How to build a bathhouse with your own hands step by step instructions. Do-it-yourself bath in the country: step-by-step instructions. Features of the Russian bath

A trip to the dacha is a joyful event, since there you can take care of a vegetable garden or landscaping a site, and then relax, steam in a bath, provided that it is there. We will tell you how to properly make a bathhouse in the country with your own hands, demonstrate drawings, diagrams and photo instructions. It takes a lot of work, but it's worth it.

In your imagination, you probably already see how you approach the bathhouse, open the door and find yourself in a warm and cozy dressing room, and then into the steam room. Yes! This is exactly how it will be, but a little later. First you need:

• choose a suitable project;
• get acquainted with the stages of construction;
• purchase building material;
• build a bathhouse and bring all communications;
• carry out interior decoration and only then take a steam bath.

If, after reading the introduction, you have not lost the desire to make a bathhouse in the country, then we will continue the topic, considering all the stages of construction.

Choosing a place for the construction of a bath

Often, summer cottages are not large in size, but in addition to personal preferences and convenience, there are also norms that must be adhered to. Let's look at preferences first.

1. It would be better to put the bath on a hill, which will greatly simplify the organization of water drainage.
2. It is good when the bath is located next to a pond or river.
3. The rays of the setting sun, penetrating into the steam room through the window, will relieve stress, but at the same time it must be done so that the entrance to the bath is clearly visible from the window of the country house. So you can watch the heating bath and the children, especially when a swimming pool is built in front of the entrance.
4. The bath can be made in the form of an extension to the house.

In order not to have conflict situations with the authorities or neighbors, it is necessary to comply with the requirements of SNiP 30-02-97. Paying attention to section 6, paragraphs 6, 7 and 8, you will find comprehensive information on the placement of the building on the site, but we will give only those numbers that you need in order to choose the optimal place for the bath.

Taking into account fire safety measures for buildings located on opposite sides of the passage, you must adhere to the distances indicated in the table:

As for the requirements regarding the distances to the neighboring site, they are also unambiguous.

It is also important to take into account the requirements for the location of buildings on your site - shower, bath and sauna must be at least 8 m away from the garden house.

By the way, non-observance of these norms can lead to litigation with a neighbor and the demolition or transfer of the bath to another place.

Bath project

When choosing a bath project, it is important to take into account the material from which it will be built. There can be several types of buildings:

1. Frame bath.
2. Wooden bathhouse (made of timber or rounded logs).
3. Bath made of bricks, stones or blocks.
4. Wood concrete structure.

Having decided on the material, when choosing a project, make sure that it suits you according to all criteria.

Material selection

So, having chosen a suitable project, in accordance with its requirements, you need to prepare building materials.

• Most often, summer residents prefer to erect frame structures, since they are the cheapest and successfully cope with their task. In addition, due to the low weight of such a structure, you will not have to spend a lot on the foundation either.
• The most favorite buildings are wooden ones. The cost of such a building will be slightly higher, and the foundation will need to be made stronger, in contrast to the frame structure. A good wooden bathhouse built in the country does not need insulation.
• Stone and brick are not often used to build a bathhouse in the country. This is due to the fact that such a heavy structure needs a strong foundation, and the walls freeze during long absences and such a bath needs to be heated for a long time. The exception is buildings made of foam and gas blocks. The requirements for the strength of the foundation are not so high, the walls are warm, but it is important to take into account that this building material is very hygroscopic, therefore it must be protected from moisture.
• Arbolite is also often used in the construction of baths. Walls can be monolithic or made of blocks. The structure is warm, durable and inexpensive.

Wall materials

Since in our article we are talking about several possible options for using various building materials, we will consider them separately.

Frame structure

The walls of such a bath are made in a lattice structure. For the walls of the frame you will need:

• A beam of various sections, the size and quantity of which is indicated in the project.
• Insulation material with high thermal insulation qualities for filling the frame. Again, you need to adhere to the requirements regarding the use of one or another insulation material, but here you need to take into account that the documentation often indicates one type of material, but not all possible ones. If the specified material is too expensive, then you can refer to the forums to clarify what is acceptable in your area.
• Material for covering the frame from the outside and from the inside. Most often, OSB boards, edged boards, siding or block houses are used for the outer cladding of a building, while lining is used from the inside.

Wooden bath

For the construction of walls can be used:

• Natural debarked wood.
• Edged timber.
• Profiled timber.
• Glued laminated timber.
• Rounded log.

Bath made of bricks, stones or blocks

The walls of such a bath can be made of the following materials:

• Brick (ceramic or silicate).
• Stone (quarry, limestone, shell rock).
• Block (foam, slag, gas blocks).

Wood concrete structure

If there is an opportunity to inexpensively purchase sawdust (or maybe there are some), then at home it is quite possible to make wood concrete blocks of fairly high quality. Also, this building material in the form of ready-made blocks is on sale. Walls are built very quickly. Another advantage of using wood concrete is the ability to manufacture monolithic walls by pouring cement-bonded mortar into the formwork.

Materials for the ceiling in the bath

The dressing room and the rest room are warm rooms, therefore it is recommended to use materials with low thermal conductivity - aspen, linden or alder.

For lining the ceiling of the steam room, it is preferable to use a wooden lining, as it is able to withstand high temperatures. Pine or spruce products cannot be used in this room; when heated, resin begins to emit from this wood. Also, you can not hem the ceiling with fiberboard and chipboard sheets, since moisture and high temperature contribute to the release of vapors that can harm human health.

Materials for insulation and vapor barrier

It is advisable to carry out external insulation only if the bath is heated. It is unlikely that someone will make such a luxury in the country, so we are considering materials for the internal insulation of an unheated bath.

The frame bath does not need to be insulated, since the thermal insulation is embedded inside the structure. In a wooden bath, you need to make a crate into which the insulation will be inserted. Other types of baths require insulation made using a more sophisticated technology.

To complete the work, you will need mineral wool, the thickness of which is selected depending on the material used in the construction of the bath and climatic conditions. Usually a layer of at least 50 mm is laid. Insulation can be in the form of mats or in rolls.

When it comes to vapor barrier, it is important to know that it is not waterproofing. Each has its own purpose. Even an inexpensive vapor barrier will fulfill its role, while a waterproofing used for other purposes can negate all the work.

What you especially need to pay attention to is not to buy a fake.

Decoration Materials

Since we are talking about a bathhouse in the country, we will not talk about chic types of finishes. The best option would be to use wood: lining or similar facing materials.

As for the exterior decoration, it can be any material that is used for the cladding of houses. If the bathhouse is made of rounded logs, then it would be unreasonable to cover the already beautiful facade with something else.

Bath construction

Now let's look at how the construction of a bathhouse in the country can be done with our own hands. It is clear that the work will be easier to complete with an assistant, which may be one of the family members. At the initial stage of the work, some assignments can be given to children. Of course, they will not do everything and not as quickly as they would like, but if they feel that they are needed, they will then be more careful with the bathhouse built with their participation.

But let's be realistic, small children will help a little, and if you build it alone, it will be a long-term construction, especially since you simply won't be able to do some work alone. As you read the article, you will see when and how many assistants you may need - this will help you plan everything.

Markup

So, the plan has been selected, the location has been determined, now we will proceed to the marking on the ground. To do this, in accordance with the scale indicated in the project, transfer the contour of the bath to the area. In the place where the corner of the building will be, a long peg (or reinforcement) is hammered, and the lengths of two walls located at an angle of 90 ° are measured from it. The next pegs are hammered there, and the distances of other walls are measured from them. Finally, the last - fourth peg is hammered.

Now that there is a designated perimeter of the future structure, you need to check how straight the corners are. To do this, you need to perform a check along the axes - measure the distance from one peg to another. The received data must match. If this is not the case, then the plane must be shifted by "shortening" the longest axis. After that, it will be necessary to check not only the axes, but also other dimensions, and, if necessary, correct again.

If the foundation is strip, then a slight discrepancy can be left, but for a pile or column foundation, the markings must be very accurate.

This is how we marked the dimensions of the bath in accordance with the design data. Further marking is performed depending on what the foundation will be. You can learn more about this from the table.

Weigh the pros and cons, and then make the final decision regarding the choice of the type of foundation.

Pouring the foundation

The manufacture of a shallow strip foundation is acceptable under the following conditions:

1. The soil on the site is dry and non-flowing.
2. The groundwater level is quite low.
3. In winter, frosts are not very strong.
4. The structure is not heavy.

Do not try to guess the type of foundation for a heavy structure. If you are not sure, then invite specialists who, after completing the appropriate checks, will give an accurate answer.

Let's start with a simpler and most often made shallow foundation for a bath.

• We have external markings, now we need to carry out the internal ones, taking into account that the foundation should be at least 50 cm wide and should protrude 5‒10 cm outside the structure on each side. Therefore, if the bath is 3 × 4 m, then the largest size along the outer perimeter will be 3.2 × 4.2 m.
• It is important to take into account the installation site of the stove and at the same time make the foundation for it.
• For convenience, in the corners, you need to install wooden structures similar to benches. They need to be set in the same plane along the height of the future formwork and a measuring cord must be attached to them. How to do this is shown in the illustration.

