Composition of the underfloor heating cake, laid on the sand. Installation recommendations and options. We insulate the floor: we make the right cake How to make a pillow under a warm floor

Externally similar to the slab foundation, the floor structure on the ground is less massive and cheaper to manufacture. Instead of two reinforcing meshes, one wire mesh is used; stiffeners are needed only under heavy partitions. The floor on the ground is not a supporting structure, it is created exclusively for the installation of floor coverings.

Layered flooring scheme on the ground.

In the classic scheme of a concrete floor on the ground, a correct and complete pie from several layers with insulation is laid:

• sand;
• geotextile;
• crushed stone layer 0.4 m;
• footing;
• waterproofing;
• insulation;
• concrete screed with a wire mesh in its lower third, separated from the base, grillage or foundation by a damper tape along the perimeter.

Depending on the layout of the building, soil conditions and compliance with technologies, the composition of the floor on the ground may vary. For example, on coarse sandy soil, sand and geotextiles are not needed.

The foundation can be replaced with a leveling layer of sand over the rubble. To reduce the construction budget under the partitions, the foundation is often not poured, therefore, stiffeners reinforced with reinforcing cages appear in the floors along the ground. In any case, before starting the manufacture of the floating screed, it is necessary to prepare the existing base and plan it in a single horizontal level.

Preparation of the base

Despite the fact that concrete is the most durable structural material, swelling of soils and subsidence of the base are dangerous for screeds. Therefore, the arable layer in the building spot should be completely removed: black soil or gray soil is saturated with organic matter, which will rot, after which the whole cake will sag, moreover, unevenly in some areas, cracks will open in the screed, or the concrete floor will collapse along the ground.

For communications, it is necessary to dig trenches with a slope, bring them outside the foundation and near the walls inside the house.

Distribution of engineering systems.

Important! The correct floor on the ground is made in the form of a floating screed, separated from the elements of the foundations and plinths by a damping layer. It is forbidden to rest the slab on the protruding parts of the indicated structures.

Separating layer

In order to avoid mutual mixing of the layers of the floor cake on the ground with the soil of the base, the pit is lined with non-woven material (geotextile or dornite). The edges of the separating layer web are launched onto the side surface and pressed against with bricks and wall blocks. An additional function of geotextiles is to prevent weed roots from growing through the concrete floor on the ground during operation.

Advice! Geotextiles with a density of 100 g / m 2 can be laid under the floating screed, since the structure is considered not responsible, in contrast to slab foundations, which require needle-punched material with a density of 200 g / m 2.

Underlying layer

The cake of the concrete floor on the ground must rest on a hard layer to avoid soil subsidence. Therefore, depending on soil conditions, non-metallic materials are used:

Less commonly, natural soil is used (coarse sand or gravelly soil). If the developer has expanded clay after dismantling the building or this material is cheaper in the region than crushed stone, this material is also suitable as an underlying layer.

Advice! A prerequisite is a high-quality compaction of every 15 cm of the underlying layer with a vibrating plate or manual rammer. It is not recommended to spill sand with water; the material should be moistened from a watering can before filling and compaction.

Foundation

The classic cake of a floor on concrete ground includes a screed from a lean mixture of B7.5. It is necessary to solve several problems:

However, to reduce the construction budget, the foundation is replaced with other technologies:

Important! The concrete is not reinforced, but it must be separated from the elements of the foundation or basement along the perimeter with a damper layer (pieces of expanded polystyrene on the edge or a special tape).

Waterproofing and insulation

The next step is to isolate the cake from moisture, prevent heat loss in the floors and keep the geothermal heat underneath the building. For this, waterproofing and insulation are used. Their relative position within the construction pie is as follows:

The main mistake of developers is laying a vapor barrier on top of expanded polystyrene:

• the air temperature in the room is always higher than in the ground under the screed (true for heated rooms);
• therefore, when laying a floor covering that does not have vapor barrier properties (floorboard, parquet, cork), the direction of steam will always be from top to bottom;
• the vapor barrier membrane will accumulate moisture on the surface, inside the cake, at the insulation / concrete border;
• the screed will collapse and the wire mesh inside it will corrode.

Apart from an unreasonable increase in the construction budget, this scheme does not provide any advantages. The accumulation of harmful gas - radon under floors on the ground is impossible, since there is no underground in this structure.

Materials can be used as waterproofing:

• welded roll - Technonikol, Gidrostekloizol, Bikrost or roofing material;
• film - made of polyvinyl chloride or polyethylene;
• membranes - have a high density and strength, can be installed without making a foundation.

• mixture Admix - an additive is added to concrete when mixing, the construction material becomes moisture-proof;
• Penetron - the floor on the ground is processed AFTER concreting, the effect is similar to the previous one.

For these waterproofing materials, a footing is also not needed.

Of all the existing insulation materials, the best option for a floor on the ground is high-density extruded polystyrene foam of XPS or EPS (for example, Penoplex). The thickness of the layer depends on the climate of the region of operation, it is 5 - 20 cm. The sheets are stacked with a mixture of joints in adjacent rows, large gaps are filled with polyurethane foam similar in properties.

