Make a massive table with your own hands. Table: material, manufacturing technology, diagrams, designs - simple and complex. White coffee table

Dinner table - an essential attribute of any dining room or kitchens, center of gravity for the whole families and on weekdays, and especially on holidays, when behind him are going relatives and friends. Therefore, the table should be comfortable, of high quality and beautiful.

The stores are big today choice, but it is much more pleasant to make a dining table with your own hands. In addition, it is significant saving for the family budget.

Dining table options

• Extendable dining table. The most popular option. Small for everyday use, with the arrival of guests, this table is significantly increased due to additional countertops.

• Folding table - a great solution for a small kitchen. The easiest option is pinned to the wall table top and support leg.

• Folding table. The classic representative of this type of furniture - When assembled, it resembles a cabinet. It has one narrow frame tabletop and two wide large ones that are located on the sides and unfold.

• A very handy thing that is suitable for both the kitchen and the living room. When folded, it can even be unfolded - a full dining table.

What can be made of?

Materials that are used for the manufacture of dining tables, enough:

• wood;
• Chipboard, chipboard, MDF;
• plastic;
• natural or fake diamond;
• metal;
• glass other.

Each of them has as their own pros, and cons.

• Wood
  The solid wood table is a classic. Wood attracts people not only for its beauty, but also because it is easily processed. In addition, the tree is ecological material that has a beneficial effect on human health. Unfortunately, it has its drawbacks. At the table you need to carefully look after. Wood is sensitive to climate change conditions in room. For example, if the room has enough wet or hot, it doesn't work out very well on the material.
• Glass
  whether it be a magazine, lunch or some other, it looks very stylish. But this stuff is tough processed. In addition, not every glass is suitable for a dining table. You need to pick up lasting material. Best for countertops armored glass, the cost of which is very different from the usual, and processing is carried out only at the factory where it is used special equipment.

Dining table made of wood

So you have decided do dining table on kitchen do it yourself. First of all, you need to decide on dimensions future product so that it blends harmoniously into the interior.

You can take ready-made drawing dining table, if specified in it dimensions meet your requirements.

For example, consider making dining table made of wood.

This simple rectangular a table on four legs will Great look both in a classic interior and in choosing the appropriate way finishes, you can make a dining table in or in

Materials and tools

Before assembling the table, prepare materials:

• balusters(legs) - 4 pcs. Height - 73 cm. They should not be thin;
• edged boards:
  5 x 15 x 100 cm (for table top) - 4 pcs.,
  80 cm (long crossbars) - 2 pcs.,
  40 cm (short slats) - 2 pcs.;
• sandpaper;
• glue carpentry;
• dowels.

Note: countertop boards need polishing.

• pencil, roulette, meter;
• hacksaw, a circular saw or grinder;
• plane;
• drill(drill 8 mm.);
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws(30 mm);
• brushes.

Manufacturing steps

Step 1. We make a tabletop. Planks trim first in width and then in length. Process surface plane. Sand the wood thoroughly so that the worktop becomes smooth. The edges must be well finished. If you do this, the boards will tightly adjoin each other.
Make the same marks on the edges of the boards, step back 10-15 cm. Then drill out holes and apply in them carpentry glue. Plaster the edges. Then the chopiki must be driven into the holes. Connect boards.

Remove excess glue emery paper. Level the joints between the boards with a plane, grind countertop surface and edges.

Note: if you walk on the tabletop with a metal sponge, the wood will become more textured.

Step 3. Pairs of legs, connected by short crossbars, are fastened together long crossbars.

Step 4. Drill in long crossbars holes. When the glue is dry, install countertop.

For more strength you can strengthen the structure with additional transverse bars or boards.

How to make a table from a metal profile correctly:

Table decoration

Necessarily more before assembly necessary antiseptic impregnation.

When the work is done and the table is ready, you need to tackle it finishing. First of all - choose Colour your product. It can be absolutely anyone. Best fit oak or walnut, these colors are considered classics.

Give the wood the right shade and even imitate valuable wood species can be used with decorative stains.

For protection from moisture and imparting presentable appearance need to cover the table several layers varnish. Each layer must be thoroughly dried.

If desired, the tabletop can be decorate. For example, an interesting and uncomplicated one, even for a beginner, is applicable both for decorating a new product and for restoration dining table do it yourself.

How dining tables are made of wood, see video:

It is no secret that furniture is used in the country, which has served its term in an apartment. The table is no exception. However, in suburban conditions, the furniture that served well at home may not always fulfill its purpose. We are talking about modern tables, made mainly of laminated chipboard. Such tables are not suitable for a gazebo, veranda, garden, and in a house with high humidity in the off-season, their service life is limited. In such conditions, a wooden table is necessary, but a wooden table is not a cheap pleasure. The solution to the problem is to make a table with your own hands. This is quite simple to do. In addition, this will significantly save money, including on delivery.

The simplest table design

The simplest table design is shown in the photo below. At the same time, such a design is the least expensive both in terms of materials and manufacturing forces.

Fig. 1.

Optimal table dimensions

One of the advantages of making a table for a summer residence with your own hands is that the table can be made of any size. Thus, the table can be easily adjusted to the dimensions of the gazebo, veranda or kitchen.

To make it easier to navigate in size, I will give a dimensional grid, which is most often used in the manufacture of tables. Dimensioning is based on the size of the countertop.

• 60x90 cm. A table with such dimensions is optimal for 3 people. It is convenient to dine at such a table, drink tea, etc. Due to its size, it will fit well into any small space.
• 80x120 cm. 4 - 6 people can sit comfortably at such a table. Usually a table with this size is appropriate for a large kitchen or veranda.
• More than 120 cm. Tables of this size are good for feasts. In the conditions of a summer residence and a limited space of a country house, such a table is mainly installed in a gazebo or under a canopy in the open air.

Naturally, when making a table with your own hands, the size can be made arbitrary, however, in order to be comfortable at the table, you should adhere to the recommendations given above.

Manufacturing procedure and table drawing

A drawing of the table is shown in the figure below.

Fig. 2.

The legs for the table are made of a wooden bar with a section of 40x40 mm and a length of 70 cm. If you want to decorate the table, you can use balusters as legs. They are carved and will make the design of the table more interesting.

The support for the tabletop can be made from a board with a section of 25x150 mm by sawing it lengthwise into two halves. For support, you need 2 boards with a length of 650 mm and 2 boards with a length of 1050 mm.

