Raspberry hardening: cold water and pruning. Summer raspberry care When to water raspberries

In our summer cottage, raspberries grow like a weed (may the gardeners forgive me for such blasphemy). Our plants bear fruit regularly. In the high season with an area of ​​6 sq. M. we collect 3 liters of berries at a time, plus we go to the forest. There are enough raspberries, so we don't take special care of the plantings. But still certain rules for caring for raspberries the reference books are spelled out, namely:

• whether it is necessary to water the raspberries;
• how to water raspberries;
• how can you feed raspberries in spring, summer (June, July) and autumn?

How often to water the raspberries?

Watering raspberries depends on weather conditions: air temperature and rainfall. Particular attention is paid to watering during:

• flowering,
• ovary formation,
• fruiting and ripening of berries.

Water the raspberries recommended by drip irrigation, in grooves or sprinkling. After fruiting (in August and September), the raspberries have enough moisture, so additional watering is not required. In case of drought, watering of plants is practiced in the second half of October in order to prepare for winter.

An excessive amount of moisture, as well as a lack, negatively affects the plants. Therefore, every time you should think about whether watering is really necessary. Do not forget to water the raspberries immediately after planting: they do this at the rate of 1 bucket of water for 3-4 plants. But for adult plants, the watering rate in liters in the reference book "Encyclopedia of Country Life", unfortunately, is not spelled out.

In another reference book - "Fruit growing" - such a norm is given, how often to water raspberries:

In dry weather in Central Russia, watering raspberries is recommended 2 times - during the formation of ovaries and ripening of berries. In the southern regions, it is watered up to 7 times: before flowering, when the ovary is green, 2-3 times during the ripening of the crop, after harvesting, during dry autumn in order to prepare for winter.

Water consumption for 1 irrigation: 300-400 cubic meters of water per 1 ha. Irrigation is carried out by sprinkling or along furrows. In terms of 1 square meter, 30-40 liters of water per 1 square meter is obtained. meter. Too much 🙂

How to feed raspberries?

General rules for feeding raspberries:

• Plants that have enough nutrition should not be fed. Only at low and medium indicators of the presence of nutrients in the soil, top dressing is performed.
• Top dressing is carried out before loosening the soil.
• The effectiveness of fertilizing increases if it is carried out in conjunction with irrigation (300-400 cubic meters of water per hectare).

In the spring nitrogen fertilizers are useful:
When planting, urea is introduced at the rate of 15 g per 1 m2 into the grooves on both sides of the row. Fertilizer is embedded in the soil by loosening. And after loosening, the soil under the bushes is mulched with organic matter (compost, humus or straw manure) at the rate of 6 kg per m2. The procedure is repeated annually. A solution is also used: 1-1.5 matchboxes of ammonium nitrate per 10 liters of water. Each bush is spilled from a watering can with a strainer, and then carefully loosened so as not to damage the roots.

Summer and autumn useful phosphorus and potassium:
Phosphate and potassium supplements are recommended once every 3 years.
To do this, apply:
Superphosphate in the calculation of 120-150 g per 1 m2.
Potassium sulfate in the calculation of 90-120 g per 1 m2.

Feed the raspberries in the summer, in June when the ovary is still green, it is useful with a solution of slurry or bird droppings. This top dressing is recommended for high yields or poor plant growth. If you are a little late, it doesn't matter, feed raspberries during berry ripening and fruiting, that is in July... However, such a late feeding will have less impact on the harvest than at the beginning of summer. The mullein solution is prepared in a 1 to 10 ratio with water. The bucket is enough for watering 1 sq. meters. At a distance of 20 cm from the bushes, grooves are made with a rake and the solution is poured into them. As it is absorbed, it is covered with earth. This summer dressing is loved not only by raspberries, but also by currants, gooseberries.

Organic fertilizers (peat, compost, rotted manure) are applied annually in the fall for digging. Many berry crops (raspberries, gooseberries, currants) need such feeding after picking berries. In autumn, the soil under the bushes is sprinkled with organic matter and dug up (at some distance from the bushes, so as not to damage the roots). Then, during autumn feeding, it is recommended to add superphosphate (10 g per 1 m2) in combination with potassium salt.

We found such data in the reference book "Encyclopedia of Countryside Life". Another handbook - "Fruit growing" (Soviet times) gives the following recommendations, how to feed raspberries:

Annually under raspberries apply the following amount of fertilizers per 1 hectare:

• 30-40 tons of manure (3-4 kg per square meter),
• 1 -1.5 centners of ammonium nitrate (10-15 g per square meter),
• 1.6 - 2.4 centners of superphosphate (16-24 g per square meter),
• 0.6-0.9 quintals of potassium chloride (6-9 g per square meter).

Rates vary with soil and plant conditions.

Fertilizers are poured into grooves or holes located on both sides of the row (distance 40-50 cm from the base of the bush).

Loosening

In this source (reference book "Fruit growing") it is also recommended to pay special attention to loosening the soil under the raspberry bushes.

Planting strips should be regularly maintained in a loose and weed-free condition. The main tillage is carried out in autumn, after the end of the growing season. In October, the aisles are plowed to a depth of 15-20 cm, and the soil near the plants in the rows is dug up with a pitchfork or shovels 8-12 cm. In this case, the shovel is placed not across, but along the direction of root growth, so as not to damage them.

In the spring and immediately after harvest, shallow cultivation is carried out and they try to maintain the soil in this state throughout the season.

Spring Raspberry Care: The Basics of Double Pruning

Similar articles

• Standard raspberry seedlings are placed in one line every 50 cm from each other. Add 1 tbsp to the dug hole. l. nitroammophos, place a seedling, cover the roots with earth, trying to deepen the root collar by no more than 2-3 cm.Then the shoots are cut off the ground, leaving 25-30 cm.The earth around the bush is mulched with humus, watered with water at the rate of 5 liters per bush.

Standard raspberry Tarusa

It affects young shoots of replacement, shoots. The stems are not affected. On the shoots are formed Gall midges are of two types: shoot and stem. On the Progress variety, it is recommended to pluck out 50% of buds, inflorescences, small fruits in the ovary stage. The remaining 50% of the fruits will be large, one hundred percent yield of marketable fruits before the first autumn frosts is ensured, and the yield increases.

First pinch

Treatment of raspberries in the spring from pests

All these diseases are viral in nature.

As soon as the entire crop is harvested, all two-year-old shoots on which there were berries are cut out. In the last decade of August, watering of the raspberry plant stops - the plants have enough moisture, which they receive with autumn precipitation. A decrease in soil moisture contributes to the maturation and lignification of new shoots, due to which they better survive winter frosts. This measure also prevents purple spot disease on plants. The exceptions are those cases when autumn is marked by extraordinary aridity. Then, in October, podzimny watering of raspberry bushes under the root is organized. Under each bush, you need to pour 30 liters of water, and after 2 days the earth around the shoots is loosened and covered with mulch.

Now you know how to feed, fertilize and how to transplant raspberries in the spring, which will allow you to get tasty and ripe berries until autumn.

It is necessary to trim the bushes with a sharp knife or garden pruner after the snow has melted, but before the soil has warmed up. Most often, this is mid-March-April, it all depends on the region in which you live. During this period, we remove weak, broken and diseased shoots, frozen branches, and trim all remaining stems to a healthy bud. If you miss this moment, the shoots simply will not have time to develop, which will negatively affect the harvest. Remember that pruning, not pinching, will work.

In the spring, against the spread of fungal, bacterial diseases, raspberry bushes must be treated in March with a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid and in May before flowering - with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or 10 ml of topaz per 10 liters of water.

Transplanting and feeding raspberries in the spring

Tarusa

Lateral The first species is a shoot gall midge

• In all remontant varieties of non-tree-like raspberries, in which, on young shoots of replacement in autumn, the crop is located at the top in a compact brush (Progress) or the fruit branch has several branches (Tachanka, Lloyd George, Meteor, Zhuravlik, Lesnaya, other varieties), do not pinch need.
• Done in the second year after planting, when the bush has at least two young replacement shoots (Fig. 1.2). If you pinch one (Fig. 1a) and leave the other untouched, then 3 laterals will grow on the pinched shoot (Fig. 1b). There are 2 and 4. The second shoot (not plucked) does not give laterals. If you pinch both (Figure 2a), then two or three laterals will grow on both (Figure 2b). Rarely, but there are 6, mostly 3-4. It all depends on the variety of raspberries, cultivation techniques.
• Control measures: removal of diseased bushes from the root; treatment with drugs that destroy pests - aphids, leafhoppers, others that are carriers of pathogenic viruses, for example, Aktellik, Iskra, Karbofos, Kemifos, and others.

