Plasterboard ceiling from a to z. Plasterboard suspended ceiling. Video - Installing a false ceiling

Today we will figure out how to install the simplest single-level plasterboard ceiling with our own hands. In another way, it is also often called a suspended ceiling. We will consider in detail the advantages and disadvantages of drywall, what will be needed for its installation, marking the ceiling, the procedure for installing the frame and its cladding, how and how to seal the joints of gypsum plasterboards, and also how to avoid the appearance of cracks. Go!

Pros and cons of drywall as a material for finishing the ceiling before plastering

The main advantages of the material:

• Drywall allows you to level surfaces of any curvature, while the maximum layer of plaster on the ceilings cannot exceed 15 mm;
• GK allows you to easily hide (or at least disguise) existing communications and structures: wires, pipes, beams;
• A plasterboard ceiling allows you to fulfill almost any of your fantasies in terms of lighting;
• Design: countless shapes, two, three levels, lighting niches;
• Relative lightness of construction;
• The possibility of using heat and sound insulation;
• No "wet" processes during installation - no need to wait several days for the surface to dry.

Disadvantages of drywall:

• A serious decrease in the height of the room (depending on the curvature of the original ceiling and the possible need to install recessed luminaires) by at least 5 cm;
• The relative complexity of installation and the need for tools such as a hammer drill and a screwdriver (read how to choose a screwdriver);
• Potential future cracks at sheet joints (we will figure out how to avoid this);
• The need for a partner's help.

Knowing all the pros and cons of drywall, one cannot definitely recommend or not recommend it. Everything follows from the analysis of a particular room, but in most cases, its use is still preferable.

In this article, we will consider the most common way of installing a false ceiling with your own hands - one level on straight suspensions.

Tools and accessories

Required accessories for plasterboard ceiling:

1. Profile guides PN 28 × 27 mm.
2. Ceiling profiles PP 60 × 27 mm.
3. Sealing tape.
4. Wedge anchor.
5. "Dowel-nails" (ordinary dowels and self-tapping screws will not work, since the holes in the profiles are larger than the caps of the self-tapping screws - 8 mm, and more fuss with them).
6. Cord breaker device.
7. Hydro level / laser plane builder.
8. Bubble building level 2 m.
9. Rule aluminum 2.5 m.
10. Drywall sheets.
11. Putty for GK seams (Uniflot).
12. Reinforcing tape for seams (serpyanka).
13. Roulette.
14. Hammer.
15. Stationery knife (or special knife for cutting HA).
16. Perforator + drill.
17. Screwdriver.
18. Self-tapping screws for metal 25–35 mm (black, frequent step).
19. Self-tapping screws with a press washer.
20. Acrylic primer.
21. Single-level connectors CRAB.
22. Scissors for metal.
23. Heat and sound insulation materials (if required).
24. Profile extensions (if required).
25. Spatula set (narrow, wide and for corners).

In the picture, all the accessories follow in order:

It should be noted right away that much of what is now sold in hardware stores under the guise of profiles and suspensions is just foil. We offer to opt for Knauf products - you can find out their profiles and sheets by the corresponding stamp.

A few words about the hydro level. It consists of two small flasks of water, connected by a thin tube. The principle of its operation is based on the law of physics about communicating vessels, which makes the marking of the horizontal line with its help extremely accurate. When installing the ceiling, you cannot do without it (unless, of course, you have a laser level), because marking the entire perimeter of a room with a bubble level is not a quick or easy task.

With the hydro level, we will only need to put marks on the corners, and then connect them using a "skip" (this is the simple name of the breaker device). There are many types of drywall sheets. We only need to know two things: ordinary and moisture resistant. It is unnecessary to say something more about the first type, but the second is used in rooms with high humidity, that is, in kitchens and bathrooms due to the reduced moisture absorption achieved through the use of hydrophobic additives in gypsum. It is very simple to distinguish these two species from each other - by color. Regular drywall has the color of plain cardboard - gray. Moisture resistant sheets are greenish in color. For ceilings, sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm are most often used.

Now about the sealing tape. It is self-adhesive, made of a porous polymer material, width - from 30 mm. It is necessary for the tight mating of the frame elements with the supporting structures, and it also improves the acoustic properties of our ceiling. In addition, it is believed that it plays a significant role in crack protection, allowing the structure to expand / contract slightly.

Marking, fastening guides

First, we need to define the lowest corner of the room. We take a tape measure and measure the distance from floor to ceiling in each corner, it is also advisable to do this in the center of the room, just in case - you never know, suddenly the ceiling is sagging. We found the lowest angle, retreated 5 cm (if built-in lamps are not planned) or 8 cm (if planned), put a mark. From this mark, using a hydro level, set aside the horizontal line to all other corners. Now it remains to connect the marks with a skip. Together with an assistant, pull the cord properly between the marks on one wall, pull it back with your free hand and release it sharply. The cord, hitting the wall, will paint it - here is the finished horizontal line. We do the same on all walls. Here's what we get:

It's time to fix the guide profiles on the walls. To do this, first attach one of them to the wall along the line and mark the future holes along the finished holes with a marker (if the holes on the profile are located far from the edge, you need to make additional punchers, stepping back 5-10 cm from the edges), then set it aside for a while. We drill holes in the marked places. Again we take the profile and glue a sealing tape on it, after which we again apply it to the line and fix it to the wall with dowel-nails. One profile must have at least three attachment points. Here's what you end up with:

Next, you should mark the axes of the main profiles. But first, let's decide which profiles to call them. The main ones will be those profiles that are attached to the base with suspensions, and the bearing profiles are those that are attached only to the main ones. It is more logical to place the main profiles across (so it is less likely that they will have to be increased). The width of the sheet is 1.2 m, the spacing of the profiles should be an integer number of times smaller. Usually it is 40 cm. We mark:

Important: mark their position (both main and load-bearing) not only on the ceiling, but also on the wall under the horizontal line.

Bearings (with such a step of the main ones) are needed only at the transverse joints of the gypsum board, that is, their "step" is 2.5 m, which means that the step of the suspensions should be an integer number of times less. 50 cm is suitable for us, but the first row of suspensions will not be 50, but 50/2 = 25 cm from the wall, the next 25 + 50 = 75 cm, etc.

