When to transplant strawberries in the fall: which month is better. Correct propagation of strawberries with a mustache step by step Victoria planting time

As you know, everything rises in price, so the price of seedlings of your favorite garden strawberries (or strawberries, as you are accustomed to) also jumped and bites the family budget. But it makes no sense to keep strawberry beds for more than four, maximum five years in the same place, so gardeners are forced to go to nurseries for new seedlings. And in vain, the seedlings of even newfangled F1 hybrids can be grown on your own plot and with your own hands, it's not so difficult. In this post we will tell you about all this in detail.

Strawberry mustache. © Mark's Veg Plot

Propagation of strawberries with a mustache is easy

The most effective way to increase the area of ​​your strawberry plantation, or (which is much better) to completely renew it, is to propagate it with a mustache. For garden strawberries, this is quite acceptable, it is a pity that not all varieties give a mustache, but nevertheless, the vast majority give mustache (with the exception of remontant ones).

In the process of growth, strawberries grow daughter rosettes located on long stems with leaves. It is advisable to select the most well and qualitatively developed daughter plants, without defects and root them in a new place in loose, moist and nutritious soil, as free of weeds as possible. Then, literally before our eyes, a new strawberry bush will grow, from which it will be possible to taste the berries for the next season.

Benefits of breeding strawberries with a mustache

If we compare the reproduction of strawberries with a garden mustache with planting them by pre-sowing seeds and growing seedlings, then the first method has a lot of advantages. Of course, you don't need additional rooms for growing seedlings, boxes or boxes, soil, you don't need to spend a lot of time waiting for the emergence of seedlings, caring for them, picking, planting in the ground and neat growing - let it all be the lot of breeders.

But when breeding strawberries with a mustache, there are only advantages. Absolutely all plants take root in skillful hands, because we separate them from the mother bushes with roots, that is, they are already practically independent, they only feed in two ways - both through the roots and through the "umbilical cord" of the mother bush. In addition, all varietal characteristics inherent in the variety are fully preserved (as opposed to propagation by sowing seeds), since the set of genes in both the mother plant and its whisker is the same.

There is even evidence that gardeners who tried to propagate newfangled F1 strawberry hybrids in this way also had complete success. In this case, vegetative offspring with full transfer of parental traits is obtained, but when sowing seeds, this will definitely not work. Maybe some of these seedlings will be exact copies of the parental forms, but, alas, not all.

The optimal time to propagate strawberries with a mustache

Now let's talk about the right time to breed strawberries with a garden mustache. This is the summer period. It is very important to try to have time to plant the whiskers separated from the mother plants in the soil and let them take root by the end of July or at least until the first days of August.

Only in this way will the root system of the mustache quickly gain growth, the vegetative mass will develop, the plants will begin to actively develop by the winter period, which, by and large, is not so far away, the strawberries will already be stronger, with a well-developed root system. Such strawberries will endure the winter either completely without losses, or with insignificant ones, which usually happens with a poorly developed mustache, if the gardener decides to plant them.

Considering all of the above, try to take the time and outline the rosettes on the strawberry bushes you like (you can, for example, with thin strips of colored tape).

We described the ideal option with a mustache of garden strawberries and a case of timing, but not always and not all the beds are ideal, and during the summer, not every gardener will be able to collect enough mustache to start a new plantation or expand the old one in the summer. , in a suitable and described time frame. Then it is quite permissible to do otherwise, and if you have planned the separation of the mustache in the current season, then long before it starts, start preparing for it.

Choosing the right mother bush

So, even a season before you plan to separate the layers from the strawberry bush, it can be noted by highlighting it from the total mass. Examine it, take a closer look at those rosettes from which most of the largest and identical-sized berries were obtained (naturally, and tasty). If everything is so, then why not tie a scarlet ribbon to this bush or stick a peg with the same ribbon next to it?

In addition, many gardeners try to kill two birds with one stone, they buy expensive strawberry seedlings and do their best to get berries and mustaches from it (allowing literally all mustache to grow, because this is a precious planting material, they believe), which very often corny leads to severe depletion of the bush and its long recovery.

But in order to collect strawberries and grow a normal, and not an insane amount of mustache, you need to endure only a year, allowing the mother bushes to bear fruit normally. All you need to do is to postpone the breeding season to the next year, but during this time, observing the bushes, you can easily identify those rosettes that will give the maximum yield.

Next year, leave only a couple of antennae on the plant, maybe three, and mercilessly remove the rest, however, like the peduncles, this will allow the plant to redirect all its energy to the formation of seedlings, and fully developed.

The correct choice of the mother bush is the key to healthy strawberry seedlings. © The Homestead Gardener

Breeding options for strawberries with a mustache at the wrong time

It is well known that from the timing of planting strawberry seedlings and the activity of the development of the root system until the onset of the winter period, enough time must pass for the roots to form fully and they would not be afraid of the winter cold.

