Insulation materials for walls. Thermal insulator: comparison of materials for wall insulation. Features of insulation with expanded polystyrene

Noise insulation of walls in an apartment, modern materials for which today can be found in hardware stores, is becoming more and more relevant. This can be explained simply - fences in multi-storey typical buildings are not able to fully protect the home from external street noise and from sounds coming from neighboring apartments.

Medical scientists It has long been noted that the presence of constant noise has an extremely negative effect on the human psyche, not allowing him to get full relaxation and rest. That is why, unable to withstand the constant sound pressure, many city dwellers, especially those who live in panel houses, are beginning to actively search for a suitable sound-proof material that will meet all the requirements of its application in the condition of apartments.

Almost all modern acoustic materials are made on the same basic foundations as traditional ones. However, they have undergone significant improvements due to recent production technologies.

Today, a very large number of new soundproofing materials are being produced, and it is simply impossible to cover the characteristics of all on the scale of one article. Therefore, attention will be focused on the most effective ones, which are used precisely in the conditions of the apartment.

Thin noise insulation MaxForteSoundPRO

When the area of ​​an apartment or room does not limit the choice of materials, and you can install sound insulation of any thickness, this is convenient. But what if you can't afford to spend precious inches of living space?

In this case, the innovative thin material for sound insulation MaxForte SoundPRO will suit you. It has a thickness of only 12 mm, while its characteristics are able to compete with sound insulation with a thickness of 5 and even 10 cm! MaxForte SoundPRO is the latest material specially designed for noise insulation of residential and industrial premises.

Specialists from the Research Institute of Building Physics and the Department of Acoustics of the Physics Department of Moscow State University took part in the development of the material. In the manufacture of MaxForte SoundPRO, all the important points for the effective operation of the material were taken into account: the optimal density was selected (with a low density, the sound will pass through, with too large - along the "skeleton"), the length of the fibers, their thickness. The sound absorbing layer is calibrated and homogeneous over the entire area. The material is completely non-flammable. The composition does not contain harmful phenol-formaldehyde resins and any adhesives. Therefore, in addition to excellent noise insulation properties, MaxForte SoundPRO is safe for health.

MaxForte SoundPRO gives an increase in noise insulation both from air (loud TV, crying of a child, screams of neighbors), and from impact noises (noise from stomping, grinding of furniture, falling objects). It can be used for soundproofing ceilings, walls and floors, which will give a significant increase of up to 64 dB!

Installation of thin noise insulation is very simple, and not only professionals, but also anyone who has ever held a puncher and screwdriver in his hand can handle it.

MaxForte SoundPRO is mounted on the wall using ordinary plastic dowels, mushrooms, which can be purchased at any hardware store. It is hung on the wall using the joint-to-joint technology, after which it is closed with a layer of gypsum fiber board (gypsum fiber sheet). All seams of the sheets must be glued with a special vibroacoustic non-hardening sealant. After the sound insulation is sewn up with a layer of gypsum plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard). The seams of the sheets of gypsum plasterboard and gypsum plasterboard should be staggered, that is, not coincide.

You can clearly see the installation of the thin soundproofing MaxForte SoundPRO in the video.

Video - How to install thin noise insulation MaxForte SoundPRO

Thin wall soundproofing with panelsSoundGuard EcoSukoIsol

SoundGuard panels EcoZvukoIzol is a unique material for soundproofing walls and ceilings, which allows you to achieve silence in the apartment. and not lose usable area.

SoundGuard EcoZukoIzol panels are made of a durable multi-layer cardboard profile based on the principle of honeycombs filled with heat-treated mineral quartz sand. Quartz filler is used very fine, exactly the same as an hourglass. It is this filler that makes it possible to achieve an impressive panel weight - more than 18 kg per m2, and according to the laws of sound insulation, the heavier the material, the worse it transmits sound (cotton wool transmits sound very well, and for example a brick wall or a steel door is much worse). In addition to its weight, quartz sand, due to its fine fraction, perfectly dampens and absorbs almost all sound frequencies - from air to shock.

How to mount panelsSoundGuard EcoZvukoIsol?

Installation of panels is very simple and almost anyone can handle it. They are attached to the wall using SoundGuard DAP acoustic dowels, which are hammered into holes pre-drilled through the panel in the wall. After that, all seams and joints are coated with sealant and the entire wall is sewn up with drywall.

Mineral noise-absorbing material "Shumanet-BM"

This soundproof a material made from basalt fibers is considered a premium mineral sound absorbing slab. One side of the mat is laminated with a layer of fiberglass, which helps to preserve the integrity of the slab and to keep the internal basalt fibers in one position in order to prevent their small particles from entering the room. This is especially important in cases where the sound-absorbing material will be covered with perforated acoustic panels.

Plates " Shumanet BM "are produced in accordance with the requirements of SNiP 23 — 03-2003 "Protection against noise". They have the following technical and operational characteristics:

Acoustic tests to determine the sound absorption coefficient were carried out in the measurement laboratory of the Moscow Research Institute of Building Physics at the Russian Academy of Architecture and Building Sciences.

Having a low degree moisture absorption, this soundproofing material can be used not only in rooms with normal humidity, but also, for example, in a bathroom. In addition, it is excellent for soundproofing stretch and suspended ceilings, and, of course, walls and multilayer partitions made in the form of a sandwich from plasterboard, plywood, fiberboard and other sheet materials.

Soundproofing walls using "Shumanet BM"

The installation of the slabs of this sound insulator is carried out according to the same principle as for all types of mineral wool. However, one must take into account the fact that the material will be used primarily as sound absorber, and only then it is considered as additional insulation.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

• On the prepared and markings are made to fix the elements of the lathing. Since the width of the mats is 500 mm, and they must stand between the bars, the distance between the guides should be 450 ÷ 480 mm. If mats are purchased in 600 mm width, then, accordingly, the distance between the bars should be 550 ÷ 580 mm.
• Further, the elements of the sheathing themselves are fixed, but at the same time, in order not to weaken the basic qualities of the sound-insulating material, experienced craftsmen advise to follow a number of simple recommendations:

- For the lathing, it is best to use a wooden beam, rather than metal profiles, since metal is a good conductor of sound, it can resonate, and wood has the property of damping sound waves.

- Additionally, in order not to create bridges for the passage of sound, it is recommended to make gaskets between the wall and the lathing bars of a thin sound-insulating material, for example, felt or strips of basalt wool with a thickness of 8 ÷ 10 mm.

- If, nevertheless, a metal profile is chosen for the lathing, then it is better to move it away from the wall with a sound-insulating gasket by 12 ÷ 15 mm.

- In the event that the area soundproof the room is large enough, and it is possible to take out the crate for the sound-absorbing material and sheathing at 100 mm from the wall, then you can use special details - suspensions... They are screwed to the wall through wooden spacers, and the bars are already fixed in them.

Another option is the use of special suspensions, which are designed specifically for noise-absorbing structures. Structurally, such a product already has a special damping layer that effectively dampens vibrations without transferring them to the frame guides.

If guide bars fixed in the above way, then the soundproofing mats are mounted in two layers. The first of them is installed behind the crate elements, close to the wall, and the second - between the guides.

• In the end, upon completion of the installation of the Shumanet BM panels, the walls should look like this:

Further, on top of the mats noise-insulating material is fixed vapor permeable diffuse membrane. Then they move on to the installation of plasterboard or plywood sheets, which, in turn, will become the basis for finishing work. However, it is quite possible to replace this multilayer by fixing directly on the guiding lathing of a wooden decorative lining.

It should be noted that all sound and heat-insulating materials made in mats or rolls are mounted on walls according to the same principle.

Video: the advantages of soundproofing mineral boards " Shumanet»

"Texound" - a new direction in noise insulation technology

"Texound" is not yet as popular as mineral wool or expanded polystyrene, as it is a relatively new sound insulator. The most important advantage of Texound over others soundproof materials is that it practically does not "steal" the usable area of ​​the room, as it has a small thickness.

This sound insulator is used for all surfaces of the room - it is fixed to the ceiling and walls, and also laid on the floor.

It should be noted that some craftsmen use texound in combination with thermal insulation materials, and such a bond only increases the efficiency of its use. But, unfortunately, premises in apartments most often do not have extra space that can be given for a "powerful" multilayer sound and heat-insulating structure. In this regard, a material was developed that is able to protect rooms from unnecessary noise and not reduce the size of the room.

