Preparation of parquet laying on a wooden floor. How to lay a parquet board on a concrete floor. Preparing parquet boards for laying

Among the options for substrates for parquet, wood flooring is considered one of the most economical. How to lay parquet on such a base yourself, what tools are used and how many stages the process consists of, read below.

The wooden floor is a ready-made base, so there is no need to remove it, it is easier to lay the parquet directly on it

Wood, and especially as a base for parquet or parquet board, is a capricious material that requires a special approach. In addition, before making a decision, you need to assess his condition.

What is the construction of a parquet floor? First of all, it is a subfloor, a base - in this case made of wood, glue, parquet strips, putty and varnish in several layers. The quality of the finished parquet will largely depend on the quality of the rough parquet. That is why you should analyze the wooden under the floor for:

strength (it must be made of a grooved board, firmly fixed on the logs, additionally impregnated with antiseptic agents);
perfect evenness.

Do not be lazy - walk around, jump, knock, listen to the old wooden floor so that its possible defects come out before installing the parquet, and not in the future

A wooden floor suitable for the role of a base should not creak, have height differences, shift or sag under weight during operation. Only if all these requirements are met, even the old wooden floor can be considered as one of the main layers of the "parquet pie".

Defects in the surface of a wooden floor, as well as a violation of its functionality cannot be considered reasons for a categorical rejection of the idea of installing parquet on the surface with your own hands. In this case, the installation of a new wooden floor will be possible, but only after the repair of the coating with the elimination of the main problems.

How is parquet laid on a wooden base?

To lay parquet on a wooden floor, it is necessary to observe the temperature and humidity conditions in the room. The optimum temperature for laying natural wood is from +18 to +25 degrees with an air humidity of up to 60%.

An important point is the preparation of the rough base. An old wooden floor must be firmly anchored to the base to prevent squeaking and gaps and drops. Dies requiring replacement or repair are removed from the coating web, installing new ones or correcting defects.

Coarse grinding of the base surface using special parquet grinding technique will help to achieve a perfectly flat surface. Also, filling with the removal of the remaining gaps and joints will allow to achieve the required level of preparation of the base. The final part of the preparation is re-grinding the surface using special equipment.

Small set of electrical grinding equipment

If the rough wooden floor is so uneven that it is not possible to completely solve the problem by sanding and filling, it makes sense to additionally use plywood sheets up to 12 mm thick for leveling. They are fastened with oxidized or galvanized self-tapping screws, pushing the caps down to the grinding stage by at least 3 mm. A compensation gap of 5 mm is imperatively left between the layers.

The finished plywood layer is also sanded with a special technique, leveling the joints. After treatment, the intermediate floor is cleaned, treated with soil mixtures to improve adhesion properties and protect against pests.

Floating parquet installation method: features

High-quality laying of parquet on a wooden floor can be done in two ways. Let's consider the first one - floating. So that during operation the boards do not change the geometry and dimensions under the influence of temperature changes and humidity, a small expansion gap is left between them and the wall - up to 15 mm.

If a heating system is used, then at the time of installation it must be turned off for at least 6 hours.

Begin laying the boards from the wall opposite the door. The finished wooden base is covered with a special substrate based on polyethylene foam, which plays the role of a waterproofing layer. Its thickness must be at least 3 mm.

Floating way of laying parquet, without the use of glue

Plastic restraints are placed around the perimeter of vertical structures every 5 cm. The protruding part of the groove at the dies of the first row is removed. The first plank is assembled, carefully leveled, and then attached to the next one using the tongue-and-groove locking system. The rest of the boards are attached according to the same principle.

It will be correct to lay the parquet from the joint of the end edges, followed by joining along the long side. The dies in the last row are adjusted in size so that the width is at least 5 cm.

Strengthening the fastening will allow the use of a small hammer or block to knock the planks. After the end of the installation, the wedges are removed to restrict and proceed to the installation of the plinth at the place of their installation.

Glue method of fastening parquet to a wooden floor: features

Installing a parquet floor on a prepared wooden base using glue is similar to the floating installation procedure. The difference is that a thick adhesive composition is immediately applied to the base made of wood, more often on a polyurethane base. In this case, water-dispersion adhesive mixtures are not suitable, as they will negatively affect the condition of the subfloor.

At the dies of the first row, the protruding edge is also cut off, and boundary wedges are installed around the perimeter in the room, in place of which plinths will be installed over time.

Option for laying the parquet floor with glue

It is more convenient to use a notched trowel to apply the adhesive. The width of the strip should be slightly larger than the width of the parquet strip. The first row is neatly laid on the base, pressing tightly and fixing with nails without hats to increase the strength.

The next row of dies is also placed on the strip of glue, but this time with an offset. After the end of the work, the limiting wedges are taken out, in their place, plinths are installed in the color.

In conclusion, we note that laying parquet on old wooden floors is really possible, moreover, it is justified in every sense. The main thing is to make sure of the quality of the floor and, if necessary, carry out work on its repair and restoration. It is impossible to mount parquet on a loose and uneven base - it is a senseless waste of energy, time and money. Such a coating will not meet expectations and will become unusable in the very first months after the start of operation.

If the old floor was well looked after, and it has been preserved almost in its original form, it will take a minimum of time to prepare it for parquet

Installing parquet on a rough wood floor is probably the most economical and fastest way to install parquet.

Firstly, you do not need effort, money and time to install a screed for laying parquet on a screed.
Secondly, it does not take time and specialists to install the logs, as in the case of laying parquet on the logs. All that is needed is a high-quality sub-floor made of planks. As always before laying parquet, you cannot do without thorough preparation of the base.

Preparing a wooden sub-floor for laying parquet

The sub-floor as a base for laying the parquet must be checked and prepared before starting the installation.
The rough plank floor should be laid on well-dried logs soaked in an antiseptic.
Rough boards must be grooved;
The plank floor should be flat. A slope of two running meters, should not exceed 2 mm;
The floor should not creak;
The floor should not have drops;
The floorboards must be firmly fixed and not move when walking on it.

