Installation of internal slopes of plastic windows. We give an aesthetic and finished look to new window structures: everything about do-it-yourself slopes for plastic windows. Plasterboard for slopes

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Installation of slopes of plastic windows

Among the numerous firms for the installation of plastic windows and doors, it is very difficult to find those that would immediately deal with the slopes. For the time spent on finishing the slopes for one opening, company employees can install 4-5 windows and get much more money. And some types of slopes cannot be made within one day, the technology requires time for solidification and drying of the material, this further discourages them from engaging in such services. In addition, the very need to install slopes changes the algorithm of action of the "installers" of plastic windows. They must take out old windows very carefully so as not to create large destruction of the existing finish, carefully think over the specific place of installation of the frame, taking into account the thickness and material of the walls. No slopes - no problem, here is the method of installing plastic windows by company employees.

Another nuisance for window installers - if you make the slopes yourself, then you need to control the distance between the frame and the window opening. In this way, the further installation of decorative elements of the window opening can be facilitated. And an ordinary installation requires from them only drilling four holes for dowels in the vertical walls of the opening, fixing the frame under the level and foaming the cracks. After that, the craftsmen receive their money, and the owner is forced to hire another team of builders to finish the windows or do it on their own.

Important. If the windows are installed by company employees, then be sure to require them to thoroughly clean the surfaces of the window opening from dust and dirt, and moisten them abundantly with water before foaming.

In most cases, such work is not done, the strength of fixing the structure is significantly reduced. In the future, under the influence of wind loads or during opening / closing, the cocoon of the frame loosens a little, cracks appear near the slopes and frames you made. It is useless to eliminate them; to eliminate the marriage, you will have to strengthen the frame fasteners. In terms of labor intensity, these works are no different from the installation of plastic windows. In essence, you will have to redo the work for which the money has already been paid.

Only inexperienced developers might think that there is no difference between interior and exterior slopes. It exists, and it is quite substantial. Understanding the features of the arrangement of external slopes will make it possible to avoid mistakes, improve their appearance and increase the operating time.

As you can see, the installation of external slopes is not such a simple matter, work very carefully and carefully.

Prices for platbands and accessories for windows and doors

Platbands and extensions for windows and doors

Preparatory work

So, the plastic window is installed, the foam is frozen. The factory-made plastic wrap on the frames and sashes has not been removed. If it is not there, then you will have to take measures to protect surfaces from pollution and mechanical damage.

We will consider several options for making external slopes for plastic windows, starting with the most practical and reliable ones - from a cement-sand mortar.

Plastering slopes on brick houses

Before starting work, decide what kind of ebb tide will be: galvanized iron or standard plastic.

The algorithm of its installation depends on the material of manufacture. The frame of plastic windows has a special groove in the lower part, an ebb must be inserted into it. "Cash in" it and see at what angle it lies, at what distance from the walls. Make marks, they will come in handy when plastering the lower slope.

Remove the same dimensions on the sides and on top of the opening, find out the required thickness of the plaster. The larger it is, the more difficult it will be to make the slope. After taking measurements, analyzing the condition and developing a production scheme, you can start plastering the slopes.

Prepare a cement-sand mixture based on a part of cement, approximately 2.5–3 parts of sand, but no more. The solution must be greasy, otherwise it will begin to crumble with repeated freezing / thawing. You will have to redo everything or use various methods of protecting surfaces. In addition, an increased amount of cement increases the coefficient of adhesion of the mortar to the walls, which is very important for slopes.

Step 1. Protect the surface of glass units from contamination. Use plastic wrap and tape for this. Close all places where the mass might fall. Stick the adhesive tape firmly so that the film does not fall off during operation.

Step 2. Cut off the foam that has protruded beyond the planes of the frame. If there are large gaps after foaming, close them up. You can use mortar or various sealants. Cut off the foam with a sharp knife in continuous movements, do not allow breaks. The better the insulation, the less heat loss. But that's not all. If cold bridges are formed along the perimeter of the frame, then condensation appears on the slopes, which causes the growth of fungi and mold. Microorganisms not only negatively affect building structures and materials, but can also cause various allergic reactions.

Step 3... Prepare your tools. You will need a grout, a trowel, a plumb line or level, dowels, a spray gun, or a brush to wet the surfaces with water.

Working tools

Craftsmen often mention a bevel for slopes. We need to dwell on this topic in more detail. What is malka and what is it used for?

Malka is a tool with which you can level the plaster at various angles. We have already said that the slopes need to be done at obtuse angles, due to this, the clearance of the window opening increases. You can buy a malka ready-made in a store, make it yourself, or replace it with an elementary device.

The standard bead consists of two metal strips connected by a hinge. After selecting the desired angle, the strips in the hinge are clamped with a screw. It can also be done from wooden planks, but it takes a long time, for one-time work it makes no sense to waste so much time for several windows.

If there is an irresistible desire to level the corners of the slopes with the help of a bevel, then you can make it from one board. One end is cut at the desired angle, it will abut against the window frame. The second part of the stick slides along a guide board fixed to the wall. But there is another way to maintain the desired slope angle, which is used by all professionals. We will explain below how they work. We assure you that this method allows you to achieve excellent quality without wasting time at all making a bean or a special device.

