How to insulate an iron door with your hands. How to insulate the front door. Protection of iron doors from freezing

The entrance to a house or apartment is not only a reliable door, but also an opening, which is formed due to the thickness of the outer wall. Modern door blocks are distinguished by good heat and sound insulation properties, therefore, when installing them, it remains to finish and insulate the door slopes from the inside.

The aesthetic appearance and high-quality insulation of the entrance to the house completes the overall interior of the room and serves as an obstacle to the penetration of cold air.

The exterior finish of the doorway is usually performed as part of the installation work for the installation of the entrance door. The gap between the wall and the door frame is blown out with foam and covered with platbands, which are included in the installation kit. Inside the room, the sealing of the seams, the decoration and insulation of the slopes can be done independently.

According to the method of work, there are three options for finishing and insulation:

• Application of cement mortar or putty mixture directly to the walls;
• Bonding finishing elements with glue or mortar;
• Frame fastening of finishing elements.

The material for insulation is selected depending on the type of door leaf and wall covering inside the room. The more finishing layers, the better the insulation of the doorway. As the top layer are used: paint, wallpaper, decorative plaster, plastic, wood, laminate, MDF, PVC sandwich panels.

If the width of the trap allows, then a layer of isolon or mineral wool is laid between the finishing layer and the wall surface. Otherwise, it is enough to seal the assembly seams and level the surface of the slopes with cement mortar.

Surface preparation for finishing work

First of all, it is necessary to inspect the assembly seams for tightness. For this, the open flame of a candle is carried along the perimeter of the door. Places where the flame deviates towards the room should be sealed with particular care.

Before finishing work, the door is covered with a protective film. The polyurethane foam that protrudes beyond the edge of the door frame is carefully cut off with a clerical knife.

The inner surface of the opening is cleaned of construction dust and impregnated with a primer. Then a cement slurry is prepared from one part of M400 cement and four parts of sand; water must be added with constant stirring until a homogeneous plastic mass is formed.

On the slopes, using a level, beacons are installed from metal profiles, which are fixed with plaster or alabaster. The edge of the opening is reinforced with a painting corner. After the composition under the lighthouses hardens, cement mortar is applied to the assembly seams and the wall surface. It is leveled with a wide spatula, the edges of which slide along the beacons.

The next day, the slopes are sequentially covered with the main and finishing layer of putty. The prepared surface can be painted with paint, covered with wallpaper or other materials (laminate, PVC sandwich panels, MDF).

Insulation of the entrance to the apartment with plasterboard

Gypsum is a natural, safe, convenient building material. Warming the door slopes from the inside with plasterboard allows you to reduce the time of installation work and achieve an absolutely flat surface. It is first necessary to seal the assembly joints with cement mortar. It is not necessary to completely level the surface.

To carry out finishing work, you must:

• Take measurements from surfaces and build paper patterns;
• Cut drywall and adjust the dimensions at the attachment point;
• Clean the surface of the walls and apply a primer;
• Using a level, fix the panels with glue or polyurethane foam;
• Strengthen the edges of the drywall with painting corners;
• Putty joints and corners;
• Apply a finishing coat of putty.

Fastening of plasterboard parts starts from the top of the opening, and the inner and outer edges of the panel can be fixed with a decorative corner made of plastic or fiberboard.

Frame finishing of the entrance opening from the inside

To securely fix the elements of the finishing material in the opening of the front door, use a frame made of metal profiles or wooden planks. The assembly seams are closed as described earlier. The slopes are primed and leveled with cement mortar, since the frame structure must fit snugly to the surface.

The main profiles are fixed along the inner and outer perimeter of the opening. For the stability of the entire structure, jumpers are installed between them. Such jumpers in the upper corners of the frame facilitate the installation of the finishing material.

The frame method of fastening allows you to use almost any finishing material for insulating door slopes from inside the room. If the frame is made of wooden planks, the installation of laminate, parquet boards, MDF boards, wood or plasterboard panels can be done with self-tapping screws.

When the laminate is laid transversely, the fastening starts from the bottom panel, which is fixed on both sides on the frame structure.

All subsequent elements are installed using lock joints. The top panel is also fixed with self-tapping screws to the frame.
The edges of the frame structure are closed with decorative corners in accordance with the selected finishing material.

Plastic cladding of the entrance from the inside of the room

Plastic is not particularly durable, but its cost is an undeniable advantage over other materials. In addition, if you fix the plastic siding lamellas horizontally, this will strengthen the structure of the cladding of the slopes.

Sealing of assembly seams is carried out as usual. The surfaces of the opening are cleaned and primed. Then the necessary measurements are made and the siding lamellas are cut according to the patterns. The upper and lower lamellas are cut at an angle in accordance with the bevels of the walls.

Guide elements (J-profile) are installed on the upper and side sections of the inner door opening. A corner profile or platband is fixed along the outer perimeter. Plastic lamellas are laid horizontally between the guide profiles.

If the width of the opening allows, before attaching the plastic siding, a crate is made and insulation is laid between the slats.

With the frame finishing method, you can not only insulate the slopes, but also lay hidden electrical wiring and telecommunications, arrange built-in lighting that turns on when the door is opened.

Watch the video:

After the completion of the installation work, the protective coating is removed from the surface of the door, the power supply is connected to the sockets and lighting points. The entrance opening is ready for use.

One of the weak points in the housing insulation system, the house can be called windows and entrance doors. Correct door insulation can reduce heat loss by 25-30%.

High quality front door insulators, their selection is the key to success in the fight for energy conservation.