But we do not always have enough time for this, other concerns rush in, some more urgent matters and deadlines are shifted, what should we do? There is one reliable option to remedy the situation - to propagate the strawberry seedlings first in pots (but in this case, you cannot go anywhere without soil and pots), growing it initially in the loose and nutritious soil of the pot, and then replanting it in place at the right time.

Growing strawberry whiskers in pots

Reproduction in pots seems difficult only at first glance, but in fact it is even fascinating. First you need to buy pots made of the cheapest plastic with a drainage hole inside (for seedlings), then dig up loose and nutritious soil in the garden, or just buy a couple of kilograms of humus and mix it with garden soil, laying it somewhere in the corner of the garden.

We don't need it yet, let it get wet in the rain. As soon as the new season starts, from the bushes that we identified earlier, feel free to remove all flower stalks, because we are waiting for children in the form of daughter outlets, and we are not going to feast on berries from these bushes now. Leave only three of the strongest and most well-developed mustache, feel free to remove the rest: we no longer need them and will only draw on food.

Remember the trick - the strawberry rosettes of the second and third order are usually much weaker than those located closest to the mother plant (bush). Knowing this, you can safely cut the mustache in such a way that after the first daughter bush there is a so-called shoot, that is, a tail, only a couple of centimeters long.

After that, you can pick up the pots, wipe them from the inside with 1% potassium permanganate (you never know what) and carefully fill with the soil that was prepared and folded in the garden. By the way, if such a soil does not suit you and seems too simple to you, then you can fill the pots with a different mixture, nutritious and rich in organic matter. For example, my friends always use a mixture of compost, mixing it with sawdust and garden soil in equal proportions.

Go ahead, since we have chosen a pot, then a strawberry rosette can be transplanted into it without even separating it from the mother plant. Just moisten the soil in the pot, make a depression and carefully transplant a rosette into the container, leaving the seedlings in the same place (that is, near the plant). The main thing here is to water it daily, not overmoistening the soil, but also preventing it from drying out. And so with every pot and rosette, do you think it is difficult? Not at all. What's the point of this? By the time of transplant, the daughter outlets will look perfect!

Preparing the beds for planting strawberries

When choosing the usual method of reproduction with a mustache (without pots), it is necessary to choose the strongest, most powerful, well-developed rosettes, but from those that have not yet begun to take root (sometimes this is harmful, because the roots can be injured).

Next, prepare a new plot for strawberries or expand the old one, as you like, the main thing is that the soil on it is loose, soft, airy. First of all, it is dug up on a full bayonet of a shovel with the complete removal of all weeds, then 250-300 g of wood ash per square meter, non-acidic peat (bucket per square meter) and sawdust (bucket per square meter) are added and everything is carefully dug up with a pitchfork to better mixing and creating the most homogeneous composition. Naturally, if the bed is dry, then it can be watered, carefully moistening and not creating a swamp.

Features of planting strawberry whiskers in open ground

When the bed is ready, we take the sharpest scissors and cut off the mustache from the mother plant so that the mother plant has a stem 18-22 cm long, and the foot at the outlet is about one and a half centimeters. The foot will further facilitate faster rooting of the mustache, and the stalk will protect the bush from drying out.

Then you need to place a strawberry seedling in the soil so that the foot is under the substrate, but the uterine tail sticks out of the soil, these things are often confused, but this is very important. The heart itself must be above the surface, it is impossible to sprinkle the heart with soil, this can be detrimental to the plant. We may have rudely written "to place", but in fact, naturally, a hole is digging, slightly moistened, and a seedling is already placed in it.

After planting, you need abundant watering, the garden bed should literally be turned into a swamp so that nothing prevents the roots from starting to develop as quickly as possible in new conditions.

If it rains heavily and the roots can be washed out, then over the bed, unless of course it is very large, you can install ordinary arcs made of strong wire and stretch the film over it, the sidewalls for the passage of air and lowering the temperature can be left free.

How to speed up rooting as quickly as possible?

Let's imagine that there is little time before winter and we need maximum acceleration in order to prepare newly planted plants for winter. We water them abundantly (but do not fill them), as well as the garden bed. We carefully loosen the top layer of the bed so that even the smallest crust does not form and even the smallest weeds do not form (there should be just perfect cleanliness).

And, of course, top dressing is impossible without them. Usually they use a banal nitroammophoska, dissolve a spoon with a hill in a bucket of water and water the plants, spending per square meter in a bucket, this is an ideal top dressing just for seedlings, there is the nitrogen it needs, there is phosphorus, there is also potassium.

Planting strawberry whiskers on the beds. © jak.iblog

Planting strawberry seedlings from pots to the beds

But there, the strawberry seedlings have already ripened, feel free to cut off the pots from the mother plants, cut the cups with scissors and - into the same beds that we have already prepared, be sure to leave a space of 20-25 cm between the bushes.

By the way, do not forget that from pots in a loose environment, the substrate can settle, and sometimes quite strongly. This can lead to exposure of the paw, and it is she who must form additional roots. The roots themselves may be exposed, because by that time they may already have formed in the cups.

