Self-leveling floors - features and benefits. Method of pouring polymer floors, consumer reviews and prices for materials How to fill polymer floors in large areas

When deciding on the arrangement of a self-leveling polymer floor, the owner must be aware that the work performed must be of a high quality level and last as long as possible. Therefore, in the future, we will focus specifically on modern methods of obtaining self-leveling floors. The technology discussed below is not the most affordable and easy.

Self-leveling polymer 3D-floors are currently recommended as a topcoat. It will not only give the floor originality and originality, but will also make such a coating an equal component of the interior.

The essence of 3D floors is that thanks to the decorative component based on high-strength polyurethane, such floors allow you to create a quasi-three-dimensional image. Such floors are made in two stages: first, polymer filling is performed in the usual way, and then, when it is ready, the topcoat is applied. Since transparent polymers are used, the resulting image will have a certain depth.

The aesthetic level of such floors is very high, which allows you to create real architectural compositions, even using components such as colored sand or marble chips.

Naturally, the implementation of this type of self-leveling floor will have its own nuances, which will be discussed below. In the meantime, let's look at the steps required to create the main polymer coating.

Preparatory activities

The room intended for pouring must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and debris, and all unnecessary items (for example, baseboards) must be removed from it.

Next, you should prepare the materials and tools necessary for work.... In particular, it is advisable to use a vacuum cleaner to remove debris, and to remove old paint residues, traces of glue, etc. - a grinder. By the way, the quality and durability of the floor to be laid directly depends on the thoroughness of cleaning.

It is very important what material the cover is made of. For example, if a wooden base is to be poured, then for better adhesion of the polymer to the surface, the wooden floor must first be sanded, opened all cracks found, and then degreased with special compounds. Degreasing is most often used with conventional organic solvents - acetone, gasoline or white spirit. But for the subsequent polymer filling, it is worth using more effective compositions.

If there are no problems with the disposal of the residues of the degreasing solution, then you can use an alkaline KM solution or simply add surfactants to the composition. Special degreasing wood flooring compounds are also sold (for example, from the Mellerud trademark) - in this case, you can protect yourself from possible fungal formation.

Next, you should evaluate the moisture content of the floor. It should not be more than 10%, otherwise it will be impossible to fill such a coating with a high quality polymer. At the last stage, it is necessary to seal the cracks with special building mixtures.

The preparation of the concrete floor for pouring is performed in a specific sequence.

Assessment of the relative humidity of concrete

It should not exceed 4%, otherwise the coating should be dried. The simplest method for assessing the suitability of a concrete floor for pouring according to its moisture condition is to lay a regular rubber mat on it, which should be pressed firmly on top. If after a day the concrete coating has not changed its color, then its humidity is within acceptable limits.

Checking the strength characteristics of concrete (if the laying was carried out recently)

The compressive strength must be at least 20 MPa, and the peel strength must be at least 1.5 MPa. You can also perform such a check with improvised means. This requires a chisel and a hammer. Having installed the chisel perpendicular to the concrete surface, it is necessary to apply several hammer blows on it with an average force - if the marks on the concrete are barely noticeable, and the concrete after the impact has not crumbled, then its quality meets the requirements;

Determination of the presence of a waterproofing layer

If it is not there, then the work on the arrangement of the self-leveling polymer floor will have to be stopped, since over time the process of peeling of the coating will begin. This circumstance is especially important for self-leveling floors, equipped in rooms with high humidity, for example, in bathrooms. In case of poor-quality waterproofing, the resulting fumes will penetrate through the capillaries in the concrete to the inner surface of the polymer floor and cause its destruction.

All other preparatory operations on a concrete base do not differ from those on a wooden base.

If it is supposed to pour a polymer floor over ceramic tiles, then it should be checked for possible voidness (it can appear when the glue used for gluing the tiles dries out). Tiles lagging behind the surface are removed, and the resulting voids are putty. Next, the surface is degreased.

Priming the surface before pouring

The greatest danger when making self-leveling floors is air bubbles, which can form in the thickness of the polymer during pouring. In addition, the primer provides better polymer spreading over the surface to be poured. This is very important because the setting process is extremely fast.