Heat the door leaf to the block.

The main method of heat loss is a poor connection of the door leaf with the closing latch. In the cracks created, which neither the owner of the apartment can see, cold masses of outside air enter the rooms.

In general, this disease is characteristic of woody products, as a result of the lack of reliable seals. Since the tree can change its geometric dimensions (shrinkage, swelling), it is simply necessary to use materials that provide a reliable seal for the neck door, depending on the indoor conditions. The cheapest is foam, I must say that this material cannot be called the optimal choice.

The foam itself is short, very sensitive to moisture, and should not be used on intensively controlled doors. Although it can be used, for example, on a balcony door, provided that it rarely opens in winter. More modern material profiles of rubber seals based on self-adhesive materials.

It is more robust and reliable, suitable for front doors. When installing, consider the thickness of the seal, if too thick is used, there may be problems with the door closing.

Heating of wooden doors.

Almost the only way to insulate wooden doors is to cover them. In this case, cotton wool, foam, insole are usually used as insulation.

Heating of metal doors.

Insulation of metal doors is also different. I would like to say this: the best option is to buy custom made metal doors and you can define all the nuances of door insulation.

How to insulate an iron door with your own hands - step by step training in thermal insulation

Standard metal doors are usually supplied without internal insulation. As internal insulation materials, foam plastic, extruded or non-extruded, mineral heaters are usually used.

Existing heater selection can effectively address excessive heat loss, and the key to success will be implementing manufacturer recommendations for installation.

20.3.2013 at 15:03

These problems can be cured if you properly insulate your front door. Various materials are used for insulation, most often plastic foams and fibreboards:

• fibrous materials are stone and mineral wool, which are in the form of solid plates or a cylinder heater. They have good thermal insulation, acoustic insulation, they do not sustain combustion, they are easy to fix.

  In this case, cotton wool has a significant drawback - when it is wet, volume is lost, and after that the insulating properties are significantly reduced.

  Therefore, the use of this material will be recommended in apartment buildings with heated access doors;

• polystyrene is a polymer material in which bubbles are filled with air.

  Polystyrene has the same structure, but it is filled with nitrogen, but not air, so it is less prone to burning and degradation.

  Both products are available in different thicknesses, allowing you to choose the one that suits you. Styrofoam and polystyrene are moisture resistant and suitable for use in all rooms.

Also read: How to properly insulate an iron door with your own hands

What materials and tools are needed to insulate iron doors

materials:

• a heater that meets your requirements;
• a sheet of fiberboard, MDF or chipboard;
• seal;
• self-tapping screws;
• foam assembly;
• liquid Nails.

instruments:

• drilling;
• pencil;
• screwdriver;
• electric saw blade;
• roulette;
• sharp knife;
• screwdriver.

How to insulate a metal door from the inside

Create a warm home, comfort and get rid of the cold, you will help warm the door from the inside out.

You must first remove the door from the hinges. This work will be easier and easier if the door is in a horizontal position.

The metal plates are usually fastened with screws. Unscrew them and examine the space inside. When measuring with pencil and tape, remove and write down the measurements. It is necessary to prepare the heating of the material. Inside you will see pipe profiles that divide the space into cells. This design provides a solid front door. The depth of the insulation material is smooth. Access to doors and locks must remain free. To attach the heater, it is best to use liquid nails to ensure it is insurmountable, and the cracks between the pieces of material are covered with polyurethane foam.

Then we'll finish.

How to insulate a wooden front door? Self-isolation modes

Expensive doors are often not covered with a single sheet of chipboard or fiberboard. It is advisable to replace the questionable material with a new sheet that you previously attached to the required dimensions.

The fiber is fixed with ordinary screws.

Continue with the final build phase. The sheet metal returns to its place and secures it with screws. Then carefully check the door you received.

Any open cracks must be filled with sealing material.

Note. If you decide to insulate metal metal doors, remember that this will not work.

It is necessary to cut off one front part of the blade and replace it with a chipboard plate.

How to insulate an iron gate from the outside

In the cold season, so that there is no condensation, and the front door does not freeze, it is necessary to make insulation from the street.

Insulation of external doors may be required in a private house and apartment.

This method requires a lot of effort and time, since there are no cavities in this part for laying the insulation.

First you need to make a custom door frame.

Remove the door from the hinges and measure its pages. The frame is suitable for simple wooden planks. Desirably, the material is 20 mm thick and 30 mm wide.

The wooden frame will move around the perimeter of the door. The strength of the structure is increased by the cross rails. Repair it with screws. Thus, create an inner cavity. We filled it with thermal insulation material and attached it to liquid nails. All distances between pieces of insulation will explode the foam. We are waiting for it to dry completely.

Continue from the end that will hide the insulating material. To do this, remove the sheet from the fiberboard or MDF mounted to the dimensions of the door and carefully repair it.

Heat the door frame.

The iron door is made of a corner attached to the wall with metal pins.

There are often gaps between the wall and the box, which are foamed when they are provided with a build-up foam. This has the main disadvantage - when exposed to light, the foam installation quickly loses its protective properties and falls off. You can figure it out in brown or yellow. If this happens to your box, you must remove the old foam and re-insulate the insulation.

For this:

• a wall that fits the neck, cleans the old insulation, exposes the plaster on a hard layer, removes dust residues;
• the surface is scattered with water, after which the slots and holes with a depth of more than 2 cm are filled with foam for assembly;
• Wait for the foam to dry completely.

  Excessive cutout with a sharp knife;

• neck plaster trim. A properly insulated door frame keeps cold air out.

