How a fiberglass casting from a matrix became a boat. How to build a fiberglass boat We build a modern cabin boat with our own hands

For a long time I wanted to create a record with a mark of the main points in the manufacture of the boat, but it still did not work out! Dad is getting older every year, but there is still no crib, although we have made more than one pair of boats with him ... And this year there was a need to expand our fleet, because the kids are growing up and boats are needed more stable and lifting, for reliability movement. I myself used to swim out, but with my sons this must be warned! It's time to take out the previously stocked boards, trimmed, planed, prepared nails, and, one weekend, got down to business! (It is better to use spruce boards, without knots, but there is not always what you need)

First of all, Dad sketched a small drawing with dimensions, based on the requirements and previous construction projects

Then they laid out the boards for the bottom, drew a contour on them according to the dimensions, cut out the main one with a jigsaw, left only along the edges, this can be seen in the photographs.

When fitting the boards to one another, we leave gaps in the stern and in the bow, but in the middle we adjust more or less tightly

When all the details are prepared, we begin to assemble the bottom, first, having tightly assembled the boards, we sew them together with nails in the middle of the crossbar, then with the help of a rope and two crowbars we tighten the stern, we sew it with nails, we do the same with the bow

Due to the fact that the crossbars are rounded, and gaps were left between the boards in the bow and stern, during screeding and assembly, the bottom turns out to be a little sphere both across and along. In the future, this gives the stability of the boat on the water. It is not necessary to adjust and tighten the bottom boards to microns, small cracks are quite acceptable, this will facilitate bottom caulking.

When the bottom is assembled, we cut out the edges according to the intended dimensions and markings so that the edges are smooth, otherwise it will not work to bend the side boards clearly

The most interesting thing is ahead, you need to bend the sides at the same time on both sides, if bending in turn can warp and the boat will turn out to be skewed. We attach the side board to the bow on one side, sew it on, then the same on the second side, then one presses it by bending the boards, the second pierces it with nails towards the stern.

The boards were pulled together as well as the bottom - with a rope. As a result, some form was drawn, further it is easier. In the same way, we bend the second row of side boards. We do not beat a lot of nails when stitching, because it will still be necessary to caulk! Next, we saw off the extra ends of the boards, both side and bow with the stern. Then you adjust the front nose board.

After the end of the assembly, you work as a planer, where you need to round, level, go through the entire longboat, cut out the frames beautifully. After restoring beauty, we caulk, add nails in places, fasten the oarlocks, tar the bottom, nail the flashings to the bottom, tar them, then paint. We also make seats for whom we paint them as conveniently as possible. Our oars are transferable, we change boats, but the oars are the same. Oarlocks on all our boats are the same, so that without problems.

In principle, I tried to take into account all the stages and subtleties in the photograph, so that it was clear. Two boats have now been put together, one for the opening, the second quite recently. The boats were made identical, one was tested, the second was at the stage of completion.

If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask! True, questions usually arise during self-production, suddenly someone will take it and make a piece of wood. For those who live near the lake, a piece of wood is indispensable!

Thank you for your attention!

Drawings and photos

Fifteen projects of watercraft, rowing boats, motor boats, boats, yachts

Simple flat-bottomed boats built of tess can be found on any river or lake. It never occurs to anyone to ask the name of their designer.

This is understandable, because it is the fruit of the creativity of many generations of local craftsmen. Over the years, the simplicity of design has been honed, as well as the shape of the hull, the most appropriate for specific conditions. And as a result - boats in different pools, even if they have a common characteristic feature - a flat bottom, differ significantly from each other in terms of the contours of the hull and the method of construction.

Rowing boats

Motor boats

Such boats are widely used in the lower reaches of large rivers flowing into the Atlantic Ocean, in the vast shallow bays of the east coast of the United States and Canada. It is easy to see the main features of boats of this type, which led to their wide popularity in the past and at the beginning of this century, while outboard motors had not yet replaced the oar and sail.

These boats are distinguished by a moderate ratio of the length of the boat to the minimum width of the bottom. For example, on our boat it is 3.5:1. This means that the boat is light enough under oars and has good stability to sail. The curve of the keel line makes it easier to navigate in shallow water: the boat runs aground in the middle part of the bottom and it is not difficult to turn it around and push it back into clear water. The high freeboard in the bow, the collapse of the sides along the entire length and the sheer line of the side indicate the possibility of using the boat on a wave.

p.s. When copying materials and photos, a link to the site is required.

Saratov 2007-2015

A boat on the farm may be needed not only for fishing, hunting or recreation on the water. In sparsely populated regions with a developed network of waterways, a boat is a necessity, and in populated areas, the production and rental of watercraft is a profitable business. Everyone knows how boaters make money at resorts. However, in trade classifiers, small boats do not belong to goods whose pricing is subject to regulation. Therefore, the question: is this possible at all, and how a boat is made with one's own hands is quite popular. The answer to the first question is unambiguous: yes, and much easier than is commonly believed. A good, roomy, reliable and seaworthy boat can be made far from the water without a boathouse and a slipway, in any room that is suitable in size. And how - there is this article about it.

In preparing materials for this publication, the books “300 Tips on Boats, Boats and Motors” were of great help. G. M. Novak. L. Shipbuilding 1977 and "Kurbatov D. A. 15 projects of vessels for amateur construction" L. Shipbuilding 1986. The author expresses his deep gratitude to the authors of these informative guides. Further, in the hints to the illustrations, they are designated “H74”, “H77” and “K.”, respectively. As for the years of publication, have the waters and winds changed since then? Today's ships are built and sail according to the same laws, only modern materials and computer technology allow them to be used more fully.

