Vegetables are "friendly" in the beds. Compatibility of crops in the garden. Vegetable compatibility in the beds: the secrets of a rich harvest Seed compatibility

With the onset of spring, an active time begins for all gardeners and gardeners. They begin to spend more and more time on their plots, trying to grow as many different crops as possible, sometimes in a relatively small area. Strawberries (garden strawberries), with their juicy and tasty fruits, are usually grown by almost everyone. But not everyone knows what to plant next to strawberries so as not to harm them and grow a rich harvest of these wonderful berries.

In fact, strawberries are a rather unpretentious plant and peacefully coexist with many vegetables, fruit plants and flowers. However, some crops are capable of quite negatively affecting its growth and reproduction. We will tell you in detail how to choose the right neighbors suitable for strawberries.

The importance of proper crop rotation

First, let's talk a little about which plants are good precursors for strawberries and which are not. Crop rotation is the most important agrotechnical measure, with its help the soil replenishes its natural reserves. Most crops are not planted in the same place every year because they take different nutrients from the soil. Another reason for crop rotation is that different plants do not treat weeds, diseases and insect pests the same way. Strawberries have some pests, while cucumbers, for example, are completely different.

This rule does not apply only to potatoes, tomatoes and legumes - they can successfully bear fruit for many years in one place without depleting the soil. Strawberries usually give a good harvest for 3-4 years, and then they need to be transplanted to another site. Therefore, you should know which crops will be good predecessors for garden strawberries, and which ones are better to plant after it.

What to plant after strawberries

Each plant has its own requirements for soil, fertilizers, etc. Strawberries love organic fertilizers, loose and well-fertilized soil, in which sufficient amounts of potassium, nitrogen and trace elements must be present. This plant has a deep root system, therefore, observing the principle of alternation, it is better to plant crops with shorter roots in front of it. Also, an important point in crop rotation is that after a disease transferred by a previous plant, a crop that shows sufficient resistance to it should be grown in this place next year.

When deciding what to plant after strawberries, experienced gardeners usually opt for root crops or legumes.

You can safely plant:

• cucumbers;
• radish and turnips;
• onion and garlic;
• , beans, lentils.

Old strawberry bushes must be dug up and must be burned in order to destroy pests and pathogens. Then carefully remove all weeds and dig deep into the soil.

• rosaceous raspberries;
• cloudberries;
• rose hip.

These plants have many diseases and pests in common with garden strawberries. They also have almost the same requirements for the composition of the soil.

The best predecessors of strawberries

The best crops that grew in the garden before planting strawberries on it are:

• radish;
• parsley;
• spinach;
• garlic;
• turnip and radish;
• legumes;
• carrots and beets;
• corn.

Bulbous flowers are also useful predecessors:

• hyacinths;
• tulips;
• daffodils, etc.

If the area of ​​the site allows, agronomists recommend growing strawberries after black fallow or carrying out soil rehabilitation with the help of green manure plants:

• wiki;
• alfalfa;
• buckwheat:
• clover;
• grain crops, etc.

Among other siderates, alkaloid lupine is considered the most suitable for strawberries. It produces substances poisonous for the wireworm, while it is absolutely harmless to the berries, without affecting their taste and edibility in any way.

After digging, the plants will remain in the soil. They will improve its structure, enrich it with nitrogen and have a positive effect on weed control. It is strongly not recommended to plant strawberries after potatoes, cucumbers and tomatoes.

Strawberry planting rules

Combined planting allows you to economically and efficiently manage the area of ​​the garden, especially if it is small. In addition, beneficial neighbors have a beneficial effect on each other, improving the condition, taste and nutritional value of the fruit. Another plus of such plantings is that the plants protect each other from diseases and pests.

There are four rules for planting plants together, which it is advisable to know and observe for every gardener.

• Rule 1. You should not plant a number of crops that have a need for the same nutrients. They will try to take them away from each other, as a result, both plants will not develop well and bear fruit.
• Rule 2. Neighborhood plants with different watering requirements are also undesirable. It turns out that one crop will not have enough water, and the second may suffer from excessive watering.
• Rule 3. Plants should not shade each other. This can be done only when one of the crops requires a shadow, diffused lighting.
• Rule 4. If plants that have common diseases and pests are planted in the same garden or nearby, you can destroy two crops at once. This fit is not strongly recommended.

In the case of growing in greenhouses, it is important that each of the plants is suitable for humidity, light and air temperature.

Strawberries require soft, loose soil that is rich in nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. She also needs abundant watering and sufficient, but not too bright, lighting. Garden strawberries can be affected by late blight, therefore, plants that carry this fungus cannot be planted next to them. Of the pests, the most dangerous for berries are and.

Mulching strawberry beds with coniferous (spruce or pine) needles has a positive effect on its taste.

To get a good, bountiful harvest, you need to select neighbors for strawberries, observing the above recommendations and rules for crop rotation.

Neighborhood with root crops

The best root vegetable neighbor for garden strawberries is root parsley. Planted between berry bushes, it will scare away snails and slugs. Also a good combination is strawberries and carrots, just don't mix them with parsley, you need to choose one thing. But both carrots and parsley coexist well with garlic or onions.

You can also plant next to strawberries:

• beets;
• radish.

It is better to choose varieties for planting, the fruiting time of which coincides with this time for strawberries. Radishes can be planted directly in the aisles, for this they leave a distance between the rows of 50-70 cm. And it is better to place radishes or beets in neighboring beds, but not by combining them with each other, but by choosing one of the crops.