The iron door, thermally insulated by all the rules, completely retains warm air in the house and provides reliable protection against noise.

Frost approximation is more and more important. And the door is one of the first among the common cold areas.

Through cracks in the canvas itself or a gap with a box in a house (regardless of private or apartment), a draft, smells and noise penetrate from the outside.

This sealing and thermal insulation of the outer door affects not only the room temperature, but also the overall atmosphere and comfort.

Replacing door blocks for newer and warmer ones is not meant for everyone. And in this article we will look at ways to insulate existing wooden doors with our own hands, the video is attached.

Heating methods

When deciding how and how to insulate wooden doors, for example, in a private house, there are several main directions.

All of them are directly related to the design and possible sources of the project:

• For general improvement of the thermal insulation properties or the presence of cracks in the canvas - insulation of the linen.
• If there are gaps between the door frame and the board, secure the joint.
• Damage to the neck box (frame) - heating.

Heating a wooden door frame

It might be worth starting by insulating the box itself.

Because no attempt to insulate wooden doors will be effective if there are large spaces between the wall and the frame.

Check for cracks in the frame and between the wall and the wall, if possible, eliminate the cause and close.

How to insulate wooden doors with your own hands using sealing joints (video)

Connection methods:

• Use of a sealant.
• Using cylinders to close the gap between the fabric and the box.

These methods of heating wood doors are simple and easy for yourself.

Photos from the site: x-teplo.ru

Install the seal on the door frame

The seals have different fixings: self-adhesive or self-adhesive, with or without a clip.

Profile: single, double, triple. Material: plastic, rubber, foam rubber, etc.

The easiest way to seal doors with gasket material is with a self-adhesive rubber profile. It is glued along the edge of the frame, which increases the tightness of the underlay. It is simply attached, but in the end its adhesion density is significantly weakened.

On a low budget, and if you have dermantine cuttings, you can warm up your front wood door more stained with dermatological tape.

It is attached to a box with small upholstery nails. This is not the most efficient method, but it will also help you reduce the number of drafts.

The width of the sealant is selected from the cell size.

The thickness is taken from the gap between them. The required length is calculated by measuring the circumference of the box.
Further measures depend on the selected seal.

When determining the thickness, you can use regular clay. It is wrapped in cellophane, placed between the box and the fabric, and closes the door. The resulting cylinder will be the required thickness.

In this video you will find an example of printable insulation:

Sealing by cylinders

Among the methods of thermal insulation of wooden doors with your own hands, thermal insulation with rollers is one of the most common methods.

Just 15-20 years ago, every second entrance to the apartment was arranged in this way.

It's simple, inexpensive, and convenient if there is no other way to isolate it.
At the edge of the door frame, a suitable heat insulator has appeared in the cylinder inside the gasket material.

This is an example of a roller seal:

Do-it-yourself thermal insulation of a wooden door leaf (video)

Wood is a substance that retains heat well.

Therefore, in the presence of small gaps (for example, on a balcony door), it is enough to paint the surface in time to reduce precipitation.

But for complete thermal insulation, it is better to insulate the doors with upholstery.

Photos from the site: semidelov.ru

The front door is an expensive but constant welcome.

It is often used in parallel with all the others.

For upholstery you need:

Upholstery material.

According to your quality, use specialty fabric, vinyl, natural leather or dermantine.

Heater. They can be foam rubber, synthetones, various mineral wool, foam, insole, foam, polyurethane foam, etc.

Some materials require a vapor barrier.

The amortization process itself does not depend on the type of materials used, with the only exception in the form of expanded polystyrene.

An example of upholstery that you will find in the video:

Installation of double doors

This is another way to insulate your front door.
Yes, he needs expenses and "eats" a room in the hallway.

But the effectiveness of this method is one of the best.

The air between the two sheets will additionally be contained from the heat output.

In addition to other doors, you can use all of the same additional insulation methods.
It is not difficult to install additional door blocks. When you don’t need to improve the security of your apartment, the right inner door with a threshold is suitable. Its installation is standard, the only thing that is needed is to immediately close the connection between the frame and the fabric.

Photos from the site: www.rumas.ru

Hope this article helps you.

And all doors - entrance and balcony, wooden and metal, new or self-insulated, will keep the warmth of your home.
Remember to create the best indoor climate that requires a systematic approach. Along with the door, you may need to handle windows or walls. And if this is a private house, then a roof with a floor.

Even with thermal insulation, one piece of individual reception is not enough.

Another example of using several methods of heating an entrance wooden door with your own hands is in this video:

Another option is to install double doors.

Rubber seals will last longer when pressure plates are installed.

Now almost all apartments have a metal entrance door, thanks to which you can not think about the safety of your home. But, unfortunately, this design has one significant drawback - it strongly transmits cold and sounds from the outside.

In order to enjoy the peace and quiet in your apartment, as well as to avoid heat loss in winter, you can insulate the door with your own hands.

What is insulation and what is it for?

Iron is a good conductor, even if the door is tightly and hermetically closed, cold air from the street immediately ends up in your apartment.

Therefore, the main tasks when performing insulation work are:

• strengthening the sealing of the door frame and the door itself;
• high-quality insulation of metal fittings and parts;
• placement of insulating material inside the door leaf.

In addition to the listed tasks, insulation work is also carried out to increase the service life of the door and to protect it from mechanical damage.

Let's figure out how to insulate an iron front door.

Types of heaters.

What is better to insulate?

The most popular materials for insulation are: cardboard, foam plastic, glass wool, polyurethane foam and foam rubber.

