Feeding clematis. Fertilizers for clematis. How to feed clematis in spring for abundant flowering Last feeding of clematis

Clematis is one of the most noble and beautiful perennial vines. She is able to cover the entire area with her chic flowering vines, changing it beyond recognition. Clematis is good for decorating gazebos, arches, house walls, and fences. Clematis is also called: "vineyard", "warthog", "grandfather curls" and "clematis". There are about 300 species of clematis in nature. Clematis are easy to care for and respond very gratefully to good care after them. Subject to proper agricultural technology They are distinguished by colorful and long-lasting flowering, and great resistance to disease. Today we will tell you how to feed clematis in the summer.

When to start fertilizing clematis

If the land was well fertilized before planting, then additional feeding begins only after two or even three years. But when the soil is poor, it is necessary to add manure humus or well-rotted compost mixed with wood ash to the base of the bushes in the first spring or autumn - 1-2 handfuls per bucket. This is especially true for young specimens, whose root system is not yet sufficiently developed. Over the summer, clematis grow a huge mass of shoots, leaves, and then flowers, so nutrition comes first for them. These vines need to be fed twice a month, in small portions. And the fertilizer must be in liquid form!

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How to determine if clematis lacks fertilizer

If you look closely at the flower, it is easy to independently identify the type of fertilizer that is necessary for the flower:

Clematis' young shoots have decreased, the leaves have become yellowish in color, and the flowers have become much smaller - it requires fertilizing, which is based on nitrogen. To do this, you can use rotted poultry droppings diluted with water or cow manure;
The plant has a peduncle that has become dark, and the color of the flowers has become much lighter - the plantings need potassium fertilizers. With the onset of spring, such feeding may consist of potassium nitrate, and at the end of summer it is recommended to feed clematis with potassium sulfate. To obtain the nutritional composition, you need to use 10-12 liters of settled water and 25-30 grams of fertilizer;
With the onset of autumn, experts recommend introducing fertilizer based on bone meal into the top layer of soil under each clematis bush. One square meter will require 200-250 grams of flour. This fertilizer will provide the plants with phosphorus, the lack of which leads to poor growth young shoots and changing foliage color.

Types of summer fertilizers for clematis

Abundant and prolonged flowering of clematis leads to active absorption of nutrients from the soil. The plant needs minerals and organic fertilizers, which alternate.

If the soil was well fertilized when planting a young vine, this year it is better not to overload the bush with additional fertilizing. To ensure uniform consumption of nutrients, the plant is fed up to 4 times per season. Necessary fertilizers for clematis:

Bone flour. The source of phosphorus is added at the beginning of autumn at the rate of 200 grams. per 1 sq. meter.
Humus. Used when planting a bush, 20-23 kg of humus per plant.
Nitrogen. Feeding the vine with nitrogen compounds is important for the uniform development of shoots and rich color of flowers. For 10 liters of water, 1 liter of slurry and 15 grams are used. nitroammophoska or ammonium nitrate.
Potash fertilizers. Apply at the beginning of spring (potassium nitrate) and at the end of summer (potassium sulfate) 25 g. fertilizers per 10 liters of water.

Pest Control Articles

To protect clematis from pests and fungal diseases, especially during the period of active shoot development, the soil is treated with fungicidal agents. You can feed the plant through the leaves with “Floral Solution” or “Aquarin”. In summer, at the end of August, clematis needs potassium and phosphorus. It is best to use potassium sulfate, which is diluted in water and fed to the vine. Ten liters of water require thirty grams of the substance. In the warm season, clematis love to be sprayed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and boric acid. The liana is sprayed once a month in the evening.

Fertilizing clematis in summer for lush flowering

Clematis are quite unpretentious. They adapt to different climatic conditions, can tolerate severe frosts and heat. But the root system of clematis does not like high humidity and overheating, so the soil around the roots needs to be mulched. For spectacular flowering, clematis needs regular feeding. When the first buds begin to form, the vine simply needs additional nutrients. During this period, the plant simply needs phosphorus and potassium. It is best to use complex mineral fertilizers that do not contain chlorine. Also, during the budding period, the soil is additionally nourished with a tincture of cow dung. Lush development of clematis can be achieved by increasing the power of the root system: in a 2-3-year-old bush that has been dug up and washed from the ground, all the white tips of the roots are pinched off by 0.5 cm. Thanks to this operation, the volume of the root system more than doubles. The next year the plant blooms two weeks earlier and has larger flowers.