To achieve the desired effect and protect the room from sounds from the outside, it is necessary to cover all surfaces of the room with soundproofing material, otherwise it will be impossible to achieve the desired result.

The Texound was developed in Spain by the specialists of the well-known TEXSA company, and its mass industrial production began there. It is in this country that the largest deposit of the mineral aragonite is located, which is the main raw material.

To be more precise, the basic component is calcium carbonate (CaCO³). Aragonite is very rich in this compound. In addition, calcium carbonate is the main constituent of many calcareous rocks, including chalk, marble, and others.

Harmless polymer compositions are used as binders, and as a result, membranes of high density are obtained, but at the same time, very flexible and elastic, with pronounced visco-elastic qualities, which is extremely important for sound insulation of complex building structures.

Sound insulation of premises with this material is very effective even if canvases are used that have a very small thickness. "Texound" is able to absorb and scatter even sound waves of high intensity, which come not only from the outside, but are also created inside the room, for example, with very loud music.

"Texound" is produced in fabrics (membranes) and goes on sale in rolls packed in polyethylene. It has the following technical and operational characteristics:

In addition, the material has the following advantages:

• "Texound" is resistant to temperature extremes. Its elasticity does not decrease at all even at negative temperatures down to - 20 ° С .
• The material has a pronounced flexibility and plasticity, and this "Texound" is somewhat reminiscent of rubber.

• The material is resistant to moisture and will never become a zone for the spread of mold or mildew, as it has antiseptic properties.
• The operating time of the Texound is not limited.
• "Texound" perfectly combines with other materials, and can be applied in a complex system.

"Texound" is subdivided according to its thickness, size and form of release; it can have additional layers that improve its characteristics. The main brands are presented in the table:

Installation of "texound"

Almost any base is suitable for the installation of this material - concrete, drywall, plastic, wood, metal and others. The main thing is that the surface is well prepared - leveled, cleaned of old coatings, primed and dried.

If there is a well-applied layer of plaster on the wall, then it must be primed, and then the installation can be carried out directly on it.

The work can be done in two ways. In the first of them, only sound-insulating material is used, and in the second, it is used in combination with a heat insulator.

The first option - without additional insulation

• Glue is applied to the prepared surface. For the installation of the Texound, a special assembly glue is used, which is sold in a ready-to-use liquid form, in cans. After coating, it is necessary to wait 15 ÷ 20 minutes for the glue to set.

• Further, the soundproofing material itself is mounted on the glued wall, which must be measured and cut off in advance, and also pre-coated with glue.

• If self-adhesive material is purchased, then installation will be much easier, since you will not need to ley, and you will just need to remove the protective film and attach the material to the wall.
• Further, the sheet of "texound" must be pressed as tightly as possible to the surface, and then additionally walk over it with a roller. This must be done in order to achieve better adhesion to the wall surface over the entire area, without leaving air bubbles.

• Texaund canvases must be overlapped by about 50 mm. Sheets are glued together tightly. This process is carried out using glue "liquid nails" or by heating the material with hot air or a gas burner - the adjacent sheets are welded together. If at least small gaps are left between the canvases during installation, the effectiveness of sound insulation will be significantly reduced.

• If the installation of "Texound" is carried out on the ceiling, then it is glued in small sheets, since the material is quite heavy, and it will simply be impossible to hold a solid sheet from wall to wall.
• After gluing the canvas, if necessary, it is additionally fixed on the wall with fasteners - "fungi", the very ones that are most often used for the installation of expanded polystyrene or mineral wool.

The second option is with the use of thermal insulation

Complex installation is carried out if the wall is needed not only soundproof, but also insulate. If there is such a task, then the work is carried out as follows:

• The lathing frame is fixed to the primed wall along the edges.

• The next step is to immediately glue the Texound onto the entire wall in one version, and in the other, a heat-insulating material is pre-laid. However, the first method shows more high efficiency specifically for sound insulation.
• If the thermal insulation will adjoin the wall, then the texound is fixed first by the “mushrooms”, and then additionally pressed by the strips of metal suspensions.

• To achieve the required space for installing the insulation material, the metal profile of the frame is fixed in suspensions at a distance of 40 ÷ 50 mm from the wall. In this case, it is imperative that each of the profiles be set at the building level, otherwise the frame cladding will not be even.

• The next step is the installation of insulation. The most environmentally friendly of the suitable insulation materials that can be installed independently is considered to be basalt-based mineral wool. If financial allow funds, then you can use the above-described "Shumanet BM", which is not only noise-absorbing but good thermal insulation material.

• It fits snugly between the lathing posts and is pressed against the Texound fixed to the wall.
• Upon completion of the installation of the insulation, the wall should look like this:

• It is advisable to tighten the insulation vapor-permeable diffuse membrane.
• The next step is coming. In some cases plywood or OSB sheets are used for cladding.
• Fastening of sheets to the racks of the lathing is carried out with self-tapping screws, the caps of which are recessed into the cladding material by 1.5 ÷ 2 mm.

• Then the joints and holes from the caps of the self-tapping screws are sealed with putty.
• Further, the surface is primed and putty completely, and after that you can decorate the walls with decorative material.

Drywall is the most convenient leveling material walls

The wall that received soundproofing and insulation protection, it is necessary to prepare for further work - to achieve a flat surface, which will become the basis for finishing materials. As well as - in special publications of our portal.

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Existing texound mounting schemes

Masters use various installation schemes for this sound insulator. Depending on the convenience of the work, the area of ​​the room and the required efficiency of wall insulation from external noise, you can choose any of them. The only drawback of these structures is their thickness, which, even in the best case, will be at least 50 mm.

First option

This structure will have a thickness of 50 mm.

• They begin to mount it by gluing the prepared metal profiles from the side of their adhesion to the wall with a Texound S BAND 50 self-adhesive tape. This must be done in order to avoid the transmission of sound and vibrations from the wall through the metal frame to the room.
• Further, the frame elements are fixed to the wall with dowels, and heat-insulating, sound-absorbing mats are mounted between them.
• Then, soundproofing material is glued to the drywall sheets from the inside. In this case, the Texound 70 is well suited.
• After that. drywall is fixed on the frame racks, and its seams are sealed with putty.

Second option

The thickness of the structure with this option will be 60 mm.

• In this case, a thin heat insulator is first attached to the wall. You can use foil insulation by placing it with a reflective surface towards the room. The insulation should cover the joints of the wall with the floor and ceiling, that is, go on them by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm.
• From above it is produced installation of a metal frame, which just as in the first version of the design, it is attached to the wall.
• Further, insulation mats are placed in the frame, which are closed with plasterboard with "Texound 70" glued to it.

It should be noted here that the heat-insulating material attached to the wall can be replaced with Texound FT 75, which has an additional layer of felt.

The third option

The thickness of the third design option is 70 ÷ 80 mm, since it consists of a larger number of layers.

• The first layer to the wall is installed heat-insulating material.
• The second layer is a sound-absorbing membrane "Texound".
• A crate is mounted on top of it.
• Then insulation mats are installed.
• The last layer on the structure is fixed to sandwich panels, consisting of two sheets of plasterboard, between which the "Texound" is laid.

When purchasing a soundproof material of this type, it is recommended to provide the consultant of the selling company with the characteristics of the material from which the house is built. The sales assistant will help you make the right choice by determining the thickness and the best form of Texound.

Video: using texound for noise insulation in an apartment

Use of foam mats as sound insulation

The most effective material available at the price for soundproofing walls in an apartment is acoustic foam rubber. Due to its porous structure, this material perfectly absorbs and dissipates sound vibrations.

Acoustic foam rubber is able to neutralize two types of noise - sound and vibration waves, that is, it muffles sound and dissipates low frequencies arising from surface vibrations, for example, knocking or "bass" of music.

The material is quite durable and can be mounted both as an independent soundproofing material and in combination with drywall. Foam mats are available in a wide range of sizes and can be embossed or have a flat surface.

Foam rubber is made by pressing polyurethane foam, after which it is cut into standard blocks of 1000 × 2000 mm in size. The thickness of the mats varies from 10 to 120 mm. Domestic material is produced in two or three colors, while imported versions have a more diverse range of colors, including 10 ÷ 12 colors.

Types of material relief

The types of embossed patterns of acoustic foam rubber can be different. The total thickness of the material depends on the depth of the relief, and its noise-absorbing properties.