The wooden surface should be primed in two or even three layers, which will ensure the complete closure of the pores. Here it is most advisable to use primer mixtures with a high viscosity, for example, from the brands Litonet Pro, Knauf, etc.

For concrete surfaces, a two-component epoxy composition is suitable, which does not contain mineral components that contribute to the formation of bubbles. The primer is carried out in two stages, and the secondary primer is made only after the first layer has completely dried.

It should be recalled that the primer formulations are very toxic, so the room must be constantly ventilated. At the same time, an excessive decrease in temperature should not be allowed, since at + 15 ° C and below, the effectiveness of adhesion of the primer mixture to the base decreases. After complete drying, the primed surface should "rest" for about a day.

An integral part of the preparatory work is the installation of a thermal compensation joint around the entire perimeter of the room. To do this, you can use regular hardwood slats. The presence of such seams will protect against possible deformation of the finished coating in the event of significant temperature differences.

How to prepare components for pouring

Poor-quality casting will hopelessly ruin the coating, so this stage should be taken with the utmost seriousness. To mix the components, you will need a low-speed electric drill with a wide paddle-shaped nozzle. Even better, a building mixer is available. The quality of the self-leveling floor decisively depends on the speed of the mixing process, since the finished composition must be used (that is, poured over the surface) as quickly as possible.

In the process of mixing the components, an exothermic reaction occurs, as a result of which the temperature of the mixture rises. In order that the polymerization of the components does not occur too quickly, the container in which the mixing is performed is placed in another one filled with cold water. As a result, the temperature of the finished mixture will not rise as quickly.

For the same reasons indoor humidity should not exceed 80%... At higher humidity, condensation occurs on the surface of the poured polymer, as a result of which the quality of the pour will decrease, and the setting time, on the contrary, will increase.

In the process of mixing the working mixture, it is necessary to quickly check the mixing quality. Routine visual inspection (for lumps, for example) may not be enough. Experts recommend checking the polymer-containing mixture for readiness for pouring as follows:

a plastic ring with a diameter of 50 mm and more and a height of 30 mm (for example, a cap from a bottle with an air freshener is suitable) is placed on a perfectly flat and smooth surface. It could be a piece of thick glass;
the stirred mixture is poured into the ring, after which the ring will rise, and the mixture in the middle will pour out onto the glass surface;
if the mixture spreads evenly, with a “spot” diameter of 18-20 mm, then it is ready for use. Smaller spot diameters will create a mixture that is too thick and will be difficult, if not impossible, to smooth out afterwards. With a larger diameter, the mixture turns out to be more liquid, and the components initial for pouring should be added to it.

How to fill the floor

It is better to start the process from the wall, which is as far as possible from the front door. The filling is carried out as uniform stripes as possible, parallel to the wall of the room. Particularly problematic areas - between adjacent strips - should be smoothed out immediately using a wide trowel.

It is important to keep the minimum difference in thickness between adjacent strips. This will help a needle roller, rolling which on the surface of the self-leveling floor, achieve its uniform thickness. At the same time, the quality of the filling is improved by removing possible air bubbles.

The final pouring time is determined by the volume of the prepared mixture, but in most cases it should not exceed one hour. For the proper quality of the filling, the interval between the laying of adjacent polymer strips is also important - it should be no more than 10 minutes. After the end of the pouring, the surface must be covered with plastic wrap. It will prevent dust and dirt from falling on an incompletely solidified surface, and will also contribute to a more uniform solidification of the polymer.

3D decorative coating

The decorative layer can be formed in two ways - either by a picture with the desired image, or by a pattern directly performed on the coating. For the second option, acrylic paints are required, which do not deteriorate under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. The first way is cheaper, because now you can find a sufficient number of vending drawings, which can then be obtained by printing on a plotter, using banner fabric as a basis. To increase durability, the fabric should be covered with a thermal protective vinyl film.

The image should be slightly larger than required, since it is always easier to cut a piece of a picture than to glue it onto a self-leveling floor - this is ugly and inconvenient.