When the front door is insulated with corrugated cardboard, the thermal insulation does not have a high level, but at the same time the door itself does not become heavier, due to the small mass of material.

Polyfoam is an easy-to-use, durable and environmentally friendly material that has high thermal insulation and anti-noise properties.

When buying a material, you need to pay attention, first of all, to its weight and structure and give preference to foam sheets with a dense structure.

This material is by far the most effective heat insulator.

Polyurethane foam has similar properties and quality characteristics, but has a higher price.

You can insulate the door with your own hands using glass wool (a type of mineral wool).

The material is made from sand, glass, lime, borax, dolomite and soda. It has high heat and sound insulation properties, good resistance to high temperatures, which allows glass wool to be classified as a universal insulation.

However, glass wool is rarely used as insulation for steel doors, due to its low density, increased fragility and fragility of the fibers. Over time, glass wool absorbs moisture and damp, which leads to an unpleasant odor and drips.

Also, a significant drawback is the sediment of the material, which leads to the formation of voids in some parts of the door.

Polyurethane foam has a very low thermal conductivity, does not absorb moisture and is very light in weight. It has a low degree of fire resistance, therefore it is not recommended to use it for door insulation.

Foam rubber as insulation, the worst option. They can only insulate wooden structures.

Therefore, if you are deciding how to insulate the front door, it is better to choose foam plastic, which has good heat and sound insulation properties, as a material.

Door frame insulation rules

Insulation work will not be completed until the door is completely isolated from noise and cold.

When the walls are skewed, due to the destruction of the door frame over time, its deformation between the wall and the frame, a gap occurs, due to which significant heat loss occurs in the room. Therefore, during installation, the box profile must be filled with a special solution.

If this has not been done, you need to drill holes in the box and blow out the cavity with polyurethane foam or use a granular sealant.

How to insulate an iron door from the inside and outside

In solving this issue, much depends on the type of canvas, collapsible or not.

If the door leaf can be disassembled, the material is placed inside.

In this case, the seal can be:

• rigid - polystyrene, polystyrene.

  It is selected based on the thickness of the door leaf, and fits into the middle of the door in a spacer, due to which it is kept inside;

• soft - glass wool, while it is necessary about the moisture insulation of the material by closing it with a film. Otherwise, it will absorb condensation and eventually corrode the material.

Before performing work, locks and handles are removed, the box is disassembled.

Insulation material is laid inside, the structure is assembled and installed in its original place.

How to insulate an iron front door in the case of a non-separable structure?

Only with an additional overlay inside the canvas. The door is removed from the hinges, all fittings are removed. A bar is screwed along the inner perimeter (the optimal diameter is 10x10 mm), the upholstery is pulled and fixed with special nails on the slats.

You can fill the cavity of the door block with a loose heat-insulating compound.

However, this operation is possible only if there are no crossbar control mechanisms inside the leaf that close the door at the top and bottom. In such a situation, insulation is carried out only outside (provided that the surface is flat). For this, a rolled elastic insulation material is attached to the canvas. This type of insulation work does not look very aesthetically pleasing, therefore, a wooden or plastic coating is made on top.

How to insulate a Chinese door?

In practice, this question arises constantly with the onset of cold weather.

Unfortunately, it is impossible to insulate the iron Chinese door on your own, you cannot disassemble and assemble it, because this is not foreseen in the production process.

If you nevertheless were able to disassemble such a structure, then you will no longer be able to assemble it, it practically falls apart. Therefore, such popular methods of insulation as disassembly, filling with insulation, assembly, in this case, will not work.

It is also not possible to insulate it from the inside by filling the voids with polyurethane foam, because the product is deformed, the locking rods or the lock can also jam.

Such a door is steel, but not strong. Attempts to veneer the outer surface will also not lead to anything good, even a small additional load will deform the products. Therefore, it is rather difficult to figure out how to insulate a door in a private house if it is made in China.

Cladding rules

This type of work is carried out to improve the appearance, enhance heat and sound insulation.

The most popular, albeit expensive, type of cladding is MDF metal panels.

The material is harmless to health, resistant to fungus. After making such an overlay, it must be covered with an anti-vandal film to protect it from mechanical damage.

The product can be covered with leather, clapboard, plywood.

Step-by-step technology for insulating an iron entrance door

It is up to you how to insulate, most often the choice depends on the technical condition of the product, material capabilities, preferences and taste. Upholstery work is performed after removing the door from the hinges, removing the handles, peephole, lock. The front door is best faced on both sides.

By insulating the door, you will get rid of problems in the form of extraneous noise and will be able to calmly rest in your warm and cozy apartment.

Based on materials from the site http://www.mnkk.ru/

How to insulate an iron front door - this question is relevant for both apartment owners and private houses, this is due to the fact that metal doors are the most popular today, but the disadvantage of many such models is poor thermal insulation. If in terms of security this is an ideal option that can protect you from burglary, then there are many questions about the thermal insulation and sound-absorbing properties of such doors, but do not worry, you can fix this problem quite easily and quickly by doing the insulation work with your own hands.

Often, an entrance door, especially a metal one, requires additional insulation

Materials (edit)

How can you insulate an iron front door? Today, the building materials market provides a huge assortment of various types of insulation. Depending on the minimum temperature in winter, you can buy expensive and high-quality polyurethane foam or polystyrene. If you live in an area with a rather warm climate, you can limit yourself to simpler materials. In such cases, mineral wool, polystyrene foam, foam rubber and isolon sheets are often used for insulation. From bulk insulation for doors, you can use granules of foam plastic, expanded polystyrene, ecowool.