For marking, we take the suspension, apply it to the ceiling at the desired points and mark with a marker the places for the holes for the wedge anchor. For one suspension, at least two of them are required.

DIY step-by-step instructions for installing a false ceiling frame

We wait for the dust to settle, fill our pockets with wedges and fasten the suspensions. Do not forget to pre-stick a sealing tape on them. After fixing the hanger, carefully pull its ends down; when you subsequently fasten the main profiles, they should not bend.

Now let's start setting up the main profiles. If the width of the room is less than 3 meters, simply cut them to the length of the room minus 1 cm and insert them into the guides. If the room is larger, lengthen each profile so that the resulting profile is again 1 cm shorter than the room. Moreover, the connections of neighboring ones should not be on the same line! And there should be a suspension near the extension cord. You need to start attaching the profiles to the suspensions from the corners of the room. Your assistant will have to attach the rule to the guides on the walls that form the corner, the grip - as wide as possible so that the rule does not bend (this is very important!). Thus, it will support our PP, and it will stand on the same level with the guides. Your task is at this moment to fix it to the suspension from two sides with four (2 per side) self-tapping screws. It is better to take self-tapping screws with a press washer without a drill. You will do it longer, but everything will come out very strong. So, we fixed it near one corner, we also fasten it near the second. If it is not possible to fix the middle of the profile in this way, you should simply apply a rule along it from below, then we will fix it without problems. We bend the excess length of the suspensions up (or cut it off beforehand, as in the pictures). We control the process with a two-meter level.

Using the same method, we hang the second profile, resting so far only on the guides. Then we go to the opposite wall, mount 2 more main PCBs. If there are more between these four, we expose them, relying on the already fixed ones. But if the room is very large, we continue to go from the edges to the middle and, as soon as possible, use the already fixed profiles to expose the rest.

You can pull the cord and put it along it, but the cords tend to sag, and in this case it is much more difficult to hold the profile during vibration from the screwdriver. Let's look at our result:

Now we hang the CRABS on the places where the profiles will be joined, and fix them with four self-tapping screws, two on the side. If you lower the ceiling slightly, keep in mind that then you will have to insert CRABs into the main PCBs BEFORE installing them. In general, make sure the connectors go over the profiles.

As soon as all CRABs are in place, we cut the supporting profiles (remember the 1 cm stock) and insert into them, fixing each with four self-tapping screws. Please note that we DO NOT attach the carrier to the guide below with a self-tapping screw, but simply insert it. They will hold together when we sew on the sheets. If you want to make the ceiling soundproof, mineral wool is usually used. It is cut into rectangles slightly larger than the size of the frame cells and simply slips into them, additionally clinging to the bent suspensions. That is, roughly speaking, it hangs on the frame. Wear gloves and a respirator when working with it - it is extremely unpleasant, but you will be surprised how well it absorbs sound. It will be useful to study the article about the soundproofing of an apartment with your own hands,.

Video: Suspended ceiling from Knauf sheets

Installing drywall on the frame

Important: before starting the installation of drywall sheets, they must be acclimatized indoors - at least a couple of days. In addition, storage of BG sheets is allowed only in a horizontal position.

Before installation, it is necessary to process the edges of the sheets - with a knife to remove a chamfer at an angle of 22.5 degrees. to a depth of 2/3 of the sheet thickness (of course, approximately); this applies to end edges not covered with cardboard. The sheets should be fastened from the corner, the recommended pitch of the screws is 17 cm; on adjacent sheets, the screws should be twisted apart. We try to maintain a distance of 10 mm from the factory edge of the sheet and 15 mm from the cut by us. The heads should be slightly recessed, but do not pierce the cardboard, check by touch. It is very important to sew the sheets apart, at least one step of the main profiles (40.2 cm), and leave a small gap (2 mm) between them, by the way, between the sheets and the walls - also ... If the self-tapping screw does not stubbornly pierce the frame, discard and screw in another, stepping back from the hole 5 cm.

We also attach to the guide profile. Surely there will be people who believe that this should not be done - they say, this is what Knauf technology claims, for this it was necessary to insert the bearing profiles close to the guides. Indeed, in the materials of this company there is a drawing where there are no self-tapping screws through the guide profile.

Therefore, for the purity of the experiment, we turn to the materials of Giprok, and there we see the following:

The self-tapping screw is in place! But there is no other - the one that should be in the carrier profile! And for Knauf - the opposite!

So, we attach the sheets to the PN. Another important detail. Avoid sheet joints near the outer corner:

This rule also works for multilevel ceilings in the absence of a wall:

The joint must be at least 10 cm from the corner. Violation of this rule threatens with an almost inevitable crack.

Let's summarize what we have done so far. Here is the floor plan for the main ceiling of our virtual room:

Now we know the whole technology of installing a plasterboard ceiling and can calculate how much material we need in reality. According to the drawing, we used: 99 hangers, 8 sheets of GK, at least 19 ceiling profiles, 8 guides, at least 24 CRABs.

Sealing of seams

Before sealing the seams, they must be primed and wait until the primer is completely dry. When sealing, special extra strong putties are used. Knead a little, following the instructions on the bag. With the first layer we hammer in all the seams: both "ours" and the factory ones (first we hammer in the space between the sheet and the wall, then we apply a layer), as well as the indentations from the screws. For factory ones, you need a wide spatula. Especially carefully you should fill in the factory seams at the walls, now the main thing is that the putty does not stick out.

We are waiting for the putty to grab, and this will happen in a matter of minutes (in the case of Uniflot). For high-quality reinforcement of joints, a special paper tape Knauf Fugendeckstreifen Kurt is used. At the factory edges, the tape is placed in the Uniflot layer, after which it is covered with it. On the cut edges, you can also use Uniflot, or you can glue the tape on PVA - so that it does not stick out so much. If you glue on Uniflot, pre-wet the tape in water, otherwise it may turn out that you will not be able to expel a certain amount of putty from under the tape, and a bump will form. And if the tape is wet, the putty will glide well on it. We recommend using a special spatula at the corners - with it everything will turn out faster and better. The Kurt tape has a fold line in the center, especially for easy gluing on the inner corners. On seams with cut edges, the tape will give small protrusions, but it's okay - this is corrected by subsequent puttying of the entire surface.