The combination of strawberries with bulbs and herbs

Among bulbous plants, strawberries get along well with garlic and onions. Just do not need to plant them next to each other, since onions and garlic have common diseases and pests. In terms of usefulness, garlic is especially worth noting. It scares off the fungus-causative agent of late blight, and the berry is very susceptible to this disease, especially some varieties. The above-mentioned root parsley is excellent "friends" with garlic.

Strawberries and onions are also good coexistence. If you also plant carrots nearby, these crops will scare away pests from each other, and at the same time protect the strawberry beds. Onions as a neighbor also contributes to the rapid growth of berries and the reproduction of strawberries, eliminates the problem of rotting bushes.

From green crops, the berry goes well with plants such as:

• sorrel;
• spinach;
• cucumber herb;
• different types of salads.

The main part of green crops is unpretentious and does not impoverish the soil. They have no pests in common with strawberries. And even with the correct planting scheme, they can create some darkening - in the southern regions, where there is an active sun, this will be very useful. According to experienced gardeners, greens accelerate the growth of strawberry whiskers, which is important for vegetative propagation. In addition, green crops do not require special care, and herbs (coriander, basil, thyme, anise, tarragon, etc.) repel many pests.

Legumes and strawberries

Plants of the legume family occupy one of the leading positions in the list of neighbors useful for garden strawberries. These are peas, various varieties of beans and lentils, and other crops. Thanks to their root system, they "loosen" the soil and supply it with nitrogen, which is beneficial for the berries. Bean beds can be arranged so that the strawberries are slightly shaded and receive indirect, rather than direct lighting.

However, legumes, due to the production of nitrogen, can increase the acidity of the soil too much. To avoid this, fertilizers containing alkali can be used. And you will have to deal with weeding more carefully, because many weeds also very willingly grow next to legumes.

Strawberries and flower crops

In addition to vegetables and herbs, strawberries are excellent neighbors with flowers, especially with such as tulips and irises. According to experienced gardeners, they are able to increase the yield of garden strawberries several times, well contributing to its growth. This applies to the greatest extent to the varieties of remontant strawberries. In addition, irises and tulips help the thermophilic plant cope with cold winters more easily.

In addition to them, you can plant other flowering plants next to the strawberry garden (or right on it):

• peonies;
• fern;
• jasmine;
• marigolds, etc.

These flower crops also have a beneficial effect on the growth and development of garden strawberries.

Flowers such as. With their properties, they scare off many pests:

• nematode;
• weevil;
• bear;
• onion fly, etc.

In addition, these flowers protect against fusarium, which is very important for strawberries.

You can plant marigolds not only in the beds and in the aisles, but also around the entire garden perimeter. It is also useful to scatter finely chopped stalks of marigolds in it during the spring digging of the soil.

Neighborhood strawberries with trees and shrubs

Favorable for strawberries and neighborhood with various trees and shrubs. They have a good effect on berries, pines, sea buckthorn, grapes, etc. The main thing is that the trees do not shade the beds too much.

In no case should strawberries be planted next to a birch, it tolerates such a neighborhood very badly. So much so that you may not see any harvest at all, having ruined all the berries.

Plants with which strawberries are not planted

For some reason, some gardeners have a deeply rooted opinion about the almost absolute unpretentiousness of strawberries and the ability to plant them with a variety of plants. This statement is partly true: you can plant anything and with anything. The only question is how it will affect the harvest, and simply the survival of the plant.

Here is a list of plants next to which agronomists strongly do not recommend planting strawberries:

• cultures of the nightshade family;
• plants of the clove family;
• raspberries;
• cabbage;
• horseradish;
• sunflower;
• Jerusalem artichoke.

The worst neighbors for garden strawberries will be the crops of the nightshade family: tomatoes and potatoes, especially the latter. In addition to the fact that he consumes the substances necessary for strawberries, he is a carrier of late blight. Such a neighborhood very quickly (in 1.5-2 months) can destroy a strawberry garden.

Also, garden strawberries do not get along with plants of the carnation family. And sunflower and Jerusalem artichoke deplete the soil for a long time and can harm not only strawberries, but also other plants, especially when you consider that the husk of sunflower seeds is poisonous. Planting these plants near strawberry ridges is not recommended categorically.

This also applies to raspberries, which many summer residents often try to plant next to strawberries, and it is completely in vain, since raspberry bushes shade strawberry beds and dramatically dry out the soil. From this, garden strawberries often cease to bear fruit altogether.

Cabbage is an unwanted neighbor as it needs the same nutrients as strawberries. In addition, she needs constant and abundant watering in much larger quantities than garden strawberries. These incompatible crops should not be planted in the same area.

Every strawberry gardener always hopes to get a bountiful harvest of these delicious, wonderful berries. Today we told you about which plants will contribute to this, and which will only bring harm. Taking into account the local climatic features, not forgetting about the correct crop rotation, as well as providing careful care for the plant (timely watering, fertilizing and removing weeds), then the grateful berry will certainly delight the owner with a rich harvest.

Spring comes, the sun warms up the earth, the hot season comes for the gardener. These days, it is very important to plan the usable area of ​​your site and distribute it under the beds occupied by various crops. Today we will try to optimize your planting together by talking about the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. Some plants, as it turns out, are friends, help each other and protect against various pests, while the latter, on the contrary, cause mutual suppression of growth and even death. But we are primarily interested in getting an excellent harvest. This means that the compatibility of vegetables in the beds is a very important and urgent issue.