To connect the 3D image with the base layer, it should be pre-primed using the same composition as for the filling, but diluted with any organic solvent to half the concentration. The primer will cure within 20-24 hours.

The printed image is glued to a primer and rolled using a dry roller. At this time, it is possible to move on the surface of the coating only in shoes with spikes on the sole, otherwise the coating will be damaged! The thickness of the transparent polymer coating should be within 3-4 mm (the greater the thickness, the brighter the effect of the 3D coating).

The preparation and application of the clear resin to cover the banner fabric is the same as for the base fill. Full polymerization will take place in 20-30 minutes, after which, to ensure greater durability, the surface is covered with a layer of transparent varnish.

Video - Self-leveling polymer floors with your own hands

Self-leveling polymer floors have now become a promising and fashionable type of floor covering and are increasingly being arranged in apartments (houses). Because they very well combine many of the requirements for flooring. Their qualities such as durability, hygiene, resistance to mechanical and chemical damage, the ability to decorate, as well as their electrophysical properties push polymer floors to the first positions. In addition, this floor can be of any color, thereby giving a flight of imagination for design.

Self-leveling polymer floors

And what is important for a home craftsman, you can make such a floor yourself. You just need to have no more experience in carrying out repair work in your apartment, a set of tools and devices. And before starting the floor installation, carefully study the instructions that are attached to the set of materials for self-leveling floor... Scrupulously observe the proportions when mixing the components, observe the time ranges, strictly observe the temperature and humidity recommended in the instructions, so as not to disrupt the technological cycle and not let all the work down the drain. If you are not afraid of such conditions, then you can get to work.

The process of installing polymer floors is carried out in stages:

- preparation of the necessary materials, tools, devices, overalls and protective equipment;
- preparation of the sub-floor;
- treatment of the base of the floor with a primer;
- application of the main layer of the polymer floor;
- application of the top (finishing) layer.

If this is your first time taking on this work, then it is best to start installing a polymer floor with a bath. Because there is usually a small floor area and, in case of some flaws, they will not be so noticeable, but after gaining experience, you can continue in other rooms of your apartment.

Preparation of materials and tools.

Once on the building materials market, you will see a fairly large selection of materials for the device. self-leveling polymer floor... They differ in their characteristics and properties. Consult with the seller to select the right ones specifically for your case, depending on the quality of the base of your future floor, its evenness and humidity.

Self-leveling floor tools

Of the tools you will need: an electric drill with a stirring attachment, it’s nice to have a surface grinder, a vacuum cleaner, a regular paint roller, a needle roller, spatulas, ordinary and notched, special needle paint mortars for moving on a wet polymer floor, and of course personal protective equipment. Provide good illumination of the floor surface while working.

Preparation of the base of the self-leveling floor.

If you are installing a resin floor in your bathroom without removing the old floor tiles, you still need to prepare the floor. To make jointing, grinding, cleaning all seams and cracks, check its horizontality. If the floor deviates from the horizon, you will have to make a screed to level it. After finishing the preparation of the base, it is necessary to remove all dust in the room with a vacuum cleaner and cover the cracks with putty.

Treatment of the base of the self-leveling floor with a primer.

The primer is a simple but very important detail and must be done with great responsibility. The primer is made with an ordinary paint roller in two layers with drying of each layer for at least a day. To ensure better adhesion of the polymer floor to the base, the freshly laid primer is sprinkled with clean quartz sand. The quality of the completed primer is determined visually after its final drying by the gloss and saturation of the surface where it is applied.

Application of the main layer of polymer self-leveling floor.

Polymeric self-leveling floors are subdivided into several systems, and in each there are differences in the technology of applying the main floor layer. The main ones are: paint, self-leveling and high filling.

Painted polymer floors

The easiest system to manufacture is the paint system.... It is a thin layer system about one millimeter thick and can be applied to both new concrete and old existing flooring. Polyurethane paint systems are most commonly used, and it is recommended to apply up to 150 g / m2 on each floor layer. The floor arranged according to this system is relatively inexpensive, but due to its small thickness it is not durable and requires good preparation of the base.

