Devices for sharpening small drills. Homemade tools for sharpening drills. Assembly of parts into a single apparatus and arrangement of safety elements

Drill sharpening can be done manually, on machines or special abrasive discs.

If you sharpen the drill by hand, then it is necessary:

• firmly hold the shank, and with the other hand guide its spiral part;
• press the cutting edge of the drill against the side surface abrasive wheel;
• after sharpening one side, it is necessary to smoothly turn the drill, while the cutting edges must necessarily have the correct inclination to the axis and take the desired configuration.

The drill is sharpened alternately on both sides. When doing this, be sure to control the cutting edges.

Remember! The tip of the drill should be exactly in the center.

Otherwise, it will be rejected during operation. It is worth noting that in no case should you press hard on the drill, otherwise it may get defects (bend).

For example, if after sharpening you notice that the cutting edges are not the same and are inclined at different angles to the axis, then this means that the middle of the transverse edge is not in the center of the drill, and it will not work correctly.

When sharpening, be sure to pay attention to the original angle of the tool. It is he who will become your guide in the future. Then inspect the gimlet for damage:

• if you find serious defects, then you can use coarse sandpaper;
• if the defects are small and the drill is blunted quite a bit, use a lapping wheel. This operation is necessary for thin drills;
• if the concrete drill has defects in the shank cone - process the upper part of the tool, gently pressing it against the grinding wheel;
• after processing, carefully inspect the back surface of the drill again;
• if you notice, or determine with a template, that you have a perfect cone, you have sharpened the tool correctly.

After that, process the cutting edge of the drill. The size of the jumper for rational turning of the tool should be 1-1.7 mm.

What are the features of grinding machines

A home-made device for sharpening drills is designed for through and deaf gimlets made of steels, cast iron and various hard alloys. Depending on the type, the machines can be endowed with different functions. On some of them during operation, you can vary the angle.

Sharpening machines are:

• universal - used for various cutting tools;
• specialized - for one species.

It is to universal machines that devices for sharpening drills are referred, because they can process:

• taps;
• cutters;
• dugouts;
• countersinks.

Machines are divided into two categories:

1. Industrial - have high power and are designed for tool sharpening large diameter. Power depends directly on the engine.
2. A household drill grinder is quite compact and is often used for home use. With it, even small-diameter drills can be processed.

There are seven sharpening methods:

1. Single plane.
2. Complicated-screw.
3. Shaped.
4. Elliptical.
5. Conical.
6. Biplanar.
7. Screw.

How to make a drill sharpener

To make a homemade machine you will need:

• toggle switch;
• abrasive wheel;
• plug;
• engine;
• stand;
• wires.

Follow our advice:

1. For safety reasons, place homemade machine into the housing, leaving only the axle and abrasive wheel outside. Remember, the device will work from the mains.
2. Choose in advance the place where your drill sharpener will stand. It is desirable that it be on a metal table.
3. Next, put the electric motor on the tabletop with the help of fasteners (clamps) and mark the locations of the bolt holes, if it has paws.
4. After that, remove the electric motor and make 4 holes.
5. Later, reinstall the motor and secure it carefully with the bolts.

Advice: If the engine does not have legs, you can strengthen it with metal strips (clamps).

The electric motor for our future machine must be equipped with a special elongated shaft, on which a granular disk should be put on. For this:

1. Install the fixing nut, having previously cut a right-hand thread on the end of the shaft.
2. Secure the disc with washers and nuts.

If the diameter of the shaft and the hole of the disc match, then install the washer on the shaft, and then the abrasive disc. If the diameter of the shaft and hole do not match, then you need to add a bushing.

Pre-make a special side hole in it with a thread for the bolt in order to be able to tightly fasten it to the shaft. After that, you can put on the sleeve.

If you can't decide on an electric motor, then just take the motor of an old washing machine. It is ideal for homemade device sharpening.

It is worth noting that you must prepare the starter and wires in advance, which will later need to be connected. It is very important that the starter has at least three or four open contacts. Its winding must be connected using two buttons to the phase line.

Attention! The electric motor will be unsafe, regardless of the type - during operation, the rotating shaft can accidentally wind the cord, wire, hair.

Advice: Make a metal box to protect the machine from dust, abrasive particles, and you from accidental injury.

How to sharpen a drill on a machine

1. When sharpening, it is necessary to ensure that the two shoulders of the drill are the same. If you achieve such a correspondence, then the axis of rotation of the drill will completely coincide with the center of the hole.
2. Before sharpening, always make sure that the abrasive disc is firmly fixed.
3. Always start the process with a coarser abrasive. After a burr appears on your drill, you can change the abrasive to a finer one.
4. Watch the sharpening angle.
5. Do not allow the windings to be switched so that the abrasive disc rotates in reverse. It should always move only in the direction of the blade.

Please note that drills do not tolerate excessive heat. Cool the gimlet regularly while sharpening. But in no case do not lower a red-hot drill into the water, as cavities may appear in it.

