Laying tiles and bathroom. Laying tiles in the bathroom with their own hands, step by step instruction. The full range of events looks like

Independent laying of tiles in the bathroom - the event is responsible, requiring some skills and compliance with the technology of this type of finish.

It is important not only to perform high-quality waterproofing, but also especially carefully approach the choice of adhesive composition.

The traditional tile or modern ceramic tile, as well as very beautiful and durable porrite elements, is an excellent way to design a wall and floor covering in a room with high humidity.

Cons of such a cladding with their own hands are represented by some features and nuances of installation, as well as the need to make the right selection of finishing material:

• . Small tiles require more skill in laying and very high-quality preparation of a floor or wall surface. It is more convenient to use medium-sized tiles for finishing, the simplest in self-laying.
• Rough or corrugated surface of elements. The smooth tile is very easy to wash, but such a surface is more slippery and traumaous, which is extremely important to consider when the floor is cleaned. Wall surfaces can be trimmed as smooth, so rough tiles.
• Color gamut and design elements. The monophonic tiles fit easily, which is very important in the absence of skills and experience of work with such a type of finishing material. A similar effect is the decorative elements or ordinary divorces.

The bathroom is usually very small in the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, therefore specialists in the design of the design are recommended to abandon the design of the floor and walls from too bright tones and screaming shades.

The finishing tile is not only the most hygienic, moisture-resistant and durable, but also the most versatile material used for facing in rooms that differ in temperature differences and high humidity.

Place styling: Paul, Wall

Before proceeding with independent decoration with tile, it is necessary to choose the type of layout and the preferred installation option. The cladding method is selected depending on the features of the surface and finishing material, as well as the availability of experiences of such work.

Main methods for laying tile elements on the floor or wall:

• direct - the easiest and most commonly used in the design of the bathroom;
• diagonal - perfect selection when designing a square room with the presence of curves and uneven surfaces;
• chess is the most popular way to form classical design in the room using elements of different color;
• with a displacement - an option characterized by individuality and lack of pronounced seams, which is especially important in a rectangular room form.

Tile on the walls - a bright solution

Required tools and materials

Work on the facing of surfaces with tiles suggests:

• electrical or manual stoveture, and a small amount of finishing material can be cut with standard glass cutter;
• traditional grinder with a special nozzle for mixing the adhesive solution;
• construction level;
• aluminum guides;
• small cells for overlapping adhesive composition;
• toothed spatula;
• tile glue of cement type or "liquid nails";
• cyans (rubber hammer);
• plastic marking crosses for suture interlocking space;
• rubber spatula for suture grout;
• battle composition.

Manual cutters for tile elements are simple and easy to use, as well as quite affordable. To properly perform cutting, you must first chain the pencil line.

The Bulgarian with a diamond disk quickly cuts the finishing tile, but the qualitative characteristics of the cut are not high enough, so the faces are used for refinement using a file or emery paper.

Waterproofing

The bathroom is characterized by a special microclimate due to elevated levels of humidity, permanent vaporization and temperature differences, so before laying the finishing materials is equipped with reliable and. For this purpose, there are several variants of the hydrocker:

• Color Waterproofing based on bituminous or polymer mastic, mandatory by several layers. The resulting waterproofing is distinguished by smoothness and lack of joints, which is very important when the finish tile finish.
• Caution type Waterproofing submitted by a dry mixture based on fine sand, polymer additives and cement. The mixture is applied with a spatula and cell, which allows you to get a thicker string for eliminating gaps and irregularities.
• Equal technology, involving the protection of vulnerable places of "wet zones" by moisture-proof self-adhesive or guided materials on a bitumen or fiberglass basis with the creation of peculiar "hydrocorps".

Foolish waterproofing in the bathroom

An expensive variant of the waterproofing of the filler type as a result of the arrangement of a single monolithic concrete hydrober.

The choice of waterproofing technology directly depends on several factors to which the version of the equipment installed in the plumbing room, the temperature and humidity level, as well as the ceiling material.

Procession

The primer compounds used in the bathroom are represented by two main groups that are radically different from their characteristics and properties, which allows you to choose the most optimal option.

The primer of deep penetration was widespread due to a large number of positive qualities:

• universality application. The compositions are suitable for processing plaster, brickwork and concrete, gas and foam blocks, as well as;
• available cost. The average price varies in a wide range, which makes such a material available to consumers with any sufficiency;
• simplicity and ease of use and self-applying regardless of the type of surface treated;
• a wide range and the presence of a variety of additives, which increase the moisture resistance of the finish and the coating is attached to antiseptic characteristics.

Less common composition of adhesive type, which have a number of undeniable advantages:

• the ability to perform work on such types of surfaces as a concrete base coated with alkyd and oil compositions materials, including metal and high-strength plastics;
• the presence of a quartz filler significantly improves the adhesion of the facing elements on the treated surface.

The primer compositions of the adhesion type have a different consistency and are implemented only in finished form, packaged in the container of various volumes.

Adhesive properties in modern primer materials are successfully complemented by high moisture-repellent characteristics, which is due to the polymer basis of the composition.

Order stacking

The technology that allows you to perform the tiled walls of the walls and floor in the bathroom room, does not have too visible, fundamental differences:

• study design layouts of tile elements;
• marking in accordance with the sketch on the working area with a laser level.

Phased features of the wall cladding:

1. the approximate location of the side elements;
2. determination of the position of the second row with a fixation of a wooden plank, steel corner or metal products to prevent the slaughtering tile;
3. preparation of adhesive mortar;
4. applying adhesive on the wall surface with a toothed spatula;
5. fixation of finishing elements on the surface-treated surface with the installation of plastic regulating beacons;
6. checking compliance with the level of elements;
7. installation of the lower row and the subsequent removal of the reference plank.

Ready decision

Faceted floor is performed from the visible all-round corner, from the threshold or from the central tag. The latter option is optimal for spacious plumbing room with the presence of a central open zone.

If cladding is scheduled for a bath tile or burglar removal, the finish can be carried out from the border in the direction upwards or below, in accordance with the standard procedure, but the first option is more preferable.

What tile glue to use

The bathroom must have sufficient moisture resistance:

• cement adhesives are represented by universal, lightweight, specialized and strong mixtures;
• epoxy two-component adhesives are produced in the form of mixtures with mineral and thin fillers, as well as fluid type;
• dispersion adhesives have high adhesion, but do not penetrate too deep into the base, so perfectly proven themselves when working with plasterboard surfaces.