What other care does clematis need in the summer?

Clematis do not tolerate overheating and drying out of the soil. It should always be slightly damp and loose. Therefore, after each watering and rain, the soil around the plants is loosened. Near new plantings - shallow (2-5 cm) to destroy the soil crust and the first weeds.

Good results are obtained by mulching the soil, which partially replaces watering and loosening. For clematis, it is best to use semi-rotted manure as mulch, sprinkled with peat. When watering or raining, such mulch retains moisture longer and provides the plant with additional nutrition. In winter, it protects the root system from freezing, especially during icy conditions. Thanks to mulch, many worms appear, which, by making passages in the soil, help improve its structure.

After flowering ends, at the end of August - September, it is useful to fertilize with monopotassium phosphate, complex autumn fertilizer or wood ash. On well-aerated cultivated lands, the root system of clematis extends up to 1 m wide from the base of the bush and up to 80 cm deep, which allows the plant to select from the soil the minerals and trace elements that are missing for life. Properly planted clematis, which is fertilized correctly and in full, always blooms profusely and tolerates winter well.

AND proper feeding clematis - three components of success in growing these plants. Each of them is very important in itself, but feeding should be discussed separately.

When to start fertilizing?

What and how to feed?

To feed clematis, experts recommend alternating mineral fertilizers with organic matter diluted to liquid state. The only thing you need to remember is timely and sufficient watering. Clematis love water very much and do not tolerate high concentrations of nutrients in the soil. Therefore, fertilizers are used in small portions, and the plants should be watered abundantly before applying them.

All fertilizing must be coordinated with the periods of clematis development. In the spring, at the end of May, when young shoots are intensively growing and developing, they need to be given more nitrogen. Diluted mullein or bird droppings are suitable in concentrations of 1:10 or 1:15, respectively. In the absence of organic matter, you can use urea - about 20 grams per square meter planting areas. Fertilizers must first be dissolved in water.

After the shoots grow, clematis should also be given foliar nutrition - spraying with a weak solution of urea in a concentration of no more than 3 grams per liter of water.

During budding, nitrogen is also required by clematis, but phosphorus and potassium come to the fore. A complex mineral fertilizer such as “Kemira Lux”, “Riga mixture” or “Nitroammofoska” is suitable here, which should be supplemented with a solution of fermented mullein or an infusion of weeded weeds. It is possible to use traditional flower mixtures. But when choosing them, you need to pay attention to the fact that there are no components containing chlorine, which is completely contraindicated for clematis.

The next stage of feeding occurs when the plants have already faded. Unless, of course, for some reason it is necessary to shorten the flowering period. In August, phosphorus-potassium mixtures are used, for example “Kemira autumn”. The supply of nitrogen to the roots of clematis at this time should already be limited so as not to cause excessive growth of green mass, which is undesirable on the threshold of autumn.

In addition, it is very useful to spray all types of clematis with weak solutions of potassium permanganate and boric acid - 2 grams per bucket. This should be done throughout the summer, once a month.

By September, feeding stops completely. All that remains is to fill the soil with wood ash, which is planted under the bushes in the middle of the month. For each plant, use about 2 glasses of well-sifted.

In total, at least 4 feedings must be done during the season, not counting intermediate sprayings. And clematis will delight you with lush flowering, healthy appearance and good growth.

Spring is the time of nature's awakening from winter hibernation. After the snow melts, caring for perennial flowering plants in the garden begins. Experienced clematis breeders know that it is important to know not only how to care for clematis in the spring in the country, but also when exactly to start doing it.

Spring problems of the buttercup family

All agricultural technology, including stages of how to care for clematis after winter, consists of the usual procedures: treatment, fertilization, loosening.

After freeing the plant from the covering layer, all visible parts of it should be carefully inspected for infection. Liana-like perennials are susceptible to viral and bacterial infections, each of which has its own symptoms and treatment.