What to do? You should dig a small hole before planting a seedling from a pot, water it with a small amount of water in order to only moisten the substrate, and gently but confidently press the seedlings inward, squeezing them with your fingers, so that in the end it appears as if it was where it grew before.

Further, after a week, walk with a hoe and lightly loosen all the strawberry plants, only slightly adding soil so that there are no bare roots, and in some places you can add soil with your hands. The main thing is not to cover the heart with soil and try to do so that the soil does not even get on it.

Strawberry Mustache Breeding Secrets

In conclusion, when you have already learned how to separate the strawberry whiskers and plant them correctly on the site, prepare the soil for them and even grow the whiskers in plastic containers, I want to give a couple of valuable tips from myself.

So, if you don’t want to wander around the site every year in search of uterine strawberry bushes, then simply select a few plants with the most delicious berries, henceforth removing the peduncles from them, so that all the forces of these plants are directed to the growth of the mustache, and thus multiply the specimens you like. Or create one row of a queen cell, but this is if you need a lot of seedlings, and this is already a profitable business, especially if you have good varieties.

Do not forget that the best time to transplant a strawberry mustache into a garden is the very last days of hot July and until mid-September, but remember: the more you tighten the deadlines, the more obligatory it is to use pots for growing mustaches in the way that we have described ...

Do not make almost the most common mistake of most summer residents and owners of personal plots: for some unknown reason, they stop watering the strawberry plot immediately after harvesting the entire crop or after planting a mustache on it. Few of them realize that this is the best time for the formation of flower stalks and the laying of a future harvest - moisture is needed, and the mustache will simply dry up and die without water.

And now I will list a list of strawberry varieties that do not give a mustache or give very little of them - these are varieties:

• "Baby elephant" (gives a mustache, but not enough and they are short),
• "Ruyana" (does not give a mustache at all),
• "Torpedo" (you won't get a lot of mustaches, although they will be),
• "Rusich" (also gives a little mustache),
• "Lyubasha" (does not form a mustache),
• "Baron Solemacher" (does not form a mustache),
• "Zolotinka" (does not form a mustache),
• "Fragrant basket" (does not form a mustache),
• "Snow White" (does not form a mustache).

They do not form a mustache, mainly, it is the remontant varieties of garden strawberries, but whether you need it, and whether you need such varieties, I do not know yet. Therefore, write your opinion about this in the comments, everyone will be interested!

If the strawberry plantation is not tidied up in August, it will turn into a solid green carpet by the end of autumn. And from thickened plantings, you will collect only a few handfuls of small berries. All the power of plants will go into greenery.

New housing for strawberries

First of all, you need to make a decision - to plant strawberries in the same area or transplant. After all, culture will give birth well in one place for no more than 4-5 years. Then it starts to degenerate. Therefore, if your strawberry has not changed its place of residence for a long time, prepare a new plot for it. Preferably sunny, but not completely open. It is good if some low bushes grow nearby, which will cover the strawberries from the scorching sun for a couple of hours a day.

Gardeners often place the plant between rows of young seedlings or grapes. At the same time, such plantings will shelter this berry crop from drafts, which it does not like very much.

It is impossible for water to stagnate in the area intended for strawberries, or groundwater should be closer to the surface than 1.5 m.

It is equally important to choose a site where suitable predecessors grew. Carrots, legumes, parsley, dill, onions and garlic, beets are best suited for strawberries.

It is undesirable to transplant the culture to the place where cucumbers, potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, cabbage or peppers grew. Diseases of these plants can be transmitted to strawberries.

Fertile land

The culture loves loose, well-moistened soil with a slightly acidic reaction. When preparing the land in advance, in the spring, you can fertilize it with compost, humus or chicken droppings. Immediately before planting, concentrated fertilizers should not be given, so as not to burn the roots.

Before digging, you can add superphosphates with potassium chloride (respectively 30g and 10g per m² of land) or wood ash - 2 glasses per 1m². It is even easier to use complex strawberry fertilizers in accordance with the instructions. You can buy them at any specialty store.

If you have black soil or loam, it is advisable to sprinkle the ground with a small amount of sand before digging, preferably river sand.

We dig it to a depth of approximately 25-30cm.

The best varieties

Every 3-5 years, it is advisable to update strawberries from your own mustache. Otherwise, it degenerates. But even if the berries are getting smaller, think about replacing the variety.

How to choose the right strawberry varieties tells Vasily Ivanovich Lavrenyuk, agronomist of the private enterprise "Valentina" in the Vinnitsa region:

- It is better to take varieties of different ripening periods. It is advisable to plant early, mid-ripening and late-ripening. Then strawberries will be on your table almost all summer. Learn about each variety's taste, yield, and disease resistance. For example, among the early varieties, we can recommend Chisinau early, Clery, Mashenka, Alba, ultra-early Olvia, the Khonei variety - very picky about the conditions. A very early and productive Elsanta variety, but this strawberry is sensitive to both drought and waterlogging. Among the mid-season, Vityaz, Festivalnaya, Victoria can be distinguished. Late varieties - Bohemia, Gigantella Maxim, Great Britain, Zenga, Malvina. There are good remontant varieties that give several yields - Queen Elizabeth II, Albion, Monterey. Usually, such strawberries bear fruit more actively closer to autumn.