Ready. We have a surface ready for subsequent filler. We have minimized the possibility of cracks in the plasterboard ceiling, but to completely eliminate this possibility, they are used. It is glued to the entire area, previously plastered, putty again and painted. Yes, it takes a lot of time and effort, yes, the price of the issue is high. But the ceiling is guaranteed not to crack.

That's basically it. Now we can make a plasterboard ceiling at home with our own hands.

The easiest way to level the ceiling surface is to make a plasterboard binder. Moreover, it is not necessary to build a complex multi-level system, it is enough to make a single-level coating of gypsum plasterboards over a metal frame. If you follow the instructions exactly, a one-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands can be made in a couple of days. It is important to select and calculate the amount of material correctly, and upon completion of the installation, prepare the surface for processing with the selected finishing material. The article will describe: installation technology, prices for work carried out by professional craftsmen.

If you decide to make a plasterboard suspended ceiling with your own hands, then first decide on the type of gypsum board and calculate the required amount of material.

Depending on the purpose and characteristics of the processes occurring in it, one of the following types of gypsum boards is used:

• moisture resistant products have a characteristic greenish surface and are suitable for installation in a damp room in a bathroom, kitchen, toilet or swimming pool;
• fire-resistant gypsum board is used in places with increased requirements for fire safety (on staircases, escape routes, in the corridors of public institutions, etc.);
• standard slabs have a gray surface and are suitable for installation in residential areas with normal humidity, for example, in a bedroom, living room, study, children's room, hallway or corridor;
• also happens wall and ceiling drywall, the latter has less thickness and weight, so it is more suitable for ceiling mounting;
• arched gypsum plasterboard is the thinnest, it is used for the manufacture of curved surfaces (when installing single-level coatings, it is not used).

Important! To calculate the required number of gypsum boards, you need to know the ceiling area. We divide the resulting value by the area of ​​one plasterboard sheet and round it up to the whole product.

Tools and materials necessary for work

Before making a plasterboard ceiling, you need to prepare the necessary materials:

• gypsum boards;
• metal profiles for assembling the frame;
• primer;
• putty;
• screws and dowels;
• necessary components (suspensions, connectors);
• serpyanka;
• dowel-nails for mounting perforated hangers;
• self-tapping screws for metal work;
• finishing material (wallpaper, paint, etc.).

From the tools you will need the following:

• puncher;
• drill;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• spatulas;
• rollers and brushes;
• pallet for primer;
• painting float;
• construction and laser level;
• chopping cord;
• pencil;
• roulette;
• ladder;
• ruler;
• scissors for metal.

Selection of profiles for the ceiling

If you are going to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, then it is important to choose the right profiles for assembling the supporting frame:

1. To assemble the guide rails on the walls, you will need PN profiles with a section of 27x28 mm and a length of up to 4 m.
2. The main frame is assembled from PP ceiling profiles with a section of 60x27 mm and a length of 300-400 cm.
3. In addition to the profile elements, you will need straight perforated hangers, as well as single-level crab connectors.

Surface preparation before installing the gypsum board

If you decide to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, then the step-by-step instructions from our article will help you. Since the surface of the suspended ceiling completely hides any defects and unevenness of the base, it does not need special preparation.

If there is an old coating that does not adhere well to the base, then it is better to dismantle it. Places with mold are cleaned up to the base ceiling and treated with an antiseptic composition so that the fungus does not appear again in the future.

At the preparatory stage, engineering communications are laid - ventilation ducts and wiring to the installation sites of the lamps. In addition, the marking of the installation sites of the frame elements is applied.

To do this, do the following:

• Find the lowest angle in the room using a laser measuring device.
• From this angle, a value equal to the height of the lowering of the new ceiling surface is laid down. The distance can be calculated taking into account the thickness of the frame, the communications to be laid and the height of the built-in luminaires.
• Using a laser level, the resulting mark is transferred to the remaining corners of the room.
• We connect all points in the corners with longitudinal lines on the walls using a chopping cord.
• On the ceiling surface we mark the installation locations of the PP profiles. Usually they are mounted with a step of 40 cm. We put dots along these lines with a step of 60 cm. These will be the places where the suspensions will be installed.

Installation of guides

First you need to assemble a structure from guide rails on the walls of the room. To do this, we drill holes in the PN profile with a step of 50 cm. We make the extreme holes at a distance of no more than 5 cm from the end of the profile. Then we apply the product to the markings on the wall surface and mark the holes.

We drill holes in the wall using a puncher. Then we hammer dowels into the holes and fasten the profile with self-tapping screws. Similarly, we mount the guide profiles along all the walls in the room.

Important! After assembling the frame from the guides, the perforated hangers are installed on the ceiling according to the previously applied markings. Each part is attached to two dowel nails.

Installation of the ceiling profile

We cut longitudinal ceiling profiles to the width of the room. We put the ends of one rail into the groove of the guides on the wall. In the central part, we attach the rail to the base ceiling surface using perforated hangers. We screw the self-tapping screws into the side shelves, and bend the excess part of the suspension ears up so that they do not interfere with the installation of drywall.

We mount the next profile in the same way at a distance of 40 cm from the previous product. Thus, each gypsum sheet will be attached to 4 profiles, which increases the reliability of the entire structure.

In a small area, the transverse short ceiling profiles can be omitted. In a large room, they are cut to length and installed in increments of 60 cm between the longitudinal slats. To fasten these parts to the frame, single-level connectors are used. Short slats are not attached to perforated hangers.

Installation of thermal insulation

If the installation of a plasterboard ceiling is carried out with additional insulation of the room, then the installation of heat-insulating materials is performed at this stage. Usually soft insulators such as mineral wool are used. Insulation plates are cut according to the width of the step with which the longitudinal elements of the frame are installed, plus 1-2 cm for tight joining.

The material is laid between the slats so that it is held in place. The ends of the insulation plates are placed as close as possible to each other so that there are no gaps. To protect the mineral wool from moisture absorption, a vapor barrier membrane is sewn to the bottom of the frame. The material is laid in strips with an overlap of 15 cm and attached to double-sided tape.

Important! The vapor barrier can be attached to the wooden crate with a stapler.

Installation of gypsum board

Installation of drywall begins from one of the corners of the room. The slab is laid along the longitudinal profiles of the frame. Moreover, each sheet must be attached to four PP-rails. The product is screwed on with self-tapping screws, which are mounted in 25 cm increments.The extreme fasteners are placed from the edge of the sheet at a distance of at least 2.5 cm.