Damper layer

It is forbidden to rigidly connect the floors on the ground with the elements of the basement or foundation, therefore, around the perimeter, it is necessary to install expanded polystyrene strips on the edge, pressing them against the vertical enclosing structures. However, more often a special damper tape made of latex, rubber or foamed polymers with an adhesive layer is glued to the walls.

Important! The height of the interception layer should be slightly higher than the thickness of the floating screed. After the concrete has hardened, the material is cut with a knife, the junction points are decorated with a plinth after laying the floor covering.

Floating screed

The main nuances of floor concreting on the ground are:

• pouring in one step is recommended;
• plots larger than 50 m 2 (relevant for studio rooms, sheds and garages) should be separated with a special corner to create expansion joints;
• internal load-bearing walls and heavy partitions must be erected on a separate foundation;
• partitions from gypsum plasterboard / gypsum plasterboard must be partially erected so that moisture, when the screed dries, is not absorbed into drywall or gypsum fiber sheet, destroying these materials;
• it is preferable to pour over plaster beacons or profiles installed in a single horizontal level on quick-drying filler mortars for gypsum plasterboard systems;
• the thickness of the screed is 5 - 20 cm, depending on the operational loads and the planned floor covering, as well as the need to embed underfloor heating pipes.

Partial construction of plasterboard partitions is carried out according to the technology:

• installation of racks and horizontal jumpers;
• sheathing them at the junctions of the floor on the ground with strips of plasterboard 10 - 20 cm high along the entire length.

For the floor on the ground, you can use ready-mixed concrete B12.5 and higher, the filler is gravel, dolomite or granite crushed stone. Reinforcement of the screed is made at the lower level with a wire mesh.

Important! If the technology is violated, it is planned to support heavy partitions on the screed; in the places where they pass, stiffeners are needed, which are created by analogy with the USP slab (insulated Swedish foundation floating slab).

Reinforcement of the floor along the ground

The industry produces a welded wire mesh ВР according to GOST 8478 from 5 mm wire with a square mesh of 10 - 20 cm. Self-knitting on site is more expensive due to the high consumption of knitting wire and increased labor intensity. The grids are laid according to the technology:

Unlike reinforcing meshes, wire cards have a much lower rigidity, walking on them when laying the mixture is strictly prohibited. Therefore, the following methods are applied:

• ladders - halves of bricks are laid in the mesh cells, on which the boards rest, which are moved along with the gaskets as the structure is ready;
• "Paths" - concrete is piled from the entrance of the room to the far corner, after which you can walk along these paths without displacing the grid.

Small rooms usually use appropriately sized grid maps. If the room has a complex configuration, you need to cut additional pieces. In this case, and when reinforcing large areas, the overlap of cards / rolls is at least one cell.

Stiffeners under the partitions

To create stiffeners under the partitions, intermittent laying of extruded polystyrene foam or its top layer is used. Reinforcement cages made of square clamps (smooth reinforcement 4 - 6 mm) and longitudinal rods ("corrugated" 8 - 12 mm) are placed in the formed voids.

Underfloor heating contours

Warm floors are used to reduce energy consumption in the heating boiler and increase the comfort of living. Their contours can be embedded in the screed by laying the pipes directly on the reinforcement mesh.

To connect to the collectors, the underfloor heating pipes are led out near the wall. In this place, they must be pasted over with a damper tape. A similar expansion joint technology is required for all communications passing through the screed (heating risers, hot water / cold water supply).

Thus, the composition of the floor on the ground can be modified depending on the construction budget and specific operational and soil conditions.

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But it is not devoid of a number of disadvantages. If you forget to make air vents in the strip foundation (or incorrectly calculate their cross section), then over time this can lead to problems. Due to insufficient ventilation of the underground, wooden logs become covered with fungus, mold and rot. Excess moisture in the basement also leads to the destruction of the concrete floor slabs of the first floor.

To avoid this, you can replace traditional air vents with a closed ventilated underground. This is discussed in detail in the article. "Do we need air vents in the basement" ... But there is another option - to abandon the underground and build a floor on the ground on the basis of a strip foundation, as the FORUMHOUSE experts advise.

Floors on the ground: what is itsuch

This structure is a monolithic concrete base (screed). Here is the device of the floor on the ground: the screed is poured inside the perimeter of the strip foundation on well-rammed soil, with which the sinuses of the foundation and a layer of insulation are poured. Together with the concrete base, an underfloor heating system can be installed. This design accumulates heat, therefore it is well suited as an element of an energy efficient home.

Composition of the floor on the ground for a residential building.

There are the following options for floors on the ground:

1. On the prepared base (well-compacted soil), a floor slab is poured, rigidly connected to the strip foundation;
2. A floor slab is poured onto the prepared base, not connected to the strip foundation, the so-called "floating" screed.

Let's take a closer look at the pros and cons of these options.

