Insulation made of coniferous needles. Winter Is Coming. We insulate the conifers on our site. Thermal insulation with clay-sawdust raw mass

THE RANGE OF GOODS OF MODERN GARDENING STORES BETCHES THE IMAGINATION: THERE ARE NUMEROUS TYPES OF COVERING AND MULCHING MATERIALS, VARIOUS FERTILIZERS, INSECTUHYNTICIDES ... I DO NOT THINK EVERYTHING. THIS IS WHY I DECIDED TO TELL ABOUT THE ORDINARY PINE NEEDLES, WHICH WILL BRING GREAT USE IN ANY APARTMENT LAND AND HELP TO REFUSE TO BUY THESE NECESSARY, BUT EXPENSIVE

PINE NEEDLES AS A MULCH

On a neighboring summer cottage, a huge pine tree grows close to our common fence. Every year she dropped a large amount of needles, which I did not always have time to remove. And when one day I got around to this event, I found damp soil under a thick layer of coniferous litter, while the rest of my garden was suffocating from the scorching summer heat.

This observation gave me a brilliant idea - to use coniferous litter as mulch. It was not difficult to get a large amount of pine needles: our SNT borders on a vast pine forest. For half an hour, I filled the car to the top with bags of this free material, which was enough for me to mulch all vegetable beds, a flower garden and tree-trunk circles of garden plantings.

ON A NOTE

To protect my hands FROM THICKNESSES, when gardening with needles, I use not ordinary cotton gloves, but denser ones designed for pruning thorny bushes. And in the cellar, where my harvest is also stored with shifted needles, I specially leave strong gloves: I put them on every time when I take out another batch of vegetables from there for eating.

Under a layer of mulch 3 - 5 cm thick, the soil remained wet after watering much longer, so I stopped worrying about my green pets, leaving them unattended until the next weekend. In addition, the mulch drowned out weeds and prevented the formation of a crust on the soil surface, eliminating the need to loosen the aisles and weed out unwanted vegetation.

I still use coniferous litter as mulch - and I never cease to rejoice at this economical find, which saved me from having to buy special mulching materials in the store.

Thorny beds and tree trunks

In the spring, after the emergence of seedlings or planting seedlings, I mulch the needles of a garden with vegetables... And I have to renew a thick layer of mulch under trees, shrubs and garden strawberries only occasionally: the needles on the soil surface rot very slowly. For the same reason, in the fall, after harvesting vegetables, I rake the needles from the surface of the beds and send them to the compost heap for “ripening”.

I dig up the beds with the addition of mineral fertilizers and organic matter, and I also add wood ash for digging at the rate of 1 half-liter jar per 1 m2, since coniferous litter, with its regular use, tends to acidify the soil. If there is no ash on hand, I use fluff lime, chalk or dolomite flour according to the instructions. I act differently with horticultural crops: I shift the layer of needles to the side, add fertilizers and deoxidizers to the near-trunk circle, plugging them into the soil with a hoe, and then return the mulch to its place.

After harvesting, I tried coniferous mulch in the soil, but I did not like it: in the spring it is very difficult to work with the “prickly” soil. Therefore, now I use coniferous litter, which I have a large amount in the fall, to prepare humus.

Cooking coniferous humus

The needles decay for a very long time, from 3 to 5 years, so for the sake of speeding up the process, I use a little trick. To do this, I put needles, fresh mullein (for every 1 m 3 of needles I take about 100 kg of manure), tops of vegetables, weeds, kitchen waste, layering them in small portions of garden soil, and then abundantly spill the contents of the thief of any microbiological fertilizer according to the instructions and cover the bunch with thick film. I use similar solutions 2 - 3 more times in the next season, and also periodically ventilate and moisturize ripening humus from a hose. With this approach, coniferous litter rots 2 times faster, and after 1.5 years by the next spring I get the most valuable fertilizer.

If a mullein is not available, then I fill the compost chamber with needles and plant residues mixed with garden soil and moisten each layer abundantly with a strong solution of urea (200 g per 10 l of water). In the future, I also use solutions of microbiological preparations - and at the same time I get a loose homogeneous mass, which, thanks to the rich chemical composition of coniferous needles, is saturated with a mass of useful macro- and microelements.

And the presence of a large amount of essential oils and phytoncides in pine needles completely frees such humus from pathogenic microflora and insect pests, which often choose "ordinary" humus for wintering or places of permanent residence.

Coniferous humus has a slightly acidic reaction, therefore, before adding it under the plants, I add a glass of wood ash to each bucket of such fertilizer. But if it seems tiresome to someone, you can sprinkle layers of ingredients with wood ash or a purchased deoxidizer at the stage of laying humus according to the instructions.

Let the vegetable garden wake up early!

Slowly decaying pine needles are an excellent material for building warm beds... I prepare such beds in the fall in order to harvest an ultra-early harvest of vegetables from them next season.

To do this, on the planned site, I dig a trench with a depth of two shovel bayonets. I cover its bottom with a thick layer of needles, sprinkled with wood ash, spread a layer of manure on top, and then fill the hole to the top with soft-stemmed plants - weeds without seeds and roots and tops of vegetables, interlayering them with small portions of soil. The top layer is fertile soil 15 - 20 cm thick. I use the fillings so much that at the end of the work such a bed would rise 25 - 30 cm above the ground. I spill the contents abundantly with a solution of microbiological fertilizer and cover it with a thick black film.

By the spring, the bed settles, and with the arrival of the first thaw, the processes of organic decomposition are actively launched in it, due to which heat is released, and the soil on the bed warms up at the earliest possible date. This allows you to plant seedlings a month earlier than usual. To do this, I make cross-shaped cuts in the film and plant the plants in them, after which I set arcs over the bed and cover them with spunbond to protect the plantings from spring frosts. The contents of such a bed alter for a long time and allows you to use it for several years.

