How to bend a profile pipe with your own hands: technologies and devices for bending. How to bend a profile pipe with your own hands at home how to bend a profile for drywall

7259 0 0

How to bend drywall in a fit of bold design solutions: 3 levels of cool

Have you ever wondered how to bend drywall at home? Personally, I was interested in the answer to it from the very first acquaintance with such interesting material. After all, in this way you can get away from the dull and boring rectangular shapes, reviving the interior with more smooth lines that are more pleasing to the eye. And I found several solutions to this problem at once, which differ in the complexity and level of steepness of the bend being made. They will be discussed further.

Getting started

Gypsum plasterboard is a gypsum board covered with cardboard sheets on both sides. Cardboard in any state has a high elasticity, while gypsum changes depending on its moisture level. That is, the gypsum board can be bent, despite its apparent strength, but this must be done correctly in order to avoid the appearance of a fracture.

But, if you do not spoil the drywall with your own hands, then you can safely count on the appearance of arches, curly, columns and other similar masterpieces of design art in your apartment or private house.

Before bending drywall, it is necessary to determine the steepness of the bend being created, since the choice of technology for implementing the plan will depend on this.

Coolness level # 1: bending radius - 1000-2750 mm

How to bend drywall in a semicircle whose radius exceeds one meter? Very simple: use the so-called "dry" method, which is the most simple to implement and looks like this:

1. First thing we select the thickness of the drywall sheet, since it is possible to bend drywall, which has an impressive thickness, in the described way only up to a certain limit:

If you do not have time to use more complex technologies for folding drywall sheets, but you can afford to spend a little more money on the material itself, then opt for arched samples. Their price is slightly higher, but the thickness is only 6.5 mm, and inside the gypsum core itself there is a reinforcing mesh that prevents the appearance of a break.

1. Then the instruction branches again and offers two options, I've tried both:

• The first is for the very lazy, and it consists in the fact that the section is simply slowly and carefully attached with self-tapping screws to a pre-bent and installed profile... In this case, the step between the fasteners must be observed no more than 50 mm;

In no case do not try to bend the gypsum board across, and not along, as you will simply break it with such treatment.

• The second will require more preparatory work, consisting in making a special template... But then the bending process itself is then easier and safer for the material. You can familiarize yourself with the intricacies of creating such a device in the following diagram. I will only note that the radius of the structure should be less than the radius of the future semicircle, and the width should be less than the bent sheet:

But how to bend drywall in a semicircle using a ready-made template? It is enough to gently bend it over the device and fix it in this position until the sheet takes the desired shape.

Coolness level # 2: bending radius - 500-1000 mm

Now let's figure out how to bend drywall for an arch with a radius of less than one meter, using the so-called "wet" method. I like it most of all, as it allows you to create stunning figures without crippling the leaf itself with "fanaticism", which I will talk about in the description of the next more radical method.

So let's get started:

1. We prepare everything you need:

The roller must be chosen in such a way that its needles are not longer than half the thickness of the sheet you are bent and not shorter than one third of it. In the first case, you can simply destroy the entire product, and in the second, you may not get the desired effect.

1. We process with a needle roller that side of the plasterboard section, which will subsequently shrink. In this case, the needles perform two functions at once:

• Weaken the strength of the cardboard "wrapper";
• Create water access to the plasterboard core;

Instead of such a specific tool, you can use an awl, making holes every 10-15 mm. It will take more time and you will have to control the depth of penetration with your own hands, but it will turn out to save a little the family budget.

1. Now with a brush, roller or sponge wet the punctured area with water within 10-15 minutes. Depending on the thickness of the sheet, the process may need to be repeated several times. Just be sure to make sure that the liquid does not get on the other side, as this will lead to the destruction of the sample.

What happens then? Why such difficulties? The fact is that gypsum tends to become elastic and pliable when moistened, which absolutely does not prevent it from completely restoring all its previous technical characteristics after drying;

1. We carefully bend the object and fasten it to the prepared place using self-tapping screws... You can also use a special template as in the previous case;

1. After about a day, the plasterboard sheet becomes dry and durable again, but in a new shape.

It is noteworthy that the described procedure is at the same time an answer to the question: "How to straighten drywall?" Here, too, you can accurately perforate the convex side this time, moisten it and carefully give the sheet its original shape.