With the countertop, everything is much more interesting. The countertop can be made in a variety of ways. The easiest option is to purchase a furniture board of the required size. It can be purchased in building materials chain hypermarkets.

Fig. 3.

Following this path, it should be remembered that a furniture board is made by gluing small pieces of boards, and with constant exposure to atmospheric precipitation, it will quickly become unusable. Therefore, a table with a furniture board top must be varnished or painted to protect it from moisture.

Another option is a board tabletop. The boards can be used in any size. For example, with a section of 25x100 mm. This is a simple and cheap countertop option. This option is devoid of the disadvantages that are inherent in a furniture board.

Fig. 4.

However, without special equipment, it is unlikely that it will be possible to tightly fit the boards. Therefore, the table top will have gaps between the boards. This looks good for a garden table. But not very practical.

You can get rid of the gap mentioned above by using an unusual, grooved board. It will cost a little more, but you will get a smooth, even tabletop.

Fig. 5.

Euro floor boards can be used as grooved boards. They are easier to find in the store. It is only important not to forget to stitch them from the wrong side.

Assembling the table

Once all the elements of the table are ready, you can start assembling the table. The assembly of the table is carried out in a specific order.

First, the support for the table top is assembled and the legs are fixed to it. This is the most difficult part in assembling the table. As described earlier, the worktop support consists of 4 planks. They need to be connected together. This can be done in several ways.

The photo below shows how to assemble a tabletop support and fix a leg to it using a special tie.

Fig. 6.

This method is the perfect solution, except for that fact. Getting a special screed can be tricky.

Another way is to tighten the entire structure with a piece of wood.

Fig. 7.

Using this method, you need to pay attention to the fact that the bar must be sawed off at an angle of strictly 45 degrees. Otherwise, the table will not be rectangular.

In my opinion, the simplest and most affordable option for assembling the legs and support for the table top is the use of a metal general construction corner with a size of 50x50 mm. You can buy it in any store, and it has the correct geometric shape.

The last step in assembling a table is the installation of the table top. Depending on the type of tabletop, it can be fixed in different ways. The furniture board can be fixed with corners or with glue. Separate boards with self-tapping screws and glue.

Fig. 8.

As you can already understand, making a table for a summer residence or at home with your own hands is quite simple. It's important to get creative. Such a table can be decorated with any paintwork. A handmade wooden table will delight you every day and will serve for many years.

Wooden tables and decoration ideas

Fig. 9.

Fig. 10.

Fig. 11.

Fig. 12.

The table is the second object after the stool, which should be tackled by a novice amateur furniture maker. The design of a simple table is no more complicated than that of a stool; an unpretentious comfortable table for a dacha or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, hammer and drill. But a table made according to the same technology and slightly ennobled can look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensive purchase. However, the table also gives great freedom of creative expression, it can be a significant and even key element of interior design, it is not for nothing that handicraft furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa chairs, cupboards or bedside tables. Having dabbled in the carpentry craft, it will be possible over time to take up exclusive tables, the rest of the pos. in the same place.

This article looks at how to make wood tables. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic benefits. In utilitarian products, she forgives rather gross mistakes for beginners, but delicate woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, then it will be much easier to master glass, metal and plastic.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need a production room separate from the living rooms: woodwork, as you know, is dusty. In addition, such good means of toning and wood protection, such as stains, emit harmful fumes during the staining process; nitro lacquers too, albeit to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, or better - with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and they will not benefit the car. Better to work in a barn; if it is not yet there, then it can be built, but on the farm it will come in handy for a lot.

An ordinary carpentry tool, on the left in the figure, is enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better if modern achievements are brought in to help, on the right in the same place:

• Swivel miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make cuts exactly in size and angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work is more precise. The miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
• A manual jigsaw with a tilting shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
• Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, the beginner is given the opportunity to get the surface of a wooden face in 5-15 minutes, on which an experienced carpenter with a skin in his hand will take at least an hour, and a strip, pos. 5, also quickly and efficiently process the ends; there are also belt sander for grooves and grooves with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other works, and quite expensive, so at first it is better to rent them. True, the masters are still successfully brushing with grinders, i.e. artificially aging, wood, but this is a delicate work.
• It is also preferable at first to rent a hand-held wood router, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. Shaped edges are processed with it, holes and grooves are selected.

Very useful on the farm in general is a universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications. It is compact, fits on the table, power supply - 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, planer, wood turning machines and a set of cutters. True, you can't just grind the table legs on it, the overhang of the tailstock support is too small. But the caliper itself is just a round steel pipe, it is not difficult to lengthen it. The cutter stop remains standard, it is movable, the leg and with a long support is sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

A wooden table can be made from any wood of average resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailant. Of the domestic ones, these include:

The breeds are ranked in order of availability. For example, the harvesting of horse chestnut, sycamore and juniper wood is not carried out at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, and the juniper is endangered and protected. The industrial harvesting of elm is almost entirely used for shoe stocks, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash is used for armory; there is no full-fledged plastic replacement for them yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, it does not regenerate well, therefore its harvesting is strictly regulated, and timber is expensive.

Note: walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent toughness, the most delicate walnut carving does not prick. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. Pine or oak will go to the countertop; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop, it is strongly warped from a spill. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

On a pine tabletop made of boards, you can and even need to take off-grade cheap boards - knotty, twisted. But, of course, without falling out knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of an unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, traces of rot on black (ebony) wood can be whitish or yellowish.

Why is the countertop substandard? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished on a circular and a jointer? And after skillfully processing them, layers of remarkable beauty are obtained, on the left in Fig. Manufacturers do not like such a tree: the production cycle is delayed, waste increases. But for yourself with your own hands, this is not so scary compared to the result.

Wooden top

Business pine has a clearly expressed zoning of wood in the form of growth rings; other conifers and many deciduous species also have it. On the saw cut, the rings form the so-called. a hump in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in Fig. in the center, then when rallying the shield for the table top (see below), the boards are oriented with humps alternately up and down, from below in Fig. If the peaks are directed to the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with peaks in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the tabletop does not split and warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

Waste engine oil is a free remedy for protecting wood from rotting, but for what one eats from, this is not the best option. Optimal will be 2-fold, with a break of 3-5 days, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion (VPE), it will give the table protection for the entire duration of its life. Even birch plywood, impregnated with WPE, is suitable for the front panels of furniture: covered with varnish on top, it does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually falling out of use: in all respects they are superior to water-based acrylic varnishes; in addition, they are safe to work with. Also, adhesives, bone carpentry and BF-2 for alcohol are inferior to PVA; however, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires the application of glue to both surfaces, keeping them tack-free before joining and holding under pressure for 1-3 days, but in home production this is acceptable for oneself.