Alternative to spruce branches

The beneficial properties of coniferous litter do not end there - I successfully use it for warming plants for the winter... I remove the lashes of covering grapes, actinidia, clematis and other heat-loving vines from the trellis, tie them and lay them on the ground. I bend the branches of "tender" trees (rhododendron, azaleas, roses, thermophilic varieties of berries, etc.) to the ground and fasten them with metal pins. After that, I take out the bags with the needles previously dried in the sun from the bins and fill the ground part of the plants with it to the top. Then I cover the coniferous rollers with a thick film and fix its ends with stones or sprinkle with a layer of earth.

In the same way, I insulate bulbous flowers and beds with vegetables planted before winter - I fall asleep with dry needles and cover with foil. I use the film in order to protect plants from damping off during the winter thaws, the risk of which increases many times under such a dense layer of wet mulch. And I insulate the root system of young seedlings of trees and shrubs in a different way: for this I lay out dense garbage bags filled with dry needles in their near-trunk circles.

A dry shelter based on needles perfectly protects plants from winter frosts. And if, when using other materials, such as straw or sawdust, such shelters became a cozy wintering place for rodents, now this problem does not arise: thorny needles do not allow voles to come close to such "houses".

Needles as an insecticide

In early spring, various pests of fruit trees and berry bushes wake up in the garden, which immediately begin to lay. In order to protect against them, I spend spraying plants with coniferous infusion... To prepare it, I first finely chop 1 - 1.5 kg of young pine branches with a hatchet, place them in a bucket and fill the container to the top with hot water. I keep the contents in a warm place under a lid for 3 - 4 days, stirring it periodically.

Then I filter the infusion, dilute it by half with clean water, add a couple of tablespoons of liquid soap and process trees and shrubs with a solution from a sprayer. I repeat the spraying several times: during the period of bud swelling on the plants, in the pink bud phase, and also immediately after flowering. Such an economical remedy replaces expensive insecticides and allows you to rid the garden of the apple moth, flower beetle, weevil, sucker and leafworm.

I also noticed that coniferous infusion is an excellent remedy for various types of aphids, which loves to settle not only on garden crops, but also on garden crops, for example, cucumbers and tomatoes. To protect against aphids, I spray the garden crops with the above-described infusion diluted with water 1: 1, and for processing vegetables I prepare a weaker solution - 1 part of the infusion and 2 parts of water.

In one of the seasons, with the help of two sprays, carried out at an interval of 2 days, I completely rid my cabbage of white-grass caterpillars - and took this agent into service. However, in the new season, she decided that it was better not to allow the appearance of these gluttonous pests on plants at all, and immediately after planting the seedlings in the ground, she began to spray the cabbage bed every 10-12 days with coniferous broth, which scared off the white butterflies and did not give them the opportunity to lay eggs on the plants ... Now I carry out such procedures every season, and my cabbage is always clean.

To prepare the broth, I put 1.5 - 2 kg of chopped pine twigs into a large enamel pan, pour 6 liters of water and put it on the fire. I boil the contents under a lid over low heat for 15 - 20 minutes, and after cooling down, I filter. I prepare a working solution for spraying from 2 liters of broth and 8 liters of pure water and add a couple of tablespoons of liquid soap there so that the aromatic potion settles on the leaves.

Coniferous solution is an effective remedy against cruciferous flea beetles... Therefore, to protect against this pest, in order to prevent it, I regularly spray not only cabbage, but also radishes, radishes, daikon and other crops of the cabbage family.

But to protect against the Colorado potato beetle, which, as it turned out, also does not tolerate the pine smell, I am preparing a more concentrated solution - 4 liters of broth for 6 liters of water.

By the way, in order to protect potatoes from wireworms, you do not need to prepare infusions or decoctions, but you can use coniferous litter from the forest.

To do this, in the spring, during planting of tubers, it is necessary to add a handful of pine needles to each hole, and the enemy will be defeated: the smell of decaying needles disorients the pest.

Fortunately, there are no slugs on my garden plot, but my friend, having suffered with these gluttonous pests, found salvation in coniferous litter. Now, along the perimeter of each bed, she pours rollers of coniferous needles, and the slugs are unable to get to the leaves and fruits of vegetables. She does the same in the case of trees and shrubs, whose young leaves slugs like to feast on: she makes rounded sides from needles in their near-trunk circles.

Fungicidal properties of litter

Having started using the infusion of pine branches on cucumbers and tomatoes to protect against aphids, I noticed that these plants were much less damaged by fungal diseases. Now coniferous infusion, diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 2, I use on these and others cultures more methodically, with an interval of 10 to 14 days. Most of all, it is pleasing that after such preventive spraying, tomatoes are affected by late blight only in extremely unfavorable weather - during the period of cold prolonged rains, when it is impossible to spray with either folk remedies or fungicides.

And cucumbers and zucchini, thanks to such a budgetary means, have become less susceptible to their main disease - powdery mildew.

Pine-scented harvest

The bactericidal and antiseptic properties of pine needles help me not only to get a generous harvest at my summer cottage, but also keep it for a longer period in the cellar... For this purpose, I use well-dried coniferous needles, which I pour over the roots during storage. At the bottom of the bin, in which I am going to put carrots, beets, radishes, daikon or other vegetables, first I put needles in a layer of 2-3 cm, then I spread the root vegetables in one layers, crush them with needles, put a new layer of vegetables - and I do this until I fill it the whole bins. With this approach, the roots remain juicy and elastic for much longer and are not damaged by rot.

