How to glue a pvc edge at home. Edging PVC edges with hot melt glue using a hair dryer: an affordable option for a home craftsman. Countertop materials

Furniture edges are a tape material that protects our lungs from toxic fumes when using interior items made of chipboard, MDF and chipboard. Modern technologies, which are implemented in the manufacture of furniture, allow you to minimize the use of harmful components. However, it is still better to close the ends with a special edge.

Currently, a wide variety of furniture edges are available to the consumer audience. Individual varieties differ according to the material of manufacture, the method of installation and cost. Among other things, each facing agent has its own obvious pros and cons. Let's take a closer look at the edges.

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In addition to imparting aesthetic qualities to furniture, furniture edges allow you to protect the ends of products made of chipboard, MDF, other common materials, from detrimental effects moisture. It is through the ends into the inner layers of wood that insects, microorganisms, fungal spores penetrate, which accelerate the decomposition of materials. Furniture edges make it possible to eliminate the above manifestations.

Applications

Furniture edges are successfully used for processing the following interior items:

• countertops, kitchen and office tables;
• top covers of mobile and side pedestals;
• sides and bottom of cabinets;
• ends of boxes, pedestals.

Melamine edging

Such a self-adhesive furniture edge is a facing material on paper backing... Products in this category are treated with melamine resin impregnations. It is the latter that endow the edges with protective qualities.

Based on the number of layers of paper used in the production, multilayer and single-layer melamine end tapes are distinguished.

If we talk about the advantages of the edges of this category, first of all it is worth noting widest assortment available options. Thanks to this, the consumer gets the opportunity to choose exactly that end tape, the shade and parameters of which most closely match the existing needs.

When gluing furniture, there is no need to use expensive equipment. For installation, it is enough to use an ordinary household iron. Any housewife can cope with such a task.

The disadvantage of melamine tapes is their insignificant thickness (from 4 to 6 mm). Hence the inability of the material to withstand significant mechanical stress. Due to the paper structure, such edges do not effectively protect furniture ends from moisture penetration.

PVC furniture edge

This type of end tape is much more durable and more resistant to all kinds of external influences in comparison with the previous solution. The material is produced in two versions - 2 and 4 mm thick. Thin ribbons are usually used for decorative finishing of ends that remain visible. 4mm edging is applied to hidden surfaces where there is an increased risk of damage.

The installation of PVC edgebands requires the use of special machines. Therefore, the processing of furniture with such tapes is carried out only in the conditions of production workshops.

Advantages of PVC edgebanding:

• durability and wear resistance;
• effective protection of furniture ends from mechanical stress and moisture;
• resistance to acids, alkalis, fats and saline solutions;
• absolute incombustibility.

As for the disadvantages of PVC edges, here we can highlight the lack of the ability to independently process furniture ends in a domestic environment, as well as some difficulties in obtaining perfectly smooth, glossy surfaces.

ABS edge

ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is an extremely durable, highly reliable cladding material that does not contain chlorine. Therefore, the edges made from this base are widely used in the furniture industry due to their safety.

ABS has a more pliable, softer structure than PVC. The material is easy to work with, does not accumulate static electricity, and the cutting process is not hampered by the adhesion of small chips.

Advantages of ABS edges:

• preservation of the original, saturated shade throughout the entire service life;
• the presence of a perfectly smooth surface;
• absence of toxic fumes during processing and heating.

The only drawback of ABS edges is a rather impressive cost in comparison with the same melamine products and PVC facing tapes.

Acrylic edging

What does such a furniture edge look like? A photo of such products indicates their multi-layer structure. The lower part contains decorative trim or a drawing. The top layer is presented in the form Due to this structure, the effect of a volumetric image is created. Exactly because of this reason acrylic products also called 3D edges.

Among the advantages of such products are high level rigidity and resistance to mechanical stress. Acrylic edges successfully protect furniture ends from scratches, bumps and chips. The main disadvantage here is the high price.

Softforming and postforming edging

Considering furniture edges, what are the materials for this purpose, one cannot fail to note the options with surface treatment by softforming and postforming. These solutions allow you to give the ends of furniture, countertops and facades absolute tightness.

In general, there is no significant difference in the characteristics of these materials. The only difference is the lamination capability relief surfaces that have been processed with softforming edges.

How to glue a furniture edge?

The use of melamine edging allows you to independently process furniture ends at home. The material is set on glue, and then fixed by processing with a hot iron. Such a solution is quite acceptable when it is necessary to perform a quick, relatively cheap repair of old furniture.

