Black currant: planting, growing and care. Growing and proper care of currants How to care for a currant seedling

Great yield of black currants thanks to proper planting and care

Currant - planting and care in the country

Currants are planted in early spring or mid-autumn. Planting currants in the fall is preferable, since in the spring it is necessary to have time before sap flow begins and the buds bloom, while the soil may not have time to warm up enough and the plant will die.

A sunny place protected from the wind with well-drained non-acidic soil (pH value 6-6.5) is chosen for currants. Fertile light loamy soil is ideal. To reduce the acidity of the earth, add up to 1 kg of lime, chalk or dolomite flour per 1 sq. m.

Propagate currants using cuttings or dividing the bush, by separating large shoots with roots from the main trunk. Cultivation of black currants will be successful if you choose two-year seedlings up to 40 cm high, with 3-5 skeletal branches at least 20 cm long, they take root best. Consider how the planting of currants is carried out in stages.

Soil preparation

The selected area is leveled 14 days before planting the seedlings, the rhizomes of the weeds are removed and the soil is left to shrink. After 2 weeks, the site is divided into circles with a diameter of 50-60 cm, which are dug to a depth of 40 cm.The distance between them is maintained at 1.5-2 m, when planting in rows - up to 3 m.

Three-quarters of the pit is covered with a bucket of compost or other organic matter. Add 200 g of superphosphate, 60 g of potassium sulfate or 40 g of wood ash. A little black soil is poured on top of the fertilizers so that their concentration does not burn the roots, and then planting is carried out.

Planting black currant

The seedling is planted at an angle of 45 degrees, placing the root collar at a depth of 5 cm. This promotes the growth of basal buds and the further development of a powerful root system. If you plant a seedling directly, then the bush will be formed with a single stem.

Planting currants ends with watering 5 liters per hole and another 5 liters on a circular hole around it. After watering, it is necessary to loosen the soil: up to 8 cm in depth - directly under the plant, at a distance of 20 cm from it - up to 12 cm. Then the soil is sprinkled with fine peat or humus.

After completing the planting procedure, the seedling is cut at a height of 15 cm from the ground, leaving up to 5 buds on it. The cut branches can be stuck next to the main shoot, sprinkled with water with the addition of Kornevin and covered with a film or plastic container for rooting and engraftment. Pruning stimulates vigorous plant growth.

Planting currants in summer video

If the seedlings were not prepared in advance, it is possible to plant black currants in the summer. Most often this is necessary when propagating currants by layering in your garden. This planting is also called deposition or simply breeding. It is performed after the completion of fruiting: for early varieties - in July, and for late varieties - in mid and late August.

Black currant: growing and care

In order for berry bushes to develop well and bear fruit, it is necessary to provide proper care for black currants throughout the growing season.

Spring care for black currants

Before the appearance of buds, all old, dried or diseased branches are cut to a healthy stem, the wounds are covered with garden var. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied (up to 80 g of ammonium nitrate or 50 g of urea per plant) for two-year-old bushes. After feeding, the soil is dug up and watered.

At the time of the formation of the ovary until the beginning of June, watering is carried out at the rate of up to 30 liters of water per bush, every 5 days. This is done in the evening using warm water (10-15 degrees Celsius), at the root. For watering, it is recommended to make circular grooves 15 cm deep at a distance of 30 cm from the seedling. Water ingress on leaves can lead to the development of powdery mildew.

To improve the moisture resistance of the soil, mulching is desirable. You can use peat, straw or newspapers. It is important to do this during the green cone and bud formation phase to prevent moisture loss.

Summer currant care

In the first half of June, organic feeding should be carried out: up to 15 kg of humus per 1 bush, or liquid feeding (bird droppings diluted with water 1:10).

When there is no rain for a long time, timely watering is especially necessary. Usually a bucket of water a week is enough. Watering currants in summer becomes more frequent from late June to mid-July during the ripening of berries, and is done every 5 days.

Currant care in June also includes pinching the young stems of the tops by 2 buds to increase the number of side shoots. This procedure promotes the development of new shoots. The timing of the pinching is postponed to a later date in order to delay the fruiting of the bush.

During the ripening of the fruits, foliar dressing is applied: mixing 5 g of potassium permanganate, 40 g of ferrous sulfate and 3 g of boric acid. Dissolve them separately, and then mix together in a 10 L bucket of water. Spraying is carried out in the evening or on a cloudy, windless day.

Harvesting berries must be done by the piece, and not plucked in a bunch. This is less likely to damage the plant. Watering and fertilization is completely stopped two to three weeks before harvest.

Care for currant bushes in autumn

After completing the harvest, starting in mid-August and throughout September, watering is carried out once a week, with loosening the soil to a depth of 5 cm. In dry autumn, preparation for winter includes increased soil moisture - half a meter deep.

At the end of September, it is necessary to introduce organic matter (4-6 kg of poultry droppings), or feed them with minerals: 20 g of potassium sulfate and 50 g of superphosphate. In any case, when fertilizing, add 200 g of wood ash. After that, the soil is dug up and mulched to increase fruiting for the next year.

Before the onset of the first frost, it is necessary to prune underdeveloped and weak shoots, as well as those that grow in the middle of the bush and thicken it. Poorly developed young branches are also subject to removal, of which only 3-4 of the strongest are left. An adult bush usually consists of 15 shoots from different years of life.

Diseases and pests: prevention and treatment

To protect the plant from diseases, preventive measures are used. In the spring, before the buds awaken, the bushes are watered with hot water at a temperature of plus 80 degrees. Celsius, at the rate of 3 liters per 1 plant for treatment against pests and diseases. They also carry out timely sanitary pruning of the bushes in order to prevent thickening and regularly dig up the soil to destroy pests.

During flowering and the appearance of the first leaves, additional treatment with fungicides is necessary: Alirin-B, Gamair, Forecast, Topaz, Glycoladin - from rust and anthracnose.

You can read about how to get rid of a kidney mite on currants in our article.

Preparing currants for winter

Proper care of black currants includes preparing for winter. The soil under the bushes is weeded and the fallen leaves are removed.

After the onset of the first frost, the bush is pulled together in a spiral upward with a rope, clamping it at the top with a clothespin. The ground is covered with mulch. After a large amount of precipitation falls at the base of the bush, a snow pillow 10 cm high is made, and then the bush is completely covered with snow.

