Juniper bush division. Juniper: the best breeding methods. The simplest is the seed method

Juniper Cossack - reproduction

Recently, many amateur gardeners, in addition to fruit and berry crops, have also planted ornamental plants on their plots, as they say "for the soul and to please the eye." Among them, a special place is given to coniferous evergreen trees and shrubs. Due to its unpretentiousness and frost resistance, the Cossack juniper is the most popular among gardeners. But the trouble is, the seedlings of these crops cost a lot of money. Okay, if you plant one plant, and if you want to plant a hedge of conifers. In this case, you can try to grow the seedlings yourself. Juniper Cossack is a dioecious plant. The male flower looks like an oval earring with numerous stamens: the female flowers are collected in an inflorescence. Cones are small, spherical, no more than 7 mm in diameter, brown-black with a bluish bloom, drooping. The seeds ripen twice a season - in the fall and spring of the next year. Each cone contains no more than 4 seeds. Caution they are poisonous and Cossack juniper cannot be used for medicinal purposes.

Seed propagation

The most difficult and long-term breeding option for Cossack juniper is by seeds. From the resulting juniper fruits - cones, you can get seeds for sowing, for this you need to remove the seeds from the fruit and rinse them, for quick germination they can be immersed in a solution of sulfuric acid for 10 minutes. To grow a juniper bush from a seed, you need to stratify it. The best way is to plant seeds in autumn in boxes of soil. Then natural stratification - the boxes are taken out into the street and stored under the snow during the winter for 4-5 months, and already in April the overwintered seeds are sown in the beds.

The neighbor has a gorgeous juniper, but you don't. If you want the same - take a shank from him. If you do not know how to plant, read the details on breeding junipers.

The best way to breed juniper

According to statistics, seedlings from cuttings are 50% more successful than others in transferring. 80% better adaptability and air conditioning. Moreover, they do not require special attention and care. Cuttings are used by landscape designers and experienced gardeners.

How to choose an auspicious time?

In the middle lane, manipulations with cuttings are carried out from the third decade of September to the last days of November. Why? With increased humidity and cooling of the soil, changes occur in the plant that are favorable for reproduction. Many gardeners recommend choosing April-May, explaining this time by active growth, which is favorable for root formation. It is not recommended to consider the summer months.

Each region has its own climate characteristics. You can focus on temperature indicators. Successful rooting occurs at + 5 ... + 20. Deviations from these values ​​have a negative effect on the cuttings and lead to "shock fading" or death.

Cutting rules

How to cut a stalk

Using a bush form as a "donor", only lateral branches are suitable for cutting. On a canopy growing vertically, consider shoots that are exclusively vertical. Regardless of the variety, the length of the cut branch should be 10-15 cm.

The blank for planting cannot be long-term. Try to perform the "operation" within 3 hours after cutting.

How to prepare a cutting

The stalk must be enriched with moisture. Put in water for a day or wrap with a damp cloth. It is better to use the well-known stimulant "Kornevin" or a folk remedy: sugar solution (1: 2).

Preparing the soil for juniper

It is important to create a soft planting soil. The best way is to mix sand with peat. Stick to a 3: 1 ratio. Pour the resulting mixture with a dark solution of potassium permanganate. Mix thoroughly.

Juniper planting

Create a hole in the chosen place, fill it with prepared soil, put sand on top (2 cm). It is not necessary to deeply deepen the stalk. It is enough to place 4-6 centimeters in the soil. Moreover, the direction of the seedling depends on the variety. We plant the columnar ones strictly vertically. Creeping - it is better to root in an inclined position.

As a safety net, it is best to always plant several branches. Therefore, if you want to get a guaranteed 100% result, do 3-5 landings at once. Place the holes in 70 cm increments. After deepening the stalk, squeeze the ground and moisten. Then mulch with ash and chopped pine bark. Create a film cover for a greenhouse effect. If the place is sunny, shading is necessary.

