler continued to work as before. Depending on the position of the temperature regulator, heating occurs, heating is turned off, and the pump circulates water.
Thermostat

connected correctly and works on short circuit-open circuit - checked by a tester.

Answer:

Moreover, when to completely turn it off i.e. The jumper is removed, the boiler is working, the DHW regulator is in what position it is on off, it doesn’t matter - everything is the same. Sometimes after turning on the DHW it turns off and then (as expected) it works normally from the thermostat. Sometimes, after turning off the thermostat, it tries to start, but immediately turns off, this happens several times, after which the pump runs for 6 minutes and the boiler turns off. If possible, tell me what's the matter?

Question:

Check the wires going from the board to the room thermostat connector. When the circuit is closed (or the thermostat has closed the contacts) - the boiler works for heating, when it is open - it waits for the contacts to close to turn on the heating.

Answer:

There is such a problem: the Ferroli DomiCompact F24 boiler works perfectly from a 220V network, but when connecting a Leoton 500 watt converter, the gas does not ignite. What to do?

Question:

Turn the fork over.

I have a Ferolli DOMIcompact C24 boiler. Everything was working fine, and then suddenly, when the heating of the apartment was turned on, the pressure on the boiler suddenly began to rise to 3 bar. To make it clearer: The boiler is not working - I set the pressure to 1 (I hear a clicking sound, the light stops blinking). I set the temperature to 40. The device starts up and begins to heat the water.. When the water has warmed up, I turn off the water from the tap and set the pressure to 2 bar. When the boiler operates constantly at this temperature and does not turn off (in winter), the pressure remains unchanged (sometimes increases slightly).

And when you turn off the heating of the heating system, the pressure drops below 1 and the device does not ignite. You have to open the feed tap and add water to increase the pressure to start the boiler. It's summer now and the heating system isn't working. I set the pressure to 1.5 to heat the water. This is how it has been for 2 months now.

Answer:

Tell me, what is the problem?

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