How to lay out a flat wall from a foam block. A guide to self-laying foam concrete blocks. Reinforcing walls from blocks

This material is intended to answer the following questions: how to lay foam blocks with your own hands, the sequence of work and what tool is required for this?

At the end of the article, you can watch a video on the topic "Laying foam blocks"

How to correctly and competently lay foam blocks

Let's take it as an axiom that there is a high-quality wall foam block of grade 600, with exact geometry along the edges (+/- 2 mm), without visible chips and normal adhesion.

Information: the foam block is placed on any type of foundations, except for screw-in piles.
It is also unacceptable to build foam block structures on a wooden base and aggregate masonry with other materials, even those in the same class (gas silicate blocks).

Important: the quality of work is directly dependent on how the first row will be laid.
Before laying the first row of blocks, it is necessary to install a waterproofing layer. According to building codes, the protrusion of blocks above the plinth is allowed by no more than 1/3.

The level is used to determine the highest angle of the foundation. If there is no level, then you can make a hose (tubular) water level with your own hands, the length of which should be several meters longer than the size of the longest wall of the building.

Information: in order to smooth out unevenness in the foundation, the first row of blocks is placed on a cement mortar, where the ratio of cement to sand is 1 to 3.

A foam block is placed in the upper corner and leveled using a horizontal level. In all other corners, the same operation is done.

Information: Blocks are trimmed with a rubber mallet or a regular hammer on the attached board.

After that, a rope is pulled between the blocks, at the level of which the remaining blocks of the first row with vertical knitting are placed. Do not forget that each laid foam block must be adjusted to the previous horizontal level. If the last block in the row does not fit into the remaining gap, it is trimmed with a hacksaw on wood.

Important: Before laying the next rows, it must take at least three hours for the grout to set.

Blocks of the next rows are put on a special glue for cellular concrete "in a run-up" approach to the lower block by at least 8 cm. The thickness of the horizontal and vertical joints should not exceed 3 mm. It is necessary to apply the glue with a special trowel or an ordinary trowel, smoothing the layer with a notched trowel so that when the block is laid it does not stick out beyond the wall. It is necessary to start laying the next rows from the corners. A rope should be pulled over each row.

Important: after every three rows laid, a metal mesh is placed in the wall. This is necessary to evenly distribute the loads over the entire wall area.

The same mesh is also laid under the window openings, on the row preceding the window one, with going beyond the boundaries of the openings by at least 50 cm. This must be done, even if the row is not a multiple of three.
When arranging the upper parts of window and door openings, do not use concrete lintels, but do them yourself using a metal corner.

Important: Before placing the foam block in the last row, it is necessary to lay a metal mesh.

Walls lined with foam concrete blocks should be equipped with a stiffening belt made of ordinary reinforced concrete with an outer layer of insulation. For this, extruded polystyrene foam is well suited, which can serve as a permanent formwork.


Thus, the construction of walls from foam blocks does not present any great difficulties, and the mental question "how to lay blocks of aerated concrete" should not be confused. The main thing is the exact implementation of the technological map in all its details.

Foam concrete blocks have a number of advantages due to which they are used in the construction of private houses, cottages and suburban buildings. Their weight is less than a brick, so a lightweight foundation can be planned, which will significantly reduce construction costs. In addition, the foam block has large dimensions, high rates of heat and sound insulation, is resistant to sudden temperature changes, is easy to process and is an economically profitable material.

But it is worth noting that all the listed qualities take place only in the case when the block laying technology is strictly observed. Therefore, before erecting a building with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with this process.

Masonry features

Before starting construction yourself, you need to choose the right foam blocks. For load-bearing walls, grades D600 - D1000 are used, and the size of the blocks is 20x30x60 cm.For internal walls and partitions, D100 - D400 are used, with parameters 10x30x60 cm.In a warm and temperate climate zone, foam blocks can be laid in one layer, but in cold regions it is advisable will apply a two-layer option. In this case, the outer layer is erected from high-strength foam concrete, and the second - from a porous material that acts as a heater.