The rate of root formation depends on the moisture content of the soil. Regular watering is necessary: ​​as it dries, usually twice a week. Rooting takes 2-3 months. There is no need to rush to disembark at the designated place. Let the plant grow strong and come into strength. If the cuttings were carried out in the spring, then it is reasonable to plan the planting only for the next autumn. In any case, it is better to wait for the annual growth to appear.

There are two ways to propagate a juniper - by seeds and cuttings. It is undesirable to propagate ornamental varieties by seeds, since in most cases they lose their maternal characteristics. So it is more preferable to propagate the juniper by cuttings.

Reproduction of a juniper by cuttings can be carried out at any time of the year, but a more favorable time is summer and autumn.

It all starts with the preparation of the cuttings. To do this, you need to separate cuttings 10-15 cm long from the mother plant. They simply need to be torn off along with a piece of wood, the so-called heel at the tip. Clean the stem of the cutting from needles and a couple of centimeters from the edge and place them for a day in Kornevin's solution or any other growth stimulator.

Reproduction of juniper by cuttings in a jar of water is impractical, since the delicate bark of this plant can exfoliate from moisture and, as a result, the productivity of the workpieces will decrease. We do not need this at all, and we will immediately root the plant in pots or boxes of sand. The dishes must be equipped with drainage holes.

We need clean river sand without any additives. The only thing is that it needs to be disinfected in boiling water. The cooled sand is placed in containers and treated with a 3% manganese solution. Now we are not afraid of pests and bacteria.

We deepen our cuttings by 1 cm, squeeze, compact the sand around them. We remove the boxes in the shade and provide them with a temperature of + 17-23 ° C. In the summer-autumn period, this will not be difficult, since you do not need to build a greenhouse. It is enough just to cover the boxes with gauze.

One of the secrets, one might say, the main one in the reproduction of juniper, is the observance of temperature and humidity. Then rooting will happen much more successfully and faster.

The first time, about 2 months, you need to spray the cuttings with water with a garden sprayer every day, while trying not to overmoisten the sand.

When the roots appear on the cuttings, you can plant them in open ground or in larger pots for growing.

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How to root a juniper with cuttings

Juniper is a plant that stays green throughout the year. It belongs to the Cypress family. Due to the variety of colors, shapes, decorativeness and originality, this plant is one of the most popular among gardeners. Accordingly, the issue of reproduction of juniper is very relevant, therefore this article will be devoted to this topic.

Juniper is considered to be a representative of perennial plants. This shrub is very fond of heat and sunlight, tolerates dry periods well and does not tolerate excessive moisture. With the help of juniper, they strengthen the slopes, create hedges, curbs, it is used in landscape design.

Juniper is considered a unique plant due to some of its characteristics.

In nature, this bush is quite difficult to reproduce with the help of seeds. We will not argue in this article that it is quite simple to propagate a juniper by seeds, since this is not true. Growing this plant from seeds is quite problematic, and it takes a lot of time and effort. Even if a positive result is obtained, guarantee the quality of the planting material is impossible. The thing is that the seedlings of the bush grow very slowly, and it will be possible to get the first fruiting only 10 years after planting.

An alternative to sowing juniper has become cuttings. This work is easy to do at home with your own hands, and it will take up to three months.

Seedlings, which are obtained as a result of cuttings, have a stronger root system, due to which they take root faster and can give better growth.

The juniper is propagated throughout the year, it depends on the period of time in which the plant needs to be transferred to the ground.

1. If the plant is planted in spring, cuttings should be prepared until mid-February.
2. If planting is planned in the fall, then cuttings are performed in the middle of summer.

These requirements are justified by the fact that the rooting process in juniper is rather difficult. Like other representatives of conifers (spruce, thuja, etc.), the root system of the juniper takes a long time to form. The first root that will be viable does not form earlier than on the 25th day, and complete rooting occurs at best 2 months after planting the cuttings in a special substrate.