Mihail1974:

- If you pour in the "floating" screed, then the construction of the tape and the floor is "untied". If shrinkage occurs, the construction of the floor screed on the ground will "play" regardless of the foundation, no cracks will appear in the structure, because no stress. This is a plus. But there is also a minus - the structure "lives its own life", separate from all other structures.

Floor device on the ground.

With a rigid structure, the foundation / screed assembly works as a whole. The screed will not shrink, because lies on the foundation. But if the soil is not compacted well enough, after a while it may sink, and the screed will "hang" in the air. Under heavy load, if there are walls, partitions, supporting elements on the screed, this can lead to deformation of the base, cracks and loss of bearing capacity of the entire floor structure along the ground.

How to make a floor on the ground

Both screed options have both pros and cons. What quality concrete floors will be on the fill soil largely depends on the quality of the compaction of the fill soil and on how correct the structure will be.

Mihail1974:

- When pouring a "floating" screed, the "foundation wall / screed" assembly must really be untied, otherwise the structure may become pinched in the tape frame. Those. the floor inside the frame of the tape must move relatively freely, otherwise the whole meaning of the floating screed is lost.

To do this, a damper is made between the screed and the foundation (wall) of an elastic material that restores its original shape after removing the load - in this case, it is appropriate to place an isolon 8-10 mm thick. This will allow the concrete screed to float freely and compensate for its thermal expansion.

A common mistake is to tie all the nodes as tightly as possible. As a result, increased loads appear in structures. In the case of a floating screed, the "floor" and "foundation" elements work independently of each other.

Floor on the ground: device.Basic principles

An important rule: a well-prepared base is the key to a long service life of the entire structure. The backfill base (the best backfilling of the floor on the ground is sand) must be spilled with water and carefully tamped in layers of 10-15 cm.

Due to the filling of crushed stone, a local impact occurs when the ramming is driven through it, as a result of which there is a deep compaction of the soil layers lying at the lower levels. It is worth building attention on the correct method of compaction of sand.

- In all instructions for vibrating plates it is written that the plate ramps sand to a depth of 20-30 cm, but how well this layer is compacted, I doubt that it is enough. Therefore, I believe that for reassurance, it is better to tamp the sand in layers of about 10 cm.It looks like this:

• We spread the sand in a layer of 10-15 cm;
• We pass on the sand with a vibrating plate "dry";
• We spill the sand with water from a hose. It is necessary to do this not with a stream of water, so as not to break the layer, but through a spray nozzle;

It is necessary to spill water so that the sand is wet, but not oversaturated with moisture. If the amount of water is too large, then the sand base is practically not rammed.

• We pass on the moistened sand with a vibrating plate 2 times with a change in the orientation of movement;
• Spill the sand with water again;
• We pass on the moistened sand with a vibrating plate 2-3 more times with a change in the orientation of movement.

What kind of waterproofing to put on the floor on the ground

After thorough preparation of the base, we proceed to laying the waterproofing and vapor barrier, which will protect the floor structure from moisture. It is often asked whether it is necessary to make a foundation before laying this layer. After all, the welded or glued waterproofing, in order to avoid its damage, must be laid on an even hard base.

Ground floors are arranged in individual residential buildings, baths and utility rooms with all types of foundations, with the exception of columnar ones. On any ground, you can make a dry and warm floor. It is a reliable, practical and durable design.

The main disadvantage of floors on the ground is large financial costs and the time required for their manufacture. Requirements are also made to the soil: it should not be too loose, the standing of groundwater is no closer than 5–6 m.

The layered structure of a warm floor on the ground should provide sound and thermal insulation, prevent the penetration of groundwater, not accumulate water vapor in the floor layers and create comfortable conditions for residents.

Concrete floors

Concrete floors on the ground do not provide for a basement or space under the floor for ventilation.

Important! When arranging concrete floors on the ground with a close standing of groundwater, it should be borne in mind that their level can change within a short time. This must be taken into account when laying the layers.

A classic floor on any soil consists of 10 layers:

Layers that protect from groundwater and distribute the load

1. Compacted clay pillow. It is necessary to stop the rise of groundwater. If, after removing a layer of soil, you get to the clay, then it must be properly prepared. The clay layer cuts off the penetration of ground water upward.
2. Sand pillow. Its purpose is also to prevent the ingress of groundwater and equalize the load on the ground. The sand weakens the capillary rise of water and evenly distributes the pressure of the layers above it on the ground. Any sand will do.
3. Large crushed stone. This is a kind of drainage, its purpose is to make the base solid, to distribute the load. It generally does not allow water to flow upward due to its capillary property. Crushed stone is used in fractions of 40–60 mm.

The first three layers should be arranged in this order, each with a thickness of 10 cm in the compacted state. The layers must be compacted.

Advice. It is difficult to compact a thick layer of sand or clay manually, therefore, when filling such a layer, you need to successively add and tamp thinner layers (10-15 cm).