Only such a subfloor made of planks can serve as a basis for laying parquet.

Preparing a subfloor from planks for laying parquet

A subfloor made of boards that meets the conditions specified above must be cleaned and covered with an antiseptic.
Moisture-resistant plywood is laid on the boards covered with glue. Plywood is fixed with self-tapping screws (screws). The screws are fastened every 20-25 cm. The heads of the self-tapping screws should be sunk into the plywood by 2-3 mm.
Expansion joints of 1.5-2 mm should be left between the plywood sheets.
The plywood floor is sanded with grinding machines to eliminate the differences and defects in the plywood.
After cleaning, you can start laying the parquet according to the pre-selected pattern.

Preparing the room for laying parquet

In the room in which the parquet is laid, all repair and construction work must be completed.

Interior doors must be installed. Moreover, the installation of doors should be carried out taking into account the raising of the floor by the thickness of the parquet to be laid. If you are planning custom-made solid wood doors, be sure to tell the measurer about the planned level of the finished floor.

The climatic conditions in the room must fully comply with the required conditions, namely:

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The room temperature should be + 18 ÷ + 24 ° C;
Air humidity (relative) 40-60 °;
The humidity of the walls and sub-floor (absolute) should be no more than 6%.

Laying parquet on a sub-floor made of planks is carried out in a standard way with consistent observance of all stages of installation from marking to finishing with varnish.

That's all. The installation of the parquet on the rough wood floor is complete. Walk on a flat and beautiful floor.

Normative references

SNiP 3.04.01-87;
SNiP 2.03.13-88

Photo album Laying parquet on a wooden floor

In recent years, parquet board has become a very popular coating, as it is one of the most aesthetic materials for floor decoration. It is suitable for flooring in almost any room of a house or apartment, with the exception of the bathroom (due to high humidity). Nevertheless, with the purchase of a high-quality floor covering, its correct installation and adherence to the recommendations for use, even in a humid room, a parquet board can serve for a long time.

In any case, it is not enough to purchase a high-quality coating - its durability depends on proper styling. Call the master? - it can be expensive, comparable to the cost of the material. Maybe you should try to do this work yourself? Why not, if you apply your skills and diligence. So, laying a parquet board with your own hands is a step-by-step instruction with illustrations.

What is a parquet board?

Parquet board structure

First of all, let's once again remember what is covered under the term "parquet board".

This type of coating, as an alternative, was patented back in 1941. During its development, a higher resistance to external influences was achieved, with a significant reduction in the cost of the material. The original parquet board consisted of two layers. Subsequently, with the advent of innovative technologies, it was repeatedly modernized, however, the material of its manufacture remained unchanged - natural wood. As a result, this flooring has remained in great demand for many decades. In particular, parquet board has become popular recently, when eco-style is reviving in designer fashion.

Today, as a rule, three-layer parquet boards go on sale, which first appeared on the market in 1946 and turned out to be much more practical than the original version. The company "Tarkett" began to produce this coating, which to this day supplies its products all over the world, while remaining the leader in this field of production.

The strength and durability of this flooring is due to the structural structure of the board. Each of the layers of the "pie" has a different thickness. Well, the position of the wood fibers in each of the subsequent layers have a direction perpendicular to the previous one. In the lower and upper layers, the fibers run along the board, and in the middle, respectively, across. It is this arrangement that gives the material strength and eliminates the risk of deformation.

The top layer of the parquet board is made of high quality hardwood. The layer is not only decorative - it is distinguished by excellent wear resistance, has a thickness of at least four millimeters. Since the appearance of the parquet board depends on the quality of this material, the wood for the top layer is carefully selected. The lamellas that make up the board must be free of any defects. They are selected according to the textured pattern, as well as according to the color shade. The lamellas are adjusted to each other, glued together, and then fixed to the base also with glue. Some models of parquet boards have a solid covering made of high quality natural veneer. They are also called single-strip boards.
For the manufacture of the middle layer, conifers are usually used. The workpieces have semi-vertical or vertical annual rings, which are able to evenly distribute the load and impart increased stability to the material. This layer consists of perfectly processed dies of equal width (20 ÷ 30 mm), which are laid across. The thickness of the middle layer is 7 ÷ 8 mm. On it, as a rule, locks are located - shaped grooves and spikes.
The bottom layer consists of one or two whole boards and is stabilizing. It creates a secure and stable support for the upper structure and prevents it from bending. The thickness of this layer is no more than 4 mm.

The surface of the outer layer of the finished parquet board is carefully sanded, and then covered with protective and decorative compounds, which are applied in several layers - this is a putty, then a primer, a lining and decorative varnish, which, after application, hardens under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. Thanks to the outer layer, the finished coating becomes resistant to fading and mechanical damage. This floor covering does not need additional varnishing after installation.

Parquet board prices

parquet board

Advantages and disadvantages of parquet boards

Like any other floor covering, the parquet board has its advantages and disadvantages. They are best viewed by comparing it with other popular floor coverings.

The main advantage of a parquet board, in comparison with linoleum and laminate, is its environmental friendliness, since it is made only from natural wood.
A parquet board, with a high-quality installation, is indistinguishable from a natural parquet, and a film with an image of a textured wood pattern is applied to linoleum and laminate. In the best case, the laminate can be covered with natural veneer glued to MDF.
In a parquet board, solid wood is used only for the top layer, and block parquet is made entirely of natural wood, but it also costs several times more than the first one. However, parquet board is more resistant to deformation processes than parquet, as it has the above-described structure - alternating layers with different fiber directions. Parquet is pretty moody material that requires periodic maintenance, and if everything is left "to chance", the wood can swell from high humidity or begin to dry out when there is not enough moisture. As a result, the parquet strips begin to deform - bend and warp.
Compared to the same parquet, the parquet board is much faster and more convenient to install, since it is large. In addition, the board does not require any special skills. It is enough to have a ready-made flat base for coatings and instructions for its installation.