In the spring, pruning is also recommended, since after winter it is usually visible which shoots are weak, which ones were sick. Young shoots are cut out if there are a lot of them or they grow too often. No more than 10-12 young shoots are left per bush.

nasotke.ru

Summer and winter watering will prepare the plants not only for winter, but also for abundant fruiting next year.Each of us loves to feast on berries in the summer, especially those grown with our own hands at their summer cottage. In order not to reduce the yield of raspberries, it is recommended to grow it for no more than four years in one place, and then it should be transplanted. It is not recommended to replant all the bushes at once, as the next year you may be left with practically no harvest. And how to transplant How to feed the garden in spring

You will need

1. Great harm to raspberry plantations is caused by a pebble mosquito. Against him, young shoots during the mass flight of the mosquito are sprayed on about May 10 and 20 with one of the solutions: actelik or Bi-58 - 15 ml per 10 liters of water. The same treatment must be repeated at the end of July, when the second generation of the mosquito comes out.
2. Growths-cones of an indefinite shape. The outer cover of the shoot does not crack. Inside the outgrowth live, overwinter larvae up to 2 mm in size, light yellow or orange, 5, rarely up to 7 pieces. Apparently, this is why the name is stem gall midge.
3. ... From the second half of summer to late autumn, raspberry stalks form

Instructions

• Now there are many new wonderful varieties of raspberries. Without practical application, nothing can be said about whether or not the yield will increase after the pinching of young shoots. Everything that is described above has been tested empirically. Some varieties responded well to pinching with a significant increase in yield, while in others it, on the contrary, decreased.
• Second pinch
• The culprit for the appearance of the worminess of the berries is the raspberry beetle. It hibernates in adulthood in the ground, appears in the spring, eats buds and flowers. Raspberry beetle females lay eggs in buds, flower buds, green raspberries. Beetle larvae (worms) live in berries, feed on them, and pupate into the soil. This cycle repeats once a year.
• Older bushes usually have less young shoots. Sooner or later, the yield of such bushes decreases. Experienced gardeners know that yields can be restored by removing the old rhizome. In this case, there is an increase in the growth of young shoots. In parallel with the removal of the old rhizome under raspberries, increased doses of organic and mineral fertilizers are applied. Such rejuvenation should be carried out every 5-6 years.
• Raspberries are a very useful plant that can be seen in almost every garden area. This is one of the most delicious berries in our gardens. But who of us did not notice on the bushes, either worms, or some kind of gnarled, hardened berries? Gardeners always have a lot of questions about how to grow tasty, sweet raspberries. We have selected the most frequently asked questions and tried to answer briefly.
• Raspberries

KakProsto.ru

How to water raspberries? - Plant magic

ladym.ru

It is best to alternate the application of organic and mineral fertilizers for raspberries. The dosage is as follows - 1.5-3 kg of manure + 1 tablespoon (30 g) of superphosphate + 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate (30 g) per 1 sq. m. Organic matter (manure) is introduced in the fall during deep digging of row spacings. Superphosphate is applied in the spring before bud break during the first loosening. Potassium sulfate - at the end of flowering. Fertilizers are evenly distributed over the surface of the soil, dig in or loosen it.

How to choose the best place to plant raspberries?

The right thing is done by those gardeners who set aside a corner of the garden for her on their site or plant her along the hedge. So it is more convenient to look after her. But still, the corner of the garden is preferable, since it is there that a large amount of snow accumulates during the winter.

What is the best soil for raspberries?

You will find out thanks to the instructions below.

How to prepare the soil for planting raspberries?

After removing the upper part of the shoots, buds awaken, forming about five shoots with a harvest during the fruiting period, their length is about 50-60 cm.The next time, pruning is carried out after the buds have blossomed. We remove 15-20 cm from the top of the shoot.

Do I need to plant several varieties of raspberries side by side for better pollination?

In May, before flowering, they are fed with a solution of nitroamofoski or nutrivant drip - 2 tbsp. l. Ten liters of water for 3 bushes.

When to plant raspberries?

How to plant raspberry seedlings correctly?

The growths are found from August to November. During the autumn-winter period, the larvae affect the entire interior of the shoot, turning it into dust, and immediately overwinter. This type of gall midge is rare; it is not terrible for raspberries.

Do raspberries need to be trimmed after planting?

Swelling, growths or bumps. They are usually found at the bottom of the stem, closer to the root. Outer tissue - the epidermis is cracking. The internal nutrient medium of the stem is turned into dust by the gall midge larva. The stem breaks easily at this point. As a rule, there is one bulge on the shoot and one larva inside. Sometimes on the stem there are two or three bulges with different distances from each other. Rarely, but there are up to 5-7 such cones on the shoot.

How far apart should raspberry seedlings be planted?

Berries are rich in fiber, contain vitamin A, folic acid, antioxidants, and numerous minerals. The juice contains vitamin C, and the tiny seeds contain vitamin E.

How to propagate raspberries?

Fig. 4a shows the same number of fruiting replacement shoots, but all three were pinched. The number of laterals on the middle is 3, on the right - 2, on the left - no. Or maybe all of them have 2 or more.

How, when and why to care for raspberry plantings?

Raspberry agrilus is a light gray-greenish beetle. The female beetle lays its eggs in raspberry stalks under the skin. The emerging larvae make spiral passages in the stems - the shoots die off.

With good care, it can be grown for 12-15 years without changing the planting site.

Fertile, moist soils are best for growing. The best ones for her are sandy-clayey, alluvinal-meadow, which are more saturated with nutrients than others. Heavy clay soils and soils oversaturated with limestone are unacceptable for it.

- Shovel,

According to experts, this method will allow the bush to produce a large harvest, since during the pruning process we will add 10-15 new shoots that will yield a harvest.

How, when to water and how much water do raspberries need when watering?

A good effect is given by foliar dressing on the leaf once a month, starting from the moment of budding with solutions with a set of microelements "Ryazanochka for berry crops" - 1 tsp. 10 liters of water or "Nutrivant plus fruit" - 2 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water.

Fairy tale

How to trim raspberries?

Control measures.

Gall midge on young shoots of raspberries

Raspberries are very susceptible to viral diseases. For this reason, it is especially important to plant only plants obtained from a completely reliable source on your site.

How to rejuvenate raspberry bushes?

In subsequent years, the number of pinching options may vary. Everything will depend on the number of fruiting stems, replacement shoots, years of life of the bush. As soon as the replacement shoots began to grow less compared to last year, it means that the life of the bush ends, the pinching stops.

How and what is raspberry fertilized with?

Control measures - cutting, destruction (burning) of the affected shoots - this is the only way ..

How long, how many years can raspberries grow in one place?

Signs: blue-violet spots appear on the stems at the point of attachment to the cuttings - the leaves fall off, but the cuttings remain and droop. The culprit of the disease is the spores of the fungus overwinter on young shoots of raspberries.

What are the fungal diseases of raspberries, how to deal with them?

Blue-violet spotting (didimela)

On the site intended for planting, 5-8 kg of manure, 70-80 g of superphosphate, 20-25 g of potassium sulfate are applied - this is per 1 sq. m. Scatter fertilizers evenly over the entire area of ​​the site, dig it deeply.

- fertilizers,

Drying of shoots (coniotirium)

Thus, due to the formation, the number of "fresh" shoots will increase, which will give a rich harvest.

In unfavorable weather conditions (frost, heat, sunburn), mechanical damage, oppressed plants are sprayed with an anti-stress drug "Aminokat 30%" - 2 tbsp. l. 10 liters of water. At the end of July, from the standard varieties Tarusa, Krepysh, Skazka, only the fruit bearing shoots are cut out. At the end of September, the bushes are formed: 5-6 of the strongest shoots are left on 1 bush and the top is cut by 10-15 cm.

Anthracnose

- raspberry varieties of the standard non-repair type with a fruiting period in the Kuban from mid-June to mid-July.

If a build-up is found, I cut it off with a knife, with a sharp object I remove all the contents on a piece of paper, together with the gall midge larvae, and destroy it. I cover the wound with garden varnish, you can use grease, cement, clay or any oil paint. This is the only available, effective method of dealing with this type of disease. Shoots bear fruit normally.

Raspberry leaf rust

Break the stem at the bulge - find a larva 10-12 mm long. It is light yellow or light green in color, depending on the juice it feeds on. From the place of the swelling, the gall midge larva moves upward in a spiral up to 20 cm or more. In the initial stage of development in her nest - Halle - she is very small, lives, develops alone. When a certain age is reached, the larva is selected on the surface of the shoot, sinks into the soil. The gall midge creeps out of the soil, having already turned into a small mosquito. Female mosquitoes lay eggs under the bark or in the cracks of the stem (by the way, very often the bark of raspberries cracks from overfeeding with nitrogen). Then the gall midge larvae appear there again, which penetrate into the stem - everything starts all over again.