WHEN BRANCHES ARE SUITABLE

But what about the pine spruce branches? On the eve of winter, I, of course, use it to protect young tree trunks from rodents. To do this, I tie pine branches with needles down to the trunk of each tree, and they do not allow rodents to get to the tasty bark.

Due to its pronounced aroma, the needles can be used to combat a wide variety of garden and horticultural pests. But in this case, I do not use dried coniferous litter, which has lost the bulk of its essential oils, but young pine twigs, which I cut in the neighboring forest in early spring. At this time, the needles are maximally saturated with phytoncides and useful substances, therefore infusions and decoctions from it not only do an excellent job with pests, but also act as additional plant nutrition.

Although in recent years, a wide variety of modern heaters have appeared on sale, environmentally friendly waste from the woodworking industry has not lost its relevance as thermal insulation materials. This is, of course, primarily about sawdust.

Sawdust is especially often used as a heater when building houses in regions rich in forest spaces, since a large number of sawmills are usually located here. And this means that there is an opportunity to purchase material at a low price, and sometimes even find it practically for free.

Sawdust as insulation - "pros" and "cons"

Sawdust and materials made on their basis are used to insulate almost any elements of the house - attic floors, walls, floors, cellars, etc. In addition, blocks are made from wood waste, which are widely used for the construction of residential and auxiliary buildings.

This material does not lose its popularity due to its positive characteristics, which include the following:

• One of the most important advantages can be safely called the absolute ecological purity of sawdust. They do not emit substances toxic to human health, so they can be used in any quantity.
• An important advantage is the already mentioned low price of material, available to everyone, and sometimes the ability to get them for free.

• Sawdust is excellent, of course, if the stacking technology is properly followed. If the thermal insulation layer corresponds to the required thickness, in accordance with the climatic conditions of the region, then such insulation will in no way be inferior in its effectiveness to other modern materials.

• Sawdust can be used for insulation, both in the usual free-flowing state, and in other forms. For example, it can be slabs mixed with other natural or artificial materials.

The disadvantages of using this insulation in its pure form include high flammability. However, if you use sawdust in clay or cement mixtures, then their flammability is significantly reduced.

If we argue from the standpoint that the rafters, attic floors and walls are made of wood pre-treated with fire retardants, then sawdust will perfectly fit into this complex of buildings, provided that they are also subjected to special processing. In addition, it will be necessary to provide for high-quality insulation of all electrical cables that will cross the insulation layer or be located in its thickness. The thermal insulation of the chimney in the places where it passes through the attic floor or located near the wall requires special attention.

It should be noted that sawdust is by no means the only natural material that has long been used to insulate housing. And if you look at the table below, then they are in no way inferior to other natural " thermal insulators».

Of course, not all sawdust is the same - a lot depends on the type and quality of wood, from which they are obtained.

So, the almost unconditional "leader" in this matter is oak sawdust. They are less hygroscopic than sawdust obtained from other tree species. Even if moisture gets on them, it will not do them much harm, since oak contains natural antiseptic substances. Therefore, they are not susceptible to rot and do not swell when exposed to water.

However, oak sawdust is too widespread You can't call it material. It's okay - waste from conifers: spruce, larch or pine is also well suited as a heater. Coniferous wood has an abundance of essential oils in its composition that staunchly resist the appearance of fungus or rot, that is, by nature itself, antifungal and antiseptic qualities are embedded in the material.

Sawdust preparation

Sawdust, clean, not prepared cannot be considered completely suitable for the manufacture of blocks or for backfill as insulation. After final drying, they become a very fire hazardous material. In addition, they can be chosen by various insects or rodents for making nests.

Therefore, you must first work with clean material:

First of all, sawdust is processed with special compounds that have properties and a fire retardant.

First, the sawdust is mixed with a deep penetration antiseptic, and after drying, with a fire retardant. All processes can be carried out on a covered film a ventilated area under a roof, for example, under a canopy.

• After processing with a fire retardant, sawdust is mixed with slaked lime, which will not allow rodents and insects to settle in the insulation.

Lime is added to sawdust in proportions of 1: 5, that is, one part of lime to five parts of sawdust. The measurement can be carried out in bags - for example, five bags of sawdust and one bag of dry lime are poured out, and then thoroughly mixed. If the work is carried out manually, then mixing can be carried out using an ordinary hoe and a shovel.

• In addition, it should be borne in mind that sawdust used for insulation in loose form tends to sag over time, reducing the formed air gap and, naturally, losing its insulating qualities. Therefore, after a certain period, you will have to do their filling or lay another insulation on top of them.

Considering such a negative factor of subsidence, in order to prevent the need for periodic renewal or strengthening of the thermal insulation layer, a mixture is made consisting of sawdust, lime and gypsum in proportions of 9: 1: 5. Then the mixture is moistened with water, mixed, and immediately placed on a prepared base ...

Since gypsum hardens very quickly, the composition must be prepared in small portions in order to have time to lay them out before hardening in the place intended for them, otherwise the material will be spoiled.

If there is no desire to rush, adjusting to the setting time of the gypsum, it can be replaced with cement mortar.

When using this method of insulation, preliminary drying of the sawdust is not required. They can be used immediately after delivery from the sawmill.

Prices for various types of antiseptics

Antiseptics

Ways to insulate a house with sawdust

As mentioned above, for insulation using sawdust, several options for various mixtures with the addition of gypsum and cement are used, but the most popular still remains the old folk method - a composition with clay.

Sawdust with clay

Clay and sawdust are two natural materials that are absolutely safe for the health of the residents of the house. In the mixture, they form a material with excellent heat-insulating and waterproofing qualities, therefore, they are well suited for wall insulation, etc. After hardening, the clay is not affected by hot steam, which cannot be said about most other modern insulation or waterproofing materials. Well, the sawdust in the mixture will create a good thermal insulation effect.