Coolness level # 3: bending radius - 150-500 mm

How to bend drywall into a completely indecent squiggle, the radius of which will not exceed half a meter, or even decrease to 15 cm altogether? A very radical approach, involving the evisceration of an object, will help here:

1. We take a sharp knife and from the back of the sheet we apply transverse cuts to the depth of the facing cardboard every 30-50 mm... The smaller the radius of the future arch, the shorter the step. As a result, you have an “unfortunate victim” in your hands, who somehow makes up another whole only thanks to the remaining cardboard layer;

Be extremely careful in the process of making incisions so as not to damage the face of the gypsum board, since if you do this, you can already throw it out and take on a new "victim".

1. Now, carefully, so as not to completely ruin the drywall sheet, we fasten it to the prepared place with self-tapping screws starting in the middle and gradually working towards the edges. At the same time, the fasteners must hold each cut fragment, which leads to a large consumption of screws;

1. Thoroughly putty all the cracks and slots.

You can also apply a template here, and it is quite justified. The fact is that by fixing the cut sheet immediately on the frame, you will no longer be able to fully properly seal the grooves created in it. But if you first put it on a device made in advance, then all damage can be repaired, for example, with the well-proven Knauf Uniflot putty, which, once frozen, will turn the object back into a solid product.

Conclusion

Now you know how to bend drywall even in the arch, even in the "ram's horn". The most important thing in all the methods I have described is careful handling of the drywall sheet itself, since it can be broken during dry bending, spoiled during wet punching, and completely destroyed with a radical approach with the creation of cuts.

The video in this article will provide you with additional information. If you have any questions on the stated topic, then ask them in the comments.

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

When installing any structure made of plasterboard, a base is needed - a frame on which the gypsum board sheets are attached. This frame is assembled using technology from special products - profiles. About what a profile for drywall can be, its types and sizes, scope - in this article.

Materials: what are the profiles for gypsum boards made of?

Any kind of drywall profile is made of steel and aluminum. Steel (ordinary or galvanized) are more common, since aluminum, although they have excellent characteristics, are very expensive.

Steel can be ordinary or with a protective layer - galvanized. Conventional ones - made of black steel - have a lower cost and are suitable for premises with normal operating conditions. With their help, they make a suspended ceiling in living rooms, corridors. In rooms with high humidity - bathrooms, kitchens, etc. - it is better to use galvanized steel or aluminum.

Types and sizes of profiles for drywall

In any place that sells materials for gypsum board, there are profiles of different types and sizes. To choose and not be mistaken, you need to know how they differ.

To create wireframes

There is a profile for drywall of the following types:

• Guide. It is designated as PN (UD) (interpretation - guide profile). U-shaped in section, with smooth side walls. It is used as a support base for uprights and lintels. It is fastened along the perimeter of the structure, then all other elements of the system are installed in it. Dimensions:
  
• Rack. It is designated PS (CD) - rack-mount profile. It is inserted into the guides, the gypsum board is attached to it. Accordingly, it bears the main load and must have high rigidity. It has a U-shaped structure with additional shelves and stiffening ribs, which give it greater rigidity. Dimensions:
  
• Ceiling. It is designated PP and PPN. Accordingly - the guide and the supporting ceiling profile. The ceiling guide has a cross-section in the form of the letter "P", has a smaller cross-section than the wall one. Ceiling bearing profile - has shelves and stiffeners, but differs in shelves of lower height. A lower height, in order to "take away" less heights from the room and that the ceiling plasterboard is thinner, creates less stress on the frame.
  
• Arched. It has a complex structure - with cuts on the side edges for increased flexibility. Required to create curved surfaces.

These are all types of gypsum board profiles that are used for the construction of the frame. The "frame" is assembled from the PN guides, the stands from the PS are inserted into them, which are then connected by jumpers (usually from the PN) - for greater rigidity of the structure.

Additional profiles and accessories

There are several types of additional profiles that are used in finishing works, when creating a suspended frame for the ceiling, for attaching post profiles to walls, etc.

• Angular. In section, there is a right angle with a slightly protruding central part. It is used to decorate the corners of plasterboard structures. There are several types:
  
• Perforated hangers. It is a 125 * 60 mm tape fastener. It is divided into three parts: the middle one is used to fix the suspension to the ceiling / wall, the outer ones are perforated, bent at 90 °, profiles are attached to them.