Accessories

1. guide

In order not to keep the drill in the process of sharpening on weight (this can lead to injury), provide a substrate or guide in the form of a small attachment. It is made from a strip of metal, bent as shown in the figure and screwed to the frame (base). The drill rests on it and is brought to the circle at the right angle.

1. Goniometer

Make on the guide described above, risks (marks) at the required sharpening angles. It will become much more convenient to use it.

If this is difficult for you, cut off the top of a regular protractor and glue it onto the guide.

Angles less than 30 0 are not used for sharpening, so we sacrifice them.

1. Universal fixture

To facilitate the sharpening of tools, in particular drills, a mechanism has been developed, consisting of a drill chuck, a shaft, roller guides (sled) and a protractor.

The base substrate described above is made wide. A protractor is glued to it. A hole is drilled into which a bolt is inserted, which serves as the axis for the rotary surface.

A plate is installed on it on a roller slide, on which a pipe with a cartridge is fixed on the axis. The plate itself moves forward/backward using a conventional feed mechanism (threaded axle).

At the bottom of the rotary plate, a displacement limiter is fixed. It serves to rotate the device to the desired angle and for its stopper.

Working with fixture

In principle, it is possible to bring a dull tool into proper condition manually. But how high will the speed and accuracy be with this technology? In addition, if the drill is carbide, this is quite difficult to do. The author proposes to assemble a machine for sharpening drills with his own hands, which will allow them to be used repeatedly.

Equipment industrial production it is quite expensive - from 43,900 rubles.

True, Chinese products (for example, "GQ-D13") can be bought for 6,800 - 7,200.

But it is unlikely that such cheap models will suit home master, given that the case is made of plastic, and the engine power is in the range of 80 - 120 watts. In addition, only certain types of drills can be sharpened on them, so there is no need to talk about the versatility of use. Therefore, such machines do not count. The feasibility of making a “grindstone” for domestic use with your own hands is more than obvious.

This article does not consider options for manufacturing a grinding machine based on an angle grinder (“grinder” is not in every home, and it is unlikely that anyone will buy it only for these purposes) or an electric / drill (for which you will also have to look for special devices in stores). The simplest and most convenient option is the traditional “grindstone” made from improvised materials, which almost any of us has encountered, and more than once.

There is nothing complicated in the design of such a machine. However, there are a number of features in its do-it-yourself assembly, and this is what the author draws attention to. Having dealt with all the nuances, it will not be difficult to make an installation for a “home” use of labor (the entire process of sharpening a drill is discussed here).

What you need for assembly

El/motor

On the machine in everyday life, various drills are sharpened, including large diameter ones. In addition, the primary processing of the cutting edges of the tool and their finishing are separate stages of work. Therefore, you will have to change the circle and put the one that is at hand from the pre-purchased ones. Since the machine is equipment for long-term use, it is necessary to mount it for the future. Based on this:

• engine power: about 1.2 - 1.5 kW is enough;
• food: single-phase. Any garage or small workshop (barn) on the site, with rare exceptions, is connected to the 1f 220/50 line. From this it is necessary to proceed.

grinding wheel

Moreover, there should be several of them, with different grain sizes. To securely fix the abrasive on the motor shaft, bushings are prepared that clamp it on both sides.

Sharpening fixture

You can limit yourself to the simplest "shelf", but then you will not be able to withstand the required angle. This work requires a lot practical experience.

The device can also be purchased, although it is quite rare for sale.

The best option is to make it yourself. For example, these are:

Circuit elements

• Starter magnetic (with 3 pairs of contacts) for circuit 3 f.
• Start / stop button or 2 different ones - to turn the machine on and off. And necessarily the third - an emergency stop. It is often combined with a pedal, which is much more convenient and safer, since your hands will be busy when sharpening drills.
• Wires. With the specified engine power, it is enough for 1 "square".

The simplest switching circuits for three-phase motors are shown in the figures:

It is easy to find an acceptable one on the Internet, depending on which particular motor is used, how its windings are connected (“star” or “delta”), to which voltage source it will be connected (1 or 3 phases).

Security elements

• Cover over the circle.
• Screen (optional).

There are certain types of work in which the sharpening of drills is done only on machine tools, and not manually.

• When drilling to a greater depth, when a slight undercutting is required.
• If the drills are universal, allowing you to work even with materials of increased density.
• For making "blind" holes with a special tool.

Sharpening drills with a grinder is not recommended for several reasons. Firstly, angle grinders are unlikely to be securely fixed. Secondly, the accuracy will be unsatisfactory. Thirdly, after the end of such sharpening, it is rather difficult to make the correct fine-tuning of the drill. Fourthly, this technique is suitable only for partial restoration of the operability of a tool of relatively small diameter (no more than 5).