• It is necessary to remove the fertile topsoil and remove it to the side, then dig a trench, from which the clay can then be used as a bedding.
• As for the depth of the trench, in some cases it can be 35 cm. Much depends on the depth of freezing and the soil itself. You need to get to the bottom of a solid clay layer and in no case stop on the ground. Therefore, most often the depth is in the range of 50 - 60 cm.
• The bottom of the trench must be leveled by checking its levelness with a level.
• Now it's the turn of the sand bed. It is necessary to pour a layer of sand, at least 15 cm thick, into the trench, moisten with water and tamp well. For this, it would be more convenient to use a vibratory rammer, but it is also possible manually, using a weighty bar with handles nailed to it.
• The next layer is filled with crushed stone of the middle fraction and is also carefully rammed.
• Now it is the turn of the formwork, the height of which should reach the stretched cord. It can be made from scrap materials or timber harvested for other purposes, since this temporary structure will be disassembled soon after the foundation is poured. Ready-made shields must be installed along the trench and well secured, otherwise the poured concrete can move them.

• In order not to stain the boards, and so that the concrete does not flow out through the cracks, the formwork is closed from the inside with plastic wrap, which must be fixed with a stapler or thin nails.
• Now you need to make a frame from metal or plastic reinforcement, fastened with a knitting wire.

• The fabricated frame should not reach the edges of 5 cm. It must be carefully lowered into the trench so as not to tear the film protecting the formwork. To raise the frame above the bedding, you need to put pieces of granite under it, since, unlike brick, it will not crumble under the influence of moisture.
• If any communications pass through the foundation, then holes need to be left for them, in which the sleeves will help, as is done in the photo above. The same applies to the manufacture of products.
• Plan your time so as to fill the foundation with concrete in a day, since breaks are not allowed here - then the tape will not be monolithic. It is convenient to deliver concrete with a mixer and pour it directly from it, otherwise it will have to be kneaded in a concrete mixer, on the basis that 1 bucket of M400 cement is required, 3 of sand, crushed stone (or gravel) - 5 buckets.
• The concrete-filled foundation should be compacted with a vibrator or pierced. After shrinkage, you need to add some concrete and level the area. If the foundation is being made for a wooden house, then the foundation bolts must be fixed in the non-hardened concrete.
• The formwork can be removed not earlier than after a week.

It should be remembered that concrete has not yet reached its full strength, therefore, it must be handled with care or wait 28 days, and only then build a bath.

Video: building a foundation for a bath

Wall masonry

When building a bath from blocks, stone or bricks, you need to level the foundation with a cement-sand mortar according to the level, and lay roofing material on it, folded in half. Laying starts from the corners. Having installed the first blocks on the cement-sand mortar, you need to make sure that they are in the same plane and only after that a string is pulled along the upper outer edge, which serves as a guide for laying a whole series of building materials.

When laying the next row, the masonry mixture may differ: a wall of bricks and shell rock is erected on a cement-sand mortar, while mixtures recommended by the manufacturer are used for laying lightweight blocks.

Having installed jumpers over the doors and windows, you need to install the formwork on top and make an armored belt, fixing the foundation bolts in it for the subsequent fastening of the Mauerlat board. After the concrete has hardened, it will be possible to start making the roof.

Bath frame construction

The basis of such a bath is a wooden frame, which is insulated and sheathed with various types of finishing materials. You need to choose high-quality materials and follow the sequence of their installation.

For the manufacture of the frame, boards from well-dried larch, aspen or linden will be needed, because this wood has low thermal conductivity. Manufactured shields will be resistant to deformation.

On the foundation, a frame of the lower strapping is made from a bar of 100 × 100 mm. At the ends of the bars, you need to make cuts in half the thickness and fasten them to each other with self-tapping screws. If bars of 50 × 100 mm are used, then the frame can be assembled end-to-end using metal corners. The dimensions of the bar used depend on the type of foundation, design and size of the bath.

• At the next stage, the end strapping board is installed, and the floor logs are attached to it end-to-end. A beam of 50 × 100 mm is used.
• On the opposite side, the logs are cut in such a way that a second end strapping board can be installed.
• The logs need to be arranged so that the prepared insulation becomes close to between them, then the end strapping boards are nailed.
• The frame of the walls is assembled from a bar of 50 × 100 mm, and then installed in place, all parts are fastened into a single structure.

To ensure the vapor barrier of the frame bath, it is necessary to use a vapor barrier film, which will avoid the accumulation of moisture inside the frame. Mineral wool or fiberglass is used as an insulating material. They are able to provide a high level of sealing without disrupting natural air exchange.

It is preferable to carry out insulation and wall cladding after the installation of the roof. This approach will protect the wood and insulation from getting wet.

Floor

If in the frame bath all that remains is to insulate the floor and lay a floorboard, then for other buildings you will have to work harder - you need to install logs, make a rough floor, fix a vapor barrier, lay insulation, perform waterproofing, lay a floorboard, which will have to be changed in a few years. Considering that the dacha in the country will not dry out thoroughly due to the lack of time for this, because after the weekend it will be necessary to hastily leave for the city, then if there is such an opportunity, it would be preferable to make a concrete floor and tile it with tiles. Wooden shields are laid on it, which can be taken out to dry in the shed and calmly go home.

It is clear that for a frame and other structure installed on a columnar or pile foundation, only a wooden floor with insulation is acceptable. More details about this process are described in the next two videos.

Video: how to install floor beams, make insulation and ensure drainage in the bath

Roof construction

There should be a reliable roof over any bathhouse, but the options for its creation may be different. In any case, you need to install waterproofing, and then thermal insulation, think about the type of roof and the choice of a suitable roofing material. Without waterproofing, steam will freely penetrate into the attic, and, settling on beams and rafters, will contribute to their rapid destruction. In addition, the condensation formed on the roofing material will begin to drain onto the insulation, which will affect the properties and durability of the latter.

The type of terrain has a great influence on the choice of the type of roof, since the technical parameters of the structure must be taken into account.

• So, in a holiday village, especially when it is located among tall trees, you can safely make a high gable roof.
• If the dacha is located in the steppe zone, blown by all winds, then the slope for the roof must be made minimal.
• With small dimensions of the bath and insignificant snow load, the roof can be made single-pitched. The same roof is most often made in a bathhouse attached to the house.

Video: how to make a bathhouse roof

Interior and exterior decoration

Although wood is most commonly used for interior decoration, not all wood is suitable for this purpose. It is necessary to choose the right material, especially for a steam room, in which a high temperature is created at high humidity. It should be said right away that pine sawn timber, as well as fiberboard, chipboard and linoleum, cannot be used to decorate this room. Therefore, you need to purchase larch or linden lining.

As for other rooms, the conditions there are not so extreme, therefore, there are no such high requirements for the material used - what cannot be used in a steam room is perfect for a rest room and a dressing room. The pine lining in the dressing room will exude a pleasant aroma and create a feeling of comfort.

Decorating a wooden and brick bath with clapboard is almost the same. First, the lathing is attached to the wall, and the lining is already attached to it. An exception is the steam room, in which there must be a heat-reflecting foil under the crate.

Exterior decoration is carried out not only to make the bath beautiful, but also to protect it. To decorate the bath from the outside, you can use the following materials:

• Imitation of a bar.
• Siding.
• Lining.
• Block house.
• Facade tiles.
• Dye.

You just have to choose the right material and finish the facade.

Bath ventilation

Sometimes there is still such an opinion that good ventilation in the steam room is useless, since all the heat comes out through it, and it is made very weak, or it is absent altogether. But there is another extreme, when the ventilation process is not controlled, and the heat escapes from the bath. In such a steam room it is very hot upstairs, and the legs are freezing.

In fact, during the adoption of bath procedures, the air in the room must be refreshed 2-3 times per hour, but this is not enough, since ventilation must be done correctly. Usually the inlet is located at the bottom near the boiler, and the exhaust outlet is under the ceiling on the opposite side. While the steam room is warming up, the exhaust window is closed. Then it opens, and warm air begins to rapidly leave the room. As a result, the steam room becomes cool and uncomfortable. You can make ventilation as shown in the diagram.

Such a device allows you to keep warm air under the ceiling, and half-cooled air comes out through the hole located below (B), so it will be comfortable in the steam room. When the steam room needs to be thoroughly ventilated, the upper ventilation opening (A) opens.

In addition to the steam room, ventilation is necessary in every room of the bath. In order not to waste precious heat, you can make it so that it is possible to close the ventilation openings during those hours when there is no need for ventilation.

Furniture

The canopy and all the furniture for a summer cottage can be made independently. If there is no desire to tinker with something else, then there are many offers on the network for the sale of everything you need for a summer residence.

If you want to save money on furniture, you can revise old stocks. Maybe there is something that needs to be repaired, but hands do not reach it? After a small restoration, such furniture can serve for a long time. The main requirement is not to use chipboard furniture, as this material will deteriorate very quickly from high humidity.

Schemes

Photo: original baths

A modern person needs a bath to cleanse the body from impurities and at the same time to spiritually pacify in the ease of being. And with some types of diseases, a visit to the bath is included in the compulsory main course of treatment.

There are different types of baths, according to the national customs of individual peoples, with their own design features: Russian bath, Roman bath, Turkish bath, Irish bath, Japanese bath.

In this article, we will look at how to build a bath yourself. Let's take a look at an illustrative example.

Let's leave the smoke sauna in the past, where the stove was without a chimney and the smoke went into the room, which caused the walls to be covered with a thick layer of soot. We will build and heat the bathhouse in a white way with the smoke coming out through the chimney.

It should be noted that this event is not cheap. You can order a project and experts will build it for you. Such a bath with dimensions of 4 x 4 m will cost you around 800,000 rubles.

But there is another option - to build a bathhouse partially with your own hands. For example, pour the foundation yourself and order and buy a ready-made log house according to the size of the foundation. It will be brought to you disassembled, and you yourself will assemble it on the spot using the marks. You also do the roof, floors and decoration yourself.