Outcome

Growing currants on the site will only bring pleasure, since the culture is not demanding and bears fruit perfectly. Carefully monitor the behavior of the plant so that you always know what it needs, do not forget about timely watering, fertilizing and preventive treatments. Then the black currant, which is taken care of according to all the rules, will thank you with a magnificent harvest and a large berry.

Currant is a berry shrub from the gooseberry family, of medium height (20-40 cm) with characteristic leaves. The currant belongs to a fast-growing shrub and begins to bear fruit one year after planting.

Its life span is 20 years for red currants, 15 years for black currants, however, the shrub is able to multiply rapidly. The main types of currants are black and red, differing from each other in the color of the berries and the characteristic smell inherent in black currants, due to the content of essential oils in it. However, there are other varieties: yellow currant, bred on the American continent, white currant and many crossed species.

Breeders have bred up to 700 species of various varieties of berries, which are distinguished by resistance to pests and diseases, resistance to powdery mildew, spotting, resistance to spring frosts and increased productivity, which makes it possible to breed it in various regions of the Russian Federation.

Currant, has a lot of useful qualities, which determines the use of the berry itself, its leaves, twigs for:

Improving the elasticity of the vascular system.
Reducing the concentration of sugar in the blood.
Treatment of dermatitis and eye diseases.
Therapy for atherosclerosis, lowering blood pressure; increasing the strength of the capillaries of the circulatory system.
Treating sore throats and coughs.
Therapy for colds and infectious diseases.
Treatment of inflammation in the urinary tract area and as a diuretic.

How to properly plant currants in the open field

In general, the shrub is quite unpretentious to growing conditions, however, in order to obtain a high yield with the best vitamin and nutritional characteristics, a number of rules must be observed.

The shrub is sensitive to the water-air growth regime, since the length of its roots, up to 50 cm, is located in the upper soil layer and cannot consume moisture from the deep soil layers. This must be taken into account when choosing a place for planting, since too wet soil is a dangerous factor, and too dry requires frequent watering.

1. Site selection and soil preparation

The best conditions for growing currants is considered to be a well-lit area of soil, representing a lowland, slope or hill with an average degree of moisture. The degree of illumination is determined by a measure of how long during the day the currants are exposed to direct sunlight.

The duration of the illumination of the shrub by the sun's rays should be at least half a day for black currants; for red - at least 2/3 of the day.

The measure of the moisture content of the site is assessed by the level of groundwater in a nearby well, which should not be higher than 0.5-1 m. The requirements for soil acidity are also clearly regulated; soils of neutral and slightly acidic reaction are chosen for it. It is best to place currants in a place of some elevation of the relief containing up to 0.5 m of a fertile layer with protection from both direct exposure to wind currents and from stagnant air.

2. Timing of boarding

The shrub can be planted in the spring from the onset of warmth to the period of bud opening with cuttings or grown cuttings and in autumn in September-October. The autumn planting method is considered the best, since when using it, the best conditions are created for plant survival and exit from the beginning of spring into the phase of rapid development.

3. Treatment and preparation of soil

It is better to plant shrubs with a distance of 1 m from neighboring bushes and at a distance of 1.5-2 m and 3-4 m from other shrubs and fruit trees. The required number of shrubs for planting is determined from the condition that, with normal care, currants give from 2 to 3 kg per bush.

4. Soil for currants and fertilizers

As a planting material, it is better to choose seedlings 15-20 cm long with a well-branched root system, no signs of pests and diseases. The dimensions of the pit for planting are 40 * 40 * 40 cm, it is better to dig up the pit either a few weeks before planting or in the fall of the previous year to create the necessary soil sediment.

It is necessary to prepare two layers of soil for planting a bush:

The first consists of earth dug out of a pit, mixed with peat, compost or fertilizers with the addition of small doses of mineral additives and has a high biological value; serves to nourish the roots, located below them in level.
The second also consists of a fertile layer of soil removed from the pit without fertilizers.

5. The process of planting in open ground

The shrub, holding with one hand, is placed over the first layer of soil, so that the roots feel free. Further, sprinkle with a second layer of soil, given that the bush should protrude above the surface. The planted bush is watered abundantly with water, even if planting is done on a rainy day.

Around the planted bush, a near-stem circle is formed, with a diameter of 40-50 cm, a layer of mulch, peat or sawdust is applied, without affecting the planting itself.

After planting, the currant bush is pruned to a level of 7 cm above the ground. This measure is necessary to bring the aerial part of the plant into conformity with the root system.

Currant care

1. Watering

The shrub is characterized by a fairly high moisture consumption, for which it competes, spending energy necessary to form the crop. For adult bushes, the maximum moisture consumption occurs during the growth of shoots, during the formation of berries (June) and after harvesting to store moisture for the formation of the next harvest (September).

It is important to provide a sufficient amount of moisture during this period, since otherwise the berries will be small, and unripe berries will shatter.

To reduce the effect of drought periods on currants, it is necessary to maintain it by watering with 1.5-2 buckets of water per bush. It is also necessary to carry out measures to retain moisture in the soil, for which a layer of mulch, up to 10 cm thick, consisting of fallen leaves, weeded out weeds, and finely chopped thin twigs, is introduced around the circumference under the shrub.

2. Top dressing

In the case of correct planting of the shrub, fertilizing in the form of fertilizers is not required for several years. Further nutrition is carried out by introducing 4-5 kg of fertilizers or peat and 40 g of mineral fertilizers of a complex composition, superphosphate (100-150 g) and calcium chloride (30-40 g) under a bush in early spring or autumn before loosening.

In the absence of plant nutrition, the berries become small over time and contain fewer nutrients.

3. Pruning currants

The best time for pruning a shrub is considered to be the period of late autumn, after leaf fall, when sick and damaged shoots are clearly visible. Carrying out pruning for currant bushes begins with the removal of old and damaged shoots at ground level with a covering with a special decoction.

The next step in pruning is to remove young, poorly developed or disease-damaged branches. Further, the shrub is diluted by removing from 15 to 30% of shoots of various ages to direct moisture and nutrients not to the growth of young branches, but to the formation of a crop on mature cuttings. Ideally, after pruning, the bush should represent 12-15 healthy shoots of various ages.

When pruning, it must be borne in mind that the excessive spreading of the bush is inconvenient and causes contamination of the berries in bad weather. To give the plantation a well-groomed and cultured look, props are made, trellises and stretched twine are used. However, the "matched" bush should not be overly tightened to exclude damage to the branches and disruption of sap flow.