With numerous positive characteristics, foam blocks are unstable to changes in vertical loads. This disadvantage is eliminated by installing reinforcing belts in the first row of blocks and between floors. It is made continuous and fits exactly around the perimeter of the building. Separately, it is necessary to reinforce window and door openings, as well as those zones that receive the main load from the lintels. The laying technology also depends on the type of foam blocks. They are cut, that is, a large slab is cut into blocks with special tools, and molded, when the mass of foam concrete is poured into containers. Products obtained by the first method are fastened with glue, but for the second option, only cement mortar is suitable.

Adhesive mixtures

Before starting work on the construction of walls with your own hands, you need to carefully check the horizontality of the foundation using a level, and only then put a layer of cement-sand mixture. This allows all possible surface irregularities to be smoothed out.

Such a solution can be bought ready-made or made on your own. To do this, you need to take 1 part of cement, 3 hours of sand and 0.5 hours of water. After mixing, the plasticizer is added in the amount indicated in the instructions on the package. When using a ready-made factory composition, you yourself should take into account that it is suitable for three hours. Therefore, you should not breed a lot at once.

According to the technology, the first row of foam blocks of any kind is laid only on this mixture. Further, it is possible to use special glue, provided that cut products are used. It has a number of advantages over cement-sand mortar:

1. The thickness of the joint is no more than 3 mm, which reduces the consumption of material for the walls and reduces the load on the foundation.

2. The use of glue eliminates the formation of cold bridges between the foam blocks.

3. In the seams, cracks, cracks do not form, mold microflora does not develop.

4. Simplicity and ease of use. The dry mixture is diluted with water in the proportion indicated in the instructions on the package. Then she is allowed to brew for ten minutes and mix thoroughly again, after which you can put the foam blocks.

In colder climates, frost-resistant tile adhesive is sometimes used. But the feasibility of its use is questioned by experts because of its high cost.

Step-by-step instruction

In order to properly lay walls from foam blocks with your own hands, you must follow a certain pattern.

1. Step one.

A cement-sand mortar is applied to the poured foundation. A waterproofing layer is mounted on it and again covered with the prepared mixture.

Now the first row of aerated concrete blocks is being laid. This process is carried out according to a certain scheme, which involves first removing the corners, and then gradually moving to the center of the wall. Once the row is fully laid, it should be checked for horizontal alignment. If necessary, the blocks are put in place using a rubber mallet. The excess solution protruding must be removed immediately.

2. Step two.

In the foam concrete blocks of the first row, two parallel grooves measuring 4x4 cm are cut from above at an equal distance from the center of the product. Metal rods with a cross-sectional diameter of 8 mm are inserted into them. Such an operation is performed in every fifth layer of foam blocks and between floors.

3. Step three.

To lay the second and subsequent rows of the wall, you first need to glue the lower foam concrete blocks and the ends of the products installed on top. Foam blocks must be very tightly fitted to each other in order to avoid the formation of voids in the seams. The construction adhesive is applied with a notched bucket trowel.

Common mistakes

When erecting walls from foam concrete, not only do-it-yourself laying of foam blocks is of great importance, but also the subsequent insulation and decoration of the building. The main mistake is to carry out finishing work immediately after the end of construction. This leads to shedding and cracking of the material, since the walls of foam blocks shrink for another six months. The same rule applies to the wiring of communications, which may suffer from deformation of the building structure.

After six months, you can start decorating the walls of foam concrete. However, there are some nuances here, which are often overlooked:

1. First you need to carry out internal work and only then proceed to external. This is due to the occurrence of vibrations from the construction tools used in this case, which are transmitted to the facade surfaces of the walls and can cause cracks in the finishing materials.