The wood for furniture can be tinted in advance and protected with a stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To touch up the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same varnish and artistic (not painting!) Dyes: oil in tubes for NTs varnishes and acrylic water colors for the same varnish.

First, a "paint" is prepared: they take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it with continuous thorough stirring with a painting brush. The paint is stored in a tightly closed vial and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is done on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the rules for mixing oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

The first steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If there are 1-2 brick pallets left from the construction site, then the pallet table will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, you get a garden table like a coffee table, on the left in Fig. If there is a couple available, you can make a wall-mounted desktop rack in the center and on the right in just half an hour. Chains for him can also be woven from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the table top, the small tool is placed on the shelf of the wall pallet.

With a little more work, a collapsible cutting table for a summer residence is made from one pallet, which allows you to transfer the summer-autumn harvesting campaign to the street, without littering with husks and without treading on stumps. For the winter, this table is assembled in a compact package. The design is clear from the pic; a bucket is placed under the hatch in the countertop.

The next in order of complexity is the well-known country table-goat, in common parlance a goat. Its 40mm plank construction is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right is a suburban folding table based on the same principle. It has hinge joints (bolts М8-М12, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place indicated in green, a boss-stop is placed on the nails between the crossbars of the tabletop. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it will also go for a picnic. If this is not foreseen, or the trunk is larger, the tabletop can be made longer.

Finally, the table for the gazebo also does not require special tools and skills, see fig. below. The material is the same forty board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art ...

To get ahead in dining, you now need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. The table, in general, consists of a table top, its support frame, possibly with niches and / or mechanisms, or just a plate - underframe - legs, and assemblies that hold everything together. Let's go through them, starting with the connections together with the legs, because their fastening is the weakest point of the table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled on quick-drying, non-aging glue: carpentry, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off caps are used to connect thin boards, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries up, but the metal does not, and over time, the connection looses.

A thin-layer wood is taken on the dowels, which is stronger than both parts to be joined, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table with birch legs can be joined on oak or beech dowels. On sale there are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels; before use, the edges of the dowels are chamfered. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, for example. inserts in sliding tables.

Legs are attached to industrial tables with detachable drawers, see fig. on right. The pos. Marked in yellow is the simplest, cheapest and worst. Buyers of Shiroptrebovskaya Soviet furniture are well aware of its shortcomings in the absence of advantages, even if it remains there. Reliable, well hold, except for the legs, and underframe boards, tsars with cut-in jibs, "green" pos. They also require the lowest costs, but are quite laborious, therefore they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. A drawer with a shaped steel jib, in the upper right in the figure, is even stronger; in this way, you can fix the legs with a round head and in general any, however, purchased fittings made of high-quality steel are required.

Note: the legs are attached to the round table as shown below in fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for easy storage and transportation. In a small apartment with a narrow corridor, a table with legs is often simply impossible to push to the living room, no matter how you twist it. Modern apartments are more spacious, and in 1-storey private houses, the table can be served / issued through the window, therefore, in such cases, the strength and durability of the table with tightly fixed legs comes to the fore.

For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind mounting should also be rectangular, pos. 1 in fig. By the way, tsars are also one-piece: then the legs with dowels that go through the cut-in wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with cornel or boxwood wedges inserted across the jib wood grain. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that you can fight with these 200-year-old tables by grabbing the leg.

Sufficiently high-quality tables on chiseled legs are assembled simply on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and easier are the legs of a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. To prevent them from clinging to the floor, you need to stuff the heels on them below or put the table on wheels.

Table top

The easiest, but not the cheapest, is to order a tabletop made of laminated chipboard (laminated chipboard, laminate). Laminated chipboard for countertops is produced in the form of the so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m with a thickness of 20-60 mm with a decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the lower face with a drip tray, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is quite environmentally friendly, no matter what those who do not want to forget, the joint furniture, which smelled of phenol for months, may gossip.

Postforming is well bought by small furniture companies. They always have his waste; of them, they will willingly and for a very affordable price cut the tabletop to size, if the company has a coordinate cutting machine. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be trimmed, i.e. cover the PVC end with a piping (edge). If you will trim yourself (sometimes they ask for an awkward surcharge for edging), then consider:

• The upper and lower flanges of the edge have different profiles, see on the left in fig. Confuse - there will always be a mud edge on the table.
• The edging must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the slab. You can put a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm slab, but it will slide off soon.
• The groove for the edge ridge must be selected with a manual disc cutter; with a saw, it seems, no one has done well yet.
• Before installing the edging, a thin layer of silicone sealant is applied to the end surface and the "sausage" is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also be a lubricant, without which the edge ridge can simply crumple.
• The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows from a mallet, gradually moving along the contour. At the same time, the table top should lie on the support, facing up; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately washed off with a clean cloth, slightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are rallied in plank casings with wedges and spacers - vaimah. It is quite possible to make Vimes yourself; on the countertop you need 3-4. The boards (cheeks) are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. In fig. for example, the process of making a round table top; rectangular rallies in the same way, only trimming to size is easier. The shield is rallied to the tabletop with glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are grooved, dowels are not needed. When rallying on PVA, the next plot before installation in the clamp is kept until the applied glue is tack-free.

Often, countertops are assembled without vines on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic wrap. It will not work to assemble a good board shield on the plaza: either it will come out cracked, or they will stand on end when assembling the boards. But inlaid tabletops from fragments are simply wonderful in skilled hands. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. - table top made of sawing waste, stained with stain. And at pos. 4-5 the base of the tabletop was the plaza itself made of thick plywood. The tile and its battle are glued with tile glue, then the hollows are filled with grout for drinking, the surface is lacquered and the outline is edged with a wooden strip.

Note: these examples illustrate far from all the possibilities of making type-setting art tabletops with your own hands.

Underframe

The underframe of the table with fixed legs is a simple wooden frame, on the left in fig. Niches and details of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the table top is removable / extendable, or large operating loads are expected (eg work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffeners in the center. If the legs are fastened with tsars, then the underframe is performed at the same time with the tabletop to form a single power circuit, on the right in Fig.