It is not so easy to lay parquet, and therefore professional masters are engaged in its flooring, whose work is not cheap at all.

In the case when any mistakes were made when laying the parquet board, they can be easily corrected if the material was not mounted on glue. It will be much more difficult to make corrections with parquet.
Unlike parquet, parquet board comes on sale with a protective coating applied and can be used for a long time without additional processing. Parquet, after its laying, requires scraping, and then coating with a special oil or
A parquet board can imitate parquet, the strips of which are laid in rows with a shift relative to each other, as well as in the form of plank floorboards.
The parquet board perfectly imitates the plank floor. And the latter is rarely made from valuable wood, as it is too expensive. But a parquet board covered with a layer of expensive wood will cost significantly less.
The service life of a parquet board is 20-30 years, depending on the quality and timeliness of its care, as well as the accuracy and intensity of its use. In contrast to it, parquet and solid board have a longer service life, but require more careful maintenance - shuffling painting or coating with varnish or oil. However, it should be noted that the parquet board can also be sanded to renew it. And some of her models having thick enough top layer 6 mm, can be sanded 10 or even more times.

Linoleum prices

linoleum

To summarize, we can come to the conclusion that the construction of a parquet board is less whimsical to maintain than parquet, and also positively differs in its environmental friendliness from laminate and linoleum. The price of a parquet board cannot be called low, however, its installation can be done independently, while it is unlikely that it will be possible to cope with laying natural parquet on your own.

Preparing the base for flooring a parquet board

The parquet flooring can be laid on various substrates - concrete slabs, plank or plywood floors, and even on an old but solid floor tiled with ceramic tiles. The main thing is that the base is even, without protrusions and large depressions, so the surface must be carefully prepared.

The preparatory measures before laying a parquet board include several points, without which it is impossible to obtain a high-quality floor covering.

The first step is a thorough revision of the base. If cracks, depressions or protrusions are found, they must be eliminated. Cracks are widened and filled with concrete or other composite repair mortar(with a special putty). Individual indentations are also leveled with concrete, and big enough protrusions go astray. Small imperfections can be smoothed out by laying a special underlay on the floors.
In addition, the surface of the base is checked for evenness using a building level. It is permissible for irregularities to be 2 ÷ 2.5 mm per one running meter, but no more.
If the quality of the base does not fit into the permissible errors, then you will have to equip the alignment. Depending on the type of floor, you can use a screed for this (for example,), or bring the floor out to a horizontal plane with lags and then attach plywood or boards to them.

If only minor flaws in the floor are found, which nevertheless need to be leveled, this can also be done by fixing plywood sheets to the concrete base, laying them according to the principle of "brickwork", that is, at a distance. Sheets can be screwed or glued to concrete.

Laminate prices

Before laying parquet boards or plywood underneath directly on concrete, the base must be well primed in order to strengthen the surface and eliminate the appearance of dust.
If the board will be laid directly on a concrete surface, then a substrate will be laid under it.

Foamed polyethylene, thin sheets of extruded polystyrene, cork material in plates and rolls are used as this layer.

A cork sheet or slab substrate is most often glued to the base, since it not only smooths out small irregularities, but also acts as a heater.

Both roll and board materials are stacked end-to-end.

It is not recommended to use an old carpet or carpet as a backing, as well as linoleum, as this material can deform and pull the parquet boards with it. In addition, the old floor covering during its operation absorbs various odors that the new parquet board cannot hide.

You need to prepare not only materials, but also tools for performing work. The list of items required for installation includes:

- electric jigsaw, circular saw or hacksaw with a fine tooth pitch;

- rubber hammer - for tamping the rows;

- screwdriver;

- rule and building level;

- square and tape measure;

- normal and notched trowels;

- a special bracket for pulling up the boards. It can be purchased ready-made or made independently from a steel strip with a thickness of 4 ÷ 5 mm.

- a tapping block. It can also be "store" or homemade;

- spacer wedges.

Having prepared everything you need, you must once again carry out a conscientious cleaning. In particular, the surface of the floor before laying any material must be carefully. Any small pebble that accidentally remains on the floor can be great harm to the overall quality of the resulting floor.

Features of laying parquet boards

Before proceeding to the step-by-step instructions for installing flooring from a parquet board, it is worth talking a little about some of the nuances of its installation, which you also need to have information about.

The first thing to remember is that the parquet board purchased and brought to the house must be kept in the room where it will subsequently be laid. This is especially important to consider if the purchase is made in the cold season, and the temperature difference between the room and the outside is large enough. In the room where the flooring will be made, the air temperature should be at least 18 degrees, and the humidity 30 ÷ 60%. For "storing" it is better to free the board from the factory plastic packaging.

Before proceeding to the preparation of the floors and the installation of the coating, you need to draw up an approximate layout of the board in advance, taking into account its length and width. Thanks to such a drawing, it will be easier to navigate when carrying out the masonry. It becomes possible to immediately determine the most successful size of the cut boards, which are usually stacked along both edges of the row or only on one side of it.
Sections of boards presented in a row must have a length of at least 500 mm.
When drawing up a diagram, you also need to take into account the width of the boards of the last row, since they usually have to be cut. If they have a width of less than 60 mm, then the coating should be slightly shifted, that is, trim the boards of not only the last, but also the first row.
Parquet boards are laid "at a distance". This means that the boards in the second row are offset by ½ or ⅓ of their length relative to the first row.
Taking into account the features and shape of the room, the location is selected, that is, the direction of laying the boards, which determines the drawing.

- The simplest option, which is most often chosen for installation, is mounting the board along or across the room. It should be borne in mind that if the board is laid across the room, it will visually make it wider, and longitudinal installation will lengthen it. This "optical play" will help solve the problem of too long or too narrow a room.