  

• Anchor hangers for PP (ceiling profiles). There are several types. Used when installing false ceilings. A distinctive feature is that it is easy to adjust the height, which is necessary when setting the plane of the ceiling.

  

  Anchor suspension - for easy adjustment of the false ceiling height

• One-level and two-level connector for PP (crab). Plate with fixing elements for fastening crossing profiles. Used when constructing frames for suspended ceilings.

  

  Connectors - sibling and duplex

• Extension of profiles. Small-sized staple (110 * 58 mm) for splicing two pieces of the same type and size.

Most of these devices can be dispensed with. For example, two profiles are spliced ​​using a piece of a guide profile of a suitable size. It is inserted inside, squeezed with pliers on the shelves, screwed with self-tapping screws. The connection turns out to be more rigid than with special devices.

When creating a frame located along the wall, it is not fastened with perforated suspensions, but with boots - sections of profiles bent in the shape of the letter "L" (called "boots" - according to their characteristic shape).

Two ways of fixing the rack profiles to the wall - using a perforated suspension and a piece of profile

This is not so much a way to save money, but an opportunity to get a more rigid fastening, since perforated suspensions were originally developed for suspended ceilings and the load from wall drywall, and even laid in two rows, is difficult to withstand.

Profile length

Each type of drywall profile may differ in length. Standard lengths are 2.4 and 2.8 meters. but there are up to 4 m.

Should you look for long profiles? It doesn't make much sense. Unless the assembly of the frame will speed up a little. The profiles under the gypsum plasterboard are perfectly spliced, while the strength of the structure does not suffer. Only when assembling the frame should it be done so that the joints on adjacent racks are not at the same level. Usually the joints are made alternately at the top, then at the bottom.

How to choose a profile for gypsum board

In a more or less large hardware store or even on the market there are profiles for drywall of the same type and length, but with a significant difference in price. The cost can differ twice, and sometimes even more. Moreover, the most expensive are usually Knauf, the cheapest are unnamed China, the middle range is domestic producers.

Metal thickness

The difference will become clear as soon as you pick up the profile. Some are strong, rigid, made of steel with a thickness of 0.5 mm, 0.55 mm, 0.6 mm and more. Others are made of such thin metal that they change their geometry even if the profile is lifted by one edge.

With this parameter, everything is more or less simple and understandable. The thicker the metal, the stronger and tougher the profile, but the price is also higher. It is optimal for creating partitions with a standard wall height to take profiles with a metal thickness of 0.5 or 0.55 mm. If possible, you can take 0.6 mm.

The dimensions are standard, but the weight of the same profile may be different - due to the different thickness of the metal from which it was made

It makes sense to take a large metal thickness only if the height of the partition is large - the load will be more significant and additional strength will not interfere. But in this case, you need to look at what will be cheaper - a profile for drywall made of thicker metal or more often installed racks and crossbars. Just keep in mind that racks are usually installed with a step of 60 cm - so that the joint of the gypsum board sheets falls in the middle of one of the rack profiles. When decreasing the step, it is required to achieve the same - the joint of drywall sheets should not hang in the air. So it will be possible to put them only after 40 cm. So the seam will also fall on the profile. But this is too many racks and is unlikely to be cheaper. In general, you will count.

Manufacturer's choice

Choosing a manufacturer of drywall guides is both simple and difficult at the same time. All experts unanimously claim that Knauf is the best. They always correspond to the declared parameters, have an ideal geometry: the racks fit perfectly into the guides, do not dangle or burst them. In general, working with Knauf drywall profiles is easy, simple, the work progresses quickly. But, these are just the most expensive of the entire range. Despite this, the advice is this: if you have no experience with drywall - better buy Knauf.

There are several Russian firms in the middle price range. These are Giprok (Giprok) and Metalist. There are also little-known regional campaigns. How lucky you are. Trust your feelings and feedback. It is not always possible to be guided by the words of sellers. Domestic manufacturers have good batches, there are unsuccessful ones. In most cases, there is such a problem as a mismatch in the sizes of the rack-mountable substations and the guiding PN profiles. The posts must fit exactly inside the rail. For this, with the declared width, for example, 50 mm, the actual one should be 1.5 mm less. Problems arise with the accuracy of observing this difference. In addition, the declared metal thickness must be checked (with a micrometer). In general, it will be possible to save money, but you will spend a lot of your nerves and time.