Unframed

Tables without a base are also known, in which the table top with legs work in a single supporting system. Very durable, e.g. plywood table on the left in rice; its connections are dowel. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a piece of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm and more will go to large sidewalls, and another 1 for smaller ones. The table on the right is already quite possible to make with your own hands: the supporting frame is prefabricated; connections - in a thorn with a bolt tightening and half a tree. However, the table top in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right corners.

... and we get into the kitchen

Exactly. The table for the kitchen is the next in order of complexity after the simplest summer cottages. It must already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average completeness; the width of the seat for 1 eater / rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the table top is not less than 70 cm. Aesthetic appearance is very desirable, but it is not decisive: suddenly it has been wrapped with decoration, for that and the tablecloth. The worktop should be easy to clean, durable, and resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be met by a laminated chipboard table with metal legs; they are also sold separately in sets of 4, with fasteners, on the left in fig. Factory table legs are usually equipped with height-adjustable heels. The table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the legs of the legs with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% cheaper than the whole purchased one, and in appearance will not yield to it, on the right in Fig.

If you are not too lazy to put your hands on, steel legs can be made with your own hands. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of the branded legs are cast from a rather fragile silumin, the fasteners weaken over time, they need to be tightened. You yourself can cut out the nests from good steel, and weld the very legs into them.

The kitchen is more spacious, perhaps there is room for a larger table. In such a case - on the trail. rice. kitchen table drawings in a rustic style. This table is "rustic" not only in appearance: it does not contain a single nail and, in general, metal fasteners. Only wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing one, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the table top, the shields on the sidewalls will also have to be rallied, but in this case the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

A table with a round top is appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But a tabletop made of boards in this case is not the best option: due to the presence of sharp corners, it is without a frame, which is very complex and time-consuming, prone to splitting. From this drawback, type-setting tabletops from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free; unlike round laminate, they are decorative, stylish, unique and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in the small-type worktop, but here the “law of the broom” works. Not the American Senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of being completely forgotten about it at home, but the broom with which they sweep the rubbish. As you know, it is impossible to break it (a broom, not a senator) tied up, and a child will break twig by twig. So here, due to the ease of distribution of loads between small fragments, the type-setting of them worktop as a solid plate, and after assembly it can be cut off even "with the letter siu".

Note: the idea of ​​the senator-broom, sorry, Broom, was inspired by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world famous as Mark Twain: “I assert, and undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more fantasy than a bull. But not the bull that bellows in the pasture, but the one that is the pillar of the bridge. "

How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in fig; on the right there are the dimensions of the table top and the assembly order. And in fig. on the right above - a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business one. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; assembly with glue. Any round will go to the tabletop, from a saw cut to a cardboard stump, made by the method of making cardboard shelves, but the underframe is necessarily strong, made of wood (two hundred board) or chipboard.

Going further: into the living room

The table in the main room of the house should be suitable for the whole house. At the same time, with the modern striving for laconic design (which also saves the cost of living space), the table should not be conspicuous for the time being and take up less space. Therefore, one of the most demanded pieces of furniture of our days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, with all its transformations, remains a table, and does not turn into a wardrobe or a bed - a table-bedside table; it is quite possible to do it yourself "from scratch". Here, 2 options are most commonly used. On the left in Fig. - the table is deployable, it has a record ratio of occupied areas in expanded and folded form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the countertop wings down, it will serve as a bar. By raising the wings one at a time, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and fully deployed (in the center), it will provide a place for a rather crowded banquet.

A bachelor living in a small apartment is more suitable for a folding table-bedside table, on the right in Fig. These are, in essence, 2 small round folding tables described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can dine with one folded from it, because, unlike the previous version, there is something to do with your legs. And when unfolded, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or sincere gatherings with friends.

All of the above qualities combine transforming coffee-dining tables with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables, which are always tables, they basically come down to 2 types: an elevator (pantograph) and a book. How one and the other work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although a lot depends on the quality of execution. Books are more popular with book lovers, because a book mechanism can still be made independently, and an elevator outside production conditions is unlikely.

How the book-table is laid out is shown in stages in Fig. on right. To make it yourself, you need to know that the key unit is a damping-balancing elastic link. In fairly expensive proprietary designs, very soft-working gas dampers (gas lifts) are used, but an amateur is better off opting for a spring damper, and not because gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be, within fairly narrow limits, coordinated with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the tabletop, the underframe and the own weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened / loosened; as a last resort, replace. In general, an unsuccessful home-made transforming table with gas lifts is rarely "brought to mind", and a spring one almost always. If you decide to still torment yourself with a homemade acrobat table, in fig. - drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the presence of drilling, turning and milling machines for metal or access to them, most of the parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $ 40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $ 50- $ 60. The factory transformer coffee table rarely pulls less than $ 200, so even in this situation, the savings are significant.

The transforming table is made for the mechanism. One of the most popular are Mazetti transformation mechanisms, due to their good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti mechanisms are produced in a supporting frame (center inset in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. The rest of the pos. in fig. show the device and dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong revelry

Say what you like, but in a normal family with children, friends and relatives, you cannot do without crowded gatherings at the table, and here a transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave the banquet tables for the living room in more or less full volume, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily due to the sliding mechanism.

By the way, the good old "sliders" with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the countertop halves (item 1 in the figure), if properly executed, are quite convenient and reliable, in addition to this, they can be made by yourself, but this process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic rails of full extension, pos. 2, allow the use of not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the capacity of the table by 6-10 persons, respectively, but is quite expensive, and their installation requires a description of no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with folding bed inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when sliding / sliding the halves of the tabletop, the inserts raise, unfold and put in place or put back into the underframe a very complex mechanism, but its manual versions are available for making at home.

As for banquet tables with pull-out individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in a computer desk, they cannot be called popular: leaning forward (and how to avoid this if the house is without servants?), We get the board back to the underframe, and our portion of the treat - for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Recall that the table is not always pushed apart, and you can use the side table, but a solid table is more reliable in any case. Therefore, in the series of figures below, there is a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and how it looks "alive" - ​​see on the left in fig. at the beginning.

In addition

The table, and any furniture, often wants to be painted not just with stripes or artistically painted. To protect the design from external influences and to ensure that the varnish can be refilled if necessary, paint should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by the method of layer-by-layer rubbing of paints is called glaze. So, in conclusion, we offer a master class on wood glazing.