It is advisable to first sprinkle the surface with cement-sand milk. This is the same solution, only very liquid. The milk will do two things: it will moisten very dry bricks and will increase the adhesion of the plaster to the surface.

Step 5. Install the guide rail on the wall. To do this, you need to fix a thin board with absolutely flat sides on the wall above the window opening. The side edge of the board should be horizontal, fasten with dowels, then the holes in the wall will be sealed without problems. Fasten it securely, it should not stagger and, moreover, fall off. One end of the rule will slide across the board.

Step 6. If you need to apply thick plaster, then this should be done in several stages. Sketch the first layer about 2–3 cm thick, let it dry a little. Then throw on the second layer and so on until about a centimeter remains before the final leveling of the slope. Cover the mortar with the back of the trowel, only putting it on will ensure that all gaps on the surface are completely filled.

Important. Beginners often fail to throw in, it's not scary, learn, after a while experience will appear. But never try to spread the solution on the surface, nothing will come of this venture. You can only slightly grease the grooves obtained after throwing on. But this is not how professionals work. They always throw on, and for different purposes they take a different amount of solution.

Step 7. You can level the mass with a small or ordinary bar. We have already talked about malka, now we will tell you how professionals work. They prepare an ordinary flat rail, the length should exceed the width of the slope by about 10 cm. As for the width, there is a special requirement: it should not exceed the width of the gap from the sash to the end of the window frame. Further, the leveling of the solution on the upper slope is done as follows:

• one end of the rail butt rests against the frame, the side edge is tightly pressed against the sash. The other end of the rail will slide on the board;
• slowly zigzag movements move the rail along the board and sash, the mass protruding beyond the thickness of the slope is leveled;
• in a place where there is a gap between the sashes, remove the rail from one sash and install it on the next. Do not worry that after rearranging it, a small tubercle will remain, it is smoothed out with a grater without any problems.

Step 8. After the excess mass is pulled together by the rail, grooves of various parameters will inevitably remain on the surface. Large ones must be repaired with a trowel. Take a little mass on a plywood stand, take small portions with the back of the trowel and fill in the holes. The mass must be glued with effort. Keep the plywood under the patch, any excess weight will fall onto it.

Step 9. Wait 40-50 minutes for the solution to harden. Once it is a little stronger, start working with the trowel. Do not use too much force, work in a circular motion, constantly check the position of the working surface of the trowel (grout). If the solution has hardened strongly, moisten it with water. Work carefully in the corners of the slopes. You can correct the corners with a trowel or a spatula, there is no difference. Use the tools that are more familiar and easier to work with.

Prices for mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Mixes for leveling walls and ceilings

Now you can go to the vertical slopes. Reinstall the ebb before finishing the side ones. The installation technology depends on the selected type. But for all cases, one condition must be observed - the protruding part of the ebb must fit tightly into a special seat on the frame of the plastic window. Take all measures to prevent water from glass units from getting into the space between the frame and the ebb. For a guarantee, you can coat the seat with silicone.

Step 1. Install the ebb in place, on the side surfaces of the window opening, mark the place of its position on the upper surface. Do not forget that the ebb must be installed at an angle for a reliable drainage of water.

Step 2. Remove it, with a cement-sand mass, level the lower slope to the level of the marked lines. While working, use the same tools with which you worked on the upper slope. It is not necessary to achieve special cleanliness of the surface, it will close anyway.

Step 3. After the mass hardens, install the ebb over the window. Cover it with a cloth or plastic film against possible dirt or damage.

Now you can start finishing the side surfaces of the slopes. The workflow algorithm is almost the same. First, the boards are installed on the sides, the position is leveled with a level or plumb line. Next, the solution is thrown, the alignment is always done from the bottom up, so less mass falls on the ebb. It lingers on the surface of the rule and is thrown into a container.

Finishing works

On the second day, you can remove the guide boards. Remove the retaining nails or dowels, do not open the rail towards you, but carefully pull it away from the slopes, press it firmly against the wall. This will help to avoid chipping of the fresh plaster.

There will certainly be small gaps under the board, cover them with a trowel, level the surfaces with grout. After the slopes are completely dry, the surfaces can be painted with facade water-based paint (white or colored) or decorative plaster can be made with the same material as on the facade walls.

Plastic slopes

The variant is not common, but it has the right to life. The use of plastic slopes makes it possible to complete the production of slopes in one day. We do not recommend doing them for one reason - the service life of plastic slopes is about 15 years, do you really want to engage in construction work again after this time? Slopes are made of plastic panels for external work, the color and texture should be in harmony with the appearance of the facade walls of the building.

A supporting frame must be made for plastic slopes. It can be made from rolled metal or wooden slats. There is no fundamental difference, lumber is reliably protected from the effects of atmospheric precipitation, the service life is the same as that of metal. We will consider making the simplest version of the frame - from wooden slats.