We form the beds

The density of the strawberry planting depends on whether it is in this place for the first year or not. If the plant sits on a new territory, there should be at least 60 cm between the rows, 80 cm is optimal, but between the bushes you can allow a slightly greater density than usual - about 15 cm.When planting berries in the old place, the distance between the tubers should be not less than 30cm, better - 40cm.

We choose young strawberry bushes that are well developed, with at least three leaves.

Optimally, when the root lobe reaches 5 cm in length. It is necessary to plant strawberries in the evening, when there is no sun.

We make holes with a diameter of about 15 cm. We water the hole with not cold water, at the rate of 500-700 ml for each, put the strawberry bush carefully so that the roots do not bend. When the water is absorbed, add a drop of strawberries so that the root collar is at ground level. If it is lower, the water will begin to stagnate and the plant may rot, higher - the roots will begin to dry.

After planting, it is advisable to mulch the ground around the plants with straw or freshly cut grass. Sawdust should not be used. Over time, they can be compacted, and air will cease to flow to the roots.

If it is hot, it is necessary to water the bushes abundantly every other day - about 1 liter of water under each, until the plants take root. If the weather is moderate, but there is no rain, 400-500 ml of water every other day is enough.

Strawberry meadow

Transplanting strawberries is not much different. Just like strawberries, they need updating. It is only advisable to plant the culture every 2-3 years. A slight difference in planting strawberries is that it is advisable to raise the beds with it a little above ground level. This helps to better keep the berries from dirt in summer, and the plant itself from freezing in winter.

The distance between the rows is 60-80 cm, and between the bushes 25 cm is enough.

Strawberries are an unpretentious plant, but, like strawberries, it needs regular watering.

After transplanting, it needs to be watered every other day - under each bush 400-500 ml of water warmed up in the sun until it takes root. During a drought, water it 2-3 times a week at the rate of 500-700 ml of water per bush.

It is recommended to mulch the aisles. This will help to retain moisture and keep weeds out of the plantings. You can use agrofiber. You need to spread it on a prepared plot of land before planting strawberries or strawberries. We apply the edges and aisles with stones or slabs. We make cuts where the bushes will be planted. This method allows you to retain moisture and keep the strawberry plantation from weeds, fungal diseases and freezing in winter.

Oksana SHAPOVAL
Photo depositphotos

One of the popular varieties of large-fruited garden strawberries is called Victoria. In the summer, it flaunts on the beds of most summer cottages, since the requirements for its cultivation are not too high, and a bountiful harvest more than pays for all the energy expended. This berry is planted both in spring and autumn. Consider in the article how to properly plant Victoria in the fall, so that it does not suffer in winter and pleases with juicy fragrant fruits in summer.

Choosing a site for planting Victoria

This berry belongs to varieties, which allows you to delay the planting of Victoria until late autumn. However, it is better to avoid extremes, after all, the plant must have time to take root, otherwise there is a great risk that the bushes will die in winter or give an extremely low yield in the first year. Victoria planting is carried out on a well-lit flat area, closed from the winds. If plants are grown in lowlands, they often get sick and give low yields. Also, in the lowlands, there is often high humidity, which negatively affects the winter hardiness of garden strawberries. A windy area is especially dangerous for the winter period - if the wind blows off the snow from the area, the plants will die from frost.

Victoria's predecessors

Victoria is a picky berry in terms of crop rotation. As a perennial plant, it does not live in one place for more than 4 years and requires a transplant. The plant will take root well if legumes, beets, onions, carrots, oats, rye, dill and garlic grew on the site before it. It is absolutely necessary to avoid such predecessors as cucumbers, cabbage, potatoes, tomatoes, nightshades and strawberries. A plot where strawberries have already grown will be unsuitable for planting Victoria for at least 5 years.

Preparing the soil for autumn planting

Before planting Victoria in the fall, you need to take care of the summer preparation of the soil. Usually, gardeners, a month before the intended planting, bring humus into the soil (about 3 kg per square meter) and dig it up, then level it and trample it down. It is important to get rid of the roots of other plants and insect larvae during digging. Sandy loam soil is ideal for Victoria, therefore sand is often added when digging.