Raspberries grow better in full sun, but this condition is not always easy to achieve in a small garden and, if necessary, the plant will withstand a little shade. She likes more acidic soil (pH 6.0-6.5). In alkaline soil, it will seriously suffer from excess iron and manganese deficiency. The soil should not be dry during flowering and fruit ripening.

Raspberry leaf spot

Before starting this operation, you need to know the variety of raspberries, their reaction to pinching.

The raspberry stem gall midge is a small mosquito that usually appears in May-June. Female mosquitoes lay eggs under the skin of raspberry stalks. The larvae (worms) live in the stem, feed on its pulp. At the site of the introduction of the larvae, cones appear on the stem, growths, in which there is usually one larva, rarely 2-3. The stem breaks easily at the place where the growth appears. Sooner or later, food stops flowing to the top of the stem, the leaves wither, the shoots die off prematurely, the crop dies.

What are the viral diseases of raspberry, how to deal with them?

Control measures: remove, burn diseased shoots; spray with copper-containing preparations (chorus, Bordeaux liquid, HOM, others).

Witch's broom (overgrowth, bushiness)

Most raspberry varieties are self-fertile, so there is little need to plant pollinators nearby. Of course, you can plant several varieties side by side, but this does not affect pollination.

Yellow mosaic

- rotted manure,

Yellow venation of leaves

True, this method also has its drawbacks, because pruning young trees and shrubs leads to thickening of raspberries, which can cause diseases and their rapid spread. In this case, you will have to increase the distance between the rows of raspberries to 1.5–2 meters, and you do not need to leave more than 12 shoots on the bush. Naturally, you should take care of disease prevention, which will minimize the risk of disease. Now you know how to care for raspberries in spring by pruning plants, which means it's time to move on to fighting diseases and feeding.

Infectious (viral chlorosis)

In the remontant standard varieties Penguin and Eurasia, which bear fruit on annual shoots from the end of July, the entire aerial part is removed before winter. Only the root hibernates. This allows you to improve the health of the bushes, avoid diseases, reduce the number of pests, and get a guaranteed harvest for the next year.

The shoots of the standard raspberry are erect, stocky, up to 1.5 m high with dense wood and a non-sinking top, very similar to small strong crimson trees. These qualities make it possible to grow such plants without special supports, trellises and garters, which significantly reduces the cost, makes it easier to care for the plantings, and allows them to be cultivated in the field. Fruit buds along the stem are very densely located every 1-2 cm, therefore, during flowering and fruiting, the plants look very elegant.

I noticed on raspberries other types of growths in the lower part of young shoots of replacement - in the form of a ring, acute-angled and round spherical in shape. Very rare. When cutting the place of growth (the inside of the stem is not broken), you can see several black dots, and I did not see the larva, maybe it is, but it can probably only be detected under a microscope. What kind of pest or disease I do not know. She did not cut the shoots. They bear fruit normally.

How to prevent the appearance of worms in raspberries?

During the growing season, several generations of gall midges develop, and there is a continuous wave of formation of new swelling galls on raspberry stems. This continues until the first autumn frosts. The larvae of the last generation hibernate in the soil at different depths (up to 30 cm or deeper) at different distances from the affected shoot, that is, over the entire raspberry planting area.

Planting raspberry seedlings too deep is the most common mistake gardeners make. When planting, the roots should be buried no more than 8 cm. If the seedlings have just arrived from the nursery, then you can see the old soil level on the stems - this is like an indicator of the correct planting depth.

How to deal with raspberry agrilus?

The pinching begins when the young shoots of replacement reach a growth of more than 1.2 m, that is, they exceed the wire of the trellis so that it can be tied up. This pinching period starts around May 25 and lasts until mid-June. Sometimes the period is extended to a maximum of June 20-25, if the spring is late.

Control measures: cutting off affected branches, burning them; treatment of raspberries with mosquito repellent agents - infusions of tobacco, mullein, walnut leaves, bird cherry, nettle, wormwood, etc. Spray in the evening, since mosquitoes begin their action at nightfall, all night.

How to deal with stem raspberry gall midge?

This fungal disease manifests itself in the drying of the shoots, sometimes together with the berries.

The best time of the year for planting or transplanting seedlings is autumn - late August - September. In the spring, you can plant only as an exception.

How to deal with raspberry kidney moth?

- pegs.

In order for raspberry bushes to bring tasty and healthy berries, you need to take care of protection, because pests and diseases of bushes can lead to their death. Most often, raspberries are attacked by diseases such as white spot, rust, anthracnose. Pests include: spider mites, aphids, raspberry mites, leaf rollers. In order to reduce the risks of diseases, before planting, wash the roots with Agat-25K, which will protect against verticillary wilting.

How to deal with leaf rollers, aphids and mites - raspberry pests?

Leaf rollers

The interest of gardeners in the cultivation and cultivation of raspberries in the Kuban is constantly growing. Now, with the advent of standard varieties, it becomes possible for farmers or farms to cultivate large areas of this crop without trellises and garters, which reduces labor costs. Malibi growing is one of the most promising areas in agriculture. With proper care, adherence to cultivation technology, gardeners and farmers can achieve high yields of this beautiful berry, which is always in demand in the markets of the Kuban.

The people christened such a raspberry as a “raspberry tree”. Krepysh and Skazka varieties surpass Tarusa in berry quality. Ruby berries, large from 4 to 10 g, beautiful conical shape, dense, with good removability and transportability. Tarusa has light red berries, 4-8 g.

Aphid

What can be done to avoid losing the harvest?

Gall midges are very mobile. If, when loosening the soil, the larva is on top, then after two or three minutes it will crawl into the ground, then it is difficult to find it. There were cases when I found 2-3 larvae in galls in the spring. Apparently, these were individuals of late rotation. Autumn and winter were warm.

Mites

The quickest way to plant raspberries is to dig a trench about the width of your shovel. When you place the seedlings in the dug trench, straighten the roots, trim off any damaged parts. Cut off the shoots immediately after planting, they can be no more than 60 cm in height.

How to Fight Raspberry Bacterial Cancer?

Pinching begins in the second year after planting a standard two-year-old seedling with a good root system, when the bush has at least two strong replacement shoots.

The butterfly of the raspberry bud moth begins its vigorous activity during the flowering of raspberries - it lays eggs in a flower. The caterpillar feeds on the juices of the flower, and then hides in the bark of the stem for the winter. In the spring, caterpillars penetrate the kidneys, eat out everything inside, and pupate there.

Raspberry care: pinching or pinching shoots

Control measures: cut, burn the affected shoots; spraying with copper-containing preparations.

Pits for planting raspberries are usually 30x30x30 cm in size. The seedlings are positioned so that after filling with soil they are 6-7 cm below the surface of the earth. The roots must be carefully spread out and covered. The soil around the seedling is compacted. For better conditions, when watering, the soil is raked away from the trunk - a small depression is made so that the water does not spread. After watering, the soil around the seedlings is mulched with peat, hay, straw, fallen leaves, and other mulch.

Raspberries are best replanted in early August or late July, after harvesting early potatoes, onions and tomatoes. Dig holes about 60x50 centimeters wide and 50 centimeters deep, the distance between which should be at least 60 centimeters, between the rows - 130 cm.

Before the beginning of the growing season, old and frozen branches are removed, which must be burned, after which the raspberry bushes are treated with Bordeaux liquid. To protect the garden from spider mites, the shrubs are treated with colloidal sulfur before flowering, and the best remedy for powdery mildew will be used. and the site http://ogorod23.ru

At the Kokinsky base of the VSTISP branch, under the leadership of Professor I.V. Kazakov, work was also carried out in this direction, but only on remontant raspberries. In 1994, scientists S.N. Evdokimenko and V.L. Kulagina obtained the first in Russia remontant variety of the standard type - Eurasia, derived from seeds from free pollination of interspecific remontant forms. As a variety, it has been multiplying since 2005. I recommend that you always leave one or two young replacement shoots in the bush for a reserve, depending on the size of the bush, its age. As a rule, one, rarely two shoots are affected by gall midge in a bush.

Control measures.

So that later you will not be upset because of the lack of harvest, do not grow it in one place for more than four years, and then transplant it to a new place. Many gardeners know about this. But most often the size of our garden plots is not so large, so all raspberry bushes are immediately transplanted. And there is usually no harvest the next year. Small, low-cut seedlings with their harvest can only please the children who have come to visit. To get a consistently high yield every year, you can use one of the two planting methods below.