Similarly, mount the next sheet, which is stacked close to the previous one. The longitudinal joint of the slabs must be in the middle of the ceiling profile. The outermost sheets in a row are cut in width.

Final surface treatment

Finishing the ceiling with plasterboard needs a finishing decorative coating. Various finishing options are possible - painting with interior paint, whitewashing, pasting with wallpaper or foil.

In any case, the surface of the plasterboard ceiling must be prepared:

1. All seams between the slabs must be putty using a serpyanka. A thin layer of mortar is applied to the seam, the serpyanka is pressed in and covered with a second layer of putty. The surface is well leveled.
2. Places of installation of self-tapping screws are putty.
3. After the putty mixture has dried, the treated areas are sanded with a fine grain sandpaper.
4. The surface is dedusted and treated with a primer. After the first layer of the primer mixture has dried, the second is applied. This preparation is sufficient for wallpapering the ceiling.
5. If painting is carried out, then the entire surface is putty with a finishing compound, and after it dries, it is sanded. Then the ceiling is once again treated with deep penetration soil. The surface is now ready for painting.

If the ceiling surface is relatively flat, and you do not plan to install built-in lamps and lay utilities in the ceiling space, then the installation of the gypsum board on the ceiling can be performed using frameless technology. In this case, you do not need to assemble the lathing from metal profiles or wooden bars, because the gypsum boards are simply glued to the ceiling with special glue. This installation method allows you to significantly save and speed up work.

Now you know how to make a drywall ceiling with your own hands. It is much more profitable to install the gypsum board yourself, since the price per m2 of professional installation of drywall on the ceiling is $ 10. Considering the cost of materials and finishing, the total cost can be up to $ 20 per square. That is why it is better to carry out the installation yourself, and the instructions from our article will help you do everything right.

Ceiling decoration in most cases is fraught with a lot of doubts. A wide range of materials and colors, a variety of design solutions - all this does not help to easily opt for something specific.

Why drywall?

Among the variety of finishing materials, experts advise choosing drywall. This is one of the most popular materials in our country, which, thanks to the latest developments, has recently acquired such qualities as resistance to moisture and high temperatures. In this regard, drywall can be:

The popularity of the material is due to numerous advantages, including:

• no need for complex preparatory procedures - material processing is as simple as possible;
• low cost;
• ease of processing and installation;
• wide range of applications;
• unpretentious care (you need to wipe the ceiling with a damp cloth every few months).

But there are also disadvantages:

• lack of elasticity (in which drywall loses to PVC film);
• susceptibility to moisture (if the material is not moisture resistant);
• flammability (if not fire resistant, respectively).

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Stage 1. Drafting of the project

You need a project to work. To create it, you can use one of the special architectural programs that allow you to get a ready-made scheme and the required amounts of consumables. If you do everything the old fashioned way, you will have to spend much more time and effort.

Step 1. Using a special formula, the perimeter is determined. It looks like this (if the size of the room is, for example, 5x4 m):

(5 + 4) x 2 = 18 m (P)

It turns out that the length of the guide profiles will be 18 m. Then the obtained data are displayed on graph paper.

Note! If the length of the opposite walls is different (this is quite common), then a larger indicator is taken for calculations.

Step 2. After that, you need to start calculating the frame profile. Profiles 6x2.7 cm will be used in the work - they will be fixed in increments of 0.6 m. It is important that the length of each profile is equal to the width of the room. To calculate the number of slats, the width of the room (400 cm) must be divided by a step (60 cm). As a result of simple calculations, we get: 6.66 (the amount is rounded up to 7.0).

The first and last slats are attached 10 cm from the surface of the walls, and all the others according to the above step.

Note! A step of 60 cm was not chosen by chance. The fact is that the standard width of drywall sheets is 0.6 or 1.2 m.

The rail attachment points are transferred to the project.

400/60 x 7 = 47 pieces.

The first and last suspension is attached 30 cm from the wall surface. The attachment points are indicated in the diagram with crosses. We also note that it is preferable to use spring suspensions, while straight lines are acceptable only in two cases:

• with an absolutely flat ceiling surface;
• with a construction height of more than 12 cm.

Step 4. After that, you need to determine the number of jumpers that will give rigidity to the structure.

((400/60) - 1) x 7 = 40 pieces.

Step 5. It remains only to determine the required number of screws and drywall sheets. With a known area of ​​the room (20 m²) and a sheet (3 m²), it is quite easy to do this - you will need almost five sheets of material.

There should be no difficulties with self-tapping screws either:

• Drywall will be fixed with the “thirtieth” self-tapping screws (step length - 25 cm);
• 60x6 products will be used for walls (step length - 30 cm) and ceiling (60 cm);
• screws LN11 will be used for the fittings: for "crabs" and profiles - 4 pcs., for suspensions and profiles - 2 pcs.

You also need to note the number of lighting devices and determine the length of the wiring.

Stage 2. Preparation of equipment and consumables

Of course, each master has his own list of necessary tools, since in this matter a lot depends on the skill and ability to use them. But there are those without which it is unlikely that you will be able to successfully complete the job:

Note! Depending on the characteristics of the ceiling, the list can be supplemented, for example, with clamps for joining profiles located at different heights (if there are large stones in the concrete that interfere with normal drilling), etc.

Stage 3. Guide frame

After preparing everything you need, you can get to work.

Step 1. First, use a tape measure to determine the lowest corner of the room. It is labeled:

• 5 cm from the ceiling, if the installation of built-in lighting devices is not planned;
• 9 cm if planned.

Step 2. With the help of a level, a similar height is marked in the remaining corners. After that, several more marks are placed along each wall at the height of the first point; all marks are connected with a pencil, using a stretched cord or a long ruler. Although there is another option - to mark these lines pointwise.

Step 3. A guide profile is attached to the walls. If joint seams are planned between the corners (and in large rooms there is nothing without it), then it is necessary to additionally strengthen the structure in order to avoid the elements "moving away" under its weight. Any dense material - tin, plastic or plywood - is suitable for this, which must be applied over each seam and secured to the wall with strong dowels.

Note! A special sealing tape ("serpyanka") is more suitable for this, but it is not sold in all hardware stores.

After that, the corner joints of the profile are strengthened.