4. Transplant

The transplant is carried out in cases of the need to rejuvenate the currant, the lack of necessary nutrients at the site of the previous growth for the growth and development of the plantation, the need to plant rooted young shoots, cuttings or cuttings. The rules for making a transplant in terms of time, choice of soil, watering and feeding do not differ from performing a normal planting.

5. Diseases and pests

American powdery mildew, which poses a danger to young leaves and shoots of black currant, manifests itself in the appearance of white blooms on their surface, the leaves weaken, darken and deform. Treatment is carried out by removing and burning the affected leaves and shoots and applying autumn Topaz.
Anthracosis, septoriasis, represent two types of a disease caused by the action of a fungus, as a result of which spots of dark and brown colors are formed on the surface of the leaves, which later turn into a brown shade. The affected shrub is more susceptible to frost, is characterized by a decrease in yield and early leaf fall. Treatment is carried out by removing the leaves with embedding in the soil, the plant before bud break, before and after flowering, it is recommended to treat with preparations based on copper.
Terry, manifests itself in the deformation of young leaves, their acquisition of an elongated shape with a further deterioration in the appearance of flowers, the appearance of terry and the death of a shrub. The affected shrub must be dug up and burned.
A kidney mite manifests itself in a strong swelling of the buds, which, together with the adjacent branches, are removed and burned before the shrub leaves the budding stage. The remaining bush before and immediately after flowering is sprayed with Aktellik, if there is no effect, the bush must be dug up and burned.
Glass currant damages currant branches, which outwardly manifests itself in their lethargy, drying out and their increased fragility. It is possible to diagnose damage to the currant by the glass by examining the cross-section of the branch. If there is damage on it, there are quite wide passages-voids of a dark color. After the detection of the disease, all affected shoots are removed and burned, after flowering, the shrub is processed by Aktellik.
Gooseberry shoot aphid is manifested in the fact that aphid larvae born during the period of bud swelling attack young shoots and leaves, sucking juices out of them. Aphid damage leads to a change in the shape of the leaves, increasing the risk of damage during wintering by cold. For the treatment of the disease, the shrub is treated with Aktellik during bud break.
The red-headed aphid is expressed in the appearance of leaf swelling on the affected areas. The fight against aphids consists in processing the currants with Aktellik before the budding period, after flowering and in August-September.

Seasonal care and landing

Caring for shrubs includes periodically loosening the root area throughout the season. Insecticides, manual weeding and mulching are used to control weeds. Weed control is carried out twice a year in the fall, after harvest, or in the spring along with fertilization. Loosening is carried out to a depth of 8-10 cm using a fork, shovel or hoe.

During the growing season, it is necessary to closely monitor budding, where a sign of their defeat by a mite will be their swelling, but the absence of disclosure. If more than 3 buds are damaged by a pest, the entire branch is removed. During the season, it is necessary to spray the shrub 2-3 times with a 1-2% solution of Bordeaux liquid or copper sulfate.

Reproduction

Using cuttings, which are prepared as follows. A bush shoot with a thickness of more than 7 mm and a length of 20 cm, containing at least 4-6 buds on its body, is cut off from both sides. The lower cut is made at an angle of 45 °, the upper one should have a right angle, then the cutting is sent to a container of water overnight.

Then the cuttings are planted in the soil with a distance of 10-15 cm between them, so that at least 3-4 buds remain above the ground. The soil around the planted cutting is watered, compacted and mulched with peat or compost to a depth of 4-5 cm. This method of shrub propagation is well suited for the formation of hedges.

With the help of horizontal layering performed in the spring, during the ripeness of the soil. The soil near the plantation should be loose and provided with fertilizers. Young, healthy branches of currants are buried in pre-prepared grooves 5-7 cm deep.

The young vertical shoots that have appeared after a while, 6-8 cm high from the ground level, are loosened and spud with a mixture of earth with humus, with a frequency of 2-3 weeks. In the fall, the rooted cuttings are transplanted, carefully separated from the planting and transplanted.

Answers to frequently asked questions

When currants are placed in place with a predecessor from vegetable, flower plants, the planting will be provided with nutrients for a sufficiently long time and will bear fruit better, since it will be located on non-depleted soils.
It is not recommended to plant a shrub on the site of a previous cultivation of gooseberries or currants, since the soils can get tired of monoculture for several years and produce an accumulation of toxins.
For more active pollination of currants with insects, it is recommended to spray during the flowering period with a solution of 1 liter of water from 1 tbsp. l honey.
It is recommended to plant currants in groups of bushes next to each other, rather than individual bushes, since in the first case, better pollination of the bushes is ensured, which increases their fertility.

Of all the varieties of currants, it is black that is considered the most useful and fragrant. But in order for the plant to flourish and enjoy a good harvest, it is important to follow the simple rules of care and know the little tricks when planting it. Below we will talk in detail about where, how and when it is better to plant blackcurrant seedlings, as well as about the features of pruning and fertilizing this berry bush.

What to consider when landing?

Planting black currants is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. The main thing is to choose the right time and place for disembarkation, as well as prepare the ground. First, we will discuss the features of the soil that is optimal for black currant.

Priming

Loamy soils are ideal for currants. It grows poorly on sour and swampy ones, so additional preparatory work will be required there. To lower the acidity, you must first add slaked lime or wood ash to the ground when digging in spring or autumn.

Lighting

For the bush to bear fruit well, and the berries are ripe and sweet, the plant needs a lot of sun. Therefore, when choosing a place for planting, you should give preference to well-lit areas of the garden.

Distance

Currants tend to grow into large and wide bushes, and this is good, because the larger the bush, the more berries it contains. Large shrubs usually have a well-branched root system, which means they need a sufficient distance between the plants. It is recommended to plant them in rows, with a distance between them not less than 1, 8 meters, and between bushes in a row - not less than 70 centimeters. Then the plants will have enough space and nutrients.

Pre-fertilization

Fertilizer can be applied both in the fall, when preparing the site, and immediately before planting currants. In the second case, it is better to do this in one - one and a half weeks, so that the minerals have time to be absorbed into the soil and do not burn the roots of the plant. In the most urgent case, fertilizer can be applied a couple of days before planting and mixed well with the substrate. It is risky to place fertilizer directly into the holes, as it can seriously damage the roots.

Fertilizers can be both organic (humus, manure, chicken droppings) and mineral - complex or containing one of the essential minerals such as phosphorus, potassium or nitrogen.

Drop off time

The most favorable time for disembarkation is late autumn, somewhere two to three weeks before the onset of cold weather. Usually, planting of black currants in the fall is carried out in late October - early November.

When planting in the spring, it is important not to miss the right moment - the currants are one of the first to bloom, so it must be planted as early as possible.