1. Waterproofing layer (roofing material or polyethylene film). It is placed directly on the crushed stone, and it serves both to protect the crushed stone from the concrete solution flowing into it from above, and as an obstacle to the penetration of water vapor into the concrete layer from below. The film is laid with a whole sleeve (without cutting) with an overlap, put on the walls, gluing the overlap with tape.
2. Rough screed 80 mm and thicker. For it, you should take washed sand and fine gravel (10–20 mm). Steel fiber is added to the solution or reinforcement is used. For the screed to be ready for the next stages of work, it must be kept for a certain time.
3. Waterproofing layer (coating, roll or film waterproofing). If the first layers are laid correctly and efficiently, for waterproofing, you can use a roofing material without powder in 1-2 layers or a film with a thickness of at least 120 microns. The waterproofing layer must be monolithic. If roofing material is used, the overlaps are coated with bitumen mastic, the overlaps of the plastic film are glued with tape.
4. Insulation. You can insulate the floor with expanded clay, extruded polystyrene foam, foam. The thickness of polystyrene plates and polystyrene sheets depends on climatic conditions, but not less than 5 cm. Expanded clay is covered with a layer of 15 cm.
5. Waterproofing. It is recommended to install waterproofing on expanded clay or other insulation. This will protect the insulation from moisture from the upper layers and improve its thermal insulation properties. At this stage, a thick polyethylene film is used, which is laid in a continuous layer.
6. The screed is fine. It can house underfloor heating (hot water heating circuits, cable mats or heating cable). A layer of finishing screed is poured 50 mm or more. It is reinforced using composite or steel reinforcement, fiber is added to the solution.
7. Finish coating. If all layers are made in the specified order, you can lay any coverings.

Pros and cons of concrete floors on the ground

Advantages

• They reliably protect the room from the cold. No matter what the weather is outside the window, the ground will always be warm.
• Any insulation and waterproofing materials are applicable, as well as any coatings for finishing the floor.
• The main load is distributed over the ground, no additional calculations need to be done. If a heavy load is expected, you just need to increase the thickness of the bottom three layers.
• It is possible to organize the heating of the house through the floor, which will quickly heat up and distribute heat evenly, preventing drafts.
• Protect the house from mold and microorganisms.

disadvantages

• It is required to take into account the location of the groundwater level.
• They can significantly reduce the height of the room with certain design features of the house.
• The technology is not applicable for pile and columnar foundations.
• If a system malfunctions, repairing and dismantling it is a very time-consuming and costly undertaking.
• The installation of floors is a long and complex procedure in terms of the volume of work, as well as costly in finance, it is best to do this work when building a house.

How to make a concrete floor yourself on the ground

It is best to remove the soil and fill the first three layers immediately after the foundation of the house. First, calculations are made to what depth the soil needs to be removed. The level of the finished floor is taken as the zero mark. Add up the dimensions for the thickness of each layer, for example:

• laminate + substrate -1.5 cm;
• screed + waterproofing - 6 cm;
• thermal insulation + waterproofing - 6–11 cm;
• concrete screed 8–10 cm;
• crushed stone, sand, clay - 15 + 15 + 10 cm;

The total value is 61.5 cm. If the layers are thicker, the soil will have to be removed to a greater depth. Add 5 cm to the resulting depth.

A hole is dug over the entire area of ​​the building to the calculated depth and the soil is removed. For the convenience of subsequent work, the levels of the floor layers are marked on the walls of the foundation along the entire perimeter. This will make it easier to align them. The soil does not necessarily contain clay; for clarity, we give the procedure for working on soil that does not have a layer of clay.

Floors on the ground: preparation and pouring

Clay.

Any clay is poured with a layer thickness of at least 10 cm. It is leveled and poured abundantly with weak liquid glass (solution of 1 part of glass in 4 parts of water). The wet layer is tamped with a cut of a bar 200x200mmx1.5 m. On a large area, you can use a vibratory rammer or vibro-compacting machine by renting it. If, as a result of compaction, the layer turned out to be thinner, the clay is poured and compacted again.

Advice: a durable rammer can be made from a cut of a channel (20x30 cm) by welding a piece of metal pipe to it, into which sand is poured to make it heavier.

Clay is one of the layers of the concrete floor

The leveled compacted clay layer is poured with cement milk (2 kg of cement are stirred in 10 liters of water) so that there are no puddles, and left for a day so that the process of chemical interaction of cement with liquid glass is completed completely. It is not recommended to walk on it at this time.

Sand

Trying not to walk on the prepared clay layer, sand is poured over 15 cm. You can walk on it. It is leveled and also compacted to the appropriate mark on the wall of the house's foundation.

Crushed stone

It is poured onto the sand and also carefully compacted with a rammer. Particularly carefully align the crushed stone in the corners, tamping it tightly. As a result, you should get a flat horizontal surface.

Polyethylene film

Uncut sleeves are laid with an overlap of 10–15 cm, and placed on the walls by 3–5 cm. The overlaps are carefully glued with tape. It is recommended to move in shoes with soft soles, taking care not to damage the film with sharp edges of pieces of rubble. Although experts claim that this is just a technological technique, the film also performs its waterproofing functions.