If the workbench in the garage is rather “flimsy”, you will have to mount a special table on metal legs. For this, a large corner, pipe or channel is suitable. The tabletop, taking into account the weight of the machine (primarily the engine), must be durable. Thin sheet metal is not an option. The stand for the machine can also be made of wood, but of sufficient thickness. Its fastening also requires attention. It should be as reliable as possible, at all points provided on the engine frame, and only on bolts.

When deciding on the engine switching scheme, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of changing the number of revolutions. Since you will have to work with different drills, you need to know that the harder the material of the tool, the lower the angular speed of rotation of the abrasive wheel should be.

As practice shows, not all inexperienced craftsmen understand when the drill needs to be sharpened. Signs indicating that the tool is dull:

• rattle (sometimes "buzz") at the initial stage of drilling;
• rapid heating of the metal, often accompanied by a characteristic odor.

Untimely sharpening significantly reduces the life of the drill and is the most common cause of its breakage.

issmith.ru

Do-it-yourself drill sharpener drawings

If you are constantly dealing with sharpening hard workpieces, then the surface of the drill will become unusable very quickly. It will become dull, get very hot and eventually lose its former strength. All this is a consequence of the "letting go" of the metal. That is why such a tool needs periodic sharpening with the help of special devices.

How to make homemade devices for sharpening drills, what templates exist for this and what you need to prepare for work, you will learn from our article.

• Features of sharpening drills

Features of sharpening drills

Drills are inexpensive devices, especially if we talk about those that are widely used for domestic needs. However, if possible, then after blunting it is better to sharpen the tools than to buy new ones.

There are factory-made sharpening devices, but you will spend a lot on buying them, and this will not make up for the savings if you refuse to purchase new tools. That is why many craftsmen assemble machines for sharpening with their own hands.

It is worth noting that blunting applies to metal drills, since wood tools are practically not affected, except when used at high speeds with a resinous workpiece. Pobedite tips for stone or concrete are also not subject to sharpening.

But many drills for metal are sharpened using all the additional devices with their own hands, but the accuracy of such work is far from always ideal, so it is advisable to use at least a minimum of mechanics.

How to make a do-it-yourself drill sharpener: a tutorial video

To make such a device yourself, you will need a control tool (template). No matter how the drill is sharpened, the accuracy is checked by a special template.

Simple drills for ferrous metal have an edge angle of 115 to 120 degrees. If the metal is different, then the sharpening angles will also be different:

• for carbide bronze, steel or cast iron, it is also from 115 to 120 degrees;
• for soft bronze or brass alloys - from 125 to 135, respectively;
• for red copper 125 degrees;
• for aluminum and soft aluminum alloys, granite, ceramics and wood - 135 degrees;
• for magnesium and its alloys - 85 degrees;
• for plastic, textolite and silumin - from 90 to 100 degrees.

You can prepare several templates at once, depending on the listed values ​​​​and, in accordance with them, sharpen with your own hands. The same drill can be used for different types blanks, you just need to change the corners of the top of the workplace.

A simple but very handy dragging device is bushings of different sizes that are attached to the base. You can make them yourself, based on special drawings. Remember that the tool in the sleeve should not dangle, and the quality of drilling may deteriorate even if the error is only one degree.

You can make a large clip based on aluminum or copper tubes, depending on the typical parameters of the drills, or you can take a bar from soft material and make a lot of holes in it. In the grinder, it is very important to put a convenient handrest, thanks to which it will be possible to move the sharpening device at the right angle and hold the stop.

The listed sharpening devices have been manufactured for many decades in a row and are still in demand. To assemble a grinding machine with your own hands, you can take an oak bar instead of a corner.

The simplest machine for sharpening can be assembled by simply placing a workbench or table opposite the side of the emery. Even such a simple device provides high quality and accuracy of work.

Features of sharpening on a simple device

On the Internet, you can find ready-made drawings of devices for sharpening drills, or sketch them yourself, but for this you should understand the principle of working with a drill.

During operation, it is strictly forbidden to allow the movement of the drill around its axis. If it turns at least a millimeter, it will be damaged, and you will have to grind a small distance for re-processing.

After finishing work, the drill should cool down, also take measurements with templates. The edges must be perfectly symmetrical down to tenths of a millimeter. This is especially important if the drill has a minimum diameter.

Sharpening may be accompanied by such errors:

• the corners will be correct and symmetrical, but the length of the cutting edges will not. In this case, the center of drilling will shift relative to the axis, as a result of which beats appear. At the very beginning of work, it will be difficult to get into the markup, and the drill itself may break;
• When the corners of the cutting edge are asymmetrical to each other, the centering is accurate. During the creation of holes, only one cutting part works, the work is very slow and the tip heats up quickly. There may be a "release" of the hardened metal due to heating, the hole may be broken, and the diameter will exceed the diameter of the drill.

How to assemble a grinder for metal twist drills from improvised means?