There is also a third option - to build a turnkey bath from the foundation to the roof completely with your own hands. This option is energy-consuming, laborious and if you correctly assess your strength, then it is quite possible. You build a bathhouse yourself without hiring "shabashniki" and only as assistants involve relatives and friends.

We begin to build a bathhouse

When choosing the location of the bath, try to take into account the direction of the slanting rains in the area in order to install the front door of the bath from the opposite side. Otherwise, you will have to build a vestibule to protect the door from getting wet and swelling.

Before building a bath, we decide on the comfortable conditions and our desires to have a dressing room (dressing room), a washing department and a steam room in the bath. An acceptable ratio of the sizes of these rooms is 2: 1.5: 1. In addition to these three rooms, you can make another rest room.

In the picture, we see that the rest room is combined with a dressing room and this is a good option for preliminary planning of premises. You can undress and go through the washing room to the steam room.

The washing room is connected to the steam room by a light partition.

Heat, heat and moisture from the steam room do not get into the dressing room on clothes, and when entering and exiting with the opening of the door, they get into the washing room and this is good.

If space in the washing room permits, there is a forced water supply to the bath. then they install a shower stall. Connoisseurs of bath procedures can take a cold dip after the steam room, relax, drink tea, kvass and return to the steam room.

During the second run, steaming with a broom begins, and this is already a whole science.

If the funds do not allow such a level of comfort, then they do it differently: the steam room is combined with the washing room, and the locker room is combined with the rest room. See an example in the article below. This option also takes place in our life. A person does not always take a steam bath, but is washed regularly once a week and even more often. In this example, in the break room, you can dry your body from moisture and dress calmly.

There is a bathhouse, which is very simple in its design, and it consists of one room with an area of ​​6 m2, combining a washing room, a steam room and a changing room. Our family had such a bath in 50 years. She is resilient - we grew up with her. There is no comfort in such planning.

Bath foundation

After you have decided on the outer dimensions of your bath, you can begin to build a foundation for the bath. The foundation for the bath is the most important structure and is designed to transfer the load from all structures of the bath to the ground. The durability of the bath depends on the reliability of the foundation.

The construction of the foundation consists of a series of sequential operations. First, you need to conduct a survey of the soil, then dig trenches under the walls, equip the formwork, tie the reinforcement cage and pour concrete. When the concrete has set. it is necessary to remove the formwork and wait until the foundation has settled. Then make a blind area and a base.

1. To survey the soil, you can contact a specialized organization. Or you can think and decide for yourself how dense the soil and under load will not precipitate. Look at nearby buildings, talk to neighbors, communication is useful.

Soils are:

• Continental or rocky - the most reliable and do not swell in winter. They have a gravel-sand mixture. The foundation can be buried 50 cm;
• Sandy soils - sag under load. The foundation must be laid to a depth of 70 cm;
• Clay soils - shrink, erode and swell when freezing. The foundation is laid for the entire freezing depth.

There are two most common types of foundations that are used to build a bath - strip and columnar. If the bath is located on a slope, then a columnar foundation is needed.

Consider a more expedient strip monolithic reinforced concrete foundation of shallow depth. The site chosen for construction must be cleaned of plant soil and carefully leveled the surface. The width of the basement for the bath is calculated based on the structures of future walls. And it is taken as the width of the wall + 10 cm, if you wish, you can make more - albeit more expensive, but stronger.

With the help of pegs and a cord, we transfer the do-it-yourself bath foundation plan from paper to the site.

The dimensions are given here as an example. First, you need to knock three thin long boards into a right-angled triangle. We put it on the ground and remember the Pythagorean theorem. When the plan of the bath in the form of a rectangle or square has been designated on the ground, you can make sure in separate sections that there is no distortion in the dimensions. The two intersecting diagonals must be equal.

Then you need to take the posts with the nailed boards and cast them at a distance of 1 - 2 m using a level.

When the contours of the outer and inner sides of the foundation are ready, you can start digging trenches. Sand and gravel 20 cm thick are poured onto the bottom of the finished trenches and compacted - this is a cushion for the foundation.

2. The next stage is the installation of the formwork. As a formwork, you can use edged boards with a thickness of at least 25 mm and at least 40 mm for racks. The side walls of the formwork are secured with horizontal struts. The formwork must be tight so that the cement laitance does not flow out of the solution. You can upholster the formwork with roofing felt from the inside.

Bars 40 mm thick are placed at the bottom of the trench and a finished reinforcement frame is lowered onto them to create a protective layer of concrete. The reinforcement must not come into contact with the formwork - leave 50 mm.

Take horizontal bars of reinforcement with a diameter of 16 mm, vertical bridges can be made with a diameter of 14 mm or 16 mm. Take the distance between the vertical jumpers 300 mm. The reinforcement is tied together with a soft wire.

Make the height of the formwork, and hence the foundation, 30-40 cm from the ground surface - for arranging the blind area and basement.

3. Concreting the foundation is a laborious and difficult process. Invite relatives and friends to help. Mixing concrete can be done manually or using a concrete mixer. Gravel, sand, cement are poured and mixed, then water is poured. It is necessary to use concrete within an hour.

After 2 - 3 hours after the completion of the work, the foundation must be covered with shavings, poured with water and covered with plastic wrap. In summer, water the first 3 days with water after 4 hours, then once a day - do it every day for 7 days. Within 28 days, the built foundation for the bath will gain 80% strength.

After the concrete has set, the formwork is removed, and the foundation itself is coated with waterproofing on all sides. Then the sinuses are filled with soil and rammed. The bath foundation is protected from atmospheric moisture by arranging a blind area along the entire perimeter. It is made with a slope from the foundation wall 600 mm wide from concrete, gravel, sand.

It will be more correct if you put 2 layers of roofing material on the foundation and lay out 2 rows of masonry on a cement mortar of ceramic red solid bricks (perforated and silicate is impossible). See the picture below and pay attention to the vents - they are definitely needed. The foundation is ready.

Building walls

Bath walls can be built from various materials: wood, brick or aerated concrete blocks. If you are proficient in building with a trowel, build walls from bricks and blocks, but the interior should be made of wood.

Baths with wooden walls are considered the best baths. Log or cobbled walls keep the warmth and scent of the wood in. It is warm and dry inside such a bath. Being in a log sauna, we feel closer to nature. In this article, we build walls from wood.

The service life of wooden walls depends on the correct harvesting and shrinkage of the wood. Logging should be carried out in winter from December to March, when the tree and its juices are "dormant". A tree that has been felled and stripped of branches must be aged for 1 month and only then it is cleaned and turned into a log or bar.

2 weeks before the warmth, the forest must be cleared of bark. At the same time, bark belts 10-15 cm wide are left at the ends of the logs so that the ends do not crack. The diameter of the logs is better with a thickness of 180 - 200 mm. The log house should be 220 - 240 cm high, taking into account future shrinkage. As a result, 14 - 16 logs will be needed on one side of the log house.

Place the cleaned logs in stacks with a distance of 5 cm between the logs, with a distance between rows of 10 cm, with a distance of 20 cm from the ground. Cover the entire stack from above with slate or roofing felt from rain. There should be a distance of 5 cm between the slate and the logs, which means we also put bars 50 mm thick. The stack should be blown by the wind from all sides, and the logs should dry.

The chopped walls of the bathhouse are assembled in the same way as the walls of houses. The walls are cut by sequential laying of crowns. The crown is four logs connected at the corners, forming a rectangle. From the bottom side, they are cut off by one edging.

On the logs of subsequent crowns, grooves are chosen, preferably semicircular. The lower crown is a salary, made of thicker pine, oak or larch logs and strictly according to the level. The lower crown must be treated with an antiseptic, dried and covered with a layer of waterproofing mastic.

Between the foundation and the lower crown, 2 layers of roofing material must be placed. On both sides of the bath, a gap is formed between the frame and the foundation, it is laid with a brick with cement mortar, having previously covered the logs with two layers of roofing material.

The crowns are fastened together with wooden spikes. The spikes are placed every 1 - 1.5 m in length, staggered along the height of the wall. Spikes are placed from the corners of the walls at a distance of 200 - 250 mm.

Corner cuts (nodes) during the construction of walls are performed in two ways:

1. Felling in "oblo" (in the bowl) - strong and durable. The blockhouse turns out to be more stable, and the protruding parts of the logs protect the corner of the blockhouse well from rain. If the bowl is down, then the walls last longer.
2. More difficult cutting corners "in the paw". A professional carpenter is needed here. This connection requires accuracy and precision of fitting, otherwise the corners of the log house will turn out to be cold and no insulation will help.

It is easier to build the walls of a bath from a ready-made timber with your own hands. With an average winter temperature in the region - 30 degrees. use a bar of 150 x 150 mm, at - 40 degrees. timber 180 x 180 mm. For the inner walls of the bath, a beam of 100 x 150 mm and 100 x 180 mm, respectively, is suitable. It is quite possible to cut the corners of walls from a bar yourself.

In the process of erecting walls, a layer of insulation is laid between the logs or beams: dry moss, tow or hemp. Caulk both from the outside and from the inside. After caulking, the height of the log house increases by 10 - 15 cm. A year and a half after shrinkage, the caulking is repeated.

The assembly of wooden walls is completed with an upper crown - a Mauerlat. Its function is to support the ceiling and roof. It should be made of high quality slender and sturdy beams or logs.

Roof

The roof of the bathhouse can be made single-slope or double-slope with an attic. Installation of a gable roof is not too difficult and is available to a layman with his own hands. Need training and safety while working at height.