Mineral wool - traditional insulation for entrance doors

Since an iron door and other structural elements in a private house can be insulated in several ways, it is necessary to select the material based on the thickness of the metal, the structural features of the door, its standard filling and other characteristics. In addition, care should be taken to seal the joints and cracks in the wall itself.

Internal insulation of a standard door

So, how to insulate an iron front door? Standard models are a sheet of metal reinforced with stiffeners. Some modern doors can be opened and their interior can be seen. Simple models are a single sheet of thick steel. In both cases, this method of insulation will be suitable.

First you need to remove all the accessories: handles, locks, peephole. It is necessary to take measurements from each section, separated by stiffening ribs, based on these data, it is necessary to cut the insulation into fragments for each section, and then put each piece in its place. The edges of the insulation should fit snugly against the walls of the door, therefore, when cutting, it is better to add 5-10 mm on each side. Seal all joints with sealant or polyurethane foam to eliminate cold bridges.

The design of a high-quality entrance door always implies a layer of insulation

After that, a sheet is cut out of fiberboard or plywood, identical in size to the door leaf. Lay it on top of the insulation. Using self-tapping screws for metal, screw the sheet tightly to the door leaf. Depending on the type of metal, you may additionally need a drill, then the plywood is fixed with screws.

Internal insulation of non-separable models

If you have a complex model installed that cannot be disassembled, then you can insulate such an iron door from the inside in another way, unlike the previous ones, this method is even simpler. For this, dry insulation in granules is used; walls and roof are also insulated in a similar way. What is the principle of working with dry insulation? It does not need to be laid and additionally secured, it is enough just to fill up the hollow space inside the door leaf, small granules will fill all the voids. In order to evenly distribute the material and better tamp it, you need to knock on the walls of the door or shake it by tapping on the floor, if this is, of course, possible.

Expanded polystyrene granules will help to solve the problem of insulating a non-separable entrance door

As a heater for such cases, polystyrene granules or foam balls are most often used. Previously, sawdust was used, but their thermal insulation properties are much lower than that of modern materials.

It is worth considering one important detail: if you have installed a door with special blocking crossbars, which are part of an anti-burglar system, this method of increasing the thermal insulation properties should not be used.

The fact is that the granules of the insulation are able to clog into this system and, thus, block the movement of these parts.

External insulation

Now let's look at how to insulate an iron door from the outside. In addition to internal insulation, you can fix the insulation on the outside over the door leaf, this will not only allow you to achieve the best effect, but also transform the appearance of the door. This will require a piece of dermantine, slightly larger in size than the door itself and several strips of small width, with their help, sealing rollers are equipped around the perimeter of the door.

With the help of glue and dermantine, a rolled piece of a soft seal is attached to the metal, then insulation sheets are also attached to the canvas using glue, it can be foam rubber, polyurethane foam, isolon or mineral wool. The final stage is the gluing of the dermantin. Its edges are tucked up so that no cuts are visible and glued over the rollers. Then all the fittings are installed in place.

Seams and gaps

To achieve maximum efficiency, it is necessary to ensure that seams and joints are completely sealed. First of all, it is necessary to close up the gaps that remained after installing the door frame. It is quite simple to identify them: it is enough to bring your palm to the opening and hold it along the entire perimeter, in places requiring insulation, a draft will be felt. You can also use a burning candle, its flame will vibrate intensively in the area of ​​those areas where there are cracks.

Silicone sealant is used to insulate the seams

It is possible to insulate an iron door and a door frame with your own hands using various materials. In order to seal cracks and joints, polyurethane foam is most often used. After hardening, the excess is cut off with a knife, and the remaining foam is covered with plaster or platbands. If you do not close it, the material will collapse very quickly under the influence of light. Also, instead of foam, you can use silicone or rubber sealant, it is much more convenient to apply, and even the smallest cracks can be repaired.

The next step is to insulate the joints of the door and shed. The first way: rubber. To do this, you need to cut strips of small width and glue them around the perimeter of the tray. You can purchase ready-made parts, they will provide better insulation, as they will fit more tightly to the door leaf. In the closed position, this insulation will provide complete sealing of the seams.

Second way: foam rubber. The principle of operation is the same, it is also installed along the perimeter of the loot. Finding strips of foam rubber of the required width on the market of building materials is not difficult, they are convenient because one side of them is an adhesive tape, so it is very easy to attach them. A more modern and reliable material is izolon. In appearance and the principle of fastening, these two products are practically the same.

Knowing how to insulate an iron door, you can not be afraid that the winter cold will knock on your house. The process of self-improvement of the doors will not take much time, and the consumption of materials is relatively small, but you will be reliably protected not only from the penetration of strangers, but also from drafts and frost.

The main purpose of a steel door is to protect your home from burglary. However, in addition to its main function as a guard, a well-insulated metal door makes a significant contribution to the overall energy efficiency of the house. Heat loss through a blown and freezing doorway, an uninsulated door and an ineffective ventilation system without a recuperator can reach up to 20%. Based on this, the importance of installing a reliable and high-quality steel door becomes clear. This article discusses how to insulate a metal door.

Why do you need a vestibule at the entrance

To make the entrance group energy efficient, you need to install two doors - a steel street door that opens outward, and the second - an internal, simple wooden door that opens into the inside of the house. In this case, an air gap forms between them, and air, as you know, is the best heat insulator. Such a tandem will allow you to keep warm in the house, as well as protect the inner door from freezing and fogging in severe frosts.