Organizational questions

The reader probably already has questions: is it really so simple? Built - and swim? With a wife, kids, passengers, at sea in a storm? Depending on the circumstances, you may need a trail for a rigid hull boat. documents and supplies:

1. A boat for myself only, a small non-navigable body of water - sales receipts for used materials in case you need to prove that they were not stolen. A reservoir is considered small, in which the distance from the coast is possible by no more than 500 m, and a single boat is only for itself;
2. A boat for oneself, a navigable body of water of any size - an additional certificate for the right to drive a small boat (an analogue of the rights to motor vehicles) and a certificate of its registration. Both are issued by the local authorities of the transport (water) inspection. On board the boat must be marked with its registration number in the prescribed form;
3. The same as according to paragraphs. 1 and 2, there can be free passengers in the boat - except for documents under paragraphs. 1 and 2 also a life jacket for each person on board and a mandatory minimum set of supplies, see below;
4. All the same, but passengers or cargo are paid - in addition, a license for the right of passenger or cargo transportation by water;
5. All according to paragraphs. 1-4, sailing or motor-sailing boat, incl. with a complete emergency sail - in addition, a yacht helmsman's certificate or other certificate for the right to control a sailing vessel;
6. The boat is made for sale, not serial - a license for the right to manufacture small boats.

I must say that in non-navigable water bodies, violations of paragraphs. 1-3 are massive, and in sparsely populated areas - indiscriminate. The Water Inspectorate has neither legal nor organizational and technical capabilities to get there. Therefore, claims against the owner of the vessel arise or his criminal prosecution begins only upon the fact of the consequences of the accident.

What is yes and what is not?

There are countless designs of small boats, but for a novice amateur when choosing a prototype you need to follow the trail. considerations that a homemade boat must satisfy:

1. The boat must be built according to a proven design and / or with full consideration of the vital provisions of the theory of the ship, the rules of shipbuilding and navigation, see below;
2. The boat must be reliable, i.e. strong, durable, stable, capacious in terms of weight and volume, sufficiently seaworthy for the given navigation conditions and at the same time controllable in waves, currents in the river and in a shallow overgrown reservoir;
3. The boat should be light enough so that the owner can single-handedly pull it ashore or launch it, and with an adult physically averagely developed assistant, load it for transportation;
4. Boat building technology should not include operations requiring special skills or production equipment, but should be forgiving of beginner mistakes and replacing standard materials and manufacturing methods with those available under the circumstances;
5. It is desirable that the boat can walk well and stay on the wave on oars, under the engine and sail - to save fuel and have a good rest;
6. The cost of building a boat should be kept to a minimum;
7. If the boat is stored away from a body of water, it is highly desirable that it meet the requirements for cartop ships, i.e. allowed transportation on the top trunk of a car.

For the whole set of qualities, except for the price of materials, a plywood boat will be the best choice for your first boat. The boardwalk will cost approx. half the price, but it will be as much heavier and will last much less, except for the option with a thin-walled steel bottom, see below. Homemade fiberglass boats are expensive and difficult to build, although they are reliable and durable. Subject to all these conditions, the following are not considered further:

• All-metal welded and riveted boats.
• Gliding ships.
• Small pleasure catamarans.
• Boats made of foam plastic, plastic bottles, pontoon boats and planks of rectangular shape, etc. exotic.
• Inflatable boat.

The grounds for such "truncation" are as follows. All-metal home-made vessels are not examined and registered by the transport inspection bodies due to the fact that it is technically impossible to ensure their proper reliability in artisanal conditions.

Building a glider is not a job for a beginner. Regular dynamic loads on the planing hull are high, and you can take on it after making sure that your first boat still floats well. Although, it must be said, having some experience, at home it is quite possible to build a boat-kartop that goes on gliding on a small wave under a motor of only 3.5-6 hp, see for example. track. video.

Video: an example of a homemade glider boat and its testing

Boat exotics from improvised materials are simply dangerous. For example, a monohull foam boat will either be something extremely fragile, suitable for swimming only in a paddock fence, or an almost uncontrollable raft, highly susceptible to drift by currents or winds.

As for inflatable boats, the enthusiasm for them is explained, in addition to the possibility of carrying on oneself, by the fact that in order to register a purchased “gum” boat on a navigable reservoir, it is enough to present a manufacturer’s certificate, and even then the water inspection looks at him through his fingers to the side. However, this does not apply to homemade inflatable boats in any way.

At the same time, it is enough to look at the patterns of the simplest inflatable boat (see fig.) to make sure that it is much more difficult to glue its seams properly in artisanal conditions than to build a more capacious and reliable boat with a rigid hull, and quality materials for a soft plastic boat will cost a lot more than the best plywood and epoxy.

But the most important thing: without special equipment, it is generally impossible to reliably (without the possibility of inspection) to glue bulkheads into a cylinder. A home-made "gum" will be one-balloon: suddenly there is a hole, and you are not in a life jacket, it is far from the shore, or the reservoir is heavily overgrown - you just have to mentally sum up your life. For the end is near.

Note: if you definitely want to glue your boat instead of building it, then it’s better to make it from ... scraps of water pipes. You can’t blow off such a boat and hide it in a backpack, but it will be unsinkable. How to make a boat out of PVC pipes, see the video below.

Video: an example of a homemade PVC pipe boat

What to do?

There are also many designs of plywood and plank boats that do not require production conditions for the construction; People have been swimming since time immemorial. Let's try to decide how a novice shipbuilder-navigator can navigate in this diversity. For example, boats such as canoes (item 1 in the figure), kayaks, kayaks or domestic troubles are very walkable, very seaworthy and at the same time are not afraid of overgrown shallow waters. However, to manage them, not only experience is needed, but a great art. In terms of the number of drownings among beginners, canoe-type boats are firmly in the top of the rating among small boats. In addition, such rigid-hulled boats are technologically complex, because their contours are of double curvature.

The Russian fofan boat (pos. 2) is no less legendary in its reliability than the American dory (see below), but it is very stable, roomy, and a green salaga can manage it. Twisted contours in the bow make the fofan well suited to the wave in full load, and together with the “pot-bellied” hull, gentle contours in the stern and a deepened transom, it is able to go quite quickly, up to 20 km / h or more, under a sufficiently powerful motor in a transitional (semi-planing ) mode. But, as we can see, the contours of the fofan are also doubly curved, and it is heavy: to turn the fofan, you need at least 2-3 strong men.