For the basis of the device, you can take any grinding machine that is able to work properly, there is no axis beating in it, and it keeps the speed under load.

The task looks like this:

• the handist must strictly stand horizontally on the same axis with the rotation of the emery;
• the design must be safe, reliable and durable;
• it should be possible to sharpen both manually and semiautomatically;
• the shape of the handpiece should facilitate the free lowering of the drill shank to the desired angle.

Specific details for the manufacture of this device are not required, almost every home master has everything you need. The blanks are processed with a grinder, welding or a grinder.

For the semi-automatic mode, a rocking stop is assumed, so you need to make a loop connection. Accurately match the holes of the bolt, bracket and tube to eliminate backlash.

The platform must move along the vertical axis so that you can change the angle of sharpening the drill. This axis can be fixed, and the hand rest should swing, while leaning on the horizontal axis, which provides the desired articulation when sharpening.

The base plate is made of metal 4 mm thick, and the main parts of the structure must be 3 mm thick, respectively. This ensures its high strength. The handpiece with the body of the emery is rigidly connected. It is impossible to fasten it to the protective casing, therefore, use the metal "cheek" to screw the bracket.

Then we fasten the guide plate for drills with a thickness of 5 mm to the base plate. In it, to fix the drill during processing, a triangular groove is sawn.

The design has an angle of rotation of 90 degrees, which allows for sharpening in different ways. Starting from the Leontiev method and ending with pressing at a certain angle and creating an acute edge angle due to the curvature of the emery.

During processing, the drill will not only stand firmly in the groove, it can also be fed along the groove to the abrasive, and the sharpening angle will not deviate. Due to the partial excess of the plane of the base plate above the axis of movement of the disk, it is possible to achieve the desired shape of sharpening the back of the edge.

Before performing work, the drill should be pressed against the plate and set the cutting edge parallel to it. The adjustment is over and you can bring the tool to the emery. Sharpening must be done slowly and carefully, carefully monitor the angle.

Thanks to this homemade tool, high accuracy sharpening and practically no template is needed. True, it will take time to install the machine and adjust the angle, but then you can easily quickly sharpen the drills in the right amount.

But if you need to sharpen a drill equipped with a carbide nozzle, then you can attach a swinging plate to a fixed angle. To do this, put several washers under the axle nut.

Using an emery wheel in a homemade sharpening tool

For universal grinding work, white circles based on electrocorundum are mainly used. They are used for sharpening shovels, axes, knives and metal blanks.

In order to process carbide drills or high-speed metals, it is necessary to take abrasive green wheels based on silicon carbide marked 64C. But for domestic needs, the grain size of the circle is enough for 25N.

Sharpening drills requires a finer fraction in the range from 8H to 16H. Remember that silicon carbide emery gets very hot during operation, so the drill cannot be kept in contact with such an abrasive for a long time. Let the metal cool down after 2-3 passes and chill it in soda water.

The quality of the edge depends on the direction of rotation of the abrasive. Its working surface must run into the cut (go from top to bottom).

The peripheral surface of the emery during processing must be even. It can be edited with a nozzle based on CBN. If the disk has a small diameter, it is allowed to use pliers in which the CBN cutter will be held.

So, we looked at how at home you can assemble and use devices of varying complexity in order to sharpen drills and more. Choose suitable option you can according to your household needs.

Homemade machine for sharpening drills

instrument.guru

Do-it-yourself drill sharpening machine - penny costs, profit - ruble

Drilling metal or wood is a job that you do regularly. A high-quality nozzle does not require sharpening for a long time, but there are some errors in which blunting occurs ahead of time:

1. The use of a drill that does not match the material being processed. This does not necessarily mean drilling reinforced concrete with a wood drill, although in this case you will instantly turn cutting tool into a rod with a rounded end. There are specially made drill bits for drilling various types of metal and hard plastics. In case of discrepancy - the cutting edge quickly becomes unusable;
2. Wrong sharpening angle. This value must also correspond to the type of material in which the hole is made;
3. Overheat. The most common reason. When working with durable material, we want to quickly finish drilling, and we often forget about such trifles as cooling the work area. If it is not possible to ensure the supply of coolant to the tool, it is necessary to take breaks to cool the cutting edge. You can dip a hot drill into a container of water.

The mechanism of hot blunting is simple: The hot edge is “released”, that is, it loses its hardness. Cutting properties deteriorate, resulting in increased friction. Heating increases more strongly, and the process is aggravated in an arithmetic progression.

As a result, we may lose a good and possibly expensive tool. If there is a grinder for drills at hand, the problem is solved on the spot, if not, you have to invent your own methods of sharpening.

Manual sharpening without tools

Locksmiths with extensive experience sharpen drills with their hands, using only a sharpener with a handy tool. But not all home masters can boast of such skills.

In addition, in this way it is possible to restore sharpness only to products of large diameter. Then it is easier to control the angle. The most popular size (3-5 mm) cannot be sharpened in this way. Even a template won't help here.