Prices for underlay parquet

parquet underlay

- The second installation option is diagonal laying. It is more complex in execution and involves a lot of waste, which means that the cost of buying a board will be increased, since more will be required. her number. This installation method is perfect for flooring in square rooms and visually expands the space of the room. When making diagonal masonry, the end edges of the boards extreme to the wall are cut clearly, at an angle of 45 or 30 degrees. Installation of the cover starts from the middle of the room. To do this, along the diagonal of the room - from corner to corner, a line is drawn or a cord is pulled along which the first row of the coating is laid. Then, the laying continues, first in one, and then in the other direction from the central row.

Parquet board installation technology

Understanding the technological methods of flooring this coating, you need to consider all aspects.

So, the parquet board can be laid in three ways - "floating" masonry, on glue or on logs. To decide which one is suitable for a particular case, you need to find out what they are, to understand their advantages and disadvantages.

"Floating" laying of parquet boards

Such laying of the parquet board is carried out without fixing the covering to the base. Well, its solidity is achieved only by means of locking joints located at the edges of the boards.

Such an installation includes several stages, which will be discussed in detail in the instruction table below. Now we can only dwell on the positive and negative aspects of this method.

TO "Pluses" this technology can be attributed:

Simplicity and speed of masonry.
Possibility to correct mistakes made during installation.
Possibility of replacing individual boards in case of damage.
Ease of board dismantling and recyclability. For example, the coating is tired or has lost its relevance or aesthetics, so it was decided to replace it. The board can be easily removed and transferred to the dacha, where it can be put back in one of the rooms.
Resistance of the floating coating to temperature fluctuations, since the structure has the ability to expand the material.
Savings on the purchase of glue.
The floating cover can be used immediately after completion of the installation work.

"Minuses" this method of laying can be considered:

The "floating" coating is not suitable for installation in rooms with an area of more than 50 "squares".
It is not recommended for installation in rooms where high loads will be placed on the floors.
The coating is sensitive even to small irregularities, therefore it is necessary for it, however, this material will cost less than a special glue.

Adhesive method for installing parquet boards

The name of this editing method speaks for itself. That is, with this approach, the parquet board is laid on a special glue applied to the base.

And When purchasing glue, you need to make sure that it is suitable for a specific type of parquet board.

Installation according to this technique is carried out in stages. At the same time, strict adherence to all technological recommendations, tested by masters and proven to be important, is of particular importance.

The adhesive installation method is used if the board is planned to be laid on a concrete surface, which must be well primed before starting work. If the apartment is located on the first floor of a house, where there is a high probability of moisture penetrating the ceilings and walls, then it is best to soak the floors with a deep penetration waterproofing compound that will protect the surfaces from moisture and mold. The primer must be applied not only to the floors, but also to the lower part of the walls, in a strip of 100 ÷ 120 mm. If the solution will be applied in several layers, then each of them must be well dried.
The next step, along one of the walls, is laid a parquet board, between it and the wall, at a distance of about 400 ÷ 500 mm from each other, special plastic or wooden inserts are installed, which will provide an expansion gap. They allow the flooring material to expand as the room temperature rises, so that the flooring stays flat.

Further, adjusting the length of the last board in the row (how this is done - it will be shown in the table below), glue is applied to the floor surface with a spatula on an area 80 ÷ 100 mm wider than the outer line of the row. After application, the adhesive is spread over the surface with a notched trowel.
Now it's time to lay the parquet board on a layer of glue. It must be immediately precisely docked with each other using locking joints - this process is performed in the same way when laying the board in any of the three ways.

When the entire row of boards has been laid, in some cases the covering can be additionally fixed to the floor using self-tapping screws through pre-drilled holes in the grooves. The holes are drilled in steps of 300 ÷ 350 mm.
Then the glue mass is again applied to the concrete base and spread over its surface.
In the second row, the board is laid with a shift of half (or 1/3) relative to the already glued board. First, the boards are joined along the length, and then they are connected to the elements of the first row, after which they are fixed with self-tapping screws to the base.

With a loose fit of two rows to each other, that is, if there is a gap between them, a smooth block is attached to the edge of the outer row, on which it is gently tapped with a rubber hammer so as not to break the lock connection on the parquet board. Thawed tapping is carried out until the gap becomes almost invisible.
The entire floor covering is glued in this way.
Do not allow glue to get on the front side of the parquet board. If this happens, then the drops are immediately removed - for this, there should always be a clean rag at hand.
When the floor surface of the room is completely covered with parquet, the coating must be left to dry for 2 ÷ 3 days, without giving any load on it. It is necessary to think over measures to exclude even an accidental passage into the room. The drying time of the glue, as a rule, is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.
After the glue under the coating is completely dry, the seams between the boards should be treated with transparent acrylic sealant, which will reduce the risk of moisture getting from the outside under the boards.
When the sealant has completely hardened, you can remove the inserts along the walls, proceed with the installation of the baseboards, as well as the interior sill.

It must be said that the glue method of fastening is chosen if the floor surface has small irregularities that can be corrected with a layer of glue. Therefore, when installing a parquet board using a similar technology, you need to carefully press it to the floor surface.

TO positive sides adhesive mounting coatings include:

The ability to use this material in areas of any size.
Higher resistance to increased loads.
The method is suitable for installing a parquet board on top of a screed, equipped over a warm water floor.

TO disadvantages laying on glue includes:

The cost of purchasing glue.
The possibility of using the premises only when the glue is completely dry.
More complex installation of the coating.
The impossibility of correcting the mistakes made in the masonry.
Difficulty replacing damaged boards.

Installation of parquet boards on logs

Laying a parquet board can be done in two ways - fixing it directly on the joists or on laid on them plywood.