The pleasure and fishing boat Russian dinghy (pos. 3; Russian because there is also an American dinghy dinghy boat, see below) is light, but again with double curvature contours. The same applies to the marine sailboat, pos. 5, although under sail she keeps steadily on course on a 4-point wave, and it is possible to pull her ashore alone.

Blow once!

So, we decided on one more requirement in a home-made plywood boat: its contours must be of single curvature, i.e. the surfaces forming the body shall be curved planes. For small quiet inland waters, the best choice would be a skiff-type punt boat, pos. 5. The Scythians in such conditions proved to be the most reliable courts. In addition, skiff boats are cheap, easy to build, light: a 4-meter skiff with a galvanized bottom can be lifted and loaded by one person. An additional advantage for these sailing conditions is that the Scythians are perfectly controlled in the course and in overgrown reservoirs. There is simply nothing for water or algae to grab onto.

Note: contrary to popular belief, a skiff boat can sail perfectly, see below. But - only on calm water! On a wave, the Scythian, like any shallow-draft punt, becomes dangerous - the wave hits the bottom, knocking the ship off course and trying to capsize.

In somewhat more difficult sailing conditions, on waves up to 2-3 points, a dinghy boat will be optimal. In appearance, the dinghy is easy to recognize by the bow transom-forespiegel and the keeled (as they say, having a transverse V) bottom, pos. 6. The latter makes it easier for the dinghy to climb the wave, and the forespille makes the ratio of capacity to overall dimensions and dead weight of the dinghy almost a record. Thanks to this, the dinghy is the most popular weekend boat among residents of places far from the water: a 2-3-seater dinghy on the top trunk fits into the dimensions of a car, and can weigh less than 50 kg. Technologically, the dinghy is even simpler than the skiff - it can be assembled by sewing plywood (see below) just on the floor in the apartment.

Dinghy under sail (pos. 7) is quite safe, but very nimble, and therefore an excellent vessel for initial sailing training. I learned how to manage this - you can safely move on to the tiller / steering wheel and sheets of a large yacht. In the USSR, the Golden Fish dinghy was widely used to train teenage cadets in yacht clubs.

Note: in coastal areas, one can often meet nautical pointed-nosed dinghs. Outwardly, they look like a fofan squeezed along (pos. 8), but in fact the hydrodynamics and mechanics of their body are almost the same as those of a dinghy with a forespiegel.

Finally, if you live by the sea or a large inland lake, know the big water and longed to finally build a boat for it with your own hands, then the choice should be stopped on the dory. Dory boats are truly ocean-going. Newfoundland fishermen have caught and are catching fish 280 and even 400 km from the coast. The seaworthiness and reliability of dories are phenomenal: there are many cases when large reliable ships were wrecked in a severe storm, and dories then returned home safely in the same waters.

Dory boats are known in 2 modifications: purely rowing banking and sailing (pos. 9). To manage a bank dory, you need to be a salty sailor from childhood, because. their static stability is low. The sailing dory is not so capricious; a beginner who knows the basics of sailing a ship is able to learn how to manage it. In addition, it is possible to install a motor in a well on a sailing dory. Of course, equipping a boat with a motor well is more difficult than strengthening a transom for a motor (see below), but on the other hand, the motor and propeller will be better protected from damage, and it will be possible to repair the motor on the water without fear of drowning a part or tool.

ABC truths

To make a boat right, you need to choose a technically competent, suitable for the given sailing conditions and available resources for its project. To choose a project, you need to know at least the very basics of ship theory, small shipbuilding, navigation and maritime practice on small ships. So let's start with theory.

Propulsion

The propulsion of a displacement vessel is determined by the Froude number Fr. Physically, it means that with an increase in Fr, the length of the bow wave of the vessel increases rapidly, see Fig.:

At the same time, most of the engine power or sail thrust is spent on maintaining it. The motor switches to the “fuel-burning” mode, at the same time quickly burning its resource, and the sail, as a rule, is not able to pull the vessel up to Fr>0.3. Hence the important conclusion: do not try to increase the speed of the boat by putting too powerful a motor on it. You will only make swimming more dangerous and you will burn money for fuel in vain. If the recommended motor power is not indicated in the boat project, it can be determined from the table. on the trail. rice.

Movement at a value of Fr that is too large for a given hull is also dangerous: the boat may seem to be hanging on the crests of neighboring waves, or it will tend to move back from the bow wave and dig its stern into the water. If, frightened by the wave that has risen in front of the bow, sharply release the gas, the boat will be flooded from the stern with the next wave that has come running: having formed, the waves move according to their own laws.

The consumption of energy driving the vessel for wave formation depends not only on the length, but also on the height of the waves formed. It can be reduced, firstly, by increasing the ratio of the length of the vessel to its width (the “length runs” rule), but at the same time its lateral stability and controllability decrease. Secondly, the rational construction of the hull contours: its drill along the frames (see below) should be as gentle as possible. Thirdly, with sheathing (see pos. 2 and 4 in the figure with types of boats). The ribs of the skin belts turbulize the boundary layer of water, preventing the bow wave from swelling too much. This, by the way, is one of the secrets of the excellent propulsion of the combat boats of the Viking drakkars and augers. Unfortunately, sheathing is technologically complex, prone to water leakage and therefore requires regular inspection and maintenance.

Stability

The stability of the vessel is distinguished between static (in the parking lot) and dynamic on the move. The stability of the ship is determined by the interaction of the overturning moment, the force of which is applied to the center of gravity, and the restoring moment, the force of which is applied to the center of buoyancy C - the geometric center of the submerged part of the ship.