Planting: a step-by-step guide

The first thing we do is form a hole in the chosen place in the dug and weed-free soil. To do this, you need to dig a hole, up to half a meter deep and corresponding to the size of the root system in width. If it is decided to apply fertilizer to the hole itself, then we do this and wait another week. When planting in the spring, you need to start preparing the pit in the fall.

Now you can start planting. It is important that the roots of the plant are kept moist until and during planting. It is best to put the roots in water 2-3 hours before planting so that they are saturated with water.

It doesn't matter if you are planting a thin twig or a small bush, you need to do it at an angle. Place the plant in the hole at about 60 degrees so that the bottom three buds end up in the ground. Such a planting will contribute to the fact that the bush becomes wide and gives more shoots.

Having sprinkled the roots with earth, you need to slightly compact (but not tamp!) The top layer of soil and water the bush abundantly. The aerial part of the shoot must be cut off, leaving only the three lower buds. Such pruning will prevent premature aging of the bush.

Above, we discussed how black currant seedlings are planted. . But there is another way of propagation of this plant - by cuttings.

To do this, we need cuttings with three to four buds, 18-20 cm long. They need to be cut in spring or autumn.

Then they are planted in prepared and weed-free soil, with a distance between them of 12-15 centimeters. Only one kidney is left above the ground. Planting black currants with cuttings is a common method of plant propagation.

Currant care

It is not enough to plant a black currant correctly, because without proper care, even the strongest plant can die. This is why not only proper fit is important, but also grooming.

Watering

Currants are very fond of moisture, so timely watering is the basis for the prosperity of the bush in your area. Watering is especially important during the ripening of the berries - then they will be large and juicy. Otherwise, even with abundant flowering, you can get shriveled, small and sour berries.
True, it is also important to observe the measure here - too abundant watering on loamy soils can lead to decay of the roots.

Loosening and mulching

Loosening is equally important. By keeping the topsoil loose, you help the plant's roots get enough oxygen. It is also good to carry out weed control.

Mulching (covering) the topsoil will retain as much moisture as possible and prevent weed growth. As mulch, you can use hay, newspapers, chopped tops of weeds, tomatoes, fallen leaves, etc. Do not use foliage from walnuts and coniferous sawdust, as they can impair the properties of the soil. Using newspapers as mulch, you need to remember that during flowering they need to be removed, because during this period, insects useful for the plant come to the surface.

Fertilizer

It is necessary to feed black currants not only in spring, but also at important stages of the plant's seasonal life: flowering and berry formation. You can use chicken manure dissolved in water, ash or complex fertilizer in granules as a supplementary feed. When using the latter, it is better to cover the granules with a layer of soil or mulch.

Pruning

It is best to prune the bushes in late autumn or early spring. This achieves three important goals - thinning the bush, rejuvenating and removing diseased shoots.

Thinning will allow you to keep the bush not thickened, will provide good access to sunlight to all shoots, which means better ripening of the berries. For this, about 20 percent of the shoots are removed from the middle of the bush. The need for thinning can be easily identified visually.

The rejuvenation of the bush is carried out by removing old branches. Thus, space is freed up for young shoots and the plant bears fruit longer and more efficiently.

By removing diseased shoots, you prevent infection of nearby healthy shoots, and thus heal the bush. Most often, diseased shoots are also easy to identify by their appearance. You can spot them even during flowering and fruiting. If there were almost no flowers and berries on the shoot, then most likely it is sick and you can safely remove it.

Common diseases of black currant:

Anthracnose. With a disease, small brown spots appear on the leaves, which grow, then the leaves dry out. The disease can also appear on the stalks, young shoots, petioles.
White spot. There are small brown spots on the leaves. Then they turn white, but with a brown border. Black dots appear on the spots. When anthracnose or white leaf spot appears on black currants in April, the bushes are treated with Bordeaux liquid (1% solution) or 3% nitrafen solution. The treatment is repeated after 10 days. Then, in the middle of summer, the bushes are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid (1% solution). They also collect all diseased fallen leaves and burn them, dig up the ground near the trunk circle to a depth of 10 cm, do it in spring or autumn.
Goblet rust. In case of illness, rusty growths are visible on the leaves. The disease can be transmitted from sedge. Therefore, you need to eliminate all sedge. The leaves are collected and burned. Before the buds bloom, the currants are treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid.
Columnar rust. These are small rusty spots on the leaves. In the spring, even before the leaves bloom, the bushes are sprayed with 1% Bordeaux liquid. Then the same composition is sprayed after picking the berries. It is recommended to spray the leaves with phytosporin.
Striped mosaic. With a disease, a grayish-yellow pattern is visible near the veins of the leaves. The disease is not cured, the infected bush is destroyed.
Powdery mildew. There is a white bloom on berries and shoots. Then the color changes to brown, the berries crack. To treat the disease, cut out all diseased branches, spray the currants with a solution of 100 g of copper sulfate on a bucket of water. After 10 days, spraying is repeated. Spraying should be stopped 2 weeks before harvest.
Terry. With doubleness, the outline of the leaves changes, instead of 5 they may have 3 blades. The leaf darkens and becomes denser, the bush blooms later, the inflorescences are lilac in color. To eliminate terry, a diseased bush is destroyed.

Not only people love to feast on currants, but also various pests. Therefore, it is necessary to know the "enemy in the face" and be able to deal with it:

Currant aphid. To eliminate aphids, spray the branches with a solution of soap or rinse them. You can replace the soap with ash, use 300 g per bucket of water. Make a solution of 3 tbsp. tablespoons of carbamide in a bucket of water, add potassium permanganate so that the solution is bright pink and process the bushes. If there are a lot of aphids, then spray with Aktellik, Karbofos, Vofatox.
Firefly, glass and leaf gall midge. When the fire is damaged, the berries are entangled in cobwebs, they become reddish and dry out. If the ground is mulched with a layer of 8 cm, then the moth larvae will not be able to get out and will die. To eliminate moth caterpillars, spray currant with "Aktellik", "Metaphos". Glassy larvae gnaw the core of the stems, and in the winter they make their way to the roots. A leafy gall midge is found if wrinkled leaves with small bulges are visible at the top of the branches. In early spring and autumn, to eliminate leaf gall midge and glassworm, cut out old and diseased branches at the very surface of the soil and burn them. Before budding, spray the currants with "Aktara" or "Iskra", add liquid soap there.
Spider mite. At the beginning of May, red-brown or whitish leaves are visible, which have a cobweb below. To eliminate the pest, burn the leaves affected by the mite, and spray the bushes with insecticides.
Kidney currant mite. These are tiny insects, they crawl inside the kidneys and eat them. To combat the pest, in early spring, cut and burn branches that show swollen buds. After flowering, treat the currants with a 1% aqueous suspension of colloidal sulfur.
Shield. They can be found by the formations on the leaves - the shields that cover the pests. For elimination in early spring and late autumn, rinse the branches with a stiff brush dipped in a soap solution. Sprinkle currants with "Aktellik", "Fitoverm".
Blackcurrant berry sawfly. Its larvae make their way into the fruit. The damaged berries are larger and have a ribbed shape. Collect and burn the affected berries, mulch the ground, dig up the soil in the fall.