Rust infection manifests itself in the form of flaky yellow-brown spots on the ground parts and growths on the roots. Treatment and prevention of rust - watering and spraying with copper-containing solutions, for example, Bordeaux mixture.
Infestation by microscopic fungi, or wilt, can “dry out” all young perennials. To prevent it, in the spring the plant is treated with a solution of foundationazole (2%). If it was not possible to get rid of this scourge in time, the damaged plants are disposed of so as not to infect the rest.

Gray rot and powdery mildew can manifest themselves in summer time. If they are detected, the infected parts of the plants are destroyed, and the remaining ones are treated with foundationazole and Topaz or Skor preparations.

Formation of young clematis - growth features

It is more rational to start breeding clematis early autumn time, giving the seedling the opportunity to acclimatize before hibernation.

During the first two years, the plant must be allowed to develop a strong root system. To do this, the young bush is not allowed to grow too much, periodically pruning new shoots. All formed buds are also removed. At the end of the root development period, the bush will delight you not only with numerous shoots, but also with abundant lush flowering. At one place climbing perennials can live more than 10 years; how to care for perennial clematis - later in the article.

For novice breeders of perennial vines, it will be useful to know how to care for an indoor clematis flower in the first years of its existence in a pot.
First you need to choose the right seedling. During visual inspection you should pay attention to:

on the root system (should be free of damage and growths that indicate a painful state of the plant);
for the presence of three obligatory shoots on which the buds are clearly visible.

Seedlings aged two or three years – best option for the first experience of communicating with perennial vines. The most problem-free varieties in agricultural technology are purple in shade, the most demanding to care for are snow-white. Pink-red representatives act as the golden mean.

How to feed clematis in spring and summer

Spring stagnation of water is a considerable danger to the roots of perennials. The areas closest to the plants should be drained as soon as possible. The fluffing around the bushes should be done no closer than half a meter. Clematis are undemanding to soil composition. They prefer loose, slightly acidic soil. But still, how to care for clematis with regular feeding?

It is carried out in several stages:

in the spring, add a solution of slaked lime to the soil at the rate of 1 cup per bucket per square meter of planting;
during the summer active growth fed with various mineral fertilizers, mullein – 1 time in 10 days;
The favorite remedy for all clematis is wood ash; each bush requires a glass of it (per bucket of water).

An obligatory part of how to properly care for clematis at home is mulching the area of soil near the perennials with peat, sawdust with sand and ash. This will not only protect the roots from overheating, but will also get rid of the invasion of slugs and snails. For the same purpose, you can plant marigolds and calendula near climbing plants. The ones they highlight essential oils will repel pests, and the dense greenery will provide the necessary coolness to the underground part of the vines.

How to distinguish clematis for an amateur gardener

Many would like to have this luxurious exotic miracle in their yard, but not everyone dares. Clematis have a reputation for being finicky and capricious plants. In fact, any interested person can learn how to plant clematis and care for it. Agricultural technology requires certain skills, but first of all you should decide on the variety. There are about three hundred varieties of plants in the ranunculaceae family. Botanists classify species according to their scientific criteria. It is more convenient for gardeners to distinguish varietal varieties by the method of annual formation of the bush, and these are 3 groups of pruning: weak, medium and strong. Each category has prominent representatives

. You can find out how to grow clematis from seeds.

Perennial climbing plants that do not need pruning The first group of plants requires virtually no pruning. Flowering occurs on last year's shoots. From the root growth points is formed annually a certain amount of young branches, therefore, in order to avoid unnecessary density at the end of summer, underdeveloped ones that have not proven themselves with the best side

parts of the bush.

Clematis Albina Plena has been decorating itself with delicate double flowers since the end of April. Abundantly flowering vines grow well in any soil; they prefer semi-shaded places well protected from the wind. The height of an adult plant is up to 4 meters. The snow-white flowers are several layers of holly-leaved bells. They hang beautifully on purple legs, hiding the golden core from view. The originator of the variety is Sweden.

Formation of a bush according to the second type: representatives of the group Varieties that form inflorescences both on the branches of the previous season and on young shoots are formed depending on the age of the stems. This is the second trimming group. Last year's lignified ones are shortened by the second bud, green young ones - by a third of the length.