The value of stability is determined by the elevation of the metacenter M above the center of gravity G (see Fig.). A ship with a large excess of M over G will be very stable, but also very rolly, with sharp rolling, i.e. overly persistent. With a continuous increase in the angle of heel Θ, the metacenter first "runs away" upward from the center of gravity, and then moves back. When M is below G, the overturning moment will exceed the restoring moment and the vessel will capsize. Resp. the angle Θ for decked ships is called the sunset angle. The critical list for deckless ships will be the one at which the ship scoops sideways. Then Θ is called the flood angle.

The stability rules are subject to the square-cube law. For small vessels, on the one hand, this is bad, because a small vessel turns out to be less stable than a large one of the same proportions. If a 5-meter boat goes with a critical roll, then a roll of a 20-meter schooner in the same wind will not be dangerous, and a 70-meter barge is almost invisible. When in the old days the captains of sailing ships, trying to get away from the storm, ordered "set the sails as much as the masts can withstand," they knew what they were doing. But, on the other hand, for the same reason, the dynamic stability of a more or less regular small displacement vessel will be greater than the static one. In order for a boat, stable in the parking lot, to capsize on the move, its designer will have to try very hard in the opposite sense.

Controllability

It is wrong to think that the ship turns from the rudder. The vessel turns the oncoming flow of water obliquely on its bow, and the rudder only helps it to substitute itself under it, see fig. on right. True, with all due respect to the author of the original source, an inaccuracy crept in: what is designated as the center of gravity of the CG is actually the projection of the center of rotation of the CG vessel onto the main plane (see below). This is also an important conclusion: if the boat is poorly controlled, do not sin on a too small rudder blade. Its optimal area is approx. 3% of the cross-sectional area of ​​the hull amidships, i.e. across the widest part. Check and, if it matches, then either you did something wrong, or the project was chosen unimportant.

The position of the CV is determined by the interaction of the moments of forces applied to the CV and C already horizontally. For a perfectly steerable vessel with no roll, the CG is exactly above C, which is what the designers are aiming for. Hence another important conclusion: do not get carried away with the move with a roll. Romantic, but also dangerous, because the controllability of the vessel is reduced, which exacerbates the risk of capsizing.

Sailing

Yachtsmen sometimes say: a sailing yacht is an airplane, one wing of which is in the air and the other in the water. In general, this is correct. Diagrams explaining the principles of vessel movement under oblique sail, see fig. From there it is clear why you can sail against the wind. The first thing that is important here is that the CPU and CBS are widely spaced vertically, which creates a significant heeling moment. Hence the conclusion: if the project of the boat does not provide for sailing weapons, do not put a "self-propelled gun". In extreme cases, and under perfectly favorable circumstances, an emergency sprint sail can be built from a pair of oars and a cover or clothing. For example, the motor died, it was far from the shore, it was exhausted to row, but the wind was weak and the waves were insignificant.

The interaction of sail thrust and lateral resistance of a properly designed ship also creates a moment that tends to bring it to the wind, i.e. turn your nose directly into the wind. On the one hand, this is good, because if the ship turns out to be uncontrollable, it will take a wave on its bow, which is the least dangerous. But on the other hand, if the CPU moves too far ahead of the CBS, the ship will become difficult to control or even uncontrollable: it will be brought to the wind, no matter how you turn the tiller; It's not far from here to disaster.

The matter is complicated by the fact that when the course changes relative to the wind, both the CP and the CBS shift. If the CPU is behind the CBS, the ship will begin to roll away into the wind (“want” to become a stern to it), which threatens with disaster. Hence the most important conclusion: without proper knowledge of the sea, do not experiment with sails! You run the risk of making an “overkill turn” in a light wind on still water!

In order for a vessel without a large deadrise of the bottom and lines specially designed for sailing to be able to carry sailing weapons, lifting keels are used - centerboards - placed in the centerboard wells, see fig. on right. If the project has a sail, but there are no drawings of the daggerboard - we reject, illiterate. Then, some amateurs try to adapt a flat-bottomed boat for sailing by stuffing false keels and longitudinal redans from boards on the bottom, which are incorrectly called bottom stringers (which are actually parts of a hull set). Technically, this is the same as cutting off the wings of an airplane or trying to adapt them, the tail and the jet engine to the bus.

Contours and drawings

The main dimensions and characteristics of the vessel are given in pos. 1 fig., and in pos. 2 - the main planes of its theoretical drawing. The midship plane is indicated by a special squiggle icon. Pos. 3 shows how a theoretical drawing is constructed. Cross-section by diagonals and construction of fish are used in drawings of sufficiently large vessels, performed on a small scale, to verify the coincidence of lines. On the theoretical drawings of small vessels, instead of fish, they often give drill along the frames, see below.

Already by looking at the theoretical drawing, one can estimate at what Froude numbers a given ship is capable of sailing. For example, a boat in pos. 5 - semi-planing. Next, you need to check the coincidence of the lines of the drawing:

• The distances from the DP to the waterlines of the overhead lines on the half-width projection must match the distances from the DP to the lines of the frames on the hull projection, respectively. levels from the OP. Taking into account the scale, because the projection of the hull, necessary for the construction of patterns and frame templates, is most often given on an enlarged scale (see pos. 4).
• The distances from the OP to the buttocks should be equal to the distances from the OP to the lines of frames and waterlines on the same secant plane parallel to the DP, also taking into account the scale.

Next, you should evaluate the driving performance of the vessel: using the trapezoid method, the cross-sectional areas of the underwater part are determined along the frames and segments, respectively. lengths are plotted along the vertical axis, see fig. The distance between the segments (on the same scale) is one spacing, i.e. the distance between the sections along the frames. The envelope of the segments, the so-called. combatant along the frames, should form a semi-contour of a certain streamlined body.