Giprok has a profile with a corrugated surface. All sides of the profiles - both the back and the shelves - have extruded "pimples". They increase the rigidity of the profile. This is indeed the case - the design is more rigid. But the connection of racks and guides turns out to be more awkward - due to the mismatch of the "pimples", they do not attract closely like smooth metal walls. There is a second point - structures made of such profiles squeak more. With all this, such profiles cost a little less than Knauf, but it is more difficult to work with them. In general, it's up to you.

How to count the number of profiles

Knowing what type and type are profiles for drywall, their size is not enough. It is necessary to calculate the amount of each species. It will be easier to count if you draw a plan of the frame on a piece of paper, sign the names of the profiles, put down the dimensions. It will not take much time, but it will help you to more accurately determine the quantity.

Calculating the number of guides for one wall

If the walls are very uneven, you can level them with drywall. A parallel wall is being built, but set strictly in level. In this case, the calculation of the number of profiles for drywall will be as follows:

If all walls in the room are sheathed with plasterboard, a similar calculation is carried out for each wall, then the results are summed up.

Number of plasterboard profiles for false ceilings - PP and PNP

The calculation here is a little simpler: the frame is assembled "in a cage", so it is easier to calculate it. The rest of the approach is the same as described above. So we consider:

In total, for a suspended ceiling in a room measuring 3 * 4 meters, you will need 14 m + 20 m = 34 m of the PP profile, 21 meters of the PNP profile.

The greenhouse frame with a square or rectangular cross-section attracts with its reliability and durability. A very strong metal structure allows maximum light to pass through, because its racks, supports, ties are much thinner than those of wooden rivals. The metal is inferior in manufacturability. Without knowing the nuances, it is difficult to make an arched arc or frame for a door from a straight blank. Because of these complications with a metal base, it is in vain that they prefer to buy "green houses". However, if you really understand how to bend a profile pipe for a greenhouse, you can build an inexpensive arched structure with your own hands at low cost.

The essence and problems of bending of profile pipe-rolling

The bending of metal products, regardless of the cross-sectional shape, consists in giving them a partial or full smoothly curved configuration. One of the common locksmithing procedures is performed either under pressure alone or under pressure in combination with heating the bent section. At this time, compressive forces from the inner side of the workpiece and tensile forces along the outer wall act simultaneously on the machined part of the hollow metal workpiece. Complications are that:

• the material in the process of changing the shape may lose the coaxiality of the segments, i.e. parts of the bent workpiece will not be located in a single plane;
• the stretched outer wall in the bending section may not withstand the impact and it is corny to burst;
• the compressible inner wall may, instead of evenly contracting, fold into corrugation-like folds.

Without knowing the intricacies of profile bending, there is a risk of simply crushing the product, ruining the workpiece. But recklessness is not our way! Moreover, if it is accompanied by material losses. For the glory of rational economy, we will take into account all the vagaries of the profile and characteristics of the "iron" material. Let's not forget about the dimensions of the section, the thickness of the walls of the profile pipe, the required bending radius and the elasticity of the steel alloy. Focusing on the specified parameters, we will choose the correct technological path - it is also a bending method.

Why do I need to know the profile characteristics?

Profile pipe-rolling differs from the standard round version in the shape of the section, which can be square, oval, rectangular or flat-oval. According to the regulations of GOST R under the number 54157-2010, the round product is also included in the list of profile products. However, in greenhouse construction, products with a square and rectangular cross-section are most often used, for example, profile pipes 40x20 mm, because it is easier to attach a coating to their even flat walls.

For various national economic needs, products are produced in a wide range of sizes. It differs in configuration and cross-sectional area and, naturally, in wall thickness. The set of sizes determines the plastic possibilities. In professional language, they are called the minimum permissible radius of curvature. So, before you know how to make a workpiece for the frame, you need to find out what the smallest radius of flat round deformation the workpiece can "survive" without damage.

To determine the minimum allowable bend radius of a square or rectangular profile, we need the height h, because:

• products with a profile height of up to 20 mm will be bent without passing into the category of unsuitable marriage, if the bending is performed on a section with a length of 2.5 × h or more;
• rolled pipes with a profile height of over 20 mm will withstand deformation without loss in a section with a length of 3.5 × h and more.