One of the important nuances in reproduction is the obligatory observance of the correct size of the cutting. It should be denser and more voluminous than other horticultural crops. For this reason, its length is about 25 cm. The correct slope must also be observed. This is due to the species of juniper. Erect bushes are planted and germinated vertically, and varieties that creep along the ground or curl - at an inclination of 40-45 degrees.

How to root a juniper with cuttings is a rather difficult question, but it is also very important to properly prepare it for planting.

To choose the right stalk for planting, which can maximally repeat all the characteristics of the mother plant, a number of simple rules should be followed:

1. The future stalk is cut from the middle or from the upper part of the crown (the shoots must be lively and green).
2. If you want a spreading bush to flaunt on your site, then the cutting should be taken from the side branches.
3. You need to cut the stalk with the part of the branch on which it is formed (this contributes to the early rooting).

In order for the stalk to be guaranteed to take root, it will be necessary to hold it in a growth stimulant solution for some time. There are many such drugs, but there are some nuances. For example, rooting the cuttings in a liquid with a root former is impossible due to the fact that the juniper bark exfoliates in water, this affects the productivity of the sprout. The best alternative to liquid is powder or paste. The cut must be processed with any of them, and you can also add the drug to the soil in which the plant will be planted.

For planting juniper bushes, specially prepared soil is required. It should be:

To achieve all the characteristics mentioned above, it is necessary to mix peat and sand in equal proportions. It is not worth adding ash and lime. Such soil will dry out quickly, but in order for the cutting to take root and take root, the ground is covered with plastic wrap in order to create a greenhouse effect.

The procedure for planting sprouts is quite simple. It is necessary to make small holes on the surface of the soil, the diameter of which will not exceed 1 cm, and the depth - 3 cm.The gap between them should be about 8 cm.The sprouts should be planted carefully so as not to damage the cut, since they take root rather hard.

After planting, the soil should be compacted and moistened. You do not need to use a spray bottle, as water can get onto the branches of the plant when spraying.

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Reproduction of juniper cuttings at home

Juniper belongs to conifers. Usually it is grown on plots in the country or in a garden, in a vegetable garden sometimes, more often on the street, if we are talking about a city, for example, but rarely a juniper is bred at home. Of course, this can be done at home, if you plan to eventually transplant this coniferous plant somewhere, because it will, albeit slowly, but still grow, which means it will take up more and more space in your house. You must be prepared for this in advance, before you start breeding juniper at home. Its growth can still be restrained or kept at a specific level thanks to the planned pruning of the plant, and you can also come up with a whole composition of several juniper trees, constantly multiplying them and planting them in different pots.

Preparing soil for planting juniper cuttings at home

Juniper is unpretentious and takes root well on lean soils. But most of its species prefer light soil with good drainage. For each seedling, a hole is prepared in size about 2 times larger than the rootstock of the seedling, along with the ground covering it. The larger and higher the species of juniper, the greater the distance the trees are planted. For small species, the distance may be slightly less than one meter, and for larger 1.5 m - 2.5 m. At the bottom of the hole, a drainage layer of small stones or broken bricks covered with sand is arranged. The thickness of the drainage layer is about 15-20 cm. A mixture of turf, sand and peat is poured over the drainage in a ratio of about 2: 1: 1. You can add a little compost to the planting holes and add 30 grams. nitroammophos. For common juniper, Central Asian or Cossack juniper, an alkaline soil reaction is required. In preparation

The earthen mixture for these species needs to be reduced in the amount of sand and peat, and a little slaked lime or 200-300 grams of dolomite flour should be added. Juniperus virginiana prefers clay soil, which is mixed with a small amount of sand.

Cuttings are harvested in cloudy weather, because the sun's rays can have a negative result both on the planting material and on an adult juniper. For cuttings, the tops of semi-lignified shoots are used, since they are considered better formed for continued growth. Shoots are freed from interfering needles and twigs, about 3-4 cm from the heel - it is in this place of the shoot that a new root system will form.