The construction of the drill on the frames is similar to the application of the area rule in aviation. But, firstly, in incompressible water, its action affects any speeds, and not transonic ones. Secondly, the ship's hull is only partially submerged in water and therefore excites gravitational waves in motion, and not pressure ones. Therefore, the drill on the frames should not look like a half of a drop, but of an animated body, like an artillery shell. The flatter the drill turns out to be along the frames, the more popular the ship will be, and the wide drill speaks of its good controllability. The “tail” at the back indicates the ability to walk on significant Froude numbers, and the “beak” at the front indicates good germination on the wave, but at the same time a tendency to yaw.

Note: in addition to the frames, according to the theoretical drawing, a true bypass of the inclined transom is built, see Fig.:

materials

Wood and plywood

The basic structural materials for a boat require some pre-treatment. In order for a wooden boat to last as long as possible, wood materials must first be abundantly impregnated with a water-soluble antiseptic (biocide) for wood. Not oil, not in the air it will be!

Plywood, incl. waterproof, impregnated in several steps with intermediate drying to avoid delamination. In the latter, only the glue is waterproof, and the veneer is wood as it is. Further, in order to fix the biocide and reduce the swelling of the wood, the material is impregnated in the same way 2-3 times with a water-polymer emulsion. Unless otherwise specified in the project, the thickness of plywood for the sides of a boat up to 4 m long should be taken from 4 mm, for the bottom from 6 mm and for the transom from 12 mm; boards, depending on the species and quality of the wood, three to four times more. The method of correct gluing of wooden parts and the permissible bending radii of the boards are given in fig. above. They are different from construction!

Sheets of plywood larger than 1550 mm are difficult to find, so they are pre-glued into strips of the desired length with a mustache joint, see fig. It is impossible to learn how to accurately and accurately cut plywood from descriptions, so practice on scraps. One can only advise to plan the mustache with a rough planer, and finish it with a grinder or a flat bar wrapped in sandpaper. Glue the sheets with epoxy glue. The quality of the hook is checked next. way:

• Cut a strip approx. 10 cm. This is almost always possible, because curvilinear details will be cut out.
• The strip is brought into a ring and pulled together until the plywood bursts.
• If the joint is of high quality, the plywood should crack anywhere but it.

Type-setting boat hulls are assembled on red-copper nails (holes need to be drilled under them), galvanized or conical screws. Red-copper nails are bitten and riveted in washers; galvanized bend. Holes are drilled under the screws; their dimensions, methods of working with nails and tables of fasteners, see fig.

Note: Recently, quite a few amateurs have been assembling boats on furniture confirmatory screws, using the same technological methods as when assembling cabinet furniture - cabinets, kitchenettes, etc. So far, these boats are floating, but not for long in order to judge their reliability for a long time.

fiberglass

Fiberglass fabric glued with epoxy glue is widely used in small shipbuilding. But there are a lot of complaints about her: they say, she didn’t swim until the fall - it flowed. The reason is the paraffin that is coated on the fiberglass before it is spun and woven. Paraffin from fiberglass is removed by boiling in water. Do not burn, the fabric will become brittle! The fiberglass is boiled in a clean container for at least half an hour, then the container with the contents is allowed to cool completely, the paraffin crust is removed from the surface of the water, and only then the fiberglass is removed.

Techniques for working with fiberglass on fiberglass and wood are shown in fig. Gluing parts of a set of extruded polystyrene foam XPS is an effective way to increase the rigidity of a wooden hull, slightly increasing its weight, and assembling a plywood boat by sewing on epoxy glue is technologically simple and gives a completely reliable vessel. Staples are made of copper wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm; the pitch of the pairs of holes for them is 40-60 mm. Looking ahead, the technology for sewing boats from plywood on epoxy is as follows:

1. Cut out parts without allowance;
2. The edges are planed to form a wedge-shaped profile joint with a base width of 1.5-2 mm;
3. If the bottom is keeled, its parts are stapled together, the workpiece is placed on the keel blocks (see below) and the sides are sewn on. The flat bottom is immediately placed on the tragus, the sides are sewn on;
4. Expose the body along the contours (also see below) and fill the seams with glue from the inside;
5. After the glue has hardened, the seams are also sealed from the inside with 3 layers of fiberglass (see the figure above). It is not necessary to remove the staples: firstly, the seam with them will be stronger, and secondly, the puttied holes from the staples are a potential source of leakage;
6. When the last sizing hardens, the transoms (transom) are glued in the same way;
7. The body is removed from the keel blocks (tragus), the brackets are bitten flush from the outside and the seams are pasted over with 3 layers of fiberglass;
8. Frames, a centerboard well, cans (seats), a breshtuk (see below), a gunwale, a fender, etc., are glued into the body, which is necessary for the project;
9. Produce refurbishment and finishing.

How to make a boat

We sew

In the designs of the boats of the Kartop Dings and the Scythians, patterns of their details are often given. In this case, the boat is assembled by sewing (stitching) on ​​keel blocks or tragus, see fig. The dry-sewn case is exposed along the contours using templates-patterns and temporary mounting struts. The seams of the sheet seams, as the most durable, are located closer to the nose, as the most loaded and prone to damage.

We are building

The construction of a sharp-chine boat of a larger capacity than a stitched boat with single curvature contours begins with the manufacture of a stem (see below) and the assembly of frame frames. The frames of embroidered boats are often simply cut out of plywood (there are only 2-3 of them), but in this case it is so uneconomical - too much rather expensive material will go to waste. The frames are assembled on the plaza, i.e. on a flat plane, on which the projections of the theoretical drawing are transferred on a scale of 1: 1. If the contours of the boat are simple, and there is not enough space, only the projection of the hull can be transferred to the plaza. Methods for assembling frame frames, as strength, complexity and weight increase, are given in fig. Grooves for the keel and stringers are selected in advance.

Next, the frame frames are placed on the frame (pos. and on the next figure), set vertically, by contours, the keel bar, stem (see below), fender bar and stringers are attached. After that, the set of the body is reduced with an even bar (pos. b). The purpose of the malkovka, firstly, is to create cuts in the keel beam, along which it will be planed to a given deadrise; secondly, to check whether a section of double curvature has been tucked somewhere, and resp. trim the bottom edges of the floor timbers. Then sheathing is applied, starting from the keel (below in the figure). After that, the body is removed from the frame, completed and equipped.