The indicated limits are necessary for those who conceived to make racks, shelves and frames for vents or doors. The wall thickness also makes adjustments to the area of ​​limitations. Wide pipes with thin walls up to 2 mm thick are generally not recommended to bend. Better to use welding.

Home craftsmen, who decide to make arcs for, need to take into account that the products used in everyday life from ordinary carbon or low-alloy steel alloys, after applying forces to them, tend to slightly "spring". They seem to be trying to return to their previous state. Therefore, after a novice locksmith with his own hands completes the bending of all arcs, he will have to repeat the processing and re-fit the arches according to the template. It is desirable to initially take into account the value of the plastic moment of resistance Wp. It is usually indicated in the documents of the building material sold. The smaller the moment, the less fiddling with fitting.

Bending methods and their features

Profile pipe-rolling is bent both in cold and hot condition. Heating with a gas burner will noticeably increase the ductility. However, a material of small cross-section bends excellently without unnecessary temperature effects, because thin pipes are quite plastic and more easily amenable to the force applied to them.

There are no precise guidelines for using heat for bending. The standards indicate only the dimensions of the round bars, according to which the flame must be exposed to the treated area at Ø 100 mm or more. With square and rectangular shapes, everything happens a little differently. Based on the experience of craftsmen:

• at a profile height of up to 10 mm, the workpieces are unambiguously cold-bent;
• with a profile height of 40 mm or more, pipes are bent with heating.

How simpler and easier it is to bend a profile with a height in the range from 10 to 40 mm at home, the performer will have to decide on his own. If there is a profile bending in the arsenal of the master, with its help you can create an arched rounding without heating. There is no apparatus, it is better to test your strength in advance. To do this, you need to clamp one end of the material in a vice. On the other end, put on a pipe larger than the profile height, and pull on the "shoulder" enlarged in this way. If it works out, there is no point in heating metal products.

Option # 1 - bending with heating

We will deform the non-yielding material by the hot method, having previously filled it with sand. So the quality of processing will increase, and the uniformity of the fold will be ensured. Let's stock up on tarpaulin mittens for hot work and start:

• from scraps of timber or logs, we will make two pyramidal plugs, the length of which should be 10 times the width of the base. The base area of ​​each homemade plug should be almost 2 times larger than the square or rectangular hole that it has to plug;
• let's try how the plugs will "sit", then on one of them we will select the longitudinal grooves on the four sides. They are needed to release the gas that accumulates when the filler is heated;
• pre-anneal the workpiece in the area of ​​the future fold;
• let's prepare the filler. As it we will take clean building sand of medium grain size. In the absence of bulk building materials, we will use the sand from the children's sandbox. First we sift it through a sieve with meshes of 2 or 2.5 mm to remove gravel and gobies from the packing. Large inclusions on the pipe surface can form unnecessary relief. Then we “pass” the sifted mass again, but this time through a fine sieve with 0.7mm meshes, so that dusty particles do not sinter when heated. All screenings, as well as the filler at the end of the actions, will be returned to the sandbox;
• calcine the filler at a temperature of 150 ° C;
• we will hammer in one end with a wooden stopper, on which there are no channels for exhausting gases. Install a funnel at the other end. Depending on the size, we will install the workpiece at an angle or perpendicular to the ground. We will pour the filler through the funnel in portions. Periodically tap on the walls of the product from bottom to top with a wooden or rubber mallet so that the sand is compacted. A dull sound will be a signal of sufficient compaction;
• close the filled blank with a second plug;
• mark the heating section on the workpiece with chalk;
• we fix the workpiece either in a vice with a template, or in a clamp. Install the material with the welded seam so that the welded joint is on the side. It is undesirable to stretch or squeeze along the seam;
• heat the marked area red hot, and carefully give the workpiece the required shape. We bend in one step with a forward, unsharp movement in a strictly horizontal or vertical plane;
• after cooling down, compare the result with the template. If everything is in order, knock out or burn out the corks and pour out the sand.

The described method is good for the formation of single corner bends, because it is strongly not recommended to heat pipes several times. Metal loses strength from repeated thermal shock. However, when creating a rounded arch, repeated heating is inevitable. After all, it is unrealistic to do the work in one go, and chilled to a light cherry hue, i.e. up to 800 ° C, the workpiece can simply burst.