Self-leveling system

Self-leveling system and is the so-called self-leveling floor, their thickness reaches 5 mm. Self-leveling coatings are available in many formulations. Such compositions are prepared from two components right before use and poured onto a prepared substrate.

Then they are evenly distributed over the surface of the future floor using a notched trowel. The hardening of the polymer mixture begins in 15 minutes, so you need to hurry to have time to level the material and roll it with a needle roller in different directions to remove

air bubbles and its even distribution over the floor surface. In this case, it is not necessary to remove the roller from the liquid material until the end of rolling.

If you want to move on a freshly poured floor, then special paint mortar with needle soles.

Highly filled systems, their thickness is about 10 mm, the most complicated in terms of technology and labor intensity of work, and therefore require highly qualified performers. They hide all defects in the subfloor.

Highly filled systems

Application of the top (finishing) layer.

At the final stage of the device of a polymer self-leveling floor, a so-called finishing layer is applied over the base layer to make the floor surface more resistant to various influences and improve its appearance. As such a layer, various varnishes are used that are applied with a roller. After the end of the work, access to the room stops until the floor is completely dry.

Video instructions for installing a polymer bulk floor.

A polymeric self-leveling floor is a finishing floor covering consisting of polymeric materials. In other words, it is a seamless polymer membrane that is applied to a screed or cleaned concrete slab. Such a polymer self-leveling floor has increased wear resistance and at the same time protects concrete well from destruction. This floor covering is a popular novelty in modern construction, which has already earned considerable prestige.
Self-leveling floor - an ideal replacement for the usual parquet, tiles, linoleum or laminate

The color palette of a self-leveling self-leveling floor can be completely varied. In the catalogs you will find 10 - 15 standard colors that a polymer self-leveling floor can have, but in reality you can get exactly the color you need. This is achieved by the fact that various organic dyes are simply added to the building mixture.

Self-leveling floor application

in apartments, residential buildings
in production facilities
in public, commercial establishments (parking lots, shopping centers, clubs, offices, restaurants, etc.)
in rooms with food industry
for sports facilities, stadiums

Specialized polymer coatings are used depending on the scope and conditions of use.

Self-leveling floors are made of high-quality building materials that are extremely convenient and easy to prepare and equip

We are ready to make three types of self-leveling floors for you:

glossy (creates a feeling of water on the surface)
semi-matte (slightly dimmer glossy)
matte (practically non-reflective)

Options for the self-leveling floor:

Self-leveling floor type No. 3 is an author's design self-leveling floor, has a thickness of the total coating from 3 mm and includes the following types of components:

The first component: the Europoll primer is applied to the prepared base, followed by the addition of dry quartz sand (0.3 - 0.8 mm fraction).
The second layer is the base layer (Evropoll EP-Base).
The third layer is decorative. This layer can be filled with various decorative elements, fabrics with any images, self-adhesive vinyl films.
The fourth layer is the finishing element (Europoll NEW Finish).

Self-leveling floor type No. 5 is a designer polymer self-leveling floor with a total coating thickness of three millimeters and including the following components:

The first component: Europoll primer is applied to the prepared concrete base, followed by sanding with quartz sand (0.3 - 0.8 mm).
The second layer is the fundamental base element (Evropoll EP-Base).
The third layer is designer (Evropoll Ral -Base).

Floor type No. 8 is a stone carpet (smoothed pebble / compacted), has a coating thickness of 6-8 mm, includes the following types of components:

First layer: Evropoll primer is applied to the prepared substrate, followed by the addition of quartz dry sand (0.3 - 0.8 mm fraction).
The second layer is the foundational base (Evropoll EP-Base).
The third layer is sealing (Evropoll NEW Finish).
The fourth component is the finishing one (Europoll NEW Finish).

Polyurethane or epoxy flooring?

To figure out what kind of coverage you need, you need to compare their positive and negative characteristics.