To finish the surface with large ceramic granite, universal mixtures cannot be used, therefore it is necessary to use a glue composition with a high level of clutch: in the range of 1.3-1.5 MPa.

Adhesion adhesive compositions, as well as decent moisture and heat resistance, are represented by Litokol brands, Knauf, Vetonit Ultra Fix, Ceresit and Unice Plus.

Montage tile

• performing measurements of the length and height of wall surfaces, the values \u200b\u200bof door or window openings and niches, as well as any structural elements for the correct placement of finishing components;
• shuttering and leveling of surfaces;
• marking and installation of tiles with glue and pressed the elements installed.

Further work on the finishing of the room with tiles are carried out only after complete drying of the adhesive composition.

To the installation of the water-repellent tile coating in the bathroom, it is necessary to start only after a complete burden of the finishing primer layer.

Shutkish seams

The final stage of self-laying of the tile is to perform joint processing between finishing elements. It affects the duration of the operation of the coating and its hygiene.

Basic criteria for choosing a clutter composition:

• color range is a fundamental factor that allows you to get a beautiful appearance of the facing. In standard white mixtures, if necessary, a color is added;
• properties and grout composition. Ready-made mixtures can be based on plaster, portland cement, alabastra and epoxy resins. Optimal for premises with high humidity is the last option.

Conducting stamps

Standard tiled grouts are intended for independent processing of the wall suture, but such a material needs a periodic update. For seams of floor facing, it is advisable to use more chain, viscous and thick compositions.

Tiled laying technology predetermines standards and standards to be required to navigate when installing items. The recommended space between tiles, as a rule, is 2-5 mm.

Shavi processing

• the shrinkage process causes a slight displacement of the finishing elements;
• wall and floor surfaces "breathe" by means of cracks in cladding;
• processing contributes to the protection of walls from water penetration and prevents the formation of fungi or mold in the seams;
• proper processing improves the grip process of fragments.

With competent processing of suture space, an excellent opportunity appears to get a neat and smooth surface with masking defects in the form of chips or jar on the edges of the tile.

The processing of seams between decorative elements affects not only the aesthetics of the finish, but also allows you to maintain the operational characteristics of the facing material.

The decorative qualities of the finished tire facing directly depend on the observance of all stages of finishing technology. To hide the joints between the trimmed tiles of the floor and the wall, it is quite possible to use a plinth or a decorative bar that are fixed at the latest facing stage with a waterproof sealant.

I will start with the fact that laying the tiles in the bathroom with your own hands is a rather complicated and multi-stage case, with this a lot of other works are interconnected, without which the finish loses its meaning. There is a certain installation order, but in different masters it can differ slightly, since not all tilers can be plumbing and electricians.

I will not modify - I confess, I, for example, I myself perform all these works and will be happy to share with you with your brilliant developments. It is useful to you and video in this article for a more visual understanding of the process.

Finishing bathroom cafenel

Preparatory work

In general, preparation includes several types of work, but I will not break them on the items, since in any case they are performed simultaneously. That is, if you work with an assistant, then at each stage you both will be occupied by our specific business.

Tile laying technology in the bathroom does not necessarily imply a dismantling of old plaster. In some cases, the tiles are put on G Clac or on GVLV, which implies a frame finish.

Consequently, the old layer, if it is well held, can remain intact. However, if you have to do it, then:

• it is more convenient to shoot down the old layer using a perforator with a chisel, if you put it on the shock mode (icon with a hammer), it is especially good for strong cement-sand plasters;
• but, as a rule, the rule has exceptions - it happens that the layer is very weak (builders realized cement for their own needs) and it literally departs to the formation - in this case, the puncher there is nothing to
• in addition to the perforator, such tools are also used as an ax, scrap, butard or chisel with a hammer. And even though manual dismantling is harder, it still takes place;

• the concrete slabs and overlaps did not apply cement-sandy solution - there were usually lime mixtures, which can be removed by a spatula;
• only here on the top photo you see dismantling the old Soviet spatula - there is thick and solid metal. Nowadays, fine and flexible steel spatulas produce, so for convenience and efficiency, the blade is better to shorten up to 3-4 cm;
• in the same way, with the help of a spatula, you can remove old wallpapers, only to wet them first;
• after dismantling the plaster, you need to clear the surface with a broom or a brush well, and for brickwork you need to deepen the extender, at least 5-10 mm for a layer hook;
• but, as you understand, such a process will take too much time and therefore modern masters (I am including) prefer to open the wall with paint primer - it creates good adhesion;
• but if you do not have masonry, but concrete slabs, then the painting primer will turn the surface into the glass to which no plaster arrives. In such cases, "concrete contact" should be used.

Alternatively, if there is no "concrete contact" (its price is much higher than primer) on a concrete slab you can apply a thin layer of tiled glue with a trough with teeth no more than 5 mm. After drying the glue, the cement-sandy solution is perfectly located on it.

When we have excellent plaster, on top of which you can apply a new layer or put the tile on it. But the problem is that it is covered with some paintwork - in this case, you will have to remove these LKM with your own hands.

For this, various devices are applied:

• many for some reason are preferred to remove manual metal brushes or they can be in the form of nozzles on an electric drill or a grinder;
• here you can give any tips, but the brush in any case will be clogged - it is very inconvenient, moreover, he adversely affects the psyche, as it annoys the nervous system;
• it is best to use this tool that you see on the top photo, especially since it can be done yourself;
• to do this, you will need a bolt with a length of 70-100 mm, a diameter of 8-12 mm, with a thread for the head, as well as two nuts and 3-55 pieces of chains in several links (depending on the value);
• you put on these chains on the bolt, clamp the nut and lock nut and insert into the cartridge - your "krakomotbivalka" is ready for use.

In order for pieces of paints and varnish materials to fly to your head, become the right side to the wall. The cartridge rotates clockwise and the blow will be applied from top to bottom, therefore, knocked out the fragments will not be flown upwards, and your head will remain integer and unharmed.

