Homemade tools for sharpening drills with your own hands. How to sharpen a drill for metal? Sharpening device. Drill sharpening angle - expert advice. Using an electric drill

How to sharpen drills with the correct sharpening angle without much effort and skill? Unfortunately, many of us do not succeed the first time. This device is very simple in design. Therefore, each of you will be able to repeat it. Many people know that the edges of bolts and nuts have the same angle as a standard drill sharpening. We will use this. We will not weld two nuts together to get the correct pattern. The design is a little different.

To start, you need any nut. The larger the diameter, the larger diameter Drills can be sharpened in it.

The nut has 6 faces, 2 of which we need. Take a caliper and mark 4 mm from the edge of the nut. We turn the nut the other way around and make a mark on the edge that is one and a half mm larger than the first one. We make a triangle on 2 sides. Cut with a hacksaw or grinder. The result was a nut with cuts.

We weld another one. The device is almost ready. He misses the puck, which we throw into the middle. You will also need a bolt; it screws into a small nut.

The cuts in the nut have different depths, which differ by 1.5 mm. This difference is hardly noticeable to the eye. We insert the rod, fix it, and apply a ruler. The gap between the ruler and the round timber is smaller on the left than on the right. That is, the device has a certain angle. Where the gap is smaller, the master made a mark.

Operation of the device mechanism

We take a straight, unsharpened drill and place it in the device. Where the mark is, the drill must be placed, as shown in the photo and video. We fix the drill so that it protrudes slightly from the edges. The drill will be sharpened on the working side. In the example shown, it is possible to clamp with a diameter of up to 8 mm.

When we start grinding down the edge of the drill using sandpaper, there is a guide in the form of a plane of the edge of the nut, which sets correct angle sharpening.

This is a great device for those who cannot find the right angle by eye.

The video shows how to position the tool relative to the sanding wheel. From the 6th minute you can see how the drill is processed.

Alexander Polulyakh.

In addition to this video tutorial, another DIY device using bolts and nuts.

Drawing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8iB5ht2WrqOMEJiZlRtZ2VWdVE/view

To improve the quality of their work, craftsmen often make a machine for drill sharpening with your own hands. When using drills, you need to pay attention to their sharpness and absence of damage - the quality of drilling depends on this. Previously, sharpening was done by hand, but today you can buy a special machine or make it yourself according to individual parameters.

Features of the drilling process that affect the sharpness of drills

Drilling is ubiquitous in home and industrial settings. In this process, the cutting edges create indentations in the surface as they rotate. Their power is enough to affect most materials, and even metal. The presence of a spiral channel removes work waste and dust, so you can drill without stopping. But these particles wear out the drill device, causing it to wear out. Periodic sharpening can prevent this.

The wear of the drill directly depends on the duration of its use.

Damage occurs most quickly when working with metal and wood. The problem can be noticed when a specific squeaking sound is detected. As a result, not only the quality of drilling deteriorates, but also the heating of the tool increases, which can damage it. If the drill is heavily worn, the deterioration in sharpness can be felt even by touching it.

Types of sharpening:

• Single-plane – used for large drills. This is a strong sharpening that can crush material, so you need to be careful. The part must be moved on a circular surface without shifting its position so as not to damage the surface.
• Conical - used for large drills. They need to be held with both hands, since if you press on the part, it may slip off.
• Finishing is the final stage, which smoothes out isolated irregularities and polishes the surface.

Most often, spiral alloy drills with reinforcing tips are used. There are also flat models, for large holes. Regardless of the parameters and diameter, they require sharpening to prevent wear.

What will you need to assemble a drill sharpening machine?

Not only the grinding is responsible for the cutting ability of the drill, but also the angle of the blades - the smaller it is, the better the drilling. Optimal angle 90° is considered, 100° is required for wood, and 30° is suitable for plastic. Sharpening improves the angle of the cutting edge and centers it. This is done with sanding, which is also used in specialized equipment or when manual sharpening. Machines can be industrial or household, which determines their dimensions and power. Many craftsmen create their own sharpening equipment - this is a cheap solution, often as good as a production model.