2. Moisture from putties, primers, wallpaper glue or paints is absorbed by the pores of the foam concrete and is discharged outside. It can also adversely affect the cladding of the building and cause the insulation to get wet.

3. The owner of the buildings himself should know that the wet and dry method is used for insulation. The first option involves gluing polystyrene foam plates to the walls, which do not allow moisture to pass through. This method has proven itself perfectly in the case of brick walls, so some builders, without hesitation, use it for foam blocks. However, here it is worth taking into account the previously described ability of foam concrete to absorb moisture generated in the room, with its subsequent removal to the outside. But it will not be able to pass through the layer of insulation and settle on the surface of the structure in the form of condensation, which will create favorable conditions for the development of pathogenic microorganisms and mold microflora.

Therefore, walls made of foam concrete should be insulated using ventilated systems or mineral wool, and only after interior finishing work.

Cost calculation

Before you start laying blocks, you should calculate their exact number in order to avoid unnecessary costs. To do this, you need to know:

1. The exact dimensions of the future premises, minus door and window openings.

2. Separately, it is worth considering the area of ​​internal partitions, since their construction will require smaller foam blocks, the price of which will be lower.

4. Also, the cost should include the cost of reinforcement, given that it is used in every 4-5 row of the wall.

5. A separate item of expenditure is the wages of builders. But here you can save a lot if you have the knowledge and skills on how to properly lay foam blocks.

Foam concrete blocks are in demand in private construction, they are appreciated for their high speed and ease of laying, low weight load and good insulating properties. The cost of work when contacting professionals varies from 1200 to 3000 rubles per 1 m3, in order to save money, it is better to do it yourself. The technology for assembling products is considered simple, but a number of rules are mandatory, it is important to familiarize yourself with them in advance.

The main requirements for working with this building material include:

• Laying on a stable monolithic base, reliably protected from moisture, at least 30-50 cm above the ground level.
• Reinforcement of rows with reinforcement - the first and every fourth.
• Laying an armored belt in the upper part along the entire perimeter of the bearing walls to bind the floor slab or Mauerlat of the roofing system.
• Exclusion of cold bridges: it is best to put on a thin layer of a special one, all jumpers and metal elements are insulated.
• Obligatory protection of structures made of foam concrete from moisture and steam.
• When erecting load-bearing walls, use blocks with the required strength grade (not lower than D400, preferably more).
• Verification of the certificate and geometric accuracy of products even before the purchase.

Differences between glue and cement masonry

The final characteristics of the structure being erected and the need for external insulation depend on the type of joint mortar. Two options are possible: laying on special adhesives or on a cement-sand composition. In the first case, ready-made dry mixes are used (Osnovit Selform, Praktik Bergauf, Aero, Ceresit CT 21 and many others) based on Portland cement, quartz sand, modifiers and polymer powders, diluted strictly according to the instructions. The advantage is the creation of a thin seam - within 1-3 mm, no more. This excludes the formation of cold bridges, with the correct choice of wall thickness, foam concrete blocks will not need insulation. Also, the advantages of using glue include the evenness of the rows, the ability to assemble products with your own hands, even in the absence of work experience.

The cement mortar itself is cheaper, but due to the inevitable increase in the thickness of the joints, its consumption increases and, as a result, the costs are not inferior to glue. The optimal proportions of PC M400 and sand are 1: 3 with a W / C ratio within 0.5. To improve mobility, it is recommended to introduce plasticizers (the cheapest is liquid soap). This option is chosen only in the case of poor geometry of the blocks, due to the different thermal conductivity coefficient of foam concrete and cement, bridges of cold and heat loss are inevitably formed.

Another reason for laying foam blocks on glue is an increase in the bearing capacity of the walls. The opinion that the greater the thickness of the seam, the more reliable the structure will turn out, is erroneous, such areas perceive loads worse and, in fact, are a weak link. It is also worth considering that when using a self-prepared cement mortar, even rows are obtained only from experienced bricklayers, and their services are expensive. The time spent on kneading the glue or CPR is about the same, but in terms of saving energy for preparing the components, the first type wins.