Craftsmen who regularly carry out drilling work will be interested in the variety of grinders for drills offered in power tool stores.

However, such devices (despite the obvious ease of use) are quite expensive. So the “home-made” run to the store for another Chinese tip. But home craftsmen with experience still use a tool from the times of the USSR, which corresponds to GOSTs in terms of strength and durability.

The secret is simple - many old-school locksmiths have a homemade sharpening machine in stock.

IMPORTANT! For most household chores, you can get by with simple sharpening tools. Especially if the word "machine" scares you.

The simplest devices for dressing the cutting edge of the drill

To understand the process, take a look at constituent parts tip.

Clamp "swift". To use this device, it is enough to have an emery wheel (grindstone) equipped with a durable handpiece. The drill is clamped in the device at the desired angle of rotation of the edge. Controlling the feed angle of the cutting edge, we form it on the grindstone, then, without changing the angle, we “leave” for sharpening the backing.

The device necessarily rests on a handpiece, the angles are controlled by hands. If you have certain skills, you can get a good result with obvious savings.

IMPORTANT! Before using the device on quality tips, practice on defective ones. This will allow you to “fill your hand” and “feel the angle”, as the masters say.

Of course, the use of a template is required.

Also, before starting work, you should familiarize yourself with the standard tables of sharpening angles for various materials drilling.

Sometimes it is enough just to change the angle and level setting of the tool rest, and sharpening large drills becomes an easy task.

This method is appropriate for small amounts of work and the absence of high requirements for the quality of drilling. If you drill regularly and accuracy is important, you will have to buy a grinder or make one yourself.

Homemade grinding machine - basic design principles

There are two main tasks:

• Feed the cutting edge of the drill to the flat side of the abrasive wheel at a strictly fixed angle. To do this, the machine must have an angular degree grid. Moreover, the angles are maintained in two planes - horizontally and vertically;
• After forming and sharpening the cutting edge, it is necessary to form a backing. To do this, the fixture must have an axis of rotation;

No matter how modern the machines and devices offered in stores look, the principle of their work has not changed for more than 100 years. This is evidenced by a photo of a manual from a vocational school of the sample of 1905.

Consider step by step how to make a device for sharpening drills from improvised materials.

Tools used:

1. welding inverter;
2. angle grinder (Bulgarian);
3. Drill;
4. The standard set of a locksmith - pliers, hammer, vice.

Materials used (found in the heap metal trash, which is in every home workshop):

1. Corner 30-30 mm. Length 100-150 mm;
2. Metal plates 3-4 mm thick;
3. Steel circle or hairpin with a diameter of 10-12 mm;
4. Washers of different sizes, standard fasteners.

We take the angles of the factory sharpening as a basis. Based on this scheme, we assemble the entire structure.

The bed is made of a steel plate, on which, according to the factory drawing template, an axis from a circle with a diameter of 12 mm is welded. Axis tilt angle 75°.

A washer is tightly mounted on the axis, which will serve as a support bearing for the rotary mechanism of the bed. Since the turn will be made at a small angle, a ball bearing is not needed.

From the corner we cut out the bed for the drill. Length about 100 mm. The side that will face the grindstone is ground at an angle of 60 °. The bracket for the swivel assembly is welded at an angle, according to the drawing. As a result, we have a general design angle with a parallel position of the bed and bed, corresponding to the sharpening parameters of twist drills.

IMPORTANT! For drills for different metals, different cutting edge angles are provided, and grinders must have an adjustable angle. The proposed design has a fixed angle, for the sake of ease of execution.

We make adjustment tests. Sharpening begins with a perpendicular position of the tip relative to the axis of rotation of the emery.

Then, by turning the bed, a plane (more precisely, a cone) of the backing is formed.

Sharpening is checked on the template and evaluated visually. All planes comply with the standard.

A guide is welded to the lower (rear) part of the corner bed to stop the drill shank. The emphasis itself is welded from the coupling and the corner.

Fixation is made with a screw. The stop is set to the limit value of the edge to be ground, and due to this, both cutting elements of the drill are ground symmetrically.

The sharpening of the working edge is made against the rotation of the emery wheel. In this case, the resulting burr is automatically removed by the running surface of the emery. For sharpening, two or three swings of the bed along the radius of the backing cone are sufficient.

This type of drill is sharpened along the outer surface of the emery stone, if necessary, use the lateral (radial) plane - the device can be turned to any angle.

The drill grinder is attached to the workbench with a clamp. You can fix the base permanently - but in this case, the possibility of fine adjustment will be lost.

As noted at the beginning of the material, this device has a fixed bed angle. If it becomes necessary to change the angle, for example, for dressing a drill for non-ferrous metals, you can place a wedge of the appropriate inclination under the bed.

This design is not the only one available for self-production.