It is best performed on special machines. Modern market offers big choice such devices, but their parameters do not always meet expectations or the cost is too high. In this case, you can make the machine yourself; this requires only basic technical skills. Despite the lower power home machine, it has a number of advantages compared to industrial devices:

• use of single-phase electricity flow at 220V;
• individual performance tuning;
• mobility of equipment when installing limited functionality;
• high performance for the required type of drills;
• ease of repair and low costs assemblies.

The right approach to creating a machine will allow you to obtain an effective sharpening apparatus. To assemble it you need a toggle switch, a plug, grinding wheel, a fairly strong motor, a set of wires, a stand and an axle. It is important to observe safety precautions, so it is better to cover the machine in a protective case, leaving only the turning circle and the axis visible. To operate the device, they use both a constant power supply and a battery for greater mobility.

Assembling parts into a single device and installing safety elements

It is necessary to provide a surface for mounting the machine. A metal table is suitable for this, on which marks are made for the bolts. Next you need to take a granular disk, which is attached to the electric motor of the future machine. If the diameters of the shaft and disk do not match, they must be aligned using available tools. If there is a match, the washer is placed on the shaft, after which the disk and, again, the washer. The shaft must first be threaded. Next, install the fastening nut, and put the anti-sway attachment on the circle.

You can add a bushing if the shaft has a smaller diameter for the stone. A hole is made in it, with which it is attached to the shaft, since the bushing will improve fixation and will rotate together with the disk. If you cannot choose the right electric motor, you can use a motor with washing machine. Wires can also be installed from it if they have three contacts in suitable condition. Next, the winding is connected to the phase line of two buttons responsible for turning the machine on and off. Thus, the device will be triggered by simple button commands.

The electric motor does not pose any danger open form, but he should provide protection. The motor can be hidden in a metal casing so that dust does not accumulate and moisture does not penetrate. Since a lot of chips are released when sharpening drills, this creates a danger. Need to build protective screen made of glass that will protect your eyes. Of course, you can use glasses, but metal particles may fly into your face. It is also advisable to make a protective casing. A tire is suitable for this, part of which will cover one third of the sharpening disc.

Sharpening parts on a homemade machine

If you can’t get an electric motor, you can get by with a simple drill. It is not necessary to buy a new device; an old device in which the engine operates will also work. To create a machine, you need to fix it on the surface, and install a universal disk (can be replaced with a grinding wheel) or bushing in the chuck. When you turn on the drill, it will be suitable for working on drill bits. To achieve the best performance, you need to approach the sharpening process correctly. Since drills have two threads, it is important to maintain the same dimensions when machining them so that the axis of rotation corresponds to the center of the drill.

Before you start sharpening, you need to check that the disc is securely fastened and protective elements. It will take half an hour for a high-quality result. Each drill material has its own sharpening characteristics and rotation direction, which must be studied before work. IN table machine a sharpener (abrasive disc or emery) of the coarsest format is installed. This will correct the main damage. After this, you need to switch to a fine abrasive that will grind the surface. It is important to maintain one sharpening angle, although the drill moves out in the process. If this is missed, there is a risk of dismounting and injury.

It is important to avoid overheating of drills. This destroys their plates, so you need to periodically immerse them in water (this cannot be done if the drill is already hot). Otherwise, simple skill is enough to sharpen drills. Following the procedure and safety rules will allow you to quickly sharpen drills on a homemade machine and do without expensive equipment.

A device for sharpening drills is useful in any household. After all, working with a dull drill is a pain. You can make the mechanism yourself using unnecessary and outdated parts.

Rules for sharpening drills

Drills can be sharpened on special sharpening discs, manually or on machines. Before starting work, carefully examine the drills: if there are serious defects on the surface, you need to start sharpening with a coarser abrasive. If the tool is a little dull, use a finishing disc.