Step 1. Select the slats of the required length and thickness. They should fit into the space between the wall and the window frame. If necessary, correct the surface of the wall or reduce the thickness of the battens in some places. The slats must be fixed along the perimeter of the slope: at the bottom and at the top and on both sides of the opening. If the plastic windows are large, then put in addition several slats on all planes. Pre-fix them with liquid nails, fill the cracks with polyurethane foam. After the foam hardens, the slats can be fixed to the wall with several dowels to increase stability. But it is not necessary to do this, the frame will hold very firmly as it is. The foam that comes out after hardening will be cut off.

Step 2. Install guide boards on the walls on top and on both sides of the opening. How this is done is described above.

Step 3. Replace the ebb. Installation technology depends on the type of product.

Step 4. Check the position of the timber frame. All rails must lie in the same plane, side, bottom and top slopes at an angle. Observe the verticality of the side slopes.

Step 5... Take the exact measurements, prepare plastic panels and decorative corners.

Practical advice. It is better to start installing the panels from the fixing side. At this point, the panels have a beautiful rounding, nothing will have to be repaired. Cut a thin plastic strip to which the staples or nails are fixed, and press this edge against the frame.

Step 6. Measure and cut each panel separately. You can cut it with an assembly knife, an electric jigsaw or a grinder. It is best to do this operation on a machine for cutting ceramic tiles - the angle is precisely adjusted, the cut is obtained with a perfectly even "factory" cut.

Step 7. Fix the plastic slopes with a stapler, small nails or self-tapping screws in the place provided by the manufacturer. Press the panels firmly, do not leave gaps. If the window is large, then the slope is additionally glued to the wooden transverse battens with liquid nails.

Step 8. Close the corners with decorative corners, fix them with liquid nails. Cut the corners at the joints at an angle of 45 °.

This option for making slopes is best used if the whole house is finished with plastic panels. Even during wall finishing work, provide for the possibility of making a frame for slopes.

Council of professionals. It is very difficult for novice craftsmen to cut the corners exactly at an angle of 45 °, there is always a gap at the junction points. Of course, it can be covered with a sealant or silicone, but the correction is noticeable, the appearance deteriorates. We recommend cutting only one corner at a 45 ° angle, and the other at a 90 ° angle. From the corner at 45 °, the lower area of ​​the square is cut off, and the thin upper one overlaps the cut at 90 °. This technique completely eliminates the likelihood of gaps formation, there are no joints, the elements overlap. At whatever angle you cut, the cut is always positioned on the bottom whole area.

Prices for plastic slopes

Plastic slopes

How to mount slopes on special profiles

To make a slope, you will need plastic profiles and sandwich panels.

The dimensions of the panels are selected taking into account the parameters of the window. During the installation process, pieces are cut from the whole panel according to the dimensions of the vertical and horizontal slopes. You can cut with a grinder with a disc for metal, an electric jigsaw, an assembly knife or other tools. If burrs are formed during cutting, then they are removed with the edge of a knife or with a sandpaper.

Step 1. The plastic U-shaped profile is screwed along the perimeter of the window frame. Check the horizontal and vertical position carefully. The ends of plastic slopes are installed in this profile. Use small self-tapping screws to fix it.

Important. It must be remembered that the violation of the integrity of the metal profile of the window frame with self-tapping screws negatively affects its performance.

First, fix the two extreme self-tapping screws, after checking the position of the element, screw in the fasteners every 15–20 cm.

Step 2. Check the dimensions are correct. All is well - insert the slope into the profile. Use a piece of plastic to make work easier. Insert it into the gap between the panel and the profile and gradually move it along the panel, press on the end. The element will fit into the groove along its entire length without much effort.

Step 3. Stick a strip of masking tape on the other (free) end of the slope and leave loose pieces. With their help, it will then be fixed to the wall before foaming. The scotch tape will prevent the slopes from bending under the influence of the expanding foam.

Step 4. Carefully seal the gap between the slope and the wall, set the elements in a horizontal position and fix its position with free pieces of tape. Remember to wet the surfaces. Water not only improves adhesion, but also accelerates foam hardening.

Polyurethane sealant prices

Polyurethane sealant

Step 5. Cut off excess foam pieces. Install decorative corners or platbands depending on the material and technology for finishing the external walls.

That's all, according to the same algorithm, you can trim all the remaining plastic windows, regardless of their size and method of opening / closing.

Wooden slopes

Such slopes are installed on houses made of rounded logs without additional external cladding or on houses made of ordinary timber, the external walls of which are finished with natural clapboard.

For the street, you can use two options for slopes: from natural lining or furniture board. The furniture board is made of glued boards - the likelihood of deformations under the influence of atmospheric precipitation is excluded. Wide boards will definitely warp and will not work. If they are firmly fixed on the frame, then there will be no warping, but very deep cracks are formed. In this regard, it is not recommended to use them as a material for the manufacture of slopes. For example, we will consider an option from a furniture board with a thickness of about 1 cm.