Rough screed

For her, you can order ready-made "skinny" concrete or make your own mortar by mixing M500 cement with crushed stone and sand in a volume ratio of 1: 4: 3. Metal fiber is also added to the mixture in the amount of 1–1.5 kg per 1 m 3 of solution. The mortar can be poured by aligning with lighthouses or with marks on the walls of the foundation. It should be borne in mind that the flat horizontal surface of the rough screed will simplify the further stages of the flooring.

Two days later, the concrete is ironed with a mixture (10: 1) of water with liquid glass and dry cement. They do it like this: moisten the entire surface of the screed with a roller or spray gun, then sprinkle it with a thin layer of dry cement and rub it with a float into the concrete. Such a technique will increase the strength of concrete by an order of magnitude and increase its resistance to water. The screed requires at least 1.5 months to fully mature, but subsequent work can be carried out after 1–2 weeks.

Waterproofing

The prepared rough screed is covered with liquid bitumen (primer), especially carefully smearing the corners and capturing 5 cm of the walls. On such a base treated with bitumen, strips of roofing material are glued with an overlap of 10 cm and an overlap of 5 cm of the walls. In places of overlap, the strips are heated with a hairdryer or coated with bituminous mastic.

The strips of the second layer are placed with a shift of half a strip in the same way. Roofing material is especially carefully glued in the corners of the room. When performing this type of work, it is recommended to walk on the floor in shoes with soft soles.

Thermal insulation

The purpose of this layer is clear. The best material in this case will be extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) plates. A 5 cm thick sheet of this heat insulator in its effectiveness replaces expanded clay, covered with a layer of 70 cm. The material practically does not absorb water and has a high compressive strength.

In order for the EPS sheets to serve more efficiently, they are recommended to be laid in 2 layers, each of them 3 cm thick, shifting the joints by 1/3 or 1/2 sheets. This will completely eliminate cold bridges and improve the thermal insulation properties of the insulation. The joints of the EPSP boards in each layer should be glued with special tape.

If expanded clay or mineral wool is used as insulation, an additional layer of waterproofing material, for example, polyethylene film, will be required to protect the insulation from the moisture of the finishing screed.

Finishing screed

Along the perimeter of the room, a damper tape 1.5–2.0 cm is fixed to the walls to the entire height of the screed. The end of the damper tape is fixed on the insulation plates. The screed is reinforced with a 3mm masonry mesh with a mesh size of 100x100. If you plan to install a warm electric floor, a reflective waterproofing material is placed on the EPSP sheets. When installing water heating circuits, the thickness of the screed will be needed more, the water heating pipes must be in the thickness of the screed.

The reinforcing mesh is positioned so that it is in the screed and does not protrude onto its surface. To do this, use stands, pieces of wooden bars, metal profiles or, for example, corks from plastic bottles. The combination of fittings and leveling beacons is a rather difficult task, therefore it is recommended to pour the screed along the mark on the walls, and then pour a thin layer of the self-leveling self-leveling floor over it.

For screed, use ready-made dry mixtures or prepare a solution from river washed sand and cement in a ratio of 3: 1. The work is done quickly. The screed will harden for 4–5 days, and its final readiness will be in a month. The use of ready-made mixtures with special additives will accelerate the maturation process of the screed. Its readiness is checked with a paper napkin, laid on the floor and covered with a sheet of polyethylene. If the napkin remains dry after a day, the screed is ready for applying a self-leveling mixture and installing topcoats.

Wooden floor on the ground on logs

In private houses, wooden floors are most often made. There are several reasons for this:

• in frame houses, the wooden floor is a continuation of the general structure of the building;
• wood is a natural material that is safe for the health and life of the residents of the house. Certain types of wood have a beneficial effect on health;
• wood is easy to handle and lay even for a beginner in construction work;
• wood treatment with antiseptics significantly increases its service life;
• the floors are easy to repair and open if necessary.

The device of a wooden floor on the ground in a private house on the first floor is quite feasible with your own hands. The floor can be insulated, communications, basement can be hidden under it. It is laid on logs, which can be mounted when tying the strip foundation.

As a lag, logs sawn into two halves are used, bars with an aspect ratio of 1: 1.5, double thick boards of coniferous trees. If the logs were not mounted when tying the foundation, they can be placed on prepared soil or on brick posts on a concrete base.

Logs are placed at a distance that is determined by the thickness of the floorboard. So, if the board is 50 mm, the logs are installed after 100 cm, if the board is 35 mm, the logs are placed after 60 cm. The first and last logs are installed at a distance of 20 cm from the wall, the rest are placed between them. If the distance between the lags is slightly greater than required, then the number of lags is increased, and the extreme ones do not shift. If the room is rectangular, the logs are laid along the long wall. For a square room, there is not much difference.