More information can be found in the video:

Black currant (Latin Ribes nigrum)- a species of the monotypic genus Currant of the Gooseberry family, which is a deciduous berry shrub. In the wild, black currant today grows throughout Europe, in the Urals, in Siberia to the Yenisei and Baikal, in Kazakhstan, Mongolia and China. It is also widespread in North America. In culture, it is grown throughout the world in amateur gardening and on an industrial scale. In Kievan Rus, it appeared in the 10th century - they began to grow it in the monastery gardens, and only then did the black currant begin to conquer Europe.

Landing: in early autumn or early spring.
Lighting: bright sunlight.
The soil: non-acidic, well-drained and fertilized.
Watering: on average, once every five days with a consumption of 20-30 liters of water for each 1 m² of the plot: the soil should be soaked to a depth of 30-35 cm.
Cropping: in spring - sanitary cleaning, in the period of leaf fall - the main pruning.
Top dressing: if fertilizers were applied to the soil before planting the currants, fertilizing begins in the third year: nitrogen is applied in early spring, three foliar dressings are carried out in June-July, in the fall the soil is dug up with compost, manure or chicken droppings, as well as with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
Reproduction: layering, lignified and green cuttings, rooting of two-year-old shoots.
Pests: shoot, gall and red-gall aphids, moths, pale-footed, fruit and yellow sawflies, biennial leafworms, spider and kidney mites, moths, glass moths, gall midges.
Diseases: white spot (septoria), gray rot, goblet and columnar rust, anthracnose, terry, shoot and branch necrosis, powdery mildew, striped mosaic, necrotic necrosis.

Read more about growing black currant below.

Black currant - description

The fibrous root system of black currant is located at a depth of 20-30 cm. The height of the black currant bush reaches 1 m. Young shoots of currants are pale and pubescent, adults are brown. Black currant leaves are 3 to 12 cm long and wide with three to five wide-triangular lobes, the middle of which is often elongated, have serrated edges and golden glands along the veins, which give off a well-known aroma. The upper side of the leaf plate is dark green, dull, the lower side is pubescent along the veins. Drooping racemose inflorescences, consisting of 5-10 pinkish-gray or lavender bell-shaped flowers, often densely pubescent on the outside, bloom in May or June. Blackcurrant fruits are glossy blue-black fragrant berries up to 1 cm in diameter.

Black currant is one of the most popular horticultural crops in the middle lane, which is grown by hobbyists as often as raspberries, gooseberries and strawberries, and much more often than blackberries, strawberries and blueberries. This culture has earned such popularity not only due to its taste and bright aroma, but also due to the large amount of vitamins, acids, micro- and macroelements necessary for a person, which contain black currant berries.

We will tell you about how planting and caring for black currant is carried out, in what ways it reproduces, how to cut black currant, how to feed it, we will give a description of the varieties of black currant, the most productive and easy to care for, we will describe what pests and diseases of black currant can complicate its cultivation - you will find answers to all your questions in our article.

Planting black currant

When to plant black currants

Currants bear fruit for 12-15 years, and the richest yields are given in the sixth-seventh year of growth. Almost all blackcurrant varieties are self-fertile - they do not need pollinators, but the largest and sweetest blackcurrant is obtained when several varieties of this crop are pollinated in one area.

You can plant black currants throughout the growing season, but it is best to do this in late September or early October - before winter, black currant seedlings will root well, and in early spring they will start growing together. If you decide to plant currants in the spring, then try to do it before sap flow and bud swelling.

Soil for currants must be fertile, slightly acidic or neutral - pH 5.0-5.5. Most of all, the culture likes loams. Black currants are planted from the south or southwest side, in a well-lit area, protected from the wind. Groundwater should be no higher than 1.5 m.

Planting black currants in spring

A site for black currant should be prepared in the fall: the soil is dug to the depth of a shovel bayonet, adding 7-10 kg of humus, 1 liter of wood ash and 80-100 g of superphosphate to each m².

The planting density of black currant bushes depends on the type of culture. For example, low-spreading or straight-growing varieties are planted at a distance of 100-130 cm from each other, keeping row spacings up to one and a half meters wide. The planting hole is dug about 50x50x50 cm in size, half a bucket of water is poured into it, the seedling is placed in it at an angle of 45 º 4-6 cm deeper than it grew in the mother liquor - this method of planting stimulates the intensive formation of roots and shoots.

The roots of the seedling are carefully straightened, covered with soil, compacted, after which another half a bucket of water is poured under the seedling. In order to avoid rapid evaporation of moisture from the soil, the site is mulched with peat, humus, dry soil or sawdust.

Planting black currants in autumn

Pits for autumn planting of blackcurrant seedlings are prepared in two to three weeks. The top layer of soil is poured into them, mixed with two tablespoons of double superphosphate, a large handful of ash and 5 kg of rotted compost, filling the pit by two-thirds. Before planting, the soil in the pit should settle and compact. The planting procedure is carried out according to the same rules as in the spring. After planting, all the shoots are cut off from the seedlings, leaving no more than 2-3 buds on each.

Black currant care

Spring currant care

Black currants wake up very early in spring, so you need to have time to cut off broken or diseased branches before the buds swell, and also remove buds damaged by a tick. If there are too many buds in which the mites have settled, cut the entire bush to the base. In the spring, in addition to sanitary, formative pruning of the bushes is carried out. If you huddled bushes for the winter, shake off the soil from them.

The soil around the bush is dug up and mulched with a layer of humus or manure 5-10 cm thick, trying to spread it at a distance of 20 cm from the branches of the bush. As soon as weeds begin to germinate, remove them immediately.