Let's consider a fundamentally different option that works on the same principle: Parallel to the axis of rotation of the electric motor, a "P" shaped portal with a swing bed in the upper part is installed. The height of the bed is selected so that the drill is higher than the axis of rotation of the emery wheel.

The bed has an angular range of almost 180°, which allows you to sharpen drills with both the upper clamp and the lower one.

The horizontal angle is adjustable, depending on the type of handpiece.

As a stop for the shank of the drills, bushings with clamping screws are used. This design allows you to adjust the drill overhang to the nearest millimeter.

The sleeve is installed in one of the rectangular grooves of the bed, and securely fixes the drill from horizontal movement. Diametrical studs in the sleeve serve for the correct orientation of the drill in the plane of sharpening. After processing one edge, the drill is turned over 180 ° and the second side is processed.

The distance to the emery is selected in such a way that too much material is not removed during sharpening. Shaking the bed several times, sharpening is performed until the drill passes freely along the emery.

The quality of processing does not differ from the use of factory machines for sharpening. Drills from 3 to 15 mm.

Autonomous drill sharpening machine

The considered options are in addition to the standard grinder. You can also make a full-fledged compact sharpening machine yourself, without the use of expensive components.

The bed is assembled from plexiglass 10 mm thick. The motor is from an old fan. The guide works on the principle of a caliper - the stop is fixed in an approximate position, then the exact distance to the grinding wheel is set using the trimmer screw. The drill moves horizontally, at a predetermined angle.

Having made any of the presented devices, you will save money, and you will always be provided with a supply of sharp drills.

Video tutorial "Manual sharpening twist drills" will help you understand how to restore the sharpness of the drill at home with regular emery.

obinstrumente.ru

Making a homemade grinding machine for drills

The device for sharpening drills is useful in any household. After all, working with a blunt drill is one torment. The mechanism can be made by hand using unnecessary and obsolete parts.

Drill sharpening rules

Drills can be sharpened on special grinding discs, manually or on machines. Before starting work, carefully examine the drills: if there are serious defects on the surface, you need to start sharpening with a coarser abrasive. If the tool is a little dull, use a finishing disk.

When sharpening manually with your own hands, you need to follow the rules:

• hold the shank with one hand, touch up the working end with the other;
• handle the cutting edge with the side of the grinding disc;
• first, one side is sharpened, after which the drill is carefully turned over and the second is processed.

During processing, it is important to maintain the original shape of the drill and the direction of the cutting edges. It is necessary to ensure that the tip of the tip does not move from the center, otherwise the tool will deviate to the side during operation. If after sharpening the angle of the cutting edges is not the same, the work of the drill will be of poor quality. This is determined using a do-it-yourself template, or by eye: the shape of the tip should be a cone. To avoid mistakes, it is better to edit on specialized devices.

Types of grinding equipment

Homemade apparatus designed for sharpening drills from various metals, cutters, taps, cutters, countersinks, cutters.

Equipment can be:

• specialized - processes a single type of tool;
• universal - used for all types of cutters and drills.

Home-made mechanisms are more often of a universal household type. Industrial machines are powerful, work with large tools. There is no need for such houses, they are noisy, take up a lot of space and are energy-intensive.

Household homemade machines are suitable for sharpening small and medium diameter drills, they are compact and economical.

Making a sharpening machine

To assemble the machine with your own hands, you need to prepare:

• electric motor;
• grinding disc;
• toggle switch;
• stand;
• electric cable;
• plug.

All components of the machine do-it-yourself are placed inside the case. This will make your work safe and convenient. Only the pulley of the electric motor, on which the grinding wheel is put on, should be accessible. The machine is permanently attached to the workbench, so the place must be selected in advance.

• place the electric motor in the right place, mark the attachment points on the table;
• drill holes for mounting bolts;
• return the electric motor to its place and screw it to the workbench; clamps made of thin metal strips are suitable for fastening;
• install protective case;
• put on the engine pulley grinding wheel.

It is advisable to choose an engine with an extended pulley, otherwise it will have to be delivered. First, the puck is put on, then the circle. If the diameters of the pulley and the disk do not match, an adapter sleeve is used. A threaded hole is made on the side of the bushing, an additional mounting bolt is screwed into it.

In terms of power for a homemade machine, the engine from the washing machine is suitable. Do not select a high-speed engine, as the drills are sharpened at low speed.

Now you can connect the electrical component: toggle switch, motor and connect them to the outlet.

Additional devices

DIY accessories make the work of sharpening drills more convenient and accurate.

Template for verification. The template is cut out of a sheet of thin (1 mm) soft metal (aluminum, copper). The template reveals the angles at the point, the duration of the working edges, the angle between the working edge and the bridge. Since it is almost impossible to check the rear angle of sharpening the drill with a template, the sharpening angle is verified. The template is cut before the first use of the drill.

Guide. This is a small prefix, which is made of a metal strip and is fixed to the body with a bolt. During operation, the drill is placed on the guide and brought to the grindstone.