With the onset of warm days, early flowering will begin on overwintered vines in the spring; a second wave of buds will form on newly grown shoots in mid-summer. This cycle guarantees long-term flower abundance for 3-4 months.

Rose-red varieties of flowering vines Cherry-red clematis Westerplatte is a compact plant with branches up to 2 meters long. Suitable for decorating small. Simple single flowers reach a diameter of 16 cm. The velvety surface of the petals in the center is decorated with three shallow grooves. The core is light pink, with a rich red border. The leaves are light green, three-fingered. Flowering from July to September, on last season's shoots.

Large-flowered clematis Viva Polonia was bred in 2014. The name translates as “Glory to Poland”, in honor of the originator’s homeland. The charming red variety is a worthy representative of the clematis genus. Wide lanceolate sepals with wavy, slightly lowered edges are decorated with a longitudinal stripe of a light shade. The size of the flower in some cases exceeds 25 cm. The height of the vines is up to 3 meters. The flowering period lasts about 2 months in mid-summer.

Terry flowers of the clematis variety Vivian Pennel of the first wave have three shades at once: purple-red with outside sepals, violet-blue around the edge of the flower, lilac-blue in the middle. In summer, single flowers bloom on new branches. blue flowers with golden stamens. The length of the stems is up to 3 meters. Flowering is long-lasting, from May to August.

Zoned for most regions of Russia, clematis Ai nor is classified as an early variety. It was developed in the middle of the 20th century. Lush flowering vines can stretch to a length of about 3 meters over the summer. Large flowers are light pink, up to 15 cm in diameter, the base is bluish-violet. The anthers are dark yellow. The peculiarity of the variety is that the color changes from rich pink to almost white as it blooms.

Clematis the color of a summer night sky

The most advantageous position in which clematis Wildfire looks like a fantastic guest of tropical forests is the light background of brick or whitewashed walls. Early variety Wildfire is decorated with huge, up to 20 cm in diameter, blue-blue flowers purple. A wide longitudinal stripe of a purple hue runs from the edge of the petal to the center. A simple flower consists of 8-10 sepals, partially overlapping each other. Red-burgundy stamens on white stalks form a hairy core. The length of the lashes is average - from 2 to 3 meters, flowering is early - from May.

Compact clematis Teshio was bred by Japanese breeders and serves as an excellent decoration for terraces, balconies and loggias. Under open air lush garlands entwining small supports amaze the imagination with their unusual beauty. Strongly double blue-violet flowers 8-10 cm in diameter are collected from numerous narrow petals rolled into a tube. When opened, the inflorescence looks like a slightly compressed sphere.

Exotic whites are the most valuable varieties of clematis

White clematis Duchess of Edinburgh blooms in its first wave in May-June; during this period, double inflorescences with a pale green spot in the center are formed. The second wave of flowering occurs in July-August, when semi-double flowers bloom on young vines. The diameter of the flowering part is 13-15 cm. Stems 2-3 meters long feel great both in open ground, and in a bulk container in a spacious, bright room.

New Zealand clematis Snow Queen is a representative of the snow-white varieties. It blooms from May to October with large white flowers with a delicate lilac tint. The shape of the petals is oblong, with a sharp tip, 6-8 pieces each. The stamens are dark red. The length of the shoots is 2-3 meters. Looks amazing against a dark background, thanks to glowing flowers. Leaf color is dark green.

Polish clematis Jean Pavel 2 is distinguished by the reddish-purple color of its tender young shoots. An interesting feature of large white single flowers is the color of the longitudinal stroke in the center of each petal that changes throughout the season - from pale pink at the beginning of flowering to rich red at the end. The anthers on white stalks are of a contrasting dark red color, which gives the flower a special charm.

Third group of pruning - new shoots every year

The third group needs the strongest shortening of the stems, since flowers are formed only on young shoots of the current season. In autumn, all vines are cut almost to the ground, leaving the stems 25-35 cm long, or 2-3 nodes. Interesting feature this group - the shorter the vines are cut, the larger the flowers will be next year.

The combination of two shades on one flower is classic exotic

The two-color clematis Avangard is covered with medium-sized flowers (5-7 cm) from the end of June. They seem to be made up of flowering parts of two different plants. The bottom layer is rounded silky sepals of a blood-red color with wavy edges. The second part is a spherical pompom made of lanceolate pink petals. The pistils and stamens form a sunny yellow center. The length of the shoots by the end of summer is 2.5 meters. The leaves are green and small.