In addition, the clay-sawdust mixture tolerates high temperatures and fireproof.

The advantages of this composition include the fact that such a heater is perfect for a house built in any region - both where the summer heat reaches critical thermometer marks, and where there are tough frosts in winter.

A mixture of clay and sawdust not only retains heat in the cold period, but also prevents the rooms from heating up in the most intense heat, therefore, in the house, thermally insulated this mixture is warm in winter and cool in summer.

Unlike modern heaters, clay-sawdust material can last for centuries without decomposing and without losing its original qualities.

Insulating a building with wood waste and clay is not so easy. To achieve the desired thermal insulation effect, it is necessary do work in accordance with specific requirements:

• The mixture must be prepared in compliance with certain proportions, otherwise the composition will have low adhesion, and if the walls are smeared with it, then after drying, shedding is possible.

• To achieve the maximum effect from insulation, the mixture must be applied correctly to the walls and have a certain thickness.

In modern conditions, this composition is rarely used for application to walls - most often sawdust with clay is used to create an insulating layer in the attic floor, where the material will not be subjected to serious stress.

If there is a desire to insulate the walls, then it is best to make insulating slabs from clay and small sawdust or from chopped reeds or straw.

Experienced builders working with such material recommend using reeds, since for some reason absolutely.

Vegetable fibers mixed with clay will become a kind of "reinforcement" for the solution, which will increase the bearing capacity of the insulation layer on the walls.

Preparation of the mixture

There are several ways to make a clay-sawdust mixture for home insulation. There are also several methods for laying it down. So, mats can be made from the ready-made mixture, which are fixed on the walls and laid on the attic floor.

Another option is to spread the mixed wet mass between the floor beams or apply it on the wall, on in advance fixed crate.

For the manufacture of an insulation mixture and its further use, it is necessary to prepare certain materials and tools. You will need:

• Sawdust, clay and water.
• Glassine and waterproof tape for bonding.
• Metal box with low sides (or trough) for mixing the mass.
• Large container for soaking clay.
• Bucket .
• A shovel and a hoe.
• Smooth boards from which molds will be assembled for the manufacture of block-panels.

In order for the mixture to be plastic and not to crack upon drying, it is necessary to observe the correct proportions of the starting materials.

A. In the event that the raw mass will be laid on the ceiling or on the surface of the walls, take ⅔ a bucket of sawdust on bucket clay diluted to creamy states.

To obtain such a consistency of clay, it is laid out in a large container, for example, in an old bath or trough, and filled with water, in proportions of 1: 1. The clay is left to swell for a day or more, depending on the initial dryness of the material.

Then the mass is well mixed until smooth. If the mixture is very thick, you can add a small amount of water to it, mix well again and leave yet for 5-6 hours. To process NS went faster, the mass needs to be stirred periodically.

If possible, it is best to soak all the clay necessary for work at once - it will not deteriorate from this, no matter how much it is in the water. And the mixing of the solution can be carried out as the previously prepared portion is consumed.

If there is a farm, then the work will go much faster. But it is most convenient to carry out mixing manually with the help of a hoe and a shovel.

To mix the clay-sawdust solution, another large, but shallow container made of thin metal, with sides 150 ÷ ​​200 mm high, will be needed. The required amount of sawdust is poured there for one portion of the batch, and, according to the proportions, the clay mixture is laid out. Then the composition is well mixed and laid out on the prepared attic floor or applied to the walls.

B. If it is decided to insulate the house with mats made of a clay-sawdust mixture, then the materials are taken in proportions of 1: 1. While the clay swells, during this period it is necessary to make molds of the required size, into which the finished mixture will fit.

If the mats will be laid on the attic floor, then it is worth determining the distance between the beams and their height - according to these parameters, the forms are made. They are, in fact, a box without a bottom.

It is best to make several forms, for the manufacture of several mats at once. To make the blocks even on all sides, it is recommended to proceed as follows:

• One or more plywood sheets are laid on a flat surface, which are covered with a dense plastic wrap.
• Forms are installed on top.
• The prepared clay-sawdust mixture is laid in them and, as far as possible, compacted.
• From above, the composition is aligned using the rule - in this case, the sides of the form will serve as beacons.
• After setting and a little drying of the mixture, the mats can be removed, and further drying will take place without mold, in a well-ventilated place under the roof. They should not be taken out in the sun, since cracking of the resulting blocks may occur upon final drying.
• The released forms are filled with the mixture again - and this continues until the required number of mats is made.

The process of warming with a clay-sawdust composition

The technology of insulation with a clay-sawdust mixture is quite simple, both with the help of mats and by laying out the mixture in a wet state.

Thermal insulation with clay-sawdust raw mass

1. When insulating the attic floor with the help of clay-sawdust mass, you must first prepare the surface on which it will be laid out.

• Boards and floor beams are treated with antiseptic compounds. If there are wide gaps between the boards, then glassine can be laid between the floor beams. In the event that several sheets of glassine are laid, they must be overlapped and preferably fastened with waterproof tape.

• Further, a clay-sawdust mixture is laid on the steel and leveled using a rule.

• Then the leveled surface can be moistened with water and leveled additionally with a spatula.
• After the clay has completely solidified, it will become dense, and you can safely walk on it.

2. can be carried out in two ways - this is throwing a wet mixture onto the walls or pouring it into the formwork attached to the finished main or frame wall.

• On the main wall, clay mortar is applied between the installed beacons with a trowel or thrown by hand and leveled with a rule.

• Another option is to sketch the mixture. on the wall on which shingles are fixed. But in this case, it will not be possible to lay a thick layer. On the shingle, a clay throw of no more than 30 mm will be able to stay.

• After the clay-sawdust layer has dried, it is leveled with sand-cement mortar, and then with plaster.