If the first installation option is chosen, then it must be borne in mind that the thickness of the parquet board must be at least 22 mm. Only in this case it is guaranteed not to bend under external load. In addition, the lags must have big enough width (about 80 ÷ 90 mm) and stacked on the base with a small step - usually 400 mm. The parquet board, which is fixed directly to the logs, is laid perpendicular to them. Plank joints in one row are made in the middle of the log width.

The second option involves fixing the lags to the base with a step of 500 ÷ 600 mm, since plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 20 mm are laid on them before laying the board.

Both one and the other installation option is convenient if the floors need to be insulated or leveled by placing the lags in a horizontal plane along the level.

The logs selected for the flooring of the parquet board must be well and properly dried. There should be no deformation of the timber or board, otherwise the finished floor may begin to creak over time.

Parquet glue prices

parquet glue

Depending on how much it is planned to raise the clean floor above the base, the logs can be fixed directly to the base, or raised above it and leveled using special racks or studs.

If the floors along the logs are settled in a private house or in an apartment located on the first floor of a high-rise building, then a concrete base is required waterproof... This can be done using special coating solutions, impregnations, dense plastic film or roofing material.

On top of the waterproofing lags are fixed, between which an insulating material is laid, which is tightened with a dust-proof film. It is especially important to take this into account if mineral wool is used as a heater.

Then, sheets of plywood are fixed along the logs using self-tapping screws, between which an expansion gap of 2.5 ÷ 3 mm should be provided. Mounting screws are screwed into the logs through the plywood covering with a step of 150 ÷ 180 mm. The edge of each plywood sheet should be in the middle of the log.

Installation of parquet boards using "floating" technology - step by step instructions

Due to the fact that the most popular way of laying a parquet board is its "floating" version, it will be considered in the table below - from the beginning of the work to its final.

Illustration	Brief description of the performed operation
	So, the first step is to lay a waterproofing material on a leveled and primed base. In the case under consideration, a polyethylene film has been selected for this purpose. The illustration clearly shows that the waterproofing is installed not only on the horizontal floor surface, but also on the walls - it is raised by about 100 mm. It is not necessary to fix the waterproofing on the walls, however, if a material of small thickness is chosen, which will fall to the floor and interfere with work, then it can be temporarily fixed on the wall with masking tape. But, nevertheless, it would be better to choose a dense film - this will reduce the time for carrying out the work that will be required for gluing it.
	In the next step, a substrate is laid on the waterproofing material. In this case, dense foamed polyethylene is chosen, but it may well be replaced by cork roll or plate material. First, only one sheet of roll-type substrate is laid along the wall, from which the installation of the parquet board will begin, since if you cover the room completely, it will interfere with the work, moving one way or the other. Usually, the flooring begins to be laid from the left corner of the room, no matter how it is planned to be installed - along or across the room.
	After that, a previously drawn up scheme for laying the material and prepared spacer wedges are taken, which must be temporarily installed between the wall and the parquet board. The thickness of the spacer wedges should be 10 ÷ 15 mm.
	The next step is to lay the first parquet board. Temporarily it is pressed against the walls to determine the evenness of its position.
	Now it's time to create an expansion gap between the wall and the flooring material. It is created using spacer wedges installed on all sides of the board, adjacent to the walls. The board is pressed tightly against these wedges. The spacing between the wedges on the long side of the board should be about 500 mm.
	Next, the second board of the first row is being laid. It is fastened to the first by means of a docking lock.
	Docking locks from different manufacturers may differ slightly, but usually, when connected, they seem to click together.
	It is important that the second and subsequent boards fit exactly the width of the previous board. If one of them is shifted to the outside, the next row will not be able to dock with the previous one. In this illustration, you can clearly see how the connection of two boards along the length of the row should look like.
	Having laid out the first row almost completely, except for the last board, which, as a rule, has to be cut, use a tape measure or a metal ruler to measure the distance from the wall to the end of the laid board. In this case, I take into account the fact that it is necessary to leave a compensation gap of 10 ÷ 15 mm, which was mentioned above. Therefore, in order to accidentally avoid mistakes when measuring, it is best to attach a spacer wedge to the wall and measure the distance from it.
	The next step, a whole board is applied to the end of the first row, then it is turned face down and the length of the desired segment is laid on its seamy side. Further, according to the mark along the building corner, a line is drawn perpendicular to the edges, along which a cut is made using a circular saw or an electric jigsaw.
	The prepared segment joins with the rest of the boards of the first row, while spacer wedges are also installed along the wall.
	The second part of the board, from which a piece was cut to complete the first row, very often starts the second row (if the length of this segment allows). It connects to the first row of lock along the long side of the board.
	Next, the second board of the second row is laid. The complexity of its installation lies in the fact that it needs to be fastened with locks to the previous and adjacent board. Some joints are designed for joining the boards first along the length of the row, and then fastening the second row to the first. Others, as shown in the illustration, are first joined to the first row of boards and then joined to the previous board. The entire floor covering is laid in the same way. However, there are probably places in any room that complicate the work.
	So that the board neatly lies near the front door, and the sill is in its opening, it is washed down to the wall in the lower part of the door frame, as shown in the photo. However, the board does not fit into place yet, as it can be damaged by further actions.
	The next step is to mark the location of the sill, which will press the edges of the boards in the doorway. To do this, it is necessary to lay props along the width of the opening, on which the threshold will then be fixed. Along it, from the side of the parquet to be laid, you need to draw a sharp knife in order to cut off a strip of backing material, which will interfere with the tight fit of the sub-strip to the base.
	Further, through the holes for fastening provided in the support, marks are made using a marker or pencil. Then the props are removed, and holes are drilled according to the marking.
	Plastic plugs are inserted into the holes. Then the props are installed in place, which is fixed with self-tapping screws, screwed through the holes into the plug-plugs located in the base.
	Further, you can prepare a place for mounting the board, which will go into the groove cut in the door frame. Since the board, due to its installation in the gap, it will be impossible to lift and fasten it with a lock, as it happened during the installation of the rest of the boards, part of the lock is removed from the already laid board with the help of a chisel. This process will have to be done not only along the length of the board, but also along its width.
	Then, on the cut sections of the boards, a stripe is applied to joiner's or other glue intended for fastening wooden parts.
	Now the board is slipped into the gap under the door frame and advanced to the already laid cover. The edges of the board are pressed tightly against the cut off key lines with glue applied to them.
	If necessary, the board to be glued can be knocked out through the bar provided for this, using a hammer, since there should be no gap in the connection of the board with the main covering. Similar operations will need to be performed on the other side of the doorway.
	The next step is to lay the rest of the boards, leaving one edge in the doorway. They fit with the edge on the props fixed with self-tapping screws. After that, the edges of the boards are pressed from above with a threshold, which is screwed together with the boards to the sub-rail. Thus, the edges of the boards will be fixed to the base and also sandwiched between the two metal strips of the threshold.
	If you plan to continue laying the parquet board in the next room, then instead of a metal sill, you can install a plastic docking profile. For this, its lower part is fixed to the base, and after laying the boards, the gap between them is covered with a profile that joins the lower one. It should be remembered that an expansion gap of 4 ÷ 5 mm must be provided between the lower element of the profile and the boards.
	Another rather difficult area for flooring a parquet board is heating pipes that go into the interfloor overlap. Of course, you can finish the board, reaching the pipes, and also put a piece of floor material behind them, along the wall, but such a laying will look extremely sloppy. In addition, dust will collect in the remaining gap as well as between the pipes. It is quite simple to solve this problem by laying the board in front of the pipes and marking their location along its width.
	Then the board is moved and laid next to the pipes, and with the help of a construction square, a line for the location of the risers is outlined on it, which will cross the previously indicated lines.
	This will find the points where you need to drill holes.
	To drill the holes, you need a drill bit of the required diameter. For this version of the pipe shown in the picture, a crown with a diameter of 30 mm was used.
	The next step is to cut along a line across the board. The cut should go through the middle of the round holes. Now you can assemble the resulting structure into a single coating. To do this, the cut off part of the board is wound up behind the pipes and installed so that the semicircles are located near the back of the pipes.
	Then, waterproof wood glue is applied to the end of the board, after which the rest of the board is moved to the front of the pipes and joins the segment, that is, it is pressed against the end on which the glue is applied. After that, the gaps left between the pipes and the board are closed with special decorative frames that look like bagels in appearance. These masking parts are provided with connectors that allow them to be divided in two and installed on different sides of the pipe, and then assembled into a single structure. These elements will not only close the gaps from dust entering them, but also give the pipe passage through the floor covering a neat appearance.
	Many craftsmen, who are installing a parquet board for the first time, have problems when laying its last row. The difficulty is that you need to manage to dock the board or its trimmed part with the rest of the coating.
	In case of loose pressing of the boards of the latter to the previous row, it must be tightened using a special device called a bracket. It is inserted into the gap between the board and the wall, and then tapped on its second, upward curved edge. Tapping is done until the board is firmly pressed against the rest of the surface and snaps into place.
	After tightening the last row of flooring, you can remove the spacer wedges and proceed to install and fix the skirting brackets to the wall.
	These details can have different shapes, and they are chosen depending on what kind of plinth you plan to decorate the floor with. The brackets are fixed to the wall in increments of 400 ÷ 500 mm.
	The skirting board can be flat or curly. As a rule, a cable channel is provided on its inner side for carrying out communications. Therefore, before installing the plinth in the brackets, cables are laid in it.
	Now it remains to install the plinth in place. It can simply snap onto the brackets or screw onto them. If the latter option is chosen, then a cover strip is temporarily removed from the middle part of the element, which will open a channel through which the plinths will be fixed to the brackets. Then, the strip returns to its place, which will mask the heads of the mounting screws. It is important - the skirting board can have a different design, it can be attached in a different way. But it should never be fixed to the flooring - only to the wall!
	At the last stage, using a sharp knife, the waterproofing material protruding above the plinth is carefully cut off. The knife must be very sharp so that the film will cut easily, as pressing on the wall can damage its finish.
	The result of this work will be a neat, warm and highly practical floor covering that will last, with proper care, for many years.