Stage 4. Main ceiling profile

Step 1. As noted above, most often drywall sheets are 120 x 250 cm in size, which is why it is advisable to fix the ceiling profiles in 40 cm increments - so each sheet will be fixed at the edges and twice in the middle.

The ceiling is marked with parallel lines with a forty-centimeter pitch.

Step 2. Every 2.5 meters (that is, at the transverse joints) jumpers are attached from the same profile. Of course, if the dimensions of the sheets are different, then the distance is determined individually. At the joints, "crabs" are installed.

Step 3. Next, you need to determine the location of the suspensions. The first of them is installed 25 cm from the wall surface, all subsequent ones - with a step of 50 cm. Anchors are used to fix the suspensions (ordinary dowels will not work, because they have no thread, and the structure can be pulled out of the ceiling by gravity).

Step 4. Ceiling profiles are attached to the hangers. It is necessary to start from the corners of the room. That's it, the frame for the false ceiling is ready.

Stage 5. Thermal insulation

If desired, the suspended ceiling can be insulated by means of a special system of fasteners, which is popularly called "fungus".

Prices for popular types of insulation

Insulation

Stage 6. Installation of plasterboard sheets

First, you should understand a number of important nuances: drywall is extremely sensitive to high humidity, temperature, and deformation. Therefore, it is necessary to store the material exclusively in a horizontal position, and a few days before the start of work, move it to the room where the repair is being carried out so that it "lies down". This will allow you to adapt the structure of the material to specific conditions.

Further actions should be carried out according to the instructions.

Step 1. First, the material for those places where you need less than a whole sheet.

Step 2. The chamfer at the edge is removed by means of a mounting knife - this will provide deeper penetration of the filler material into the crevices.

Step 3. Fastening drywall starts from one of the corners, the first screw is placed 10 cm from the edge. The distance between the screws is 20 cm.

Note! The screw caps must be sunk without fail. It is also important that the screws on the "adjacent" sheets are not positioned opposite each other, but at random.

Step 4. The following sheets are installed. A small gap (about 2 mm) remains along the perimeter, the sheets are joined with a minimum shift of 1 cell. It is necessary to ensure that each sheet is attached both in the center and at the edges.

Video - Installing a false ceiling

Stage 7. Final finishing of the ceiling

Particular attention is paid to the seams, since the aesthetics of the future structure directly depends on the quality of their sealing.

Step 1. First, the seams are sealed with a primer - this will change the porous structure, it will become denser and, as a result, better absorb the putty. After that, you need to wait until the primer is completely absorbed and dry.

Step 2. Putty is applied to the heads of the screws and the seams between the sheets. To do this, you need to use only a high-quality spatula, with sharp and even edges.

It should be special, intended for seams (this point needs to be clarified in a hardware store or in the manufacturer's instructions).

Step 3. When the seams are completely dry, they should be glued with seam tape. It is characteristic that the joints are sealed with an overlap. The tape is processed with putty, and all the cracks found are repaired in parallel.

Step 4. After drying out of drywall with your own hands, do not forget about personal protective equipment. Use glasses and a respirator - they will keep you healthy.

Operating rules

1. The quality of the ceiling largely depends on the moisture resistance of the plasterboard used. The average humidity in the premises is 40-75%, as a result of which regular ventilation is desirable.
2. To increase the lifespan of the suspended ceiling, the surface should be cleaned in time. This can be done with a dry or damp cloth (in the latter case, a small amount of cleaning agent must be added to the water).
3. The use of abrasive materials is strictly prohibited!
4. So that the temperature inside the structure does not differ from the temperature in the room, the panels are removed immediately after installation. Next, a layer of vapor-proof material is laid (even if the insulation was previously installed).
5. Pencil stains can be removed with a regular eraser.
6. The internal space of the structure must be ventilated, for which a gap of about 2 mm must be left around the perimeter.

As you can see, installing a suspended ceiling is quite simple, but only with the appropriate tools and detailed instructions.

With the help of drywall, you can bring a variety of design ideas to life. Using built-in LED lights on the ceiling, performing several levels and complementing everything with side lighting - these are all the advantages of this type of construction. It is possible to make a suspended plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, although this process is not entirely simple.

But, having studied carefully all the recommendations of specialists and applying them in practice, the work will move forward much easier and easier. For curved figures on a plasterboard ceiling, special patterns are needed, along which parts are cut. In this case, you have to bend the sheets and create unusual profiles. All of these processes are doable.

Following the instructions, it is possible to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands

Restrictions on the use of the material

In order for the ceiling to be of high quality, it is necessary to purchase suitable plasterboard sheets. In a room where high humidity is not constantly present (these are bathrooms, kitchens, etc.), in principle, such material can be used. But, in other cases, drywall sheets must be moisture resistant, with a vapor-proof coating. Therefore, the paint and varnish material used to cover the sheets must create a waterproof film.

The use of plasterboard for the ceiling is not recommended in rooms where there is no heating. In this case, condensation can form on the surface, and this leads to deformation of the material. It is also risky to carry out the installation of drywall in city apartments, since there is a possibility of flooding, after which the ceiling may simply collapse.

If the neighbors have an automatic system on top to shut off the water supply, then it is advisable to use this installation method.

In general, we can say that plasterboard ceilings are common in apartments. The main thing is that the height of the room allows it, since suspended structures significantly reduce this value. If the room has a height less than 2 m 40 cm, then such a ceiling should not be made. This value can also decrease due to built-in lamps or other utilities. But, it is possible to use special lighting devices: you can use flat overhead, while saving about 5 cm or only one chandelier.

Calculation of the material and components of the ceiling

To make a frame structure on the ceiling, you must first complete a drawing. On it, mark all the dimensions of the room, which will help to significantly reduce the cost of purchased building materials. Calculate the number of profiles for the manufacture of a frame, fasteners, drywall.

Also, the drawn ceiling diagram will help determine the configurations and the correct calculation of everything necessary for installation.

Required materials for construction

Before you start installing drywall on the ceiling, you need to calculate how much material is required, given its different sizes. This will allow you to make fewer pieces and cuttings and optimally place the material on the surface. Standard sheet sizes are as follows: thickness from 9.5 mm to 14 mm, and length from 120 to 250 mm.