When sharpening manually with your own hands, you need to follow the rules:

• hold the shank with one hand and adjust the working end with the other;
• process the cutting edge with the side of the sharpening disc;
• First, one side is sharpened, after which the drill is carefully turned over and the second is processed.

During processing, it is important to maintain the original shape of the drill and the direction of the cutting edges. It is necessary to ensure that the point of the tip does not move from the center, otherwise the tool will deviate to the side during operation. If after sharpening the angle of the cutting edges is not the same, the work of the drill will be poor. This is determined using a template made by yourself or by eye: the shape of the tip should be a cone. To avoid errors, it is better to edit on specialized devices.

Types of sharpening equipment

A homemade device is designed for sharpening drills made of various metals, cutters, taps, milling cutters, countersinks, cutters.

Equipment can be:

• specialized - processes a single type of tool;
• universal - used for all types of cutters and drills.

Homemade mechanisms often belong to the universal household type. Industrial machines are powerful and work with large tools. There is no need for such at home; they are noisy, take up a lot of space and are energy-consuming.

Household ones are suitable for sharpening drills of small and medium diameter; they are compact and economical.

Making a sharpening machine

To assemble the machine with your own hands, you need to prepare:

• electric motor;
• grinding disc;
• toggle switch;
• stand;
• electrical cable;
• stub.

All components of the machine are placed inside the body with your own hands. This will make work safe and convenient. Only the motor pulley on which the grinding disc is mounted should be accessible. The machine is permanently attached to the workbench, so the location must be selected in advance.

• place the electric motor in the right place, mark the mounting points on the table;
• drill holes for the mounting bolts;
• return the electric motor to its place and screw it to the workbench; clamps made of thin metal strips are suitable for fastening;
• install the protective housing;
• Place a grinding wheel on the engine pulley.

It is advisable to select an engine with an extended pulley, otherwise it will have to be delivered. First, put on the washer, then the circle. If the diameters of the pulley and disk do not match, an adapter sleeve is used. A threaded hole is made on the side of the bushing, and an additional fastening bolt is screwed into it.

In terms of power, the engine from a washing machine is suitable for a homemade machine. Do not select a high-speed engine, as sharpening of drills occurs at low speed.

Now you can connect the electrical component: toggle switch, motor and connect them to the outlet.

Additional devices

Handmade additional accessories will make the work of sharpening drills more convenient and accurate.

Template for verification. The template is cut out of a sheet of thin (1 mm) soft metal (aluminum, copper). The template reveals the angles at the tip, the length of the working edges, the angle between the working edge and the bridge. Since it is almost impossible to check the rear sharpening angle of a drill using a template, the sharpening angle is checked. The template is cut out before using the drill for the first time.

Guide. This is a small attachment that is made of a metal strip and is fixed to the body with a bolt. During operation, the drill is placed on a guide and brought to the grindstone.

Goniometer. On the stand, which is described above, divisions of sharpening angles are applied. You can cut off a piece of metal protractor with corner marks and attach it to a stand. You need to cut off a part with angles of more than 30 degrees, since smaller ones are not used when sharpening.

A device that makes drill sharpening easier. It consists of a fixed frame and holder, in which holes are provided for inserting cutters different sizes. The holder can be removed. The bed is made of a 50 mm board, a rail is attached to it at an angle of 32 degrees. The rack positions the holder with the tool at the required angle. The holder is cut out with your own hands from a block, the surface of which is removed at an angle of 65 degrees. The beveled part is laid against the rail. The bevel angles of the holder and the rack depend on the type of sharpening.

Multifunctional mechanism

Sharpening drills will become easier when using this mechanism. The device consists of:

• roller slides;
• guide;
• shaft;
• protractor;
• drill chuck.

The guide should be made wide enough, and a protractor is attached to it. The rotation axis is a bolt inserted into the provided hole. Guides and a movable plate are placed on the rotating part. An axis and tube are fixed on its surface; on one side the axis ends with a drill chuck, on the other - with a handle. The movement of the thrust plate is ensured by a threaded axis.