DIY step-by-step instructions for laying foam blocks

Before starting work, tools are prepared: a construction mixer and clean containers for spreading glue, a hacksaw for cutting, a rubber hammer, levels, a notched trowel, wall chasers, a planer and grater, brushes or a special hairdryer for removing dust. Then they adhere to the following scheme of actions:

1. Preparation of foam blocks for installation: inspection, if necessary, leveling with a fine grater and cleaning from dust, cutting to the required dimensions.
2. Waterproofing the upper edge of the foundation. First, 2-3 cm of cement mortar is applied, on top of it you need to put two layers of rolled materials with the longest possible service life. The width of the waterproofing layer must exceed the thickness of the future walls.
3. Laying of the first row of blocks - from the highest angle, exclusively on the cement composition. A stretched cord is used to achieve the ideal level and is carefully checked. The first row is necessarily strengthened - in the laid foam blocks, two grooves are drilled equidistant from the edge, into which the mortar and metal rods with a cross section of 8 mm are laid (when agreeing on the reinforcement scheme with specialists, you can put thinner rods, but not less than 5 mm).
4. Installation of subsequent rows - from the corners to the center, with bandaging of foam concrete blocks. The glue is applied with a notched trowel on the horizontal surface of already laid products and on the end of the placed ones. The foam blocks are slightly pressed against each other, if necessary, they are tapped in order to seal. The surplus is removed immediately, the same applies to the correction of offset foam blocks. Level deviations are checked on each row without exception.
5. Laying a monolithic reinforced belt along the entire perimeter of the bearing walls. There are two options: installation of formwork and pouring of concrete solution with simultaneous insulation of the edges or the use of special U-shaped blocks.

This guide is also suitable for the construction of partitions. In this case, the first row is tied to an even, clean and moisture-proof floor using reinforcement. Special beacons left in advance at the corners of the supporting structures help to correctly lay the walls of foam blocks inside the house. If it is necessary to bind a new partition, dowels are used, extending 20 cm deep into the walls already in use.

To simplify the process and improve the quality of the connection, it is recommended to slightly moisten the foam blocks. It is important to put them as tightly as possible; when the rows are deviated horizontally, the products are sanded with a plane. Construction dust must be removed after each treatment, it affects the reliability of the connection of adjacent blocks. Work is carried out mainly in the warm season, at an air temperature from +5 to +25 ° C.

Possible mistakes

Violations of block masonry technology include:

• Lack of masonry mortar in vertical joints and the appearance of voids between products. Such an error is observed when saving the glue spread on the walls, it leads to the accumulation and freezing of moisture inside the walls of foam concrete. As a result, the risk of destruction of the seam or the block itself increases.
• Lack of dressing or insufficient displacement of products in subsequent rows. The recommended minimum is a quarter of the length, ideally they move exactly half.
• Correction of foam blocks after glue hardening or CPR setting. Any changes should be carried out no later than 5-15 minutes, deviations from the level are checked on each row.
• Refusal of reinforcement.

Most of the mistakes are made during the finishing process; the owners' understandable desire to close the foam concrete from moisture as quickly as possible must be properly implemented. Blocks shrink within 3-6 months, earlier plastering leads to cracking. To exclude the accumulation of moisture in the foam blocks, they first carry out their interior decoration and only then proceed to the facade.

The gross violation is considered to be the closure of external walls with impermeable materials without organizing gaps; ventilated curtain systems or special plaster are best suited to protect cellular concrete grades.

The cost of laying foam blocks

The minimum price of 1 m3 of high-quality foam concrete suitable for the construction of load-bearing structures is 2500 rubles, the approximate consumption of glue per cube is 20 kg (about 150 rubles), and reinforcement is also added to the total cost of building materials when laying with their own hands.