Option # 2 - cold method

Cold plastic deformation of profiled steel is carried out with or without filler. Material with a profile height of up to 10 mm does not require filling. A thicker pipe is best filled with sand or rosin. An alternative to the sand filler will be a tightly wound spring, the dimensions of which will allow it to be tightly installed in the cavity at the processing site. The spring washer will prevent a sharp change in the profile section at the bend points.

You can bend "cold" at home:

• manually using the simplest devices such as bending plates, vice and mandrel;
• with the use of a mobile profile bender - an improved analogue of a manual pipe bender. The profile bending device differs from the device for bending round pipes only by the shape of the working roller recess;
• by rolling on a homemade or factory roll forming machine, which can be made by hand or purchased ready-made.

It is more reasonable and profitable to rent technical means of mechanization of bending if they are needed for a one-time construction of a greenhouse. If, in the future, the construction of green houses for relatives and neighbors or the construction of a beautiful metal fence, for example, there is a reason to acquire your own bending machine.

Bending devices and machines

In the family of devices and units for bending there are representatives of varying degrees of technical complexity. To begin with, consider the means for those who are puzzled by the question of how and by what means it is possible to bend a profile pipe without the use of special equipment. Then we move on to homemade rolling plants.

Variants of the simplest devices

The use of elementary "helpers" for cold deformation is regulated by the size of the material:

• thin rolled pipes with a profile height of up to 10 mm are bent using a horizontal plate with holes. Metal pins are rigidly installed in the holes, which play the role of stops. Bend the product by placing it between the stops installed in the holes according to the bending radius. They start from the middle of the workpiece and gradually move towards the edges. The disadvantages of the method are the application of considerable muscular efforts and rather low deformation accuracy;
• pipes with a profile height of up to 25 mm are bent using roller devices operating on the principle of the Volnov machine. The metal workpiece is firmly fixed in a vice, and a physical force is applied to the workpiece through a roller. The bending is performed more efficiently and more uniformly than in the previous case. But from the performer, by analogy, remarkable efforts will be required.

To form a bend with a large radius of curvature, such as arcs for an arched frame, fixed rounded templates with clamps are used to fix the workpiece. These devices belong to the category of plane-parallel plates. The workpiece is forced into a groove, the dimensions of which are equal to the dimensions of the pipe. Manually bent by means of a mandrel, the pipe takes the shape of a predetermined contour.

Upgraded bending plate

If a home locksmith is not deprived of physical strength, a simple tool for a rather laborious deformation of a profile pipe will come in handy for his own needs. It can be made in the form of a panel attached with clamps to the work table or workbench. In the case shown in the photo, the bending plate is welded to a metal pedestal, but it is screwed with four bolts to the concrete floor of the workshop. To remove the device at the end of the work, it will be enough to unscrew the bolts. After dismantling, no fastening pins remain or rise above the floor surface, which means that nothing will interfere with movement and create traumatic threats.

The principle of manufacturing the working plane is extremely simple:

• The bending plate is a panel cut from thick sheet iron.
• The panel is welded to a profile pipe, installed according to telescopic rules in a pedestal post.
• In the working plane, two holes were drilled for the bolts, which are stops.
• The bending radius is adjusted by installing a suitable size nozzle on one of the bolts.
• In order to maintain the alignment of the segments adjacent to the bend, a metal plate is installed above the workpiece, fixed with bolts.

The pedestal is multifunctional. Its owner has the opportunity to use it as a miniature workbench for performing an impressive number of plumbing operations.

Mandrel for bending the profile pipe

The method is suitable for products with a wall height of up to 25mm. The foreman will need a large workbench and a significant amount of free space around the working area. One edge of the workbench is punched with frequently spaced holes for fixing the mandrel and for choosing the optimal position of the part holding the pipe. The template for the impending plastic deformation is cut from thick plywood. True, the plywood mandrel is only suitable for one-time bending procedures. If there is a lot of bending work to be done, it is better to weld the mandrels from a steel corner.

Using the manual profiler

Significant volumes of deformation work require mechanization. Mass production of curved parts will take away too much health from the performer. To facilitate bending, it is advisable to make a machine according to the drawing. They are used mainly for working with large-sized workpieces. The main working bodies of the hand-held unit are three rolls, two of which are fixed motionless. Changing the position of the third movable roll determines the bending angle.