At the bottom of the thrust plate there is a limiter (also known as a pointer), which simultaneously indicates the required displacement angle and fixes it in the desired position.

The mechanism works as follows:

• the drill is fixed in the chuck;
• the thrust plate is locked at the required angle;
• the tool is rotated along the longitudinal axis using a handle;
• mark the angle;
• turn the cutter 90 degrees and process the second half, reaching the marked angle.

Rules for sharpening on a homemade machine

• When machining drills, both hangers must be identical. This means that the drill will fit smoothly into the hole and perform drilling efficiently.
• Before starting the machine with your own hands, securely attach the grinding wheel to the pulley.
• Carry out initial processing with a disc with a coarse abrasive. When you notice a burr on the drill, the disc should be replaced with a thinner one.
• While sharpening, maintain the required angle at all times.
• The circle should only rotate in one direction, along the blade.
• Do not allow the cutter to overheat; it should be cooled periodically during processing. Do not immerse overheated tools in cold water, this promotes cracking of the metal.

Several options for sharpening drills in the videos.

Drill sharpening can be done manually, on machines or with special abrasive discs.

If you sharpen the drill by hand, then you need to:

• hold the shank firmly and guide its spiral part with the other hand;
• press the cutting edge of the drill against the side surface of the abrasive wheel;
• after sharpening one side, it is necessary to smoothly rotate the drill, while the cutting edges must have the correct inclination to the axis and take the desired configuration.

The drill is sharpened on both sides alternately. At the same time, be sure to control the cutting edges.

Remember! The tip of the drill should be exactly in the center.

Otherwise, it will deviate during operation. It is worth noting that under no circumstances should you put too much pressure on the drill, otherwise it may get defects (bending).

For example, if after sharpening you notice that the cutting edges are not the same and are inclined at different angles to the axis, then this means that the middle of the transverse edge is not in the center of the drill, and it will not work correctly.

When sharpening, be sure to pay attention to the initial angle of the tool. It is he who will become your guide in the future. Then inspect the gimlet for damage:

• if you find serious defects, you can use coarse sandpaper;
• if the defects are small and the drill is only slightly dull, use a finishing wheel. This operation is necessary for thin drills;
• if the concrete drill has defects in the shank taper, treat top part tool, gently pressing it against the grinding wheel;
• After processing, carefully inspect the back surface of the drill again;
• If you notice, or determine with a template, that you have a perfect cone, you have sharpened the tool correctly.

After this, process the cutting edge of the drill. The size of the jumper for rational turning of the tool should be 1-1.7 mm.

What are the features of sharpening machines?

A homemade device for sharpening drills is designed for through and blind drills made of steel, cast iron and various hard alloys. Depending on the type, machines can be equipped with different functions. On some of them, you can vary the angle during operation.

There are sharpening machines:

• universal – used for various cutting tools;
• specialized - for one type.

Devices for sharpening drills are classified as universal machines, because they can be used to process:

• taps;
• cutters;
• dugouts;
• countersinks.

Machines are divided into two categories:

1. Industrial - have high power and are designed for sharpening tools large diameter. Power depends directly on the engine.
2. Domestic grinder for drills - quite compact and often used for home use. It can be used to process even small-diameter drills.

There are seven sharpening methods:

1. Single-plane.
2. Complex screw.
3. Shaped.
4. Elliptical.
5. Conical.
6. Two-plane.
7. Screw.

How to make a device for sharpening drills

To make a homemade machine you will need:

• toggle switch;
• abrasive wheel;
• stub;
• engine;
• stand;
• wires.

Follow our tips:

1. For safety reasons, place homemade machine into the body, leaving only the axle and abrasive wheel outside. Remember, the device will work from the network.
2. Select in advance the location where your drill sharpening device will be placed. It is advisable that it be on a metal table.
3. Next, place the electric motor on the tabletop using fasteners (clamps) and mark the locations of the holes for the bolts, if it has legs.
4. After this, remove the electric motor and make 4 holes.
5. Later, reinstall the engine and secure it carefully with the bolts.