Step 1. Take measurements, cut off the slope blanks along them. Do everything with maximum precision, furniture panels are expensive. Use only serviceable and adjusted tools, observe safety precautions. Woodworking machines and tools belong to the category of the most dangerous mechanisms, the injuries from them are very serious. The sketch of the slopes can be quite complex, all sides at different angles, etc. If you have little experience in sizing, make a template out of cardboard. Resize it several times until it looks good. Using a template, cut out the side and top slopes for each PVC window.

Step 2. Install the low tide, do not forget to make the slope. To increase the strength under the drain, it is recommended to make a frame. For manufacturing, it is better to use slats 20 × 50 mm, be sure to soak them with an antiseptic. If not, dry the slats well in a warm room or under a fan and cover several times with ordinary vegetable oil, it perfectly protects against putrefactive processes.

Step 3... Try on the slope, install it end-to-end in the gap between the frame of the plastic window and the wall. Level up its position.

Step 4. Secure the wooden slope in place. To do this, you need small screws or studs and trimming strips about ten centimeters long. Beam the slats to the slope and the frame, always at the top and bottom, the distance between the fixing points is no more than 20 cm. Strong fastening is a prerequisite for the next operation.

Step 5. Use a spray bottle to moisten well the gap between the slope and the wall. Cover it with polyurethane foam. If the width of the slope is large, then you will have to foam in two steps. To prevent the foam from bending the wooden slope, we made it securely fixed with slats.

Step 6. After hardening, cut off the remaining foam, check the strength of the fixing of the slopes. Practice shows that you no longer need to do any additional fastenings.

Step 7. Prepare platbands. Wooden slopes must be trimmed with platbands. Nail them to the slopes with studs or self-tapping screws, the attachment points can be putty.

When choosing plastic materials for slopes, be sure to pay attention to UV resistance. Never work with plastic for indoor use, it is absolutely unsuitable for street slopes.

Metal porch: installation instructions Window drips

The owners of apartments and private houses who have installed plastic windows often have a desire to streamline the surfaces of window openings. This is often required due to damage to old slopes when dismantling previous windows. The decoration of the slopes is also carried out to enhance the heat and sound insulation of window openings.

Decorating the slopes of your plastic windows can be done in several ways. Each has its own pros and cons, and can be carried out with the participation of a heater. For the decoration of window openings, PVC panels, drywall or plaster can be used together with a mixture for putty.

Slopes from panels for plastic windows are very easy to fix with your own hands. For this, plastic lining and additional fittings are used, which are designed to hide the joints between the panels horizontally and vertically, and the gaps in the lines in which they are adjacent to the window frame.

PVC panels are a popular way of finishing window openings

In addition to lining, residents often use sandwich panels made specifically for finishing window openings. The panels are made of several smooth plastic layers with expanded polystyrene between them. Installation of slopes made of this material will become a little easier, because you do not have to separately fasten the insulation. This method also allows you to do without the use of some parts of the fittings.

Along with ordinary plastic clapboard, sandwich panels will help you quickly and accurately arrange windows with your own hands. You can always choose not only the thickness, but also the color of the finish. Correctly selected shade will help to highlight the window openings against the background of the general interior of the room.

Before installing the products, as in the case of other types of finishes, you need to carefully study the instructions and adhere to them throughout the entire work.

Plastering on the surface of window openings is considered to be a traditional finishing method. Correctly applied material can last a long time without losing its original appearance. At the same time, do not forget that "bare" plaster will not give residents protection from the cold, and in this case it is not possible to install heat-insulating materials. Among the disadvantages of this method is the duration of finishing work, since the material must be applied in several layers, each of which must dry completely. To make such internal slopes for your plastic windows, you need to have experience with plaster. Otherwise, you risk making a mistake and ruining the entire opening.

Plastering is a rather "dirty" event. When working with this material, you will be forced to clean the room almost daily or not use it at all for several weeks.

Often, property owners use drywall for finishing. Installing slopes on plastic windows made of this material is quite simple. The cladding will last a long time, and thanks to the insulation, it will not allow cold air to seep into the room. At its core, drywall is a dry plaster, but its installation will take much less time and effort. This method does not involve stains on windows or wall finishes, and does not require any experience. It is sufficient to follow the instructions given by the manufacturer.

There are several types of drywall on the market today. The highest quality material is considered to be green with the marking "GKLV". It is resistant to high humidity.

The only drawback of this method is considered to be possible complications when finishing the material - primer and putty. Without them, drywall will quickly become unusable, as it has a fragile structure.

The panels on the sides of the window opening are fixed according to the same principle. If, after installing the sandwich panels, there are gaps between them, then they must be filled with polyurethane foam. As soon as it dries, the excess pieces are cut off with a clerical knife. After this, the joints are closed with special profiles - platbands. To fix these elements are used.

Plastering window openings - how to do it yourself?

When making plaster slopes for plastic windows, you will need to install metal guides around the perimeter. They are better than wooden slats because they have low adhesion and will be much easier to remove. The guides must be fixed with dowels so that they protrude beyond the corners of the window opening to the planned thickness of the plaster layer.

The other rail must be secured near the window frame. When installing, be guided by the first guide, as the applied plaster will align along the plane set by both guides.