When placing drywall sheets on the ceiling, it is important to adhere to this recommendation: do not combine the seams and do not place them on the same line, they should be displaced by at least 50 cm.This rule applies to both longitudinal and transverse joints. Docking should be done only on a metal profile, and the seam should be in the middle.

The sheet is fixed on the CD profile with screws, they must be placed at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge of the drywall sheet.

The transverse seams must match the additional elements of the main profiles that serve as additional reinforcement for the frame. Observe the step at intervals of 20 cm. Having learned the exact length of the structure and the installed profiles (together with the transverse ones), you can calculate the number of screws by multiplying it by 5.

Tools for the job

The presence of everything necessary to complete the process speeds up the work, and also ensures a high-quality installation and further finishing of the ceiling. What you need to have:

• assembly scissors for metal;
• grinder for working with metal profiles during the construction of the frame;
• a hacksaw blade for metal with fine teeth or a special tool to cut sheets of drywall;
• screwdriver;
• puncher;
• sandpaper or float to smooth the end of the cut parts;
• special needle roller for perforation;
• yardstick;
• construction square;
• laser level, and in its absence, a dyed painting thread for line marking;
• water level at least 2 m 50 cm long;
• long rule;
• serpyanka for processing seams;
• masking tape.

Ceiling markings

This process is very responsible, since the appearance of the surface to be installed and the strength of the structure itself depend on it. Without observing all the rules, a plasterboard ceiling may not be of high quality and will not last long. The rules for high-quality installation are to inspect the surface before starting the work process for the presence of height differences.

The level will help to do this, by which you need to set the lowest point on the wall.

Start marking the ceiling, which includes the following processes:

1. Set the line where the original profile will be. In this case, it is worth considering the height if there is an intention to hide electrical wires or lighting devices under the structure. This can be from 7 to 15 cm.
2. On a nearby wall, make a mark with a marker or pencil.
3. Further, similar lines are marked on other walls using a water level.
4. After that, all lines should be connected into one solid. If all the markings are done correctly, the straight line will match.

Then you need to make a markup where the supporting guides for the suspended ceiling will be located:

1. Draw a line parallel to each other at a distance of 1250 mm along the ceiling (this is half of the drywall sheet).
2. These lines are a guideline for placing suspensions on special metal anchors (wedges or dowels).
3. Installed profiles should run both along the edges of the sheet and in the middle. When the markup will be performed, this fact must be taken into account.

The first stage of installation of the ceiling frame

Purchase a narrow metal profile UD-27 and attach it around the entire perimeter of the room. It will serve as guide profiles to hold the CD strips that will be inserted into it.

They are also needed for a strong fastening of the profile a dowel 5 cm long if the surface is made of heavy material, as well as 9 cm in the presence of a porous surface. The spacing for the location of the mounts is 35 - 40 cm.

All engineering communications must be hidden behind the suspended ceiling. Then check its operability, as well as its reliability under load.

Suspended lathing is created from metal profiles CD-6/27 with a length of 3 m or 4 m. During installation, an interval of 60 cm between them is observed, and the length should be a couple of centimeters less than the room in order to ensure thermal expansion. First, the first profile is mounted on the ceiling close to the wall, and it is inserted along the length into the UD. They are located at a distance of 60 cm from each other. Transverse inserts are made of the same material to make the structure more rigid. The distance between these profiles is also maintained at 60 cm, fastened with self-tapping screws. Thus, the drywall sheets will hold more firmly.

Second stage of installation

In order to avoid problems with the suspensions, it is important to check what kind of overlap is inside. If it is hollow, then use larger dowels (12 mm) and fasten them with thick screws. If there is a wooden surface, fasteners with a length of at least 60 mm must be used.

The CD profiles are suspended on perforated hangers. They have different sizes and it is necessary to select the most optimal option for each individual case. The remaining, excess length should be folded. They are placed at intervals of 1 m, attached to dowels in the ceiling. Fasteners should be 6 mm in diameter, and 50 mm long for one suspension 2 pcs.

The connecting parts between the longitudinal profiles and the cross members are elements called "crabs". They perfectly fix intersecting profiles at the same level. Self-tapping screws for fastening CD profiles together with hangers have a length of 10 mm. Their number must be calculated in this way: for each suspension you need 2 pieces, and add 4 more pieces. for each cross member.

To make the plasterboard ceiling even between the profiles, it is best to stretch a cord or fishing line in the amount of 3 to 5 pieces, depending on the size of the room. It is for them that the CD profile should be set. Fix the cords with screws, attaching them to the end of the UD strip. Place small washers under them, 1 or 2 mm high. This is necessary to create a gap between the line and the profile.

Once secured, the CD profile must not touch the cord.

Material cut and installation

To properly cut a sheet for a plasterboard ceiling, you must have:

• long rail;
• marker or pencil;
• sharp knife;
• roulette.

It is not difficult to complete this process, the main thing is to do everything in stages:

1. Draw a line on the sheet and cut the cardboard layer with a knife strictly along it.
2. Break the material along the line and then cut the cardboard from the back of the sheet.
3. Sand unevenness at the end with sandpaper.
4. It turns out two sheets of plasterboard with smooth edges.

When joining sheets, chamfer 1 cm wide at an angle of 45 degrees.

If you need to make a cut from the edge, you must first put a mark on the cardboard and, using a jigsaw or a hacksaw, cut in several places in the direction from the edge. Break a piece of drywall and cut the paper from the outside. When making a hole inside the sheet, you need to make a cut from three sides, and then break off the rest or cut all four sides.

On the finished ceiling frame, attach the prepared pieces of a certain size, so that one edge is pressed tightly against the wall. They are fixed to the profiles with self-tapping screws. They must be screwed in in such a way that the hat goes inside a little and does not look out. The spacing between the fasteners should be 20-25 cm. Continue this process until the entire ceiling is sewn up.

Puttying drywall surface

Completing the fixing of drywall to the profile is not the last step in this work. After that, the sheets installed on the ceiling must be primed, putty and painted. First, you need to fill the joints between pieces of drywall with a special putty so that the ceiling becomes monolithic and smooth. At the joints, a masking net or serpyanka is used so that subsequently no cracks appear in this place. First, the seam is filled with 60% putty, then the serpyanka is laid and again covered with the ready-made mixture. The mesh should be inside, only in this way it will hold the solution tightly, preventing cracks.