Is spring planning necessary

Indeed, why should you re-draw your garden every year, if you can once and for all build and plant cucumbers on one, tomatoes on the other, and so on? This is convenient, but somewhat irrational. Each plant requires its own set of trace elements, and it turns out that the garden bed, which has been used for planting the same crop for many years, is oversaturated with unclaimed elements. Or, conversely, devastated by those most important to her. Therefore, crop rotation is essential. However, in a small area, it is sometimes difficult to provide a full-fledged replacement, mixed plantings are forcedly used, and therefore, for their correct organization, you need to know the compatibility of vegetables in the beds.

What can be the beds

We are used to the fact that our land is divided into neat rectangles, on each of which one culture grows. However, there are a lot of options, and in order for your garden to be as productive as possible, you need to know the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. These can be narrow Mittlider beds, which require a large amount of mineral and organic fertilizers, as well as high and multi-tiered beds. The latter are quite complex in arrangement, but they are the best suited for growing several crops. In this case, you should also be concerned about the compatibility of vegetables and flowers on the same bed, because the close proximity of plants allows them to influence each other.

Compacted beds

Sowing multiple crops on the same bed can significantly save space and still get good results. It should be remembered: it is a little easier to maintain the compatibility of vegetables and flowers in one garden bed than to plant several fruit crops at the same time. Here it is already necessary to take into account the difference in the growing seasons. However, let's return to the bright flower and fruit beds. Why use such a technique, is it only for beauty? It turns out not. For example, marigolds, planted near tomatoes, perfectly protect bushes from various pests. Other flowers serve as tasty insect traps. Plant nasturtium in your garden - all the aphids will focus on it, not paying attention to garden vegetables.

and scented herbs

And the greenery in the beds has long been proven, they do not compete, do not interfere with each other, but at the same time you significantly save space and get a pleasant variety for your table. The herbs planted next to the fruit bed will give the vegetables an exquisite taste and will protect them from insects. Rosemary scares away beetles that attack beans, thyme is very disliked by cabbage pests, aphids are afraid of onions and garlic. Oregano, like marigolds, is a reliable protection of the entire fruit area from uninvited guests.

Every gardener, even if he does not have professional knowledge, should have an idea of ​​what the compatibility of vegetables and herbs in the beds is. It doesn't take much for that. So, fast-growing lettuce, radishes and other spring vegetables and herbs can be planted between pumpkin and melons. By the time the powerful pumpkin stalks have grown, the radish will have been harvested. If you plan on planting shade-loving greens such as spinach, then choose tall plants that provide reliable protection. For example, it could be corn. Sunflowers grow well next to corn, the plants do not compete with each other.

We discussed a little general issues, now we will go directly to the types of garden plants. We will consider the compatibility of different vegetables in the garden. How to plant this or that species, the neighborhood with which will bring him more benefit than harm, and much more.

Favorite peas: what to plant next to

This is a plant that gardeners do not like for its creep. However, it is worth considering the compatibility of different vegetables in the beds - and the disadvantage turns into an advantage. The fact is that it gets along well with corn, and its powerful trunks will be an excellent support. Thus, you will harvest two crops from the same garden and save yourself the trouble of tying delicate peas. But you can go even further and unify the garden bed by planting beans or carrots, lettuce, radishes, parsnips or turnips around the perimeter.

What else are peas compatible with? It can be planted among cucumbers, such a neighborhood will benefit both crops. Eggplants and melons love peas, in addition, if potatoes are growing in your garden, be sure to scatter peas over the planting, its roots will enrich the earth with necessary trace elements. But onions and garlic need to be planted away from peas, such a neighborhood is useless at all.

Beauty carrot

We continue to consider the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. Leading agrotechnical companies give advice to gardeners, recommending planting carrots along the edge of the garden with tomatoes and peas. It goes very well with various herbs. This is sage and and rosemary. Therefore, you can make prefabricated beds with fragrant leafy greens and plant them with carrots. Or vice versa. But dill and parsley need to be moved away from the carrots, such a neighborhood leads to a deterioration in the growth and development of the root crop.

Spring onion

This is the first spring source of vitamins that is loved and grown in every garden. However, today we are talking about the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. The list of plants with which the onion is "friendly" is quite large. These are practically all the most important horticultural crops: beets and bell peppers, tomatoes and carrots, lettuce and broccoli. It is very well compatible with onions, spinach, potatoes and cabbage. However, to make you happy with planting, avoid its proximity to beans, sage and peas.

Bell pepper

A capricious culture that does not grow as well in our climatic zone as in more southern regions. However, this can be improved a little by choosing the right neighbors. First of all, you need to remember that it cannot be planted on the same bed with beans. But the neighborhood with tomatoes, on the contrary, is very well tolerated. Remember to plant herbs and aromatic herbs to make the most of the vegetable compatibility in your garden beds. About ten different herbs can grow in the garden at the same time. Basil and coriander, onion and spinach go well with peppers.

Lettuce, a precious source of vitamins

Another plant that eloquently shows the compatibility of vegetables, you can count a dozen fruit crops, which from such a neighborhood will only grow even more magnificently. These are asparagus and beets, sunflowers and tomatoes. Experienced gardeners recommend planting lettuce along with white and Brussels sprouts, carrots and corn, and cucumbers. Given that lettuce grows in a low, curly carpet, it helps to conserve moisture by keeping the liquid from evaporating so quickly. Cucumbers love this neighborhood very much.