Now, after careful study submitted above the material, you can proceed to the practical implementation of the recommendations given in it. As you can see from the step-by-step instructions, "floating" laying of the parquet board can be done independently, having aligned and properly prepared the base for its installation.

And in the end, traditionally, there is a short video that demonstrates the process of laying a parquet board on a plywood base.

Video: Adhesive way of laying a parquet board on a plywood base

When choosing a multi-layer wood flooring, buyers often pay attention to its operational life. At the same time, all manufacturers, without exception, indicate that the finishing material will really last this period only if the rules for laying parquet boards are observed.

The developers of such well-known factories as Chers, Barlinek, Tarket and others are trying to improve their product, working in many respects not only on the appearance, but also on the stacking system. In order to significantly speed up and facilitate the installation process, new locking kits are being developed. Today the following types can be distinguished:

Classic tongue-and-groove or Lock tongue-and-groove connection.
Click hitch - joining the planks at an angle of 10-30 °, followed by pressing to fasten the slats together.
5G system - volumetric fixation. Its names and basic characteristics may vary, but in general the principle is the same - an additional insert or "tongue" made of dense PVC, aluminum is built into the end lock. This component gives the hitch rigidity and strength, prevents seasonal divergence of the planks, and increases the service life of the coating.

How the parquet board is laid correctly depends on the type of locking system. Each package of high-quality flooring material always has detailed installation instructions that answer all the questions of a beginner or experienced craftsman.