Epoxy self-leveling floor contains epoxy resins at the heart of its composition. It is characterized by high strength, rigidity, hardness and has the following features:

Polyurethane self-leveling floor it is characterized by elasticity, flexibility and shock resistance. Has the following features:

resistant to constant mechanical stress
has increased wear resistance
not afraid of ultraviolet rays (does not lose its color, does not fade)
made exclusively in two component composition, which, after mixing, begins to harden quickly (this dictates the accuracy and efficiency of work)
applied to the surface only at a positive temperature (at least + 5 degrees)
does not emit odor when applied
as a minus - it penetrates well into the pores of the concrete surface

endowed with high stretching rates
resistant to prolonged vibrations, mechanical stress
with direct exposure to ultraviolet radiation, a slight yellowish tint may form on the surface
can be one-component and two-component
impregnation depth on concrete is from 2 mm
hardens slowly (no need for quick application to the surface)
when applying it is necessary to use protective respirators, as harmful vapors are emitted
the floor is applied at a positive temperature

Features of the polymer self-leveling floor

High wear resistance to abrasion, that is, such a floor is not susceptible to the effects of various grains of sand, dust
The elasticity of the coating, allowing the floor to withstand significant temperature fluctuations
Resistant to vibration, possible shock. Self-leveling floors will perfectly cope with all physical activity and at the same time will not lose their original decorative effect
Durability and reliability. If you choose the right type of self-leveling coating and lay it according to all the rules, then the floor can last more than 20 years.
Floor seamless - provides hollow protection and moisture resistance of the concrete base
Resistant to corrosive chemicals
Hygiene (does not contribute to the development of pathogenic microflora)
Environmental friendliness (does not emit harmful chemical compounds into the air)
Easy to clean, suitable for machine cleaning using active cleaning agents
Attractive appearance, variety of colors and aesthetics (thanks to the use of decorative materials)
Fire safety (in case of a possible fire in the room, the floor has moderate toxicity and low flammability)
The floor ensures that there are no sparks, which makes it possible to install it where work with explosive substances is carried out
Maintainability - allows you to fully or partially restore the coating
Quick and easy to fit (work can take 1 - 4 days)
Provides a perfectly flat surface

Self-leveling floor formation technology

1) Preparatory stage - leveling and preparation of the base

Any self-leveling floor requires a perfectly flat concrete floor surface. Horizontal deviations should not exceed 2 mm. If possible, the base should be made of solid concrete (minimum M200) or sand concrete

The concrete base must be completely dry and must not have any contamination on the surface (various greases, oil stains, any previously applied old coatings, etc.). All dirt is removed by milling, grinding

If the leveling of the surface is not effective, then a new screed must be made.

2) Priming the concrete base and sanding with quartz sand

The prepared soil is poured over the surface of the base and evenly distributed with a roller. If the concrete base does not uniformly absorb the soil, then after the first layer, highly absorbent areas are additionally primed. After the first layer of primer has polymerized, a second protective layer is applied, at the moment of application of which dry quartz sand is evenly applied on top (fractions 0.3 - 0.6 mm)

3) Preparation, application of the finishing layer

For the manufacture of a self-leveling self-leveling floor, a specialized dry mixture or two dry components are diluted in a certain amount of cold water (if there are two components, then the first is first diluted, and then the second is gradually poured in). The entire composition is continuously stirred with an electric mixer for two to three minutes (direct and reverse rotation is activated). As a result, a homogeneous, fluid mass without lumps should form, which must be calmly settled for two to three minutes in order for the air entrained by stirring to escape. After that, the mixture is evenly distributed over the surface and wait for its complete hardening.

The thickness of the general floor covering should vary from 3 to 8 mm, depending on the selected type of self-leveling floor

The final step, but not necessary, can be the application of a protective polyurethane varnish, which can accentuate the surface or make it matte, removing light reflections

Distinctive properties of decorative self-leveling floor

Installation of a decorative self-leveling floor is carried out with the help of a master, designer and decorative artist. The embodiment of the design idea is a fundamental property in this type of coating. The floor should blend perfectly into the interior of the room. It can contain various special effects. The thickness of the coating in this case can be up to several centimeters.

Decorating options and ways to change the shade of the self-leveling floor:

Adding chips

And other wood materials on a solid base, metal, after applying a special primer.

In the article we will talk about how to make self-leveling polymer floors with your own hands in an apartment, as well as in a garage.