The work is carried out in several stages:

1. To begin with, any old one is warmed up.In addition to it, you need a knife, a fine fraction, a rag.
2. The edge is trimmed with a margin of a few centimeters. The segment is applied to furniture end, pre-treated with glue, and then warmed up with an iron.
3. After melting the glue, the edging tape is pressed tightly with a rag.
4. As soon as the material is securely fixed to the surface, all excess is cut off. First, the end parts are removed and only after the longitudinal ones.
5. Finally, finishing surfaces with sandpaper.

To ensure the convenience of performing work, it is advisable to find a knife with sharp blade that will not leave burrs. During the cutting process, care must be taken so as not to remove excess.

Using the same iron, it is convenient to clean the surfaces from the remnants of the old edging tape. To do this, it is enough to thoroughly warm up the plane of the device, walk along the end and pry off the unnecessary tape with a spatula or knife.

Eventually

If the main task in the manufacture of furniture is to obtain the highest quality result, it is better to resort to factory edge trimming. When only redecorating old interior items, you can limit yourself to self-pasting surfaces with colored tapes. Fortunately, today there is a wide variety of edges on sale that imitate natural materials and are distinguished by a whole mass of original shades.

When making or repairing furniture, craftsmen have to trim the edge of the product. For this, a special PVC end edge is most often used. Several popular methods for gluing the specified frame to chipboard are described below in this article.

How to mount a self-adhesive PVC edge

The PVC edgeband is sold in two versions. In the first version, a layer of glue is applied to its lower part at the factory. Alternatively, the edging is sold without it, and you have to apply the glue yourself.

If the material has an adhesive layer, it should be warmed up first. After heat treatment, the glue will become sticky and the edge will easily stick into place. This is done with an iron, which must be switched to the "synthetics" mode.

The edge is attached to the end to which it must be glued. In this case, the edge completely overlaps the end face of the workpiece. Then gently, using an iron, the edge is warmed up. But you shouldn't do it directly. Better to iron the product through a layer of newspaper.

It is easy to glue such material. As it heats up, the glue dissolves and as soon as this happens, the iron moves on. The edge itself is well pressed against the workpiece and smoothed. This is done until the edge is glued to the part along its entire length.

Installation of an edge with a construction hair dryer

By the way, you can glue the edge without an iron. Sometimes it is more convenient to use a construction hairdryer. To do this, the edge must be heated with back side where there is a layer of glue. When the glue becomes sticky, the edge is applied in place, pressed and smoothed.

How to glue the PVC edge on the "Moment"

If the product does not have an adhesive layer, you need to take "Moment" and apply it yourself. But before applying glue, you should check the end of the workpiece for quality. There should be no debris, dust and sawdust here. The butt must be clean and sturdy.

The glue is applied to both surfaces at once. That is, to the PVC edge and to the end of the workpiece. In this case, one should not rush. You need to wait until the glue begins to set and only after that the edge can be glued to its place with high quality.

While gluing the frame, it is strongly pressed against the workpiece and smoothed. It will not hurt to roll the edge with a hard roller.

How to remove excess edge

If the edge stuck well the first time, you can proceed to the final stage. If not, the procedure is repeated. Need to apply more glue onto the problem area and press it firmly or roll it with a roller.

How to remove unnecessary things? The fact is that the frame is usually wider than the workpiece itself, so its excess width must be removed. This is done with a regular file by neatly chipping away.

The file is taken with both hands and the plane is pressed against the protruding edge. At the same time, it breaks off and becomes flush with the workpiece. The frame should be pricked towards the workpiece, and not away from it - this way there is less risk that the edge will be damaged. However, if the PVC edge was glued with high quality, it pricks perfectly and this part of the work never causes any particular complications.

Final material grinding

To finish the work on gluing the PVC edge, you need to take a small sandpaper and grind the flaws, if any. Everything! The frame is glued and ready to use.

In this article, we will consider the simplest option - this is gluing a 2 mm edge with pre-applied hot melt glue. You can order such an edge either from the supplier or from the workshop. The addition to its cost will be 2-5 rubles per square meter.

To glue such an edge, we need a technical hair dryer (thermal gun), a milling cutter (preferably an edging), a molding cutter, a sharp knife, a file and a HB glove.

We fix the part vertically or horizontally - as you prefer (it is advisable to fix it with clamps).

First, warm up the tip (about 5 cm) of the edge well so that the glue melts and the edge itself becomes soft.

We apply the edge and, warming up the glue with a stream of air, together with the end of the part, smooth the edge with a gloved hand. Warm up a section of about 10 cm long, put the hair dryer aside and iron the section more carefully, and so on every time. The main thing here is not to overheat the edge (the overheated edge bends easily - just by itself - and in this case, the places of bends in the form of waves will remain visible).

We look at the glue seam again, warm up the non-glued places with a hairdryer again (and it is necessary to warm it from the front side, warming up the entire edge) and smooth it until it fits completely.