A more common gable roof with a ridge at the top and at the ends on both sides - gables. The roof is constructed from a successive series of isosceles triangles. The upper point of the triangle is called the ridge, the lower part is the puff, and the horizontal jumper connecting the sides of the triangle (rafter legs) is the crossbar. This whole structure is called a farm.

Sometimes the structure of the truss is made differently and a vertical stand with rafter legs (struts) is placed under the ridge. The rafter legs are also attached to the Mauerlat in different ways. In the picture above, they run into the attic beam (tightening).

In the picture on the left, the truss rafter legs are supported and attached directly to the Mauerlat. Fasteners can be purchased in the store, there is a large selection and now this is not a problem.

In order for the roof of the bath to have an overhang (cornice) necessary to drain rain, the rafter legs are released beyond the line of the walls.

When installing trusses, attic floor beams or ceiling beams must be thought out by you and already installed. They make temporary flooring and walk when installing trusses. Sometimes, when installing the rafter legs on the Mauerlat, cutouts are made in it and fasten them with iron brackets. Usually the cross-section of the rafters is 50 x 150 mm. The initial installation of all roof trusses starts with anchoring
them on the pediments. A cord or ridge board is pulled between them. The trusses on the pediments are installed perpendicular to the wall and strictly according to the level. After that, other trusses are evenly mounted with a pitch of 600 - 800 - 1000 mm. The trusses are connected to each other by temporary wind ties and props. The cornice with boards from below can not be sewn up. And if sewn up - make ventilation grilles. The roof must "breathe".

Before installing the rafter legs (rafters), they are determined with an angle of inclination. The more unreliable the material and the more precipitation falls, the steeper the slope. The height of the ridge depends on the slope of the rafters, the steeper the roof, the higher the ridge. The height of the ridge can be calculated if half the width of the bath is multiplied by a coefficient depending on the angle of inclination of the rafters (slopes). The tilt angle is measured in degrees. In the Urals, it is taken from 30 to 60 degrees.

Accordingly, for an angle of 30 degrees. - slope coefficient = 0.59; for 35 deg. = 0.79; for 40 deg. = 0.86; for 45 deg. = 1.0; for 50 deg. = 1.22; for 55 deg. = 1.45; for 60 deg. = 1.78

You can calculate the angle of inclination on paper, or on the ground. Lay out your truss on the ground in the form of a triangle and start defining the angles between the ramps and the puff. Determine the height of the vertical beam (strut) if you will be making one. Skate height in front of you, slope angle in front of you. Practitioners recommend making a skate template from boards to fix the chosen angle at the skate.

The next stage is the crate. The lathing can be solid or in a row, it depends on the type of roofing material. Discharged lathing is suitable for steel roofing, sometimes for slate. However, in any case, a continuous crate should be made at the ridge and along the eaves. The lathing on the roof of the bath is made from bars of 50 x 50 mm or 60 x 60 mm. The distance between the bars is 200 - 250 mm. The joints of the bars on the rafters are staggered.

The lathing for rolled materials is made in the form of a continuous flooring of edged coniferous boards 25 mm thick and 100 - 140 mm wide. Planks are joined on the rafters in a checkerboard pattern.

When laying the lathing, remember about the chimney and immediately install the embedded parts for fixing it. The crate is not made tight to the pipe. When the lathing is ready, all wooden roof structures are covered with an antiseptic solution and a fire retardant (fire retardant).

There are now a lot of roofing coatings: roofing felt slate, galvanized sheet steel, profiled galvanized sheets (painted and unpainted), ondulin, tiles.

The roof ridge is covered with a cover made of sheet steel with a thickness of = 0.7 mm, sides = 300 mm.

The final photos of the bath, built by your own hands

You, the readers of the article, are offered to view simple different baths, with the possibility of building with your own hands.

Nuances, with the independent construction of a bath from the foundation to the roof

When you build a turnkey bathhouse with your own hands, you need to know some subtleties that are rarely found in literature, and the one who knows, he is silent about it.

• It is better to cut down a log house for a bath near the installation site, dry (without tow) and after 6 - 9 months assemble it with insulation on the foundation.
• If the logs have dried in a stack for 1 year, they can be chopped immediately onto the foundation and caulked.
• The log building of the bathhouse should be laid out at once along the entire perimeter. Logs in a blockhouse are folded alternately with butts in different directions so that the rows are horizontal.
• You cannot caulk one wall of the bath - this will distort the structure. It is necessary to caulk the log house from the bottom up consistently along the entire perimeter of the log house. After the blockhouse of the bathhouse has been drilled for the second time, after 1 - 1.5 years, from the inside and outside, you can start clapboarding.
• When arranging the formwork and pouring the foundation, install on each room and on each wall boxes made of boards upholstered with roofing felt or iron for future ventilation - this is important.
• Make a formwork, independent, not in any way connected with the formwork for the walls, under the stove, or maybe you will have another stove, which means there will be two foundations. Also create a frame with a reinforcing bar strap and pour concrete. Decide the need for installing embedded parts in concrete - this is important.
• Decide on how to drain the effluents into the washing room and leave them outside the bath (this issue will be considered in the following articles). Make a box for the hole and passage of the sewer pipe in the foundation wall.

I hope this article helped you determine your capabilities in building your own bath with your own hands, and the process of building it on a turnkey basis has inspired you. Expect the next articles. Good luck!

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If you have your own piece of land, then one of the objects can be a do-it-yourself bath. Projects, photos and features of construction work are presented on our website. For construction, you can choose any interesting option or project from our review.

So, in order to build a quality building, you need to think through the following points:

• find the perfect project;
• think over each stage of work;
• purchase suitable material;
• plan all communications;
• the important point is the interior decoration.

A beautiful bathhouse on the site can be not only a functional building, but also a luxurious element of landscape design

To make a bathhouse correctly and correctly choose its location, you need to adhere to all SNiP norms. Important attention should be paid to the material for the construction of the building. The choice of location should be carried out taking into account some distances in relation to other objects.

Before building a bath, take into account the features of the site: design, climatic conditions and soil characteristics, features of the local landscape area and soil properties. If the territory is uneven, then it is better to carry out construction on an elevated area, since this will ensure an optimal water flow. You should not install such a building on sandy ground. In any case, the foundation should be strengthened. The harder the soil layer, the better. Most often, the construction of such structures is planned from the leeward side of the main buildings. This placement protects against heavy rainfall.

• budget wood concrete is often used. At the same time, the building turns out to be warm and durable.

Bath from a bar

How to build such buildings depends on the material options. Projects can be made from the following materials:

• natural wood;
• edged timber;
• glued laminated timber;
• profiled timber;
• rounded logs.

There are several ways how to build a bath with your own hands. A simple option can be seen in the video:

Most often, construction is carried out using rounded logs and beams. A log sauna is a simpler option than rounded logs. is a cheaper material than logs. Construction from a bar is carried out using.

When deciding how to make a building from a bar, you must follow some rules. Such a construction refers to light structures, so you can use a shallow or unburied foundation.

How and what kind of foundation to make depends on the type of soil. For clay and swampy soil, the columnar option is not suitable. In this case, or is used.

Before deciding how to lay the timber, it is necessary to carry out waterproofing. To do this, an interlayer is distributed on the surface of the foundation, and a sheet of roofing material on top. Then the second layer is applied. And the boards adjacent to the foundation are treated with antiseptic solutions. This is how we build a bath, regardless of whether it is small or large. A common variant of construction work is a small semi-timber bath.

When deciding how to build a sauna yourself, you must first choose high-quality wood. The material is most often procured from December to March. Blanks 150 × 150 or 100 × 150 are made from felled trees. In this case, they must be cleaned of the bark. It is important to inspect the material before construction work. There should be no signs of decay or cracks on it. The wood should be smooth and even. When choosing bars, drawings and dimensions must be prepared in advance. In this case, the purpose of the material is important, for example, a floor made of edged boards. When self-erecting, you need to know how step-by-step construction is carried out and how to connect 3 × 4 or 4 × 4 logs.

It is important to know how to install 50x150 boards on the edge, as well as options for extending the length. There are such connection options as in the paw and in the oblo. For a structure made of profiled timber, the method is suitable in the field, in which the connection is made when creating key grooves.

Frame bath in the country

Consider a variety of software projects. The walls are lattice structures. For walls you will need:

How to build such a structure depends on the underlying project. This construction technology has many advantages. This is a high installation speed and low labor intensity. According to reviews, this is an economical construction. The finished building is characterized by rapid heating of the premises. A mini bath or even a 4 × 6 or 6 × 6 construction does not require long-term shrinkage. There is also a large selection of materials, both for interior and exterior decoration. You can use different options for the foundation, for example, strip or on piles.

How to make such a structure is demonstrated by a photo report, where the photo shows a detailed diagram and features of the construction of such structures. Such structures also have certain disadvantages. First of all, careful thermal insulation of such structures is required. Also, such structures have a short service life. Depending on the projects: 3 × 4, 2 × 4 or 3 × 5, drawings are selected. The finished project must contain working drawings with the correct assembly of the structure, with utilities and a bill of materials.

We build a bath with our own hands: a brief description of the stages of construction

Any construction of a bathhouse in the country requires careful planning. Before starting construction, it is necessary to carry out markings on the site. To do this, you need a project, according to which marks on the ground are made. How to start marking out the dimensions depends on where the corner of the building is located. This is where the report is kept from scratch. In this case, the peg is hammered, and the lengths of the sides are measured from it. Then the compact pegs are installed and the other walls are measured as well.