Note: some amateurs, after malkovka, hack against the rules of shipbuilding, removing the cutting of the skin from the muted set onto sheets of packaging cardboard. Then you don’t need to suffer with geometry according to a theoretical drawing, but the boats are nothing, they float.

Nose

The forteven is the most loaded and responsible part of the hull set. One of the immutable rules of safe navigation says: if the danger cannot be avoided, it must be taken on the bow. Therefore, the manufacture of the stem of the boat should be taken with all responsibility.

Boat stem designs are given in fig. Waterstop plugs made of hard, non-rotting wood prevent water from seeping into the hull. In terms of reliability, all these designs are approximately the same. A stem with a false nose is used in boats with a narrow stem.

On waves and when hitting obstacles, the stem experiences large dynamic loads, tending to spread the body, so it is reinforced with an insert-breshtuk. Amateur shipbuilders often neglect it or do not even know what it is; this is one of the significant reasons that home-made boats serve much less than the terms stated in the projects.

Stern

Another rather important part of the set, especially for a boat designed for a motor, is the transom. Transom design for motor up to 10-12 hp given in fig. on right. Total, with reinforcement, transom thickness - from 40 mm. Possibly more: some outboard motor mounting clamps do not converge less than 50-60mm.

Unsinkability

A radical means of avoiding the dire consequences of accidents on the water is an unsinkable boat. It is quite simple to make a deckless vessel with a displacement of up to 0.5 tons unsinkable: foam blocks are glued under the banks and along the sides from the inside; then, in the bow and in the stern, you can fence off respectively. fore peak and after peak and fill them with foam. The volume of unsinkable blocks in a cube. m is calculated by the formula V=1.2W(1+ρ), where W is the displacement in tons, 1 is the density of fresh water, ρ is the mass density of the foam. For example, if ρ=0.08 tf/cub. m, then for a boat with a displacement of 0.25 tons, 0.324 cubic meters will be needed. m or 324 cubic meters. dm foam. It seems to be a lot, but in a dinghy boat 3 m long, such an amount is placed without a noticeable deterioration in habitability.

Supply

The minimum set of mandatory equipment for a recreational and fishing boat consists of oars, life jackets according to human capacity, an anchor on a chain or cable, a mooring end and, in case of navigation in the dark, a white bow or top (on the mast) navigation light all-round visibility. The latter is often neglected, which is inexcusable in our time: there are now on sale autonomous LED lamps the size of a baby's fist with a built-in solar battery and battery. Anchor deserves special attention from this set.

Anchor

Joseph Conrad called the anchors "honest pieces of iron", and no wonder: the anchor may be the last chance to save the ship and the people on it. Small vessels are most often equipped with cat anchors, but this is far from the best option. First, cats often get stuck on rocks. There are cat anchors on sale with paws that lean back with a sharp jerk, but they are unreliable: the vessel can spontaneously anchor just when you need to hold on tightly. Secondly, the cat, like the classic Admiralty anchor, becomes dangerous in shallow water: the ship can sit down on the bottom of the anchor leg sticking up.

For small vessels, Hall, Matrosov and lightweight Trident anchors of increased holding power are also produced. They are quite expensive, but you can’t make them yourself, you need cast parts. You can make Kurbatov’s welded anchor on your own (see fig.), it is suitable for boats up to 5 m long. pig in 2-3 kg.

Suddenly, Kurbatov's anchor gets stuck in the stones, the ingot must be raised before it is released. The anchor, stuck completely, is released by a strong sharp jerk on the cable. In this case, parts 4 and 8 may be damaged, but in most cases they can be corrected right there with a hammer and pliers.

About anchoring

In the butt of the anchor, it is necessary to thread an eye during manufacture - a steel ring freely dangling in it. An eyelet is also supplied with a gum-tack - the attachment point of the anchor cable / chain to the ship's hull. Eyelets greatly reduce the wear of the cable / chain and the likelihood of their sudden break.

Zhvaka-tack is attached outside to the stem. You need to fasten the gum-tack lower, above the waterline itself. In this case, the boat at anchor will be better to play on the wave, not to burrow its nose into the water on waves, and the likelihood of the anchor getting stuck is much reduced.

Project examples

There are enough good projects of cart boats, dinghys and Scythians in RuNet and in general on the Internet. Therefore, we will dwell on the projects of boats more spacious.

Scythian

The appearance, data and design of the Scythian boat developed by D. A. Kurbatov, suitable for transportation on the upper trunk of a car, are given in fig. Its distinctive feature is extreme cheapness: the main material is boards, and on the bottom there is a small size, i.e. monkeys. If you choose the right boards for the bottom (highlighted in red in the next figure), then the plank bottom will be quite reliable. Moreover, today the seams between the boards can be caulked with a construction deformation cord (used to seal cracks in concrete) and silicone sealant. Of course, the bottom of this boat can also be made of plywood, then its weight will decrease to 70-80 kg.

On the trail. rice. drawings of the details of this boat are given and a method of assembling it is shown, also very economical: on a simplified slipway according to templates. Under the motor, the transom is reinforced, as described above.

Further on fig. the sailing armament of this boat and drawings of oars for it are shown. The sail is rake (emphasis on “o”), you can learn how to handle it in half an hour or an hour, without knowing the theory at all. But - do not put this sail into the wind fresh and stronger! The CPU of a rake sail is significantly higher, it rolls the boat more, and it is a punt!

As for the oars, it is better to make them exactly according to the drawing. Scythian boats do not oar very easily, therefore, in order to save the rower's muscular efforts, the configuration of the oars and the profile of their blades are of great importance.