Compact clematis Stasik produces shoots 180-200 cm long. Large red (up to 10 cm) star-shaped flowers have a light stripe in the middle of the narrow sepal. Stamens are red on white stalks. Blooms from June to August.

Exotic clematis Tango is a vine-like plant 200-300 cm long, covered with small flowers from June to September. They are light pink underneath inner side from bright red edges smoothly transitions to white, with dark veins in the middle. In the center there is a brown pistil, surrounded by purple stamens. What makes the plant unusual is the shape of the flower - it consists of 4 sepals with a wavy edge.

Dark-flowered clematis - the most unpretentious to care for

The dark purple-violet or blue-violet flowers of Clematis Gypsy Queen are profusely covered from June to October. The shape is simple, of 6 ovoid, silky, monochromatic sepals, strongly open horizontally. Nestled on this velvety calyx is a delicate greenish-yellow hedgehog of anthers. The leaves are heart-shaped, light green in color. The length of the vines is 3-4 meters. The diameter of the flowers of the clematis variety Gypsy Queen is from 12 to 14 cm.

The long-known, purple, and therefore most unpretentious clematis Victoria is famous for its unpretentious character. Abundantly flowering vines will decorate any shape landscape design. Suitable for all types vertical gardening. It will look more charming against a light background than against a dark one, thanks to its rich hue from the southern night sky. The average size flowers are compensated by their abundance. The length of the stems is from 2 to 3.5 meters.

Late-blooming clematis Viola is an Estonian representative of the ranunculaceae family. The first buds bloom in June. Exotic large flowers – rich purple color, without shades. The core is a golden-yellow hedgehog of anthers. The sepals are wide, partially overlapping each other, 4-6 pieces each. The edges are slightly wavy. Feature of the variety - prefers shady place. In the light, the inflorescences lose their bright shade, which reduces their decorative qualities.

Clematis Star of India plants large flowers at a height of 1 meter from the soil surface, so the place where the variety is used is in high vertical forms. The variety has been known for a long time; reviews of clematis Star of India are replete with enthusiastic characteristics: frost-resistant, vigorously growing, unpretentious, charming. The longest shoots stretch to a length of more than 4 meters. They are strewn with bright purple-violet large flowers from June to September. The anthers are white-beige, contrasting with the color of the petals.

The first description of clematis Taiga appeared in 2016, when at the world exhibition this Japanese variety received public recognition as best new product. A spherical large double flower made up of purple-violet narrow petals with white-green tips. The height of the plant reaches 2.5 meters, in favorable conditions it blooms from June to September.

Clematis are plants that need care both in summer and winter. In order for the vine to bloom profusely, you should carefully consider this procedure. If the plant is properly prepared for frost, it will delight its owners with large and bright buds.

Preparing for winter

Caring for clematis before the onset of cold weather plays an important role in their further development. Despite the fact that the plant has sufficiently adapted to our area, its southern roots still make themselves felt. Gardeners who have been growing these unusually beautiful plants on their property for many years know that their flowering depends on proper pruning, watering and fertilizing.

If the vines alone have enough summer and spring fertilizing, then for clematis they are required even more late period of the year. It is especially necessary to fertilize if the flower grows on poor lands.

If clematis are not cut and wrapped for the winter, they may die completely or freeze out in places. Therefore, in order to avoid negative consequences, you should wrap the plant well before the onset of cold weather, and also remove unnecessary shoots. You will learn how to do this in the article.

Work completion time

In order for the vine to bloom profusely, its shoots must be trimmed throughout the year. There are several categories of this plant, the care for which is slightly different.

Main groups of clematis:

First group. These are wild varieties, Texas and Eastern vines. They need to remove dry and damaged branches after the leaves fall. The shoots on such bushes should be trimmed in the spring. If this is not done, the plant will lose its shape. Over time, such vines become bare, and buds appear only in the upper part.

Flowers of this group are pruned only in spring for the first two years. Then the procedure should be carried out in the summer.

Bushes that are two years old should remove all branches, leaving one bud at a time. This should be done from January to February.