After that, start throwing plaster onto the surface. At this stage, try to make the outer corner as flat as possible. By the same principle, plaster is applied to the surface in the upper part of the window opening. Next, level out the plaster layer. At the same time, the main thing for you at this stage is not a perfectly even coating, but filling the edges of the slope and grooves with plaster. The leveling of the surface itself must be performed after the solution grasps with the walls of the opening. To do this, set the building rule on the guides, and gently lift it up, thereby carefully leveling the sketched mortar. After that, remove excess plaster and leave the material to dry completely.

After that, you will need to remove the outer guides, and install painting corners with perforations in the corners. Then another plaster layer is applied to the dry surface, the height of which should correspond to the height of the painting corner.

The final third layer must be applied with a special finishing putty, and it must be no more than 1 mm thick. It is best to apply the material with a wide trowel, pressing lightly against the surface. The marks left by the tool must be smoothed out immediately.

The final step is to smooth the finish with a special grout. To do this, attach the product to a dry putty and start moving your hand in a circle counterclockwise. If in the future you plan to paint the slopes, then before that they will need to be primed. The primer will prevent paint from seeping into the putty, resulting in a smoother paint layer.

If the apartment is not a cosmetic repair, but a full-fledged one - with the replacement of windows, interior doors, the purchase of expensive wallpaper, the issue of saving the family budget becomes very relevant. You can save money by doing some of the work yourself. Such simple, even for a beginner, nevertheless very costly when performing work hired by specialists, is the installation of window slopes. Try to make slopes on plastic windows with your own hands - it's easy and fun.

Materials for the design of window slopes

The materials used for finishing window openings are as follows:

• Plaster;
• Drywall;
• Plastic.

Each of them has its pros and cons, before choosing a material, it is better to familiarize yourself with them in advance.

When choosing plastic, you should pay attention to the fact that the panel must be resistant to mechanical damage and ultraviolet light (otherwise it will quickly lose color, turning into something yellowish!). Sandwich panels with a stable outer layer, an inner layer consisting of insulation (usually expanded polystyrene), and a moisture-resistant PVC sheet meet the most of these requirements.

We plaster ourselves

If the openings on the windows have a fairly even and strong base, you can stop at this type of finish. For work you will need:

• building level;
• dry gypsum plaster (or cement and sand, when plastering slopes with a sand-cement mixture);
• sealant;
• a spatula (many use two - a small and a large one, the first in order to collect the solution from the container and apply to the second - wider - along the entire length);
• putty;
• primer;
• sander or fine sandpaper;
• paint of the desired color (you can use both solvent-based enamels and acrylic paints).

Attention! Important! When plastering window openings, a part of the wall around the window is affected, so if it is a pity to damage the existing wallpaper, it is better to choose another material for decoration!

The first stage consists of preparing the surface for plastering. The rule here is one and simple - the surface must be clean, strong (all crumbling and falling out parts must be removed). Before starting work, it must be washed with a paint brush and primed.

Preparation of mortar and plastering itself

Dry gypsum plaster is diluted in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations written on the packaging. You should not experiment, so that after a while you do not have to do all the work again, and perhaps after finishing the premises, this will hardly be possible.

If a cement mortar is used, it is better to adhere to the classic recipe: the ratio of water, cement and sand should be 1: 2: 1. In this case, the layer thickness should not exceed 3 cm. It is better to sift the sand before work.

Advice: You should not prepare a lot of solution at once - they prepared from a gypsum mixture dry quickly, which makes it difficult to use them further.

After applying the first layer of plaster, it is necessary to insulate the window opening around the entire perimeter. Otherwise, due to the temperature drop, PVC windows may fog up. As a heater, you can use expanded polystyrene, which is glued with a layer about 5 mm thick. Then, it is also covered with plaster.

Outside the window, the walls are touched - about 5-10 cm are also plastered. The corners are leveled with a spatula.

Little trick: if the corners of the opening are severely damaged during the dismantling / installation of the window, it can be leveled using a perforated aluminum corner. A piece of the required size is simply pressed into the still wet plaster, and then allowed to dry and putty. The angle is as good as new!

The evenness of the resulting surface is periodically checked by the building level.

After application, each layer is thoroughly dried, after which it is primed 1 or 2 times.

After applying the plaster, the entire surface is sanded with sandpaper (the work is done only after it has completely dried).

The final step is simple:

1. The resulting surface is primed
2. Then putty (the layer should not exceed 3 mm, if it is necessary to make more than one - each is dried and primed separately)
3. Grind with fine sandpaper
4. The joints are coated with sealant
5. Paint the resulting slopes in the desired color

Plasterboard wisdom

The main thing is not to forget when working with drywall: measure seven times, then cut! Therefore, in advance, remove all the necessary dimensions for the blanks of future slopes - height and width. It is better to double-check everything at this stage ten times than to buy the missing sheet later. Drywall is a beneficial material for cutting - you can redraw the layouts of the blanks several times, making the most of the surface.

Recommendation: you need to cut drywall in three stages - first, cut the first layer of cardboard with a sharp knife along the markings, then break the gypsum core with a slight blow from the other side, and lastly cut the second layer of cardboard.