Pinch only

Control measures: spray during swelling of the kidneys with a 30% solution of karbofos.

Spores of the fungus infect shoots, berries, leaves, spots with a purple border appear on them.

It is necessary. If you do not cut it, then, firstly, it will give a small harvest, and secondly, new young shoots will not form, which will yield next year, and thirdly, the cut plants take root better. Therefore, immediately after planting, the stems are cut with shears, leaving stumps no more than 20-25 cm in height.In each hole, put a bucket of rotted manure. Thoroughly compact it, and cover the top layer of the pit with earth mixed with mineral fertilizers: 80 grams of ash or 10 grams of potassium salt and 40 grams of ammophos. Cover this fertilized mixture with a 10 cm layer of soil.

I have 1 bush repair. also turned yellow, climbed the sites - I did not find anything comforting. I processed Ferovit and Epin, leaf by leaf, and gave azotic (a matchbox for a bucket of water) under the root, just watered garlic, watered raspberries. Now the crown has grown green foliage. Several more times I will process not only that bush, but everyone who grows around it, for prevention. Try it too, maybe you can save the raspberries ...

Grow varieties that are resistant to all diseases and pests.

This is the fight against mosquitoes, egg-laying and larvae. I will share my observations, methods, conclusions. Small mosquitoes (mosquitoes) like to settle on raspberry varieties that are sick with didimella - purple spot. The main struggle must be waged against it.

Method one.

Tall varieties of raspberries

There are many varieties of leaf rollers. A common behavior for them is great mobility, when they are found, they begin to wriggle strongly and try to "escape", descending on cobwebs. Caterpillars of leaf rollers feed on leaves and buds. At the same time, the leaves are wrapped along the length or width of the leaf, which is why they are called leaf rollers.

Control measures: removal, burning of affected shoots together with leaves, berries; Spraying in late autumn, summer (2-3 times in 2 weeks) with copper-containing preparations that prevent the reproduction and development of the fungus.

A distance of 1-1.2 m should be left between the rows, and 50-60 cm between seedlings in a row.

To transplant raspberries, you need strong root shoots that come from the raspberry bush, they will be the planting material. If you transplant raspberries in late autumn, they may not have time to take root and freeze in winter.

There are also folk remedies that will help you cope with the scourge of pests and diseases. For example, pine needles can be used as a prophylaxis in the fight against gray rot, spreading them along the bushes. Herbal infusions that have insecticidal properties will also help: yarrow, dandelion, onions. Regular garlic will cope with fungal diseases.

Planting and transplanting raspberries, caring for seedlings

Pouring cold water on top will lead to disease.

Eurasia

Use a mosquito repellent against raspberries - infusions of tobacco, mullein, walnut leaves, bird cherry, nettle, wormwood, etc. Spray in the evening, since mosquitoes begin their action at nightfall and all night.

In the spring, as soon as the buds begin to bloom on the stems, I do pinching - I cut the buds from below with ordinary scissors to a height of 50-80 cm, depending on the length of the shoot. These kidneys are unproductive.

In a new location, it is best to plant raspberries after potatoes, onions or tomatoes. Planting pits are prepared in advance, in fact, a year before planting. At the end of July, it is necessary to dig holes half a meter in depth, width and length. The gap between them should be about the same as their width. Each planting hole should be filled with a bucket of rotted manure, compacted, and covered with earth on top. It is advisable to pre-fertilize the land: 35-40 grams of ammophos, 10 grams of potassium salt or 60-80 grams of wood ash.

That do not have the ability to branch - Bryanskaya, Meteor, Solnyshko, Balsam, Kombi, Sputnitsa, Brigantine, Latham, Prussen Berlin, others. Pinch up to 10 cm of the top of the young replacement shoot.

Control measures: effective late-autumn and summer spraying with actellik. In early spring, before bud break or in late autumn, spraying with preparation No. 30 is effective.

With this disease, light yellow spots appear on the upper part of the leaves, a little later in the same places, but orange-yellow pimples are visible from the bottom of the leaf, which eventually acquire a dark rusty color - these are fungal spores. The fungus that causes the disease hibernates on fallen leaves The main methods of reproduction are seeds, vegetative propagation. Seed propagation in amateur gardening is practically not used. Plants normally grown in this way rarely take on the valuable qualities of the original parent varieties. The vegetative method involves using young shoots from the roots (root suckers) or dividing the bush for reproduction. This is the cheapest, fastest way.

Now you can start transplanting raspberry offspring. Carefully dig out the sprouts along with the root system and transplant into prepared, fertilized holes. After that, trim the tops of the plants by 10 centimeters and tie them to the pegs.

It is necessary to process the bushes only in cloudy weather, and during the flowering period all work is temporarily stopped.

Http://www.sadurad.ru/bolezny_malin_hloroz.htm Has erect shoots up to 1.2 m, large, dark raspberry berries 4-5 g conical in shape, dense. The beginning of fruiting is the end of July, the collection of berries lasts two months. Before winter, all stems are completely cut to the ground.

Gallice does not like onions, garlic - you can plant even perennial onions between the rows of raspberries - batun, chives and others.

I spray the stems with one percent Bordeaux liquid in order to prevent the massive spread of the didimella fungus. Spraying can also be carried out before bud break. During the growth of young shoots of replacement or overgrowth, I do three-time pinching - I cut off the lower leaves.

Raspberry pests: how to deal with gall midge

The next year, we select replacement shoots from the bushes at the end of July and the first half of August, or transplant well-developed offspring of raspberries to prepared places. After planting, the tops of each plant should be trimmed by only 10-15 cm. It is advisable to tie the plants to a peg or trellis. Sprinkle each well with plenty of water (6-8 liters). Two or three days later, it is useful to fertilize raspberry seedlings with strawy rabbit droppings or any other organic fertilizer.

Gallica

All undersized varieties of raspberries do not need pinching. Usually these are those that give many shoots of replacement, or deliberately form a bush, leaving many fruiting stems or branches of replacement, in total up to 20 and more.

Aphids suck juices from raspberry leaves, from shoots, berries. In this case, the affected leaves curl, the shoots stop growing. Aphids are dangerous because they are a carrier of viral diseases.

Control measures: spraying fallen leaves with copper-containing preparations. In the spring, the first spraying is obligatory after the leaves bloom, the second spraying after two weeks.If you do not take care of the plantings of raspberries, then it will overgrow with weeds, which greatly deplete the bushes. Few young shoots are formed, they are weak. The berries become small, their taste deteriorates, and the yield decreases Water each raspberry bush, 6-8 liters each. Over the next couple of days, mulch the raspberry planting area with fresh rabbit droppings and spray the bushes with a spray bottle if there is no rain. Make sure that the soil does not dry out, but is constantly moist. Thanks to such a transplant, raspberries will take root well and quickly.Raspberries, which are taken care of according to all the rules, will delight you with a rich and tasty harvest throughout the season. But a lot depends not only on pruning and pest control, but also on feeding.

Physiological chlorosis. Physiological chlorosis is a consequence of unfavorable external conditions.

Young Shoot of Raspberry Raspberry Penguin

A good effect is obtained from the organized, simultaneous, timely work of all gardeners to combat gall midge.

From the beginning of July, I begin to cut out the stems that have borne fruit in early varieties, then in the middle ones, and by mid-July I finish cutting the stems in late-fruiting raspberries. The goal is to prevent the spread of didimella fungus in a timely manner.

If you do everything in this way, then raspberries will take root well before frost. In the first year after planting, it will give a good harvest.In any year, pinching should be done on no more than 50% of the replacement shoots.

Control measures. Bi-58 is effective against aphids.

Signs of the disease: white-dirty spots appear on the leaves. Spores of the fungus overwinter on fallen leaves.

Autumn digging of row spacings is required. First, remove excess young shoots, and then dig up the soil between the rows.

Before the onset of frost, carefully spud all the raspberry bushes so as not to damage the roots. Remove weeds and water the raspberries regularly for a rich harvest.

Transplanting bushes is required to maintain a high-quality harvest at a high level, since several seasons after planting seedlings, the plant takes all the nutrients from the soil. This leads to the fact that the bushes begin to wither over time, and the quality of the berries decreases. Experienced gardeners note that it is not advisable to grow raspberries for more than 3-4 years in one place. At the same time, the land must be properly prepared before work: we dig up, destroy weeds, and add mineral and organic additives, including manure and ash, to the holes for future bushes.