Second group. These are vines that bloom twice a year: from May to June and from August to September. These flowers are pruned in the last month of autumn and summer. This is explained by the fact that the buds form on last year’s branches. The summer procedure should be carried out in June, when flowering ends.
Third group. These are the most popular species that can be found in any garden. These include hybrids and herbaceous varieties. You can observe their flowering in early July. Such vines are pruned only in autumn. It is better to do this in October or early November.

Important! Plants of the second group must be severely pruned once every 5 years. This is necessary so that the bush is lush and the flowers bloom at eye level.

Fertilizers and fertilizers

If the plant was well fertilized during planting, then the next procedure should be carried out in the third year of the vine’s life. But in cases where the soil is poor, it is recommended to apply fertilizers in the first autumn.

Before fertilizing, you should water the flower generously for several days before the procedure.

Advice! The plant does not tolerate an overabundance of drugs, so they should be applied in diluted form.

Humus, compost, and potassium-phosphorus fertilizers can be used as fertilizing. If humus is used for fertilizer, then its quantity per trunk circle should be 10 kg. It is not recommended to use preparations containing nitrogen. This component promotes the active growth of green mass, which clematis does not need at all in the fall.

Also, before covering, the base of the bush should be strewn with wood ash and compacted well. It should be well chopped. It is better to sift it before use. The optimal amount is 0.5 kg of substance per bush.

In addition to organic products, clematis can be fertilized with mineral preparations. They must be used extremely carefully. Such compositions should be applied according to the specified proportions on the packaging. If you follow it throughout the year correct amount fertilizing, then in the fall you don’t need to use them at all.

Advice! The last nutritional feeding should be carried out in September.

Caring for clematis in the fall also includes spraying the root part. This is done immediately after pruning the shoots.

For this you can use:

two percent iron sulfate;
one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture.

This procedure should be used for all types of vines. It is necessary to protect plants from the development of dangerous fungal diseases.

Pruning clematis

This is an important part of care that should be treated with special care. From correct pruning a lot depends. First of all, this is the full development of the root system.

Types of plant pruning:

sanitary (removal of dry shoots and leaves);
formative (necessary for better growth of the vine);
winter (protects the flower from freezing).

Clematis is one of the plants whose leaves do not fall off on their own in the fall. Therefore, in order for the flower to have an attractive appearance in the spring, you should remove the dry leaf plates yourself.

Advice! Damaged leaves must also be cut off from wintering branches.

The method of pruning depends on the type of plant and how old it is. Some species do not need this procedure at all. As for young flowers, they should be cut off completely, leaving no more than 30 centimeters of shoots above the ground.

The most effective is pruning in three tiers. It can be applied to different varieties plants. If you use this method, the plant will certainly delight you with its appearance in the spring.

First tier. No more than four shoots are pruned. Each of them is pruned at a height of one meter above the soil.

Second tier. Each of the four branches is trimmed 0.5 meters above the ground.

Third tier. On at this stage 4 shoots are also used. It is important to ensure that during the pruning process, two to three buds remain above the soil.

The remaining branches will need to be removed at the root, and those that are cut off will need to be carefully placed on the surface of the ground.

Shelter for the winter

This procedure should be carried out at the end of autumn. It is best to do this in the second half of October or early November. The liana tolerates light frosts quite easily, but it is not worth experimenting with. During winters with little snow, clematis shoots are quickly damaged, which will negatively affect its flowering.

The plant should be covered after the vine is pruned and processed. To carry out the procedure, you can use dry tree branches, weathered peat, wood shavings, dry leaves and other materials.

In order for the vine to feel good in cold weather, it is worth pouring a layer of dry soil on top of the material. It is also recommended to additionally protect with a thick layer of snow. Varieties that need insulation must be shortened to 150 centimeters.