Professional services cost no less than 1200 rubles for the installation of 1 m3, when erecting load-bearing walls, they reach 3000. The number of storeys, the type and size of foam concrete blocks, their geometric accuracy, and the overall complexity of the project affect the value of prices.

The specificity of foam concrete masonry is associated with some features of foam concrete. So, due to the relatively low strength of foam concrete, it is recommended to reinforce the masonry. For the same reason, an armored belt of concrete is cast under the ceiling over the masonry.

First row masonry

What to use for laying foam blocks - mortar or glue?

• Lack of cold bridges. The uniformity of the wall in terms of thermal insulation is the main plus of laying foam blocks on glue.
• Less labor intensity. The amount of glue to be mixed is several times less than the volume of solution required in a similar case.
• Ease of subsequent finishing. When a wall of foam blocks is laid on glue, it should turn out to be perfectly flat (otherwise, chase your mason in the neck), so finishing such a wall will cost several times cheaper. You don't need tons of dry mortars to level and plaster walls. The consumption of leveling plasters and putties will be minimal.

The basic rule in laying a wall of foam blocks: do not leave voids in the seams. To spread the glue, a notched bucket trowel is usually used. Both horizontal and vertical joints are completely filled with glue or mortar. If the laying is carried out in two rows (for example, blocks 200x300x600 mm per edge with a total wall thickness of 400 mm.), Then the inter-row vertical seams are also filled.
When laying foam blocks is carried out on a solution, it is advisable to moisten the blocks before laying. The proportions of the solution are classic - ordinary cement: building sand - 1: 4. However, options are possible with the introduction of special additives of plasticizers.

Reinforcement of walls from foam concrete blocks

Since the masonry mesh is made of wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm (with welded-on transverse ties with the same wire, which further increases the height of the laid mesh), it is problematic to use it when laying on glue. Solution: reinforce the masonry with reinforcement by cutting grooves for it. Because foam concrete is easy to process, it is not difficult. Cut the groove for reinforcement in the foam block masonry most quickly with a wall chaser, and in its absence with a grinder or a circular saw.

Floor slabs cannot be laid directly on foam blocks, because in this case, a point load can be created that exceeds the ultimate strength of foam concrete. In order to distribute the load from the floor evenly, a monolithic concrete armopoyas with a height of about 10-15-20 cm is cast over the wall of foam blocks. In the case of brick cladding, the height of the armopoyas is taken equal to the height of 2 rows of brickwork. Since the concrete armopoyas violates the thermal insulation of the wall, it must be additionally insulated.

In the middle latitudes of our country, a sufficient thickness of a wall made of foam blocks from the position of thermal insulation is 40 cm.In this case, an armored belt 30 cm wide is cast (this is more than enough to support the floor slab), and the remaining 10 cm are filled with insulation. Insulation is placed on the outside of the wall and covered with cladding. In some cases, a monolithic armored belt on top of foam block masonry can be replaced with cheaper brickwork made of solid bricks. For example, this is permissible when floors are planned on wooden beams.

The technology of laying walls from foam blocks involves overlapping window and door openings with special U-shaped blocks. U-blocks must be as wide as the wall thickness. Let's take the same average wall of 40 cm foam blocks. The walls of the U-block are 5 cm thick, leaving 30 cm of empty space. To cover a window opening with a width of 130 cm, it is enough to pour concrete into a reinforced lintel of 20 cm, leaving 10 cm for insulation. To cover wider openings, a special lintel calculation and another insulation scheme may be required.

The cost of laying foam blocks

• scope of work
• complexity (wall configuration, large or arched windows, etc.)
• professionalism and ambitions of the craftsmen
• financial interest of an intermediary (foreman, firm, etc.)
• the presence of competition in the market and the location of the object

Wall cladding made of foam blocks

The use of foam blocks in the construction of a country house opens up truly endless possibilities for further wall decoration. The fairly durable surface of the foam concrete block allows the use of any types of facade plasters and putties, finishing with wild stone and siding, ventilated facades and clinker tiles. The choice of material can be limited only by the imagination of the customer and his financial capabilities.