If the above methods are not acceptable, then the future owner of the greenhouse has two options - renting a manual installation or ordering the manufacture of rounded parts. The process of deformation of the workpiece was demonstrated by the video: how it is easier to bend a profile pipe - by repeated rolling or physical impact, it is up to the performer to decide.

When working manually, it is important to follow the rules for bending shaped pipes and not make sudden movements. It is necessary to monitor the uniformity of deformation on the outside and inside of the rolled product. However, you should not be too upset about the small folds on the inner surface of the fold: they can be corrected with hammer blows. Before starting work, it is necessary to make templates from wire, chipboard or gypsum board for verification and obtaining a result corresponding to the project.

At one time, the GKL revolutionized the interior decoration of premises, greatly simplifying the work and making it easier. Some, when they see intricate figures on the ceiling or in the partitions, ask the question: "Is there a machine for bending drywall profiles?"

Such a device does not exist in nature, but, nevertheless, sheets and guides are successfully bent and the most intricate elements are obtained from them.

Plasterboard figures

How to bend a metal profile

• If you want to understand how to bend drywall with your own hands, then first of all you need to learn how to bend metal profiles on which circles and waves from gypsum boards will be mounted.
  First of all, it should be noted that for the figures in the frames, two types of guides are mainly used, these are UD and UW, where the sides are not profiled, and they are easy enough to cut.
  But this does not mean at all that the CD or CW type cannot be used for this purpose - in practice it is quite possible, it is just more complicated technically.

• So how do you bend a metal L-shaped carrier to make a circle or a wavy line out of it? Yes, it is very simple and there is even an unwritten instruction on this matter - you need to trim the shelves from both sides to the very bottom.
  The cuts themselves must be at the same distance so that the bend is smooth, without sharp drops.

• Suppose you need to bend a circle with a diameter of no more than one meter or a narrow arch with a sharp bend (see also), which means that the incisions will be more frequent and in this situation 5 cm is quite acceptable.
  The slots must be made strictly opposite each other and monitor the uniformity of the step. You can get additional information on this issue by watching the video clip on this page.

Advice. The profile does not always bend with the sole inward, sometimes it is necessary for it to be outside, then cut each petal into a cone so that they do not pile up on top of each other.
And if you need a bend to the side, then the side on the convex side and the sole are cut, as in the photo above.

Wet bending drywall

• Let's look at how to bend drywall with a wet method, that is, by soaking it with rags soaked in water.
  To do this, you need to cut off the panel of the required size and process it with a spiked roller from the intended convex side.
• GCR pierced with thorns is covered with wet rags on both sides and left overnight. After that, the material can bend around the figures on.
  But this method takes a lot of time and from this, of course, the price of the issue increases, because the master spends the whole day on the process instead of several hours.

Dry bending drywall

• Pay attention to the photo above, namely, on the lower tiers of the ceiling - the vertical stripes during installation were neither soaked nor notched, since it is possible to bend drywall of such a width and into such a large circle without any preparation.
  Tighter bends require special processing when, under tension, the paper on the material will burst from the convex side.

• Any gypsum board (wall, moisture resistant, ceiling, fire resistant) can be formed in the same way as bending a profile for drywall, that is, making cuts in the zone of greatest resistance.
  For this, the desired piece is cut out and uniform cuts are made from the side of the assumed bulge and the steeper the bend, the smaller the step of the cut strips will be.
• The distance for the cuts on the paper should be determined by analogy with the profile on which the figure will be mounted.
  If the UW or UD shelves turned out to be 7 cm petals, then the drywall should be cut in the same step. But this does not mean at all that the whole and broken parts of two materials should coincide with each other, especially when it comes to frequent cutting.

Advice. If you need to bend the plasterboard strip in order to sew up the lower horizontal part of the arch, then you should not mount it entirely. It is very convenient to mount the gypsum board in such cases in pieces of 30-40 cm.

Dry bending drywall without seams

• And how to bend the drywall so that the cuts are inside, and the convex side is smooth? If you need a figure made in this way, then you will spend a little more time on it than on a regular cropping, but only a little.
• The marking occurs in exactly the same way as in the usual section, but the sludge, that is, the body of the sheet (filler between the paper) will not allow the strip to bend in the desired direction, but only in the opposite direction. Therefore, we need to use the same cone method as when bending into the metal profile.
  