Areas where self-tapping screws are located are also closed in order to veil the holes formed. To do this, use a small putty knife and putty in different directions to hide the grooves. After all, if you do not do this after applying the first layer of the mixture, during drying it will be drawn in and you will get a hole.

After drying, the putty areas must be sanded with a trowel net or fine-grained sandpaper.

A layer of primer should be applied on a flat and dry surface and allowed to dry. Then cover the entire ceiling in several layers with a putty mixture. Allow time for complete drying each time so that the surface is smooth and beautiful. Inspect the entire ceiling carefully for sagging or irregularities. If any defects are found, the ceiling must be cleaned so that it is perfectly flat, without flaws. Now you can paint.

During the installation of the ceiling, you should pay attention to the following important points:

• the temperature in the room during operation must be at least +15 degrees;
• the purchased sheets must be brought into the room and let them lie in a horizontal position for a while for acclimatization;
• fix the self-tapping screws strictly at 90 degrees and deepen them by a few millimeters so that they do not protrude on the surface of the ceiling.

Drywall has acquired the status of an irreplaceable material for renovation in an apartment. What is not done only from it: various arches, niches, line the walls. We have already talked about multi-level structures, but we have not yet had time to mention suspended plasterboard ceilings. Today we will fix it and give you detailed instructions with video and step-by-step photos of our work.

Why are plasterboard ceilings better than ordinary plaster?

• The ability to level any unevenness with the least effort. If you do this with the help, the maximum allowable layer will be 5 cm (if we talk about Rotband). A thicker layer will need to be applied in two passes.
• Any communications, pipes, wires can be hidden in the frame.
• You can embed almost any directional lighting in the ceiling. Well-chosen light will significantly transform the final look of the renovation.
• Finishing plasterboard ceilings allows you to create single and multi-level structures with different designs and shapes of bends, as well.
• In addition, you can additionally build in isolation from extraneous sounds, insulate the room.
• Plasterboard is installed on the ceiling using a dry method, so there is no need to wait for the solution to dry. After all, you don't have to be a professional plasterer to get a perfectly flat surface.

However, plasterboard ceiling filing has its drawbacks:

• Reducing the height of the room by at least 5 cm due to the high profile height.
• A difficult installation process for a novice master. It is imperative to have a hammer drill and a screwdriver. It is desirable to have a laser level.
• In the future, cracks may appear at the joints of the sheets.
• It's hard to cope alone. At least during the plating, the help of a partner is required.

Of course, for beginners it is even more difficult than drywall. Evaluate all the pros and cons yourself and make a choice - what you like best.

Here we will look at how to assemble a plasterboard suspended ceiling of the simplest single-level structure.

Required tools

Before making a plasterboard ceiling, purchase the missing tools and materials.


List of tools and accessories:

1. guide profiles 28 * 27 mm (PN);
2. ceiling profiles 60 * 27 mm (PP);
3. direct suspensions;
4. single-level profile connectors - crabs;
5. scissors for metal;
6. self-adhesive sealing tape;
7. wedge anchor;
8. dowel-nails;
9. painting thread (cord breaker);
10. laser level or hydro level;
11. bubble level 2 m;
12. rule 2.5 m;
13. drywall sheets;
14. putty for seams;
15. serpyanka - reinforcing tape for seams;
16. perforator with a drill;
17. screwdriver;
18. hardened self-tapping screws for metal with a frequent pitch of 25-35 mm;
19. self-tapping screws with a press washer;
20. acrylic primer;
21. if necessary, sound and heat insulation;
22. extension cords for profiles, if required;
23. wide, narrow and angled spatula;
24. standard tools: tape measure, hammer, knife.

Here is such a long list, but you probably already have half of it.

Important nuances - what beginners need to know

To calculate the required number of profiles, fasteners and drywall, you should first familiarize yourself with the installation technology. Next, the calculation will be shown using an example of a specific room and the consumption of materials will be shown.

If you do not know which drywall is better for the ceiling, or profiles for the frame, then buy products from well-known manufacturers, for example, the leader of them is Knauf. By purchasing cheap low-quality profiles, you run the risk of getting a sagging ceiling over your head.

• • As for the hydro level, it is needed in order to mark a perfectly horizontal line on the walls, regardless of the curvature of the room. It is built on the physical law of communicating vessels, therefore, to work, you will need to fill it with water. Two water level vessels on opposite walls will show the same level. You will make the marks and then connect them with the painter's thread. In general, you cannot do without a hydro level if you do not have a laser level, because with the usual bubble level you are tortured to draw a line around the perimeter of the room, in the end it will still turn out to be uneven.
  • The production of plasterboard ceilings can be either from ordinary sheets or from moisture resistant ones. If you are making repairs in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen or loggia, use a moisture-resistant one: hydrophobic additives are added to its composition. These two types differ in the color of the cardboard: moisture resistant green, and the usual one - gray.

• • Plasterboard ceiling cladding usually occurs in sheets with a thickness of 8 to 9.5 mm. Recall that heavier sheets are usually used for walls - 12.5 mm thick.
  • The sealing tape is a porous material with a self-adhesive base, 30 mm wide. It is used to fasten the structure so that the plasterboard ceiling frame fits snugly against the concrete and transmits sounds less.

Ceiling markings and rail fasteners

• • First you need to find the lowest corner in the room. To do this, measure each corner with a tape measure, and preferably the center of the room. In the lowest corner, you need to make a mark at a distance of 5 cm from the ceiling if you do not plan to build in fixtures, or 8 cm if there will be fixtures.
  • Now use the water level to make marks at the same level as the first point at each corner.

• • Now you need to make a skip to connect all the points evenly with a horizontal line. Pull the paint cord between the marks and release it sharply to hit the wall - the paint will leave an even print on the cord. Draw lines around the entire perimeter of the room.

Before hemming the ceiling with plasterboard, we recommend making notes on the position of the profiles and on the walls. This will make it easier to look for them when attaching the sheets to the frame.

• • Now fix the guide profiles to the walls. To do this, attach one guide to the line (the lower edge of the profile - along the line) and make marks on the wall through the ready-made holes on the profile. There should also be holes along the edges of the profile, so if they are not there, step back 10 cm and do it yourself. Drill holes according to the marks.