Goniometer. On the stand, which is described above, divisions of the sharpening angles are applied. You can cut off part of the metal protractor with the marks of the corners and attach it to the stand. You need to cut off a part with angles of more than 30 degrees, since smaller ones are not used when sharpening.

Device for sharpening drills: 1 - rail; 2 - drill; 3 - grinding wheel; 4 - bed; 5 - holder

A device that facilitates sharpening drills. It consists of a fixed bed and holder, which has holes for inserting cutters of different sizes. The holder can be removed. The bed is made of a 50 mm board, a rail is attached to it at an angle of 32 degrees. The rail exposes the holder with the tool at the required angle. The do-it-yourself holder is sawn out of a bar, the surface of which is removed at an angle of 65 degrees. The beveled part fits to the rail. The bevel angles of the holder and rail depend on the type of sharpening.

Multifunctional mechanism

Sharpening drills will become easier when using this mechanism. The device consists of:

• roller sled;
• guide;
• shaft;
• protractor;
• drill chuck.

The guide should be made wide enough, a protractor is attached to it. A bolt inserted into the provided hole serves as the axis of rotation. Guides and a movable plate are placed on the rotary part. An axis, a tube, is fixed on its surface, on the one hand the axis ends with a drill chuck, on the other - with a handle. The movement of the stop plate is provided by a threaded axle.

At the bottom of the thrust plate there is a limiter (it is also a pointer), which simultaneously indicates required angle displacement and fixes in desired position.

The mechanism works as follows:

• the drill is fixed in the cartridge;
• the thrust plate is locked at the required angle;
• the tool is rotated along the longitudinal axis with the help of a handle;
• mark the corner;
• turn the cutter 90 degrees and process the second half, reaching the marked angle.

Sharpening rules on a homemade machine

• When processing drills, both shoulders must be identical. This means that the drill will go straight into the hole and drill well.
• Before starting the machine with your own hands, securely fasten the grinding wheel to the pulley.
• Primary processing is carried out with a disk with a large abrasive. When you notice a burr on the drill, the disc should be changed to a thinner one.
• Maintain the required angle while sharpening.
• The circle should rotate in only one direction, along the blade.
• Do not allow the torch to overheat; during processing, it should be cooled periodically. Do not dip an overheated tool in cold water, this contributes to the cracking of the metal.

Several options for sharpening drills in videos:

When working with hard workpieces, the working surface of the drill wears out quickly. A dull drill gets very hot and loses its strength. This is due to the "release" of the metal. The tool needs to be sharpened periodically. However, this does not only apply to drills.

Drills are inexpensive devices. In any case, those models that are used in household. However, buying a new tip every time it becomes dull is wasteful.

There are factory-made sharpeners, but this violates the concept of economical use of home tools.

Wood drills practically do not become dull, except that the tool can be “driven” at high speeds in a resinous workpiece. Pobedite tips and stone are not sharpened. It remains to sharpen the drill for metal. Many experienced locksmiths carry out this procedure, without any devices.

However, the accuracy of the work leaves much to be desired, and not every home master's eye is developed so professionally. In any case, minimal mechanization is necessary.

How to make a homemade tool for sharpening drills?

First of all, it is necessary to acquire a means of control. No matter how you sharpen the drill, you need a template to check the accuracy of the work.

Conventional drills for working with ferrous metals have an edge angle of 115-120 degrees. If you have to work with different materials- read the table of angles:

Knowing these values, you can prepare several templates, and in accordance with them, sharpen yourself. In this case, you can use the same drill for different workpieces, you just need to change the angle of the top of the working area.

Work good tool it's convenient, efficient and right! Today we have a useful homemade product for home and garage - a homemade machine for sharpening drills. Correctly sharpening a drill presents some difficulties without experience. And the drill large diameters(somewhere from 6mm) are still amenable to sharpening control and, at the very least, they manage to sharpen after some time. Drills of small diameters, especially in demand by masters of radio and electronic technology, have to be sharpened literally by touch and under a magnifying glass and without the use of mechanization using corundum blocks. By the way, just recently we published an article "" who has not read it, be sure to read it!

Using my deposits of illiquid assets and after reviewing the Internet, I whipped up a simple device that made it possible to sharpen drills from 2.0 to 6.0 mm without much difficulty. Further improvement of the device is possible and is a task for the near future. General form in photos 1 and 2.

As, of course, metal drills are known to have a sharpening angle at the top of 120 degrees. (Less for wood and soft metal). The photo shows a yellow square lying between the sharpener and the fixture, providing this angle, i.e. the drill is located at an angle of 60 gr. to the working end of the abrasive disc. The desired angle of the nape of the drill is provided by the initial inclination of the drill relative to the disk.

The principle of operation of the device is not new and has been repeatedly repeated and published on the net. The difference of this device is the use of the so-called jewelry vices, which are commercially available and inexpensive, to secure the drill. I had these very old ones, remade and mutilated over 30 years of use. Photo taken from the web.