Installation of logs on the ground (cold floor without underground)

The work is performed in the following order:

1. They calculate to what depth the soil should be removed, based on the thickness of the log, layers of sand, crushed stone, clay or expanded clay.
2. They remove the completely fertile layer of the earth and dig deeper, based on the calculated depth. The remaining soil is well leveled and compacted over the entire area of ​​the future floor. Compaction should be done with a tamper. On large areas, you can use a vibrator to compact the soil.
3. Any sand is poured with a layer of 15 cm or more and the same layer of crushed stone (or construction debris) and rammed. If the house is on clay soil, a layer of clay is poured and rammed, and then sand and crushed stone are successively placed on it. If the soil is sandy, then you can fill in a layer of calcined sand or slag ventilated for at least a year. You can pour a layer of expanded clay. The thickness of all layers of the fill should be approximately three times the height of the log. All layers are carefully leveled and tamped.
4. On the leveled top layer (sand, slag or expanded clay), lags treated with an antiseptic are installed, they are sunk into the bedding and ram well around. The upper level of the log should be located so that the floor boards are in the right position. The lags are attached to the foundation or the lower crown.
5. Floor boards are mounted on the logs.

Logs on brick posts (warm floor with underground)

Usually logs are installed on posts stacked in 2 bricks (25x25 cm).

• Fertile soil is removed, the remaining soil is leveled and tamped.
• Carry out a marking of the locations of the posts for the logs (in the event that the logs are not installed when tying the foundation). The height of the posts depends on which part of the wall the logs will rest on. It can be a bar of the first row or a grillage (covered with roofing material, a bar for strapping the foundation).
• Pull the cords so that they are located above the center of all the planned posts, and pegs are driven into the ground at an equal distance from the cords to the width of the brick posts (25 cm in each direction).

Bases for posts

In the marked places, holes are dug 40x40 cm in size and 15–25 cm deep on rocky or sandy soil and up to 45 cm on clay and loose soils. A layer of sand of 10 cm and a layer of crushed stone of a coarse fraction of 10 cm are successively poured into deep pits and rammed.

Advice: If the water table is close, the holes can be filled with a 20–25 cm layer of clay and tamped down (this is a clay castle).

• The bottom of the pits is covered with plastic wrap or roofing felt.
• The concrete base under the brick posts is poured so that it protrudes 5 cm above the level of the compacted soil. For this, formwork is installed from boards (about 5 cm high above the ground) and reinforcement in the pits. As reinforcement, you can use wire or mesh with 10x10 cm cells.
• Concrete is poured (cement: sand: crushed stone (fr. 5-10 mm) = 1: 3: 2-3 and water to a thick consistency) and left to mature for several days.

Making posts

• Roofing material is laid on a concrete base in 1-2 layers so that it protrudes 1-2 cm beyond the edges.
• Brick posts in 2 bricks are laid out strictly vertically (along a plumb line) on roofing material so that the last layer of bricks is perpendicular to the direction of the log. To obtain a solution, cement M100 and sand are mixed in a volume ratio of 1: 3 and water is added by eye.
• Roofing material is placed on the column and a lining made of antiseptic treated plywood or square OSB board is placed on it, so that it protrudes 2 cm beyond their edges.

Installation and alignment lag

Lags are installed on these pads. Aligning the lag is a long and painstaking work. For this, pads are used or part of the support is cut off. As a result, all lags should be at the same level.

Aligned, they are attached to the posts with corners, and to the elements of the walls or foundation - with special fastening systems used for the construction of frame houses. Holes are pre-drilled in the concrete and dowels are inserted.

Floor installation

The last stage of the process is the installation of the floor.

• For a floor with insulation, bars of 30x50 or 50x50 mm are attached to the lower part of the log, on which a rough floor is laid from a thin unedged board 20 mm thick.
• A vapor barrier (vapor barrier membrane) is laid on the sub floor.
• A soft insulation (mineral wool) is placed on the membrane, so that its sheets fit tightly between the logs and tightly adjoin one another, not reaching about 2 cm to the top of the log.
• Floor boards are laid on the logs.

DIY floors on the ground

The simplest and most affordable way to make a rough coating for a room for any purpose is to arrange a concrete floor on the ground. Although the procedure does not require special skills, the quality of the final floor is directly dependent on the observance of certain technical points related to its arrangement. We will consider further how to make a concrete floor on the ground and how to pour a concrete floor on the ground.

Characteristics and components of the concrete floor on the ground

When arranging any floor on the ground, the main thing is to ensure its high-quality thermal insulation. It is precisely because of its installation that, as a result, it is possible to obtain a multi-layer floor, called a pie.

The production of floors on the ground directly depends on the type of soil and its characteristics. The first and most important requirement for the ground is the level at which the groundwater is laid, which should be at least 500-600 cm from the surface. Thus, it will be possible to avoid movements and heaving of the soil, which will be reflected on the floor. In addition, the soil should not be loose.

For a better performance of all work, the requirements for the installation of thermal insulation should be determined, which are as follows:

• prevention of heat loss;
• protection against groundwater penetration;
• providing sound insulation;
• prevention of vaporization;
• providing a comfortable and healthy indoor climate.

A warm concrete floor on the ground contains the following components and stages of work:

1. Cleansing the soil from the top layer. In addition, the surface is carefully leveled.

3. Then a cushion of gravel or crushed stone is placed on the sand. It is this area that prevents the rise of groundwater, in addition, it additionally levels the surface. The filler layer is about eight centimeters thick.