Types of polymer bases

The synthetic coating used in homes, apartments and offices is based on one of the polymers.

Epoxy resin - together with additives creates a durable, abrasion and chemical resistant coating.

The smooth, resilient floor is able to withstand any deformation.

Methyl methacrylate floors are created by mixing acrylic resins and hardeners. They are highly UV and moisture resistant, and unique color combinations are created with the help of dyes. The floor hardens in 2 hours and has a lifespan of up to 40 years. With all the positive characteristics, this type of self-leveling floor is rarely used, the reason for this is the high cost and harmful fumes arising during the pouring process.

Features and Benefits:

Hygiene and ease of maintenance.
Resistance to mechanical stress.
Seamless technology of filling.
The ability to make polymer floors yourself.
Variety of colors.
Immunity to chemicals.
The high curing speed of the self-leveling floor reduces the repair time.
Durability of use.

Preparation of the base

The main requirements for the preparation of the base are the correction of defects and the cleaning of the surface. If there is an old coating, it must be completely removed. The entire sub-floor area is thoroughly cleaned of debris and dust (it is worth using a vacuum cleaner). After cleaning, the existing defects become clearly visible. The existing cracks and cracks are putty, the protrusions go astray. The best way to treat the surface is to use a grinder. If the polymer floor has to be poured onto ceramic tiles, its surface is deprived of smoothness with sandpaper or sandpaper.

It is necessary to measure the horizontal level of the base: if its difference does not exceed 4 mm, then you can start making a polymer floor. With significant fluctuations in level, the surface will have to be leveled with a sand-cement screed and postponed further work until it dries.

In the overwhelming majority of cases, a poorly prepared base is to blame for a poor-quality filling of a self-leveling floor, which caused delamination.

After the screed has dried, a thorough primer is required, which increases the adhesion between the base and the self-leveling floor, and also reduces the absorption of the polymer mixture, and, therefore, the consumption of the expensive composition. It is better to apply the primer in two layers, taking a break between them for at least 4 hours. The composition is applied with a roller. To prevent the liquid mixture of the self-leveling floor from leaking near the wall, this area is glued with a damper tape. Also, wooden slats are installed along the perimeter of the room, which will save space for the expansion joint.

Preparation of the solution

For work you will need:

Drill with attachment.
Wide spatula.
Roller with a needle insert on a long handle.
Large bucket.

It's time to prepare the working solution. This process is described in the instructions on the packaging, in order to obtain an excellent result, the manufacturer's recommendations should be strictly followed. To create a polymer floor, you will need two components, one of which is a hardener. Mixing takes place in a large container. Heat is generated during the reaction, so it is recommended to lower the mixing container in advance into a container with cold water in order to slow down the reaction somewhat.

Novice craftsmen can mix the composition in a bucket by filling in two components in turn. A nozzle with spatulas is selected for the drill, and during operation, a low speed of the mixer is used. The mixing process takes about two minutes.

Mounting

The floor must be poured at a temperature not lower than + 10 ° C, at a lower temperature, chemical processes will slow down, and the polymer will not spread well over the surface of the base. High temperatures will cause the components to cure too quickly and will not allow a good casting performance.

During the curing process, the floor should not be exposed to drafts and direct sunlight. The top layer of the polymer coating must not dry out before the rest of the mass, otherwise cracks will appear.

The liquid polymer is poured into a corner distant from the entrance and is helped to spread over the surface with a wooden screed. The work is carried out in strips, without stopping, the composition quickly hardens in the container. It is good to involve an assistant in this process, because it will be difficult for one person without experience to do everything. In the process of pouring, the solution is rolled with a needle roller, which removes air bubbles. The work ends at the entrance to the room. Walking on a fresh train is not worth it, otherwise footprints will remain.

After the composition has dried (the process, depending on the polymer, takes several hours or days), the wooden planks are removed around the perimeter, and the seams are filled with sealant and closed with a plinth. The finishing layer of the self-leveling floor is a coating with two layers of varnish, it gives the surface shine and smoothness, and also increases wear resistance. Using different types of varnish: matte, colorless, glossy or colored - you can achieve the desired effect.

thin-layer polymer paint coatings;
impregnation of concrete;
thick-layer polymer coatings with sand.