The bath design and dimensions are indicated in accordance with the project data. After that, the markup is made depending on. When building a bathhouse with your own hands from stone, brick or blocks, it is necessary to level the foundation. In this case, it fits, and then roofing material on top.

How to build a building will depend on what material it will be erected from - from boards or from. Specialists can show the installation features. Useful videos can be found on YouTube.

If brickwork is used, start at the corners. In this case, the first blocks are placed on the cement slurry. They must be in the same plane. If you don't know how to do this correctly, use a string as a guide.

In the video below, you can watch a step-by-step demonstration of construction work:

After installing jumpers over windows or doors, an armored belt is mounted and then made. Foundation bolts are attached to this part. A simple or panel structure involves the construction of a timber frame. This element is sheathed and insulated with various types of finishing materials. To make the frame, boards from aspen, linden or larch are used, since these options are characterized by low.

Timber strapping from a bar is made on the foundation. In this case, cuts are made at the ends of the bars and are attached to each other with self-tapping screws. For small bars, metal corners are used.

Let's note the main stages of making a frame base:

Any sauna is exposed to high humidity, so the steam room is treated with a vapor barrier film. This will protect against moisture build-up from the inside. Fiberglass or rock wool can be used as insulating material. These options provide excellent sealing performance. The walls are insulated and cladded after the installation of the roof. This approach will protect wood and insulation materials from getting wet.

Particular attention should be paid. Before choosing equipment for a bath, it is necessary to completely complete construction work. The finished building is equipped with pieces of furniture and all the necessary equipment. A country bath can be made from various materials, but not from a slab.

The foundation for a bath with your own hands: step by step instructions

How to build a sauna building depends on the type of foundation used. It is worth noting the following options:

• slab foundation is not often performed. It is suitable for massive and complex buildings. The markings are made according to the dimensions of the building or a little more;
• you can make a strip foundation for a 4 × 4 bath with your own hands. In this case, the marking is done so that the tape runs along the perimeter of the building;
• columnar is used for the installation of wooden structures. Depending on the dimensions 3 × 4, 3 × 5 or 3 × 6, the marking is made according to the number of supports;
• ... The advantage of this option is the ease of installation. With its help, installation on a foundation is possible even with an inclined area. The marking is carried out by the number of piles.

Even construction without a foundation is possible. Shallow strip foundations can be used when the soil is hard and dry, as well as low groundwater levels and structures that are not very heavy. The shallow version is the simplest. Here are the main points to consider:

How the screw foundation is mounted can be seen in the video below:

Bath with a shower in the country: how to supply and drain water

There are different ways how to equip a shower inside the bath with your own hands. There is even a dedicated step-by-step guide. The photo report demonstrates different options for installing a shower. The easiest option for cooling is to mount a simple wooden bucket on the wall. Water can be poured there through a water pipe with a tap. In this case, no special heating is required. In the photo below you can see a shower with hydromassage jets. In this case, it is necessary to consider water heating, as well as pressure using pumping equipment.

A shower does not require a large area, it is enough to allocate a little space in the dressing room. Necessarily . It is necessary to equip a drain for the bath. You can also make an outdoor shower inside the bath. In this case, you do not need to equip a separate booth in the yard. Even in an already built building, you can find a corner for a washing room. But at the same time, you will need to build a drain in the bath.

Instructions for building a roof of a bath with your own hands

When building a bath, you need to figure out how to mount the roof. The stages of such construction can be seen below:

The options for creating a roof may be different, but in any case, you need to think about waterproofing and thermal insulation. Without waterproofing, steam will pass into the attic and settle on the rafters and beams. In this case, condensation can drain onto the insulation, which will affect the durability of the material. It is important to take into account some of the features of buildings:

Organization of the internal equipment of the bathhouse in the country

An important point is the arrangement of the internal environment. Various indoor photos will help you decide how to make the interior inside. Any projects should start with installation. This design will reduce the concentration of hot air.

After the construction is completed, it is done outside with your own hands. Another important point is. In case of insufficient ventilation, electric heating will provoke a decrease in the oxygen level.

It is necessary to remember about constant temperature control. A mercury thermometer must not be installed. Better get a bath thermometer. To control humidity, apply -.

The interior decoration deserves special attention. The most suitable material is wood. Not a bad solution and an economy option - lining. Wall decoration should be done in pastel colors. It is worth considering the floor in the bath.

The step-by-step instruction assumes the stages of finishing work, as well as the planning of lighting and ventilation. must be of high quality. Also consider sauna accessories. The step-by-step guide also provides good soundproofing.

Article

For a Russian person, a bath is not a luxury, but a vital necessity. Even historians are convinced that love for a bath broom and good heat is literally in our blood, and even in the poorest villages nearby, new steam rooms were regularly built every five years (the old ones burned down). And Peter I, during a trip to France, could not stand two days without his own steam, urgently ordering to build a Russian bath right on the bank of a foreign river, which shocked the natives a lot. But what if building is so expensive today, and public steam rooms are not to everyone's liking? And if rest in the steam room is not just useful procedures, but also valuable communication with friends, barbecue and the opportunity to breathe fresh air? Then we will learn the cunning tricks of modern Russian craftsmen who manage to build their steam rooms literally for vacation pay.

So, let's look at the most successful projects for the construction of baths and their implementation, where the main task was to save as much as possible, but at the same time not to lose in the comfort of bath procedures. After all, as they say, the most budgetary bath is the vestibule of a summer commuter train.

What can and cannot be saved on when building a bath?

Agree, no savings are worth the loss of health, property or life. But the most sad situations occur when the question of cheapness is approached thoughtlessly: such baths first slowly poison their owners by releasing hazardous substances, and then either burn or deteriorate quickly. But this does not mean that it is better to give up and give all the hard-earned money to the conscience of the construction team - it is better to just give up dangerous use during construction from the very beginning:

1. Uncertified materials and fakes, for which unscrupulous sellers ask for several times less. And at the same time they convince the buyer that "there is no difference with the expensive material, there is simply no markup for the brand, my brother / matchmaker / son-in-law has had a bath with this for half a century, and nothing."
2. Materials that are strictly not intended for the construction and decoration of baths. So, if it is impossible to insulate the walls in the sauna with foam plastic, then it is impossible, and this is not a whim of the manufacturer. Again, a neighbor who, at his own peril and risk, insulated in this way and is now showing off is not an example.
3. Unsuitable accessories for conducting electricity in the bath (wires, sockets), unprotected lamps or cheap Chinese products.
4. Homemade stoves and water heaters that no one has tested for fire safety.
5. Combustible materials and those that do not indicate that they can be used in conditions of high humidity and heat.

If you are building a bathhouse with your own hands and are forced to save as much as possible on materials, calculate your every step well, consult with experts and do not leave anything unattended “it seems to work”. And finally, save on a limited budget better on cubic meters of the steam room, but not on the materials of its finishing. Such is the advice.

Let's take a little look at affordable heaters. So, basalt wool is made of stone (basalt). Its main advantage is that the fibers inside the insulation are not connected chemically, but by another technology, and therefore, even when placed behind the foil in the steam room, hazardous substances will not be released. This insulation is non-flammable and insulates the firebox well. For a bath - the best option. If you want to save money, then put one layer of basalt wool and a couple of layers of another, cheaper material on the ceiling.

Penofol is also used as an economical option - porous propylene with polyethylene film and foil spraying. You can buy it in roll form and attach it directly to a bare wall. This material is a good heat bridge between the wall itself and the insulation.

1. Purchase a stove without a remote firebox - so much less firewood will be spent on heating the steam room, and such a unit is inexpensive.
2. Be sure to install a water tank - this is the fastest and most economical way.
3. Make the foundation for the bath cheap and removable: it is much cheaper and easier with it to carry out repair work and change it to another.
4. Pay maximum attention to the insulation of the bath - the less you “heat the street”, the more economical the heating itself will be.
5. Stick a bubble wrap on the window in the break room in winter - this will keep you warm by at least 50%.
6. Instead of a regular shower or shower stall, put a traditional Russian tub. And healthier, by the way. And it is not at all necessary to pour only ice water into it.
7. When purchasing lining, take short-sized bars - they are cheaper and look no worse.
8. Build the roof of the bathhouse low, no more than the ratio of width to height 1: 3. Much less materials will be spent on such a structure, and the chimney also does not need to be made high.

Project # 1 - a compact sauna at a minimum cost

So, a step-by-step process:

• Step 1 - foundation. We will make the foundation columnar. To do this, you will need to get a 2 meter auger drill. Use ordinary cheap 110 mm sewer pipes as casing. Insert the reinforcement from two connected rods.

• Step 2 - strapping. Place studs 500 mm long under the harness. Assemble the strapping 150x150, and prepare the frame racks with a height of 2200 mm. Treat the frame with Neomid 440 or some other suitable for the same purpose.
• Step 3 - walls. You can modify the walls directly on the harness, and just raise them. We cover the DSP. To do this, we pre-drill the plates, and then fasten them with self-tapping screws with a semicircular head.
• Step 4 - the roof. We cover the roof with eight-wave slate. We save!
• Step 5 - insulation. Now we put in any inexpensive insulation that is suitable for a bath. In this project - Linrock Light.
• Step 6 - oven. We put an inexpensive oven, you can make a homemade one. But under any, we must additionally lay out a brick corner.
• Step 7 - finishing. We fix the lining, skirting boards, cash holders.

So a compact and inexpensive steam room is ready.

If the walls, due to savings, are not too strong, then the smaller the bath is in volume, the better - so its structural properties will be higher.