Quite often, the workpieces are cut out a little with a margin so that it is possible to adjust the dimensions during the work. However, if the wall is uneven, the most accurate dimensions are cut out - all the irregularities can subsequently be plastered.

Do-it-yourself installation of plasterboard slopes is possible in two ways - with and without the construction of a frame.

The frame is not used when a sufficiently strong base is available. In this case, drywall is attached to it with self-tapping screws; for additional fixation, construction adhesives (special for drywall) are used. Drying time with this method is about 3 days.

Attention! Construction adhesives dry very quickly, so prepare all the necessary materials before starting work!

All voids between the sheets and the wall must be either foamed or insulated with any other material.

When installing with a frameless method, it is imperative to use spacers so that the resulting structure does not lead in different directions during the drying process.

For the manufacture of the frame, a guide profile is used. You can ask a window manufacturer - very often they sell the necessary materials, or you can buy an L-profile at any hardware store.

The mounting points of the guide profile are the perimeter of the window and the joints of the drywall. Before fixing the slopes, it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation - the best option in this case is mineral wool. Then you can start fixing the cut blanks to the profile with self-tapping screws.

After collecting the main structure, all the cracks, joints are carefully putty, then the surface is sanded. The joints of window blocks and slopes are pasted over with masking tape, on which a special acrylic putty is applied.

The painting of the manufactured slopes can be carried out after the putty and putty have completely dried - not earlier than after 12-14 hours.

To make the finished window look neat, glue the junction of the slope and the wall with a plastic corner.

Plastic perfection

The most logical thing for plastic windows is to trim the slopes with plastic. Both thin plastic and sandwich panels can be used. The only difference during installation is that thin plastic is attached directly to the base, otherwise it will bend easily and spoil the appearance of the window.

To work you will need:

1. PVC panels (optimal size - length 6 meters, thickness 7 mm)
2. U-shaped starting bar
3. F-shaped bar
4. Wooden lath 1-1.5 cm thick and 3-6 cm wide
5. Special construction stapler (staple size 6-8 mm)
6. Construction adhesive, sealant
7. Self-tapping screws, "fleas", small dowels

The advantage of installing from PVC cloth is that there is no need to somehow additionally prepare the surface for work. Except, perhaps, to make additional steam and heat insulation. The materials are all the same - mineral wool, any insulation, polyurethane foam.

You can additionally treat the wall with a special antiseptic solution, then, even in the most favorable conditions, mold will not develop. It is under the plastic slopes that it settles the fastest, especially if during installation the cracks in which moisture enters were not sealed.

The work plan will be as follows:

Installation of the initial profile - U-shaped bar. It is fixed along the perimeter of the window opening with self-tapping screws.

Then, over the entire surface, a crate is made of wooden slats, fixed with dowels.

The gap between the top rail and the side ones should be 8-10 mm. This is where the panel will be inserted.

Work starts from the top panel. A piece of the required length and width is cut from the PVC panel. One end of the cut out workpiece is inserted into the profile, and the other is screwed to the wooden lath with self-tapping screws or a construction stapler. All work is carried out according to the level, if necessary, wooden dies are placed.

After that, they proceed to the side slopes, the PVC panels on which are attached according to the same principle.

The edges are closed with an F-shaped strip, which forms the casing as well. It is attached to construction glue. To prevent the bar from falling off while the glue dries, it is fixed for 2-3 hours with construction tape.

In order for the casing to look beautiful, the F-shaped bar is cut as follows: the height of the window is measured (for the side casing), and then the narrow part of the bar is cut off by a few centimeters. From the place where they began to cut off, the angle of 45 0 is cut off (this place will stick to the wall. The same is done with the upper platband (for it, the width of the window is measured and the cuts are made in two directions).

After assembling all the slopes, the joints are sealed. To do this, use a sealant, which is carefully leveled with a small rubber spatula.

The last secret

The disadvantages of the above method of installing plastic slopes with your own hands is that the P-profile is very noticeable. It is rarely possible to perfectly match the panel and profile by color.

However, there is a mounting option without using the initial profile.

For the most painstaking, you can offer the following sequence of work:

1. A gap is made in the polyurethane foam around the window frame. A sharp knife is fine for this. The gap should be about 1 mm wide and about 10 mm deep.
2. As in the previous version, a crate is made.
3. But the slope blank is inserted with a thorn into the nest you cut out. Its opposite end is also fixed with screws.

Further, everything is carried out according to the previously proposed plan. After all the work on refining the window opening has been completed, you can remove the protective film from the windows (you don’t forget - it is still on them). It is quite simple to install the slopes of plastic windows with your own hands, you just have to want and everything will work out!

Today, many construction companies are switching to using new technologies and new standards. In all new buildings, only plastic windows are installed, in all houses, windows are also changed. It is worth knowing that after the windows are installed, you have to make slopes. They can be made from any material, but the most commonly used materials are drywall and plastic.

Foam is not thermal insulation, it is also necessary to use additional materials for it, they can protect the windows from cooling.

Types of slopes for windows

The most commonly used plaster slopes, plasterboard and plastic.