Video: wood glazing master class

The kitchen table is the same age as the kitchen itself. Probably even older than her: at the sites and in the settlements of primitive people, large flat stones were found near the hearths, which served as cutting, distribution and dining tables; the remains of food and food have been preserved on them. In this article, we will see how to make a do-it-yourself kitchen table completely at home. This will not only save a certain amount (in general, not ruinous), but also provide an opportunity to acquire the initial skills of carpentry, which in the future may turn out to be much more significant. The most common types of furniture joints are used in kitchen tables, but its design forgives rather gross flaws in work. There are also great looking types of kitchen tables, for the manufacture of which it is enough to be able to saw off a piece of board and turn a screw.

The table in the kitchen also provides considerable opportunities for creative self-expression: skills are needed here a lot less than fantasies, and failure will not spoil the whole interior. Samples of the original kitchen tables in the photo below are quite available for making with your own hands, but first you need to feel the design and material at a basic level, in which we will try to help the reader.

There are at least 15 different ways to make a kitchen table., including art forging and casting from homemade artificial marble. However, firstly, we will restrict ourselves to kitchen tables made of wood, as a material that allows you to get the desired result with the least labor, money and time.

Secondly, we will deal with tables with rectangular or rounded corners. A round table requires 1.6-2.2 times more usable area than a rectangular one for the same number of eaters. Moreover, the first meaning refers to the case when the hostess is deprived of a free approach to it and must be served over the shoulder of the seated person. This already belongs to the category of parodies of the rules of good form. Like, how should you tilt the plate when finishing the soup: towards yourself or away from yourself? Answer: depending on what you want to shower, yourself or the tablecloth. In addition, a round table in a small kitchen is stronger than a rectangular one of the same capacity wedging into the so-called. functionality triangle, see below.

Dimensions and ergonomics

The height of the kitchen table is normal, 700-780 mm, counting from the floor to the top surface of the countertop. For people of average height, the optimal table height is 750-760 mm. But with the size of the kitchen table in terms of the situation is more complicated.

The essence is in the same triangle of functionality: refrigerator-sink-stove. Ideally, it should be rectangular isosceles with legs of 1.2-1.6 m.However, the ergonomics of the kitchen is much stronger than some deviation from these proportions, spoils the wedging of the dining area into the hypotenuse. Simply: the hostess bent over the sink or stove, and rested seductive forms on the cheek of the faithful just when he brought the spoon to his mouth. Therefore, it is advisable to make the table for the kitchen, especially of economical layouts, smaller, if only it would be convenient for eaters.

The minimum allowable size of a family kitchen table in terms of is considered to be 600x900 mm... For singles, let's say a table of 450x750 mm, as in railway cars. In this case, it is also permissible to make it in the "microkitchen" or in the kitchen area of ​​a small-sized odnushka wall-mounted folding, see below. But the optimal dimensions of the kitchen table top are considered to be (650-800) x (1100-1400) mm, depending on the available usable area and the size of the users.

What to do

The traditional kitchen table is on the underframe pos. 1 in fig. The underframe is the supporting frame of their boards placed on the edge - the tsar. The drawers can be tightly fastened to the table legs, and the table top can be freely applied to them; those. its fastenings only prevent horizontal displacement. Such a kitchen-sized table is structurally simpler and more durable, but it is more difficult to bring in / out, especially if the passage to the kitchen is narrow. The second option - the drawers are tightly fastened to the table top, and the legs are detachable. In this case, a tabletop is needed durable and not of any suitable for pre. case, material, and the design is more complicated. But there are no problems with skidding / removal. Both of these options for the classic kitchen table will be discussed in more detail later.

The table on the underframe can also be decorated, pos. 2. Making an artistic kitchen table is not at all as difficult as it might seem. The basis of its design - the chiseled shaped legs - are excellently obtained from commercially available handrail balusters (see below). The figured wash down of the tsar for a novice craftsman who knows how to handle a jigsaw is not a problem. Remains a hammer - a shaped chamfer on the lower edges of the drawers. For her, you can rent a hand-held milling machine with a cutter of the profile you like, with it the very work of mouldering takes less than an hour, plus 10-15 minutes of training on some kind of pruning.

No less common in kitchens are beam-structure tables, pos. 3. They are even in the simplest design (2 options, see below) more attractive than tables with a base. However, to perform them in a high-end design (pos. 4), well-equipped carpentry and solid manufacturing skills are required. Beam tables require more material consumption, but their indisputable advantage is that they can be made completely collapsible without tools (also see below).

Tables with a load-bearing worktop without a base (pos. 5) are also very common in kitchens. In the factory version, this is perhaps the cheapest kind of good quality kitchen tables. A set of legs for such a table + a postforming tabletop (see below) will cost about 2,500 rubles, and the assembly will take half an evening at most. But with a completely independent production of such a table, a beginner will encounter some significant nuances, see below.

Tables-books, they are tables-pedestals, pos. 6, initially made a splash due to its compact folded form and the ability to use it in half, but then there was a period of some disappointment. Firstly, no matter how you sit at such a table, your legs are uncomfortable. Secondly, in the first samples, the pivot support lock was the simplest, of a pair of 50x20 bars attached with a gap equal to the support thickness to the underside of the tabletop. The outer faces of the bars were often removed with a wedge so that the support would not cling to them when the table was unfolded. However, if you accidentally pry the tabletop with your knee, the latch is immediately released. Therefore, such tables could not do without a hodgepodge with cutlets and mashed potatoes on trousers and on the floor, and a reliable and easy-to-use mechanical latch turned out to be very complicated and expensive. Nevertheless, both amateur craftsmen and serious manufacturers are improving this, in principle, a very promising design, to which a special section will be devoted further in this publication.

Wall folding tables (pos. 7) are found occasionally in very tiny kitchenettes. Most often - among busy bachelors who are accustomed to doing everything while standing, even sleeping on the carpet in front of their superiors. have all the disadvantages of book tables with little or no improvement. Serving tables (pos. 8) are used on the farm much more often, but this is a separate class of pieces of furniture with its own specific qualities and features of manufacturing technology, so here we will limit ourselves to only mentioning them.

Technological subtleties and innovations

The kitchen table, firstly, is made of wood species or materials that are little or not at all subject to shrinkage when drying out: oak, hornbeam, wenge, chipboard, MDF. Ordinary commercial wood in the kitchen atmosphere with its fluctuations in temperature, humidity and organic vapors in the air in 5-7 years begins to warp and crack even when impregnated and varnished. On the other hand, the dimensions of the kitchen table are small. Hence, some features of its manufacture follow, ultimately allowing to simplify the work.