If the work is made in an apartment building, you still wait for dismantling or replacing the riser:

• however, the riser in some cases still has to be changed. And it's good when all neighbors agree to this and can be installed on top of bottom. But in 98% of cases it does not happen - you need to do insert;
• let's deal with what you need to do for this. First of all, we cut the riser under the ceiling, leaving a piece of 25-40 cm there, and cut out another piece of several centimeters so that the pipe can move;
• then, neatly loosening the riser, take it out along with the fan tee and clean the socket at the bottom;
• insert a new tee of plastic, and at the top we wear a plastic adapter with cast iron on PVC;
• then we insert a piece of the pipe without a squabble into the fan fitting and connect it at the top with the adapter with the coupling.

Sewerage and plumbing

So, we have prepared a platform, and now I would like to decide where to start finishing works. But before them, alas, far away! First you need to dilute and hide the sewer with the water supply.

I will not tell in detail about the installation of these pipelines, and the layout of the premises is different - I will explain how to do it in principle. And begin with.

But since all pipes usually pass around, then in the case of the plaster for them there is a common shit. And where it will be necessary, such a groove is made separately.

Table of required slopes

When laying a sewage, it is necessary to observe certain slopes - they are listed in the table, but it is not always possible to put it in the stroke. Nevertheless, the requirements for slopes do not change.

If the pipeline is mounted directly over the floor or wall, then it hides in the box that makes from GVL or GKL. Most often, this situation occurs in apartment buildings, where the riser passes either in a niche or straight on the wall.

The sewage assembly occurs like a children's designer: each pipe is inserted into the socket of another pipe and is fixed with a rubber sealing ring. By bathrooms, the sequence you will install yourself, especially in the private sector.

But the toilet in 99% of cases will be at a riser or withdrawal to the street. If it is difficult to make it difficult, then you should not take "for strength" - just lubricate the rubber seal with any liquid detergent, and it will easily succumb to you.

Pipe fixation principle: brown color designated wall, gray - shtroba, red - pipes, white - suspensions, cross - screws

Hot and cold water pipes are usually made from polypropylene. The material is welded with various fittings (tees, corners, american and the like).

For fixing pipes in the strokes is the most convenient use of metal ribbon suspensions with perforation (initially they were intended for mounting frames for plasterboard structures). The pipes are simply pressed them in the groove and then plastering - it is very convenient and quite reliably.

A very important point is the withdrawal of fittings under the mixer, under the sink and under the toilet tank. After installing the tile on the wall, it should ideally get flush with it, although it is completely allowed ± 5 mm.

Therefore, in order to calculate them correctly, do not hurry - first install the beacons or the frame for plasterboard and only you can correctly calculate the exit. Under the mixer, it is best to use a missing bar, but if there is no one, then the distance between the centers of the mixers should be 150 mm, and they should be taken strictly at right angles.

Wiring wiring

Before installing beacons under the plaster, you should take care of the wiring of electrical wires. They can be of two types - under lighting and under household appliances and sockets.

So, if you have enough copper with a cross section of 1-1.5 mm2, then for the washing machine of the machine or the electric boiler, you will need 2-2.5 mm2. The same section will need for sockets (do not count on the fact that there will be no load).

All wiring should pass to the power meter through AZU. Just do not install these automata in the bathroom - they should be outwarded, and best, to mount under the counter.

Little plaster

If you are waiting for independent work, then the lighthouses will also need to choose yourself. Their optimal parameters are 3000 mm or 4000 mm long and from 6 mm to 20 mm thick (from the sole to the top of the ridge).

Of course, than a profile thicker, he is hard, but I prefer 6 mm beacons - they are much easier to level, and they take less space (on the walls the wall does not need to increase the layer thickness). The length should be chosen at the height of the room or on the floor area (ceiling) - depending on where you will be mounted.

If on the wall (floor, ceiling) in one interval you need to install more than two profiles, it is very important to align them so that they constitute a smooth virtual plane. It is possible to achieve this as follows:

• two extreme profiles are exhibited by level and top of them (distance to crest 0.5-1 mm);
• the horizontal threads are stretched along the diagonal, along which the remaining beacons are already exposed.

The principle of installing a frame for plasterboard exactly the same.

The distance between the beacons directly depends on your plaster tool. So, if you have a rule one and a half meters, the step may be no more than 130-135 cm, if two meters, then no more than 170-175 cm and so on.

The profile fixation is carried out on cement-sandy solution - some do it point, but I prefer to mount the beacons as it is shown on the top photo - on a solid path.

1. First, so the profile will stay better.
2. Secondly, it is so easier to level.

After setting the lighthouses, plaster works can be started only the next day - the profile fasteners should be captured. If you hurry, you will eat the rules of beacons during the tightening of the solution.

Plastering work as follows:

• between two lighthouses at an altitude of the meter, a solution is pounce;
• tighten its rule from the bottom up;
• then removed from the tool cut mixture;
• throw the formed fumes and stretched again.

Such passes should be made until a smooth surface is formed, but their number depends largely on how well you sink sand (pebbles turn the surface).

Methods of grouts: A - in a circle, b - in a straight line

The next day or 4-5 hours after plastering the wall (floor) you need to sweep the surface. Some miracle masters do not, but in this case the convenience of laying tiles is lost.

This process occurs with a moistened grain or semi-level. And if any pits are formed, then you can choose from the floor what matured, moisten and labeled in irregularities. You can start laying the tile already the next day, despite the fact that the term of complete drying is three weeks.

The lighting screed is carried out in the same way in another plane, so it's especially nothing to add to me here. Only here to walk along the screed and finish it with tiled with a tile, with your own hands, you can only on the fourth-fifth day, and even more reliable, in a week.

Flashlight framework frame: 1 - Wooden rails; 2 - plumbing pipes; 3 - sewer riser; 4 - water meter

If there is a niche or pipes on the walls on the walls, then you will have to mount the falseland (a frame of 50 × 50 mm rails, like on the top scheme) or a box of metal profiles in combination with CD-UD or CW-UW.

For some reason, many people believe that it is better to put the tile on the GWL or on the GVLV (gypsum fiber plate moisture resistant), made sure that it is not! Such material, although it has increased strength, but the G Clac (plasterboard is moisture-resistant) here quite will be enough.

If you have to close the water meter or shut-off fittings, then do not forget that you need to make a hatch for access. Therefore, in this place you need to strengthen the frame as on the top image.

Laying tiles

Since to lay the tile in the bathroom, you most likely want to smoothly and end up getting a brilliant surface, then the tile itself is quite natural, it should also be smooth. And this should be checked when it is purchased right in the store.

You can do this so - press two tiles face to each other and if there is a gap between them (in the center or from the edge), it means that it is a defective product. After its laying, it will be very noticeable on the plane of the wall surface, floor or ceiling.

To obtain a high-quality plane, tile should be checked for a matching diagonals. Only now the two tiles attached to each other put the end to the table and if one corner is higher than at least per millimeter, it will affect the fixes of the seam, no matter how much you try to uninstall the surface.

Of course, if these errors are small, then after laying a tile, a small marriage will turn the grout. But given the fact that each of us has its own requests, and we achieve the perfect brilliance from work, risk, I think it is not worth it.

Depending on the size, color and geometric shape (square or rectangle), the tile can be laid differently. For example, in such ways, as shown in the circuits at the top.

But, whatever it was, I note - the wall will look much more beautiful if the upper row succeeds in the whole (not curved). In addition, on the wall, floor or ceiling around the edges, it is necessary to install pieces of the same width, therefore, you will have to produce preliminary measurements and calculations.

Installation of tiles on the wall is best starting from the second row, the first is laid after the floor was suspected. It turns out that the wall row of tiles overlaps the floor, so there is no gaps and irregularities.

In order to start laying from the second row, you will need focus, although experienced masters do without it. But if you are still new, then it is best to use any of the plasterboard profiles.

They are perfectly smooth, and you will be able to lay a tile straight on it. In addition, do not forget about the hatch for the water meter and the shut-off reinforcement - the best if it just has to the whole tile, like on the bottom photo.

On the hatch you can install a plastic door, but you can also remove the tile, which will stay on the magnets (they are sold in stores and are intended for this purpose).

Magnets themselves are installed between the tile and plasterboard, and the metal plates are glued with silicone on the door - they must precisely coincide with the magnets on the position. If you wish for a removable tile, you can fasten the furniture handle, although this is not necessarily.

Some masters prefer to smear the glue on the wall and put the tile on the prepared surface - it is correct. For laying, a comb spatula with teeth with a length of 10 mm and a layer after pressing will be not more than 6-7 mm, although if necessary, it can be compressed up to 2 mm.

Personally, I prefer to smear the glue directly on the tile - so glue goes less on the edges, therefore, the seam is cleaned.

Plastic cross, the most popular thickness of which is 3 mm are used to excerct the smooth seam. To adjust the distance (it is necessary, when the diagonal is knocked down) the cross can be inserted with the most tip, turn the plastics (so it turns out thinner) or put it with an edge (so it is thicker).

The mounting tile should be constantly checking the level by vertical and horizontal, as well as apply the level or rule to the plane to level the finish. The next day, pull out all the cross and wipe the surface and the seams from the glue until it is completely duck. After the composition of the composition it will be very difficult.

For the cutting of the tile you will need a tile cargo, the tool is depicted on the top photo. They are electric, and the cut line can be made not only at an angle of 90⁰, but also under the tilt in one or another. But if you do not do the finish professionally, then the electrical device you do not need is enough hand cutter.

Inserting angles - no less important process to achieve a brilliant surface in all respects

In order to close the outer or internal angles, you can buy special plastic tile corners in the store. At the same time, they need to be selected by the thickness of the tile. If you have not done this when installing, you can do it after, and for this buy ordinary plastic corners with a 5 mm shelf and put them on silicone.

And now let's figure it out when the bath is made - before laying the tile or after. The question is logical, and this can be done in any sequence.

Personally, I measure the height and length of the bath and leave this place is empty, like on the top photo, just at the same time I also screw the CD profile on the wall so that the bath lay onto the bath (so reliable). It turns out that the bathroom's sides are inserted under the tile, the junction is climbing, and water never falls into the inner space.

But around the bath you can lay out brickwork and bold it with tiles. You can also buy a special plastic screen where there are rail doors.

If you choose the first option of the bath finishes, then be sure to leave the hatch so that you can get to the siphon if necessary. On the hatch you can install a plastic door or removable tiles on magnets.

Grouting makes a soft rubber spatula. After you proceed about the square meter, go through the seam of your finger without glove. What for? Thus, the seam will succeed a little overwhelmed, and most importantly - smooth.

Out in this way the surface from the grout every 20-30 minutes until she dried. Remember, the dried mixture is very difficult to remove, and at the same time you can damage the glaze of tiles, and it will not shine!

Tile, panels and other finishing materials allow you to make the interior of the premises more presentable and original.

Floor finish indoors for water procedures, as well as walls, is one of the best design options, perfectly suitable for the design of the bathroom.

It is important not only to correctly choose the material for the decor, but to use it competently. Many this task seems simple, but in fact difficulties arise.

This article offers a detailed instruction for laying a tile in the bathroom.

Decorating surfaces with tiles can be considered a budget method of finishing: this material is very popular due to its low cost and aesthetics. Manufacturers offer a variety of colors and sizes of a tile.

An acceptable cost allows this material to remain popular, but on sale you can find and expensive tile, affordable not everyone. Such tiles are bought to create elite interiors.

Subtleties of choice

The selection of tiles is the responsible task, it is not enough just to come to the store and buy a tile liked.

Several factors affect the choice of this material:

• cost;
• design;
• dimensions;
• technical specifications.

Marking on the package will allow you to understand whether the tile is suitable for the decoration of your bathroom. The key role is played by resistance to the effect of chemical components, in which low temperatures are portable, it is not so important.

Important! When choosing a tile, consider: whether it will not slide during wetting - it can cause serious injury. Fractures obtained on the wet floor in the bathroom are not uncommon.

The size of the tile must certainly coincide with the bathroom area. If the room for water procedures is small-sized, refuse to apply a large scale. The tile of large sizes is acceptable for spacious bathrooms, as it is capable of creating an effect of visual decrease in the size of the room, which is undesirable for the already small room.

The optimal option in such a situation will be the use of a small tile or mosaic tile. Many bathroom design ideas are embodied precisely thanks to the creation of real masterpieces from small mosaic tiles. In addition, such a tile is easier to lay: the smaller its size, the easier it is to cut.

The choice of color is of great importance, but in this moment a lot depends on individual wishes. People seeking warmth should choose a tile of yellow, sandy and even pink.

Blue, mint and emerald use from the shades of the cold gamma.

But the photo below is one of the ideas of laying wall tiles in a bathroom of two colors:

Original decorative reception in the bathroom finish - the creation of a tiled pattern.

Attention! When forming a pattern of a tile, a larger amount of material will be required.

If you decide to make a picture on the floor or on the walls in the bathroom from the tile, note that the experience requires experience, especially if a large-scale composition is planned.

Consumables and tools

For competent styling of the tile, a set of special tools and consumables will be required:

• tile glue;
• grouts to shut off;
• primer;
• a spatula with cloth;
• drill nozzle;
• measuring tool;
• adaptation for stamping joints;
• tile;
• bulgarian;
• soft fabric for levetling excessive solution with lated tile;
• plastic crosses to ensure an equal distance between the tile fragments.

Tile glue can be purchased ready for use; It only needs to be diluted with water and mix thoroughly. You can do it with a manual way, but to save time and convenience, it is better to use a moxing nozzle for a drill.

Stages of mounting a tile on the wall

In general, the installation of tiles on the wall is a rather difficult job, but it can be divided into three stages to simplify the realization of the task.

1. At the first stage, the wall surface is prepared.
2. On the second the markup of the plots of masonry.
3. The third step is directly installation of the tile.

How to prepare walls to laying ceramic tiles? The first thing should be done by the main rule - level the walls: they must be smooth and immaculately smooth, without cracks. If there are no large flaws on the wall surface, but there are minor defects, then according to the rules it is recommended to use the alignment plaster.

Attention! When using plaster, you should consider the need for a break for several days or even 2 weeks.

A good alternative to plasterboard can be resistant to moisture drywall (GVL sheet has a greenish tint).

If there are places covered with dust or contaminated on the wall surface - clean them, it concerns and painted areas. Tile glue will not be adhected with surfaces covered with paint.

When dismantling the old tile it will be noticeable that he moves away from the wall by a monolithic layer - this suggests that he has bad adhesion with the basis. Plumbing equipment (bath, washbasin) is also recommended to dismantle when decoking the surfaces of the cafeter.

The competent installation of the tile in the room for water procedures is considered correct if the start of the work starts precisely from the planning and applying. By logic laying the tile to start the right from the bottom level, skipping a couple of rows. The main reason is not a flawless smooth base that requires alignment. In addition, communication is often running next to the floor.

The main requirement at this stage is the planning and order of the arrangement of the series in the horizontal and vertical plane in such a way that the wall tile should be clogged. But exceptions are also possible, for example, when the dimensions of the tile do not allow to put it without cutting - in such a situation it is better to preserve symmetry.

Before proceeding to work, you should bind the first edge to a straight line, which runs horizontally. To do this, you can use the construction level or use the laser analogue.

In addition, it is necessary to make an indent to a certain interval, but the tile without support will begin to shift down. For this reason, the focus on the intended line is established. It is fixed by self-drawing, which are attached to a wooden rail.

The subsequent procedure looks like this:

1. Wall surfaces are grounded so that the glue is not absorbed into the plaster coating, otherwise the tile can soon fall off.
2. Checking with marking, you should lay the first row. A spatula with teeth must be applied to the opposite direction. After that, the tile is applied to the wall surface and tightly pressed. Source, i.e. The first, a number is of great importance, so constantly check as far as: exactly you put it - all items should be located in a single plane. Between the elements should be equal distance.
Important! Delete an excess solution without delay so that it does not dry, otherwise it will be difficult to remove.

3. Last stage - putting the seams. Pick the tint of the grout under the color of the tile and rub it into the seams using a special device. After soaring the grout will become impenetrable for moisture.

If there is a need to cut a narrow strip, carefully bite it with the pliers, and make a hole in the tile with a drill nozzle.

Important! The adhesive mixture should be applied to the tile and on the wall. Do not upload all glue to the tile. A small amount of distribution over the wall, and then on the tile.

In the event that the tile was cut, pass through the cut-off line with a file or emery skirt to smooth the edge sharpness.

Installation of the bathroom and other plumbing equipment is performed after complete drying of the sexy tile - at least 2 days after the end of the work.

There is no possibility and the desire to fade a bath with a tiled from the floor to the ceiling. Often, the decoration is performed on the level of the top side of the bathroom, without falling to the floor - basically they do so in order to save money, since the space behind the bathroom from three sides when using the screen under the bath will be hidden.

Important moments with partial laying of tiles from the bath level up, but without dismantling the bath itself, we recommend tracking in the following useful video:

Laying on floor

Tile laying technology on the floor in the bathroom is similar to the wall mounting scheme. First, it is necessary to prepare the basis, and then make the markup and glue the tile - from the furthest angle according to any of the schemes (diagonal method or parallel to the wall).

The floor in the bathroom room should be flawlessly smooth, without noticeable flaws, a layer of waterproofing is desirable. The bias of the floor is possible only in the shower, where the flow of water occurs. To eliminate irregularities, a layer of screed is required. Be sure to make a preliminary dismantling of sanitary equipment.

Based on the existing experience and financial capabilities, you can choose a simple solution or self-leveling compositions. The density of the casting layer ranges from 10 to 15 cm, depending on the base. A simple screed is suitable for alignment under the floor tile, but in this case, the drying time will leave more.

Priority, or sequence, laying tiles in the bathroom - usually from the bottom up, moving from the door in a circle to the other side where it is more convenient for you.

Marking

The floor does not need such a detailed markup as the walls. Probably, the tile will need to be cut, but it is important to maintain the symmetry of the lines, otherwise the appearance of the finish will be inestic.

Next steps are simple - choose the wall with which the installation of the tile will be launched, draw the line of the rows that do not need to be cutting.

A distinctive feature of the installation of a tel to the floor is that it will not be shifted, and therefore there is no need for fixing the first row.

Procedure and rules of action

1. The floor is processed by a primer mixture. If the bathroom is raw, it will take additional processing and applying the fuel insulation layer.
2. Marking is performed (try to do everything so that there is no need to cut the tiles).
3. The glue is applied to the tile with a spatula with teeth, after which the tile is pressed to the base (the need for the proper position of the protruding elements will help).
4. The same distance between the tiles is achieved at the expense of plastic crosses.
5. Delete the excess solution immediately before it hardens. Locked tile Wipe slightly moistened with a cloth in the water. The seams are maintained in the same way as when finishing wall surfaces.

An important nuance that should be considered when finishing a floor tile is a disguise under the bath. To hide the space, close its screen or make small walls, such as brick. If you do not intend to load on them, then it is possible to use drywall or other moisture-resistant material.

Important! If the walls that hide the space under the font can be separated before, and after finishing the floor, it is necessary to build them from the brick necessarily before finishing.

When laying a tile, control the two points: the parallel location of the series (unacceptably their curvature around the perimeter of the floor) and the overall smoothness of the floor - this means that each tile element will be located in the same plane as others. Check it with a level.

Calculation of necessary materials

Calculate the number of required materials on the example of a standard bath. The room has a rectangular configuration, its area is 2.5x4 meters, and the ceilings reach a height of 2.9 meters.

In this room there will be a bath, the length of which is 1, 9 meters, the height is 80 cm, the width is 90 cm.

Note that it is possible to calculate the amount of tiles required for finishing using a special calculator. But note that you can calculate various options, and only approximate calculation can be calculated on the calculator.

If you wish, you can complicate the task and calculate the density of the seams, but it is meaningless. The final result will take into account 10-15% of the battle, which will take place when cutting and delivering the material.

The walls of the walls are total equal to 37.7 square meters. meters. But it should be taken into account that the place under the font will be masked by small walls, therefore the area of \u200b\u200btwo walls located on the sides are taken into account. The final area will be 39.5 square meters. m. It is necessary to take into account the area under the bathroom, which is hidden behind the walls. The area will be 7.9 square meters.

For wall decoration, tile will be applied 0.25x0.4, 8 pcs. In one pack. Given the total area of \u200b\u200bthe wall surfaces, it will take about 50 packs for decoration, but a stock is needed in 1 pack. Total 51 packs. For sex, you need a tile of 30x30 cm, in packing 10 units. Total will need 9 packs.

Read about what exists, for what is used, how attached to the walls - all the details of the plaster on the grid.

Details about the features of the application of plaster Coroed can be found in the article.

The adhesive consumption depends on the density of the adhesive layer and on the size of the spatula used, the angle of inclination and the degree of pressing in the process of applying the mixture are also. Exemplary consumption of primer mixture from 100 to 250 ml per 1 kV. meter. The required grout volume can be found by taking into account the size of the room, the area of \u200b\u200bwall surfaces and gender; It will take 13.28 kg of a core mixture.

The floor is equalized to the fill of the screed with self-leveling properties with a density of 10 mm. Taking into account the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, you will need 6 packs of 25 kg.

In this example, a budget tile was used, its price is a key factor in the total cost of repair work. When using a tile with a pattern, creating a diagonal masonry Repair will cost more.

In a budget version, repairs will be approximately 22 thousand rubles. By purchasing materials on this amount, you can beautifully check the interior of the bathroom.

Cost of work

How much is the work on laying tiles in the bathroom at the rate of 1 kV. meter? Prices for third-party services and rates in building firms depend on the region of residence. The average cost in Russia is equal from 800 to 1100 rubles. For 1 square. m When laying ordinary tile.

Pottery stonewares are laid at a price of 800-1400 rubles per square meter, but the most expensive - work on marble tiles: Laying 1 m2 of such a material costs 1,400-2000 rubles.

Video

A tile or ceramic tile is one of the most successful and inexpensive materials for wall decoration and floor in the bathroom. Its styling can be performed with your own hands, and those given in this article detailed step-by-step instructions and video with advice and the rules of self-laying tiles in the bathroom on plasterboard will help you cope with this task without errors:

The tile is the traditional interior decoration of household rooms. It reliably protects the walls and the floor from the water, while durable, durable and decorative. The costs of the tile are folded from the cost of the tile and work on its gluing. You can save considerably if you put the tile on your own. How to put the tile in the bath on the walls and gender? And what to pay attention to when choosing and buying a tile in the market?

How to choose the tile

A variety of tiles allows you to choose exactly what you need to finish the walls and gender. However, when choosing often there are difficulties, what tile to choose - a large or small, monophonic or pattern, smooth or relief? First of all, we advise you to pay attention to three things:

Tile size. The modern industry produces a tile of various sizes. The smaller the tile, the longer it will be laying and the more difficult it is to get a smooth surface of the floor or wall.

However, professional skill is needed to lay very large plates. With incorrect actions, the tile can split, require the replacement, which increases your bathroom finish costs.

Choose the average sizes of the plates (400x600 mm for walls and 600x600 mm for the floor). They are easy to transfer, convenient to lay.

Surface roughness. Smooth tiles are easier to wash, but they are more slippery. Therefore, for the floor of the bathroom it is worth choosing tiles with a rough surface. They will not allow you to fall when moving on the floor with wet barefoot legs.

You can hang on the wall of the bathroom as smooth and rough tiles.

1. Color and drawing. Stop the monotonous tile is easier. Therefore, if you plan to perform work for the first time and are not sure what you know how to put the tile in the bathroom - choose a tile of monotonous color or with unscrew divorces, small pattern.

Note: Bathroom is a small room. Designers do not recommend using too many bright screaming color in small rooms.

Preparation of the room: dismantling old tile

Often, novice masters underestimate the role of surface preparation. This is not true. The better the surface will be prepared, the better you can lay a new tile.

It is necessary to remove the old coating. Having peeling paint, mowing plaster, the old tile will not be able to reliably and long hold a new tile. Thus, work will have to redo, and maybe buy a new finishing material.

Most time to remove the old tile. It can be held in some places on your wall. To dismantle, a drill or a perforator is used, as well as the chisel and hammer.

Pre-alignment of walls and floor

- Almost always necessary. This requires a level - a special line with air bubbles. By location of the bubbles, we conclude about the irregularities of the floor (walls). Small irregularities (up to 5 mm) can be patched by cement. Large - leveled with a metal grid, which is installed on the wall and cement.

Such a mesh is also necessary for the tiled decoration of the walls in a global house. To equalize the floor instead of the mesh, use metal profiles.

In addition, it is possible to quickly and beautifully align the wall using drywall. How to put a tile in the bathroom on plasterboard? It is very simple. The bathroom take moisture-resistant sheets - G Clac, which are mounted on the walls by means of metal profiles. However, this method of alignment is better suitable for residential rooms.

Moisture-proof treatment

After drying, concrete surfaces are covered with a special impregnation for moisture resistance. It may be penetron. It makes the surface of absolutely impenetrable for water, and this warns the wetting of the walls and the seeping of water to the neighbors (with emergency flooding). Especially carefully (twice) covered with impregnation floor of the bathroom.

After that, the primer is applied. This is a solution that improves the grip of the tile with the concrete surface.

Walls made of drywall are impregnated with special compositions that improve the moisture resistance of GKL.

Marking of rows

To the novice master put the tiles exactly, it is necessary to spread the floor, the walls and designate the ranks of the future styling.

For marking, it is necessary to calculate how many tiles fit in your width and the length of the wall (floor). To do this, it is necessary to split the height of the wall to the height of the tile, the width of the wall - on its width. As a rule, a whole number of rows is rare. More often an additional row remains, in which the tiles must be shortened.

This series is better to place the bottom of the wall. Also for the convenience of starting the masonry use the starting bar. It is fixed at the height of the first row. Such a stand is made of wooden board, beams or profiles. The first row is based on it. At the end of the work, the starting bar is removed and laid downside from shortened tiles.

Preparation of solution

This is the most simple part of the process. For masonry tiles, it is worth purchasing a special cement containing glue. The preparation proportions are shown on the package. Dry glue is mixed with water using a mixer nozzle (installed in a drill). This nozzle is uniformly (without lumps) stirred a dry mix in water.

It is important to know: do not mix all the packaging at once. Cement has a certain time of grasp. Taking into account various additives and plasticizers, in the adhesive composition, the setting time is less than that of a conventional cement solution. If you place all the packaging at once, most of it will disappear. It will freeze or lose its adhesive properties before you start work.

Laying tiles

For the applying of cement, use a special workshop (spatula) with an uneven (ribbed) edge. This trowel is applied to the wall and then they spend the ribbed side along it, so that in the cement surface it turned out to be shallow parallel grooves.

Before placing the tile, it is soaked as long as in the water. Pores of the tile will absorb water, and the tile will not take it from the adhesive solution. After wigging, the tile is applied to the surface of the wall (on which the glue layer is pre-applied). Slightly appreciated, check the level of its verticality, if necessary, is equalized (more crushed the angles or middle).

The main type of flooring and finishing materials of walls for wet premises (bathroom and kitchen) is considered a ceramic tile or tile. In our article, we will tell how to lay a tile, how the surface preparation occurs, find out which tools are necessary for work.

According to experts, the laying of the tile should be carried out according to a pre-aligned basis. It is possible to remove the old coating in several ways, the use of which depends on the type of finishing material. If the plaster on the wall is fixed using a wooden drank, then such a layer must be removed completely, and then align the solution by pre-aligned beacons.

In the case when the finish is made of tile, then such products are removed completely, after which the surface is cleared from glue residues. The preliminary stage of the work is the stripping of seams and wetting the material. After about two or three hours after that, you can proceed to dismantling work. The tile must be slightly hooked with the chisel, while the tool is interpreted into solving seam after several hammer blows. Similarly, all the elements of the coating are removed.

If the wall surface was previously processed, then a similar layer must be removed to the plaster. Dismantling of paints and varnishes is carried out using a grinding disk, which is installed on the grinder. Opels from the wall removed using a special scraper or metal spatula. Old wallpaper is removed from the wall completely, after which the base is cleaning from glue residues.

After dismantling the old coating, the base is cleaned with sandpaper and polished. Next, the accumulated construction trash is removed from the surface (a soft wet fabric is usually used for this purpose). To improve the clutch, the tile with the base is used primer. This composition is applied using a painting brush or roller, it not only improves adhesion, but also prevents the appearance of mold on the wall.

After dismantling the old finish, it is necessary to estimate the damage to the base layer. On the surface there may be convexities and small snacks, cracks and chips, roughness, as well as biases aimed at different directions. Surface leveling technology will depend on the nature of damage. So, when the height of up to 6 centimeters uses plaster on the base of the cement-sandy solution. With an increase in these indicators, it is recommended to apply plasterboard plates.

To begin with, consider the technology level alignment using plaster. To begin with, it is necessary to clean and degrease the base layer and only after that proceed to the main works. If the height differences are within 1 centimeter, then there is no need for alignment, since the glue mixture will completely block this clearance. If there are significant drops in the upper and lower part of the wall stretch the fishing line or cord for which beacons will be installed.

Next prepare cement-sandy solution and apply it to intervals between beacons. The mixture can be thrown out with a spatula or special plastering bucket. Next, the solution is aligned with the rule and wait for drying. After that, the surface of the wall in the bathroom is treated with antiseptic and primer.

The second method of alignment is the use of plasterboard sheets. Installation of such products must be taken upwards. Depending on the type of base, the moisture-resistant drywall sheets can be fixed using a plaster solution or on screws that are twisted into a pre-prepared frame of a metal profile. When all products are installed on the docking places close up with a putty, after which the coating is treated with primer.

Special difficulties with surface preparation occur when laying tiles on a wooden floor. To begin with, the foundation must be treated with a special primer in several layers. Then the plaster grid is applied and the base layer is aligned. Use wooden coating for laying tile experts are not recommended. This is due to the fact that such a material under the layers of glue and the tile loses the ability to breathe. In the future, fungus will appear on the wood, which will significantly reduce its service life.

Required tools and materials

First you need to select a ceramic tile in a construction store. When buying, it is necessary to pay attention to the stability of the product with respect to the influence of humidity (for the bathroom, materials 1 or 2 classes are suitable). Tile has the meaning and strength of the tile, in this case the most durable products are required. The calculation of the tile is carried out along the walls of the wall or the floor plus 10-20% on the reserve.

Before carrying out repair work with your own hands it is necessary to prepare the following materials and construction tools:

• ceramic selected colors and textures;
• plastic crossbars for compliance with the same amount of seams;
• tile glue;
• polyethylene film or mastic for floorproofing floor;
• mix for preliminary leveling of the base;
• rule;
• building level;
• moisture-resistant plasterboard;
• metal profile and selflessness;
• screwdriver;
• plotley for finishing wall alignment;
• primer;
• slab;
• bulgarian;
• electric drill;
• rubber hammer;
• metal lighthouses;
• devices for measuring and control (plumbing, roulette, level).

After the preparation of all necessary building materials and the tool, the adhesive mixture is mixed and proceed to the main works.

Tile glue

When choosing glue to the floor or to install ceramic tiles on the walls of the bathroom, you must pay attention to the following factors:

• Type of base. These may be plasterboard sheets, old tile or plastered surface.
• Type of tile, as well as water-absorbing properties of the product. From such parameters will depend on the amount of solution that can absorb tiles.
• Thickness and plane of a separate product. The thickness of the applied glue also depends on such characteristics.
• Material consumption. This parameter depends on the layer thickness, as well as on the quality of the wall alignment. On average, 1 m2 of the useful area takes 5 kilograms of the solution, but these indicators may vary in one direction or another.

After taking into account all the requirements, you can go to the store for the purchase of glue. The construction material under consideration can be on the market as a ready-made solution or dry mixture. For the coating device in the bathroom, it is recommended to acquire dry building mixtures on the basis of cement. You can prepare this solution according to the instructions on the package.

The adhesive mixture is quickly frozen, so it is necessary to prepare this solution from the calculation per square meter of the useful area. Despite the fact that the basic proportions of the components are indicated on the packaging of water into the container poured by about 65% of the specified volume, then a dry mixture is added. Next occurs mixing components to a homogeneous consistency and further adding fluid.

Mix the high-quality solution manually is unlikely to succeed. For this purpose, an electric door with a special nozzle, a mixer usually use. After the stirring process is completed, the resulting mass should be stood for 20 minutes. After that, the mixture is placed on the spatula and turn over, it is necessary that it is on the tool. If the adhesive begins to slide, then a little more dry powder is added to the base composition and stirred.

Laying tiles do it yourself

To begin with, you will get acquainted with the technology of tile laying on the floor. In this case, it is necessary to start working with an angular part of the bathroom, and from an angle that is constantly in front of the visitor's eyes (the specified requirement also concerns the installation of the material on the wall surface). In this place you need to install entire products. Ceramic products are mounted on a pre-aligned surface. Depending on, immediately decide and decompose the tile by numbers so that in the future it is not confused.

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the drawing of the future flooring. To do this, we put a longitudinal and transverse series of products with the thickness of the seams on the surface of the base (you can install plastic crosses). When using the traditional method of laying work starts with the middle of the room for large rooms or from the second row (for a small bath).

If a diagonal laying method is applied for the flooring device, then at the initial stage of work it is necessary to make the marking of the frieze and only after that begin to install entire tiles, and then the products are cut into the necessary pieces. When the first row is laid the floor plane controls using a construction level. Cut the tile to the desired size or to give products the necessary form in different ways: using conventional glass cutter (used for a small wall tile thickness), with a grinder with a special circle or tile cutting.

Special attention is paid to sending elements. In the locations of the seams, plastic clins or corners are installed. During styling of the seams in perpendicular directions, must coincide. Also follow the performance of the corners of the tile, to avoid the appearance of irregularities, the material sit down slightly lower from the laid level.

At the initial stage of work, the lighthouses are placed in the highest points of the base. Further, in the place of fastening the tiles, glue mixture is applied and the solution is aligned with a toothed spatula. The ceramic product is installed in a place, adjusting its position with a rubber hammer. In the intervals between the cafeter, plastic crosses are installed. Next, it is necessary to check the horizontal of the floor covering and you can continue further laying.

The ceramic tile is placed on the surface of the wall along a similar algorithm. In this case, the main works begin with a wall that is well visible by the visitor, that is, to the surface opposite to the inlet doors. Put the tile on the wall in several ways:

• classic version of the joint in the junction;
• diagonally surface;
• location of tiles in a checker order.

The first method of laying is considered the simplest. In this case, it is necessary to measure the size of products, as well as monitor the combination of seams. Works start from the bottom of the wall, the prepared solution is smeared over the surface of the wall using a toothed spatula, then installed and gently stick to the tile. The position of each product and a number of series is verified using a construction level. Crossings are installed at the edges of the tile, they are used to regulate the thickness of the seams.

When using the method of stacking "in a checker order", combined products on neighboring rows. At the same time, the central part of the tile of the lower row is located under the weld of the tile located in the top row. The process of conducting such works is somewhat simplified, because the master may not follow the coincidence of the size of the material, the main thing to achieve the combination of vertical seams.

And one more way, the laying of the tile diagonally is most often used in large baths. This method is considered one of the most difficult, so it is used only by professional professionals. The price for the meter square arranged coating is large enough. When using this method, the perpendicularity of the seams should be observed, as well as the correctness of the adjustment of the tile to the angular part of the wall.

Shutkish seams

According to experts, it is quite feasible. After such a procedure, the coating acquires accuracy, completed. The grout material prevents the appearance of mold and further destruction of the tile. For people who do not have the experience of circulation with the grout. It is recommended to choose quick-drying mixtures to fill the hand. In the future, the processing of seams by grouting will go much faster.

For high-quality work, it will take such a tool as a container for kneading a solution, a rubber spatula, a standard painting brush and a sharp knife for cleaning seams from contaminants, as well as wet fabric and several sponges. When using aggressive mixtures, it is necessary to protect your hands using rubber gloves for this.

At the initial stage of work, the knife takes the knife and clean the gaps from glue residues. After that, proceed to the preparation of the grout solution. To do this, in a clean capacity, some water of room temperature is poured and a dry mixture is added. The grout must be prepared by small portions, so as not to frozen.

At the next stage of the work, the mortar seams are wetted with water, a painting brush is usually used for this purpose. After that, it is embarked in the mixture, and the solution is laid in the seams with a flexible spatula in the direction of perpendicular gap. The mixture must be applied quickly, but with special accuracy, so that the material is able to fill the entire space. In the process of processing, the remnants are removed by the spatula.

At the final stage of work, when the mixture will dry completely, wipe the surface of the wall with a cloth. The purpose of such an operation is to remove residual residues. A soft cloth needs to move in the transverse direction, so as not to squeeze the mixture of the seam. The sponge is used at the final stage of work, it is used to align the seams, give it a beautiful appearance.

Cost of the Wizard on Tile Stacking

For many property owners, the question of the cost of laying tiles on the floor or wall of the bathroom remains relevant. The fact is that not every person can fulfill such work with their own hands, so many users resort to the help of specialists. The cost of laying ceramic tiles will depend on many factors, such as the need to level the base (plaster or plaster plates).

In general, for each square meter of the finished surface will have to give from 400 to 550 rubles. Much depends on the organization or private entrepreneur who carried out repair work.