The wall foam block has recently been used quite often in work. Laying walls from a foam block is done much faster from bricks and you can do everything with your own hands.

Then the price of work will be much lower. Today, the technology of laying walls from foam blocks will be considered, as in the video in this article you can see everything clearly.

Preparing tools

The use of wall foam blocks is characterized by good strength, but at the same time they have the properties of brittle materials.

To work with them, you will need the following tool:

• For even and correct laying of foam blocks, you need a rubber hammer and a building level.
• To cut the foam block, you should use a special hacksaw and corners.
• In order to mix the glue correctly and with high quality, it is advisable to use an electric drill with a nozzle.
• A trowel for applying adhesive on the surface of the foam block.
• Electric milling cutter, grater, foam block planer, wall chaser.

It is not difficult to find such tools in hardware stores, of various quality and different manufacturers.

What solutions are used for laying foam blocks

The construction of walls from foam blocks is done with mortar. There are quite a few of them now. But if the most acceptable.

Attention: If you have a large area of ​​work, then you should not buy a ready-made mixture. If you do it yourself, it will turn out to be half the price.

So:

• Very often, the laying of walls from foam blocks is done on cement-sand mortars, in a ratio of 1: 3: 0.5. Where 0.5 is part of the plasticizer. This is mainly due to the unevenness of the edges of the blocks themselves, since it is not rational to use glue in such cases.
• Such a solution can be mixed by yourself or ordered at the factory. We can safely say that the factory ones are of higher quality, but they should be used up in the next three hours, and this is not always acceptable. Therefore, for the most part, such a solution is harvested on site in small batches, which is absolutely acceptable.
• When using such solutions, it should be remembered that they lead to an increase in the thickness of the seam, and this leads to an increase in heat loss.
• If the quality of the blocks allows, then it is better to use glue. The glue is very flexible, which makes it possible to make seams with a minimum thickness. This leads to an improvement in the quality of the masonry itself, which will lead to minimal costs in the process of finishing such a surface.
• In order for the adhesive mixture to be used, a certain amount of water is added to the dry mixture and stirred with a construction mixer. After that, the mixture is allowed to settle for 10 minutes and then mixed again, after which it is ready for use.
• When using high-quality blocks and high-quality glue, seams are obtained with a thickness of no more than 3 mm, which improves the quality indicators of the entire structure.
• The advantages of ready-made adhesive mixtures are obvious: it will take much less than a cement-sand mortar, and you won't have to mix so much.
• A frost-resistant tile adhesive is commercially available and is sometimes used for laying aerated concrete blocks. As practice shows, it is not so much better than usual in order to pay extra money.

Wall masonry technology using foam blocks.

Attention: If you use foam blocks for external walls, then you should give preference to cement compositions, but never use gypsum.

How is the laying of the first row

Do-it-yourself wall erection from foam blocks begins with the installation of the first row. It must be done perfectly. After all, the whole plane will already go from him.

Attention: The dimensions of foam blocks for internal walls allow you to make it narrower. And therefore, calculate everything at once. It's not just its size here. With a decrease in width, the weight of the wall foam blocks and the load on the load-bearing walls are significantly reduced.

So:

• Before starting laying foam blocks, it is advisable to properly prepare the foundation, as well as the blocks themselves. For this, the blocks are cleaned of dust, the foundation is checked for evenness and horizontality.
• Foam blocks must be reliably protected from moisture, and for this, a waterproofing layer is laid on top of the foundation. Then a layer of cement-sand mortar is applied on top of the waterproofing, since the first row is laid only on such a solution.
• The laying of foam blocks begins at the corner, where they are carefully set using a building level, and then proceed to laying the gaps between the corners.
• All laid blocks of the first row should be checked for horizontal and vertical position using a level. If any block does not fall into place, then it must be installed using force. To do this, you can knock on the block with a rubber hammer.
• After laying the first row, you should go through and remove all irregularities with a float.