There are many ways to plant different plants in the same garden. If this is an ordinary bed on a plane, and not a multi-tiered structure, then, in addition to interspecies competition, you need to take into account the size of the plants. The central part of the bed can be occupied by sunflowers or tall tomatoes, cucumbers, then onions and peas, eggplants can be placed. Or put peas over corn, and plant lettuce around. All these plants complement each other well.

Potato

Often it is this culture that occupies a significant part of the garden, which means that you need to carefully consider the compatibility of vegetables in the garden. Photos of the garden plots of professional gardeners very often show the classic combination of potatoes and legumes. Indeed, beans and peas are perfectly woven over the potato planting, bringing primarily the benefits of enriching the land. Although the legume harvest will not be superfluous either. Potatoes go well with white cabbage and broccoli, corn and eggplants, garlic, lettuce and onions.

The friendliest neighbor is eggplant

Indeed, its compatibility with other vegetables in the garden is fantastic. He has no enemies, he complements almost any culture well. However, if we talk about the health and quality of growth of the eggplant itself, then experts advise planting it next to potatoes and legumes, in particular with beans and peas. Leafy vegetables are great neighbors for eggplant. Experienced gardeners recommend planting next to blue basil and lettuce, spinach.

This begs the question: "In what sequence should you plant vegetables so that the garden bed is as efficient as possible?" We propose the same scheme used by German farmers. They arrange a very wide bed for planting root crops, about 1 meter. At the same time, the potatoes are located in the center (the early varieties can be planted in two rows, and the later ones - in one). On the one hand, eggplant is planted in a line, and on the other, cabbage salad, kohlrabi and cauliflower. All these vegetables can be alternated in one row. Two rows of spinach are sown along the edge of the bed, and the distance between them and the rest of the crops is sown with lettuce and radishes.

Will take place as crops mature. The green umbrella of lettuce appears first, it shades other, slow-growing crops and saves them from the scorching sun. Lettuce ripens first, then spinach, then the turn of radish. After about a month, it’s time for head lettuce and cauliflower. Thus, the bed is gradually emptied, leaving room for the growth and development of eggplant and potatoes. Now it is clear how to use the compatibility of different vegetables in the beds. How to plant correctly - personal experience will tell you, and for the first time use the ready-made scheme.

Peanuts - exotic in our beds

Indeed, this culture is very rarely grown in the garden, but in vain. After all, agricultural technology is no more difficult than growing cucumbers, and you get a valuable and nutritious product. The compatibility of peanuts in the garden with vegetables is due to their high requirements for nutrients. He gets along well with cucumbers, which also love tall, warm and fertilized beds. In addition, any legumes can be planted with it.

Corn

A useful culture that is often undeservedly forgotten. However, it can serve as a natural support for climbing cucumbers, in addition, corn does not like aphids, which means your cucumbers will be under natural protection. Curly legumes are also perfectly compatible with corn and can be planted around the entire perimeter of the garden. These are beans and peas. She gets along well with melons and potatoes, zucchini and sunflowers. But tomatoes are best planted further away.

Tomatoes

A bed of tomatoes is not so conducive to the neighborhood, since voluminous bushes tend to capture all the free space. But you can use different planting methods, for example, arrange a high mound in the center of the garden, on which to plant asparagus and basil, dill, lettuce, onions, parsley, spinach and thyme. Tomatoes love the neighborhood of legumes, so beans can be planted in the aisles. An excellent option for planting in the nearest garden bed will be carrots and melons. But cabbage and corn should occupy another part of the garden.

Cabbage

As you already know, there are a lot of varieties of this plant, while at least white cabbage and cauliflower grow in each garden. It would seem that they can easily be planted on one bed, since you will remove the colored one much earlier than its neighbor is ripe. But in fact, they do not tolerate each other well, therefore, when planning a common garden bed, it is better to give preference to beans and celery, cucumbers. Aromatic herbs get along well with cabbage and help repel insects. These are sage and spinach, thyme, dill, onions. If the planting of white cabbage is not made too thick, then in the aisles you can grow enough greens, as well as radishes.

Cauliflower

It grows poorly next to its closest relative, but it perfectly complements the beds with beans and beets, celery and cucumbers, sage and thyme. Dislikes tomatoes and strawberries. Broccoli goes well with all of the listed plants, but it does not tolerate cauliflower at all, so you will have to form several beds for different types of cabbage. Brussels sprouts are one of the more tolerant ones, they are best combined in the garden with other species. The only enemy is tomatoes, so tomatoes and crucifers should not be planted nearby under any circumstances. But dill and lettuce - please, you can add radishes and sage, spinach and turnips to the garden.

Cucumbers

When planting this culture, make sure that there are no potatoes, melons and aromatic herbs nearby, it is better to plant all the greens along with cabbage. A cucumber loves a tall, warm garden bed, on which peas and beans, corn and lettuce, and radishes will grow well with it. As in the case with the previous example of the universal bed, we allocate the central strip for corn. It will become a support for cucumber, beans and peas, which can be sown not only mixed, but also together, in one hole. Along the edge of the bed, you can plant lettuce and radishes, which will be removed quickly enough.

How to combine incompatible

This question is especially relevant if you have a greenhouse. All vegetables love comfortable conditions, but a large greenhouse should not be empty, and it is occupied by a variety of fruit plants. To separate poorly compatible plant species, film canopies are used, with which the greenhouse is divided into certain sections. This helps to create a kind of microclimate.