3. The third option for wall insulation with a wet mass is to lay it in the formwork installed along the main walls, or fixed on both sides on the frame racks.

• Formwork panels are made from planks 1000 mm high. They are fixed on both sides of the frame racks or parallel to the main wall, at a distance of 200 ÷ 250 mm from it.
• The formwork is being laid sawdust-clay mixtures with careful compaction. After that, the composition is given time to dry.
• After the mixture has dried, the formwork is removed and rises higher, where it is again fixed in the same way.
• The filling process is repeated in the same order until the top of the wall is reached.

• Since there will be openings from above between the frame beam or the wall and the ceiling that cannot be filled using this technology, you will have to make mats of the required size, install and fix them on a clay mortar over the finished lower sections of the walls.

Insulation of walls and ceilings with clay-sawdust mats

Sawdust-clay the mats are laid in the same way as the mats of other insulation materials.

• The diagram looks like this:

1 - Attic floor beams.

2 - Ceiling.

3 - Rough floor of the attic floor.

4 - Glassine is laid on the bottom and top of the insulation.

5 – Sawdust-clay plate.

6 - Boards of the attic final floor.

• The preparation of the floorboards is carried out in the same way as when pouring the clay mass.
• Further, ready-made slabs are laid on the covered surface. If there are large gaps between the floor beams and the mats, then they will have to be filled with a wet mass of clay and sawdust.
• To insulate the main walls, a crate is fixed on them from a bar having the size of the thickness of the mat (if it is not more than 100 mm). The distance between the battens should be equal to the width of the mat. The installed plates will be most conveniently fixed with slats, nailing them onto the lathing bars.
• In the event that the insulation is carried out in a cold region, where the average winter temperatures reach minus 25 ÷ 30 degrees, insulation boards must be at least 300 ÷ 400 mm thick. Such slabs, or rather, blocks, are mounted on a clay-sand mortar, according to the principle of brickwork.

• If the frame walls are insulated, then it is necessary to provide for the installation of two rows of bars or boards with a thickness of at least 70 ÷ 80 mm. If two bars are installed that determine the thickness of the wall of the house, then sawdust-clay blocks will fit between them. In order for the blocks to fit tightly with each other in the places where the frame bars are installed, square cuts are made in them in the corners, repeating the shapes and sizes of the bar.

• When the main walls are insulated, it is recommended to make masonry from blocks at a distance of 70 ÷ 100 mm from the wall.
• After the insulation layer is raised by 800 ÷ 1000 mm, it is recommended to make expanded clay backfill between it and the wall.
• Then the insulating wall rises another 700 ÷ 1000 mm, backfill is done again - and so on up to the very top of the wall.
• Upon completion of the insulation, the walls must be necessarily cement or clay mortar.

Sawdust with cement

If, instead of clay, cement is chosen as "partners" for sawdust, then the process of making, applying or laying the mixture is not much different from working with sawdust-clay solution, but the components and proportions are slightly changed.

So, in this case, in addition to cement and sawdust, lime is required. The components are taken in a ratio of 1: 10: 1. Additionally, copper sulfate or boric acid can be added to the mixture as an antiseptic. These components will require approximately 50 g per 50 kg of the mixture. Each portion of the mass will require from 5 to 10 liters of water, depending on the method of insulation.

If all the ingredients are available, the mixture is kneaded:

• All components are poured into a container prepared for mixing, mixed with a hoe in a dry state until smooth.
• Antiseptics are added last, and then the mixture is immediately poured with water and mixed. It will be better if the antiseptic components are diluted in the water poured into the mixture - then they will be absorbed faster into the sawdust.
• The mixed mixture should be checked for readiness. This is done in this way - the mixture is collected in the palm of your hand and compressed. If water does not ooze from the lump, and it does not crumble, then the composition is ready for making slabs, for laying in the formwork or for distribution over the surface of the attic floor.

On the attic floor, as in the case of clay, glassine is laid under the laid out mixture, but in this case it can be replaced with plastic wrap.

After the laying of the damp insulation is completed, it is left to harden.

Thermal insulation with bulk material

Warming with dry sawdust is quite simple to carry out. Processed and dried sawdust is simply poured onto the attic floor. Their layer thickness varies depending on the winter and summer temperatures of the region. More precisely, this parameter can be found in the table at the beginning of the article.

Sawdust for insulation is used dry or in the form of sawdust granules - pellets.

They are made from small sawdust with the addition of an antiseptic, fire retardant and carboxymethyl cellulose glue. The finished granules are practically non-flammable, and rodents do not start in them. It should be noted that they are more convenient and practical for insulating floors than just sawdust, since they do not shrink and retain heat well.

• The granules are filled on the prepared surface - slits the boards are coated with a clay-lime composition, or they cover the subfloor with glassine.
• Spread the granules evenly between the floor beams. If a layer of greater thickness is required, then sides are installed along the perimeter of the attic, with a height equal to the required thickness of the backfill layer - then the granules are stacked to their top.
• If you plan to make a floor in the attic from a plank covering, laid on top of insulation, then the additional crate is fixed to the floor beams, that is, they are raised in height.

Video: warming the attic with dry sawdust

The walls are also insulated with dry sawdust or granules, filling them inside. If ordinary sawdust is used, then it should be well treated with antiseptics. In addition, in order to make them heavier, but maintain their low thermal conductivity, sawdust is sometimes mixed with slag. The walls, built and insulated in this way, reliably protect the house from the penetration of cold and summer heat.

• The insulation is filled in as the main walls are raised by 700 ÷ 1000 mm, with a mandatory, but not excessively strong rammer for compaction.

• After backfilling and tamping, the walls rise again to a certain height, and this process continues until the entire required height is reached.