Table top

This is the main detail of any table. For a homemade table in the kitchen, the best option is to buy a ready-made post-formed countertop, they are available in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. Postforming is a profiled chipboard plate with rounded edges, finished with wood or other material. The advantages of postforming applied to the kitchen table are as follows:

Postforming is good technologically, for simplicity and speed of work. But unlike the example, countertops made of boards, the so-called. solid wood or furniture boards. Joining the boards into an array is a rather delicate and painstaking work, for this special devices are used - clamps. If you have a desire to try yourself in the manufacture of solid wood furniture, we offer a selection of videos:

How to assemble a furniture board with your own hands:

How to make a kitchen countertop:

How to make a table top from wood end cuts:

In the last video, the material is junk, but the look can be achieved - the tough oligarchs will salivate.

Dowels, confirmations and dowels

Traditionally, wooden furniture is assembled on dowels. The dowel connection is invisible and cheap; just in case, recall what it is and how it is done, see fig. To connect wooden parts, wooden dowels are used, which dry out together with the connected parts; practically non-drying chipboard is connected with plastic dowels. Corner plastic dowels are of little use, because often break. Connections with wooden dowels are usually glued.

It is often difficult for novice craftsmen to achieve accurate markings for the dowel connection. Tricks, like marking with bitten nails (pos. 4 in the figure), do not always help, and it is impossible to remake an incorrectly marked dowel joint, both parts go to waste. Therefore, it is better for beginners to collect their first products on furniture euro screws - confirmations. It is more expensive, but does not require any special skills. the hole for the confirmation in both parts, compressed with a clamp, is drilled in one run, see fig.

Details made of chipboard or dense fine-grained wood, connected by confirmations, last for many years. All structures described below can be assembled both on dowels and on confirmations. However, in the latter case, the following rules must be observed:

• Use furniture for wood, and not plumbing confirmations for plastic. They differ at first glance: for furniture slots for a hexagon, and for plumbing ones for a Phillips screwdriver.
• The diameter of the confirmation body without thread when attached to the end should be no more than 1 / 5-1 / 3 (extreme case) of the thickness of the attached part.
• The height of the confirmation neck must correspond to the thickness of the main part.
• The deepening of the threaded part of the confirmation into the attached part must be at least 5-6 full diameters of the confirmation.
• The hole (blind hole) for the confirmation is drilled to its full length with the head.
• Use the main drill only with a twist drill for wood.
• It is imperative to thread the main drill into a mandrel that exactly matches its diameter and screw size.
• Drill holes for confirmates with a main drill of diameter equal to the diameter of the confirmat on the thread.

In practice, it is not difficult even for a perfect "teapot" to fulfill these conditions:

1. By the thickness of the part, we determine the diameter of the confirmation body without thread;
2. There is a lot of information on the Internet about confirms, according to which, knowing the diameter of the screw body, the thickness of the main part and the depth of drilling, you can determine the required standard size. It is better to immediately open the pictures at the request "furniture screw (or confirmation) drawings dimensions";
3. We are looking for a retail outlet where the seller, when asked to show furniture confirmations, shows exactly them;
4. We say: "I need so much of such and such a standard size and a drill with a mandrel for them." They can offer a solid drill just for such a confirmation, it will be cheaper.

And a little more about dowels. It is best to put on them a detachable (freely superimposed) countertop of a classic kitchen table. Incl. and for such purposes, plastic dowels with a round head or dowels with a head and various types of corrugation on a long recessed and short protruding part are produced, see fig. on right. The first to be fixed are thick countertops, approx. from 20 mm; the second - which are thinner.

Different tables

Classic

Classic tables on the underframe, together with the legs (item 1 in the figure), are traditionally connected (assembled) on tenon-groove joints, which is quite difficult and time-consuming. A modern tool - a drill with a twist drill for wood and a screwdriver - in combination with legs, the head section of which is not less than 60x60 mm (for balusters, the head is usually from 100x100 mm), allows for a kitchen table with dimensions up to approx. 750x1500 mm to do with the connection of self-tapping screws on wood obliquely, pos. 3. In any case, the outer layers of the tsars should be 1.5 cm apart from the outer surfaces of the tops of the legs, this is necessary for overall strength. The minimum permissible height of the side of the kitchen table is 120 mm; thickness - 30 mm.

It is highly desirable to reinforce the connection with self-tapping screws obliquely with diagonal ties at the corners (pos. 4, above) from the same board as the tsars. If the tabletop is not supposed to be removed unless absolutely necessary, then the laborious setting of it on the dowels can be abandoned. Then, at the corners of the finished supporting frame, scraps of the same board - crackers - are cut into the tsars and the tabletop is attached to them from the underside with self-tapping screws, pos. 4 below.

The top of a classic table with detachable legs should be from 24 mm thick (chipboard, plywood) or from 30 mm (solid wood). Countertops made of other materials, for example. artificial stone, suitable for tables on the underframe at the same time with the legs are not applicable here. Due to the large difference between the modules of thermal expansion of them and the wood, the table will soon become loose.

Further, the drawers are attached to the tabletop with long confirmations through the end, on the left in the figure, with gluing with wood glue or PVA. It is difficult to achieve accurate assembly using ordinary wood screws. they are without a neck that keeps the joint from displacement.

The next point - jibs in the corners (in the same place in the figure) are required, wooden mortise or ready-made steel overhead. The legs at the corners are attached in the usual ways, on the right in Fig.

Desk drawer

A drawer is a classic structural module of a classic kitchen table. The guides for the desk drawer are taken the same as for the drawers of the bedside table, chest of drawers, cabinet. Since a large weight load in this case is not expected, and the smoothness of the drawer and the possibility of its full extension are not of great importance, you can use inexpensive roller guides on which the keyboard boards of computer tables go.

The structure of the furniture drawer is shown on the left in Fig. It is not necessary to assemble his tray in the old fashioned way on a box spike (on the right in the figure), you can use self-tapping screws into the ends of the boards. The thickness of the boards for the drawer sides is 12-20 mm. The plywood bottom is often fastened with a furniture stapler, but this is not entirely reliable. It is better to attach with self-tapping screws through the cranial bars along the contour of the bottom. The front of the drawer can lean on the front drawer of the table or enter it flush, it doesn't matter.

To install the box in the table, an opening is cut out in the longitudinal front sidewall according to the dimensions of the cross-section of the box tray, plus allowances on the sides of the guides (indicated in the specification for them), plus another 3 mm along the contour. Then the side support boards are installed to fix the rails. They are attached to the longitudinal side bars from the inside using backing bars. It is not necessary to fasten it from the tabletop, it will loosen. Next, the box is assembled, attached to it and to the support boards, respectively. parts of the guides, push the box into place, that's all.