The main types of reliefs used for the purpose of soundproofing premises are presented in the tables below:

There are other, not so often used acoustic foam elements.

Until recently, acoustic foam rubber was rarely used in apartments, since the material tends to accumulate dust. But in recent years, more and more residents of panel houses are choosing foam rubber to reduce the sound conductivity of the walls. Due to its high sound-absorbing and diffusing qualities, this material is able to make the room almost completely soundproof, provided that it is installed not only on walls, but also on the surface of the ceiling and floor.

It is very important to note that acoustic foam rubber does not at all lose its soundproofing qualities when it is closed with drywall. The main condition for creating such a structure is that the foam mats themselves must be glued directly to the base of the wall, without any lining.

Soundproofing walls with acoustic foam

Installation of foam rubber on the walls is not too difficult, so you can easily do it yourself. In this case, it is worth considering the most acceptable method of soundproofing for the conditions of the apartment, but it should be noted right away that the area of ​​the room will slightly decrease.

Installation work is carried out in the following sequence:

• In order for the foam to stick easily, it is best to prime the surface of the wall and dry it well.
• Next, the mats need to be fixed to the wall. They must fit snugly against its surface, otherwise the sound insulation effect will be partially lost.

• Foam mats can be glued on a wide double-sided assembly tape, "liquid nails" or heated silicone.
• When all the walls are covered with foam mats, you can proceed to the installation of a frame lathing made of metal profiles or wooden beams. The frame guides are fixed at a distance of 50 ÷ 60 mm from the wall.
• The racks are mounted in the recesses of the relief pattern directly to the wall. Holes for fasteners are drilled directly through the foam.
• After fixing the frame of the sheathing, sheets of drywall, plywood, PVC panels or other finishing materials are fixed to the guides. This will not in any way reduce the efficiency of noise absorption of the foam rubber layer, since it will be the first to receive all sound waves coming from the outside, absorb and dissipate them.
• In the same way, the foam rubber is mounted on. A crate is installed directly on it, and then one of the types of suspended ceilings is fixed.
• Logs are laid on the floor on top of acoustic foam rubber, on which a plank or plywood floor is laid. Further, if desired, laminate, linoleum, carpet or other decorative covering can be laid on plywood.

It should be noted that the installation of acoustic mats does not require serious preparatory repair work, and if it is decided to leave the foam panels uncovered, then their installation will generally take no more than one day.

Open material will require frequent cleaning with a powerful vacuum cleaner to prevent large amounts of dust from accumulating inside the porous material. In the event that one of the panels for some reason has moved away from the wall, it can be quickly and without special preparations glued in place.

In addition to the considered soundproof materials, there are others in the assortment of building stores. But today acoustic foam rubber, texound membranes, shumanet slabs and similar noise insulators can be called the most effective and safe for installation in an apartment.

From year to year, prices for energy resources are growing inexorably, and the level of income of the population remains practically the same. Looking at the unaffordable bills for heating a house or apartment, it comes to the understanding that the problem needs to be solved on its own - by warming living quarters.

For this purpose, various types of insulation can be used for the walls of the house from the inside and outside.

Let's take a closer look at the possible options for materials for insulation, their advantages and disadvantages.

It is best to carry out insulation work in the summer, when the air humidity is minimal.

Walls for insulation in the room must be perfectly dry. You can dry them after additional plastering, finishing work to level the surfaces with the help of building hair dryers and heat guns.

Stages of surface insulation:

1. Cleaning the surface from decorative elements - wallpaper, paint.
2. Treatment of walls with antiseptic solutions, priming of the surface with deep penetration into the layers of plaster.
3. In some cases, when installing polystyrene foam and electric heating elements, the walls are pre-leveled using waterproof bathroom plaster.
4. should be carried out in accordance with the instructions prescribed by the manufacturer for this type of material.
5. Installation of a protective partition for applying the final finish, or covering the surface with a construction mesh, it plastering.
6. Creation of a single composition with the overall design of the room.

Insulating the walls inside the house is one of the most effective ways to protect your home from the penetration of cold and the negative effects of condensation, the main thing is to observe the technological sequence of stages. More details about the technology of insulating a home from the inside can be found in

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Modern types of insulation for walls, properties and characteristics:

Tips for insulating walls in an apartment - analysis of common mistakes:

Warming a house, made with the help of not even the most expensive materials, is not a cheap pleasure. Now there are many types of insulation for interior work, which are presented in an extensive price range. Therefore, choosing an inexpensive and high-quality material is not difficult.

A warm house in winter and a comfortable coolness in a hot season, as well as a reduction in utility bills, will show that the insulation of the premises is done well and of high quality.

What material did you use to insulate the walls of the house? What were you guided by when choosing and are you satisfied with the result? Please share this in the comments section. There you can also ask a question on the topic of the article, and we will try to answer it promptly.

First, you need to consider the benefits of high-quality sound insulation. Sound absorbing materials should ideally provide:

• the opportunity to relax and unwind;
• the absence of extraneous sounds that prevent you from concentrating on a specific activity;
• full sleep.

It is impossible to achieve complete 100% noise isolation, and it is also unnecessary. It is enough to reduce extraneous sounds to a level where they do not cause irritation and do not interfere with good rest. Sound insulation materials will perfectly cope with this task.

It is known that noise is sound vibrations of air. They are capable of influencing a person, and most often negatively.

Irritating sounds include:

• loud conversations behind the wall of flatmates;
• sounds of power tools during construction and repair work;
• household appliances activities;
• extraneous noise from the street;
• operation of communication systems;
• many other actions unpleasant for our hearing.

Noise insulation materials, with the help of which it will be possible to provide high-quality sound insulation of walls and partitions in a new building or a long-built residential building, are diverse. These include styrofoam, expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam, mineral wool and cork. You will learn about them in this article.

Polyfoam is a modern product for soundproofing an apartment or house. It is a white foam plastic gas-filled mass.

Its main volume is occupied by gas, the density of which is much lower than the density of the polymer - the main raw material of the product. This is due to the high heat and sound insulation properties of the foam.

Technical characteristics and properties of foam

Polyfoam is produced by both domestic and foreign manufacturers. Knauf Corporation produces it by the non-press method from expanded polystyrene. Each cell consists of dense cells, and each cell contains 98% air and 2% polystyrene.

If you need polystyrene, then as an example you can use products that are made from ecological raw materials. A fire retardant is added to the composition, because this material:

• does not give in to combustion;
• not subject to decay;
• not afraid of exposure to microorganisms;
• has a long service life.

Polyfoam is one of the more demanded for the isolation of partitions in an apartment. First of all, this is due to its physicochemical properties, safety characteristics and operation.

The table below describes the main parameters.

Thanks to modern technologies and equipment, it is now possible to produce polystyrene of various mechanical strength, density, resistance to all kinds of impacts. Products made from it are safe for humans, therefore they are widely used in the food industry, they pack goods and products intended for our nutrition.

Polyfoam is widely used in other industries and has the following advantages:

• resistant to moisture and aging;
• microorganisms are not able to influence it;
• it is easy to work with it, it is cut with a hand saw or knife;
• easily glues with other materials intended for partitions and walls in the apartment or outside the house;
• easy to install.

Polyfoam is a waterproof material, but at the same time it has a high rate of air permeability. The temperature at which it is located is not capable of adversely affecting the properties of the material. For example, at a temperature of 90 degrees Celsius, the foam will not change its properties for an extended period.

Many developers, when choosing materials for noise insulation in a residential area, opt for foam. First of all, it is necessary to note its operational and technical properties:

1. Low thermal conductivity, due to which air is evenly distributed inside the material.
2. Durability. Subject to all operating conditions, the foam will last a long time. Even over time, he is not able to change his properties.
3. Resistance to various destructions - weak acids, alkalis, moisture. It is important that the material is chemically neutral.

Industry produces software GOST 15588-86 the brands of polystyrene given in the table.

And the indicators for physical and mechanical properties must comply with the GOST standards, which are indicated in the table below.

In order to install polystyrene on the wall, use special glue or a dowel with a wide head.

Let's consider the first option. Some professionals prefer cement-based dry mixes, which are distinguished by their durability, reliability and high level of adhesion.