4. The next layer is reinforced steel mesh. It is an excellent fixer for concrete substrates. In addition, it is a place for fixing metal pipes. Reinforced mesh is not used in all cases, but only when additional reinforcement is required.

5. The next layer is more than 5 cm thick and is the subfloor. For its arrangement, a concrete solution is used. After it gains strength for 2-3 weeks, the next layer of "cake" is set on the surface.

6. This layer contains a special membrane or waterproofing film that prevents the risk of absorption of excess liquid by the concrete base. The film is laid with an overlap, in order to avoid the appearance of gaps, construction tape is used, with which all butt areas are glued.

7. The next stage is the installation of insulation, which is recommended to use foamed polystyrene foam material or high density polystyrene coated with foil. If there is too much load on the floor, it is better to use insulation in the form of slabs.

8. Next, a waterproofing or roofing material is installed. After which the construction of an earnest screed is carried out. It is on it that the final finishing coat will be installed. The thickness of this layer is from 8 to 11 cm. This screed requires mandatory reinforcement.

Concrete floor in the house on the ground: advantages and disadvantages of arrangement

Among the advantages of making a concrete floor on the ground should be highlighted:

• ensuring reliable protection of the base from the effects of low temperatures, the soil on which the floor is set up always differs only in temperature above zero;
• a variety of heat-insulating materials for floor insulation allows you to build a structure with good indicators of preventing heat loss;
• the floor that will end up being finished with any of the existing floor coverings;
• no special calculations for the floor are required, since the entire load is taken by the ground covering;
• the arrangement of a warm floor perfectly heats the room, in addition, their heating occurs quickly enough, and the heat is distributed evenly throughout the room;
• warm floor on the ground has good sound insulation characteristics;
• in addition, mold and dampness are practically not formed on such a floor.

Among the disadvantages of a rough concrete floor on the ground are:

• when using a multi-layer floor, the height of the rooms is significantly reduced;
• in the event of malfunctions for dismantling work, a lot of material resources will be required;
• arranging the floor on the ground requires a large investment of material, physical and time resources;
• if the groundwater is located too high or if the soil is very loose, it is not possible to arrange such a floor.

Concrete flooring on the ground: choice of materials

As mentioned earlier, for arranging a concrete floor on the ground, you will need to build a multi-layer structure. The use of river sand is recommended as the first layer, then crushed stone or expanded clay.

After their installation, the installation of a rough screed, waterproofing film and thermal insulation is carried out. Next, a finishing screed is installed, which is the basis for laying the finishing materials.

The main function of sand and crushed stone is to protect the premises from moisture penetration into it.

In the presence of too wet soil, the use of expanded clay is unacceptable. Since it absorbs excess moisture, and then changes its shape. After covering the layer with a polyethylene-based film, a rough screed is poured, with a layer of about eight centimeters. Further, it is equipped with waterproofing of two polyethylene layers, overlapped. Please note that polyethylene must be very tightly connected to each other to prevent moisture from entering the room.

• extruded polystyrene foam;
• mineral wool;
• foam glass;
• foam, etc.

After that, a finishing screed is arranged, which is reinforced without fail. To ensure the evenness of the screed, the use of beacons is recommended.

Concrete floor on the ground manufacturing technology

The floor should be erected only after the walls and roof have already been erected. The procedure for making a concrete pavement on the ground includes the following stages:

• carrying out work to determine the height of the floor and its marking;
• cleaning the top layer of soil and tamping the base;
• installation of gravel or crushed stone;
• hydro and thermal insulation works;
• strengthening the concrete screed;
• installation of formwork for pouring mortar;
• direct filling.

The floor on the ground is built in such a way that it is level with the doorway. Markings should be applied around the perimeter of the building. For this, marks are installed on the walls, at a distance of 100 cm from the bottom of the opening. When the marking is done, you should lower it back one meter. This line will become a guideline for pouring concrete. For easier marking, pegs should be installed in the corner parts of the room, on which the ropes are pulled.

The next stage of work involves cleaning the base from the top layer of soil. First you need to get rid of any debris on the floor. Gradually remove all of the top soil. The concrete floor on the ground has the appearance of a structure, up to 35 cm thick. Therefore, the soil that is removed from the surface must be of exactly this thickness.

With the help of special equipment, such as a vibrating plate, the surface is compacted. In its absence, it is enough to use a wooden log, with handles previously nailed to it. The resulting base should differ in evenness and density. When walking, there should be no marks on it.

With a lower location of the soil in relation to the doorway, only the upper part of it is removed, the surface is well compacted, and then covered with sand.

Further work is carried out on the installation of gravel and crushed stone. After the base layer has been tamped, it is backfilled with gravel, the thickness of this layer is about 10 cm. Tip: After backfilling, the surface is watered with water and tamped down again. To simplify control over the evenness of the surface, it is necessary to drive the pegs into the ground, set in relation to the level.