Plastering slopes were popular in the olden days. In fact, they have more disadvantages than advantages. First of all, they can lose their color, if the house sags, then the plaster will surely move away from the wall. These slopes are quite labor intensive because they take several days to install.

The plaster is applied in several layers, and each layer dries for a long time. Then the layers are primed and painted. In addition, such slopes do not provide protection against temperature changes, the windows will sweat.

Slopes drywall are more durable, they have excellent thermal insulation, but at the same time they are afraid of moisture, that is, they are best installed in rooms where thermal insulation is provided. However, installing such an option requires a good specialist, besides, then it still requires a primer and painting.

The most universal is considered to be plastic slopes. They are very practical, do not fade and they are easy to care for. The plastic is durable and can last for over fifteen years. Such plastic will be in perfect harmony with the window, if you choose the right shade. Plastic is quite easy to mount, if you study the technology itself, then there is always the opportunity to do this work yourself.

Plastic sandwich panels are often used as an option. They fit under the frame and can be matte or glossy.

Installation of slopes from sandwich panels

The profile for fastening the slopes is made of sandwich panels, the thickness of which is not more than 1 cm. The profile is attached to the opening, and any options can be used, most often fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws and dowels. In some versions, fastening is used with brackets made of galvanized iron with a thickness of not more than 1 mm. The bracket is attached to the wall and to the slope with foam. The brackets are connected to each other by means of self-tapping screws.

If the window is supposed to be decorated with integral PVC or plasterboard, then you can give it any shape. Integral PVC is able to bend at any angle, and special cuts are made. The incisions are fixed with a special adhesive. In fact, the installation is done in the same way as the installation of sandwich panels, using self-tapping screws, dowels and a profile.

The sandwich panels are fastened in a specific sequence:

• along the perimeter of the entire opening, guides are attached using self-tapping screws of the appropriate size,
• holes in the wall for the guides are made with a drill or puncher. Make sure that they are attached perfectly evenly, it is better to control the process with a level,



• the plastic panel should be adjusted in size so that it fits clearly into the guides,
• the surplus of the panel is cut along the depth of the slope and the free spaces are filled with sealant and sealed with a special masking tape until completely dry,



• after the sealant has dried, decorative plastic corners are installed.

Useful. Which blinds are best for home? Let's try to disassemble together:

Tools and materials

To install conventional plastic slopes, the following materials and tools are required:

• a six-meter strip of plastic with a thickness of 8 mm,
• starting strip,
• strip F, that is, a strip of plastic of a special shape,



• rail 15 mm thick,
• level,
• staples and stapler,
• white silicone,



• puncher,
• mineral wool,
• scissors for metal,
• self-tapping screws.

Useful. During the operation of plastic windows, their adjustment may be required - more about this.

Steps for installing slopes

Installation is carried out in several stages. Initially, wooden slats are recruited, the main thing is that the lights do not protrude. The slats are attached to the wall using a puncher. You can use wooden blocks for leveling. At the same time, ideality at the joints is not so necessary.



A starting strip is nailed along the edge of the plastic window. It is important that a strip of plastic will be attached to the groove of the starting strip. If you did not have wallpaper pasted over, then you can tear off the film and glue them, because the dirty work will be finished. Before stuffing the F-ki, it is important to cut it correctly.



After the strip is filled, there will be an overlap, which is removed with metal scissors. It is attached with a stapler to a wooden rail. At the last stage, the plastic is attached and the wall is immediately insulated.



The plastic is attached, and cotton wool is put there in front of it, everything will turn out tightly and beautifully. If you do not get even and beautiful corners, then they can always be wiped with white silicone.

Metal-plastic structures, widespread in repair work, not only add aesthetics to home interiors, but also make our houses and apartments warmer, safer and more comfortable.

As a rule, specialists are invited to install windows of this type, but if you wish, you can make the slopes yourself.

All that needs to be done is to figure out how to fix the slopes for plastic windows with your own hands correctly and without errors, as well as stock up on tools for installation.

A selection of useful videos about plastic slopes will help you learn more about the intricacies of installation and finishing work.

How to prepare for work

Before making slopes for plastic windows, find out more about their range on the market. Today, plastic slopes for windows are made in different shapes and colors. The materials used in their manufacture may also differ.

The most common technologies are:

• plasterboard slopes;
• plastic window slopes;
• MDF slopes, as well as modern sandwich panels;
• structures with a base of cement mortar;
• slopes of a wooden type.

Do-it-yourself slopes from plastic sandwich panels - we look at the features of the work on the video:

The procedure for how to make slopes for windows will not be very different for different types of materials. But these structures manifest themselves in different ways in everyday life and differ in terms of service life, features of operation and maintenance of surfaces, protective and other properties.

Most often, preference is given to making plastic slopes with your own hands. One of their many advantages is the ability to create a single design with window inserts.

Plastic is a versatile material that suits any design. It will take a little money to create such slopes, and the material itself will serve a lot of time and retain an attractive appearance even when exposed to moisture or accidental damage.