Advice: If the engine does not have legs, you can strengthen it with metal strips (clamps).

The electric motor for our future machine must be equipped with a special elongated shaft, onto which a granular disk should be placed. For this:

1. Install the fastening nut by first cutting a right-hand thread at the end of the shaft.
2. Secure the disc with a washer and nuts.

If the diameter of the shaft and the disc holes match, then install a washer on the shaft, and then an abrasive disc. If the diameter of the shaft and the hole do not match, then you will need to add a bushing.

First make a special side hole in it with a thread for a bolt in order to be able to secure it tightly to the shaft. After this you can put the sleeve on.

If you can’t decide on an electric motor, then just take the motor of an old washing machine. It is ideal for homemade device sharpening.

It is worth noting that you must prepare in advance the starter and wires that will subsequently need to be connected. It is very important that the starter has at least three to four open contacts. Its winding must be connected using two buttons to the phase line.

Attention! The electric motor will be unsafe, regardless of the type - during operation, the rotating shaft can accidentally wind up a cord, wire, or hair.

Advice: Make a metal box to protect the machine from dust, abrasive particles, and you from accidental injuries.

How to properly sharpen a drill on a machine

1. When sharpening, you must ensure that the two shoulders of the drill are identical. If you achieve such a correspondence, then the axis of rotation of the drill will completely coincide with the center of the hole.
2. Before you start sharpening, be sure to ensure that the abrasive disc is tightly secured.
3. Always start the process with a coarser abrasive. Once a burr appears on your drill, you can change the abrasive to a finer one.
4. Watch the sharpening angle.
5. Do not allow the windings to switch so that the abrasive disc rotates in reverse. It should always move only in the direction of the blade.

Please note that drills cannot tolerate excessive overheating. Cool the gimlet regularly while sharpening. But under no circumstances put a red-hot drill into water, as cavities may appear in it.

Additional accessories

1. Guide

To avoid holding the drill suspended during sharpening (this can lead to injury), provide a support or guide in the form of a small attachment. It is made from a strip of metal, bent as shown in the figure and screwed to the frame (base). The drill is rested on it and brought to the circle at the desired angle.

1. Goniometer

On the guide described above, make marks (marks) under required angles sharpening. It will become much more convenient to use.

If this is difficult for you, cut off the top part of a regular protractor and glue it to the guide.

Angles less than 30 0 are not used for sharpening, so we sacrifice them.

1. Universal device

To facilitate sharpening of tools, in particular drills, a mechanism has been developed consisting of a drill chuck, a shaft, roller guides (sled) and a protractor.

The main substrate described above is made wide. A protractor is glued onto it. A hole is drilled into which a bolt is inserted, which serves as an axis for the rotating surface.

A plate is installed on it on a roller slide, on which a pipe with a cartridge on the axis is fixed. The plate itself moves forward/backward using a conventional feed mechanism (threaded axis).

At the bottom of the rotating plate there is a displacement limiter indicator. It serves to rotate the device to the desired angle and to lock it.

Working with the device

One of the main parameters of a twist drill is the apex angle, which for durable metals(steel, cast iron, hard bronze, titanium, etc.) is approximately 120 degrees.
Deviation of this angle more or less from the nominal value makes it difficult effective work drill. In the first case, productivity drops and the tool overheats; in the second, the drill may simply break, unable to withstand the excessive load.
In order to comply with the sharpening parameters without special devices, you must have high qualifications and experience as a tool sharpener. Well, it will be almost impossible for a non-specialist, especially in domestic conditions, to do this.
But, having some tools and simple materials, you can make a not very complicated, but reliable device for sharpening the corner at the tip of a twist drill for hard metal.

What you might need to work on the device

• calipers;
• marker;
• metal vice;
• Bulgarian;
• pliers;
• welding machine;
• sharpening machine with an emery wheel.

• regular hex nut;
• castle nut;
• bolt of the same size and thread as the nuts;
• twist drill that requires sharpening.

Manufacturing process

Additions and improvements