Victoria garden strawberry planting rules

Planting Victoria in the fall is no different from planting in another season. The soil is loosened to a depth of about 8 cm, furrows are made in it and watered abundantly. Correct planting of Victoria requires the following distances between the bushes - 25 cm between plants in the same row and 60 cm between the beds. If the roots of the Victoria are more than 7 cm, they should be pruned. It is important to lower the roots vertically into the ground in order to ensure the rapid growth of the root system, and place the apical bud strictly at ground level. The technology of planting Victoria involves further compaction of the soil near the bush, watering it and mulching it with sawdust in a layer of 5 cm.If you decide to plant Victoria on a covering material, fix it on the garden bed before planting the plants and make holes in those places where the garden bushes will grow strawberries.

Care of Victoria planted in autumn

This is not to say that it requires some intricate actions. In dry weather, watering is required, and it is also necessary to loosen the soil around the bushes and weed it. As for leaving after the autumn planting, it is important here to take care of the shelter of the plants from frost. There is no need to rush when the first autumn frosts begin, give Victoria the opportunity to experience them for herself, to temper in some way. When the temperature drops to -6 ° C, you can cover the plants, for example, cover them with autumn leaves with a layer of 15 cm. It is imperative to remove the shelter in early spring so that the plants do not spill out and die.

Almost all gardeners love and grow strawberries, but not everyone knows when it is better and how to properly transplant it to a new place so that it continues to bear fruit. Having learned a few subtleties of transplanting, you can avoid many problems and grow a rich harvest of these tasty and healthy berries.

When is it better to transplant strawberries - in autumn or spring?

To get a good harvest of strawberries, you need to follow the rules of crop care. One of the main requirements is regular (once every 3-4 years) plant transplantation to a new location.

Strawberries are transplanted both in spring and in summer and autumn.

When landing, the following factors are taken into account:

• The land for the spring transplant is prepared in the fall, and with the autumn planting, 2 weeks are enough. If the soil has not been prepared since last year, then it is better to postpone the transplant to a later date, that is, summer or autumn, depending on the region.
• In the spring, the seedlings are weakened after a long winter. By the fall, the plants give strong planting material, which allows you to grow healthy plants that give a good harvest.
• the first crop is harvested one year after planting. Plants planted in the fall, the next spring delight with their berries, which makes such a planting more attractive than spring.

In different regions, the time for transplanting strawberries in spring varies greatly. Due to the temperature characteristics of the climate, planting is carried out from April to early June. It continues until the moment when the plants begin to eject buds. Then the transplant is suspended and continues only after the end of fruiting.

Transplanting strawberries in spring begins, after warming up the earth to a depth of more than 10 centimeters, otherwise the plants die. With a long melting snow cover or late spring frosts, the spring transplant is often delayed. In this case, it is better to plant strawberries in a new place in late summer or autumn, when the earth is warmed up and more than a month remains before frost.

When choosing the timing for transplanting strawberries, you need to take into account the climatic conditions of the region: the duration of the warm season, the frequency of precipitation, the onset of the first frost. In any region of Russia, strawberries are transplanted into open ground 1 month before the start of the first frost.

From the moment of transplantation, young bushes must have time to take root, get stronger, in order to bring a bountiful harvest in the future.

In the Moscow region, strawberries are transplanted to a new place from August 15 to September 30.

This planting allows you to get an earlier harvest of berries in the future.

Planting times may vary depending on the weather conditions in the current year. The main thing is that the plants have time to take root before the first frost, otherwise they will die.

In the Urals

The optimal time for transplanting strawberries in the Urals is the period from August 15 to September 15.

Plants are planted in different ways. When planting plants under a black film or agrofibre, an earlier harvest is removed in the spring (1.5-2 weeks ahead of schedule).

When planting strawberries in open ground, the plants are covered with a film with frequent precipitation.

In Siberia, strawberries are transplanted from late July to mid-August.

At a later planting, the plants are planted under the covering material or in the greenhouse.

In the Leningrad region

In the Leningrad Region, strawberries are transplanted from mid-August to mid-September.

In order for the plants to take root faster, they are covered with agrofibre. The material allows moisture to pass through and retains heat, which are the main requirements for plant rooting.

The strawberry yield grows due to the appearance of new leaves, whiskers and peduncles on the bushes. After 3-4 years, the growth process in plants stops, the number of berries decreases, they lose their taste and become smaller. Over the years, the soil under the strawberries is depleted, diseases accumulate in it, and pests multiply.

To obtain a good harvest of strawberries, regular soil renewal and the removal of old bushes from the beds are required.

For transplanting strawberries, 2-year-old bushes are taken. Younger plants have not yet had time to get stronger, and 3-4-year-old bushes do not give a good harvest.

Strawberries are propagated by whiskers and bush division.

Planting is done in open ground or under a black film or agrofibre.

In regions with unstable temperature indicators, it is better to plant seedlings under film or agrofibre, which protect the plants from negative environmental factors.

From mid-June to July, strawberry bushes produce whiskers. For transplanting strawberries with a mustache, healthy, strong bushes with a strong root system, developed leaves and a core are selected.

The strongest whiskers growing closest to the mother bush are left on the mother bushes. Other peduncles are pruned so that the plants do not waste energy on the development of new bushes. The whiskers, if they did not have time to take root, are sprinkled with earth and, when 3-5 leaves appear, are transplanted to a new place.