Chlorosis manifests itself in the yellowing of leaves, ends of shoots, fruiting brushes and sepals. Affected bushes are more leafy than healthy ones, their berries are small, one-sided, dry. The disease manifests itself especially strongly during the period from leaf blooming to the end of fruiting.

Later, the same scientists of the Kokinsky strong point received a standard remontant grade

Watch the video to see how raspberry stems look like stem gall midges. Just want to warn you, the authors of the video advise treating raspberries with drugs against leaf-eating pests. This method will not work against gall midge.

Then I proceed to the main spraying with one percent Bordeaux liquid or any other copper-containing preparation of young shoots of replacement and overgrowth. I spray the exposed part of the shoots to the first leaves, because on remontant varieties at this time there is a massive flowering, fruits begin to set. Spraying is carried out at the end of the day, when there are no bees. The goal is to prevent the incidence of young shoots with didimella Method 2. A pinch done later in July, for example, gives negative results. Lateral literal branches will grow short, do not have time to woody well before the first autumn frosts, that is, the epidermis of the shoots will be frost-resistant, and even if it withstands the first autumn frost, it may freeze out in Christmas or Epiphany frosts, or will not be able to withstand a cold, long winter. Various mites do great harm to raspberries - the leaves turn pale, fall off, the berries remain small and tasteless. In late autumn, early spring, before the leaves bloom, I advise you to treat the bushes with the drug №30, before the fruits appear - Bi-58.

Control measures: as soon as the first manifestations of the disease are noticed, spray with copper-containing preparations; fallen leaves are recommended to be burned.

In the spring, before bud break (late March-April), they must loosen the soil in the raspberry tree. In the center, between the rows, it is deeper - 10-15 cm, and next to the plants - shallowly - 5-7 cm, so as not to damage the root system.

From spring to October, raspberries go through a cycle of different stages. These include flowering, ovary formation, fruit ripening, the development of replacement shoots and the establishment of flower buds of the next year. All these periods are vital for the raspberry tree, so it always needs a sufficient amount of moisture. How often raspberries should be watered determines the abundance of precipitation and air temperature.The best place in the garden for a new transplant is considered to be the beds where potatoes or tomatoes were previously grown.

The causes of physiological chlorosis are different. They are especially often associated with a high content of calcium salts in the soil. However, chlorosis can be caused by excess soil moisture, impairing oxygen access to the roots, and other causes.

Penguin

• Standard raspberry Penguin
• The female gall midge gall midges "understood" my goal, they begin to lay eggs in the upper part of the shoots - there it will be easier for us to find them. Most of all egg-laying occurs on single-yielding varieties, less on remontant raspberry varieties.
• After harvesting, remove the raspberry-bearing stems, leaving only 1-2 replacement shoots. In order for them to develop well by the end of the growing season, it is necessary to systematically remove young shoots. It is advisable to loosen the ground between the rows of raspberries, to spud the bushes, and to tie the plants to the trellis. Manure mulch should be added to the soil before hilling. If the autumn turned out to be dry, then the bushes will periodically have to be well watered.
• Late pinching on remontant raspberry varieties sharply reduces the first autumn harvest in young replacement shoots. Not all buds will bloom, not all inflorescences will be tied up, the set fruits will not all ripen, with a cold snap they may hang, not ripen for up to 10-15 days or more, and if ripe, the berries will be small.
• It should be noted that almost all types of raspberries are not resistant to bacterial cancer. Diseased plants cannot be saved; they must be destroyed. Preventive measures for seedlings before planting are relatively effective. Carefully select seedlings before buying, examining the roots - there should be no growths, thickenings. There are no drugs against bacterial raspberry cancer yet. Do not plant it in the place of plants removed due to disease for 2-3 years. The soil can be improved by planting legumes in this area for several years.

Of the viral diseases, the most famous are: yellow mosaic, witch's broom, yellow leaf venation, viral (infectious) chlorosis.

Raspberry tree or standard raspberry: varieties and care

From the beginning of the appearance of the leaves and before picking the berries, they loosen two more times.

Raspberry bushes planted in spring must go through a rooting process, and for this they need moisture. Watering at this time is carried out as the soil dries out, keeping it moist for one and a half months after planting.Raspberries need to be planted in a trench in several rows, while the minimum distance between them should be about 1.2 m. watering raspberries - one bush requires about 10 liters of water. Caring for raspberries in the spring also consists in feeding, which should be carried out immediately after the winter cold. In April, it is best to introduce fresh mullein or chicken droppings, which will lead to active growth of new shoots. For reliability, under each bush, you can put mulch prepared from manure.A number of researchers have proven that diseased plants turn green after transplanting into good soil conditions. In this case, complete greening of the leaves occurs 40-50 days after transplantation. This indicates that physiological chlorosis, unlike infectious (viral), is not transmitted with planting material.

Suitable for both manual and machine harvesting. The bushes are erect, non-sticking, the height of the bush is 1.1-1.3 m, the berries are dark crimson, round-conical, large 4-5 g, dense. The variety is distinguished by its high keeping quality and transportability. After ripening, the fruits can hang for up to 5 days without loss of quality. The beginning of fruiting in the Kuban is from mid-July. Fruiting is amicable until the end of August, fully yields the harvest. The second wave of harvest on late shoots from October to frost. All shoots are cut to ground level before winter.

I would like to acquaint you with the experience of Mikhail Vasilyevich Gulenin in growing standard raspberry varieties.

During the season, before the first autumn frosts, systematically, at least once a week, it is necessary to inspect the raspberry bushes, cut off the shoots with galls at the initial stage. Cut the affected shoot, find, be sure to destroy the larva, prevent it from leaving the soil.In the spring, with the onset of heat, the soil with which the raspberry bushes were covered must be leveled, slightly loosened between its rows. As in the first method of planting, the tops of the shoots should be cut off by 10-15 cm, and the damaged ones should be cut to a healthy place. When the first leaves open, they will grow a couple of centimeters, cut the roots around the bush with a full bayonet of a shovel and carefully pull the bush out of the ground. Without damaging young shoots, rhizomes, remove the remnants of old stems. Dip the roots of raspberry bushes in a clay mash. In the pits prepared in the fall by the planting method described above, plant young plants. In the autumn-spring period, take care of the soil by watering the bushes, removing weeds, mulching the soil.After pinching, the period of awakening of the buds, the growth of lateral branches lasts about 10 days. If you do not pinch, then during this time the central shoot would grow up by about one meter or more. That is, pinching off the top of the central branch, we slow down the development of the plant. This slowdown has a negative effect on the autumn harvest of some remontant varieties. Some fruits do not have time to ripen before the first autumn frost.http: //ogorod23.ru/kak-vyirashhivat-malinu/ When sick with a witch's broom, numerous thin shortened shoots are formed on raspberry shoots - they become like a broom. Berries are tied much less. After harvesting, they loosen again, and then do not touch the aisles until autumn - annual shoots should ripen well.

Adult raspberry bushes need moisture only after a snowless winter and with a dry spring. With the onset of warm days, the raspberry tree is cleared of winter debris, dried and broken branches, and the degree of soil moisture is determined. If watering is really necessary, then it is carried out after the awakening of the shoots, when leaves begin to form on them, and then during the flowering period and the appearance of the ovary. A minimum of 15 liters of water is poured under each bush.

If you are going to use manure, remember that at least two years must elapse between such fertilizing. Otherwise, the shoots simply will not ripen, which means they are unlikely to survive the winter.

Control measures. Sick plants are sprayed with a 0.5% solution of ferrous sulfate or better with 1% Bordeaux liquid. The introduction of ferrous sulfate into the soil gives positive results. In humid regions, it is applied to the soil surface, followed by embedding with hoeing (100-150 grams under a bush), in arid regions it is better to water the soil under the affected bushes with a solution of ferrous sulfate (100-150 grams for 2-3 buckets of water).

Standard raspberries, like common raspberries, love well-lit areas with fertile, well-drained soil. For better lighting, it is advisable to place rows from south to north. Standard raspberry (popular name - raspberry tree) When the swellings (galls) have grown, the larvae are clearly visible. Unfortunately, this method of struggle is not always successful. You cut open the shoot, but the gall midge larva is gone, it is already in the ground. Sometimes it is simply difficult to see the Gauls in time, when they are not yet clearly expressed.

As practice shows, if we compare these two methods of planting and transplanting, then in areas where raspberries were planted with already formed leaves, the yield is much higher.