A popular building material, drywall is used to create perfectly flat surfaces. But now, from high-quality plasterboard, they began to make curved design structures - arches, multi-level ceilings, niches. You can create such decor components yourself, but first, let's figure out how to bend the drywall profile so that the desired shape comes out. In addition, you need to learn how to make a strong metal frame to secure the curved part.

For what purposes do you need to bend a plasterboard profile?

Drywall (GKL) is used to create various curly elements. Modern installation of suspended ceilings is not complete without the use of this material. When creating a ceiling design, the following elements are used:

• Circles of various diameters
• Regular squares or rectangles
• Waves, steps, sun and many other elements

In addition, it will be necessary to bend the profile in the following cases:

• If a high arch is formed, the profile can be bent into an arc
• When the ceiling is formed as a single composition with the transition of individual curly components to the walls
• When installing a niche with a curved element
• When creating an arched partition with a complex bend

Data-lazy-type = "image" data-src = "https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/6_3..jpg 320w, https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/ uploads / 2017/08 / 6_3-300x225..jpg 174w, https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/6_3-70x53.jpg 70w "sizes =" (max-width: 320px) 100vw , 320px ">

Any of the above cases assumes that it is necessary to bend the plasterboard profile so that the structure is installed on the basis of a given scheme. If you follow all the steps correctly, the profile will be easy to install.

It is necessary to bend the metal parts of the frame intended for drywall strictly according to the scheme. Therefore, in order to correctly bend a large area of ​​the profile, we study the attached instructions.

Jpg "alt =" (! LANG: how to bend a drywall profile" width="320" height="254" srcset="" data-srcset="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/20140802161523..jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 320px) 100vw, 320px">!}

Required tools and materials

Working with durable sheets requires the right set of accessories. To correctly bend metal parts, make the desired cut on one of them, and also make their high-quality installation, we use the following accessories:

• Screwdriver
• Metal screwdriver
• Pencil, tape measure and precise building level
• Special scissors for working with metal

In addition, the following items may be needed:

• Strong metal profiles on which we will fix the gypsum board
• Various fasteners such as self-tapping screws

When bending sheets, you need to take care of your own safety, hands should be covered with protective gloves to avoid various scratches and abrasions. Special safety glasses can also be useful for you at work. The procedure for creating structures from profiles of the required shape will take you 20 minutes, if you follow the recommendations.

Bending and securing the profile

How to bend a drywall profile correctly? You can bend the guide profile, since the rack is designed to support the main weight of the future structure. When creating an opening for an arch, you need to use a special arched profile.

It is necessary to bend all the profiles before starting their direct installation. Right angle cuts will help you shape the profile. There are 2 methods of execution, depending on which part of the metal profile will be used to install a strong frame:

Data-lazy-type = "image" data-src = "https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/20140802160235..jpg 320w, https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/ uploads / 2017/08 / 20140802160235-300x246.jpg 300w "sizes =" (max-width: 320px) 100vw, 320px ">

Jpg "alt =" (! LANG: how to bend a drywall profile" width="320" height="240" srcset="" data-srcset="https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/20140802161546..jpg 300w, https://remontcap.ru/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/20140802161546-174x131..jpg 70w" sizes="(max-width: 320px) 100vw, 320px">!}

The smaller the radius of the upcoming bend, the more often the cuts need to be made. Often the ceiling is formed by figures, sometimes the wall can also be decorated with various figures. In this case, the bend must be done at the end of the formation of the first level frame. The profile bending scheme is as follows:

1. We make the markup for the first wireframe level. This is necessary, since without this action it is impossible to perform complex curly elements;
2. We cut the required profile to the required length. To shorten, you need to use special metal scissors;
3. We make cuts at right angles, one must go parallel to the other, otherwise it will not be possible to bend the element. The step for their implementation may vary, but it is in the range of 50-80 mm;
4. We make cuts along the entire length or strictly in the place where you need to make the next bend;
5. Trying on the cut material for the finished marking lines;
6. We install the finished fastener, bending it as it is fixed;
7. We fix all the components, giving them a given shape.

Before the beginning of bending, the structure is fixed with self-tapping screws. This is an easy way to secure the future frame so that you get the right decor element.

You may need help installing a multi-curved structure as it can be tricky to install a bulky part on your own. You need to carefully look during work so that everything is done according to the scheme, the desired bend shape is obtained.

When fixing a frame containing curved shapes, each detail must be checked with a building level, because it is very important that all components are located in a single plane.