For planting strawberries, a light, non-flooded area with loamy and slightly acidic soil is selected.

• If on the site there is peat land per square meter of beds, 1 bucket of river sand and 1 bucket of land are brought in.
• A bucket of clay chips, 5 kilograms of rotted leaf litter, 5 kilograms of humus, compost or peat are brought into the sandy area.
• 1 bucket of sand, 1 bucket of peat and 1 bucket of rotted humus are added to clay soil.
• With a high acidity of the soil, wood ash or dolomite flour is introduced into the ground.

Onions, garlic, legumes, grains, beets, and carrots are included.Poor prior crops are eggplant, cucumber, peppers, tomatoes, physalis and potatoes.

A strawberry plot is prepared for planting in 1.5-2 weeks. Complex fertilizers, steamed sawdust or rotted humus are applied to the soil cleared of weeds and roots. The soil is dug to a depth of 25 centimeters.

Before planting strawberries, 10-15 kilograms of rotted humus, a glass of wood ash, 25 grams of potassium chloride, 40 grams of superphosphate are introduced into the soil per square meter.

The soil is dug up again, leveled with a rake and treated with a solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection.

You need to transplant strawberries in cloudy weather or in the evening.

Landing

If the site allows, then the best scheme for planting strawberries is a one-liner. Bushes in this case are planted in 1 row, in increments of 25-30 centimeters. The row spacing is 80 centimeters. This planting pattern makes it easy to care for and access the strawberries from 2 sides during harvest. The whiskers that appear later make the landing more dense.

In a small area, strawberries are planted in 2 lines. The sockets are planted in steps of 30-35 centimeters in one row, the same distance is maintained between the lines. The row spacing in this case is also equal to 80 centimeters.

Caring for such plantings is more laborious, but with frequent feeding, the crop yield does not decrease. The mustache is subsequently removed with this cultivation.

Holes are broken on the prepared bed. Their depth should be equal to the length of the plant root system.

The planting material is inspected for damage. Bad seedlings are discarded. Saplings with roots longer than 10 centimeters are pruned. A good seedling should have 3-4 developed leaves, a strong, developed root collar with a diameter of more than 6 millimeters and a dense core.

To avoid diseases, the roots of seedlings are placed for 1 hour in a solution of Aktara and Previkur.

Prepared holes are filled with water. After absorbing water, the bushes are placed in the holes, the roots are straightened.

They are covered with earth, so that the core of the plant is on the surface of the soil.

Strawberries are once again watered and mulched with dry soil or rotted humus, peat, steamed sawdust.

At the time of harvesting strawberries, bushes are selected, which will later be used for dividing into individual seedlings. Selected bushes, after harvesting, are covered with compost or rotted humus.

At the same time, the roots of plants begin to develop actively, which later contributes to the rapid rooting of seedlings after transplanting them to a new place.

Overgrown plants are dug out together with an earthen clod. The soil is carefully separated from the roots. The bushes are placed in a container with water. When soaked, the horns are separated from each other using a sharp, disinfected knife.

Dry leaves, shoots, peduncles and old roots are removed from each detached horn. The seedling should have 2 young stems with light roots.

The roots are dipped in a clay mash, consisting of 3 parts of clay, 1 part of manure and water (water is added until the mixture is creamy).

Instead of a chatterbox, you can use a solution of, a teaspoon of copper sulfate and 3 tablespoons of table salt per bucket of water. Plant roots are soaked in this solution for 1 hour.

Prepared seedlings are laid out in the holes. The roots are covered with earth, lightly tamped and watered with settled water from a watering can. The soil around the plants is lined with a layer of vegetable mulch or dry soil.

Care measures for transplanted strawberries include regular watering, weed control, pest control, and loosening of the soil around the bushes.

When watering plants, the water should not fall on the foliage. The first 7-10 days after planting, the seedlings are watered daily. Then watering is reduced to 2-3 times a week. The soil should be moist, but not wet, as overflow can lead to the death of strawberries. On a large planting area, drip irrigation can be organized, which simplifies plant care.

If the beds were fertilized before transplanting, then the strawberries do not need additional feeding.

The roots of an adult strawberry can withstand soil temperatures up to -7 degrees, but young bushes are deprived of such frost resistance. Therefore, after planting strawberries, the soil around the plants is covered with mulch.

To shelter bushes for wintering, needles, peat, sawdust, rotted humus, straw, needles are used. Only plant roots are covered.

When snow falls, the bushes naturally protect themselves from frost with the help of a snow crust. In the absence of snow cover, the plants are covered with agrofibre or spruce, pine spruce branches.

Garden strawberry is considered one of the most unpretentious plants, many of its varieties are frost-resistant and not susceptible to disease. However, it gives juicy large fruits only in the first five years of growth, after which it is necessary to transplant strawberries.