Some summer raspberry varieties tend to branch without pinching. They independently form up to 3-4 lateral branches. Such varieties do not need pinching. These are Scarlet Sail, Cascade Bryansk, Kokinskaya, Modest, Novost Kuzmina, etc. Very often on gardening sites you can find the following statement: “A very important point in caring for raspberries is pinching or pinching shoots. Pinch a young raspberry shoot - this will increase the yield several times. " At the same time, neither the variety nor its features are indicated. But the pinching method cannot be applied to all varieties of raspberries. Pinching (translated from German) - removing the top of a young shoot by pinching it with special tweezers, scissors or just fingers.In case of a yellow mosaic disease, first pale green spots appear on raspberry leaves, which then turn yellow.

Raspberries love watering. Most of all moisture is required when it blooms, when the berries are tied, when the berries ripen - from May to August. The first time (of course, if there is no rain) is watered before flowering (end of April), the second time - at the end of May. Be sure to water it 1-2 times when the berries are poured. Watered for the last time after harvest.

Watering raspberries in furrows is effective. Grooves with a depth of about 12 cm are laid along each row on both sides, and water is launched from a hose into them. The furrows are located 40 cm from the bushes so as not to damage the raspberry root system, which is close to the soil surface. The amount of water is calculated so that each bush has 20 liters. When the water is absorbed into the soil, the furrows are mulched with loose earth or humus. The next time, the grooves can be easily freed from the mulch and watering again. For irrigation, warm water is used, so it is better to do this in the evening, when it heats up during the day under the sun's rays.

Fertilize the soil to a depth of about 10 cm, since the roots of the plant are very deep.

What region if it is hot to water it is necessary at the root of the raspberry loves water.

The soil must be prepared in advance (one month in advance). A strip with a width of 60 cm is being prepared, into which buckets of humus, 150 g of nitroamofoska, and a glass of ash are added to 1 running m 2. Dig up the earth on a shovel bayonet or loosen it with a motor-cultivator.

- one of the newest promising areas of malnutrition. The first plants of this type in our country were obtained in Moscow at the Institute of Horticulture VSTISP (1987) by Professor V.V. Kichina from crossing the standard-1 donor with the Stolichnaya variety. Since 1993, this is already a new variety of Tarusa, which has become a breakthrough in Russian agronomic science.

If in the spring, above the swelling, the buds do not bloom, cut the affected shoot lower by 1-2 cm.On the remaining stem, it can be up to 1 m or more, do not pinch (trimming the blossoming buds), they will bear fruit normally.

There are many pests who love raspberries. Various larvae, drillers, beetles, worms are creatures that feed on foliage, fruits, stems of this plant. They can cause premature yellowing or even leaf fall, can damage the berries, and deprive you of the pleasure of eating them. What are the most dangerous raspberry pests? A very dangerous pest that can significantly reduce the yield, and sometimes completely destroy your raspberry tree, is the gall midge. The main feature is the thickening of the stems, growths on them. How to deal with gall midge, improve the quality and quantity of the crop?

Of the remontant varieties, for example, I pinch only Indian Summer, since the variety after pinching gives up to 15-17 lateral branching laterals.

Pinching is one of the methods of agrotechnical measures for caring for bushes, their formation, and increasing the yield of raspberries. It is used to stop the growth of the main shoot upwards, to form a crown, to enhance the growth of the left branches. This method is used to "wake up" part of the buds on a young shoot, thus forming several lateral branches (laterals).

With yellow venation of the leaves, yellow stripes appear along the veins.

Watering rate - 1-2 buckets of water for one plant. It is most convenient to water through the furrows, which are made on both sides of the row at a distance of 20-25 cm from the bushes.

Some gardeners use drip irrigation under bushes or sprinkler irrigation. Drip irrigation has advantages when watering raspberries planted on the slope of the site - the water is gradually absorbed into the soil without washing it out from under the bushes. Drip irrigation under the root can be carried out throughout the day.

Why does raspberry turn yellow?

Konfitiur

Do not use insecticides too often for treatment.

Sayan

Wants to drink

Ajk

Raspberries can be planted from mid-September to late autumn, in spring from early March to late April, and even in winter if soil and weather permits.

Tatiana Pavlova

At the end of the 90s, the standard variety Krepysh was obtained at VSTISP, in the early 2000s - Skazka.
The second type is a stem gall midge.

The repairing variety Progress does not need to be pinched, since this is a late autumn fruiting variety. A fruit twig, like a bunch of grapes, grows alone at the top of a young replacement shoot, with a total number of buds, inflorescences, fruits up to 300, sometimes up to 400. If you pinch, then there will be no such bunch. 2-3 lateral lateral branches will appear, they will bloom, some of the fruits will be tied, and they will not have time to ripen before the first autumn frosts. As a rule, the bunches together with the branch branches freeze, you have to cut everything off. The remaining young shoots are low, and the summer raspberry harvest decreases the following year.

The first time I first learned about such a method of increasing the yield of raspberries was from the fifteen-year-old magazine “Family. Earth. Harvest". I tried it. It didn't work out right away. But I can already draw some conclusions. Now I successfully use the pinching of young shoots in my area. Caring for this berry crop consists in timely pruning, watering or fertilizing. And pinching young shoots perfectly complements them. However, this method cannot be used on all raspberry varieties.

Sergei Kudryashov

With infectious (viral) chlorosis, by the middle of summer, the leaves turn yellow, first along the veins, and then the entire leaf turns yellow, like in autumn.

Hedgehog

Immediately after planting, the raspberry stalks are cut off, leaving hemp 20-25 cm high. In the second year, 2-3 young shoots are left - the rest are cut with pruning shears to the ground, leaving no stumps.

Sprinkling is applied in flat open areas, well ventilated, where there is no stagnation of air and high humidity. The sprinkler turns on in the early morning hours, and turns off when the sun has not yet begun to bake. Sprinkling is carried out in the evening when the heat subsides.

How to water tomato seedlings

Caring for raspberries - a completely unpretentious crop - consists of pruning, watering, feeding and protecting from pests. All these issues will be covered in detail in our article. Here, the reader will find tips for caring for raspberries in the spring, summer and autumn months.

How to care for raspberries in spring

Raspberry care in the spring begins immediately after the snow cover disappears. After waiting for the moment when the air temperature begins to stably exceed 5 degrees Celsius (in central Russia this occurs in the first ten days of April), they begin a thorough revision of the landings.

The purpose of the audit is to identify the consequences of wintering and all the shortcomings of autumn pruning. If the shoots that gave the crop were not cut in the fall due to the onset of early frosts or premature snowfall, this should be done right now. Fruiting vines are cut at the root, leaving no stumps. After that, young shoots are examined, cutting off the frozen areas on them.

In plants that did not bind and did not bent to the ground in the fall, most often the very tops freeze, therefore only dead areas are removed (up to the first living bud). The rest of the raspberry vine, gaining strength, will be ready to bear fruit.

After completing the revision and removing all old and damaged shoots, they immediately begin to clean the raspberry tree from old grass and last year's leaves with their obligatory burning. This is done for two reasons:

• Old foliage can be affected by fungal, bacterial or viral contamination, so it is not suitable for laying in a compost pit.
• In the litter of last year's grass and leaves, the main pests of raspberries winter, crawling out of the shelter with the onset of the very first warm days, so the main task of the gardener is not to miss a favorable moment for their destruction.

Vines, tied up in autumn and bent to the soil for the winter, should be immediately released, otherwise sudden frosts can destroy the swelling buds (being near the ground, they wake up to life a little earlier than those on the shoot).

Performing the very first spring work in the raspberry tree, it is very important not to trample the soil in it. Experienced gardeners avoid this by using lightweight board paths.

Pruning and garter

Spring pruning of raspberries is a two-step process.

1. During the first stage, weakened, severely damaged and frostbitten shoots are removed, as well as thinning of the plantings (too dense thickets reduce the yield of raspberries). If raspberries are grown in a strip method, the optimal planting density is 25 vines per linear meter; with bush cultivation, no more than 12 shoots are left. In thinned plantings, the shoots receive a sufficient amount of sunlight and nutrients. The vines, the stems of which are damaged by the larvae of the raspberry stem gall midge, are to be removed first. On bare shoots that have not yet acquired foliage, the habitats of these pests can be found without the slightest difficulty: they look like swellings located in the lower part of the stems.
2. The second stage of pruning occurs at the time of bud break. The tops of all vines are pruned to the first bud that has survived the winter well: this is indicated by its normal color and size, which is no different from the rest of the buds. All tops are subject to pruning, even those that are not frozen: this stimulates the formation and fruiting of additional shoots.

Correctly executed spring pruning of raspberries helps to obtain a bountiful harvest and increases the duration of fruiting.