Let us dwell on the methods of assembling a multilayer wood covering. Includes:

"Floating" (independent). The floor is assembled exclusively with its own locks, without fastening to the base. This is the best option if you plan to lay the parquet board with your own hands.
Glue. One-component elastic compounds based on polymer (polyurethane, MS and others) are used. The adhesive is applied to any type of screed, including cement and dry prefabricated chipboard, OSB, plywood, etc.
For fasteners. It is used to rigidly fix each plank to the base. In this case, you need special "parquet" (finishing) hardware, pneumatic pins (complete with a pneumatic gun) or classic dowel-nails.

The parquet board layout is standard - offset by 1/3. That is, each subsequent row is shifted relative to the previous one by a third of the bar length. This will form a strong, reliable and durable circular "strapping" of all lamellas.

How to install a parquet board: starting with the basics

The quality of installation of parquet flooring directly depends on how carefully the base is prepared. Criteria:

Floors formed over the ground;
Lags, if there are too damp or warm rooms under the base base (boiler room, boiler room, laundry room, basement, etc.);
Systems of water, soft electric or infrared heating;
Aerated concrete beams.

The features of laying parquet boards are not limited to this list. It is imperative to take into account that:

Advice! Remember that beech or maple floors are subject to active deformation and therefore should not be placed on a warm floor system.

You will need the following materials and tools for laying your parquet board:

Laying parquet boards with your own hands: step by step instructions

Let's describe the installation process in stages.

Preparation of the base

First of all, all old coatings are completely removed, without exception. If, according to the results of measurements, leveling of the floor is required, then for mineral bases you can use:

Self-leveling self-leveling floors on a cement-gypsum or gypsum base;
Dry prefabricated screed made of sheet materials (plywood, chipboard and others).

The finished base is checked for evenness with a control rod more than 2 m long, with a hygrometer for humidity. If the base defects are small, then they are filled with quick-drying repair compounds or a cement-sand mixture.

The screed must be primed before work:

Adhesives, if gluing of a parquet board is supposed;
Reinforcing compositions, if the coating is laid in a "floating" way.

For a wooden base, the work scheme is slightly different. Irregularities (drops, "humps") should be cut or eliminated with a parquet grinder. Pits, chips must be leveled with elastic fillers, and in the presence of squeaks - "pull" the subfloor to the base with screws or nails. In case of multiple defects, it is better to form a new prefabricated screed from chipboard or plywood sheets with a thickness of 16 mm or more. The top is treated with a fungicidal primer.

Preparation for work

After the end of the "wet" work, a waterproofing and backing material is placed on the prepared surface under the parquet board. That is, the film is spread on the floor with an overlap of 15-25 cm, neatly, without creases, and fixed with adhesive tape. Then a sheet or roll backing is already laid end-to-end. This step is skipped for adhesive installation.

Since the parquet board must "acclimatize", the packed material must be kept indoors for 24 to 36 hours. Experts recommend before starting installation work to warm up the floor heating system for 2 weeks, then turn it off 3-4 hours before installation. This will create the correct indoor climate and avoid thermal damage to the finish.

Advice! Wood is a natural product, therefore variations in shade and texture are possible. Do not be afraid of this, it is better to wrap it up to your advantage - to open several packages in advance, lay out the lamellas on the base and form a picture that is beautiful in your opinion.

The next step is to take careful floor measurements and plan the work. To lay the parquet board as evenly as possible, draw a scaled layout on a piece of paper. The width of the last row should not be less than 5 cm. In this case, it is necessary to displace the first in proportion.

Installation of flooring

Floating installation starts from the longest wall from left to right. Expansion wedges are placed around the perimeter. Some experts recommend doing this after assembling the first three rows: the finished coating moves with a bracket and spacers are inserted into the resulting gaps.

The assembly itself begins with the fact that the protruding part of the lock is cut off at the strips of the first row, then the first is installed in the corner and installation along the end edge begins. The edge plate is trimmed if necessary. The next row is formed from the remainder of the previous lamella. For a parquet board of a classic Click-lock, end couplings are first connected, then docking is performed along the length with the obligatory tamping with an impact block.

Note that it is much more convenient to work with Lock and 5G connections. They can be joined as needed both longitudinally and across, which is demonstrated in the video below.

For some types of volumetric locks, it is not required to additionally adjust the plastic insert. It is enough to correctly snap the plates.

The last row of boards must be carefully sized (cut), then assembled at the end locks and inserted into the gap between the wall and the extreme row. The laid parquet must be pressed with a metal bracket or a squeeze.

If the edge of the strip rests against a pipe or other similar obstacle, then a cut line is marked with a pencil, a piece is sawn off, a hole is drilled with a compensation margin of at least 10-16 mm. The lamella is put in place, an adhesive is applied to the cut and the cut element is glued.

After the assembly is completed, the wedges must be removed, the floor heating system must be turned on, gradually increasing the temperature, and the decorative plinth and thresholds in the doors must be mounted. The formation of gaps in the openings between rooms is not a whim, but a requirement of manufacturers.

When installing a parquet board using the glue method, the order of work will be slightly different:

Apply adhesive to the prepared substrate and spread evenly with a notched trowel.
Cut off the edge of the boards of the first row.
Assemble the coating in a standard manner, tapping with a bar and loading it with a load for better adhesion, or fixing with hardware that "drives" into the locking groove at an angle of 45 °. In the same way, the parquet is fastened to the base with nails or pins of a pneumatic gun without an adhesive compound.

After completing all the work, many manufacturers recommend rinsing the floor with special products for parquet and parquet boards, so that the wax contained in them reliably seals all the joints.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the work that needs to be performed and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and firms by mail. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It is FREE and non-binding.

When the renovation is nearing completion, you should think about the design of the floor. Despite the huge selection of floor coverings, lovers of environmentally friendly materials choose parquet boards.

Types of parquet boards

Usually builders classify flooring by the number of stripes. They are visible on the decorative surface of the board. According to this criterion, parquet boards are of several types:

Single-lane. This manufacturing technology allows you to make a board from a single piece of wood, preserving the natural texture of the material.