The exact sign that speaks about the need for seating is the presence of a large number of rosettes around the main (uterine) bush. They take up most of the nutrients, reducing the amount of fruiting. But the same rosettes can be planted in a new place and become full-fledged fruiting bushes.

Plants are transferred to a new bed in almost any month - from June to October. But in spring or autumn, that is, until the moment the fruits appear, it is optimal to do this.

The main goals of a regular transplant

The strawberry yield decreases after 3 years of growth in one place, and after 5–6 years, the loss of nutrients increases significantly due to the large number of outlets and the plant practically ceases to bear fruit. This is due to the fact that strawberries, located on one piece of soil for a long time, draws out the necessary trace elements and other nutrients from the soil. The depletion of the soil leads to the fact that the fruits become small, thinly planted, the number of new shoots decreases, the leaves may begin to turn yellow.

Experienced gardeners recommend moving the bushes to a new location every 3-4 years, based on the volume of the crop and the appearance of the plant. If the berries become smaller, their number decreases in comparison with previous seasons, the strawberries look sick, old, the leaves turn yellow, a transplant is definitely needed.

Every year, buds appear on the stems, releasing antennae. Branches are used for reproduction. Each new season, these stems "rise" upward, depleting the plant. During wintering, such a bush is more prone to freezing.

When is the best time to transplant strawberries

Strawberry bushes are transplanted in almost any season from the beginning of summer to the end of the fruiting season, which, depending on the variety, falls on September-October, as well as in spring. Relocation during flowering should be avoided as this can reduce yields.

It is easiest to transplant strawberries in the fall - the bush has given the entire possible harvest, gradually enters a state of dormancy, preparing for wintering. However, it is impossible to say for sure whether the plant will take root. If strawberries are transferred to a new bed in spring, it soon becomes clear which bushes have taken root, and the approximate volume of the future harvest is determined. We must focus on winter hardiness, strength of the roots and growth rate.

In the spring

It is better to transplant strawberries in the spring at the end of March and April, in the middle lane - until the end of May, in the northern regions - in the last decade of May and until the first half of June. General rules for any climatic zones - when replanting, the soil must completely thaw, and the air temperature must be above + 10 ° C for several days. Plants tolerate light frosts well, so you will need to study the weather forecast.

Spring transplantation is possible only by reproduction of the bush. The separation of shoots makes it possible to get the first, albeit small, harvest already this year.

A method of growing seedlings from seeds is also used, but this option is more laborious: the seeds do not always give shoots, and the planted seedlings often do not take root, since they are very demanding on climatic conditions.

Summer

In the summer, it is best to transfer the bushes to a new bed in late July and early August. This is the optimal time for the middle zone and northern latitudes. By this time, a large number of new seedlings appear on the bushes with berries, they are strong enough to grow into a full-fledged bush.

No frost for at least 2-3 months after transplanting, cool, humid weather at the onset of the autumn season will allow strawberries to grow quickly next year, take root well and grow until the first cold snap. This makes it possible to get a bountiful harvest at the beginning of the next season. In summer and early autumn, it is convenient to propagate plants by dividing, which is important for varieties that do not give tendrils.

When starting planting in the summer months, you must carefully monitor the weather. If the air temperature is high, there is no rain, the planted bushes may not take root.

Breeding varieties tolerate moving to a new place worse, may not adapt before the onset of cold weather. For them, landing in the spring is preferable.

In autumn

If the strawberries are transplanted correctly in the fall, they will yield a bountiful harvest next year. These terms are optimal for southern latitudes, where temperatures are above zero until November. In addition, it is in autumn that the soil becomes moist, the air temperature decreases, but there are still enough sunny days for good growth of outlets.

A strawberry garden transplanted in the fall will survive frost well. It is necessary to transfer the bushes 3 weeks before the onset of cold weather, so that the shoots have time to take root and get stronger.

Terms of transplanting remontant varieties

Such strawberries, which produce two crops in one season, are best transferred to a new growth site in May or late July, when frost is not expected. You can propagate this variety with a mustache, dividing or growing seedlings from seeds. The easiest way is to reproduce by young shoots, but this method does not allow you to get a harvest in the first year.

There are also several types of remontant strawberries, some give new shoots, while others do not. Mustacheless varieties have several advantages - they are more resistant to diseases, unpretentious to the place of seedling and weather conditions, they ripen even in darkened beds, do not require transplanting for up to 5-6 years without reducing the amount of harvest.

How to transplant strawberries

The simplest strawberry seedling methods suitable even for novice summer residents are dividing the bush and propagating by young shoots (whiskers). Growing seedlings of this plant from seeds is more laborious, requires certain skills and suitable temperature conditions, but it makes it possible to try the first harvest during the planting season.

By dividing the bush

Most often, by dividing the bush, plants that do not have antennae are propagated. But this method is suitable for almost any variety. This option has several advantages:

• the rooting rate of seedlings is up to 90%;
• transplanting can be performed after harvest, that is, in the fall;
• it is possible to update the beds throughout the season from April to October;
• yields are increased by choosing healthy, strong rosettes that have already borne fruit this season.