Sometimes you may hear recommendations to soak the cuttings before planting in a special root stimulator. However, you should not do this, because the bark of the juniper is very delicate and in water it can simply peel off, which will lead to a decrease in the overall productivity of your harvests.

Planting juniper cuttings at home

Juniper planting should be done in the fall and winter months. However, knowledgeable people recommend planting plants from mid-September to the last decade of November. During this period, the stomata of plants close due to the increased degree of humidity in the air, as a result of which there is practically no evaporation of water, which has a beneficial effect on the state of the tree and the reproduction process. In spring and summer, it is categorically not recommended to start a juniper planting. This is due to damage to the root system, which is caused by increased evaporation and physiological drought observed in conifers during the warm season. However, the question of the optimal timing of planting juniper trees is quite controversial. Many gardeners argue that the time from the first days of April to the end of May is ideal to organize the reproduction of juniper by cuttings, since it is in the fall that this period is the peak of its growth and development.

When deciding on the timing of planting, you should also pay attention to the climatic conditions. In order for the rooting of juniper cuttings to be successful, the temperature indicators of the air must be from +5 to +25 degrees. Higher or lower heat levels can adversely affect the reproduction process of the plant and lead to its death.

Some types of juniper require additional fertilization, so for Virginia juniper, you can add half a bucket of compost. For Cossack juniper, it would be nice to add 0.3 kg of dolomite flour. All these procedures are carried out in advance, since after 2 weeks the earth in the hole will have time to be compacted and the seedling will be able to fit there.

After planting, the root collar of the plant should be 7-10 cm above ground level, again, due to the fact that the ground will still settle. After that, the bush is watered, and when the water is completely absorbed, it is worth mulching the area around the trunk, this will protect the soil from drying out.

Watering the juniper

During the period of active growth, it will be enough to water the plant only during extreme heat or a long absence of rain. One adult bush takes 10-15 liters of water.

It will be an additional plus if daily spraying is carried out in the evening after a stuffy day. For this, the plant will thank the needles with bright colors.

Pruning is carried out when there is a desire to give the juniper an unusual shape. Pruning can also be done if dry branches or deformed areas appear on the plant.

If you are interested in creeping juniper species, use layering. Young twigs can be cut during the entire growing season, their rooting is faster than rooting of stiff shoots.
Layers are dug in and pinned near the old bush. River sand, peat are introduced into the landing site, the day before, it is dug up so that the soil is light and loose. The cuttings are slightly spud and watered regularly, but they cannot be poured, excess moisture can cause root rot of the old bush and the death of the cutter.

After six months or a year, when the layers take root, they can be transplanted to the place where you plan to grow a new bush.

Reproduction of juniper by layering is most often used in relation to creeping forms of culture. The procedure is allowed throughout the growing season.

The procedure is as follows:

• The soil around the mother bush is intensively loosened, peat and river sand are added and watered abundantly.
• The lower part (20-25 cm) of healthy, recently ripened shoots, which are best suited for reproduction, are cleaned of needles.
• The exposed area is pressed against the soil surface and fixed with a wire pin.
• Part of the shoot in contact with the soil is sprinkled with a peat-sandy substrate.

Rooting of the cuttings will take about 6-8 months. During this time, it should be regularly watered and covered with damp soil. With the appearance of a young growth on the cut, the shoot can be separated from the mother bush and planted as an independent plant.

Juniper aphid appears on young shoots. During mass reproduction, aphids can harm young plants, since, sucking out the juice, they strongly oppress and weaken the plant, retard growth, cause curvature and twisting of damaged shoots.

On young cones and needles one can see rounded shields of females and elongated shields of males (up to 1-1.5 mm) of a juniper shield. In early June, larvae appear, which stick to the needles. The needles dry up and fall off, and young plants may die. Sucking the juice from the tissues of the bark, the larvae cause damage, leading to the death of the bark, drying out and curvature of the shoots, and a decrease in annual growth. Affects juniper, thuja, yew, cypress.