The principle of the procedure depends on the variety and type of flowering:

Clematis, whose buds appear on last year's branches, are the most frost-resistant. These include large-petaled, alpine, spreading and mountain varieties. In regions with a relatively warm climate, the plant can overwinter directly on supports. Trimming the shoots is not necessarily enough to protect the root system from severe frosts. Wrapping should be carried out at a height of 40 centimeters from the surface of the ground. To do this, just use a good layer of dry soil and leaves.
A plant that forms buds on both last year’s and young branches needs pruning. After removing unnecessary shoots, the vine must be removed from the support and leveled. Carefully roll the unraveled lashes into a ring and place them on the ground. Sprinkle plenty of dry leaves on top and cover non-woven material. It can be either agrofibre or lutrasila.
Lianas, the flowers of which appear on young shoots, are the most common in our country. They are easy to care for and tolerate frost well. After pruning, such clematis only need hilling. These include hybrid varieties. Additionally, there is no need to cover such flowers.

Conclusion

In order to understand how to properly cover a plant, it is enough to know its variety and how high it climbs. If you follow all the rules autumn care, the plant will certainly delight you with abundant flowering.

How to properly feed and how to fertilize clematis Notes for summer residents From this article you will learn how to properly feed and how to fertilize clematis. To make your clematis “pleasant to the eye,” you should follow simple rules for caring for this flower. As we already know, the agricultural technology for growing clematis is quite simple: clematis needs watering, tying up shoots, pruning, loosening and mulching the soil, and fertilizing. However, the right place for planting clematis plays one of the main roles when growing this flower. As you know, for planting clematis you should choose sunny or slightly shaded places. Clematis does not like drafts or blowing winds, so when choosing a place to grow this plant, take this feature into account. If we talk about the soil, then clematis needs well-fertilized, loose, light, well-permeable, non-acidic, fertile soil. However, no matter how fertile the soil is, clematis will need feeding. Because clematis blooms profusely and for a long time and annually renews almost all its shoots and leaves, then, naturally, it needs strength and energy - nutrients. This is why it is so important to know what fertilizers clematis needs and when is the best time to fertilize. Feeding clematis Already from the end of May - beginning of June (during the period of active growth of clematis), clematis needs not only weeding, loosening and tying up the vines, but also feeding. Most often during this period, gardeners use urea, lime mortar, or liquid manure to feed clematis. When clematis has not yet bloomed, but is just planning to do so, it is worth taking care of the second feeding of the plant. During this period, clematis can be fed with a fertilizer such as “Agricola-7” (1 tablespoon of this drug + potassium sulfate is diluted in a 10-liter bucket of water). During lush flowering clematis needs not only abundant watering, but also in feeding. During the flowering period, it is better to feed clematis with mineral fertilizers or liquid manure. In August, clematis most often begin to get sick, which is why during this period you should closely monitor their health. For better “well-being”, clematis can be fed with mineral fertilizers and ash. Ash not only promotes the ripening of vines, but also improves the winter hardiness of flowers. When clematis fades, it needs the following feeding: the same preparation “Agricola-7” or “Flower” can be diluted in 10 liters of water. And when the growth of clematis comes to an end, it can be fed with Agricola for flowering plants+ superphosphate and potassium sulfate (two tablespoons of Agricola + one tablespoon each of superphosphate and sulfate). Next, clematis needs to be prepared for wintering. Preparing clematis for winter At the end of September, fertilizing clematis stops and preparing the plant for winter begins. It is during this period that clematis can be transplanted to a “safer” place if you initially made a mistake. In September, caring for clematis consists of loosening the soil and weeding. In mid-autumn, clematis requires pruning. Pruning should be done very carefully and carefully. Make sure that the root collar of the plant is underground. If it is on the surface, sprinkle it with humus. When the air temperature begins to drop, clematis will need to be covered. This can be done using dry peat or humus. As for wintering clematis, it is still better to cover the clematis rather than leave it under a layer of snow. An excellent “insulation” for clematis will be crushed polystyrene foam, brushwood or dry leaves. So that your “blanket” for clematis does not “pack” under a layer of snow, it is worth building a sort of rigid frame. A regular wooden box is perfect for this purpose. So, clematis are covered with a layer of drainage, covered wooden box and waterproof material (polyethylene or the like, but with holes for air), sprinkled with earth (a layer of at least 30 cm). In spring, the cover from clematis is removed gradually, in several stages. First, the layer of snow is removed, later holes are made for ventilation, and the polyethylene is finally removed only when the threat of frost has passed. The drainage layer (dry leaves) is also removed gradually so that the plant gets used to the coolness and sun.