Since black currants are moisture-loving, do not forget to water them, especially if the winter was without snow, and the spring was without rain. After watering, it is advisable to weed the site, as well as feeding the black currant with nitrogen fertilizers, followed by loosening the soil with the embedding of granules to a depth of 6-8 cm. Loosening is carried out on average 2-3 times a week, but if you mulched the site, it will be possible to do this through mulch and much less often.

Since black currant enters the stage of active growth very early, its expanding buds can damage recurrent frosts, so be prepared to protect the bushes from a sudden cold snap with smoke or plastic wrap.

In May, when the flowering of currants begins, inspect the bushes and cut out branches affected by terry (reversion) - those on which flowers from bell-shaped ones have changed into two-petalled ones. If the currants need supports, install them.

Summer black currant care

In June, black currant bushes are watered, weeded and loosened the area around them, and also feed the currants at the root with organic fertilizers. The culture also reacts well to foliar dressing - spraying on the leaves with solutions of micronutrients.

If a moth butterfly appears, it is necessary to destroy its nests, and if some berries turn brown and deform prematurely, this is a sure sign of sawfly activity, so be prepared to process black currant and from it.

In July and August, red and black currants ripen. The fruits of the black currant are harvested selectively, with separate berries, and not like red currants - with whole brushes. The best utensils for picking berries are trays, boxes or boxes in which the fruits will not wrinkle.

After harvesting, currants require abundant watering, and as soon as the soil dries out, it will be necessary to loosen the soil on the site.

Caring for black currants in the fall

In late September or early October, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied under the currant bushes, after which the site is watered, and then dug into the soil to embed fertilizers.

An important point of caring for black currants in the fall is sanitary pruning of bushes. As a result of the removal of thickening branches, you may get planting material, which is high time to root in the fall. Layers dug in in the spring for rooting are separated from the mother bushes and planted in a permanent place.

If the autumn will be without rain, carry out a water-charging irrigation. That's all the autumn work with black currant.

Black currant processing

In early spring, the treatment of black currant bushes begins with scalding the bushes from a garden watering can with water heated to 80 ºC. You can replace the hot shower by dusting the bushes and surrounding land with wood ash.

To combat some insects, as well as to feed the currants with nitrogen, the bushes are treated with a 7% urea solution, but this must be done before the buds on the branches begin to bloom.

As soon as the first leaf begins to appear from the buds, the currants are treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or copper sulfate from diseases such as anthracnose, rust and septoria.

If last season you noticed moths on the site of butterflies, process the black currant before flowering with Karbofos, Agravertin, Fitoverm, Iskra-bio in accordance with the instructions, and in addition to this measure, cover the site with foil so that the butterflies cannot get out of the ground. As soon as the currants bloom, the film will need to be removed so that beneficial insects can get out to the surface.

At the same time (before flowering), the currant should be sprayed with Karbocin, Iskra or Inta-CM from gall midges, aphids, sawflies and leaf rollers, but since one treatment will not be enough, you will have to spray the currants with these preparations twice more - immediately after flowering and after harvesting ...

After flowering, in the event that you find anthracnose, septoria or powdery mildew on black currants, it is necessary to treat the bushes with Strobi, Vectra or Cumulus preparations, and Topaz, Tiovit Jet or colloidal sulfur will cope with American powdery mildew (provided that the air temperature in the garden will be at least 18 ºC). After harvesting, you need to re-process the currants from American powdery mildew.

After leaf fall and autumn pruning of bushes, it is necessary to collect and destroy plant residues, after which currants should be prevented from diseases with one percent solutions of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate.

Watering black currant

Growing black currants requires maintaining a loose soil in the currant, which can be achieved by frequent and abundant watering, provided that it is not excessive. Lack of moisture slows down the growth of branches and shoots, and during the formation and pouring of currant berries, poor or irregular moistening of the soil can cause them to grind and shatter.

It is especially important to water the black currant in early June, in the stage of intensive growth of bushes and the formation of ovaries, it is also necessary in late June and early July, during the period of fruit filling. At this time, the soil must be moistened to the depth of the entire root layer - about 35-45 cm. The approximate water consumption is 20-30 liters per m² of the plot. Water should be poured into specially made grooves along the row spacing or into grooves 10-15 cm deep, dug around each bush at a distance of 30-40 cm from its base.

After watering, the soil is loosened as soon as it dries slightly. If the plot is mulched, you will have to water, and loosen, and weed the plot much less often.

Top dressing of black currant

In the year of planting, if you applied fertilizer to the pit in accordance with our recommendation, black currants will not need additional fertilizing. From the second year of life in the spring, it will be enough to distribute 40-50 g of urea under each bush or treat the bushes with a 7% solution before the start of sap flow. Bushes older than 4 years old are fed with urea in smaller quantities, consuming only 25-40 g of nitrogen fertilizer per bush, and applied in two doses.

In the fall, black currants are fed with organic matter once every two years - compost, manure or bird droppings at the rate of 10-15 kg per bush. And from mineral fertilizers, 10-20 g of potassium sulfate and 50 g of superphosphate are applied for each plant. If you mulched the site with a thick layer of organic fertilizer in the spring, then in the fall you can not add organic matter to the soil, and if you brought humus into the soil in the fall, then next spring you can skip feeding the currants with nitrogen.

Black currant pruning

When to cut black currants

We already wrote that it is best to carry out sanitary and formative pruning of black currants in the spring, at the end of March. But the problem is that the culture begins to grow very early, and pruning must be done before the buds swell. If you managed to meet the deadline in the spring, then in the fall, before the onset of the dormant period, carry out only sanitary pruning.

Pruning black currant in spring

As we already wrote, on newly planted seedlings, all branches are shortened, leaving no more than 2-3 buds on each.

On the bushes of the second year of life, during spring pruning, from 3 to 5 of the most developed zero shoots are left - they will become the first skeletal branches of a currant bush. The rest of the shoots are removed. In the middle of summer, skeletal shoots are shortened by pinching into two buds - this manipulation contributes to the intensive formation of fruit branches and the growth of new zero shoots. Thus, the bush is formed correctly and the crop grows.

In the third and fourth years of life, from the growing zero shoots, from 3 to 6 of the most promising are left, and the rest are cut out. The tops of last year's shoots are shortened. On each branch of the skeletal branches, 2-4 buds are left. By the end of the fourth year, the black currant bush can be considered formed.

In the fifth and sixth years old branches appear on the black currant, and the bush needs rejuvenating pruning, in which five to six-year-old branches are cut off at the very surface. Otherwise, when pruning, they adhere to the same scheme:

the branches of the second, third and fourth years are shortened along all the branches, leaving no more than 4 buds at each end;
the top of last year's shoots is shortened;
from zero shoots of the current year, from 3 to 5 of the strongest and most developed are left, the rest are cut out.