But you can also use aerosol polyurethane types in the work. The laying technology consists of the following stages:

1. Plates are placed on a starting bar, which is fixed along the perimeter of the surface to be treated. This is done using dowels, the pitch is 300-400 mm.
2. The surface must be clean, free from dust and dirt.
3. Dilute the glue. The package contains exact instructions: pour the mixture into cold water and stir with a construction mixer. Then the composition is left for 5 minutes to ripen, and mixed again.
4. Using a spatula, glue is applied to the boards, evenly distributing it around the perimeter and with a few slaps in the middle.
5. The foam is placed on a bar and pressed firmly in those places where the glue is.
6. Care must be taken to ensure that the slab is not skewed. You can control this process using a level. Inaccuracies are corrected by lightly tapping with a hand or a hammer on the plate. But remember to do this through a block of wood so that the foam does not break down.
7. Plates are laid horizontally from below. The next row is already staggered, so that a ligation of the joints is formed.
8. The seams are filled with glue, the excess is removed with a spatula. Then the glue is allowed to dry, sometimes it takes 2-3 days.

The second option makes it possible to fix the foam with a special dowel. It has a wide head, which is why its contact with the surface is significantly increased and it reliably presses the slab against the wall. A hole of the required depth is drilled in the wall with a puncher. There should be 5 such holes per sheet - in the corners and in the middle.

The dowel should sink into the foam, not protrude from it. Otherwise, you will have to spend a lot of material when puttingty. Just do not press hard, otherwise the foam will crack.

Sometimes, for reliability, professionals stick foam plastic on the wall and fix each sheet with dowels. This method is common when the surface of the wall is uneven. Then the glue is applied in the corners and in the center of the board. Then the foam is pressed against the base. And then, at the same points, it is attracted by plastic dowels - "fungi", adjusting the flatness of the sheet along the plane and fixing it in a given position.

Many experts believe that foam is better suited for soundproofing partitions and walls. It is easy to install, does not require knowledge of special skills, is easy to cut with a knife and serves for a long time.

Before we begin to describe the characterization of expanded polystyrene, it is necessary to distinguish between it and polystyrene. There is an opinion that this is one and the same sound-absorbing material, since the composition is identical - air and styrene (hydrogen + carbon).

So, the differences between Styrofoam and Styrofoam are as follows:

1. Various manufacturing technologies - the first is produced by processing with dry steam, the second - by melting polystyrene granules.
2. Differences in the characteristics of production techniques.

Technical characteristics and properties of expanded polystyrene

This product is as famous in the construction industry as the foam. Many people choose exactly expanded polystyrene, because it has:

1. High strength - the material never crumbles, bending resistance is 5-6 times higher than foam. That is why it is better to use it in places that are sometimes exposed to mechanical stress, for example, for partitions in an apartment.
2. A high rate of sound insulation due to the presence of many voids in the polymer.
3. The density is several times higher than the parameters of the foam, so its weight is greater.

Expanded polystyrene is a material, the characteristics of which, in some cases, exceed the parameters of polystyrene. Despite this, the latter polymer is recommended for use in cases with low loads, where expensive materials are not required.

In accordance with GOST 30244-94, the fire hazard of untreated polystyrene foam has a flammability class G4. This means that its ignition can come from:

• flame of a match;
• blowtorch;
• sparks of autogenous welding.

The material stores energy from the heat source, spreads the fire and initiates an intensification of the flame. The fire safety index depends on the additives that are used in the production of the material. Ignition temperature is determined by the certification class.

Ordinary expanded polystyrene (G4) in a short time reaches 1200 ° C, and having in its composition special additives (fire retardants), it reduces the combustion temperature and corresponds to the flammability class G1.

When polystyrene foam burns, toxic smoke is formed. In ordinary material, it is 36 times larger in volume than in wood, in particular, hydrogen cyanide, hydrogen bromide and other substances are released. And depending on the impurities that are part of the expanded polystyrene, the smoke acquires a different intensity and degree of emission of harmful substances.

Products made of expanded polystyrene with G4 flammability class are not allowed for use in construction. The work uses only material modified with special additives. It is called self-extinguishing and has a flammability class G1. Domestic manufacturers mark it with the letter "C" (PSB-S).

To ensure high-quality sound insulation of partitions in rooms, it is recommended to pay attention to the polymer, the thickness of which is 2-3 cm. When choosing, it is necessary to take into account that with an increase in thickness, soundproofing qualities will increase. Before buying, break off a piece of material, if at the place of the break it has granules in the form of regular polyhedrons, then the polymer is of high quality.

Consider in the table below the dimensions, volume and weight of expanded polystyrene sheets produced by the Knauf corporation:

Expanded polystyrene boards are considered one of the most affordable sound insulators on the construction market. They can withstand loads of 6 t / m 2, are easy to install and durable.

Polyurethane foam

Soundproofing materials include materials such as polyurethane foam. It is a type of plastic with a cellular foam structure. The composition of the material is dominated by a gaseous substance, the content of which varies from 85% to 90% of the total mass. The polymer consists of thousands of cells, each of which is isolated from the rest.

There are two types of polyurethane foam:

1. Foam rubber is an elastic type of the presented polymer, the density of which reaches from 5-35% per 1 m 3.
2. Rigid polyurethane foam, available in over thirty brands (suitable for insulating indoor partitions).

The characteristics of rigid polyurethane foam used for soundproofing walls and partitions in rooms include:

• low thermal conductivity;
• light weight;
• high level of strength;
• no need to use fastening elements;
• high anti-corrosion protection of metal structures;
• there are no cold bridges in this polymer;
• insulation can be of different shapes;
• proven eco-friendliness - in accordance with hygiene standards, it can be used in the refrigerator for food.

Polymer spraying is possible on many materials (which is why its versatility is manifested) - on wood, glass surfaces, metal and other coatings. In this case, the surface configuration does not matter. An important point is the resistance of the polymer to acid, the possibility of using it in soil.

When working with polyurethane foam, it must be remembered that direct exposure to sunlight is not desirable for it.

The durability of PU foam is 25-30 years, subject to the rules of use. The excellent climate-resistant parameters of the material have been confirmed, in particular, its resistance to moisture. According to the flammability class, it belongs to the G1-G4 categories. The polymer contains flame retardants that prevent the spread of fire.

When exposed to open fire, the material tends to burn. But in its deepest layers the flame does not spread. This is explained by the cellular structure of the material and the fact that it contains trichloroethyl phosphate - a fire retardant. Therefore, it is allowed to use this material of the flammability group G1 and G2 in kindergartens and school institutions.

Also, polyurethane foam is resistant to microorganisms and decay processes.

The physical properties of this material can be viewed in the following table.

The popularity of such a building material is explained by the fact that specialists have the opportunity to get it right at the place of application. Liquid products, mixing in certain proportions, create a chemical reaction with simultaneous foaming. That sometimes during construction processes it is very convenient and physically justified.

Just remember that working with polyurethane foam requires specialized equipment and personal protective equipment.

If you are interested in information about polyurethane foam and all its properties, then in more detail this information can be found in the article ""

Basalt wool

Sound absorbing materials are also mineral wool known as basalt wool. It is used for soundproofing walls, decorative partitions and ceilings in an apartment. Products made from it are supplied in the form of slabs or rolls.

The table below shows the types of components and specifications.

The named material has a lot of advantages, among which thermal insulation stands out. This quality is confirmed by a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, heat losses are the lowest of all heat insulators. In addition to the above qualities, there are a number of other advantages:

1. The material does not deteriorate when exposed to an aggressive environment or chemicals. Basalt wool does not externally change its appearance and does not lose its qualities. She is not afraid of fungi and microorganisms.
2. The durability of the material is guaranteed by the manufacturer, it reaches 30-40 years. True, experts say that it is possible to add a couple of decades to this period. Its fibers are short; they are randomly located in the basalt wool. And this provides high mechanical characteristics for many years of operation.
3. The structure of the material is not afraid of vibrations.
4. Basalt wool tolerates ultraviolet light better than others.
5. Temperature changes do not affect the technical characteristics of the material.
6. Basalt wool perfectly absorbs extraneous noise, loud and harsh sounds.

The table shows the sound absorption coefficients of some building materials.

The use of high-quality mineral wool cannot be a guarantee of reliable sound insulation, since the material is an integral element of a sound-absorbing structure, during the construction of which proven methods must be taken into account.

Mineral wool slabs on a synthetic binder are manufactured according to GOST 9573-96 and have the dimensions shown in the table.

The physical and mechanical properties of the material must comply with the following characteristics.