First, select the strongest healthy mother bushes. Then dig out a rosette, remove dry leaves, clean the ground from the roots. Place the plants in water and separate the bush into separate horns. Cut off the dried roots, remove the peduncles.

In humid regions, it makes sense to cut off half of the leaf from each plant, which will reduce the evaporation of moisture after planting.

After that, the bushes are sent for growing in pots. Fill a container 8-10 cm in diameter with earth and peat in a 1: 1 ratio, place a bush in the center, sprinkle it with soil, water it and plant it in a greenhouse after 1, 5 months. After 3-6 weeks, depending on the appearance of the plant, transplant the strawberries into a permanent bed. For each square meter, 5 kg of humus is added, the acidic earth must be balanced with dolomite flour (0.5 kg per square meter).

Rooted mustache

From young antennae, a transplant is carried out when the soil is sufficiently moist, the temperature does not rise more than +25 degrees. This method can be used in spring and summer as well as early fall.

The largest number of whiskers appears from mid-July to September. They are already frost-resistant, the seedlings quickly take root in the soil and are able to survive even a cold snowy winter.

You can plant a mustache in separate containers and open ground. Shoots are introduced into the soil after preliminary loosening. In pots or jars, soil is used with the addition of fertilizers. Rosettes are cut from the bush 2 weeks before transplanting.

For strawberries, choose sufficiently lighted, windless beds. The plant develops the fastest after legumes and nightshade crops, they are considered the best predecessors.

Preparatory work

The quality of the preparation of strawberries for transplanting to a new place determines what kind of harvest the gardener can get next year and whether new seedlings will take root at all.

Site selection and preparation of beds

A piece of land with a slight slope will be optimal for strawberries. The main thing is that the bed is protected from the cold wind, the illumination is oriented to the east or west. A shady area, places with high soil moisture are not suitable for this plant. Also, they do not plant bushes on hills, where the soil is very dry and the water evaporates quickly.

Unsuitable soil is considered to be peaty, clayey, podzolic and acidic. It is necessary to prepare the soil two weeks before the start of the transplant, and if it is carried out in the spring, then the bed should be formed before the onset of cold weather in the previous fall.

After digging, fertilizing is carried out with compost, manure, superphosphate, potassium sulfate, and abundant watering is carried out. The ridge should not exceed 50 cm in width, the distance between the landing holes is at least 30 cm.

Selection and processing of planting material

The transplant is performed on a cool, sunny day. An hour before planting in the soil, the garden is watered. It is better to use a humus solution at room temperature. Within two hours, the roots are soaked in various infusions:

• ready-made growth stimulant;
• herbal starter based on legumes, nettle and double superphosphate;
• garlic solution.

For transplantation, you can take bushes on which there are at least three healthy and strong leaves, the root system is not dried, its length does not exceed 12 cm. There should be no rot on the roots. If they are longer than normal, prune with scissors.

When transplanting with antennae, strong, developed rosettes are chosen, in the spring the ovaries are completely cut off. In 2 weeks, it is necessary to divide the shoot with scissors, which connects the uterine bush and the rooted rosette.

Planting technology

It is necessary to transplant garden strawberries in summer and autumn according to a certain scheme:

1. Bushes are planted in a prepared bed at a minimum distance of 30 cm from each other. When planting closer, they will not have enough space for rooting, there may be a lack of nutrients for good nutrition.
2. If you are transplanting with outlets, do not dig them out in advance so that the root system does not begin to dry out. Transfer the tendril immediately to the prepared hole.
3. Pour water into a small hole, place a bush, sprinkle with soil, gently press with your hands and immediately pour abundantly.
4. In hot weather, the dug out socket or part of the bush, if you use the dividing method, must be placed in a solution that consists of manure, clay and ordinary water. Top dressing will help the root system to recover.

With a spring transplant, the depth and landing pattern is different:

1. The air temperature during work must be at least 6 degrees Celsius.
2. Dig up the bed, free it from debris and roots of previous crops, feed and moisten.
3. For uniform illumination of future plants, choose an area directed to the east-west. Groundwater should be located below one and a half meters.
4. Keep the beds small, maximum 50 cm wide and 20 cm high.
5. The day before planting, moisten the soil, and before starting work, pour sand about 10 cm in height into each hole, fill it with warm water.
6. Place the dug out rosette, sprinkle it with soil, after straightening the roots, pour at least 3 liters of water at room temperature into each hole.
7. Apply peat or humus-based top dressing around the bush.

If the weather is hot at the time of work, darken the area for several days before the bush takes root.

When using any transplanting method, it is necessary to take into account the climatic conditions in your area - how often precipitation falls, how long is the warm season, when, on average, the first frosts occur. The planted rosettes or parts of the bush, as well as seedlings obtained from seeds, must grow stronger and take root in order to bear fruit abundantly.