If you are thinking about how to make do-it-yourself slopes out of plastic for windows, check out the step-by-step installation process in advance. If all procedures are performed correctly, it will take you no more than 3-4 hours to complete the installation.

How to make slopes on plastic windows technological and reliable - video from another master:

Plastic slopes have a wide range of colors, so you can choose the shade of such structures, focusing on the design features of the room.

How to make slopes with your own hands? Get good quality plastic: if you save on material, you risk spending a lot more on subsequent repairs to the structure. Please note that the plastic elements of the window area must have a thickness of 8 mm or more. The length of the material should be similar to the parameters of the opening. The depth of such a slope should not be more than the indicators of the width of the plastic panel.

Remember! Such slopes should be installed no earlier than three full days after the installation of windows. This time will be enough for the polyurethane foam to completely freeze.

If you are guided by how slopes are made in plastic windows - and decided to do this work without assistance, prepare additional materials: a starter strip, a profile of form F, foam for installation, a mixture of cement, small screws (bugs), silicone, adhesive tape , material for insulation and paper clips.

When working with slopes, a hammer, a screwdriver, a silicone gun and a foam gun, a spatula, materok, a drill with a bit for self-tapping screws, a rag and a tape measure will be used.

Watch the video of decorating window slopes with plastic with your own hands to find out about your capabilities and assess whether you can cope with the decoration yourself:

We advise you to study the existing ones if you plan to use gypsum plasterboards for repairs in an apartment. Detailed information and recommendations for choosing will help you not to make a mistake.

The rules, features and nuances of applying decorative plaster bark beetle on the walls in the apartment are described in.

How slopes are placed

Now let's find out how to make plastic slopes. First, remove the shipping tape from the installed window profiles. The cracks from the street must be repaired using cement mortar.

Due to this surface treatment, you can make the outer assembly seam denser, and also protect the assembly foam from direct exposure to ultraviolet radiation, which destroys its structure.

Attention! When we make plastic slopes, you can choose other protective finishes. For example, putty or ready-made cement mixture. Cover the external window slopes with dye - and begin to carry out the rest of the procedures indoors.

We proceed to the next stage of describing how to make the slopes on the windows yourself. Take the start bar - and shape it to match the window parameters.

Using self-tapping screws, drill the strip to the profile along the entire perimeter. It is this coating that will form the basis for the plastic panel.

What is needed in this case? First of all, make the top panel: focusing on the parameters of the upper side of the opening, cut out the plastic cover - and fix it in the grooves of the starting strip. Then repeat this work with the two side panels.

Advice: during installation, it is more correct to use tools for leveling the material: level or plumb line.

As a result of this work, you should get a framework with the following features:

with the formation of a gap for polyurethane foam with a thickness of more than 20 mm between the base base and the plastic panel;

with the same angle of turn of the sides of the slope on the left and right. To achieve this effect, use a square, which should be attached to the window profile at the top and bottom on the left and right sides;

if some parts of the panels and plastic go too clearly beyond the plane of the window opening, use a construction knife to correct the shape;

in the zones and corners of the joining of the panels, it is better to set the cutoffs of the starting profile: this way you will cover the unevenness of the cuts.

The next stage of our master class on how to make slopes on plastic windows: now we are preparing edging from an F-shaped profile. Similarly to working with plastic, start this work from the top part. Saw down the joints of the profile at an angle of 45 degrees to each other.

It is very important to correctly carry out the sealing of the slopes of plastic windows with your own hands. All voids should be closed with special foam. But note that you should not overdo it: freezing, foam can open up slopes... Therefore, in order to make slopes without mistakes with your own hands, cut through the area at the base of the window and lay the foam with jumpers between the plastic base and the old slope.

Form the second foamy layer along the slope angle: F-shaped profiles are mounted in the free space, and they are fixed using adhesive tape.

We continue to finish the slopes with plastic with our own hands. Typically, after twenty minutes, when the foam hardens, the structure will become more resistant and stiff. In the end, all you have to do is seal or silicone the cracks.

For proper foam adhesion, slightly dampen surfaces before starting work..

Important! Don't forget to mask the defects under the windowsill and ebb, and get rid of dust and debris at the end of the work.

That's the whole procedure of how to make slopes on plastic windows.

Do-it-yourself installation of slopes with platbands for plastic windows - we look at how a master does it without experience:

How to make slopes in plastic windows - another video:

To quickly and easily make slopes on the windows with your own hands, start from some tips:

If you follow our recommendations on how to make slopes on plastic windows, the effect will last for about 10 years, and the windows will delight you with an updated appearance. And most importantly, it is not at all necessary to have the appropriate experience and skills to perform these works.

Read on how to mount correctly: detailed instructions and videos describe in detail the entire do-it-yourself installation process.

The features of attaching sound insulation to the ceiling are described - all work can be done independently.

Video

Watch a few more videos on how to make slopes on windows:

1. Video on how to make slopes on plastic windows from laminated plastic panels:

2. Video about finishing the slopes of plastic windows with your own hands in an apartment with a rough finish:

3. Slopes on plastic windows with your own hands can be mounted without PVC corners, as in the video below: