Double-glazed windows sweat what to do. Why do plastic windows fog up and what to do about it? Plastic windows "sweat" in the morning

With the onset of cold weather (and not only), many owners find small droplets of water on the windows - condensation. It appears from the temperature difference: it is warm in the room, but cold outside. Misted double-glazed windows are most often found in apartments, however, this problem can also appear in homes and offices. To understand why do plastic windows sweat Let us examine the possible reasons for the accumulation of moisture on the glass.

7 reasons why plastic windows sweat in an apartment

All the reasons for the accumulation of moisture on the windows can be roughly divided into two types: high humidity and strong temperature differences. Let's take a closer look at what problems lead to such situations.

The room is poorly or poorly ventilated. In apartments, ventilation ducts are located in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet. Check if ventilation ducts and grilles are clogged. If the air draft is insufficient, the air will not circulate well.

Attention! Any room with plastic windows must be ventilated for at least 30-60 minutes a day. This design alone does not provide air circulation. If it is very cold outside, use the micro ventilation mode.

Recently renovated... Building mixtures, mortars and glue can keep high humidity for another six months after repair. Over time, they dry out and the problem is solved by itself. Clean and ventilate rooms often to speed up the process.

Single-chamber double-glazed windows are standing... The owners of single-chamber bags more often than others have a question why plastic windows sweat and leak. The thinner the window, the colder it is. The thermal insulation is insufficient, so the window starts to "cry". If possible, install a double-glazed unit.

High air humidity... The wettest room with a window is the kitchen, because there we wash the dishes, prepare food, and wash. You can often see a fogged window in a room where the humidifier has been running for too long. This problem resolves quickly: cold air will quickly reduce humidity, so ventilate the room more often.

Windows are not switched to winter mode... In winter mode, the sash is pressed more tightly against the frame, therefore, it provides greater thermal insulation. Try to change the window mode, and it is quite possible that the question of why plastic windows sweat in winter will no longer bother you.

Incorrect installation or leakage... When the structure is made and installed poorly or poorly sealed slopes, the window is overcooled and begins to fog up. If you are sure that this is the problem, feel free to call the installers to fix the errors or replace the defective material.
The battery is far from the window or covered by a window sill. This can happen when the window is deeply recessed into the opening in order to increase the size of the window sill. The circulation of warm air is disrupted, which leads to the formation of moisture on the glass.

Why plastic windows sweat: what to do today and how to avoid tomorrow

The problem with foggy windows should not be postponed until later, because it can lead to other troubles. Limited light in the room, the formation of mold on the slopes and puddles on the windowsills are a consequence of constant moisture on the windows. To solve this problem, you need to determine why does the plastic window sweat from the inside, and eliminate the cause.

What to do if windows sweat.

If the problem is in the ventilation system, it must be clean or replace... If your apartment has good ventilation, but there is no draft, go to your neighbors. If they laid down their system, then they blocked the movement of air throughout the house.
Check the heating system... To prevent the window from fogging up, it is necessary to give warm air access to the window. If the battery does not heat well, clean the radiator or replace it. Normal room temperature should be about 20 degrees, humidity - 40-50%. If the batteries are not enough to maintain the temperature, use additional heat sources such as: an external heater, underfloor heating, an electric fireplace.

Reduce humidity... The apartment may be too humid, not only due to natural causes (kitchen life, air humidification), which are eliminated by regular ventilation, but also due to more serious ones. On the last floors, the roof often leaks, on the first floors, moisture accumulates in the basement and penetrates into the apartment. Until this is fixed, the windows will perspire.
Reduce the window sill... Replacing the sill will help open the radiator and optimize the flow of warm air.

Note! Often, thick curtains or a large number of flower pots on the windowsill interfere with the movement of warm air. Try removing or replacing curtains with light curtains. Flowers can be placed on special holders a little further from the window. This will prevent moisture from plants from entering the windows.

In modern apartments, PVC windows are increasingly being installed. They do not need mandatory insulation in autumn and painting in winter, and they also protect well from street noise and dust. At the same time, even such a high-quality design can cause certain inconveniences - fogging up, and quite a lot of condensate can appear. Let's see why plastic windows sweat from the inside and what to do about it.

Misted windows are not aesthetic, but this is not the main problem. The accumulation of moisture in this area, constant dampness provoke the appearance of fungus or mold - they can spread throughout the room. And this already poses a threat to both your fresh repairs and your health.

If the windows sweat inside the glass unit

If a double-glazed unit fogs up not outside, but between the glasses, then there can be only one reason - a marriage of double-glazed windows. This is the manufacturer's fault, since the glass unit must be airtight.

This problem is solved simply - by replacing the glass unit (only it, and not completely the entire window structure - the profile remains the same). A double-glazed window is installed for several minutes - for this, the glazing beads are removed. It is clear that this work should be carried out by specialists. In addition, if you contacted a qualified company, then the replacement of a defective leaky glass unit will be free - after all, this marriage is covered by a guarantee (it must be spelled out in the contract).

If the windows are constantly fogging up, then the reason for this may be single-chamber double-glazed window... Experts generally do not recommend using them in living quarters, since they do not retain heat well enough. This happens due to the fact that only one interlayer is provided in the profile, as well as due to the minimum distance between the glasses. Saving is not welcome here, especially since the service life of high-quality plastic windows is measured in decades.

Types of double-glazed windows

Reasons for fogging plastic windows

There can be many reasons why plastic windows sweat from the inside. And to fix the problem, you can't do without identifying the reasons. So, the problem may arise due to:

How to eliminate fogging of plastic windows - we solve the problem

To prevent plastic windows from fogging up, a number of preventive measures can be taken. So, if the window is already installed and the problem does not bother you very much, then follow two simple steps:

Remove any houseplant pots from the windowsill. Plants and moist soil both cause condensation.
Ventilate the apartment regularly - especially if the humidity in it temporarily rises for some reason.

If you are just planning to install a plastic window, then immediately check that all work is carried out carefully and in accordance with the technology:

choose the minimum 2-chamber glass unit high quality, ideally with an energy-saving film. The best option is considered to be a vacuum glass unit;
carry out quality work on insulation of slopes: polyurethane foam is carefully sealed both inside and outside the room, and then a suitable insulation is added;
the place of attachment of the ebb is also covered with cement and insulated with foam;
the place where excess foam protrudes from under the windowsill is also carefully putty - this eliminates the effect of cold in this area.

As you can see, there are two main reasons why condensation collects on plastic windows - either incorrectly carried out work on the installation of a metal-plastic structure or its marriage (wear), or too high humidity in the room. So if you choose a quality product and check the correct installation, then there is a high probability that the windows will not fog up. And if you also ensure the observance of the temperature regime and high-quality ventilation of the balcony, then the problem will be finally solved - you will forget about unpleasant drips on the glass and dampness.

Why do plastic windows sweat video

We invite you to watch a video on the topic of the article "Why do plastic windows fog up and what to do?". The video tells about the causes of condensation and how to eliminate it.

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What to do if plastic windows sweat: causes and possible solutions

Greetings, comrades!

Plastic windows are the de facto standard today. They are installed in new buildings; wooden windows in the apartments of the old fund are being massively changed on them. However, in the very first winter, a significant part of the owners is faced with an unexpected problem: condensation appears on the surface of the glasses, frames, and sometimes on the slopes of the window. This article is about the causes of the phenomenon and methods of dealing with it.

What's happening

First, about why plastic windows sweat in winter.

Ventilation is important

I'll start from afar.

In modern houses, the ventilation system is often made supply or supply and exhaust. If the building is equipped with exhaust ventilation only, then air intake grilles are located in each room. I emphasize - in each... However, this was not always the case.

Most of the housing stock in our country is Soviet-built houses. Ventilation in them was only exhaust, and the grilles of the ventilation ducts were located only in the kitchen and the bathroom (in the presence of a separate bathroom, in the bathroom and in the toilet).

How were the living rooms ventilated and how was the air flow through the grilles compensated by the inflow? Quite simply: the wooden frames were not airtight. It was the gaps between the sashes and boxes that ensured the flow, and the slow circulation of air from the windows to the exhaust grilles provided ventilation of all rooms.

The reader may reasonably argue that the frames were compacted for the winter. However, they were sealed with air-permeable materials - cotton wool and foam rubber. In addition, even then the excess moisture condensed on the glass, however, due to the much worse thermal insulating ability of the two-strand glazing in comparison with a sealed glass unit, it froze, forming beautiful patterns on the glass.

Now imagine what will happen if you replace all the wooden windows in the apartment with reinforced plastic ones.

Let me remind you: PVC windows are closed absolutely hermetically thanks to two contours of the rubber seal - on the box and on the opening sash.

The air inflow is completely eliminated;
Air circulation through the apartment stops;
The oxygen content in the air drops - we do not stop breathing while consuming it;

The atmosphere is saturated with unpleasant odors, humidity increases;
Since the thermal conductivity of the air increases after the humidity, the feeling of discomfort increases - heat causes profuse sweating, and a slight cooling of the air causes a feeling of constant cold;
Finally, at a certain concentration of water vapor, the temperature of the glass, and after them, of the window frames and slopes, reaches the dew point: condensation begins to fall on them. Often, the corners of the outer walls with insufficient heat-insulating ability also begin to dampen. Following the dampness, its faithful companion, the fungus, quickly tightens.

Glass unit tightness

Why windows sweat - plastic or any other that provide absolute tightness - we figured out. Why do plastic windows fog up inside a glass unit?

The mechanism of condensation is the same: water vapor begins to settle on a cold surface. However, there are a couple of nuances:

If perspiration appears in the glass unit, this indicates its leakage. This defect is an unconditional defect and must be eliminated by the window manufacturer at its own expense by replacing or rebuilding the glass unit;
Condensation between the glasses will begin to appear at the first frost, even with normal humidity in the apartment. Simply because the temperature of the glass on which it settles is much lower than that of the inner surface of a sealed glass unit.

Temperature

Sometimes the reason for the appearance of condensation is simply too low the temperature in the room. Glasses do not heat up and, as a result, become a place of condensation of atmospheric moisture even with normal humidity in the room.

Eliminating the problem

What to do if plastic windows in an apartment or in a house fog up?

The problem is solved in a complex way:

Ventilation is organized of all premises, reducing the level of humidity in them to a comfortable 60-80%;
The temperature in the rooms rises. Its norms are spelled out in the current SNiP:

A thermal curtain is arranged in front of the windows. Simply put, the battery under the windowsill should be as long as the entire window.

What to do if the corners of the room are sweating and flowing? The same: ventilation is provided, the room warms up to a higher temperature in general; an additional heater is installed in the freezing corner.

Now - in more detail about what to do to avoid sweating windows, corners and slopes.

Ventilation

If you are just going to order a plastic window, ask to equip it with fittings with a micro-ventilation system. This is a function that allows you to flip the sash in transom mode by 3-5 millimeters and fix it by turning the handle. Such a gap between the sash and the frame is sufficient for ventilation, but will exclude significant heat loss and cold drafts.

How to fix ventilation problems if the window is already installed?

Equip its frame with an inlet valve. The cost of this simple device varies from 800 to 2500 rubles. As a rule, the valve allows regulation of the inflow with a simple mechanical damper.

With the same success, the supply valve can be installed under a window, in a niche with a radiator. This option is attractive in that the cold supply air from the street will immediately mix with the warm air that rises from the battery.

Captain Evidence suggests: alas, to install such a valve with your own hands, you will have to work with a hammer drill with a long drill. Dust cleaning after drilling the wall is also required.

Another simple solution is to install a window retainer on the window from the inside in the apartment. The price of a plastic comb retainer is quite affordable 100 - 150 rubles, its installation takes no more than five minutes. Throwing the comb over the counterpart of the retainer, you can open the flap by the same cherished 3-5 millimeters.

In the photo there is a window retainer-comb.

Finally, the simplest way to solve the ventilation problem is to remove part of the seal on the sash and frame. Two gaps of 3-5 cm are enough for the air in the room to begin to renew itself. A couple of nuances:

Areas without a seal on the frame and on the sash should be spaced as far apart as possible. Thus, we exclude cold drafts (the air will be heated, bending around the sash) and a violation of sound insulation;
The seal on the frame is cut from the bottom, and on the inward opening sash - from the top. The movement of air from the bottom up will filter out the dust: it will settle between the frames.

Heating

Now - about how to raise the temperature in the apartment.

To begin with, it's worth measuring it. If you have the heating devices provided for by the project, the windows are insulated, and the sanitary standards for temperature are still not met, contact the housing organization serving your house.

In the worst case, drawing up an act will allow you to achieve a recalculation of heating payments. However, more often than not, tenants do everything possible to solve the problem:

Radiators are flushed (including through their own flush valve);
Install additional sections;
The diameter of the nozzle in the elevator unit is increased, thereby increasing the temperature of the water mixture entering the radiators from the supply and return pipelines of the heating main;

In emergency cases, with a large number of complaints about heat, even the operation of the elevator without a nozzle, with a muffled suction, is practiced.

At the same time, the temperature of the batteries can reach 130 - 140 degrees, which obviously exceeds the heat resistance of any polymer and metal-polymer pipes. That is why they absolutely should not be used in central heating systems.

How can you raise the temperature yourself?

Compare the temperature of the first and last battery sections. If the last section is noticeably colder, it is likely that the radiator needs flushing. Flushing taps are usually installed in summer, outside the heating season; in winter, a hose is connected to the tap, the other end of which is directed to (for example, inserted as deep as possible into the toilet).

Often, the reason that a multi-compartment battery gives off little heat is due to its incorrect connection. The traditional side connection scheme is effective only when the number of sections is no more than a dozen. If there are 15 or 20 of them, the radiator must be connected diagonally or from bottom to bottom.

The bottom-down connection also attracts the fact that with such a scheme, the radiator does not need to be flushed. All sludge will be carried away by the water circulating through the lower collector.

If two risers located next to each other pass through the room, compare their temperature. If the idle riser (without heating devices) is noticeably hotter, hang the battery on it, and install a jumper on the second riser instead. Switching your heater from return to supply will have a minimal effect on the temperature of the neighbors' batteries, but yours will become much warmer.

Typically, an idle riser is a feed. Radiators are connected to the return riser by default.

The battery must never be connected between risers. It will get warmer here, but all the neighbors above you will begin to freeze. Very soon they will come to visit you and begin to speak unflattering words to you.

Install a valve on the jumper between the connections to the radiator to close it. With the jumper closed, all the water circulating in the riser will go through the battery, which will allow you to gain a few more degrees. You should not completely remove the jumper: it will allow you to remove the radiator without stopping the riser (of course, if there are cut-off valves on the connections).

With the same number of sections, a modern bimetallic radiator has about a quarter more heat transfer compared to a cast-iron battery. Taking into account silting and rust in the sections, the effect of replacement may increase.

Finally, there is nothing stopping you from increasing the number of sections. For this you will need:

The sections themselves with a pair of additional nipples (steel or cast iron pipes with opposite threads);
Two gaskets (rubber or silicone). If you don't find them on sale, the spacers can be easily cut out of an old car or bicycle camera. Their outer size should be slightly less than the size of the ends of the section headers;
Gas key # 3-# 4;
Radiator wrench, which is a steel bar with a flat blade at the end. It engages with the lugs on the inner surface of the nipple and allows it to be unscrewed from the threads in the sections.

Here are instructions for installing additional sections.

Disconnect and reset the corresponding heating riser;

If the supply and return outlets are located in the basement, the risers are connected in pairs by a jumper on the upper floor. Both must be disabled and reset. If the filler is placed in the attic, the only riser is turned off; its shut-off valves are located in the attic and in the basement.

We unscrew the blind plugs from the radiator. You need to rotate them clockwise: reverse thread, left;
We bait nipples with gaskets into the threads at the end of the battery;

We press new sections to the nipples. They should face the old radiator with a right-hand thread. The thread direction is easy to see by tracing the extreme thread;
We insert the radiator key into the upper collector of the extreme section to a depth equal to the total length of the new sections. We turn it counterclockwise together with the nipple until its thread engages the thread on the section closest to it;
We repeat the operation with the second nipple;
We screw in the nipples one turn at a time in order to avoid skewing and jamming of the thread;
We tighten the nipples all the way with a gas wrench;
We screw in the pre-wound blind radiator plugs. As a guide, I recommend using sanitary linen with any quick-drying paint;

We fill the heating riser and check the connections for leaks;
In the case of a lower filling, we go to the upper floor and ask the neighbors in the riser to bleed the air.

Heat curtain: my experience

In my house, inverter air conditioners are used as heating devices: at winter temperatures, which almost never drop below -15 degrees, they work all year round.

The problem of a heat curtain in front of the windows is solved very simply: the indoor unit is located on the side wall so that the flow of warm air blows parallel to the window. There is no condensation, the glass remains dry even in rare frosts.

Conclusion

I hope that I was able to answer all the questions of interest to the dear reader. To learn more about what windows sweat from and how to deal with this phenomenon, the video in this article will help. Please feel free to share your own experiences in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

Condensation inside a glass unit often occurs during the cold season. The windows become cloudy, streaks and stains appear on them. The most inconvenient thing about this is that the construction of plastic windows does not allow wiping out moisture between the panes. However, there are ways to help you deal with the problem.

Why do plastic windows fog up inside a glass unit?

Condensation inside the glass unit makes the window cloudy, impairs visibility

The insulating glass unit sweats inside between the glasses for two reasons: depressurization and improper installation. In both cases, it will be difficult to do without the help of professionals.

Depressurization

If drops of moisture are formed almost from the moment of installation, then you have installed a defective window. Contact the manufacturer to have the glass unit replaced.

The tightness is broken due to damage. If, after an accidental hit on the glass, no noticeable cracks even formed, but moisture began to collect inside, then it's time to take action. The same happens if decor is inaccurately attached to the surface or blinds are nailed directly to the frame. In such cases, the tightness is easily broken, and the plastic window sweats inside the glass unit.

The only way out in case of depressurization is to contact specialists who will replace the damaged product.

Incorrect installation

Some manufacturers add an insufficient amount of silica gel between the glasses, the main task of which is to absorb moisture. As a result, condensation begins to accumulate inside.

If the design as a whole is skewed, then you got an unscrupulous editor. While the warranty has not expired, hurry up to take advantage of the free replacement of the double-glazed window.

Poor quality fittings can also cause high humidity.

To prevent the windows from sweating from the inside, order the manufacture and installation of a trusted company, with extensive experience and good reviews.

Other reasons why insulating glass units sweat

Drying clothes in an apartment causes high humidity, due to which condensation appears on the windows

Most often, windows “cry” because of faulty ventilation. But this is not the only reason for the appearance of drops and streaks on the surface.

If you are tired of constantly removing dampness from the glass, check if there are any such problems in the room:

Increased humidity that occurs when drying clothes or preparing food.
Temperature contrast between the room and the street: it is very cold outside, but inside the batteries are barely warm. This means that the windows do not warm up and condensation forms on them.
Features of the structure of the window sill. Expansion blocks the flow of heat to the window. Double-glazed windows fog up inside even with hot batteries.
Renovation in the apartment or on the balcony. Finishing materials release moisture during drying, as a result of which condensation forms inside the window opening.
Violation of the technology of insulation of external and internal slopes.

Most causes of fogging windows can be dealt with on your own by simply fixing them. The rest will have to be fought with the help of specialists.

How to prevent the insulating glass unit from fogging up at the installation stage

Insulate the window slopes with foam from the outside so that the glass unit does not sweat

Solving the problem of crying windows is more difficult than preventing it. Therefore, consider everything else during installation. Some tips will help with this:

Choose a high quality 2-chamber glass unit, vacuum. Energy saving film will not interfere.
Insulate the slopes with polyurethane foam. There should be no cracks inside and outside.
Lubricate the ebb attachment area with a cement mixture and insulate with foam.
Putty the places where the polyurethane foam protrudes from under the windowsill. This will prevent the penetration of cold and drafts.

If condensation persists, ventilate the room frequently.

Do not put flower pots on windowsills, as watering, wet soil, and the plants themselves cause increased fogging of the glass in the window opening.

What to do when a glass unit sweats from the inside

Install convection grilles on a wide window sill to prevent the window from sweating

The problem will repeat itself if you do not take action in time. All this will lead to such breakdowns that in the end it will be necessary to replace the entire structure. To prevent this, you just need to use the windows correctly:

If it is not cold outside, they can be constantly kept in the “airing” mode.
Turn on the extractor hood when cooking.
Install convection grilles on wide window sills.
Check the functionality of the fittings regularly.
In cold weather, transfer the structure to the “winter” mode.

Check the ventilation system periodically. A sheet of paper should be attracted to the grate in the wall, if this does not happen, then the ventilation is clogged.

Means to help remove condensation

Moisture droplets can be simply wiped off. But to make them appear less often, you need to use special formulations.

Li-lo anti-freeze and anti-fog agent can be purchased at a household and detergent store. Apply it to the glass surface first in a concentrated form, and then diluted. The ideal proportion is 1 part concentrate and 10 parts water. You do not need to wash off this product.

To eliminate internal condensation, you can use the Secunda preparation in the form of an aerosol. Spray it on the glass and wipe dry with crumpled newspaper.

Folk methods

Place burning candles on the windowsill to normalize air circulation in the room.

Home remedies can be used to remove condensation from the surface of windows.

Wipe the glass several times a month with a mixture of alcohol and glycerin, in a ratio of 20: 1. To reduce moisture buildup, paint a thick mesh over the surface with a bar of soap, then rub to a shine.

Place thick decorative candles on the windowsill and light them. Within a few hours of burning, the air circulation in the room will return to normal and condensation will no longer appear.

Traditional methods are a temporary measure. They are easy to use and accessible, but they will not solve the problem globally.

Prevention of fogging of windows

To prevent fogging of windows inside between frames, you need to monitor their condition. Regular maintenance and rinsing will reduce the chance of condensation forming.

In addition, several preventive measures must be taken:

ventilate the room regularly;
wash the glass unit once a month;
keep the window ajar;
insulate the slopes with a high-quality sealant;
use a cooker hood in the kitchen;
monitor the health of ventilation.

Compliance with preventive measures will help reduce the formation of condensation inside the glass unit.

If the use of different means gives only a temporary effect, most likely the matter is in the incorrect installation of the double-glazed windows themselves. In this case, a solution to the problem can be found only after a complete diagnosis of the window structure.