Moving on to cutting off the overhangs. if you have edge router, then everything is fine, if only a universal manual one, then it will require revision, tk. do not put it on the edge of the workpiece - the overhang interferes.

I screwed a piece of chipboard onto the sole, which made it possible to raise the sole on one side.

Then, of course, I made myself a normal edge cutter - that's what I will use in the lesson.

Practice scrapping first to fine-tune the cutter cut, otherwise you risk damaging your laminate. Like this, for example:

A milling cutter with a molding copy milling cutter (radius of rounding 3 mm), carefully, without swaying, move along the face of the workpiece, cutting off excess edges.

We turn it over to the other side and repeat all the manipulations for smoothing the jambs and cutting off the overhangs.

We cut off the remains from the ends as follows: we carry out with pressure sharp knife along the edge, forming a scratch. We lay the workpiece on the edge of the table along the scratch line, and then break it off with a downward movement.

Or we saw off a piece from the end hacksaw blade(the main thing here is not to scratch the adjacent edge, which is perpendicular to the sawn off).

We clean up irregularities and roughness with a file.

You should end up with something similar. For clarity, a straight (short) piece of the edge was glued on the machine, and a long one (which covers the bend) - by hand. The difference is almost invisible.

Today we will analyze a more professional technique for gluing the end decorative edge... This is a hot melt glue with a hair dryer. Naturally, not possessing professional equipment, we will disassemble in an amateur manner, accessible to any garage master.

For work, we need a 2 mm PVC edge with hot glue applied to it - it is applied with a special roller in the form of a mesh.

It can be purchased at furniture stores footage. If the store does not sell an edge with an applied adhesive layer, then it can be applied in furniture shops for an additional fee (as a rule, it does not exceed 5 rubles per running meter).

• In addition to the edge itself, we need a thermal gun (aka an industrial hair dryer),
• as well as an edge milling cutter with a molding shaped milling cutter with a ball bearing installed in it.
• Additional elements are a cloth glove (one is enough) and a felt block.

Let's move on to considering the technique itself. It is better to set the hair dryer to medium values ​​(about 300-400 degrees Celsius).

We fix the workpiece on the workbench (horizontally if it is large and vertically in the clamp if it is small). First, warm up the end of the edge band - it should soften a little and acquire elasticity.

While the glue has not hardened, we apply the heated edge to the end of the workpiece. Press the attached edge with a felt block tightly to the part for 10-20 seconds until the glue cools.

Then, directing the flow of hot air into the gap between the part and the edge band, we warm up the last one, by 10-15 centimeters in length,

after which we put aside the hairdryer, take a bar and roll the heated tape with sliding movements.

This manipulation is repeated over and over again. In this case, it is not worth overheating the edge (it should not acquire pronounced plastic properties). If only to a minimal extent - the edge begins to reach towards the workpiece - then it’s enough to warm up, you need to press it. This moment comes with experience.

It is important not only not to overheat, but also not to underheat. In the first case, the edge will acquire excessive plasticity and can move in waves. In the second case, it simply does not stick.

Now we move on to the next stage, which is rather difficult at first, - this is the processing or pasting of the corner radius (and the outer one is easier to glue than the inner one). I described, >>.

In this case, the edge must be just overheated so that it can be easily molded along the profile to be pasted.

After warming up, when the edge has softened, quickly press the edge to the surface, trying to come along the entire corner.

At first, it may not work, that is, you must first practice.

After you have glued the entire edge tape, we proceed to remove excess, that is, overhangs. From the ends, you can cut it off with a pruner or simply break it off, having previously scratched it with a sharp object (I usually use 1 method).

The overhangs on the edges are removed with a special edge router.

It is quite problematic to do this manually, due to the large thickness of the edge. The cutter cuts off the excess while at the same time rounding off the remaining edge.

Excess glue, which is often not removed with a cutter, can be scraped off with a simple metal ruler.

Often, after removing the overhangs, prominent places of "non-gluing".

Personally, I usually get them at the corners. How to deal with them? Again, we take up the hair dryer and warm up the non-glued area from the outside, trying to blow a stream of air into the slot.

Warm up for 5-6 seconds, put the hair dryer aside and press the area tightly with a felt bar to the surface of the part for 20-30 seconds.

This is usually enough to glue the edge and remove the gap.

Now all that remains is to polish the milled edge, which has a rough structure.

To do this, we make several vigorous movements along the cut edge of the edge.

At the same time, the felt heats up a little, melts the PVC, which smooths out all the irregularities.

And photo finished work(this will be a table top with a rounded corner).

This technique is used even in small professional workshops when processing radius parts, because large stationary automatic edging machines, as a rule, do not have the ability to stick the edge on the curvatures, and not everyone considers it profitable to purchase small specialized units (at least in a furniture workshop, with with whom I cooperate, this is exactly the case).