About iron bottom

Scythian boats are sometimes made with a galvanized iron bottom. Such a boat, firstly, with plywood sides, weighs only approx. 50 kg or less, i.e. it can be turned as you like alone. Secondly, a boat with a steel bottom turns out to be much more durable in reservoirs with an acidic reaction of water, which are more than enough in the Russian Federation: ions of even very weak acids spoil glue and protective coatings. There is only one minus for home-made boats with a steel bottom: it is useless to present them for examination for the purpose of registration, and they will not look.

Dory

The same author also developed a project for a plywood dory sailing boat, see fig; according to the table of plasma ordinates, the skin is cut, but see above. In shallow sea waters with a short steep "evil" wave (Azov, the north of the Caspian Sea, the Marquis puddle in the Baltic), this boat proved to be better than a sea boat or an Azov longboat.

Below in fig. a structural drawing of the boat is given, the method of its construction on the slipway, the design of the stem and the method of inserting the longitudinal parts of the set are shown. Wood must be of high quality, without knots and defects, because. the wooden parts of the set are prestressed during assembly.

On the trail. Fig. drawings of the sailing armament of the dory are given. Since the dory can sail in fairly strong winds, it is planned to take one reef on the sail. Follow the indicated dimensions exactly: dory boats are very critical to the relative position of the CPU and CLS!

Learn how to build a boat with your own hands. If you like leisurely and reliable boats () and like to spend a lot of time on the water, I suggest you build a displacement tourist boat Crab. If you cannot build this boat with your own hands, then contact any master boatman. In construction, the boat is not complicated and does not require scarce materials, so it will not be difficult for the master to assemble this boat from the material that he has at hand. Here it is important to maintain the contours of the hull, since they are close to the optimal speeds of 8-12 km / h.

Therefore, it is not worth putting engines more powerful than 20 hp. Otherwise, the boat will go into a very disadvantageous mode in terms of fuel consumption. The lower limit of engine power is 3-4.5 hp. After it, the boat has poor handling and a strong loss of speed during a strong headwind. Therefore, a good propeller stop is needed, which is obtained at a low speed of rotation from 1000 to 1500 rpm, and a large propeller diameter. The boat is designed with a low side and a cabin not large in volume. To reduce the wave resistance of the hull, a relatively narrow (L/B = 3.3) coefficient of longitudinal completeness ϕ = 6.65 was chosen. The wheelhouse has a small height, approximately 1.6 m, and is located in the stern of the boat, it is open from the stern and the control post is located in it. And if the driver opens the hatch located above his seat, he will be able to drive while standing on the bench.

It is not recommended to increase the cutting height, this will lead to a loss of speed and poor controllability of the boat. In the wheelhouse, in a rather free place, there is a galley with a gas stove, there is also a sink for washing dishes. The galley closes with a lid and becomes a seat for two people. The length of the cockpit with the wheelhouse is approximately 2 meters, so that 6 people can comfortably accommodate. But if you decide to go on a long trip, I advise you to take no more than 4 people on board. Since there is not a lot of space in the cabin of the boat, then two will have to sleep in the cockpit on air mattresses. The cabin has a wardrobe, a bar closet, berths with small lockers and a shelf in the forepeak. The general view drawing shows the UD2-M1 engine with a power of 8 hp. Air-cooled, paired with a reverse gear from the SM-557L engine. It is desirable to install these engines openly, or to provide air flow if a hood is installed.

A jet of hot air can be directed to the wheelhouse and cabin with the help of a screen, you get quite efficient heating in wet weather. Air-cooled engines are much easier to maintain and more economical. With a UD2-M1 engine and a 1:1.64 gearbox, this boat has a speed of 12 km/h and consumes only 0.28 l/km of fuel. The hull of the boat can be built in many ways. In the drawing you can see laminated frames, they are glued according to the templates from the rails. The hull plating can be carried out directly along these frames. Which are installed on the slipway as patterns. You can also use hinged frames. Parts of these frames are sawn out of boards and interconnected with overlays of the same thickness.

If the frames are made of oak or ash, make blanks with a thickness of 22 - 24 mm, if made of pine, then the thickness is 28-30 mm. When marking, place the details so that the wood has a minimum overstressing of the fibers. Otherwise, the frames may crack during grounding or in other emergency situations. It is better to make hinged frames in three layers, replace the lining by gluing strips of waterproof plywood 4-5 mm thick on both sides of the frame. The distance between the frames is 600 mm.

How to build a boat with your own hands - hull plating options.

When sheathing the hull, edge to edge of the board is connected by gluing along the edges, this gives the boat hull good rigidity without additional frames. To do this, you need spruce or pine boards 20 mm thick and 120 - 150 mm wide in the middle part of the length of the boat's hull. The plating is attached to the keel, frames and stem with 5x45 screws, and the edges of the plating must be riveted with nails - preferably copper rivets with a diameter of 3.5 - 4 mm. Pre-drill smaller holes for the nails. Rivet the inside ends of the nails onto the washers.

Body with plank upholstery smooth. With this method of sheathing the hull of the boat, adjacent belts have no connection with each other, only through the frames. The thickness of the skin is 20 mm and the spacing is 600 mm, the case with this option is quite strong, but it may appear to leak along the poses. You can use an additional element triangular rail - a flipper, which is fixed with frequent metal brackets in the grooves of the skin, which are separated from the outside. The best option is to put one bent frame between the hinged frames indicated in the drawing. Or make all frames bent. Then the spacing will become 300 mm, the thickness of the skin can be 15 - 17 mm. Blanks for bent frames can be cut from oak, ash slats with a section of 16x35 or spruce slats with a section of 18x35. First they need to be steamed out and then put into the case, when all the skin is assembled on temporary patterns. With bent frames, the weight of the boat will be less. Now briefly how to make the most important individual boat hulls. To make a keel, you can use any of the methods shown in the figure.