An equally important point is the correct garter of raspberry vines. This is especially true for varieties that bend under the weight of their own fruits. The most popular type of support is trellis. The columns for the supports are hammered along the edges and in the middle of each row, and a wire is pulled between them (the height of the upper crossbar is 100-120 cm, the height of the lower one is 60-80 cm). Each vine is not too tightly tied to the crossbars in two places, using hemp twine or strips of soft cloth for this. A properly tied bush should be upright and not topple over.

If stakes are used as supports, then, after driving them between the plants, half of the shoots from two adjacent bushes are tied to them (each stem is tied separately). This type of garter, which does not shade the plants, also makes it easier to pick the fruit.

Fertilizer, top dressing in spring

Caring for raspberries in the spring involves the mandatory introduction of additional dressings. This is especially true for plants planted in depleted soil. Experienced gardeners produce spring feeding of raspberries according to the following scheme:

• The first top dressing - nitrogen fertilizers - is applied to freshly thawed and not yet loosened soil, barely free from snow (for each square meter - 15 g of ammonium nitrate or 10 g of urea). In order to neutralize the acidifying effect of ammonium nitrate (raspberries do not like acidic soils), along with its introduction, it is recommended to pour a glass of wood ash under each vine. Instead of ammonium nitrate, you can add potash: having nitrogen in its composition, it does not contribute to soil acidification. Fertilization should be preceded by abundant watering. Complex top dressing can be prepared independently by mixing one part of potassium and ammonium nitrate with two parts of superphosphate. To prepare a working solution, 100 g of the prepared mixture is dissolved in 10 l of water.
• After loosening the substrate, it is mulched with organic fertilizers: straw manure, humus or peat compost.
• In May, you can feed raspberries (500 g of manure per 10 liters of water). For processing 1 sq. meter of soil requires 5 liters of solution.

Gardeners who prefer to feed raspberries exclusively with organic matter, instead of mineral fertilizers, use:

• Fresh mullein diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10.
• Litter of rabbits and goats (solution formula 1:10) or poultry (one part to 20 parts water).
• Infusion of comfrey and nettle. 1 kg of freshly picked greens of these herbs is poured with a bucket of cold water and insisted, stirring daily, for a week. 1 liter of the finished infusion is diluted in 10 liters of water and raspberries are fed (to feed one bush, you need 2 liters of product).

Spring tillage methods

When caring for raspberries after winter, gardeners should avoid digging up the soil, even between rows, for fear of damaging the roots, the depth of which does not exceed thirty centimeters. Digging up row spacings is permissible only in autumn.

In spring, the soil in the raspberry tree is mulched, that is, it is covered with a thick (up to 15 cm) layer of mulch. As a mulching material, you can use the remains of cereals, humus, rotted straw or compost. The mulching process should be preceded by a procedure of deep (up to ten centimeters) loosening and abundant watering.

Mulching prevents the depletion of the substrate, contributes to the long-term preservation of moisture under the bushes and the supply of the root system with a rich complex of nutrients. The mulching method is contraindicated only in relation to very wet soils: it is enough to loosen them and apply fertilizers.

The raspberry root system tends to grow, capturing large areas. To prevent this process, it is necessary to make a raspberry fence. To do this, it is enough to dig in a strip of galvanized iron or sheet metal around its entire perimeter (the width of the strip should be at least twenty centimeters). Thanks to this barrier, the raspberry tree will remain in the place provided to it.

Pest control

Early spring is the most favorable time to prevent attacks of the main raspberry pests: raspberry beetle, shoot gall midge, raspberry weevil and stem fly. Timely removal of dry branches and a layer of fallen leaves (with their obligatory burning) from the raspberry tree, in which these pests hibernate, partially solves this problem.

The second point of raspberry pest control is spraying the shoots before the buds open.

• Spraying with a fungicide, a Bordeaux liquid, has a detrimental effect on all pests.
• To get rid of the raspberry beetle in early spring (shortly after the snow melts), raspberry shoots and the soil under it are generously sprayed with a nitrafen solution (200 ml of the drug per bucket of water). Excellent results are obtained by double treatment of bushes with solutions of agravertine and phytoverm.
• A solution of fufanon (15 ml per bucket of water) or actellik (in the same dosage) will help to cope with the larvae of raspberry gall midge.
• To make it difficult for overwintered stem flies to emerge from shelters during early spring, the trunks are covered with a thick layer of mulching material. In the first decade of May, raspberry shoots are treated with solutions of agravertine, actellik or phytoverm.

Summer care features

Caring for planting raspberries in the summer consists of:

• implementation of regular watering;
• weeding weeds:
• loosening row spacings (if the trunks are sprinkled with mulch) or the entire raspberry tree (in the absence of mulching material);
• monitoring the condition of the foliage (all yellowed and drying leaves should be immediately removed and burned);
• timely removal of all shoots that appear during the summer months (only the necessary number of young plants that appeared at the very end of the summer season are left for seedlings).

In the summer, the raspberry tree should be treated twice with fungicide solutions. One spraying should precede the flowering process of the bushes, and the other should be done immediately after its completion.

How to water

The correct organization and method of irrigation can affect the yield of raspberry vines. The watering schedule depends on the air temperature, as well as on the intensity and frequency of precipitation. Most of all, raspberries need water during the period when there is a massive flowering, setting and ripening of berries. In dry years, the yield of raspberries, lacking moisture, can decrease by three times.

In the last month of summer and at the beginning of autumn, raspberries have enough moisture obtained during natural precipitation. If summer and autumn were dry, gardeners are obliged to carry out water-charging podzimny watering.

The best option for irrigating raspberries (in terms of safety in terms of soil erosion and in terms of water saving) in the summer is the drip irrigation technique. Late autumn (water charging) irrigation is carried out by sprinkling and along irrigated furrows. Both the one and the other method of water charging irrigation should be used with extreme caution.

Sprinkling, which is able to protect plants from frost, at the same time can lead to the development of diseases that are especially dangerous for ripening berries. High humidity not only worsens the condition of the root system, but also has an extremely negative effect on the quality of fruits, reduces immunity to diseases, prevents plants from hardening in the pre-winter period, and provokes the process of secondary growth.

The specifics of autumn care

In the autumn period, after the last harvest was taken, another - final - processing of the raspberry from pests preparing for wintering is carried out. Autumn raspberry care is not a complex, time-consuming procedure.

The beginning of leaf fall is a signal that it is time to start pruning weakened shoots and fertile bushes. Rejected stems are cut at the root; at the same time far-grown young shoots are dug up.

Having removed the mulching material, it is either dug up or replaced with fresh one, and the aisles are dug to a depth not exceeding fifteen centimeters. The digging procedure is preceded by the introduction of potash and phosphate fertilizers (at the rate of 8 g per 1 square meter). It is very useful to alternate mineral and organic fertilizers: in the fall of one year, fertilize with organic matter, and the next year - with mineral fertilizers. If the gardener decided to use both those and others at the same time, they should be applied in half.

Preparation of the raspberry tree for winter requires special attention. Raspberries are not afraid of spring frosts: late flowering saves the future harvest from death, but winter frosts can cause some shoots to freeze. To prevent this from happening, you need to properly prepare the plants for wintering. At the end of September or at the beginning of October, when the crimson vines still retain their flexibility, they are bent to the ground so that after the establishment of a snow cover, they are completely covered with snow that can protect them from freezing.

This is done in one of two ways: either bending to each other and tying adjacent shoots, or by laying all the vines in one direction, tying the top of one bush to the base of another. All plants in each row are bent in this way.

On the features of caring for different varieties of raspberries

Thanks to breeders in the world, there are dozens of different varieties of raspberries that differ in terms of ripening, yield, size and color of fruits. There are varieties that bear fruit continuously throughout the growing season.

All these differences affect the specifics of caring for different varieties of raspberries.

• Black raspberry varieties Cumberland, characterized by the power of tall bushes with thick shoots, produces large (weighing 2 g), shiny and sweet berries, the taste of which resembles a blackberry. With high humidity, this variety is prone to anthracnose disease, therefore, extreme caution should be exercised when watering (if possible, it is advisable to organize drip irrigation in the raspberry tree). this variety in the same place allotted to it can be for eight years. For propagation, cuttings, seeds and horizontal layers are used.
• Standard (tree) raspberry of the Tarusa variety, often referred to as a raspberry tree and reaching two meters in height, can be grown without supports. The berries of this variety, which have a bright red color, excellent taste and intoxicating aroma, can reach 7 cm in length and weigh 15 g. To obtain a “tree” with a branched crown, pinch the top of a young seedling. The culture loves light, abundant and frequent watering, loose soils with a large amount of trace elements and minerals, feeding with organic and mineral fertilizers, and regular weeding. Before wintering, seedlings of the first growing season must be insulated by covering the soil under it with a thick layer of mulch. Removal of fruiting branches is carried out at the end of July. The formation of bushes is carried out at the end of September: the top of the plant is cut off and all weakened shoots are removed, leaving no more than 6 strong stems. The raspberry tree often suffers from pests and diseases, so it is necessary to constantly prevent their appearance.
• Repaired raspberry variety Hercules, which gives two harvests during the season, is distinguished by the huge (weighing up to 15 g) size of ruby-red berries with a pleasant sour-sweet taste. Grow it in sunny areas. Strong bushes that require good lighting and ventilation are planted at 80 cm intervals and with a 1.5-meter gap between rows. The variety requires regular watering and fertilizing, soil mulching. After collecting the last berries, the aerial part of the shoots is cut to the root: this is the guarantee of an excellent harvest for the next season.