Pruning black currants in the fall

If you managed to carry out a full-fledged pruning in the spring, in the fall you will only have to cut out dry, broken, diseased and abnormally growing branches and shoots, that is, to carry out thinning and sanitary pruning. If you didn't manage to put the bush in order in the spring, do it in the fall, after all the leaves have fallen from the currant.

Dry branches can be removed from the bush at any time of the year. Pinching the tops is best in mid-July.

Reproduction of black currant

How to propagate black currants

Blackcurrant propagates vegetatively - by layering, green and lignified cuttings, as well as by dividing the bush. Seed propagation of black currant is also possible, but the offspring may not completely inherit the characteristics of the variety, and besides, vegetative methods give faster and more reliable results.

Reproduction of black currant by cuttings

This is the most common way. Cuttings of currants are harvested from annual basal shoots or shoots of the first branching order. The thickness of the cuttings should be at least 7mm, and the length - 15-20 cm. With a sterile pruner or knife, the cuttings are cut 1-1.5 higher than the bud. It is better to do this in late September or early November, when the bush has already passed into a dormant period. In the same autumn, blackcurrant cuttings are planted in the ground, but if the planting is postponed until spring, the ends of the cuttings are dipped in liquid paraffin or garden var, after which the planting material is tied, wrapped in wet paper, then in polyethylene and buried in the snow or put in the refrigerator until spring. Before planting, the lower end with paraffin is carefully cut obliquely.

In spring, cuttings are planted as early as possible, as soon as the ground warms up to 8-9 ºC. They are placed in the ground at an angle of 45 º, deepening so that only 1-2 buds remain above the surface. After planting, the cuttings are watered, and the site is mulched with humus, peat or sawdust. Arcs up to half a meter high are installed above the bed and polyethylene is thrown over them, which is removed as soon as the first leaves appear. The cuttings that have taken root and released the first leaves begin to be watered regularly, in no case allowing even a short-term drying out of the soil.

In the summer, a bed with cuttings is weeded, fertilized with a solution of mullein with ash and superphosphate, and in the fall, provided that the seedlings grow up to 30-50 cm in height, and they develop 1-2 shoots, they are transplanted to a permanent place.

Black currants can also be propagated by green cuttings, but this is a more complex method, carried out only if there is a greenhouse or greenhouse with a fogging function.

Reproduction of black currant by layering

This is the simplest and most reliable of vegetative propagation methods, since it allows you to get seedlings with a well-developed root system in one year. In early spring, select a healthy two-year-old branch growing obliquely at the periphery of the bush, bend it to the ground, and place its middle part in a pre-dug groove 10-12 cm deep so that the top 20-30 cm long remains on the surface.

Secure the cuttings in the groove with wire, cover the furrow with soil and water regularly during the growing season. By the fall, the cuttings will develop a powerful root system, give 2-3 thick branches, and it can be cut off from the mother bush and transplanted to a permanent place.

Reproduction of black currant by dividing the bush

It is necessary to divide the currant bush in spring or autumn when transplanting. The bush is dug out, carefully releasing the roots from the ground, and divided with an ax or a saw into several parts, after sterilizing the tool. Each section should have well-developed shoots and roots. Cut out old, diseased branches and roots, and shorten the young branches to 20-30 cm, then process the cuts with charcoal and plant parts of the bush in the prepared pits in the way that we described to you earlier.

After planting, seedlings require abundant watering. Delenka will yield a harvest only after a year, since the root system injured by division takes time to recover from the shock.

Diseases of black currant

From diseases, currants can be affected by fungal diseases anthracnose, white spot, goblet or columnar rust, European powdery mildew, gray rot, drying out of shoots and necrotic drying of shoots.

But viral diseases for which there is no cure are much more dangerous for black currant. These include black mosaic and terry, or reversion.

Black currant pests

Harmful insects that can affect black currants include currant glass, blackcurrant fruit, pale-footed and yellow gooseberry sawflies, biennial leafworm, gooseberry moth, gooseberry shoot and leaf gall aphid, gooseberry moth and mite, spiderweed.

As you probably already noticed, black currants and gooseberries have the same insect pests, and they have common diseases. That is why we have devoted a separate article entitled "Diseases and pests of gooseberries" to the description of these enemies, as well as ways to get rid of them.

Black currant varieties

Today, more than two hundred varieties of black currant have been bred in the culture, and it is very difficult to find among them two or three exactly those that you need. We will try to divide the varieties into groups, in accordance with the requests of our readers, so that it is easier for you to make your choice.

Large varieties of black currant

Large-fruited varieties of black currants are those whose berries exceed 1.5 g in weight. The most famous varieties of large-fruited currants are:

Vigorous- black currant of this variety has fruits, the weight of which reaches 8 g. The skin of the fruit is dense, the pulp is fleshy, sweet, juicy. The ripening period is medium late - in the third decade of July. The disadvantage of the variety is that it reproduces poorly, is unstable to powdery mildew, and needs to be rejuvenated often;
Dobrynya- a large black currant, the weight of the berries of which reaches 7 g. The average ripening period is the second half of July. Dobrynya is distinguished by winter hardiness, early maturity and resistance to powdery mildew;
Selechenskaya-2- a fruitful, winter-hardy and resistant to powdery mildew early ripening variety with berries weighing up to 6 g of sweet-sour taste.

Sweet varieties of black currant

The sweetest varieties of black currant are:

Nina- Stably productive, winter-hardy, self-fertile and sweet black currant of early ripening, resistant to powdery mildew, with large berries up to 13 mm in diameter. Unfortunately, the variety is not resistant to terry and kidney mites;
Bagheera- resistant to environmental changes, fast-growing and winter-hardy variety with large sweet berries almost completely free of acid, characterized by good gelling. The disadvantage of the variety is its instability to pests and diseases - anthracnose, powdery mildew and kidney mites;
Green haze- a fast-growing, winter-hardy and high-yielding medium-ripening variety with aromatic sweet berries. The variety is affected by kidney mites.

Sweet varieties are also Izyumnaya, Otlichnitsa, Perun and Dobrynya.