The keel consists of a bar placed on the edge or the keel itself 40 mm thick and a resenkel - which is attached to the upper edge of its board, which is bent into a layer, or two rails on the sides. Here the choice depends on your capabilities, but keep in mind that with the option with slats it is possible to flow along the poses between the slats and the keel, so you need a tight fit and more fasteners and waterproof glue will not be superfluous at all. The stem is assembled from two parts for their manufacture, it is necessary to draw in advance the outline of the stem in full size according to the theoretical drawing, then transfer the dimensions of all parts to the plaza according to the distorted design. According to this markup, the parts are pre-treated, then tightly adjusted to each other. The most difficult thing is to choose a tongue and groove - to make a recess from the boards at the bottom of the stem.

This must be done on the slipway. To mark the frame frames, you need to draw a full-size plaz drawing, then mark the thickness of the outer skin inside the bypass. Do this with a flexible rail or compass. Rivet floors, linings and beam brackets with copper nails - rivets with a diameter of 4-5 mm, then put washers under the ends and rivet, you can also use galvanized steel bolts. Each part must be fastened with at least three rivets. The top-timbers of all frames are connected by a temporary crossbar - a bar at a height of 800 mm from the OL. It is better to sheathe the transom into a tongue and assemble it on the plaza along with the harness.

Assemble the hull when the keel is at the bottom, install on the slipway according to the theoretical drawing a bookmark, a stem, a transom and a keel with a resenkeel. Check the position of the frame frames and attach to the resenkel using steel squares - shorty or two M6 bolts passing them vertically through the floors. Place the squares in the joints of the fender with frames. The ends of idle beams are cut into the fender. Place beams when assembling frame frames on 1, 2, 3 frames. Mount the cabin when you finish installing the carling 8, mount the bulkhead on the 5 frame and the deck flooring, which is assembled from 15 mm boards, do not forget to caulk afterwards.

"Designer" in the bow of the cabin is an inclined coaming, it can be assembled from 17 mm boards or from plywood 8-12 mm thick. Also set a time frame at frame 4, this will give a curve to the side coaming. Mark the felling beams in the same way as you marked the hull beams. And cut the ends into a shelf (dovetail). Sheathe the roof of the cabin with plywood 6 mm thick or clapboard 12 m thick. Be sure to then cover the roof of the cabin with canvas (on liquid putty) and secure it with beads and glazing beads.

Theoretical drawing of the boat Crab

Table of ordinates of the theoretical drawing of the displacement boat Crab that you can assemble with your own hands, mm (according to the outer skin)

General view of the tourist boat: 1 - hinged steering wheel; 2 - aft mooring bollard; 3- handrail; 4- onboard distinctive light of the boat; 5- boat headlight; 6- top fire; 7- casing for the sliding hatch; 8- forluk; 9 - foot rails; 10-biteng; 11 - bale bar; 12 hatches above the driver's seat; 13- boat engine; 14- fodder locker.

The layout of the boat 1 - afterpeak; 2- boat engine; 3 - fuel tank; 4 - control cabin; 5 - sliding hatch; 6- casing for the hatch cover; 7 - forluk; 8 - shelf; 9 - forepeak: 10 - shelf; 11 - portable bucket; 12 - sewing the sides with slats, internal: 13 - bunk - sofa; 14 - bureau-cabinet; 15 - seat for the driver; 16 - fuel tank; 17 - seat cover - locker; 18 - folding chair: 19 sink for washing dishes: 20 - gas stove; 21 - double folding door; 22- wardrobe

Bookmark and section on frames. 1 - outer skin; 2-frame (laminated - 30 X 45: wall-mounted - 28 X 65); 3-side stringer 28X50; 4 - knee δ = 25; 5 - cockpit coaming, plywood δ = 8 or board 10-12 mm; 6 - gunwale 8X25. oak; 7-rail 12 X 25; 8 - carlings 25 X 40; 9-floor, δ = 30. 10 - bead, 25 X 30; 11 - fender 28 X 50; 12 - bead r - 22; 13 - deckhouse coaming, plywood δ = 8 or a board with a thickness of 10 - 12, 14 - shelf 22x50 15 - shelf 20X32; 16-shoulder, g-12; 11 - wheelhouse roof, plywood δ = 6; 18-beams 22X32; 19-carling cutting 25 X 40; 20 - strip 2X20. brass or light alloy; 21 - bar 8X60. oak; 22 - bulkhead, plywood δ = 6 or lining 12-15; 23 - door pillar 20 X 40. floorboard support bar. 28X35; 25 - bar 12X80; 26 - rail 30X30: 27 - flooring of beds, board 12 mm or plywood δ = 6; 28 - interior lining of the cabin, rail 8 X 45; 29 - layout 8X80; 30 - cabin roof, plywood δ = 6; 31 - beam 22X 35; 32-deck flooring, board 15-17 or plywood δ = 8; 33 - beam 25 X 60; 34 - rail 30X30; 35 - stem; 36 - screws M6 X 150; 37 - button; 38 - rezenkil 35 X 140; - 40X80; 40 - aft deadwood: dial on bars 140 mm thick: 41 - rudder thrust, steel δ = 3-4; 42 - deadwood overlay, 140 X 140; 43 - starnica, δ = 40; 44 - transom strapping, 28 X 65; 45 - transom, δ = 20-22.

Keel assembly options: a - a keel variant with a board made of board; b - keel version with side rails. 1- keel of the boat; 2 - resenkil; 3 - mounting bolt M6 with a pitch of 200-250: 4 - rail size 40 X 30; 5 - screw 5 X 80 with pitch pitch 120.

The fiberglass boat has gained popularity for its durability and reliability. Fiberglass has a number of significant advantages over other materials. You can assemble the ship quickly and without much cost. A do-it-yourself fiberglass boat is a budget and worthy option for fishing trips.

The plastic small size vessel is intended mainly for fishing. It can also be used for water tourism, sports activities. Operating conditions of the boat on the water: wave no more than 60 cm high, wind force - up to 4 points on a ten-point scale. A fiberglass boat is a great alternative to inflatable boats.