The principle of operation is simple - by turning the handle we push the jaws apart and by reverse rotation we clamp something, for example a drill.

These grips have been revised. The rivets were drilled out and plates were placed on these seats and riveted again with longer rivets. Further it will be clear why this was done.

The drill is clamped in vise so that the cutting edges lie parallel to the jaws.

Along the edges of the riveted plates, coaxial holes are drilled at the same distance from the center and lying on a straight line perpendicular to the axis of the vise (that is, the drill). Through these holes, an axis will pass on which this “rocking chair” will swing alternately when sharpening one and the other edge. With an ideal marking of the rocking chair, equality of the cutting edges will be achieved during sharpening.

The rocking chair is fixed on racks (cases of mortise door latches without insides came up. In turn, the racks are screwed to an oak plate. There are also four support legs in it to adjust the desired height.

Rocking chair with a drill is placed between the racks on the axis, the axis is removable.

Sharpening the first edge (sponges are painted over with a blue marker).

The sharpening of the second rocking face is turned 180 gr. (the shaded side is not visible). Top view of this node.

The finished drill is pictured below. The errors that arose when working “on the knee” and the old worn-out vices did not allow sharpening drills from 1 mm. Shown here is a sharpened 1.5 mm drill bit. At high magnification, the difference in the lengths of the cutting edges is visible (small, but there is)

Do you need the drills to always be sharpened, and you can’t find a special machine during the day with fire even in specialized stores? And make a machine for sharpening drills with your own hands. You can easily assemble a simple structure if you have at least a little experience in working with basic tools.

Homemade machine

The device for sharpening a drill can be of great value in the household, as with the help of this device you can independently sharpen drills of any diameter and type. In addition to the manufacture of a special unit, you will need an electric motor with a grindstone.

Main materials:

1. Metal plate with holes - 1 pc.;
2. Bolt or stud 70x15 mm long;
3. Set of washers;
4. Corner - 30x30 or 40x40;
5. Plates - 3-4 mm thick;
6. Cotter pin - 30x1.5 mm;
7. Clamps.

In addition to materials, you will need tools for their machining and connections, in particular electric welding and grinder.

Tools:

1. Electric welding.
2. Drill.
3. Bulgarian.
4. Hammer with percussion tips.
5. Special clips 2 pcs.
6. Spanners.
7. Pliers.

Manufacturing process:

1. Making the mounting plate

The mounting plate is made of a metal lining with holes about 3-4 mm thick. On the one hand, the part is cut off by 3 centimeters, while during cutting it is required to save the finished hole. The cut off part will be needed for the manufacture of the next part of the grinding device, and a large element for lining during the installation of the product on the table.

2. Corner for fixing the drill

The element is designed to fix the drill during sharpening. It is made by cutting off a part of a regular corner 30x30 or 40x40. The total length varies between 60-90 mm, while the extreme part is cut at an angle of 60 degrees to give the sharpened plane the desired level.

3. Fixing bracket

The cut off part with a hole from the plate is connected to another metal plate, while the elements are superimposed on each other and welded to the corner by electric welding. For welding, a mounting cutout should be cut on the plates in order to butt-fit the parts and scald them.

In the connected parts, a hole is drilled along the diameter of the bolt or stud, and the parts themselves are carefully scalded on all sides to stiffen.

4. Bolt welding

A bolt or stud is designed to fix the corner. The element is welded at an angle of 75 degrees to the main plate. During scalding, the lower plane should be taken into account, if necessary, remove the slag in order to prevent the product from being skewed.

5. Fastening the washer to the bolt

The washer on the bolt is installed at a level of 25 mm from the upper extreme part. The approximate diameter is 30 mm. The element is welded using electric welding in the desired design position, observing all levels along the plane.

6. Hole in the stud

In the absence of a hole for installing a cotter pin in a bolt (stud), it is required to make it using a drill and a drill of the required diameter. Due to this technical element, the fixing angle will be fastened. The diameter may be different, but the main condition is reliable fixation.

7. Drill stop

It is made of a metal bar and a special vise clamp. The rod is welded to the fixing angle from below. The clamping mechanism is mounted on a bar, while on the device a special bowl-stop for the drill should be equipped from the corner.

The system is mounted on a grinding table and fixed with additional clamps.

Video: how to make a tool for sharpening drills.

Drill grinder

This method is available to anyone. For this you will need a drill. Perhaps not immediately from the store counter, but already obsolete and not used by you. She will act as an engine.

It must be fixed on the bed, insert a sleeve or a grinding wheel ready for installation or a universal fine-grained disk into the chuck. Everything. Turning on the drill, you get a rotating abrasive, which is a pleasure to sharpen the drill.

A very simple sharpening solution. However, do not forget about the devices for sharpening the drill, which fixes the element to be sharpened relative to the sharpener.