However, homeowners do not always have the opportunity to equip a full-fledged vestibule.

Also, often on the entrance group, due to lack of funds, they put inexpensive doors that are not distinguished by high quality workmanship. Result: such a structure and a metal box freeze from the inside of the room in frosty conditions, right up to the formation of ice, and from the cracks between the door leaf and the frame it shines through.

Accordingly, the money spent on heating goes down the chimney. The way out of this situation can be the independent insulation of the metal door and, no less important, the door frame.

Step one - choose a seal

In any business, in order to obtain a quality result, you must first develop a plan. This thesis is especially relevant when carrying out construction work. Therefore, before taking on the insulation, first of all, we inspect the doorway. At a low-quality door, due to a loose seal between the door leaf and the frame, cold outside air enters the house.

Beer69 FORUMHOUSE user

You should not chase the large thickness of the door and, accordingly, the size of the insulation layer inside it. The main thing is how to insulate a metal front door - this is a clear geometry of the "box-door" node, which depends on the thickness of the canvas and the stiffening ribs. Street frost mostly passes through the junction (the gap between the leaf and the frame), and not through the door leaf. The best performance is achieved when installing a double box with two gasket contours.

Even the number of locks and the points of their location affect the tightness of the blade to the rubber seal. It is optimal when the door locks (2 pcs.) Are located slightly below and slightly above the middle of the leaf.

From the point of view of frost resistance, the best type of lock device is a lock with a lever (plate pack) type of mechanism.

Polinka FORUMHOUSE user

At inexpensive doors, the wind often blows between the leaf and the frame. To eliminate this, you need to lay a high-quality self-adhesive seal around the entire perimeter.

The main purpose of the seal is to seal the junction of the door to the door frame. This prevents frost, extraneous noise, dust and wind from entering the room.

If, as a result of inspection of the seal, it turned out that it does not fulfill its function: it is damaged, lost its elasticity, it is installed with violations, then it must be replaced. Before going to the store for a sealant, you need to:

• choose the material of the seal;
• decide on the thickness of the seal;
• choose the shape of the profile of the seal.

The seal can be made from:

• rubber;
• silicone;
• polyurethane;
• plastic;
• foam rubber.

Most often, rubber seals are used to seal the door-to-box junction. They are distinguished by their durability, resistance to adverse weather conditions, and low cost. The silicone sealant has similar qualities. Due to the ease of installation, polyurethane self-adhesive seals are widely used.

It is also important to choose a seal of the required thickness and profile. To do this, it is necessary to measure the size of the gap between the door leaf and the frame. As a guide, you can adhere to the following rules:

• If the gap does not exceed one to three mm, then you can choose a rectangular seal.
• If the gap is 3 mm, you can choose a seal with a C, K, or E-shaped profile.
• For a gap of 3 to 5 mm, a P or V profile seal is used.
• If the gap is more than 5 mm, then a gasket with a profile shape O or D is installed.

If the seal is glued with silicone glue, then before applying the glue, the surface must be cleaned of the old seal and degreased. When gluing the sealant, special attention should be paid to the corners, because when cutting the sealant, gaps may remain in them.

Step two - insulate the door frame

Many novice developers believe that it is enough to buy and install a well-insulated metal door, and the entrance lobby will become energy efficient. Such a factor as the most powerful cold bridge, which is a metal door frame, is often overlooked.

Heat dry FORUMHOUSE user

I "looked" at the door frame through a thermal imager and was surprised how much it stands out in color against the general background of a well-insulated door. Earlier I assumed that the metal freezes badly, but now I am convinced how great the heat loss in this unit is. It is necessary to insulate the box. The only question is how to do it.

Recently, metal structures with a thermal break are gaining popularity. In this case, the inner and outer surfaces of the sheet and the box are separated from each other by a material with low thermal conductivity. As a result, the cold bridge is eliminated.

Using the principle of thermal break, it is possible to modify the metal door frame of a cheap door. For this, the metal (metal box) is isolated from the warm room. This can be done by installing an additional wooden box and platband. As an option, having glued the contour of the metal box beforehand with a heat-insulating strip of isolon.

SergeiSt FORUMHOUSE user

Insulation inside a steel door is more needed for sound insulation than for thermal insulation. Therefore, in the struggle for energy efficiency, it is necessary to close all metal parts of the door from inside the warm room. This is exactly what we do by closing and insulating the metal circuit (door frame) with a wooden end piece with a rubber seal.

What such a node looks like is clearly visible in this figure.

Also, a wooden box, due to the texture of wood, ennobles the entrance group.

In addition to the above-described method of insulating an iron door, such an option for insulating a door frame is often proposed, such as foaming its inner cavity. For this, holes are drilled around the perimeter of the steel frame, through which, from the can, polyurethane foam is injected inside. Let's run an experiment to see if this method is justified. Take any metal pipe, fill it and put it out in the cold. Let's leave it for a while and then touch the metal with our hand.

The expanded foam can lead to deformation of the door frame or stain the door leaf. You also need to remember that polyurethane foam can get into the crossbar cavity and, when dry, jam the crossbars and disable the lock.

Andrey-AA FORUMHOUSE user

I decided to insulate the metal entrance door at the dacha by foaming the door frame with polyurethane foam. I sang from the heart. As a result, the foam got onto the crossbars through small cracks and froze. Trying to open the door, I first broke the key, then I decided to drill the lock or even turn the door out with a crowbar. Having calmed down a little and thinking, I opened the box with a grinder and, thrusting my hand into it, pushed the bolts out with my fingers. The foam, which was not completely solidified, flowed out of the slot. I had to, so as not to spoil the canvas, to glueits cellophane and construction tape. Then I waited for all the foam to dry so that it could be removed from the transom cavity with a chisel.