Project # 2 - arbolite is used

And here is a good example of the construction of a budget bath from wood concrete - the price does not come out much more expensive than the frame technology. So, the outer walls of the steam room will be 20 cm thick, inside there is a brick partition from the stove.

This is how the construction process looks like:

• Step 1. We dig a drain pit with dimensions of 1.2x1.8x1.4 m. On both sides, we fill the OPGS with stones, make the formwork, fill it.
• Step 2. We dig a foundation 30 cm wide, up to 50 cm deep. We fill it with sand and ram.
• Step 3. We put the formwork, reinforce two rods at the top and bottom. We put vertical rods every meter. We fill the foundation.
• Step 4. We put EPSP in the washing and steam room, the mesh and fill the floors. In the washing room, we additionally organize a drain.

• Step 5. We put the blocks, check the evenness of the walls with a level.
• Step 6. We make the roof using 50x100 boards. The optimal distance between the rafters is 55-80 cm. We cover.
• Step 7. We cook the oven or buy a budget ready-made one. The ventilation scheme is as follows: outside the air goes to the gap between the stove and the brick wall, where it heats up.
• Step 8. Install the shower tank in the attic.
• Step 9. We decorate the walls from the inside. If possible, use Izospan FB - a special material for baths, plus heat-resistant tape. Izolon is good for the ceiling, which can withstand temperatures up to 150 ° C.

Such is the budget and quite successful bath.

When choosing wood concrete, pay attention: according to its density, it can be heat-insulating and structural. The first has a density of 400-500 kg / m, the second - 500-850 kg / m. This material is used for the construction of self-supporting walls and has good heat and sound insulation.

Project # 3 - miniature log bathhouse in national style

And if you can't imagine a Russian steam room made of another material, like a bar, you can build such a relatively budget option.

• Step 1. Align the platform for the foundation from the dropout, put together the "formwork" and leave only the opening for draining water from the washing room.
• Step 2. We spread the EPS, knit the reinforcement cage. We fill it with concrete, make a ramp for water and the foundation is ready.
• Step 3. Laying the log house. Under the first crown we put a board treated with an antiseptic, which we cover with roofing material on three sides. You can put moss on the board itself - it has antiseptic properties, and therefore the bath crown will last even longer.
• Step 4. We build the walls and leave it for several months to shrink.
• Step 5. Fasten the rafters and cover the roof. We make a pipe passage through the overlap - it is easy to make it from a metal corner and a sheet of stainless steel.
• Step 6. Between the steam room and the dressing room we make a frame partition, insulate it with mineral wool and sheathe it with clapboard on both sides.
• Step 7. We spread the floor in front of the stove with porcelain stoneware. We leave a special hole in the floor for supply ventilation.
• Step 8. We remove the pipe from the stove through the roof. The passage is made of Master-flush rubber, which is resistant to temperature. Seal the joint with the roofing with MS-polymer.
• Step 9. We fix the shelves in the steam room and connect the electricity.

Remember, the first step to huge savings when building your own bath is to build it yourself!

Project # 4 - steam room on a light frame from improvised means

Bars for the bath frame can be made even from collected firewood, if desired. The main thing is only to choose one without defects and knots, and be sure to treat it with an antiseptic.

So, we are building a budget bath from improvised means:

• Step 1. We make beams for the frame, process and dry.
• Step 2. We build a pile-rubble foundation: we pull out the soil by a meter with a drill, forget there thick pine stakes and make a backfill of concrete and stones on top. Next, fill in the pillars to the top.
• Step 4. Assembling the frame.
• Step 5. Dig a hole under the drain, insert a barrel with broken bricks and rubble inside, take a ladder there. This is not an insulated summer option, but for a winter one you can lay a heater or a heating cable.
• Step 6. and the ceiling, put a film on top of the insulation. We put Finnish foil paper for saunas on the walls and ceiling.
• Step 7. We put the oven. Take with the register, tk. water heating is needed for washing - in order not to purchase a separate boiler. So, it has proven itself well - inexpensive and heats well.

Such a bath serves surprisingly for a long time, the steam pleases and it is a pleasure to spend time in it. And you can always find cons.

Mini-baths: cheap and cheerful

But if there is no money at all for the construction of a steam room, you should not despair - today there are many options to build a steam room out of nothing. Let's take a closer look.

Barrel bath

This is the most common, only of a more solid size. Part of it is covered by a wooden lattice screen, behind which the stove is hidden. There is a small bench in front of the screen. Even three people can steam at the same time in such a bath. But this option is only for summer: they rolled it out onto the site, put it horizontally, threw firewood into the stove and you can pour water on the stones. But as a low-budget option - very much even nothing.

Hiking bath

Such a bath is taken mainly on a hike, but if there is no other alternative, it can be used on the site. It will be inexpensive, because it is an ordinary tent in which they put a stove or electric. This is no longer the same soft Russian bath, but as a temporary phenomenon it also has a right to exist.

Built-in mini-sauna

There is also a fashion to do in the bathroom. So, we transfer the washing machine to the kitchen, and in its place we build something that looks like a wardrobe. This is a small structure, about 1.5 m high, made of a frame and upholstered with clapboard. Inside there is one seat shelf and a built-in steam generator. The person sits down, closes the door, turns on the device. But his head remains outside - for the sake of safety. Using special aromatic oils and other SPA-elements is quite a good way to improve your health. We can say that this is the smallest and cheapest bath in the world.

Baths in the car

If you have the opportunity to get a non-working minibus or a car with a body, you can build a small bathhouse right in them. Our website even has detailed master classes on how to do this, and such an undertaking will turn out to be much more profitable than starting the construction of a steam room with pouring the foundation. Experiment!

The bathhouse is one of the integral parts of Russian life. Despite modern technologies and development, it is unlikely that our compatriot will refuse the opportunity to take a steam bath in the bathhouse, which he built with his own hands on the site. Even if you are not the happy owner of a city mansion, it can be built in the country. Many people dream of their own bath, but how can you make your dreams come true?

Bath from foundation to roof with your own hands. Construction features

Classic Russian baths are, of course, wooden buildings. They have some similarities to the Finnish sauna. For their construction, a log house is cut and cut from the inside. On the territory of Russia, pine and some other types of wood are used for construction as a building material. The main indicator when choosing is the minimum amount of resinous substances, because when heated and humid, such material begins to "sweat".

The very technology of erecting a log bath has its own characteristics and differences from the construction of a residential hut. First of all, these are increased requirements for the characteristics and quality of the material. The logs must be seasoned, straight and capable of providing a good connection.

Particular attention is paid to tightness indicators. Unwarranted heat loss will be very noticeable, which reduces efficiency. For maximum preservation of temperature, caulking the walls is carried out with the help of moss or tow.

A bathhouse built from a bar or logs has an impressive and attractive appearance, but not everyone can afford the price of such a structure. A cheaper option is to use frame-panel technologies. It requires a small amount of materials, and the foundation itself will have lower costs, since mineral wool or similar analogs are used as insulation. In this case, there is no need to erect a massive foundation due to the low weight of the entire structure.

The advantage of the frame walls for the bath is the absence of the building upsetting. Nevertheless, there are also disadvantages of using frames - this is the appearance of moisture during snowstorms and rains. It is formed during the condensation of vapors. To avoid such troubles, waterproofing is used.

• The correct approach begins with the preparation of estimate documentation. It will allow you to display prices for all types of work and the necessary materials. In addition, the estimate will allow for adjustments and reallocation of the budget.

• After that, you can start creating a bath project. Without skills and abilities in this area, you will not be able to think through everything to the smallest detail. Therefore, it is best to invite a professional architect who will draw up drawings with the basic requirements and wishes of the client.

• One of the main stages in the construction of a bath is the selection of materials for the foundation. This building element directly affects the durability and strength of the entire structure.

• Next, you need to select the most optimal price and quality materials for walls and roofs. Today the construction market has a lot of proposals that can satisfy the wishes of everyone.

• When building a bathhouse, special attention is required to internal communications, such as electricity and running water.

• Depending on the size of the bath space and personal wishes, it is necessary to choose a stove and think over the place of its installation.

• The final stage in the construction of a bath is finishing work inside the premises.

Bath from foundation to roof with your own hands

First you need to decide on the location on the site. This requires special attention from the owner. The choice itself depends on the size of the territory and the evenness of the surface. It is also worth considering the geometric parameters of the bath itself. It is worth considering the most optimal conditions for supplying communications in the future. To support the bathing traditions, it is built in the vicinity of reservoirs, in order to feel all the charm and contrast of sensations, plunging into cool water.

Development of a project for the construction of a bath

In the classic style, the bathhouse consists of three rooms: an anteroom, a steam room and a washing room. Quite often, the last rooms are combined into one. The dressing room is necessary for the location of the locker, benches, table and chairs. It is in it that the company gathers for friendly gatherings. Shelves of bath accessories, firewood or coal are also installed here.

The foundation for a bath with your own hands

Like other buildings, a bath requires the construction of a foundation, which must be laid to the depth of soil freezing. In this case, it is necessary to decide on the material for the walls. This is necessary to calculate the maximum loads, since the massiveness of the base itself will differ from the weight of the wall.

If you plan to erect stone walls, then you will need a strip foundation from rubble stone. Concrete, iron ore and brick can act as a material for the foundation. At the same time, it is necessary to understand that red and silicate bricks are destroyed in the ground due to the effect of moisture.

Having chosen the material, it is necessary to erect the foundation half a meter above the soil level. To level the surface, use a cement-sand mortar. After drying, it is necessary to lay the roofing material on the mastic. This will cut off the moisture coming from the ground from the building.