Products are marked according to GOST 25880 with the obligatory indication of the time of issue and the symbol. Each package bears the "Keep from moisture" sign for GOST 14192... Basalt wool is a non-combustible material, therefore, when heated, it does not emit toxins or other harmful substances. An equally important indicator is the smoke-forming ability of basalt, which does not emit smoke. It is mounted quite simply - the slab fits between the profiles and holds perfectly. You can also fix it with cement based glue, as in the above cases with foam or expanded polystyrene.

Many people think that basalt wool is harmful to health. You can argue with that. It does not emit odors, its properties are similar to natural basalt stone. True, phenol and formaldehyde resins are used as binders, but if the necessary standards and requirements were observed during the production of the material, harmful substances remain in a bound state. Therefore, we can state the fact that basalt wool is harmless to human health and its environment.

An excellent option to solve the problem of sound insulation is to cover the walls with cork.

This coating is one of the environmentally friendly materials, since the material has a natural composition. The cork is able to retain heat, has reliability and durability. An equally important advantage is the aesthetic appearance.

There are two types of cork on sale:

1. Soundproof panels.
2. Rolls (film).

To attach it to the walls, you must use an adhesive composition. The internal structure of the material is represented by a huge number of tiny bubbles, remarkably retaining heat inside. In addition, such a structure improves the acoustic picture in rooms.

Soundproof panels have the following characteristics:

• light weight - the material is light, does not sink in water;
• elasticity - even after high pressure is applied, the panel returns to its original shape;
• tightness - due to the presence in the composition of the bark, the material becomes impermeable to substances in the liquid and gaseous state;
• high rate of water resistance;
• hypoallergenic - the stove does not absorb dust, therefore it is not capable of provoking allergic reactions;
• fire resistance - it does not contribute to the spread of fire, in addition, it does not emit toxins when ignited, which is confirmed SNiP 23-03-2003;
• the internal structure of the slab provides excellent soundproofing properties, therefore, with its use, it will be possible to ensure peace and quiet in the house;
• durability due to the unique structure of soundproofing boards and their qualities - resilience and elasticity. Even after a long period of time, the material will not lose its original properties.

Cork is a natural product, the binder of which is polyurethane. The thickness of the slab depends on the variety - it varies from 0.6 to 1.2 mm. It is recommended to protect the material from prolonged exposure to sunlight. The vibration dampening ability of the plug provides a significant reduction in noise in the room where it is used.

Soundproofing a room using cork is an excellent option for new buildings that do not require the use of special materials to provide noise isolation. The cork can be used for walls, ceilings and decorative partitions, as evidenced by numerous expert reviews.

The characteristics of this material can be found in the table.

For a more detailed explanation, we studied this material and described our observations and research in the article ""

If you choose sound-absorbing materials for walls, decorative partitions or ceilings in a new building, then it is necessary to rely not only on the performance properties or advantages of a particular polymer, it is also recommended to pay attention to the technical properties of the product. The table presented includes a comparison of all the materials considered in a technical respect. To draw an analogy, the following indicators were used: density, thermal conductivity, porosity, durability, operating temperature. Taking into account each of these parameters, you will make the right choice in favor of this or that product.

So, all of the listed soundproofing materials are able to show their qualities only in a properly assembled structure. They are distinguished by high parameters for each indicator, which determines the popularity of their use.

Mineral wool
Expanded polystyrene or penoplex

Gypsum fiber
Cork
Expanded clay
Polyurethane foam
Cellulose wool

1. Roll materials and plates;
2. Loose and other materials.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is an excellent heat-insulating material with a lot of positive qualities. Mineral wool is produced in two types - roll insulation for the floor and slab.

Loose heaters: varieties and scope

This material is best suited for insulating wooden floors - it fits very well on the base and in the logs.

• Non-flammability;
• Long service life;

• Low strength indicators;

Expanded polystyrene or penoplex

• Affordable price;

• Flammability;
• Fragility;

• Long service life;
• Low thermal conductivity.

Among the disadvantages of extruded polystyrene foam can be noted the inability to "breathe" and good flammability, which will not allow you to create a fireproof structure. See also: "What kind of insulation for the floor under linoleum to choose and how to install."

Gypsum fiber

Cork

• Environmental Safety;
• Low weight;
• High strength;
• Good ductility;

Expanded clay

Polyurethane foam

• Fast installation;
• Lack of joints;
• Excellent elasticity;

Cellulose wool

• Coating integrity;
• Low cost;

• Flammability;
• Complexity of installation.

Conclusion

Wall insulation inside the house: advantages and disadvantages

You can find quite a few statements against the insulation of the walls of the house inside. Say, with such insulation, problems of wet corners arise, dampness starts in the walls, as a result, fungus and unpleasant odors ... The goal of this article is to figure out why the listed problems arise and, most importantly, how they can be avoided and still insulate the walls at home from the inside. Well, because such insulation has a number of advantages.

Advantages of internal wall insulation

Wall insulation inside the house has the following advantages:

• you can insulate at any time of the year, regardless of the weather.
• no need to build too high a stage (if, of course, we are talking about the insulation of a residential building, and not some kind of "palace of conventions" :))
• if you need to insulate not in a private, but in some kind of high-rise building, then for external insulation you need to agree on a project to change the facade. Not to mention the fact that it is expensive in itself - you cannot do without hired specialists. Well, inside my apartment ...

What are the disadvantages of internal wall insulation and how to avoid them?

Internal wall insulation also has disadvantages.

With insulation from the inside, the area of ​​the room decreases

The first minus of the house's insulation from the inside is that the thickness of the wall will increase inward, due to which the area of ​​the room will decrease.

It will not be possible to avoid this at all, since the insulation has a thickness in any case. But you can minimize it - if the layer of insulation is not very thick. I am hinting at the choice of insulation with the best thermal insulation properties ... So far, only hinting, and specifically I will say below.

With internal insulation, the indoor microclimate worsens

The second disadvantage: the internal insulation of the house can lead to a deterioration in the indoor climate. This is exactly what all opponents of such insulation are talking about. What is it about?

The wall behind the insulation is cold. Therefore, in winter, water vapor generated in the room, passing through the layers of interior decoration and insulation, condenses on the inner surface of the wall. The result - the wall gradually accumulates moisture, which does not have time to evaporate, which is why on the walls - at temperatures from +10 and above! - fungus, mold settles, the house smells of dampness, white bloom appears on clothes, furniture, books ... little pleasant.

The described problem can be avoided by avoiding mistakes during construction and choosing the right material for insulation. What are these mistakes and what is the best way to insulate the house inside, read on.

Cold bridges remain when insulated indoors.

The third disadvantage of wall insulation inside the house: at the junctions of the interfloor / attic floors with the outer wall, cold bridges remain, through which heat leaks still occur (orange arrows):

We have this disadvantage only if we did not treat the insulation conscientiously enough: for example, they insulated the walls, but they hammered them onto the floors and ceilings. But what does the technology have to do with it if you haven't cooked your own "pot"? To avoid this disadvantage, you need to create an unbreakable thermal insulation loop from the inside of the entire room:

That's all.

How to avoid drawbacks with internal insulation?

So, what tips can you find for smoothing out the minuses of internal insulation? And are all the tips worthwhile?

Advice 1. Between the wall decoration and the insulation, a vapor barrier with one-sided conduction is placed. So it is advised to do when insulated from the inside with mineral wool.

But let's take a look at the picture:

With internal insulation, the dew point shifts to the inner surface of the wall, and the insulation, mineral wool, begins to receive moisture from the wall. And then, after a month or two, an unpleasant smell appears, bacteria begin to develop in the mineral wool ... we do not see this, but we feel the smell, while we cannot understand where it comes from.

But how can this be: after all, there is a vapor barrier, which should not let moisture into the insulation! In theory, this is the case. But in practice, it is not possible to provide one hundred percent sealing. Why? Let's remember how the vapor barrier and further cladding are attached? They put a profile for drywall, stretch the film ... then screw the drywall, PASSING WITH SELF-CUTTERS THROUGH THE FILM - and where is the hermetic vapor barrier here? And along the perimeter of the wall, it is not possible to ensure 100% sealing.

And the air in the cotton itself has moisture that condenses as soon as the wall has cooled down enough.

Conclusion: any insulation that allows steam to pass through is not suitable for internal insulation!

Tip 2. When designing insulation inside the house, you need to take into account the process of moisture transfer through the building envelope. That is, the vapor permeability of materials in the "pie" of the structure should decrease from room to street.

Difficult to say? Simpler: a non-vapor-permeable material should be in the room, behind it - a material with a lower vapor permeability, behind it - with even less, etc.

For example, you need to do insulation of walls of a panel house from the inside... The question is: what? Minwatoi? Steam passes through mineral wool much better than through concrete (I must say: steam practically does not pass through concrete).

Conclusion: do not do insulation from the inside with mineral wool of panel (and brick, and gas-block, etc.) walls, but choose another insulation. Impermeable. For example, foam or extruded polystyrene foam. (Actually, mineral wool for internal insulation is only suitable for frame houses and attics, which also have mineral wool inside the frame.)

Comment! The author believes that foam for insulating the walls of the house inside is BAD! For health. But if your opinion is different, then make at least such insulation correctly: the walls must be aligned (!) And the insulation sheet should adhere tightly (without gaps!) To this flat surface (that is, if we fix the insulation with glue, then the sheet must be smeared over the entire surface, and not put a few dots and / or stripes on it).

Advice 3. In any case, there must be good ventilation. Here, no comment, because it is correct.

Insulation requirements for internal insulation

Internal insulation imposes the following requirements on the insulation:

• durability,
• do not be afraid of fire,
• aging resistance,
• environmental Safety,
• biological resistance (not edible for mice, moths, molds ...),
• ability to keep in shape,
• sufficient thermal insulation properties.

It is advisable to check the availability of different certificates for fire and sanitary safety before buying insulation. But if the conclusion about fire safety can still be believed, then about sanitary - it is far from always: many modern materials are not at all environmentally friendly, even if their purity is stated in the certificates.

Conclusion: it is better to focus not only (and not so much) on certificates, but on common sense, reason, practical experience, time-testedness.

And now the question is: what is the best way to insulate the walls of the house from the inside?

What kind of insulation to insulate the house from the inside?

Why mineral wool is not suitable, I have already said a couple of times, I hope it is enough. So how to insulate? There are materials that perfectly solve all problems. These are the materials that absolutely vapor-impermeable.

First, extruded polystyrene foam. We use only the one that has a "groove-comb". Extruded polystyrene foam has very good thermal resistance, so the thickness of the sheet for internal insulation is only 20 ... 30 mm. Result: the wall is healthy and the minimum area is taken away.

If the issue of ecology is important to you, then we pay attention to another material: foam glass. There is a question of sealing joints: if polystyrene can tightly become sheet to sheet, then foam glass has rougher edges.

Types of insulation for the walls of the house: outside and inside for wooden and frame houses + Video

Therefore, foam glass is often put on bituminous mastic, which is again an issue of ecology. Then it is better to seal the joints with silicone sealant or liquid rubber. The foam glass itself can be glued onto polyurethane foam glue, in extreme cases, on polyurethane foam.

The third material often used for insulation from the inside is regular white foam. The problem with this material is that it has pores. Polyfoam with a density of less than 35 kg / m3 has a large number of technological pores, which is why it allows steam to pass through! The lower the density of the foam, the more vapor permeable it is. And the older the foam, the larger the pores, the higher the vapor permeability of the foam - even with the promised density of more than 35 kg / m3. Therefore, it is better to buy high-quality material for internal insulation. Again, the issue of ecology, that is, health.

If all of the above did not scare you away from wall insulation inside the house (or you simply have nowhere to go), then in the next article we will analyze the methods of wall insulation from the inside. See you.

insulation of the walls of the house inside

Mineral wool
Expanded polystyrene or penoplex
Extruded polystyrene foam
Gypsum fiber
Cork
Expanded clay
Polyurethane foam
Cellulose wool

Insulation is used to prevent heat loss in the house or in individual rooms. Arrangement of insulation is a rather serious process, and one of the leading roles in this matter is the choice of a suitable thermal insulation material. About what kind of floor insulation there are, and will be discussed in this article.

Insulation materials are available in two formats:

1. Roll materials and plates;
2. Loose and other materials.

Both categories include a fairly wide range of materials with a wide variety of properties and characteristics. The most popular floor insulation materials will be discussed below.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is an excellent heat-insulating material with a lot of positive qualities. Mineral wool is produced in two types - roll insulation for the floor and slab. This material is best suited for insulating wooden floors - it fits very well on the base and in the logs.

The list of positive qualities of mineral wool looks like this:

• Good resistance to low temperatures;
• Non-flammability;
• Long service life;
• Resistant to chemicals;
• Stable physical performance.

Not without drawbacks - mineral wool has the following negative qualities:

• Large dimensions, due to which the heat-insulating layer takes up a large volume;
• Low strength indicators;
• Poor moisture resistance.

Mineral wool, when moisture gets on it, immediately decreases in volume, and even if it is dried, the heat-insulating properties of the material will deteriorate many times over. To prevent such a phenomenon, it is necessary to install a waterproofing layer when arranging insulation.

A good solution to the moisture issue is to use fiberglass - this material can absorb liquid and does not lose its characteristics after drying. However, the choice will not be easy - mineral wool is well suited for ensuring fire safety.

Expanded polystyrene or penoplex

Expanded polystyrene is a material consisting of small balls connected together. The production of expanded polystyrene is carried out according to two technologies - press and non-press, and the difference between the materials obtained is small. Nevertheless, most often, press polystyrene foam with PS marking is used for floor insulation.

As a rule, expanded polystyrene is used for thermal insulation of concrete floors. If you need to decide which insulation to choose for a floor with water or electric heating, then profile plates, for the manufacture of which dense expanded polystyrene is used, are much better suited - this material has a relief surface that prevents damage to heating elements and improves adhesion to the surface.

Styrofoam has many advantages:

• Excellent strength indicators;
• Good thermal insulation characteristics;
• Affordable price;
• Ability to prevent moisture penetration;
• Excellent resistance to low temperatures;
• Simple installation, which is dictated by the format of the produced material.

The disadvantages of expanded polystyrene are also available:

• Flammability;
• The destruction of the material with prolonged exposure to sunlight;
• Inability to pass air;
• Fragility;
• If a small amount of water gets inside the plates and its subsequent freezing, the structure of expanded polystyrene is destroyed, therefore, during installation, it will be necessary to install a waterproofing layer;
• During the installation process, seams appear between the plates, which then need to be repaired, for which polyurethane foam or sealant is used.

Extruded polystyrene foam

This material is made by means of extrusion, which explains its name. The technology for the production of extruded polystyrene foam allows you to create a floor insulation with a monolithic microstructure, consisting of sealed cells filled with air. There are no pores in these cells, so moisture and steam cannot get into the material. See also: "What kind of insulation is better to lay under the laminate."

The list of advantages of such material looks like this:

• High strength compared to foam;
• Long service life;
• Good resistance to atmospheric precipitation and UV rays;
• High resistance to aggressive chemicals;
• Lack of toxic secretions;
• Low thermal conductivity.

Among the disadvantages of extruded polystyrene foam can be noted the inability to "breathe" and good flammability, which will not allow you to create a fireproof structure.

Electrical, sound and noise insulation materials

See also: "What kind of insulation for the floor under linoleum to choose and how to install."

Gypsum fiber

Gypsum fiber is the best option for insulating any floor covering. The versatility of this material is its main advantage, which makes it possible to insulate even structures with electric floor heating.

To equip a dry screed, as the technology of insulation using gypsum fiber is called, a minimum of knowledge and time is required - it is enough to follow the correct algorithm of work. In addition, it is worth knowing that gypsum fiber resists moisture very poorly, and the cost of the material is quite high.

Cork

For the manufacture of such insulation, cork bark is used. As a rule, cork insulation is produced in slab format, the thickness of which varies from 25 to 50 cm. The slabs can be based on cork granules, connected with resin, or pre-crushed pressed cork bark.

Cork insulation has many advantages:

• Environmental Safety;
• Low weight;
• High strength;
• Good ductility;
• Excellent resistance to moisture and mold;
• Ease of installation and work with material;
• Non-flammability and absence of toxic emissions during smoldering;
• Long Service Life - The cork can last over 50 years.

Of the disadvantages of cork insulation, only the high cost of the material can be distinguished.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay belongs to the category of bulk insulation materials. Arrangement of thermal insulation with expanded clay has been used for a very long time - this material has become popular for its good thermal insulation characteristics and the ability to absorb moisture without consequences.