Quite simple

A perfectly simple but good looking kitchen table with a classic look can be made on a supporting frame made of planks, see fig. on right. Its length, if the cross-section of the side bars is not less than 120x20 mm, can be increased to 1100 mm. Table top - any worktop weighing up to 15 kg. The angle of inclination of the legs from the vertical is 15-20 degrees, this is one fundamental point in this design. The second one is transverse ties made of 50x15 timber, they give the entire structure the necessary rigidity. So, although this table looks classic, in fact it is already beamed.

Beam

Drawings of a pair of kitchen tables of a beam structure are given in Fig. Above - completely collapsible without tools. The table top is constructively any, placed on dowels, although the style of this table (rustic) is fully consistent only with the solid wood table top. A variant of its fastening from the underside without dowels on the cranial bars is shown in the inset in the center on the right.

In this product, a beginner stumbling block may seem like a lower bandage (longitudinal tie) with a beveled through groove for a wedge. In fact, everything is very simple: the lower bandage is assembled with glue from 3 layers of 10 mm plywood or board. How this type of beam kitchen table is made, you can watch the following video:

Video: do-it-yourself table by components

Without a tabletop

Factory kitchen tables without cupboards are usually produced with postforming countertops, pos. 1 in fig. Those who want to make something similar on their own under a wooden tabletop will encounter the following tricks.

First, a table holder is still needed, made of a wooden beam from 50x50, pos. 2. The fact is that mechanical stresses in the boards always flow to the corners, where they are distributed very unevenly. But the wood under all 3 attachment points of the leg holder must be approximately the same, otherwise the attachment will loosen by itself. The strapping from a bar expands the fan of stresses in a given place to an acceptable value, but it is impossible to replace a continuous strapping with corner overlays, there will be no sense from them.

The second is the material of the countertop. Standard threaded sockets for mounting the leg clips (pos. 3) are designed for laminated chipboard or dense fine-grained wood. If the countertop is made of pine, etc. laminated enough soft wood, the nests can, breaking the layers, crawl back out already during the installation of the clips. And the probability that this will happen when someone accidentally pushes the table is close to 100%.

And the third is the clips of the legs themselves. In cheap sets of parts for tables without table stands from "alternative" manufacturers, they are most often silumin, pos. 4. And silumin, as you know, is very, very fragile. In general, if you like these tables, it will be easier to buy a ready-made one with a guarantee. Most likely, and cheaper than recruiting a self-assembly kit at retail.

Books and cheburashka

The disadvantages of the book-table of the original design (see the figure on the right) have already been mentioned above. In fig. below is a drawing of the design of a book-table (only one swivel support without tabletop wings is conventionally shown), eliminating them in an amateurish way, but effectively. Quite simply, the width of the pivot support is reduced by more than half compared to the tabletop wing span (350 and 720 mm, respectively). Now the support rotates 90 degrees, it became comfortable to sit as you want. The support, located in the working position along the longitudinal axis of the tabletop, holds it even better than the oblique one, and in order to raise the tabletop until the upper support bar comes out of the simplest lock (see above), the knees must be lifted up so that it will be very inconvenient for yourself. General stability is provided by the legs of the pedestal section, which must be made as long as possible, but not less than 600 mm. If this is not the case, the pivot bearings must be brought down in height to the floor level.

A fundamentally similar solution was applied in the wall folding table (pos. 1 and 2 in the next figure), but here the bevel of the hanging angle of the support works for operational reliability. Which is quite applicable in the previous. case: there are no contraindications for the implementation of that support in the form of a trapezoid converging from top to bottom.

The branded solution to the problems of the book table is the detachable legs stored in the cabinet. Putting them down is not much more troublesome than catching the clamp on the tabletop with a pivot support. Such a table-book turns out, of course, more expensive, but its operational reliability is complete: there is no retainer, tk. he just isn't needed.

The next step in the evolution of the book-table is a design with a wider cabinet and 1 leg for each wing of the tabletop. The legs are half as much, so the whole table is cheaper. Its stability has only increased due to the expansion of the cabinet, it is generally comfortable to sit, and there is more space in the cabinet (which is always lacking in the kitchen).

Such kitchen tables were so popular with consumers that they have already been given the nickname - Cheburashka table. Probably remembering from the cartoon: "Here, we built, we built, and finally we built it." A fold-out kitchen table as it should be.

Alternative

If your kitchen is combined with the living room or you plan to combine them, then you don't need to think about the kitchen table, it is better to replace it with a column. At the bar, you can not only drink, you can eat on it too. The meaning of such a replacement is that at least half of the dining area generally goes outside the kitchen, and the rest is used sporadically and does not wedge into the functional triangle. Result? See fig. It is more convenient to work and dine in a 5-dimensional kitchenette in a bar counter - a separator of apartment zones than in an 8-9 meter kitchen of a brezhnevka. Can't believe it? Let's count.

The kitchen table doesn't stand on its own. To plant eaters, you need to add 400 mm to it along the contour, and another 300-350 for the approach. As a result, a table 900x600 mm requires approx. 2.5 sq. m "living space", and the table 1200x700 mm and all 3.5 square meters. m. It is very, very difficult to shove such a thick slice into a regular-sized kitchen without crushing the soft-boiled functional triangle. Here, even if two sit at the counter from the side of the kitchen, the functional triangle is not disturbed, and the hostess is close at hand.

One of the famous culinary experts once said: "The kitchen is conservative, like the digestive tract." Here he, of course, bent and bent. Something like a stove, refrigerator, food processor and microwave is not found in our belly, although the kitchen is really conservative. But even in the most conservative sphere, sometime there comes a moment that requires fundamental changes.

A great way to complement the interior of a house or summer cottage is to make an original and stylish piece of furniture. We are talking about how to make a table with your own hands in this article. Such a piece of furniture will become a real decoration of the living room, kitchen or study. It can be assembled at home from specially ordered planks and beams or from leftover materials. For this, the master will need drawings, tools and a little imagination. But the experience of making homemade furniture may be lacking. We offer you a very simple project for assembling a sturdy and stable table. Even a beginner can make furniture according to this scheme.