Early varieties of black currant

Early ripening blackcurrant varieties ripen in early July, and since harvesting from these bushes ends before the onset of heat, they are not afraid of most of the diseases and pests from which later varieties suffer. Early currants are represented by the following varieties:

Dove seedling- a very early variety with small berries weighing from 1 g to 1.5 g, which crack when overripe;
The little Prince- self-fertile and early-growing fruitful variety, giving up to 6 kg of juicy, almost black berries of sweet and sour taste from a bush;
Curiosity- winter-hardy, self-fertile fruitful variety, poorly tolerant of drought, but resistant to powdery mildew. The berries are oval, medium in size, with a dense skin, sweet and sour.

Medium black currant varieties

Mid-ripening black currant yields a harvest from mid-July. Among the most famous varieties of medium ripening are the following:

Titania- a variety resistant to powdery mildew with berries of different sizes, sweet and sour taste, strong skin and greenish pulp. The berries do not ripen at the same time, so the harvest may take a long time;
Black Pearl- consistently productive, self-fertile and very frost-resistant universal variety with one-dimensional berries weighing up to 1.5 g. The variety is not resistant to powdery mildew;
Bolero- self-fertile, early-growing, high-yielding and frost-resistant variety, resistant to anthracnose and powdery mildew, with large, aromatic oval or round berries weighing up to 2.5 g of sweet and sour taste.

Late varieties of black currant

Late blackcurrant varieties include those that ripen in August. It is the berries of late-ripening varieties that are best stored frozen and processed. The most famous varieties:

Vologda- a high-yielding, large-fruited, disease-resistant variety with high self-fertility and winter hardiness, but damaged during spring frosts. Berries are sweet and sour, large, with a dry separation, weighing up to 2.2 g;
Daughter- a high-yielding self-fertile and drought-resistant variety for universal use, resistant to kidney mites. Berries with a dry separation, large, sweet and sour taste, weighing up to 2.5 g;
Lazy person- self-fertile, winter-hardy, resistant to terry and anthracnose variety with rounded berries of large size and sweet taste. The disadvantages of the variety can be considered a prolonged ripening of fruits and an unstable yield.

The varieties Venus, Natasha, Rusalka, Katyusha, Kipiana and others are also popular.

The highest marks for taste - above 4.5 points - are given to varieties of black currant, which are considered dessert. The best black currant - varieties Selechenskaya, Selechenskaya-2, Venus, Nadia, Centaur, Perun, Pygmy, Orlov waltz, Slastena, Tisel, Nestor Kozin, Black boomer, Pearl, Legend, Izumnaya, Lazy, Ben-lomond.

Black currant varieties for the Moscow region

When asked by our readers whether it is possible to grow black currants in areas with cold winters, we can answer with a clear conscience: yes! Among the varieties of black currant, there are many winter-hardy ones that perfectly tolerate winter temperatures. Black currant for the Moscow region is represented by the following varieties:

Pauline- mid-season fruitful winter-hardy variety with thin-skinned small and sour berries. Disadvantage: affected by fungal diseases;
Izmailovskaya- also a mid-season variety, but the berries of Izmailovskaya black currant with a thick aroma, large, sweet and sour taste;
Belarusian sweet- cold and disease resistant variety with medium-sized but very sweet berries. Despite the fact that ripening is extended in time, the berries do not crumble from the bushes.

In addition to those described, varieties Karelskaya, Moskovskaya, Pygmey, Exotic, Selechenskaya-2, Detskoselskaya and others grow well in the Moscow region.

Black currants can also be grown in cooler areas. For example, in the Urals, currants of the varieties Nina, Kent, Rhapsody, Pamyat Michurina, Dashkovskaya, Sibilla grow well, and in Siberia - Minusinka, Hercules, Lucia, Zagadka and Brown.

Properties of black currant

Useful properties of black currant

The fruits of black currant are considered a source of health - so many useful substances for the human body are included in their composition. Black currant berries contain vitamins C, B1, B2, B6, B9, D, A, E, K and P, pectins, essential oil, sugars, carotenoids, phosphoric and organic acids, potassium, iron and phosphorus salts. And the leaves, in addition to phytoncides, vitamin C and essential oil, contain sulfur, lead, silver, copper, manganese and magnesium.

The amount of vitamins and other nutrients in black currant is much higher than in any other berries, so it is a healthy food product that strengthens the body, enhances immunity and enhances the healing effect in the fight against diseases. Black currant is indicated for Alzheimer's disease, diabetes, malignant tumors, problems with the cardiovascular system and vision. The use of currant berries is beneficial for progressive atherosclerosis, kidney, respiratory and liver diseases.

Due to the anthocyanidins they contain, black currant berries have anti-inflammatory and disinfectant properties that help the body cope with angina - currant juice diluted with water, rinse a sore throat.

A decoction of black currant berries is useful for anemia, hypertension, bleeding gums, stomach ulcers, duodenal ulcers and gastritis. A mixture of currant juice and honey is used to treat a severe cough.

Rubbing the pulp of berries into the skin, you can make freckles and age spots not so noticeable, and when rubbing it into the cuticles and nail plates, you will make your nails stronger and more beautiful.

The leaves of black currant also have medicinal properties, which many people gladly add to tea, pickles and pickles. The leaves contain more vitamin C than berries, so decoctions, infusions and tea have tonic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, diuretic, cleansing and antirheumatic properties. Medicines from leaves are used for gastritis, cardiovascular diseases, gout, and externally for dermatitis and exudative diathesis.

Both decoctions and infusions can be prepared both from fresh raw materials and from dried black currant leaves. From young foliage in the spring, you can prepare a vitamin drink that strengthens the body: dilute any sour juice with boiled water, pour this mixture over currant leaves for a day, then strain, add a little honey if you want and drink half a glass a day.

You can make wonderful and healthy blackcurrant vinegar from the leaves, a few drops of which will add taste and aroma to any dish: pour fresh blackcurrant leaves with cold sugar syrup (100g of sugar per 1 liter of water), close the container with gauze and leave to ferment for 2 months, then strain and bottle in dark glass.

Black currant - contraindications

Due to the high content of phenolic compounds and vitamin K in black currant, it is contraindicated in thrombophlebitis - prolonged use of berries can lead to increased blood clotting. Fresh berries of black currant and juice from them are unhelpful with increased acidity of the stomach, ulcers and hyperacid gastritis. Fresh berry and juice from it is not recommended after a stroke, heart attack and with developing thrombosis.

Pure, undiluted blackcurrant juice can cause allergies in children, but diluted in small amounts can increase the level of hemoglobin in the blood. It is undesirable to consume black currant juice during pregnancy.

For healthy people, in order to get the required amount of vitamin C, it is enough to eat only 20 black currant berries daily.

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