The most important problem when installing such insulation is the need to create a layer of thermal insulation with a thickness of at least 15 cm - it turns out that it is far from the thinnest insulation for the floor. However, there will not be any special difficulties with this - the work is easily done with your own hands and requires, for the most part, only the investment of time.

Polyurethane foam

A good insulation option for any surface is polyurethane foam spraying. Polyurethane foam is a small capsule filled with air. To use this material, no hydro or vapor barrier is required. In addition, the polyurethane foam applied to the floor practically does not absorb moisture.

This material has many advantages, among which stand out:

• Undemanding to leveling the surface;
• Fast installation;
• Lack of joints;
• Excellent elasticity;
• Neutral to mold and microorganisms.

The main disadvantage of polyurethane foam insulation is the complexity of spraying - it is impossible to carry out this work on your own without the proper skills.

Cellulose wool

Cellulose wool is a fine-grained wood fiber material. The laying of this material can be carried out using two technologies - wet and dry. When using the wet method, the cotton wool is blown out wet, which allows you to create a monolithic coating. Dry styling looks a little easier - for this, cotton wool needs to be filled up and tamped.

Of the advantages of cellulose wool, the following qualities can be distinguished:

• Coating integrity;
• Low cost;
• Good thermal insulation performance;
• No need to equip a vapor barrier.

The main disadvantages of cotton wool are:

• Flammability;
• Poor ductility and poor compressive strength;
• Complexity of installation.

Conclusion

The presented heaters are the most popular and are used quite often. To choose which insulation to use for the floor, you need to understand the characteristics of all thermal insulation materials and choose the best option for a specific situation.

Insulation of a private house

If your country house is not able to retain heat at the proper level, and you constantly freeze in it in winter, then you should think about insulating it. Of course, you can light a fireplace, turn on an electric heater in each room and thus spend cold winter evenings. But in order to solve this problem once and for all and not spend fabulous sums on bills for gas and electricity during the cold season, it is better to insulate your country cottage. After that, in winter you will not only live in warmth, tranquility and comfort, but you will also save energy.

Insulation stages

The process of warming a country house consists of a number of stages:

• insulation of the foundation,
• floor insulation,
• wall insulation (internal and external),
• insulation of the ceiling,
• roof insulation.

Below in the article we will take a closer look at some of these stages.

In order to achieve the maximum effect from the insulation carried out, the house should be insulated in a comprehensive manner. At the same time, it is very important to use only high-quality materials.

Thermal image

Many people believe that insulating a building with the help of professionals is much better. This is explained by the specifics of the specialist's work. As a rule, a built cottage loses heat due to its design flaws. It is best to identify these shortcomings and identify all the weaknesses of the house using a thermal image. Having identified weak points, the specialist will be able to give them maximum attention. And only a professional with his own special equipment can take such a picture.

Wall insulation

As mentioned above, house insulation should be carried out in a complex. Very often the heat loss distribution diagram shows that most of the heat is lost through the walls of the house. Therefore, it is better to start insulating the house just from the walls.

Wall insulation can be:

There are a number of features to consider here.

When combining internal wall insulation with external insulation, certain proportions must be observed - the level of thermal resistance of the external insulation should be three times higher than the level of the internal one.

Internal walls

As a result of internal wall insulation, the enclosing structure does not accumulate heat. Over time, fungus may appear on the walls inside the house, as condensation will occur between the wall and the thermal insulation layer.

Another significant disadvantage of using only this type of insulation is the fact that the walls will be in the winter in the zone of subzero temperatures.

External walls

If external wall insulation is used, then all of the above disadvantages are absent. In addition, this type of wall insulation will provide the house with a much longer service life. This is explained by the fact that with external insulation, the possibility of the formation of various fungi on the walls is practically excluded and the house from the outside is additionally protected from the negative influences of environmental factors.

The only drawback of external wall insulation is the seasonality of the work, since this insulation can be carried out only in the warm season.

Conditionally, external wall insulation is divided into three main methods:

• laying insulation on the inside of the enclosing structures,
• laying insulation inside the enclosing structures,
• laying insulation on the outside of the enclosing structures (this system is called a wet-type system).

The choice of insulation

After you have selected a method of insulation for your home, you need to correctly select the material for future work. Different materials have different coefficients of thermal expansion, which must be taken into account when choosing a material. If this was not taken into account, then the material may deform over time, cracks will appear on it.

When using wet-type insulation, an important parameter is vapor permeability, as well as the calculation of moisture transfer. That is, moisture that will accumulate in the winter as a result of temperature differences should be completely removed during the summer. These calculations should be based on the average temperature level in your area. If this factor is neglected, then excess moisture will lead to the appearance of fungi.

Insulation of floors

Insulation of floors in the house should be carried out in a comprehensive manner. This is the only way to achieve a good result. Since concrete is characterized by a high level of thermal conductivity, it is recommended to insulate the foundations from the outside when building country houses.

Before starting to insulate the floor of the house, if there is a basement or basement, they are insulated first. During insulation, the floor should not be raised higher than the waterproofing layer between the foundation and the brick.

Stages of work

Usually, floor insulation is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. Crushed stone is laid on the ground (the layer thickness should be 10 cm).
2. A layer of sand is poured over the crushed stone (the layer thickness should also be 10 cm).
3. Insulating boards are laid.
4. Lay a layer of waterproofing.
5. Concrete screed is carried out.
6. Lay the floor covering.

This algorithm for insulating floors is the simplest, but there are others. They are selected in accordance with the functional properties of the future floor.

The most common schemes for insulating floors in country cottages are as follows:

• Over the underground.
• Floors in wet operation.
• The floors in the cold attic.
• Floors installed with heating cables.
• Floors above the basement.

  Thermal insulation of the house

Ceiling insulation

Heat loss from ceilings is about ten percent. And although at first glance this figure does not seem so significant, we are considering house insulation as a whole.

For insulation of ceilings, it is very important to choose a good material. Preference should be given to safe and environmentally friendly materials. In the event of a fire, fire and hot air tend to rise, so it is very important that the selected materials are not flammable and do not emit suffocating smoke.

The following materials are suitable for ceiling insulation:

• ecowool,
• mineral wool,
• plastic films,
• polypropylene films.

The listed materials are inexpensive and meet all the above requirements.

Insulation of the floor in the attic

If there is an attic in a country house, then ceiling insulation is carried out in two stages. First, you need to insulate the floor in the attic, and only then directly the ceiling itself.

A vapor barrier material is first attached to the ceiling, then insulation is laid (for example, sheets of mineral wool). A layer of waterproofing is placed on top of the insulation - a waterproofing film. After the last stage, the insulation of the ceilings in the house can be considered complete. Further, the ceilings can be sheathed with clapboard, or a suspended ceiling system can be installed.

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Video. Insulation of the facade of a private residential building

Thermal insulation, warming

How to insulate floors in a private house with your own hands?

A well-insulated house is always more comfortable. And the heating costs are much lower. In this article, we will tell you how you can insulate a house well, both during construction and when it has already been erected. You will find out what materials are used in this case and, most importantly, how to do it yourself, without resorting to the services of professionals.

What can you do if the house is cold despite the heating?

When building a house, special attention should be paid to insulation, especially floor insulation. If this is not done, the house will always be cold and damp. It will be necessary to increase the heating power, therefore, additional material costs await you. Isn't it easier to make high-quality insulation? Below we will talk about how this can be done relatively easily with your own hands. Well, if you have hired builders, then based on the material of the article, you can always control their work.

It all starts from the foundation

Insulation of a shallow strip foundation

Yes, even at the very initial stage of construction, you should take care of the insulation and waterproofing of the foundation. For example, you are building a small house on a shallow strip foundation - the simplest and most cost-effective way to erect a foundation for a building. In this case, it is recommended to stick a cheap insulation, for example, polystyrene, on the finished concrete tape from the sides, and lay roofing material on top. Both polystyrene and roofing material can be glued to bituminous mastic. Roofing material ribbons are overlapped, and the seams are held together by blowtorch fire.

Before the construction of the walls, waterproofing from 2 layers of roofing material is laid on the upper part of the foundation.

Only these, rather simple measures, will not allow dampness to penetrate the concrete, it will not freeze in winter, which means that it will become much more comfortable to live in such a house, because there will be no heat leakage. And the service life of the foundation will increase many times.

Insulation of the slab foundation

In private construction on heterogeneous soils, a monolithic reinforced concrete slab is often used as a foundation. It is insulated in the same way, only insulation and waterproofing are laid over the entire upper surface of the base, except for those places where the walls will be erected. In these places, only waterproofing is attached.