It all starts with an idea

How to make a table? You need to start work with the selection of a finished project of furniture for the living room or with drawing up your own diagram of the future product. You don't have to limit your imagination, but remember that the complexity of the drawings should correspond to your skill level. In the absence of sufficient experience, it is better not to try to assemble a very complex structure yourself.

The project of a table for a home can be drawn with a pencil on paper. First, you need to draw a structure of the desired shape, and only then designate its dimensions. Most often, a do-it-yourself table for a living room is made square or round, but for a kitchen or study (and any small room), a compact corner or adjustable table is suitable.

The dimensions of the table with your own hands can be absolutely any; when choosing the dimensions of the product, it is recommended to take into account, first of all, the dimensions of the room in which it will stand. Then, using the drawings, you can calculate the amount of material that will need to be purchased. It is recommended to purchase materials with a small margin (just in case).

If you are a beginner who assembles furniture for the first time at home, then you better give preference to soft wood (for example, pine).

Such materials are very malleable and do not degrade during assembly. If you are making living room furniture and aesthetics are important to you, then choose poplar. If the homemade table will be used outside the home, then it is recommended to choose treated wood or mahogany.

A wrought-iron table with a wooden tabletop will also differ in durability. A wood product decorated with wrought iron elements will add charm to your yard.

To assemble a simple table at home, you will need:

• edged or grooved boards, square beams (for legs) and rectangular beams (for the frame);

• white or yellow wood glue;
• screws (it is advisable to take self-tapping screws 4x60 in size);
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• a set of clamps;
• sandpaper or sander.

Making the countertop right

We begin the work by describing the process of making the countertop. There are several ways in which you can solve this problem. What determines the choice of this or that method? First of all, from the skill of the furniture maker and the intended appearance of the table for the living room or country house. So, here are the main ways to make a homemade countertop:

1. Production from boards. This material is distinguished by its relatively low cost, excellent appearance and environmental friendliness. If you are a novice craftsman, then you can make a table with your own hands from grooved boards (that is, blanks with combs and grooves.

An experienced craftsman can assemble living room furniture from their edged boards. To do this, he will need dowels or a soil carrier of a small length. They will be used to connect the boards to each other.

1. Manufactured from a single piece of wood. In this case, you do not need to rack your brains at all over how to make a table with your own hands with a fairly durable and beautiful table top. The best option is to purchase hardwood plywood. However, such a product will be quite expensive.
2. Assembling a product from leftover materials. This is a very cheap way of making furniture for the home, but quite difficult to implement. It will be necessary to select pieces of wood that will harmoniously combine with each other and will not create problems during the installation and further use of the product. Combining leftovers is also not easy. In this case, you will have to use screws and a large amount of glue or create an underframe (stiffeners).

In the first case, the boards are layered on top of each other, connected with screws and glue. Since all boards are of different sizes, it will be necessary to cut off protruding elements on the finished product and carry out a thorough grinding. The result is an original and comfortable table.

The second method involves fastening the remnants of materials in any convenient way (using glue, screws) with the subsequent strengthening of the structure by installing an underframe or stiffeners. Such a table with your own hands will be distinguished by stability and durability.

If the table will be located in the courtyard near the house or in a stylized living room, then you can order a forged frame with legs for it. This will add a special flavor and originality to the product.

When the countertop is ready, you can leave it overnight to dry properly. The manufacturing technology of this part of the table is approximately the same regardless of the chosen shape of the product. The main differences between projects in this case are in the shape that needs to be given to the edges of the boards or a solid sheet of wood.

If you are making an original corner table, then the edges of the boards will have to be made at an angle. It is very important to correctly calculate the degree of each cut so that the edges of the product are even.

However, if, as a result, irregularities are still formed, then the edges of the table will need to be properly sanded. You can also first fasten the boards, and then draw a triangle on the blank and cut the finished product.

If you are making a round table in the living room or a product with rounded edges, then it is recommended to fasten the boards of the future product, and then draw lines of future cuts on the blank with a pencil or chalk.

The finished worktop for such a project will look like this:

Frame as the basis for a robust table

The next step is making a frame for the living room table. The frame is a wooden square (for a square or rectangular table) or a polygon (for a round product), which is fastened to the table top and secures the legs.

Making a frame for a regular table is not difficult, even for a beginner. To do this, turn the table top upside down, measure the canvas, count a few centimeters inward and make marks. Then you can draw a rectangle or square from the marks.

After that, you need to cut off four pieces of wood of such dimensions that correspond to the drawings on the countertop. For the manufacture of the frame, it is recommended to take a rectangular bar. The plank frame may not be strong enough. Then the frame must be attached to the countertop with glue or self-tapping screws. The second option provides a higher reliability of the structure, however, on the surface of the table top, in this case, the caps of the self-tapping screws will be visible.

We make strong and reliable legs

At the next stage in the implementation of an unusual project, you need to make the legs of the table. First, you can cut one leg of the desired height (for the production of legs, it is recommended to use a square bar), and then, using it as a sample, cut off the remaining 3. If you are making a corner table, then there will be not 4 legs, but 3. After the cutting process is completed, follow clamp all the legs together and cut them so that they are the same length.

At the next stage of work, the legs need to be sanded with a grinder or sandpaper. But the top and bottom of the products should not be sanded, as you can spoil the correct cut angle. Then you need to attach the legs. To do this, the table can be turned upside down.

The first leg should be placed in one of the corners of the frame in such a way that the upper cut touches the table top, and the two sides of the leg are adjacent to the frame. Then the contact lines of the parts must be liberally greased with glue and connected using fastening screws that are screwed through the table frame. It is advisable to make holes for the screws in advance so that the screws do not split the wood during the screwing process.

It is better to refuse the use of nails and a hammer in the manufacture of a standard or corner table, since nails can split wood, and using a hammer requires special skill from the manufacturer. In addition, screws hold wood better than nails and can be removed from the product if necessary.

Be sure to ensure that the legs are attached to the table at the correct angle. One of the advantages of screws is that they are easily adjustable. Their position can be easily changed if necessary. Then the same operations should be carried out with the rest of the legs. It is also possible to screw the legs through the worktop, but in this case there is a risk of splitting the top of the legs. And the aesthetics of the living room table will suffer from this.

When the glue is completely dry, you need to check the product for stability, strongly loosening it. However, if you have made a corner table, then this step can be skipped. It will be in contact with two walls of the living room or study, and this will give it additional strength. Then all that remains is to grind the surface of the finished product and cover it with wood varnish or special paint. This concludes the work. Now you can complement the interior of your apartment or garden with a wonderful product.