What type of foundation to choose for a bath

For a bath, you can use several options for the foundation. Their choice depends on the depth of the groundwater, the geometric dimensions of the structure and the materials of the walls. The most effective for a bath are:

• Lightweight tape made of concrete with a belt of reinforcement. It is used in the construction of simple structures that have a small specific weight. To create a strip foundation, rubble stone or concrete is used. They are fastened with a solution. For the device, it is necessary to prepare a pit with a gravel or sand cushion, 15 centimeters thick. As for the width of such a foundation, it depends on the size of the bath and the type of construction.

• Columnar with supporting concrete brick or metal pillars. This type is used for deep bedding of soil waters. It consists of supporting pillars located at the corners and around the perimeter. The distance between such posts should not exceed two meters. Concrete, brick, asbestos-cement or metal pipes are used as the material for the supports. They are buried in the ground to a certain depth, after which they are poured with concrete.

• Floating. This is an alternative option for which a monolithic slab is used. It can be used on any soil, regardless of the depth of the soil moisture. To arrange such a foundation, it is enough to dig a trench with a depth of 50-60 centimeters, at the bottom of which gravel or sand is poured. After that, a layer of waterproofing is laid and poured with concrete.

• A screw foundation is used when building a bath on loose or unstable soil. It is created using helical pipes that have a pointed tip for easy penetration into the ground. It should be noted that the immersion depth of the piles may vary. The pillars are screwed into the soil by two or three people.

• Pile-screw grillage. It is used as an additional strapping using metal channels or timber.

In practice, people want to build a wooden bathhouse because of its unique properties. In this case, the most optimal type of foundation for building a bath with your own hands is a columnar one. Unlike other options, it has a number of advantages:

1. The device of a columnar foundation is within the power of almost everyone. This does not require special knowledge or the use of construction equipment.
2. A wide range of materials that can be used: concrete, brick and metal pipes.
3. The minimum cost of effort and time for its construction. Unlike concrete pouring, it dries very quickly.
4. This option is most effective for a bath, since ventilation and water drainage systems are very easy to organize.

Preparing the foundation trench

For example, let's take the conditions in which the soil freezes up to 70 centimeters, and the soil water is located at a depth of one meter. In this case, it is necessary to use support pillars with a diameter of 200 millimeters, deepened one meter into the ground.

First, you need to create a preliminary layout of all support pillars. They must be placed along the perimeter of the future building in one and a half meter increments. Additional supports are installed at the intersection of walls and corners. After marking all the pillars, holes must be drilled. They should have a diameter of 50 millimeters larger than the pipes themselves. The bottom of the pits is filled with sand 20 centimeters thick, followed by tamping.

After that, pipes are prepared, which should protrude from the ground by at least 40 centimeters. As a result, they will be 1.4 meters long. Before installation in the ground, the piles are wrapped in roofing material. During the installation process, the pipes are covered with fine gravel or screenings, which will add additional strength to the structure. Bars are mounted in the supports for reinforcing the structure. The last stage is concreting.

Features of the foundation for the sauna stove

The design of the foundation depends to a large extent on the type of heating furnace that will be used. If you plan to use a device weighing more than 500 kilograms, it is worth considering creating a separate concrete cushion for the stove. To do this, you can use two options:

1. A columnar or strip foundation with additional structural reinforcement is created over the entire area of ​​the furnace.
2. Another widely used option is a monolithic concrete pad. It is placed exclusively under the oven.

Do-it-yourself water drainage in the bath

When creating a bath, you need to think about an effective system for removing water from the room. As you know, moisture is the enemy of buildings and reduces the life of materials. Because of this, water must be diverted at least 3-5 meters from the structure. In the floor of the bath, it is necessary to equip a drain, which through the pipe system will remove moisture into the sewer. Pipes must be laid below the freezing line with a slope of 3 centimeters per meter. You can also use surface trenches with a depth of up to half a meter, the walls of which are lined with clay.

The option of arranging the drainage system largely depends on the volume of water and, of course, material capabilities. However, it must be understood that there is a risk of icing when using a surface gutter. This situation can lead to uncontrolled flow on the ground surface.

If the water leaves the bath with the help of a drain, the slopes in the floor must be carefully calculated. If the floors are filled with cement, then the drainage is not a particular problem, since modern bottom drain systems with pipes will divert the required volume.

Another element is a sewer well, which has several versions. If there is no drain well on your site, then a separate system must be built for the bath. At the same time, a size of 1 cubic meter is sufficient.

Digging a well will not be a problem. So that it does not crumble during operation, it is necessary to lay out the walls with bricks or cinder blocks. Many owners use car tires. For better filtration of the removed moisture in the wells, it is necessary to equip additional horizontal channels.

Bath floor device

First of all, under the future floor, it is necessary to cut off the living layer along with the sod. If the bathhouse is being built on a summer cottage, the land should not be taken out, since it can be used on the site in the future. The soil must be cut to a depth of 15 centimeters. After leveling the surface, you can start working.

The best material for a bath floor is a wooden board. The flooring should not be done above the level of the foundation, but a strong lowering is also unacceptable, since the flooring will absorb moisture from the ground. Additional posts from bricks need to be installed under the wooden logs. A grooved board is laid on all frames.

To drain water from the sink, perforation is made in the floor. It must be remembered that there is high humidity in the bath, which affects the wood. Because of this, it is necessary to leave gaps between the boards, which will allow the material to move without further deformation.

Another option for flooring is an earthen floor. To do this, you need to use a greasy clay that will not let water through. The water drainage system can be performed from the gutters. In order not to get your feet dirty on the clay, wooden lattices are installed. In this case, it is worth paying special attention to the efficiency of the drainage, since an unpleasant odor may appear during stagnant water.

As with other buildings, the floor can be made of concrete. This will facilitate the laying of communication systems and increase the service life.

Building the walls of the bath with your own hands

After completing the previous steps, you can start building the walls. A wide range of materials can be used for this. In the standard view, a bathhouse is a wooden structure, but nowadays it can be created from brick, concrete or rubble stone.

There are standards for wall thicknesses from different materials. The thickness of the concrete or brick for the walls should be 51 centimeters (two bricks). Using a rubble stone, these indicators are increased up to 75 centimeters. As for the wood, a thickness of 20 centimeters is sufficient.

Using wood as a building material for the walls of the bath, preparation is necessary. The main thing is that the logs are well dried and sanded. It is better not to use material damaged by insects or rot.

Of course, using concrete or brick, there are no such problems, but the structure itself will be colder. In addition, condensation forms from the constant temperature drop, which will need to be dealt with. When using wood, moisture is not a problem as it is quickly absorbed into the fibers and excreted through the pores.

For maximum protection of the log house for the bath, it is necessary to process it with special antiseptics and fire retardants. It is worth noting that wooden walls cannot be plastered, since moisture will not be removed to the outside. As a result, decay of the logs may appear. It is not superfluous to use steam and waterproofing of the structure.

Choosing a material for the construction of bath walls

At the beginning of the construction of a bath from the foundation to the roof with your own hands, a lot of questions arise, what and how to do. One of the main ones is the choice of material for the construction of walls. Today, experienced professionals in the industry advise using the following options:

• Profiled timber is one of the most popular and demanded materials for building a bath. They have a huge number of benefits. The main one is low thermal conductivity. In addition, the timber has an attractive appearance, gives clear and neat lines to the building. When choosing a profiled bar, you need to wait some time for the material to shrink, after which a professional caulking of the log house is carried out.

• Glued laminated timber is perfect for a bath, since it has a flat surface and does not require additional finishing work. Unlike profiled timber, this material does not require additional time for shrinkage. Because of this, the bath can be used immediately after the completion of all work. When using laminated veneer lumber, the walls retain heat perfectly, and the material is not subject to decay. It is worth noting that it is excellently resistant to chemicals and rodents. The only drawback is the high price, but it can adequately justify its quality in practice.

• Quite often, planed timber is used for the walls of the bath. This is, indeed, a high-quality and affordable material that combines excellent performance in heat and sound insulation of a room.

• Most owners use logs to build a classic Russian bath. Of course, a chopped structure has its own subtleties during construction, which must be observed. One of the features is the observance of the straightness of the fibers. Kinks in the wood grain are a clear indication of poor material quality. In addition, the service life depends on this indicator. After the construction of the walls from the logs, it is necessary to dig in the gaps and crevices.

• To create not only a high-quality, but also an attractive building, rounded logs are often used in the construction of a bath. The material is reliable and very durable. The disadvantage is the shrinkage time, which is one year. Only after waiting for the final shrinkage, you can continue finishing work and laying communication systems.

• One of the economical options is to use a wireframe. This is an excellent solution, since the structure itself will be lightweight, which in turn will save on the foundation. However, the main advantage is the speed of construction. Subject to the technology, such structures have excellent characteristics and can last a very long time.

• For maximum safety and durability of the bath, brick is used as a material for the walls. It is a modern and affordable material that is widely used in all types of construction. To prevent the bath from being cold, it is worth making the walls two bricks thick.

• To date, the cheapest option for building walls in a bath is a cinder block. This material also makes it quick and easy to complete construction.

• Aerated concrete is modern and of high quality. Due to the excellent resistance to moisture, the structure will last a very long time. At the same time, the thermal conductivity of aerated concrete is very low.