Summing up all that has been said, I would like to note that planning mixed beds greatly helps to save space and significantly improves the quality of the crop. Soil resources are used more evenly, and the plants themselves serve as natural defenses for each other against diseases and pests. It should be borne in mind that the planting scheme can be changed to suit the needs of your garden, we have given only general templates. But be sure to respect the compatibility of vegetables. This simple rule always gives excellent results and does not require any additional costs and investments. Experienced gardeners remove 11-15 kg of a wide variety of vegetables from one garden bed. Positioning the plants correctly in the garden also saves resources, as less water and fertilizer are required. That, perhaps, is all about what constitutes the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. The list of plants that are “friendly” and “not friendly” with each other is given at the beginning of our review in the form of a table. Use it - and you are guaranteed a good harvest!

After plants affected by certain diseases and pests, those that are resistant to them are planted. This is especially important for cabbage and nightshades (tomato, potato). Related plant crops (tomato-potato, cucumber-pumpkin) suffer from the same diseases.

To prevent one-sided soil depletion, plants alternate depending on what nutrients they require. In a simplified form - you can alternate "tops" and "roots" (for example, carrots are grown after cabbage or tomatoes).

After onions and garlic, all crops can be planted. Re-seeding onions and garlic is not recommended.

After tomatoes and potatoes: cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, beans, peas, garlic, beets, lettuce, carrots, parsley, dill, celery.

After cucumbers, zucchini, squash are planted: radishes, cabbage, beets, onions, garlic, peas, beans, tomatoes, potatoes.

After carrots, dill, parsley, celery are planted: onions, garlic, beans, peas, potatoes, tomatoes.

After strawberries (after 4 years) - root crops and legumes, the next year - pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, after - tomatoes, onions. After beans, peas, onions and garlic, you can plant any crops.

The best predecessors for major vegetable crops are:

for green crops (except for salad) - cabbage, cucumber, root vegetables, onions;

For early white cabbage and cauliflower - potatoes, tomatoes, onions for turnips, legumes, root vegetables (except for radishes, turnips, radishes and rutabagas);

For medium and late white cabbage - tomato, potatoes, legumes, carrots, beets;

For onions on a turnip - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, early potatoes, legumes, late cabbage and potatoes;

For cucumber - early white cabbage and cauliflower, tomato, potatoes, legumes (except for beans), root crops (except for carrots), since beans and carrots are affected by white rot, like cucumber;

For carrots - potatoes, cabbage, green crops (except for lettuce with white rot), tomato, legumes (except for beans);

For beets - cucumber and other pumpkin seeds, early potatoes, cabbage, tomato and all legumes, late cabbage;

For potatoes - cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, squash, cabbage, legumes, root vegetables, onions;

For tomato, pepper, eggplant, physalis - early white cabbage and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, turnip onions, root vegetables, late cabbage;

For garlic - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, legumes, late cabbage;

Plant compatibility

Joint planting of plants, taking into account their compatibility, can significantly increase the yield. In the case of incompatibility (suppression) - yields are reduced.

Compatible plants :

For beans, the most favorable neighbors are cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant the beans around the cucumber beds. The beans go well with mustard, potatoes, radishes, radishes, sweet corn, spinach. The inclusion of beans in the planting of these plants improves the nutrition of the latter with nitrogen. Scented basil, planted next to the beans, reduces damage by the bean caryopsis. Other useful herbs for beans include borage, oregano, rosemary, and yarrow.

Radish and oil radish have a beneficial effect on grapes.
Parsley heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.

Relationships of mutual assistance were noted in peas with carrots, cucumbers, and turnips. Peas grow well between the rows of these crops and, like all legumes, enrich the soil with nitrogen.
Mustard scares away the pea moth from peas and inhibits weeds
Peas are also compatible with oats and celery. Tomatoes secrete biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas.
Mustard root secretions (in mixed crops) stimulate the growth of peas.

Strawberries are favorably influenced by: bush beans, parsley, spinach. Garlic - protects. Parsley, planted in the aisles of strawberries - scares away slugs.
Strawberries can be combined with cabbage, onions, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets, garlic. Of the herbs, borage (orype grass) and sage work well on it. Mulching the soil during the period of fruit formation with spruce and pine needles - significantly improves the taste of strawberries;

White cabbage prefers lettuce, onions, celery, dill, bush beans, radishes and even potatoes as neighbors.
Dill, planted between cabbage rows, improves its taste and repels caterpillars and aphids.
Celery protects cabbage from earthen fleas and cabbage flies, but attracts cabbage whites with its smell, which means that it is undesirable to place them together.
For cabbage, the proximity to cucumber grass is also favorable, which has a good effect on cabbage and drives away snails with its hard hairy leaves.
A very good companion crop for cabbage is lettuce (all kinds) It also protects it from earthen flea beetles.
Cabbage is in great need of protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies that lay eggs on its leaves. This role can be played by aromatic herbs, which mask the smell of cabbage with their strong odor. Therefore, it is recommended to plant hyssop, mint, wormwood, chamomile, savory, sage around cabbage plantings.
Leeks scare away the moth caterpillars.
In the aisles of cabbage, it is appropriate to plant marigolds, nasturtium, marigolds - they scare off aphids, cabbage and carrot flies, white flies.
Parsnips attract predatory insects that destroy caterpillars.
Head lettuce, celery onion, beets are compatible with broccoli.
Undesirable for cabbage: tomatoes, beans, carrots.

Potatoes get along well with eggplant, cabbage, corn, onions, spinach, beans, horseradish, garlic and mint. The potato protects the beans from bruchus, and the beans feed the potatoes with nitrogen. The above plants complement each other favorably, as they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons. When growing potatoes in a mixed culture with compatible plants, it is less sick and grows in one place for many years, with a stable yield. Potatoes are partial to cabbage, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, and garlic. The best potato partners are beans, bush beans, and spinach. Beans, planted in the aisles of potatoes, enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle. Potatoes go well with cabbage, especially with cauliflower kohlrabi, corn, radishes and different types of lettuce. Horseradish planted with bushes on a potato plot has a beneficial effect on potatoes. The Colorado potato beetle is scared off by marigolds, catnip, coriander, nasturtium, tansy. Phytoncides of onions and garlic quickly destroy the pathogenic potato fungus - phytophthora.

Corn is a nutritionally demanding plant, so it goes very well with both bush and climbing beans, for which corn is the mainstay. Corn is combined with beans, cucumbers, tomatoes, early potatoes, salad. It is recommended to plant cucumbers around corn plots. In terms of allelopathy, corn is a very friendly plant for many crops. It has a beneficial effect on potatoes and sunflowers.
Corn is compacted with squash, pumpkin, as well as beans or peas, for which the corn stalk serves as a support. Peas with beans contribute to the accumulation of nitrogen in the soil.
Soy protects corn from turtles
Bad neighbors for corn - beetroot and celery

Onions and carrots protect each other from pests: carrots repel the onion fly, and onions repel the carrot fly.
Onions are combined with strawberries, watercress, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, parsley. Edging of onion beds with savory is favorable for onion growth, chamomile also works well on it, but only with a small number of chamomile bushes (one per running meter of the garden).
By placing onion and garlic with separate plants next to cucumbers, you can protect them from bacteriosis. Onions do not go well with beans, peas, beans. The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.

Raspberries protect the apple tree from scab, and the apple tree raspberry - from gray rot.

Carrots and peas mutually enrich each other. Carrots are also friendly with tomatoes, lettuce, dill, onions, garlic, radishes and radishes, but they are not compatible with cabbage.
Root secretions of beets planted along the edge of the garden - heals the carrots.

Mint (lemon balm) - grows well in sorrel thickets.

Strawberries or medicinal herbs are grown under sea buckthorn: chamomile, oregano. These herbs with sea buckthorn leaf make a good vitamin tea.

Cucumbers are friends with peas and cabbage, but shy away from the grapevine. If you sow dill between cucumbers, the duration of their fruiting will increase, and therefore the harvest. Cucumbers are also compatible with beans, lettuce, onions, celery, beets, parsley. Onion phytoncides destroy spider mites on cucumbers.

The nut has no compatible crops;

Spring garlic and dill will help tomatoes. Tomatoes themselves help other plants. Tall tomatoes are planted to scare away moth butterflies and protect pears and apple trees from scab. Tomatoes secrete biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas, cabbage, onions, beans.
Fragrant basil improves the taste of tomatoes;

Radish is friends with carrots, cucumbers, parsnips, tomatoes, beets, pumpkin and spinach;

The salad scares the earthen flea from radish, radish, cabbage;

A radish planted between bush beans will be larger and tastier. This is facilitated, as well - nasturtium and watercress.

Beets get along well with salad, peas, cabbage, dill and parsley;

Prefers celery in neighbors: tomato, beans, spinach, onion, cucumber, cabbage

Currants are not damaged by a bud mite if you plant an onion between the bushes and leave it in the ground for the winter.

Soybeans are friends with all cultures.

Asparagus and marigolds - help in the fight against nematodes.

Beans, pumpkin and corn have long been planted together. The pumpkin inhibited the growth of weeds, shading the soil with its foliage, the corn protected the pumpkin from overheating, the beans enriched the soil with nitrogen. These plants complement each other, as they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons, different mineral elements are needed for their development, they relate to lighting in different ways.

Spicy plants are sown between vegetables and trees - anise, basil, coriander, lemon balm, parsley, thyme, tarragon. The smell of these plants, their phytoncides - prevents the spread of pests and diseases.

If you plant marigolds, nasturtium, calendula (marigolds), chicory between the ridges of potatoes or onions, and plow bunches of rye straw into the soil, they will protect these crops from nematode damage. Marigolds, leaf mustard, marigolds, celandine, spinach - they heal the soil.

If a border of marigolds is made around the area where the roses are planted, it will become impossible for the roses to be damaged by nematodes.

Parsley will drive the ants away, and it also heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.

Cinerarielous tansy, or Dalmatian chamomile, saves cabbage from aphids, caterpillars of a cabbage scoop and whiteworm, and an apple tree - from aphids, codling moth and other pests. The powder of this plant was used to fight fleas, bedbugs, flies, cockroaches and even mice. You can also use pink tansy and similar red tansy. These plants are also known as Persian chamomile and Caucasian chamomile.

Get along with salad: carrots, cucumbers, legumes, radishes;

Beans are compatible with cabbage, cucumbers, and sugar beets. Beans are useful for planting other crops, as they help get rid of the meadow moth.

Garlic protects asters, carnations, gladioli, roses from powdery mildew, black leg, black spot and fusarium, and reduces the incidence of gray mold cloves.

Apple tree - raspberry

Stevia (Honey Herb) - Can grow next to garlic and onions, even in a flower pot, on a window.

Celery, dill, onions, carrots are well planted side by side. They can be planted together or sequentially, one after the other.

Incompatible plants:

Grapes are incompatible with cabbage, which is the enemy of grapes;

Peas - incompatible with rutabagas, beans, tomato;
Garokh and beans conflict with onions and garlic;

Combinations of peas with all types of onions, tomatoes, garlic, rutabaga, beans are unfavorable;

It has a bad effect on peas - bitter wormwood;

The walnut oppresses everything that comes under its crown;

Cabbage - it is incompatible with tomatoes, carrots;
Cabbage is not combined with parsley, carrots and suffers greatly from closely growing grapes;
Tansy is bad for collard greens.

Potatoes are incompatible with sunflowers, tomatoes and pumpkin (they can cause late blight disease in him);
Potatoes oppress: cherry, apple, raspberry, mountain ash, sunflower;
Potatoes do not tolerate cucumbers, tomatoes and pumpkins;
It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery;

Bad neighbors for corn are beetroot and celery;

Do not plant currants and gooseberries nearby (damage from a gooseberry fire);

Onions are not combined with beans, peas, beans (cabbage, potatoes -?). The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.

Raspberries and strawberries - if they are nearby, it contributes to the reproduction of the strawberry-raspberry weevil;

Sea buckthorn, strawberries and nightshades - if they are nearby, this contributes to the development of the same diseases;

Cucumbers are suppressed with tomatoes;
Cucumbers are at odds with potatoes and aromatic herbs;

Peach oppresses cherries, pears and apple trees. They should be planted away from each other.

Parsley - cucumber, head salad;

Tomato, dill and beans are incompatible with cabbage;
Tomatoes are aggressive towards grapes; Tomatoes - cucumber, turnip, peas, beets, parsley, apple tree, red cabbage; Tomatoes are oppressed by potatoes and turnips.

Radish - spinach;
Redkin's enemy is hyssop;

The salad is incompatible with leaf mustard;

Beets do not get along well with potatoes, spinach, corn;

Poplar is very aggressive - many cultivated plants (apple, corn) suffocate in its vapors;

Pumpkin - potatoes;

Beans - Suppressed by shallots

Fennel - oppresses almost all cultivated plants.

The action of herbs: sage is incompatible with onions, marigolds have a bad effect on beans, wormwood - on beans and peas, and tansy - on leafy cabbage;

Let's think together, why do we need mixed plantings? This is when different crops do not grow in separate beds, but in adjacent rows or mixed.

In nature, there are no large areas occupied by one species. There is always a mixture of grasses in the meadow, in the forest there are not only different types of trees, but also shrubs, grasses, mosses. Even in a field where only one crop is planted after plowing, weeds grow. We can also create a vegetable garden in which plants coexist.

Of course, there will be unwanted "aliens" here, but they will not cause much harm. This is because a rich, diverse ecosystem will be in balance! How can this be done? The answer is simple - apply the mixed planting method. To do this, you need to know which plants are good neighbors, and plan the area so as to ensure the closest possible proximity of different crops. They should not grow in large arrays, but in adjacent rows or holes.

Better at the border

It has long been noticed that plants grow better at the border of various ecosystems: at the edge of a forest, on the shore of a reservoir, at the edge of a field. To recreate the border effect, I am using a spiral bed. On it, the border is twisted into a spiral and there is a place for many microclimatic areas: the higher, the drier and warmer, there are shady and sunny sides. Usually I plant spicy aromatic plants on a spiral bed. Here is a variant of the sequence of plants: sorrel, valerian, onions, peppermint, clary sage, oak sage, garden thyme, oregano, garden strawberry, medicinal sage, cumin, rosemary.

You can simply alternate the rows, referring to the Crop Compatibility Chart. However, it must be remembered that the influence of plants on each other depends on the conditions in which they grow. Sometimes in large numbers they oppress neighbors, and in moderate numbers they are helpers. In general, it will take creativity and your observations.

Cultural compatibility

Choose your main crop (eg tomatoes) first. Then find a neighbor that works well for the main plant. In our case, it can be lettuce or spinach - they will give a crop before the tomatoes begin to bear fruit. Tall tomato plants will protect greenery from direct sunlight and create a more favorable microclimate for them. After harvesting, the salad can be sown again. It is worth planting nearby aromatic herbs that repel pests. You just need to make sure that they do not drown out the main culture.

Consider the timing of the ripening of the crop. If you harvest one crop earlier, you should find a replacement plant for it. You can't leave the ground bare. It is mulched, green manure is planted.

When choosing crops, attention should be paid to reducing competition between them. Plants with a deep root system will get along better with those with shallow roots; species with a low nutritional requirement will not interfere with those who need a lot of nutrients; tall, spreading crops will protect those who like light partial shade from the sun.

Only the water needs of the neighbors should be similar.

Deep-rooted plants:
Eggplant, legumes (except peas), cabbage, leeks, carrots, parsnips, peppers, radishes, beets, celery root, tomatoes, pumpkin.

Plants with a shallow root system:
Lettuce, peas, potatoes, kohlrabi, watercress, corn, onions, cucumbers, parsley, leaf celery, radish, melon, spinach.

Mixed plantings perform several functions: protecting plants from diseases and pests, increasing the yield per unit area, protecting the soil from unilateral depletion, and reducing the number of weeds. Fruits and vegetables growing in community with other species are tastier: mint improves the taste of potatoes, parsley - tomatoes.

If you choose the right plants, they will help each other and delight the owner. This is the most efficient use of your plot of land.