Conclusion: you need to be careful with foaming the box!

Andrew 203 FORUMHOUSE user

Foaming the box improves sound insulation to a greater extent than serves the purpose of insulation. This should be done only with the door open and then, before closing it with a lock, wait for the foam to completely solidify. After that, the holes under the crossbars must be cleaned with a drill, or a narrow chisel or other tool.

Step three - we insulate the door leaf

After completing the previous two steps, we proceed directly to the insulation of the door structure. Two options are possible here:

1. Internal insulation of the door cavity. Why the door needs to be removed and disassembled.

1. If the door cannot be disassembled, then you will have to insulate it along the surface of the canvas.

In the first option, we do the following:

1. We shoot.
2. We dismantle the decorative panel.
3. We insert polystyrene or extruded polystyrene foam into the cavities (between the stiffening ribs).
4. Foam up the cracks and install the decorative panel back.
5. We put it in place.

A door insulated in this way can be lined with clapboard, glued on artificial leather, and trimmed with a brushed board. A wide scope for creativity opens up here. Do not drill holes in the door leaf and try to foam it from the inside or fill it with granular foam through these holes in the cavity. If you insulate a metal entrance door "blindly", such an upgrade can lead to jamming and failure of the locking mechanism.

If the sheet of a metal door cannot be accurately dismantled without destroying it (it is rolled), then the insulation will have to be mounted over the door.

WAAD FORUMHOUSE user

The member of the forum did this - first he drilled holes and gently zapil door frame, which ensured its 100% sealing and increased sound insulation. I pasted over the outer part of the door with an advertising film. Then, using liquid nails, I glued extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 2 cm to this film.

Sticking the film on the door will allow you to further dismantle the insulation without the time-consuming operation of removing the glue from the door leaf. The film peels off easily if heated with an industrial hair dryer.

Also, as a temporary option, for emergencies or emergencies, you can temporarily "insulate" the entrance to the house in this way.

From the inside, in the doorway, a dense and heavy fabric is hung, which, when exiting or entering the house, leans to the side. It should look like a curtain or curtain. The fabric is not hung up close to the door, but at a short distance from it (5-10 cm). If the depth of the opening allows, then you can hang two curtains, also at a short distance from each other. It turns out a mini-vestibule. Due to the air gap, the heat from the house will not go outside.

A high-quality front door reliably protects an apartment or house from drafts, heat loss, odors and sounds. Modern new designs of entrance doors made of metal or wood are immediately insulated and reinforced during the manufacturing process. But what if there is no desire or means to replace the old front door, which does not have high sound and heat-saving properties?

Everything is simple - the door can be visually refined and insulated with high quality without large financial losses.

Reason # 1

If the front door is old, then it is quite possible that the insulation located between the canvases is damaged. For example, mineral wool starts to rot at high humidity.

Reason # 2

Gaps and gaps between the door leaf and the frame. This problem can be caused by a skewed frame due to improper installation, high humidity, or frequent use of the door. Also, gaps appear due to deformation of the canvas, shear or damage to the attached fittings.

Reason # 3

Gaps between the door frame and the opening. If the doorway is larger than the frame, then all gaps are sealed with polyurethane foam. If the foam is not applied in a continuous layer, the design may have poor heat-saving properties.

The restoration and insulation of the door is carried out in several stages.

1. Fastening the seal around the entire perimeter of the door frame.
2. Sealing gaps and gaps between the frame and the door leaf.
3. Checking hinged and locking fittings.
4. Upholstery and insulation of the door leaf.
5. Sealing openings between the box and the opening.

Required materials

Insulation

Seals

This type of materials is located around the entire perimeter of the door leaf and, when the door is closed, it qualitatively seals the structure.

Seals are divided into several types according to the location of the sealing ribs: single, double and triple. The more additional layers a material has, the better it protects against cold and noise.

The seals can be attached to the ends of the canvas on self-tapping screws or a self-adhesive base. The first type of fastening is of higher quality and more reliable, it is designed for high loads.

Upholstery

To make the restored door look aesthetically pleasing, it is recommended to upholster it with a material that does not allow moisture and air to pass through. For these purposes, eco-leather, leatherette, genuine leather are suitable.

To keep the upholstery firmly on the door leaf, special nails are required. You can also complement the design of the door with a special wire, which is attached between the nails and creates a pattern on the front surface of the leaf.

Lining made of wood, MDF board (8 mm) with one-side lamination. These materials can be used for interior door decoration.

Instruments

1. Angle grinder with cutter for cutting the groove in the door leaf.
2. Screwdriver.
3. Hammer.
4. Stapler with a set of staples.
5. Roulette.
6. Scissors.
7. Polyurethane foam.

Preparatory work

Before starting work, you need to determine exactly what materials will be used to restore the door. If the inner side of the door leaf is made of MDF, then you need to purchase or order the required sheet of material in advance.

If the door leaf has settled under its own weight, then it is advisable to twist the hinges with new self-tapping screws or completely replace the hinged fittings.

It is advisable to carefully check the perimeter between the box and the wall opening for sealing, if necessary, remove the old foam and foam the cracks in a new way.

If the door is severely deformed due to moisture, then you can process the ends with a plane so that when opening and closing the canvas freely enters the door frame.