Basement insulation

If a basement is planned under the house, then a recessed strip foundation is being built. Insulation and waterproofing during the construction of such a foundation is carried out both from the outside and from the inside. Both the floor and the ceiling of the basement must be insulated. The inside of the basement is often insulated with a material called "liquid rubber". Insulation is glued onto it, and the finishing lining is mounted on top, on the crate.

Important! Insulation should always be done together with waterproofing.

What if the house has already been built?

Here, of course, there will be more work, but it is still possible to make insulation, you just have to dig trenches around the perimeter of the building to the depth of the foundation and insulate it from the sides. If the house already has floors, then they will have to be disassembled, if they are wooden, remove linoleum or other covering, if a cement screed is used as the floor. To insulate the floor inside the house, you can use both cheap materials and better ones, for example, Penoplex. It costs, of course, more expensive than foam or mineral wool, but has many advantages :

• insulation sheets have different sizes and thicknesses, which allows you to choose the most suitable for a given room;

• each sheet has a spike connection, which avoids gaps during installation.

If, nevertheless, polystyrene is chosen as a heater, then all the cracks must be "blown out" with polyurethane foam. If this is not done, "bridges" of cold are formed.

When insulating with penoplex or other similar material, the joints are glued with tape. When insulating the floor inside the house, it is recommended to lay a vapor barrier made of foil-clad polyethylene over the insulation. It is attached on top of the insulation with double-sided tape. It is necessary to provide for a gap around the perimeter of the room with a width of 1 cm... It will not allow the screed to crack from temperature extremes. This seam can be finished with foamed vinyl.

Floor installation

Well, the insulation is done, now you can start installing the floor. If you want to fill in a cement screed, it is recommended to lay a metal mesh over the surface of the insulation. It will make the screed more durable and prevent it from cracking and crumbling over time. It is recommended to lay high-quality insulated linoleum or carpet on the screed.

If possible, it is best not to use a screed, but to lay a wooden floor.

Thermal insulation materials: types and properties

To do this, logs are laid over the insulation, on which the floorboards are attached. In this case, the air space between the insulation and the floor surface will create additional insulation. Floorboards should be selected of good quality and installed according to all the rules, that is, tightly fit the spike joints using wedges. This will avoid creating gaps between the floorboards.

The advantages of insulation

• dampness will disappear in the house, therefore, comfort will increase;

• even in winter it will be possible to walk barefoot on the cement floor, which is important if there are small children in the house, because they play on the floor;

• heating costs will be significantly reduced.

Some nuances

When insulating an already built house, be prepared for the fact that you will have to outweigh the doors, as the floor will rise. Of course, such work, like all other insulation work, requires a certain investment of money and time, but it pays off handsomely. In addition, you can do everything yourself, which will significantly save you money.

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How to insulate the facade of a wooden house? Instructions

What is the best way to insulate a wooden house from the inside and what are the disadvantages of internal insulation? Materials for walls, floor and ceiling

Thermal insulation of a wooden house from the inside is advisable, unless the owner wants to spoil the natural beauty of the natural material from the outside.

It is a pity to cover a log cabin or a facade made of a bar with another finishing material, and in this case, you have to insulate the walls from the inside. Internal work includes insulation of walls, floors, ceilings, taking into account the number of storeys and the attic, and the roof.

Only environmentally friendly materials are suitable for insulating a house from the inside in order to keep the microclimate of the premises healthy.

Overview of types and characteristics of heaters, their areas of application

It is allowed to use safer penofol, as well as a universal material for insulating any buildings and structures of mineral wool.

The advantages of insulating a wooden house from the inside

The main advantage has already been mentioned above. This is an opportunity to leave the facade of the house in its natural form. In addition, the floors inside the house can be insulated, which is very important for maintaining a healthy indoor climate.

Why is it impossible to insulate a wooden house from the inside?

Of course, you can do this, but external insulation has a number of advantages over internal insulation.

Experts advise using this method of insulation in isolated cases when external insulation is really impossible. This is explained by a number of disadvantages, which should be mentioned in more detail.

The main disadvantage of internal thermal insulation in a wooden house is the dew point displacement deeper into the wall. This will further lead to the formation of mold and wood decay there.

Among other disadvantages, the following are important:

• lack of natural ventilation of the walls;
• violation of the microclimate in the premises;
• reduction of the usable area of ​​the house.

In addition, none of the heaters, except for jute and felt, can be considered 100% environmentally friendly. Therefore, it is better to insulate the house from the outside. But if this is not possible, you must choose the materials that are most suitable for internal insulation.

How can you insulate a wooden house from the inside?

Warm seam

Special sealant for log cabins. It is used indoors to insulate the seams between logs on the facade and ceiling. Relevant if the owner wants to keep the log house in its original form, without covering it with finishing materials.

Warm seam for insulation inside a wooden house

To maintain complete environmental friendliness, you can replace the sealants with jute, felt or linen tape and seal the seams with them.

The cost of caulking seams inside the house is from 120 to 250 rubles per running meter. This is a very affordable price even for families on a small budget. Therefore, it is recommended to invite specialists to insulate the log house, only they can guarantee the high quality of work.

Mineral wool

Universal insulation, which is often used outside. Affordable cost and high thermal insulation performance make this material the most popular among developers.

The insulation technology is the same for walls and ceilings.

Positive properties of mineral wool:

• high environmental friendliness, especially in modern materials, where formaldehyde is replaced with safer components;
• affordable cost material is considered the cheapest option for insulation inside a wooden house;
• good thermal insulation and noise insulation performance;
• incombustibility;
• durability the material does not rot, is not susceptible to fungal diseases;
• good indicators of vapor permeability, which, by the way, is both an advantage and a disadvantage.

Negative properties include:

• the same vapor permeability, due to which a microclimate unfavorable for human lungs can be created inside the room;
• shrinkage when wet;
• the need to sheathe the walls with facing material (create a false wall).

Features of mineral wool insulation of walls and ceilings of a wooden house

Unlike external insulation, inside the material is glued directly to the wall, then it is sheathed with vapor barrier.

It is best to use a special vapor barrier that allows air from the room to pass outside. This will create additional natural ventilation for the insulation. Even if it gets wet, the cotton wool can dry out due to the permeability properties of the vapor barrier.

A crate, a bar or a metal profile is installed on the vapor barrier (you can also under it), on which the facing material, drywall, board, lining, imitation of a bar, and so on are already attached.

Expanded polystyrene

Polymeric material based on foam, but without chemically harmful components. Suitable for insulation inside a wooden house.

In the photo, extruded foam polystyrene Penoplex

The advantages include good thermal insulation properties, low weight, durability and moisture resistance.

Features of insulation with expanded polystyrene

When choosing this material, you may come across such concepts as expanded and extruded polystyrene foam. In fact, it is the same material, the only difference is in the methods of its manufacture.

The main features of insulation with expanded polystyrene are the need for careful leveling of the surface and sealing the seams between the sheets. Old boards must be cleaned of irregularities and roughness, but the material is not suitable for a log house at all.

The joints between the sheets of material are foamed and cleaned after the foam dries. Just like mineral wool, expanded polystyrene is suitable for insulating not only walls, but also ceilings.

Polyurethane foam

Material of the future, which is applied in liquid form with a special apparatus. For insulation with polyurethane foam, it is necessary to mount a frame, which is filled with foam under pressure. It quickly hardens and forms a monolithic protective layer of insulation.

Spraying polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam will reliably protect the house not only from cold and external noise, but also provide additional guarantees of safety in case of fires.

The disadvantages include the complexity of finishing work after insulation with this material. It needs to be plastered using a special mesh.

Insulation of floors in a wooden house

In addition to the listed methods of insulation, which, as an option, are also suitable for floors, there are several more.

Warm floor

Underfloor heating system, using IR films, is an expensive pleasure, but at the moment it is the most optimal energy-saving option, which, moreover, creates a special coziness and comfort.

Backfill and jellied floors

Warming with expanded clay and pouring concrete are relevant for the floors of the first and basement floors. The advantages include good thermal insulation properties and affordable cost of materials.

There are also options for water and electric floors:

Before starting work on internal insulation, it is recommended to consult with specialists. Perhaps there is a way to insulate the exterior of the facade, and then only work on the insulation of the floors will remain inside.