I have been using compaction of crops and joint planting for a long time in my garden. I sow carrots through a row with onions, plant beds with cabbage with savory, potatoes with beans. And nursery plants such as calendula, marigolds and nasturtium grow throughout the garden.

Cauliflower in marigolds.

"Kommunalka" for celery

I decided to compact the plantings of Brussels sprouts, broccoli and early cabbage, planting root celery in the aisles of them. These cultures mix well. Cabbage stimulates the growth of celery, which drives away white butterflies from the cabbage.

At first, everything went like clockwork: both cabbage and celery developed perfectly. But in the second half of the summer, where Brussels sprouts with celery grew, I saw that the first was noticeably ahead of its neighbor in growth. Soon the top leaves of the cabbage closed together, and my celery was in the lower tier, in thick shade.

I looked after this "communal" bed especially carefully. The cabbage was good, but the celery was "sad" day by day.

I realized that I made a mistake - it was impossible to plant late-ripening crops nearby. And if she decided to do this, then it was necessary to leave such a distance between them so that everyone had enough space and light. My celery was clearly not getting it. He never formed powerful rhizomes, he had to be content with only greens.

Celery planted with early cabbage is another matter! Already in July, all the heads of cabbage were cut, and celery remained the rightful owner in the garden. The conclusion suggests itself this: for any plants, first of all, it is necessary to create optimal conditions for development, namely: sufficient nutrition, watering, lighting. And then the cultures planted nearby can remain friends for a long time.

Who is friends with whom?

Everyone knows that onions and carrots are best friends in the garden. One crop repels pests of another and vice versa. After sprouting carrots, I plant onion seedlings in the gaps found.

Sweet couple.

I fill in the same gaps in the beets with lettuce. An early radish bed can be sown with siderat. But it is more economical to sow radishes right in the aisles of carrots. Carrots emerge slowly, seedlings remain low for a long time and cannot shade the fast-growing radish in any way. Thus, I get a double crop from one bed. I sow seeds of early ripening dill in peas: after a while, its antennae will catch on to the stalks of dill.

I sow beans along the perimeter of the site with potatoes. At first, she is a little depressed in growth, but after digging up the potatoes, she develops perfectly and has time to ripen. I add onions to the tomatoes - I plant the sets between the bushes, but only on greens. After all, tomatoes grow quickly and strongly shade their neighbor.

Otherwise, someone will definitely start harassing a neighbor. In general, everything is like people. How not to recall the old saying: "Friendship is friendship, and tobacco is apart!"

Vegetable beds or why do plants need satellites?

Gardeners have long noticed that nearby plants influence each other. They emit various substances into the environment that their neighbors “like” or “dislike”. For example, early cabbage and tomatoes, late cabbage and early potatoes, tomatoes and celery, beans and potatoes feel good next to them.

Potatoes and cabbage.

Mustard leaves, marigolds, calendula, and basil heal the soil and help all crops. I plant them along the edge of the beds, at the entrance to the greenhouses.

There is another big plus in mixed plantings. This is the flight of our imagination. Let's get rid of the stereotype that cabbage should sit in even rows! I plant plants at random (at the corners of the triangle, the contour of the circle), around - nasturtium with marigolds. And the garden looks festive. And the smell of flowers scares away butterflies.

Eggplants and marigolds.

I "add" several phacelia flowers to cucumbers - and they attract with the smell of pollinating insects. So simply the site turns into a piece of paradise - a place where you can rest your soul.

I place satellite plants in the aisles or nests among the main crop. Such mixed plantings create a favorable background, increase disease resistance and even affect the palatability of the fruit. With mixed plantings, soil fatigue does not occur, the number of pests is significantly reduced, since the smell of their "food" is interrupted by the smell of other plants. In addition, such beds create an ideal refuge for predatory insects that feed on pests in the garden.

Roman onion with melon

I have my own, proven over the years, method of growing several crops in one bed. For example, onions with melons and watermelons. The harvest is excellent! On a bed (2-2.2 m wide), usually in April - early May (on the waning moon), I plant turnip onion seedlings along the edge in two rows with a distance of 40-50 cm between them. 100 cm.

At home I sow seeds of watermelons and melons for seedlings. Then I carefully transplant the seedlings into open ground, in the center of the beds with onions, at a distance of 70-90 cm from each other. To prevent stress and disease, I treat onions and melons with a microbiological preparation and an infusion of wood ash (200 g per 10 liters of water). I water it using a drip irrigation system. In the middle of summer, I harvest the ripe bulbs. After the ovary appears on the lashes of watermelons and melons, I leave only 2-3 fruits per bush. They will grow large and tasty. Using the same technology, I add melons to winter garlic.

Text: garden portalhttp://agraruu.net/

There are plant species that get along well with each other and certain species that slow down the growth of neighbors and grow slowly on their own. In general, some plants love each other and some hate each other.

Combined plantings can be quite difficult and often too difficult, but with experience you will begin to understand better and the process will go faster. The main thing is not to get carried away by excessive planning, otherwise the pleasure of planting will wane.

Nobody says that you cannot grow certain plants in the same garden, the main thing is not to plant them next to each other. Below is a table with which you can see which plants get along well with each other and which do not.

Combined landings are not an easy task. There are such criteria as the age of the plants, their number in the garden, the distance between the plants. With the proper approach, you can figure out for yourself which is better or worse for certain species.

Vegetable compatibility chart.

List of herbs, their properties and plants that go well with them.