⃰ ⃰ ⃰ ⃰ ⃰

Output:

With proper pretreatment, both the sawdust themselves and the compositions made with them are excellent thermal insulator, which is quite capable of replacing any of the modern materials. Using them, you can be 100% sure that none of the household members will develop allergies or other diseases associated with the release of toxic substances, which sometimes "sin" some synthetic insulation materials.

Foreword

Conifers in the garden are stylish, beautiful and prestigious. However, you will have to pay for such beauty - no, not with money, but with the time spent on care. Conifers especially need your attention in winter. In this article we will tell you why you need to shelter conifers for the winter and how to carry it out.

How to cover conifers for the winter

Sheltering conifers for the winter is a very responsible process of plant protection, so we recommend that you study the video and other information provided in this article. Already in the fall, when the days are either sunny or rainy, you need to get busy. Conifers during this period are not yet sufficiently strong, which means they can be severely affected by strong winds or the first frosts. It is the first wintering that is quite dangerous for these plants. There are several ways to hide.

So, if your coniferous tree grows in a tub, then you should definitely bring it into a house or a room where a constant temperature is maintained. However, the size of the plants can change your plans - if the trees simply do not fit through the doors, you will have to think about hiding the coniferous beauties right on the street.

As an effective and inexpensive covering material, you can use spruce branches, which are laid in the form of a hut, covering the plant from top to bottom.... By the way, this affordable heat-insulating material can be used to protect against winter frosts and other plants.

What if you can't get spruce branches? Then you can make a covering material in the form of homemade pillows stuffed with sawdust, straw or various rags. If the frosts in your area are very strong, we advise you to use everything in the complex for plant protection - both spruce branches and bags. All of your multi-layer protection should be well reinforced so that nothing will fly apart in strong winds. To do this, spruce branches are fixed with staples or simply sprinkled with earth below, and the pillows are tied with twine.

If the one-year-old seedlings by the fall have already been planted in open ground, then here it is necessary to approach the shelter of plants for the winter somewhat differently. First, the root system should be insulated. To do this, you can pour a large layer of sawdust or peat on top of the soil in the area of ​​the trunk circle. Also, for these purposes, the spruce spruce branches indicated above, laid directly on the ground or simply coniferous needles, are suitable for these purposes.

The branches should be tied with twine so that they are pressed against the trunk. Firstly, then it will be much easier to wrap the plant with heat-insulating material, and secondly, this will protect the branches from wind and heavy snow.

For shelter, you can use a material known as spunbond or agrofiber. It is a special non-woven fabric with a high degree of resistance to both low and high air temperatures. He is not afraid of precipitation - rainfall, wind, snow and even hail. A definite plus - it allows air and steam to pass through, so that the covered plants will not suffer from rotting.

Winter protection options for conifers

Polyethylene can also be used to protect trees from frost. Only in this case it is recommended to create a frame of stakes or metal rods and fix the film on top of the frame. If you wrap polyethylene around the plants, this is fraught with rotting of the needles, because the film does not allow air to pass through. When creating the frame, make sure that it holds well - it will have to withstand all gusts of wind and the weight of the snow that has fallen. Watch a video that details the shelter of conifers and plant protection options for the winter - you will get answers to many questions.

It would seem that there is already something to write about heaters ... 🙂 But we have invented so many artificial heaters based on the "bad" insulator - Air, that you cannot pass by. Is it just us? And how many natural insulation materials were presented by Mother Nature! Let's remember and look at everything at once, we don't need much ... * PARDON *

Of course I'll start with natural ones. It is cheap and therefore fashionable in a crisis 🙂 If you missed someone, add in the comments and I will correct ...

Tyrsa, turf, peat briquettes, pine needles, straw, husks, reeds, cork (cork oak bark), linen and hemp mats, damask (dried sea grass), sheep wool, ash, slag (as waste from home heating). Not a little. Nature is Generous. And on the basis of these heaters, our Ancestors created systems of Eco Houses and even villages in which whole generations lived.

But modern Man is more civilized. He had increased requirements for comfort, and this required the creation of more efficient and more durable insulation. Following the numerically growing Humanity, the area of ​​houses has also grown with the requirements for their Comfort. Today, thanks to modern heaters, we consume less energy per capita than our ancestors (I didn't invent it, I read the statistics 😉). And what artificial heaters (requiring high-tech equipment and additional energy) are on the market today?

Cellulose, basalt wool, glass wool, slag wool, foam glass, vermiculite, perlite, expanded clay, polystyrene (PSB and EPS), polyethylene foam, polypropylene foam, vacuum panels, aerated concrete, aerated concrete, slag (production waste). I am not listing building materials based on these heaters and with better thermal insulation properties (ceramic blocks, foam concrete, cinder block, glued timber, etc.), because they are not just heaters.

As we can see, there is plenty to choose from. Why do we need such a choice? And the answer is simple ... Each material has a set of properties. The art of the Builder lies in the fact that knowing the properties of materials, choose the insulation that has its best sides will be used as much as possible in a particular situation!

ATTENTION!

PUBLIC OWN PERSONAL OPINION

The Internet is full of information and tables with the technical characteristics of building materials and insulation in particular. They are interesting to me as a Professional Builder. But I'm not going to retype or copy them. After all, not for that, you came to mine Construction Blog, so as not to get answers once again.

I am compiling Comparative Tables for Ukraine according to different principles. I assign points based on my own experience and analysis of the properties of materials. I take into account not only technical parameters, but also durability, manufacturability, etc. The main condition ... DO NOT GIVE THE SAME POINTS.

Next moment. Don't forget that Home is a System! Insulation is only a small part of this system. That's why not only him, but also on him other system elements affect! Make sure to make the final choice of material with your Architect. After all, He is responsible for your House.