Installation of the next rows of foam blocks on the solution

All subsequent rows, like the first, are laid on a cement-sand mortar:

• Masonry technology requires that the seams are one hundred percent filled, while the position of the block should be controlled using a building level.
• To increase the effectiveness of the walls of foam blocks, they are laid in two rows, with overlapping vertical seams.
• To lay floor slabs around the perimeter of the masonry, an armored belt is formed with a height of 10-20 cm for even distribution of the load.
• Insulation is laid on the outer sides of the foam block structure, after which it is closed with facing material.
• Concrete lintels are poured over door and window openings using U-blocks.
• If the laying is carried out using such a solution, then it is advisable to water them, and after the end of the work, cover them with plastic wrap.

How to put foam block walls on glue

When using glue, the first row is still laid out on the solution, and the next on the glue. In this case, it is obligatory to bandage the blocks, at least up to 12 cm. To apply the glue, a notched trowel is used. The adhesive layer to be applied should not exceed 3 mm.

• Applying the building level, each installed foam block is checked and adjusted.
• To simplify the masonry process, you can use the order. To do this, you can take a flat wooden lath with a section of 5x5 mm or 7x5 mm and a length of 2m in redistribution. It is also possible to use a metal ordering made of a 5x5 mm square profile.
• Laying begins at the corners, after careful installation and checking for evenness of the blocks. Then a rope is pulled between the corner blocks, which will serve as a beacon for laying the space between the corners.

Attention: After laying out each subsequent row, the rope is lifted one row up, and the laying is done in the same way.

• To overlap, an armored belt should be formed, as in the previous case.
• Concrete lintels of door and window openings are poured in the same way.

Partitions in the house are laid out in the same way as the walls, but foam blocks 10-15 cm thick are used for partitions:

• Partitions can be laid out on an already mounted floor or on a foundation, which is poured along with the main foundation. As a rule, the foundation is also poured under the partitions in order to evenly distribute the load.
• The outer blocks are connected to the load-bearing walls using reinforcing inserts connecting the reinforcement of the load-bearing walls and walls of the partitions.
• In this case, the reinforcement at the joints has its continuation when reinforcing the masonry of the partitions. Recesses for the reinforcement are cut out on the corresponding rows, the recesses are filled with glue, and the reinforcement is pressed into the glue.
• A manual wall chaser can be used to separate the electrical wiring, and an electromill can be used to attach the undercuts and junction boxes. Wiring on a gypsum block (foam block) surface is carried out with an ordinary two-core (three-core) noodle-type wire that does not have double insulation. This is due to the fact that the foam block is a non-flammable material. After laying the wires in the grooves, they can be covered with glue or plaster putty.
• The places where the reinforcing rods will be laid must be determined in advance, at the design stage.
• Reinforcement of the foam block starts from the first row and is repeated every 3-5 rows.
• When pouring an armored belt and ceilings over door and window openings, reinforcement should also be made using ready-made, electrically welded, reinforcement frames.
• The frame of the armored belt should not be in the form of separate fragments, but be completely welded or tied with a knitting wire.
• Surfaces lined with foam concrete blocks need insulation and cladding.
• When carrying out facing work, it is not recommended to use dowels-nails. You can drill such surfaces, but without using the perforation function. For reliable fastening, it is advisable to use plastic dowels with a length of at least 100 mm.
• During laying, you should immediately remove the excess solution so that no sagging is formed. They will further interfere with finishing work.
• Before applying various types of putties, foam concrete surfaces should be primed with a deeply penetrating primer.

It is not difficult and quick to lay the wall foam block. You just need to first make a calculation of the walls made of foam blocks in order to avoid unnecessary waste. You can do everything yourself and the instructions will help you with this.