Small mosquitoes, no more than 2.2 mm, fly near plants, then their larvae appear - fusiform and covered with warts, up to 4 mm long, bright yellow, orange, or red. These are gall midges on juniper. The larvae secrete specific growth substances on the needles, under the influence of which the plant cells begin to grow rapidly and divide, turning into galls. The larvae live and winter in them.

The needles are entangled in thin sparse cobwebs, covered with yellowish spots, later turns brown and crumbles. Spruce spider mites and their larvae damage young plants: juniper, biota, prickly spruce, Canadian, common, and western thistle. During the summer, the female gives 3-4 generations. The mite inflicts the greatest harm on trees growing on dry soils in hot years. During the growing season, ticks form four to six generations, so the degree of damage increases by the end of summer.

A fast and productive way of reproduction of juniper and other members of the Cypress family is cuttings. Cutting young branches with subsequent rooting indoors can be done all year round, even in the harsh February.

Getting ready-made seedlings with strong roots is calculated according to the timing: if the planting material is needed for spring planting at the planned growing sites, then the collection of branches (cuttings) of juniper and rooting is carried out in January-February. By the autumn laying of the plantation, respectively - in the early summer. Coniferous species form roots for a long time, on average they appear on the 25th day in a juniper, so there is no need to rush with rooting time. Cuttings of coniferous species are an order of magnitude heavier and more voluminous than currant or grape "blanks", so they are cut no longer than 25 cm, and creeping juniper varieties are rooted obliquely.

It is advisable to harvest branches in the upper and middle parts of the bush, simultaneously forming the crown and thinning the thickened plant. Having collected the cuttings, the lower landing part is carefully rid of the needles with a clerical knife, trying not to damage the bark. It is better not to soak prepared shoots in root formation stimulants, since the tender bark of juniper quickly exfoliates in water and the overall productivity of the workpieces is lost. It is more advisable to first plant the cuttings in the substrate and then shed all the plantings with heteroauxin, sodium humate or the Zircon preparation, which will significantly increase the rate of root formation and the survival of the branches.

Juniper requires an acidic structure of the soil substrate, and if one is not available in home supplies, then needles cut from the bases of cuttings, river sand are added to ordinary soil and an increased dose of mineral dressing is added.

Place containers with plantings strictly under diffused daylight, otherwise the branches will burn out and die if you put them on sunny windows. Watering a rooting plantation is done rarely, remembering the intolerance of conifers to excess moisture. If possible, planting containers are fed with water through trays to prevent moisture stagnation and superficially irrigate juniper cuttings from a spray bottle.

In the spring, the rooted seedlings are transferred to an open, non-sunny area under a light frame greenhouse made of non-woven material, and the autumn take-out is placed in a prikop and the planting is mulched with a layer of wood chips mixed with peat and pine bark. In the spring planted planting material, the greenhouse is dismantled in August and the formed young juniper is placed on its planned sites. Autumn seedlings from the ditch after wintering are transferred to their permanent habitats in the first decade of summer.

Hello dear gardeners!

Let's take a closer look with you the main ways of reproduction of juniper on the site.

Juniper propagates by cuttings and seeds, just like thuja. But the multi-stemmed bush forms of own-rooted junipers also allow the division of the bush, though only at an early age.

The simplest is the seed method

Seeds are sown in late summer - early autumn immediately after they are harvested from berries that have begun to ripen. In fleshy cones, the shell must first be removed. The seed germination period is very long, about 12-13 months, so they are not sown directly into the ground.

Sowing is done in bowls filled with soil and having holes at the bottom for draining excess water (or in boxes lined with film, at the bottom of which holes are made in the film). The bowls (or boxes) are buried in the soil so that the edge of the bowl is slightly higher than the soil level, and after the snow falls, it is thrown onto the planting site. In the spring, the containers are brought into the greenhouse or room for seed germination.