On the other hand. Yes, I do not take into account the effect that insulation has on other materials. In this case, I am interested in the Insulation itself. His personal selfish Comfort! 🙂 Where in the system of the House, he can show his positive qualities to the maximum. But your Design Engineer and Architect is responsible for making him feel good there. Don't forget this. Any material can be destroyed by illiterate use.

What? Scared? 🙂 Of course it's scary. Choices are always scary. So let's watch the video and make a choice consciously ...

The first table is Natural Heaters. As you can see, their variety allows you to insulate the whole house. From the foundation to the roof. And at the same time, their durability has long been proven. For example, there are houses from Saman that are 150 years old and the straw in them is in excellent condition. And the turf roof has served for over 50 years. Many modern materials cannot boast of this, as well as the Environmental friendliness of the material itself, as well as their Production and, of course, Disposal.

But we should not forget about other characteristics of materials. This is not just the original The price of the material itself, a Construction Price with these materials. Their manufacturability (natural) - which is often inferior to modern Artificial materials, which fit easier and faster ...

Of course, to cover everything in tablets and a small video - Impossible! But this is not the last topic in the Blog 😉 Gradually, on the pages of my Construction Blog, I will reveal all the features of the use of materials. I have a lot of work to do, and you need to be patient. 🙂

Best regards, Alexander Terekhov.

Insulation of the ceiling in a private house can significantly reduce the amount of heat loss during the cold period and significantly improve the indoor microclimate in the summer. High-quality thermal insulation will give you, in addition to increasing comfort, tangible savings in the family budget for heating. The costs associated with the purchase of insulation will pay off in 2-3 years.

In addition to reducing the cost of heating a house, floor insulation solves a number of other problems. By preventing warm air from entering the attic, the insulating structure prevents the accumulation of water vapor and moisture in the under-roof space, which damage the rafters and floor joists. In addition, insulation allows you to avoid melting snow on the roof and the formation of large icicles, which are very dangerous during thaws. When organizing a living space in the attic, the soundproofing function is very useful. In any case, ceiling insulation is a necessary measure for a private house.

Carrying out work on insulation of the ceiling is quite within the power of any home craftsman. Installation requires a minimum level of initial training of the performer. The tips below will help you avoid common mistakes and get the planned work done quickly and effortlessly. By carefully planning the workflow and by timely procurement of the necessary materials in the right quantity, you will save your time, hassle and transportation costs. Let's consider in detail how to properly insulate the ceiling in a private house.

Where to insulate the ceiling: inside or outside

Ceiling insulation in a private house can be carried out both from the inside and outside. Both options give pretty good results. They differ in the materials used and the methods of their installation, therefore, each master chooses the option that is convenient for himself under specific living conditions, taking into account economic feasibility.

Attic floor insulation options

With an external version of insulation, thermal insulation is placed in the attic. If the attic space is not used, then the insulation does not need decorative finishing, which favorably distinguishes this option from the previous one. In addition, it is much more convenient to work with external insulation.

Internal insulation provides for the fastening of heat-insulating materials to the inner surface of the ceiling and the installation of suspended structures made of plasterboard, plastic, wood, etc. It should be borne in mind that with internal insulation, 15-20 cm of the height of the room is lost. Therefore, if your ceiling is at the level of 2.5 m or lower, then you should give preference to insulation from the attic side.

Internal insulation should be chosen if you are going to make repairs and plan to install a suspended ceiling. In all other cases, preference should be given to external insulation.

The choice of material for thermal insulation

The following thermal insulation materials are popular for insulating private houses:

1. Styrofoam;
2. Expanded polystyrene;
3. Penoizol;
4. Polyurethane foam;
5. Penofol;
6. Mineral wool;
7. Basalt wool;
8. Ecowool;
9. Expanded clay;
10. Sawdust;
11. Vermiculite;
12. Dry grass, needles, reeds.

External insulation using foam or expanded polystyrene is perhaps one of the cheapest and most affordable ways. This task is fairly easy to accomplish on your own. The materials are resistant to moisture, do not rot, do not burn, but melt in the event of a fire, emitting caustic poisonous smoke. Expanded polystyrene essentially consists of the same material as polystyrene, only it is made a little differently. The main disadvantages are the release of poisonous phosgene gas during combustion and a relatively short service life (up to 10 years). When using them, it is necessary to pay increased attention to fire safety.

Penoizol is a liquid foam. Does not burn, is vapor-permeable, biologically stable, surpasses foam in terms of thermal insulation properties. Manufacturers declare complete safety for humans after hardening. It is produced directly on site and installed using a special expensive installation, so the work is carried out only by specialized teams. Convenient and cost effective for large volumes.

Similarly, work is carried out with polyurethane foam, which is synthesized from two liquid components. Depending on the proportion used, a polymer foam with different properties is obtained. The surface is covered with a continuous layer without joints, excluding the possibility of blowing through the cracks. Disadvantage - poisonous substances are released during combustion.

Penoizol pouring process

Penofol - foamed polyethylene covered with aluminum foil. Prevents penetration of cold air, drafts and radon, reflects radiant heat into the room. The material is very light, does not create additional loads, works very well in combination with mineral wool. Due to its small thickness, it hardly affects the height of the room.

Mineral wool contains mainly natural materials: sand, rocks or melts. Available in rolls and sheets of various sizes. It has good heat and sound insulation characteristics and an affordable price. It needs protection from moisture, since it completely loses its insulating properties when wet. It is resistant to temperature extremes, restores its shape after loading, but over time it cakes. The material, unlike glass wool, almost does not prick, but still requires protective equipment during operation. The main disadvantage is the content of phenol, which can easily penetrate the human skin.