The most economical option for a self-leveling floor is polyurethane impregnation. It is one of the most reliable types of garage flooring available. Outwardly it resembles varnished concrete. For a more attractive floor covering, you can apply color markings to it.

The first step is to clean the rough surface. If the floor was wooden, then you need to dismantle it along with the logs. By removing debris and dust from the base, you will be able to assess the quality of the sub-floor. If there are cracks and chips on it, then this is a bad signal indicating the destruction of the material. All damage to the screed must be repaired.

In some cases, before pouring the self-leveling floor in the garage, it is necessary to perform a cement screed. This is advisable if the floor is badly broken, there are large differences in height or in the absence of a screed as such.

If you still need to make a screed, then pay special attention to the arrangement of waterproofing. In addition, to improve the strength characteristics of the garage floor, which is very important in this room, make reinforcement. To do this, you can use a galvanized mesh laid in a mortar.

After the screed has dried or the existing subfloor has been cleaned, it must be primed. For what?

The primer will improve the strength of the base.
So, the adhesion of the screed to the polymer floor is ensured.
Protection of the surface from the appearance / reproduction of microorganisms.

Apply damper tape around the perimeter of the garage, which will serve as a cushioning layer. This is done to the height of the polymer floor pouring.

Now you need to install the beacons / guides. If you have a small garage, then you can use corners, pipes or metal profiles as guides. Place them so that the top edges of the guides are in the same plane. For these purposes, you can use long self-tapping screws. Divide the floor into square / rectangular sections. Screw the self-tapping screws into the tops of the rectangles / squares. To do this, you first need to drill out the tie and insert it into the holes of the dowel. Raise the beacon as needed. Do this with a solution.

Now you should prepare the polymer mixture according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Stir it well. To do this, you can use an electric drill with a special mixer attachment. It is important that the drill runs at low speed, otherwise a lot of air bubbles will form in the mixture. And this will negatively affect the quality of the polymer floor.

The resin is poured quickly because it dries quickly. Therefore, the best method of doing this work is to prepare the mixture based on the rectangle / square set on the beacons - pour it and align it.

At the end of the pouring, you need to roll the mass with a spiked roller. Thus, air trapped in the polymer and excess moisture will be removed. The self-leveling floor can only be used when it is completely dry. The time it takes to do this depends on the temperature in the garage.

You shouldn't artificially dry the floor. When the room is heated, a crust forms on the polymer. In this case, the thickness of the self-leveling floor will remain viscous. As a result, the floor in the garage under the weight of the car will simply sag over time.

Work on the construction of a polymer floor has many complexities and nuances, but it is quite accessible to do it yourself. In compliance with the technology, training videos will help.

Video

The process of pouring a self-leveling floor can be seen in the video below:

Photo

Publication date: 03-04-2015

Polymer floors have recently become very popular due to their extreme ease of application, excellent decorative appearance, long service life and tremendous resistance to almost all types of influences and loads.

Leveling the floor

In their favor can speak such a fact as the practical impossibility of independent dismantling - such a coating will successfully resist almost any type of action on it.

Therefore, such floors are usually mounted either for a very long time or with the expectation that subsequently such a coating can become an excellent, ideally flat base for another type of floor covering.

But is the installation so easy? What is needed for this?

Consider how to apply a polymer self-leveling floor with your own hands using the simplest tools and a prepared mixture, how to make an unusual 3D volumetric floor.

The history of the creation of a decorative polymer floor

Modern self-leveling floors take their history from Italy, this event dates back to 1972. It began with the art of drawing with chalk on asphalt, street artists created incredibly believable volumetric images on a variety of topics.

Such paintings quickly became very popular all over the world, which was used by designers who transferred unusual street art to the surface of residential buildings.

It was decided to combine volumetric images with high-strength polymer floors used for industry. This is how the 3D self-leveling polymer floors were born, which consist of a base base, a pattern and a transparent layer applied on top.

Back to the table of contents

Characteristics of such a coating

Pouring polymer floor

Polymer floors are famous for their extremely high characteristics, which makes them possible to use them for premises with a wide variety of purposes: industrial workshops, warehouses, shopping centers, apartments.