• Then you need to glue the sealing tape to the profile and fix it with dowels to the wall. We attach at least 3 dowels.
• Next, make a markup for the main ceiling profiles. Since the width of the drywall sheet is 120 cm, the profiles are usually placed at a distance of 40 cm from each other in order to secure the sheet at the edges and in the middle. So, draw lines on the ceiling in 40 cm increments.
• With such a small pitch of the ceiling profiles, jumpers between them are needed only at the transverse joints of the sheets, that is, every 2.5 m (standard length of drywall sheets). This means that the step of suspensions for ceiling profiles should be an integer number of times less, for us 50 cm will be optimal.It should be noted that the first row of suspensions will be two times closer from the wall, therefore 50: 2 = 25 cm. The second row will be 25 +50 = 75 cm and so on in 50 cm increments.
• For marking, attach the hanger at the desired points on the ceiling and make 2 marks for each under the anchors. There will be a lot of dust while drilling the holes, so be sure to wear goggles and a respirator.

Frame installation

• • We fasten the suspensions with anchors, they hold the suspended ceiling much better. The dowels can be pulled out by pulling slightly with pliers, so they are not suitable for the ceiling. Also remember to stick the sealing tape on the hangers. When you secure the suspension, bend its ends properly so that they bend as much as possible. During subsequent fastening, they should no longer bend, otherwise the profiles will be fixed unevenly.

• • Now you can start installing the ceiling profiles. They are 3m long, so if your room is smaller, cut them 1cm shorter than the room with metal scissors. If the room is longer, you will need special connecting hardware to increase the length of the profile.

Note! When extending a profile in length, the joints of adjacent profiles should not be on the same line. Also, there should be a suspension near the joints.

• • Fastening ceiling profiles to suspensions starts from the corners of the room. To secure them without sagging, your partner should take the rule and hold it with a wide grip (so it doesn't sag) to the two rails that form an angle (that is, the rule should be diagonally). This will keep your profile aligned with the guides. At this moment, you will screw the profile to the hangers for 4 self-tapping screws with a press washer. Also, do not forget to attach the profiles to the guides. So that they do not dangle, it is better to buy self-tapping screws without a drill.
  • The corners are ready, now we fix the center of the ceiling profiles to the suspensions. If the rule cannot be applied to the center in the same way, then apply it exactly from the starting profile. Be sure to check the flatness with a long level. After attaching the suspensions, bend the excess length of the ends up.

• • Attach the second profile in the same way, supporting the rule. Then go to the opposite wall and attach the next 2 ceiling profiles. Then go to the center and hang the remaining profiles, relying on the already installed ones.
  • Now you need to fix the jumpers where the drywall joints will be (every 2.5 m). They are attached using special single-level fasteners - crabs. Screw the crabs onto 4 self-tapping screws in the right places. If you step away from the main ceiling a small distance, then the crabs may not pass from above, so you will have to hang them in advance.

• Cut the jumpers from the ceiling profile and fasten to the crab with 4 self-tapping screws, bending the antennae. You do not need to attach the lintels to the profiles from the bottom; drywall will fix them.
• If necessary, mineral wool is usually used. It is cut into rectangles larger than the cells and fits inside the frame, additionally clinging to the suspensions. To enhance the effect, you can also fill the cavities of the profiles with it. Mineral wool absorbs sound very well, but when working with it, be sure to use a respirator and gloves.

If you want to watch the installation of a drywall ceiling in action, the video tutorial will help you learn some of the nuances of the work:

Fastening drywall to the frame

Note! Before fixing drywall, it must be in the room for at least a couple of days. Moreover, its storage is possible only in a horizontal position.

• Start attaching drywall to the ceiling by chamfering: you need to cut the edges with a knife at an angle so that then the putty will penetrate well into the gap. There is already a chamfer on the glued ends, so there is no need to remove it.
• Start fastening the sheet from a corner with a 20 cm pitch of self-tapping screws, retreat 10-15 mm from the edges. On adjacent sheets, screw in the screws at different levels, at a distance. Their caps should be recessed so that they do not bulge, check this by touch.
• Attach the sheets to each other apart, shifting at least one cell. They do not need to be joined together, there should be a 2 mm gap around the perimeter. The GK sheet should be fixed around the perimeter (including wall guides), and in the center.

Note! If you have outside corners in your room, avoid joining the sheet near the corner. If the joint is not made at least 10 cm from the corner, then a crack will soon appear.

Counting materials

Now that you know the structure of a plasterboard false ceiling, you can calculate the amount of materials needed and the cost of installing it. To do this, it is best to make a drawing of the room indicating all dimensions and place all fasteners and profiles on it.

For a room of 20.8 square meters, we needed:

• 99 suspensions;
• 8 sheets of drywall;
• 19 ceiling profiles;
• 8 guides;
• 24 crabs.

The approximate cost of installation work for hired workers is about 400 rubles per square meter. You can calculate the benefits if you do everything yourself - saving 8320 rubles. As you can see, there is a good profit, you can even recoup the purchase of tools.

Sealing of seams

Now let's talk about the last step - how to putty a plasterboard ceiling and seal the seams. First of all, treat the seams with a primer and wait until it dries. There is no need to peel the cardboard off the sheets. To seal the seams, you need to use especially strong putties, for example, Knauf Uniflott, the usual one will not work for this business.

• • Dilute the filler according to the instructions on the package. First, seal all the seams against the wall, then all the joints and caps of the screws. To seal factory seams, first fill it, and then level the indentation along the edges of the sheets with a wide trowel.

Note! Since 2013, Knauf has been producing gypsum plasterboard with a new edge (PLUK), which increases the strength of the putty at the joints and makes it possible not to use a reinforcing mesh on such an edge. Therefore, at the factory joints of the sheets, you can not use the mesh if you seal the seams with Knauf Uniflott putty.

• • When the putty is dry, glue self-adhesive tape (serpyanka) to the seams. At the intersection, glue it with an overlap. Dilute a little more putty and coat the serpentine and the remaining small irregularities. It is most convenient to putty the plasterboard ceiling in the corners with an angular spatula.
  • This will minimize the appearance of cracks at the joints as much as possible. To enhance the effect, you can. The surface is now ready for further spackling using the usual method. If you have small protrusions left after sealing the seams, then the finishing layer will hide everything.

In this article, we examined in detail how to sheathe the ceiling with plasterboard, and now you can make it at home with your own hands. We described the process of creating a single-level structure, but if you decide, the order of work will change slightly.