Basalt wool is made from rock melts. Available in mats and slabs. It is characterized by resistance to stress and high temperatures, hydrophobicity, elasticity. The material is able to pass water vapor and does not allow them to accumulate inside, does not shrink and can withstand operation for up to 70 years without loss of quality. Just like mineral wool, it contains phenolic binders, and fibers can irritate the skin and mucous membranes.

When working indoors, they usually use cotton wool - mineral or basalt. it vapor permeable materials that allow the ceiling to "breathe".

Ecowool is a free-flowing material of natural origin, composed of 80% cellulose with additives of borates, which protect it from easy inflammation and decay. Laying work can be carried out wet using a special installation and dry by hand. The manual method is extremely simple. It is enough to pour cotton wool between the lags on a pre-laid glassine and slightly loosen it. Ecowool increases in volume by 2-3 times. The recommended layer thickness is 30 cm. The thermal conductivity is the same as that of mineral wool, while ecowool is not afraid of moisture, prevents the development of fungi and mold. Serves over 100 years.

It is possible to use cheap local materials for insulating the attic floor, such as expanded clay, sawdust, hay, pine needles, reeds, clay and slag. Their cost is often only equal to the cost of delivery, but the thermal insulation properties are noticeably lower and it is more difficult to lay them. Sawdust needs special protective treatment before laying. Otherwise, they can be damaged by rodents, rot and be very flammable. Hay is a tempting place to settle for various small bugs and insects. For a tangible thermal insulation effect, all bulk insulation requires a significant thickness - from 30 cm, which leads to a heavy load on the floors.

Good results are obtained by combining sawdust with vermiculite. Both materials are of natural origin, easily absorb moisture and easily release it, maintaining optimal humidity. Vermiculite is made from hydromica and is considered an ideal bulk insulation with environmental properties. In terms of thermal conductivity, it is comparable to mineral wool. The only drawback of vermiculite is the price.

Laying loose insulation provides for filling them between the logs or beams of a specially made sheathing.

If environmental friendliness of materials is fundamental for you, then you should opt for expanded clay or sawdust with vermiculite. If high thermal insulation properties and ease of installation are important, basalt wool is your choice.

Thermal insulation with basalt wool: step by step

Let's consider in detail how to do outdoor insulation with your own hands using one of the most effective insulation - basalt wool.

Necessary materials:

1. Basalt wool slabs 100 mm thick;
2. Vapor barrier film;
3. Waterproofing film;
4. Foil tape;
5. Wooden bar;
6. Hardware.

Instruments:

1. Stapler;
2. Roulette;
3. Hacksaw or jigsaw;
4. Hammer;
5. Locksmith knife;
6. Screwdriver.

• Step 1. First of all, you need to thoroughly clean the attic and create a flat surface for laying basalt wool.
• Step 2. If the attic is planned to be residential, then a wooden frame is laid for the future floor. The step between the lags is determined in accordance with the width of the insulation plates in order to ensure the most snug fit.

In the presence of wooden floor beams, the insulation is placed in the space between them. In case of insufficient height, additional bars are attached from above.

If the attic will not be used, then this item can be skipped.

The height of the insulation depends on the climatic features of the area and the roof structure. In most cases, it is optimal to use two layers of basalt wool 100 mm thick.

• Step 3. A vapor barrier film is laid. If the floor is reinforced concrete, then this point can be skipped, since it has a low vapor permeability.

Fastening to floor beams or joists is carried out using a construction stapler with wrapping edges. In new construction, the film is placed under the beams. The sheets are overlapped by 150-200 mm, fastened with moisture-resistant tape and must be installed on the walls by at least 200 mm to ensure the prevention of moisture penetration. The best option is the use of foil-clad material. In this case, the sheets are placed end-to-end with the foil down and glued with special tape.

Beams and logs are not covered with a vapor barrier film in order to avoid the accumulation of moisture in them and rapid decay.

• Step 4. Sheets of basalt wool are laid on the vapor barrier film, avoiding gaps at the joints if possible. Gaps of 2-3 cm are left near the walls, which do not close to ventilate the cotton wool.

• Step 5. The second layer is laid with the maximum displacement of the seams. In cold climates, the third layer will not be superfluous. It fits across the previous ones and eliminates all potential cold bridges.

For an attic floor that will not be used, you can stop at this (unless, of course, the roof is leaking), or you can play it safe by following the recommendations of the next paragraph.

• Step 6. A waterproofing film is laid to protect the cotton wool from moisture ingress from above during operation.
• Step 7. A structure for moving around the attic is being assembled.

For a residential attic, boards are laid and, if necessary, a finishing coating; for a non-residential attic, it is enough to provide bridges for walking during technical inspection and maintenance of the roof.

It is better to carry out work in the warm season - in summer or early autumn.

For external insulation, it is better to take vapor-proof materials to protect the floor from moisture, for internal - vapor permeable.

The more air the insulation contains, the more effective it is, so we must strive to provide maximum "fluffiness" to materials such as mineral wool, ecowool, sawdust.

Outer insulation will always be cheaper and easier to perform.

With internal insulation of the ceiling and the use of some models of built-in ceiling lamps, frequent burnout of bulbs is possible due to the lack of heat dissipation. In this case, it is better to hang a regular traditional chandelier.

For vapor barrier, you can only use a special film with the appropriate marking or glassine, you cannot use ordinary polyethylene.

Penofol is always laid with foil down.

You can perform complex insulation by combining different insulation materials.

When insulating with basalt wool, it is necessary to use a mask and protective clothing that completely covers the body.

Before starting work, you should carefully study the advantages and disadvantages of all available thermal insulation materials, analyze their operational capabilities, evaluate the costs and complexity of installation. Taking a carefully considered decision and installing thermal insulation, taking into account the above recommendations, guarantees a safe and efficiently insulated ceiling in a private house.