During seed reproduction, splitting always occurs in the offspring, which is immediately visible during germination by the color of the needles, therefore, the seedlings are selected and the selected ones are immediately planted in place without any schools there for growing. But in this way it is impossible to determine the shape of the future crown, therefore, the seedlings will first have to be planted in pots that have a drainage hole at the bottom, and buried in the soil in a sunny place for growing for another couple of years, but not more, because junipers do not tolerate transplanting well ( except for creeping forms) over the age of three years.

Juniper propagation method by cuttings

Garden forms must be propagated by cuttings in order to preserve the varietal characteristics of the plant (crown shape, needles color). This is the most productive, but also the most time consuming method of breeding.

When grafting in spring (early May), last year's lignified shoots are used. When grafting in summer (early July) - semi-lignified shoots of this year. For cuttings, they take vertically growing shoots from plants with a vertical crown shape and thin lateral branches for a bushy crown shape.

1. It is necessary to prepare a sufficiently deep container with a drainage hole at the bottom and fill it with a wet mixture of peat and sand (3: 1), then bury it in the soil in partial shade.

2. Taking the stalk by its base at the very trunk, with a sharp upward movement, then tear down the stalk with a "heel" (a piece of bark).

3. From the lower third of the cutting, we cut off the branches, which contributes to better root formation, the needles do not rot on the cutting, which otherwise falls into the soil with branches. The wounds are quickly healed by the escaping resin.

4. Leave the needles on the upper branches, as they contribute to better aeration of the cutting.

5. We plant the cuttings in the hole made vertically, quite thickly according to the scheme 5 by 10 centimeters.

6. Cover the planting with 2-3 layers of lutrasil, hung on the arcs. It is undesirable to plant under the film, because under it there is poor ventilation and high temperatures can rise in summer (at temperatures above 25 degrees, the cuttings will die!).

7. It is necessary to monitor the humidity and temperature in the cuttings. The optimum temperature in spring before bud break is 15-18 degrees Celsius, and in summer after bud break is 20 degrees. In spring, at low temperatures, the cuttings can be additionally covered with foil. The soil should be constantly moist to the touch.

8. Twice a day open the cuttings and spray the cuttings with water. Once a week, add "Zircon" to the water (2 drops per 1 liter). The prepared solution cannot stand for more than 2 hours, so do not prepare it for future use.

In the same way, all conifers that can be cuttings are cuttings.

Creeping juniper forms are propagated by layering

The horizontal shoots closest to the soil are laid in shallow grooves in early spring (in April), having previously slightly scratched the bark on the lower part of the layers. Layers should be pinned to the soil with wooden slingshots. Sprinkle with wet peat. The ends of the layers must be tied vertically to the peg.

Now it remains to monitor the humidity of the dig site. To make things easier for yourself, you can cover this place with a piece of film that needs to be fixed. But it is easier and better to use well-moistened sphagnum moss (for example, from a cranberry swamp) for this.

An important point is the gradual, during the entire rooting time, pruning of the place of attachment of the layer to the mother plant.

Juniper breeding method by dividing the bush

By dividing the juniper bush, it can only be propagated at a young age. In the first decade of May, it is necessary to huddle the bush strongly in order to fill up the lower parts of the branches for the formation of adventitious roots. In the summer, you need the soil not to dry out.

In August, the bush should be dug up, the rooted branches should be separated from the mother plant and planted in containers, the volume of which is slightly larger than the root ball. The containers should have a drainage hole to drain excess water (remember, junipers do not tolerate waterlogging). It is best to dig them into the soil for wintering in a sunny place for the winter. Cover with a small layer of spruce branches for the winter. Next spring, carefully replant it without damaging the root ball.

Before planting, it is useful to hold junipers for 24 hours in a solution of any root-forming agent, in particular "", and in the first year of planting systematically (about 2 times a month) spray "Zircon". Let me remind you that ordinary honey is also a good root former, for this it is enough to dilute just one teaspoon of honey in a glass of water.

Like these ones ways of breeding juniper can be used. Remember that conifers take a long time to root! See you!