Ease of application, excellent appearance, extremely easy maintenance - such coatings are increasingly spreading today, replacing traditional coatings.

Among the main characteristics are:

wear resistance to friction, mechanical stress, practically any type of impact;
adhesion to the screed, which ensures a long service life, such a coating is almost impossible to remove on its own, usually it is knocked down along with the base;
aesthetic appearance, not affected by time;
environmental friendliness;
ease of care, high hygiene;
high fire resistance;
waterproof, antistatic effect;
tremendous resistance to direct sunlight, ultraviolet radiation, temperature extremes.

In addition, with the help of self-leveling floors on the surface of the base, you can recreate the structure of wood, artistic modeling, natural stone, with inclusions (glitters, coins, pebbles, shells), creating fancy patterns when mixing mixtures of different colors, volumetric 3D floors with drawings, patterns and other decorative elements.

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Main types

Polymer self-leveling floors: scheme

Self-leveling polymer floors are very diverse depending on the materials used in the composition and the method of their application.

The most common are:

epoxy, which are characterized by high strength, good elasticity, are used quite often;
polyurethane, such a self-leveling coating has a long service life, is very resistant to a variety of influences;
self-leveling methyl methacrylate floors are used only for industrial premises, harden very quickly;
polyester ones are the cheapest, but they cannot guarantee an excellent and high-quality effect;
urea-based screeds can be applied by spraying.

In addition, polymer floors are also distinguished by the thickness of their application to the surface of the base:

high-strength for industrial premises, the thickness of this can be up to six millimeters;
average thickness, reach values of one and a half to three millimeters;
thin for residential apartments, have a thickness of one and a half millimeters;
dedusting polymer, which is a simple thin film applied to a concrete base;
coloring self-leveling, giving the surface the required shade, the thickness of such a coating is only one-fifth of a millimeter.

Self-leveling floors are also subdivided into smooth, textured, rough, self-leveling with mineral particles, highly filled with large particles, combined, 3D volumetric, one-component, two-component, three-component.

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Application features

Self-leveling floors in the living room

The technology for applying self-leveling flooring with your own hands is simple and does not cause problems.

It includes preparation of the base (it can be concrete, wood, ceramic tiles, metal), removing dust, debris, dirt, stains from its surface and subsequent priming.

Then the preparation of the mixture for the floor begins, the application of the base layer and the pattern for volumetric floors, pouring and varnishing. All these works can be easily done by hand within a short time.

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Preparation of the base and preparation of the pouring solution

When preparing the base with your own hands, it is necessary not only to completely clean the surface and remove the remnants of the old floor covering, but make sure that there are no cracks, dents and other surface defects, a large slope. For this, a horizontal level is used.

The maximum allowable slope is up to two millimeters, otherwise leveling work must be carried out.

For wood flooring, skirting boards, oil stains, debris are first removed. After that, the base is dedusted. It is recommended to carry out screed installation work before applying the mixture to ensure leveling.

it is impossible to mount the self-leveling floor on newly laid wooden bases;
the thickness of the layer for pouring on wood flooring should not be too thin.

The concrete base is also prepared in a similar way. If the concrete was poured recently, it is necessary to withstand a time of twenty-one days from the moment of its installation.

Ceramic tiles should first be checked for the strength and reliability of the fastening of individual elements, after which the base is degreased, a primer is applied on top of it.

Metal surfaces are also cleaned and degreased, then with the help of a sandblasting machine traces of scale and corrosion are removed from the surface.

The primer and putty make it possible to mask all surface defects that could remain, the cracks are carefully repaired with a gypsum composition with quartz sand. In this case, it is unacceptable to use water-based formulations.

For a simple self-leveling floor, the dry mixture is poured into a large container and thoroughly mixed in the proportions indicated by the manufacturer using a construction mixer for three to five minutes.

For multi-component formulations, the mixing conditions must be strictly observed: often one component is first diluted, and then another is added in certain parts. The mixture must be used within one hour after mixing, otherwise the quality of the floor may deteriorate.