Features and benefits of aerated concrete bath:

1. The blocks are relatively lightweight, which significantly reduces the pressure of the finished structure on the foundation.
2. Perfectly protects the room from wind and frost.
3. The porous structure allows moisture to wick away.
4. Quick and easy installation work.
5. Construction does not require the use of specialized tools or equipment.

The advantages of a bar when erecting the walls of a bath:

1. The material does not require additional finishing. With personal initiative, you can carry out simple manipulations to improve the appearance of the building.
2. The beam is convenient for installation and does not require the use of complex technologies.
3. Using this material, there is no need for additional insulation.
4. The timber is a durable and environmentally friendly material.

The technology of laying beams for the walls of the bath

A bath from the foundation to the roof with your own hands will last a very long time, if you adhere to the technology of laying beams. This material is tightly laid to the pins along the entire perimeter of the erected foundation. For the strength of the structure, holes with a diameter of 25 millimeters are made in the timber. At the ends, cut-outs are made for grooves or tenons. Insulation materials are laid at the place where the elements are connected to each other.

Professionals recommend using larch beams for the lower rows. This wood practically does not lend itself to decay processes and perfectly withstands temperature extremes. After that, you can use material from any wood species. Before starting to fold the walls, it is necessary to prepare blanks that will correspond to the geometric parameters of the future bath. After that, they are collected in boxes.

In parallel with the construction of walls, it is necessary to insert window openings and door blocks. You also need to remember that the joints between the bars should not be very tight. The formed gaps are filled with insulation.

The order of laying the beams

• The second wreath is laid on the first beam, which lies on the foundation. After that, through holes are made in the upper one, the lower one is drilled to half.

• After that, the upper bar is removed. Dowels are driven into the holes made, the length of which should be one and a half times the height of the bar.

• Before applying the next row, tow is applied along the entire length. Only then can the following beams be applied and the dowel can be hammered.

• It is imperative to cut down the dowel. Its height must be more than 2 centimeters. This will allow you to firmly fix the bars and avoid lifting in the future.

If you decide to use a different material for the construction of walls in the bath, then the technology is the same as in conventional construction. At the same time, do not forget about door and window openings. In the steam room, the installation of glass blocks will be relevant, which effectively withstand high temperatures, moisture and perfectly transmit light.

Bath slab and roof

Only dry wood is used as a material for covering the bath. These can be boards, slabs, or plates. The final choice depends on whether the attic will be used in the future or not. If you plan to use this space only as thermal insulation for a bath, then you can safely use a croaker. This will save money. But if you plan to use the attic for your own needs, you need to use high-quality materials that can withstand the weight of a person or the property stored there.

The front side of the ceiling requires sanding to create a more beautiful look. If plastering is planned in the future, then this procedure is not carried out.

As for the attic side of the floor, it should be covered with tar paper or roofing felt. As insulation, you can use furnace slag or backfill with earth, the layer of which should be 20 centimeters. Before filling the soil, it is necessary to sift it to remove the roots or seeds of the plants. You can also take adobe as insulation for the attic of the bath. This is a layer of straw and clay. This is very common because it will allow the clay to trap fumes and prevent fires.

Bath doors

Do-it-yourself doors for a bath can be made on dowels; this will require boards with a thickness of 4-5 centimeters. With the material opportunity, you can buy ready-made structures. In any case, it must be borne in mind that the effect of steam will increase their size. Due to this, it is necessary to observe the technological gap so that there are no problems with opening in the future.

Steam room doors should have a width and height of 70x170 centimeters. If desired, they can be higher. The disadvantage of a high doorway is the dissipation of heat accumulated at the top of the room when they are opened. To avoid drafts in a heated room, it is necessary to make the threshold quite high, from 15 centimeters. Despite the slight discomfort, it avoids the unpleasant cold that stretches over the legs.

Bath windows

Like any other building, the bathhouse must have windows, the total area of ​​which must be at least 10% of the entire floor area. By adhering to these standards, you will get sufficient daylight. It will also help fight mold and mildew that will dry out when exposed to sunlight.

Taking into account the rather cool climate of Russia, the windows must be placed at a height of 80 centimeters above the floor. If you plan to place two window frames side by side, it is worth leaving a wall half a meter wide. When installing adjacent frames, a gap of 15 centimeters is required.

As you know, through the glass is an active release of heat from the building. To reduce these losses, it is worth using designs with two or three glasses. For maximum tightness, the formed gaps between the box and the window are sealed with tow or similar insulating material.

As for the size and geometry of the windows in the bath, they can be made at the request of the owner. There are no strict criteria in this aspect.

Furnace device in the bath

A do-it-yourself bathhouse from foundation to roof cannot exist without a special oven that will produce heat. Their configurations can be very diverse.

The most optimal and effective option for a bath is a stone stove. When creating it, it is necessary to carefully bandage each seam on the masonry, and the seams themselves are made as thin as possible. Fired and refractory bricks are used for construction. The lower level of the sauna stove should be 10 centimeters above the floor level.

At the request of the owner himself, you can place the firebox in the washing room itself or on the side of the dressing room. The latter option is more convenient, since it is drier in the dressing room. Despite all this, three sides of the oven should be brought out into the washing room, which will significantly increase the heat transfer. It is also worth leaving a gap of 25 centimeters from the walls of the building. This will allow the room to heat up faster.

Design features of the sauna stove

Do not think that building a stove yourself is very difficult. By their design, the furnaces may differ slightly from each other, but still they are made according to the same principle.

The entire heating structure is installed on a ground base. For maximum strength and safety, a layer of rubble or rubble is placed under the stove, and the gaps are covered with sand. Next, the foundation itself for the furnace is created, while it must have a flat surface.

For laying out the furnace, fired brick is used, and a sandy-clay solution with a small proportion of cement is taken as a binding material. When making the mortar, it is worth adding more sand, as excess clay will create cracks and reduce viscosity. In addition to the firebox, a blower is laid out for traction, which is located below. For efficiency, it should have an area half the size of the firebox itself.

Frames and doors for the stove must be bought in the store, since it is problematic to make such structures on your own.

The back of the oven should be covered with a 10 mm thick sheet of quality metal. To improve the efficiency of heat transfer, it is better to use cast iron throughout the entire length and width of the furnace. This will be the work surface that will give off heat. A chimney hole with a diameter of 150 millimeters is cut out in the center of the sheet. An afterburner with a height of 70 centimeters is installed in it. For this manufacture, a pipe with a diameter of 30 centimeters is suitable. This chamber is necessary for extinguishing sparks and afterburning gases.

The entire structure of the afterburner and the heater is covered with 5 mm steel. As for the stove, it is filled with stones by 1/3. It should have one door mounted on the side of the washing room, and the second one goes into the steam room. A steel pipe is used to remove smoke from the stove. All gaps between the furnace structure and the pipe are sealed with mortar.

A water heating tank is installed near the afterburner system. Its volume should be within one hundred liters. It can have a wide variety of geometric shapes. The main thing is that the bottom is in contact with the stove tiles.

A variety of wood species can be used to fire a stove in a bath. It should be noted that conifers give a large amount of resins. When using oak, you get a lot of heat and a minimum of soot. You can use coal or gas, but not worth it, because they do not have the same spirit.

A similar design of the sauna stove gives light steam and low consumption of firewood. With a full tank, the water can be heated up to 90 ° C. These are the most optimal indicators for a Russian bath.

Bath interior and interior decoration

The bathhouse from the foundation to the roof with your own hands in the original Russian style should be finished with high-quality boards with a minimum content of resinous substances. The best option for arranging the interior space is materials from aspen, linden and birch. You can also use cedar. Pine can only be used after special processing.

With the material opportunity, you can not be limited to the flora of the temperate zone. To create a unique interior in the bath, you can use tropical tree species. Mahogany looks enchanting in a bath. Recently, the abashi tree has gained great popularity among our compatriots, which is used by the indigenous population of Africa for the manufacture of kitchen utensils.

Making the inner lining of the bath, it is customary to place the boards vertically, with a careful fit to each other. The walls inside are not painted to avoid the release of harmful substances at high temperatures. In addition, painting will reduce the vapor permeability of the material. In the steam room itself, the walls up to a height of one meter can be covered with modern glazed tiles. This makes it easy to clean the most dirty areas.

The floor and ceiling of the premises must be upholstered with baseboards around the entire perimeter. The skirting board must be waterproof with a height of at least 10 centimeters. It is installed in such a way that the bottom row of sheathing covers it. This installation technology allows the flowing water from the walls not to fall behind the skirting board.

As for the flooring, it should also be wooden, but without insulation. This is due to the fact that water constantly gets on it, and the insulation system will not allow to effectively remove moisture. To facilitate the cleaning process in the baths, especially in the steam room, the floor is covered with ceramic tiles. In this case, it is worth maintaining slopes up to the drain hole. If a sewer system is used, then a siphon is installed in the floor. It will eliminate unpleasant odors from sewer pipes.

The humidity and temperature in the bath varies greatly, therefore it is necessary to carefully select the material for the doors. The most optimal option is glued wood, which practically does not change its size with changes in humidity. As for the windows, it is worth using modern heat-efficient double-glazed windows to minimize heat loss.

If someone tells you that he is absolutely indifferent to the bath, do not believe it. In order to convince such a person, it is enough to take him to a bathhouse built by his own hands. After steaming, he will definitely say that he always loved to steam. There are a lot of people in our country who are looking forward to the weekend in order to go to a bathhouse for relaxation with friends.

Now you know how to build a bathhouse from foundation to roof with your own hands. Of course, there are a little more wisdom and tricks than described in this article. Still, you got an idea of ​​the stages of building a bath with your own hands. Enjoy your steam and excellent health.