During restoration, you can replace the door lock, peephole, chain,

Installation of the seal

Step 1

Determine the dimensions of the gap between the box and the canvas. If the gap around the entire perimeter is more than a few millimeters, then the groove for the seal does not need to be cut.

Step 2

Cut the sealant into the desired size fragments. If the tape is self-adhesive, then you need to glue it around the entire perimeter of the door frame, closer to the outer side of the canvas.

Step 3

If the seal is made of silicone, then you need to attach it to the ends with a stapler. Such an attachment is much stronger and more durable than sealing with a self-adhesive material.

Step 4

If the gaps between the blade and the box are not too large, but a draft is felt, you can use a grinder to cut a groove 1-2 mm deep and 3-4 mm wide. A seal is attached to this groove, you can use a two-layer or three-layer material.

Warming and restoration of the door leaf

These devices are designed to seal the gaps between the door and the jambs.

Step 1. The leatherette is cut into 4 strips, 10 cm wide.The length of the strips is equal to the width and height of the door leaf + a margin of 5 cm on each side.

Step 2. A strip of leatherette is applied to the edge of the door with the wrong side. Every 10-15 cm, the material is attached to the canvas using a stapler or upholstery nails.

Step 3. The strips are attached around the entire perimeter of the door. Near the hinges, the material must be cut in a special way: the roller should not interfere with the closing and opening of the door. To prevent the roller from puckering, you can trim excess material around the edges. The final assembly of the roller is carried out after the door leaf is insulated.

Polyethylene foam roller, which must be inserted around the entire perimeter of the door into the leatherette strip

Insulation of the door leaf

It is possible to upholster the door with leatherette both from the inside and from the outside. Also, the inner fabric can be decorated with a laminated MDF board. The color of the material can be selected at will. The canvas is fastened with self-tapping screws along the perimeter. It is also important to pre-cut holes for a handle, peephole or internal lock, if any on the door.

Most often, the restoration is carried out using the upholstery of the canvases with eco-leather or leatherette. It is not difficult; if you wish, you can do this process yourself.

Step 1. Fastening to a sheet of insulation. It is important that the size of the insulation on all sides is 10 cm larger than the dimensions of the door leaf. Most often, ordinary foam rubber is used for these purposes, having a thickness of 2-3 cm. With the help of a stapler, the foam rubber is aimed at the door leaf at small intervals.

Step 2. Excess material is trimmed around the perimeter of the door. The stock is needed so that there are no problems with the fastening of the insulation: it is easier to cut off excess edges than to accurately shoot a sheet of material cut to size.

Step 3. Additionally, it is recommended to attach batting on top of the foam rubber. This material will improve the heat and sound insulation of the door structure.

Step 4. The leatherette is cut with a margin: 4 cm on each side. You need to nail the material to the canvas with insulation from the middle. This method of fastening minimizes distortion and wrinkling of the material.

Step 6. Fastening leatherette along the edges of the canvas. Stretch the fabric tightly to avoid bumps.

Step 7. The leatherette must be carefully fixed around the entire perimeter of the door. The gap between the location of the nails is 5-6 cm. It is advisable to drive in the nails at the same level and at an equal distance.

Step 8. Finishing roller attachment. The protruding ends of the fabric are folded into a tube and nailed. It is desirable that the roller is of the same size on all sides of the door. This will improve its appearance.

Step 9. Handle attachment. In the place where the fittings are located, you need to make a hole in the leatherette, and then attach the handle using self-tapping screws.

Step 10. Refining the appearance of the door. To prevent the canvas from looking too simple, you can decorate it with nails, wire or fishing line. To do this, markings are applied to the leatherette: a grid, squares or other geometric shapes. Nails are driven into the corners of the figures, serving as a fastener for wire or fishing line. The wire is pulled between the nails, visually dividing the canvas into fragments. It is important to respect the geometry of the drawing.

Video - Insulation of the entrance wooden door

There are several ways to insulate a metal structure: by installing an internal or external insulation.

Internal insulation

Doors in which metal canvases are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws are best insulated with foam, isofix, expanded polystyrene. You can also purchase special acoustic panels that will reduce the penetration of noise from the outside.

Stage 1. With internal insulation, the sheathing of the canvas located inside the apartment is removed. Opening the outer panel is impractical and dangerous, the structure may lose its former strength and reliability.

Stage 2. After the casing is removed, you need to unscrew the screws holding the metal sheet. The old insulation located between the stiffeners needs to be removed. The new material must be cut into fragments of the required size and placed between the partitions of the frame.

Stage 3. The metal sheet is attached to the old place. It is advisable to use new self-tapping screws. The door trim can be restored by replacing it with a new one or using old material. It all depends on the condition and type of canvas.

Video - Insulation of a metal door from the inside

With this method, the insulation is attached over the metal sheet, due to which the thickness of the door increases significantly.

Stage 1. Installation of a frame made of wooden blocks along the perimeter of the door from the inside. Bars 15-20 mm thick are screwed to the metal sheet with self-tapping screws. Also, with the help of beams, internal stiffeners are formed, between which insulation is attached.

Stage 2. Installation of insulation sheets. The material is cut into pieces so that they fit exactly into the recesses between the stiffeners. The thickness of the insulation should not be greater than the thickness of the beams.

Stage 3. Finishing the door. A canvas is cut from eco-leather or leatherette, attached to nails with wide caps to the bars. The edges of the canvas should go to the ends of the beams so that the material completely covers the entire structure.

Also, instead of fabric, you can use a cut-to-size laminated MDF sheet.

It is not difficult to insulate the door yourself, the main thing is to observe all stages of the restoration work.