Types of parquet boards depending on the quantity
lamella strips in the top layer

Two-way. The base of this type of boards is made of a solid or composite plate. The upper decorative layer is made of two dies.

Three-lane. This is a self-explanatory name. Such a parquet element consists of three strips, each of which is divided into fragments.

Four-lane. The parquet floor element consists of four strips.

Laying parquet boards: video

Preparing the floor for laying parquet boards

No matter what type of parquet board the choice fell on, the floor for laying it must be prepared according to a number of mandatory requirements. Indoors, it is necessary to complete all preparatory work, eliminate sources of draft and moisture. It is best to install on a concrete floor. The substrate must be clean and free from drops. If there are serious defects, pits or bumps, they must be eliminated in any convenient way. The surface should be checked with a building level. A deviation from the horizontal is allowed by no more than 2 millimeters per 2 square meters. The base for laying the parquet board must be dry, and any cracks will lead to defects in the finished floor covering.

Before self-laying parquet boards, they must be held for two days in the room where the work will be carried out. Temperature adaptation will increase the flexibility of the boards and activate their properties.

1.damp-proof film
2.foamed polyethylene or polystyrene
3.plywood sheets

The next step will be the preparation of the cement base: laying of waterproofing and thermal insulation materials:

On the cleaned concrete base, it is necessary to lay a special waterproofing film in strips. Its laying is done along the room. Each strip of film should overlap one another by 15-20 centimeters. Waterproofing should be installed on the walls to a height of about 5 centimeters.
Thermal insulation is laid on the waterproofing film. Foamed polyethylene or polystyrene can be used as such. The thermal insulation is laid out end-to-end against the wall, and the elements are glued together with adhesive tape.
Further, it is possible to lay plywood or chipboard sheets, on which a parquet board is then glued. If a solid method of fixing the boards is chosen.

Completing these two steps allows you to start laying your parquet board yourself.

Parquet board laying technologies

Professional builders who specialize in laying flooring suggest the following main types of work for laying floorboards:

Floating method

The so-called "floating" method. For this technology, the preparation of the concrete base is carried out as described above, that is, waterproofing and thermal insulation.

With this method, parquet boards are connected to each other without being attached to the base. The first row of parquet boards, when laid on their own, is placed along a longer wall, but not the one where there is a doorway. Laying is done towards the window if the window is located on a shorter wall. Previously, parquet boards were glued together with a special compound. It provided strength and at the same time elasticity of the entire future surface.

Now, to save time and convenience, parquet boards are equipped with special locks. They represent a system when there is a groove on one board and a ledge on the other for it. Such a system allows you to lay parquet boards with your own hands, without the help of specialists. Each board is placed with the top lock against the wall, leaving a gap of about 1 centimeter. It is worth remembering that the gap must be less than the width of the plinth, otherwise it will not close. For convenience, special construction wedges can be inserted between the wall and the board. They are removed after the flooring is completely finished.

Lock for joining parquet boards type "CLIC"

The next row of the parquet board starts from the remaining element of the previous row. It is necessary to tightly connect the boards to each other until the lock clicks. Sometimes they close tightly. In this case, they can be knocked out. Under no circumstances should a hammer be used. For these purposes, a wooden block or a rubberized mallet is suitable.

"Floating" technology is used in relatively small rooms with an area of no more than 50 square meters. This method is very practical. In the event of a defect in one or several boards, it will allow you to disassemble the floor and replace the necessary elements without any problems.

"Non-floating" or solid method

This method involves a slightly different preparation of the concrete base. However, it is also cleaned and flattened. After that, plywood sheets are laid on the concrete base. Its thickness is not less than a centimeter, and a water-repellent coating is also desirable. Plywood sheets are pre-cut into elements, each side of which should be no more than 1 meter. They are laid with gaps of at least 5 millimeters from each other. After the room is completely covered with plywood, the base should be well sanded and free from dust.

Fastening the parquet board to the base with nails without a head

The solid method involves carrying out all work in a room with a temperature of about + 20 degrees. The laying technique itself is the same as in the "floating" method, however, each parquet board is independently glued to the plywood base. Additionally, seams between parquet boards are glued.

Fastening the parquet board to the base with a construction gun

A special material is used as an adhesive. It is also necessary to leave a gap between the wall and the parquet boards, which is subsequently covered with a skirting board. Before installing the skirting board, and after the work in the room is completed, you need to cut off any protruding insulation materials with a sharp knife.

Laying parquet boards on a wooden base

This method is in many ways similar to laying boards on logs and is used when there is already a wooden base in the room. Parquet boards are nailed to it, a waterproofing substrate is pre-laid. This work can be done when the base is level.

The process of laying parquet boards on a wooden floor

Laying parquet boards on logs

This method can only be used when using thick parquet boards. Wooden beams are used as logs. With the help of a building level, they are installed across the room, where waterproofing material must be laid in advance.

To fasten the lag to the floor, you should use the dowel-nails. It is necessary to retreat no more than 5 centimeters from the wall and install the first block. The following are installed at a distance of no more than 40 centimeters. The horizontalness of the lags must be checked with a level in all directions. To level the lags, special plates are placed under them. Parquet boards are laid on logs in the traditional way and fixed to them with nails. They are hammered at a 45 degree angle into the base of the board. This place is then covered by another board inserted into the groove.

Fastening parquet boards to joists

Diagonal styling

Another type of laying parquet boards is diagonal arrangement... This method uses any of the fastening methods described above. Laying begins with placing the parquet board in the middle. Then an angle of 45 degrees is laid from it and the same is at the end of the board. The corners should be mirrored. After that, the board is cut and tried on to the wall with a tenon with a traditional centimeter gap. If the markings and saw cut are done correctly, then the work continues according to the usual rules.

Diagonal laying of parquet boards

The final step should be to fill in the corner from where the work was started. The diagonal flooring method increases the amount of material needed. Therefore, laying it with your own hands requires careful calculations.