Raspberries need care not only in spring or autumn. In summer, when it has a lot of crops, the ambient temperature is high, drought, it needs proper watering and top dressing more than ever. Taking care of raspberries in the summer is not difficult, but a must. Its subtleties will be discussed in the article.

How to water properly?

Watering is done as the soil dries up. Abundant watering is necessary for raspberries at the beginning of summer, when flowering and development of leaves, during dry periods and when berries ripen. If there is little water, the berries will be sour or shallow.

Excessive watering when caring for raspberries in the summer is just as harmful as insufficient. In this case, the berries will be watery, very soft and the root of the plant may begin to rot.

Watering raspberries

Experts recommend making a drip irrigation system. It is simpler, easier and takes much less time. If necessary, the flow of water into the soil can be regulated. So, for example, in rainy weather, the system is turned off, and in drought, more pressure is applied. The advantages of drip irrigation are that the water flows directly under the root, and this allows you to save leaves and berries from burning out in the sun.

It is better to water in the evening, when the heat subsides and right under the root, if the drip system is not established. It is important to keep an eye on the soil - it should not be dry or cracked.

What and when to feed?

Check out these articles as well

Caring for raspberries in the summer , do not forget about feeding. The first is produced in the form of spraying. This should be done after the plant has bloomed.

After the berries have appeared on raspberries, it needs to be fed with ammonium nitrate and superphosphate. The first one is taken 20 grams, the second - up to 40 g per linear meter. The listed mineral fertilizers can be replaced with organic matter. The plant will support and nourish the poultry manure solution. For 1 part of the litter, take 15 parts of water. About half a bucket of solution is needed per meter of row.

How to deal with diseases and pests?

Some diseases predominantly affect raspberries in the summer. If you deal with them correctly, then in a short period of time the problem will disappear.

In summer, pests are also very harmful. Raspberries can be overcome by: aphids, raspberry beetle, stem fly, raspberry mite, spider mite, shoot raspberry gall midge, raspberry kidney moth, raspberry stem gall midge.

They fight against them by spraying with special complex substances even before the flowering of the plant. A solution of fufanon helps well: 10 ml of the product per 10 liters of water. 2 liters is enough for about 10 bushes. An alternative is Intivir. It is sold in tablets (1 tablet per 10 liters of water). For 10 bushes, no more than 1.5 liters of the product are used.

In addition, it is necessary to remove damaged and diseased stems, leaves, berries or flowers - this is very important to prevent spread. Beetles are also harvested and burned or crushed to keep them from creeping over the raspberries.

What additional procedures are required?

• Processing of new shoots. Raspberries grow very quickly. New shoots can be seen in spring. If sprouts appear in the summer, they must be transplanted to the correct place or removed altogether. In the absence of control, the crop will grow so much in a couple of years that it will then be difficult to move between its rows.

However, summer shoots are not recommended to be replanted for further cultivation. This can be done, but the resulting raspberries will be painful and will not yield the desired yield, so it is best to simply remove them. For reproduction, it is worth taking strong shoots that have appeared in autumn or spring.

A shrub like raspberry is very demanding for delicate care of it. Although it needs moisture, it rarely needs to be watered, observing a large amount of consumed water.

special instructions

Raspberries, although moisture-loving, do not like constant rains. Therefore, when drawing up a plan for irrigating the soil for it, it is necessary to adhere to the instructions given below.

1. During the entire season, raspberries should be watered seven times. But these irrigations must be approached with special care. At high temperatures in the summer, it tries to compensate for the lack of moisture by absorbing evaporation from the soil.
2. The depth of water penetration must be at least forty centimeters. This will increase the humidity and evaporation that will come from it during the sun.

Rules you can't do without

If the weather is very dry, then it is necessary to irrigate the soil once a week, two or three buckets per shrub. It is important to keep the soil moist. After that, it is necessary to loosen the top layer of the earth. Watering should always be done in the evening, when the sun goes down. This is done so that moisture does not evaporate under the burning rays of the summer sun.

After watering and loosening the soil, you need to mulch the soil. This will prevent moisture from evaporating quickly, and in winter it will prevent the roots of the shrub from freezing. For mulching, peat, rotted sawdust, hay or foliage are used.

It is advisable to rid it of weeds in time. Since the superficial root system of the bush is subject to strong oppression from weeds.

What methods of watering do gardeners use

For irrigation of areas with shrubs, two types of irrigation are used. The first will be the usual method used by all summer residents since Soviet times. This is the beds between the rows of raspberries to fill with water from a hose.

Another method would be more correct. This is drip irrigation. It maintains constant moisture for the plant, which is so necessary for it. And the main thing when calculating the creation of an irrigation system is to take into account the climatic zone in which it grows.

Drip irrigation frequency

To find out how often you need to water the raspberries, you need to resort to several methods.

The first method is visual. To do this, you need to squeeze a clod of earth from the garden in your hands. If the lump quickly disintegrates after compression, then there is not enough water. If it lasts a long time, then watering is not needed at this time.

Another way is determination with instruments. If more than half of the soil moisture is used, watering should be started.

Therefore, you need to carefully monitor the humidity.

How to do drip irrigation with your own hands

In order to create such moistening of the earth with our own hands from improvised means, we need:

• capacity of about two hundred liters;
• outlet pipe with a diameter of 32 mm;
• garden hoses;
• internal and external droppers.

The container should be installed at a height of about two meters above the specified area. In the place where the outlet pipe will be attached, it is advisable to put a filter so that the droppers do not get clogged and do not have to be changed every year. The container, in turn, must be protected from debris and leaves.

Internal droppers can be made by hand simply by perforating the hose, if there are no special devices. External ones can be purchased at hardware stores.

The rules for this watering involve keeping the soil moist at all times.

You can watch the video how to equip your own raspberry growing area.

Drip irrigation of remontant raspberries

The fact is that the remontant raspberry variety differs from the usual one by the speed of growth and ripening of the crop. She is able to grow in one year and give a crop. Therefore, there are a number of features of its drip irrigation. They help maintain increased yields and growth.

Important! In order for the shrub to actively grow and produce a crop, it is necessary to ensure the air exchange process of raspberry rhizomes. Too moist areas suffer from a lack of oxygen. When maintaining soil moisture at sixty and eighty percent of the lowest moisture capacity, it gives high crop yields, does not change the biochemical composition and does not increase the content of heavy metals in the berry.

Such a berry is watered after harvesting. Before hibernation, hibernation sheds the soil especially well. It is also often watered during periods of drought. The shrub needs to be regularly watered during the summer.

Watering raspberries in summer

When the berry blooms and the ovaries are formed, this shrub needs water most of all. Therefore, it is necessary to adjust the regularity of watering.

Features of summer watering

With frequent rains, it is necessary to water the berry about once a week. And in dry weather, preferably every day and in the evenings, when the sun has already gone down.

Summer care rules

It is advisable to do automated watering. Drip irrigation will thoroughly shed the soil without touching the leaves. In this case, water flows to the rhizomes of the plant, thereby ensuring the rate of moisture production.

Important!Water should flow directly to the roots of the bush. It is not necessary for it to fall on the leaves or shoots of raspberries.

How many times should raspberries be watered

The bush is watered for the first time in May, and also once in June and July. In August, gardeners are guided by the climatic conditions of the country in which they live. The penultimate time the raspberries are watered is in October and the last one is carried out before the plant is put into hibernation.

How to water raspberries with urea solution in spring

Urea is the scientific name for urea. It is a fertilizer that contains a lot of nitrogen.

In the spring, twenty grams of urea is diluted in ten liters of water and a square meter of shrub is spilled. Such feeding will ensure good growth and yield of the berry.

Conclusion

Now we have learned how to water and care for the most delicate and delicious berry. If you follow these tips, the shrub will delight you with its harvest all summer long with fresh berries, and the winter in the form of delicious raspberry jam.