After the gravel layer, sand is smoothed. The layer should have the same thickness, about 10 cm. In order to control the evenness of the surface, use the same pegs. For the arrangement of this layer, it is recommended to use ravine sand, which has various impurities.

On the sand, crushed stone is laid, with a fraction of 4x5 cm. Then it is compacted, and the surface is sprinkled with sand, leveled and compacted. Lay the gravel so that no protruding edges appear on the surface.

Please note that each of the layers laid on the floor must be checked for levelness beforehand. Therefore, in the process of work, use the building level.

Heat and waterproofing of a concrete floor on the ground

To create a waterproofing layer, it is enough to use a plastic film or membrane. The waterproofing material should be rolled out along the entire perimeter of the floor, try to bring its extreme sections a few centimeters outside the zero markings. The sheets are overlapped and fixed to the surface with adhesive tape.

In order to improve the thermal insulation of the floor and prevent the soil from freezing, it is recommended to treat the floor with mineral wool.

Features of the reinforcement of the concrete floor on the ground

In order for the concrete to acquire the required strength, it should be reinforced. For this process, it is recommended to use a metal or plastic mesh, reinforcement rods or reinforcing wire.

To install the reinforcing frame, you should equip special stands, the height of which is about 2.5 cm. Thus, they will be located directly on the concrete floor.

Please note that the use of a plastic net involves stretching it on previously hammered pegs. When using wire, welding and skill in working with it will be required to make a reinforcing frame.

In order for the pouring procedure to go through quickly, and the result is high-quality, you should install the guides and mount the formwork. Divide the room into several equal segments, the width of which is no more than 200 cm. Install the guides in the form of wooden bars, the height of which is equal to the distance from the floor to the zero mark.

Use a thick cement, clay or sand mortar to fix the rails. A formwork is installed between the guides, which forms the cards that are poured with concrete. It is recommended to use plywood with moisture resistant characteristics or wooden boards as formwork.

Please note that the guides and formwork are zeroed out and aligned in relation to the horizontal surface. Thus, it will be possible to obtain a base that is distinguished by evenness. Before installing the guides and formwork, they should be treated with a special oil, which will facilitate the procedure for pulling them out of the concrete mixture.

Concrete floor pouring technology on the ground

Pouring is carried out once or a maximum of two times. Thus, it will turn out to build a homogeneous and powerful structure. In order for the concrete floor on the ground to serve its owners for a long time with their own hands, it is best to order a special concrete solution from the factory. Its strength and quality is much higher than that of a home-made composition.

For the independent production of the solution, you will need a concrete mixer, cement of a brand not lower than 400, river sand and filler in the form of crushed stone.

In order to prepare a concrete solution, one part of cement, two parts of sand and four parts of filler should be mixed, while, based on the total amount of ingredients, half of the water will be required.

All ingredients are mixed in a concrete mixer, make sure that all ingredients are well mixed together. Start pouring the floor from the area opposite to the entrance to the room. Pour three, four cards at one time, and then use a shovel to smooth the composition over the entire surface.

To ensure good adhesion of the concrete to the surface, the use of a hand held concrete vibrator is recommended.

After most of the maps are filled in, it is necessary to carry out a rough leveling of the surface. For these purposes, you will need a rule, two meters wide, which stretches along the floor with smooth movements. It is the rule that will help get rid of the excess concrete that falls into the blank cards. After leveling, the formwork should be removed and the remaining areas filled with mortar.

After leveling the entire floor area, cover the floor with polyethylene film and leave it for a month. Please note that after a few days, the surface is constantly wetted with water, in order to avoid drying out of the concrete, the formation of cracks and looseness of the base.

The final stage involves processing the floor using self-leveling mixtures, which are used to equip the screed. It is the mixture that will help make the base perfectly even and eliminate minor surface irregularities.

Work also starts from the corner opposite the door, it is recommended to use a shovel for applying the mortar, and a rule to level the base.

The floor is defended for 72 hours. Next, the floor is ready for laying floor finishing materials. It is this type of concrete floors on the ground in a private house that will allow you to get a strong and durable base.

Concrete floors on the ground video:

One of the most important aspects of repair and construction is the arrangement of floors. In a private house, this problem is more acute. Quite often they design a warm floor on the ground - a demanded, popular solution to the issue. After all, it stores heat well, creates comfort, and sometimes replaces heating. To arrange such a coating, the conditions of SNiP, installation rules should be strictly followed, which is associated with soil shrinkage.

Installation of the "warm floor" system

Warm floor on the ground - what is it?

Underfloor heating is like a multi-layer cake, which necessarily contains thermal insulation. The construction of the floor on the ground is done in two stages: a rough screed is poured in the lower layers, and after it has matured, the remaining layers are laid.

The point is in the soil - it has properties to sink. Even when it is caked, tamped, all the same, after laying the "cake" of the warm floor, there are movements, and a rupture of the floor elements may occur. Therefore, first, according to the rules, a rough screed is made, then a warm floor is laid.

Sometimes a heated structure is made without the first screed - the warm floor is laid on the sand. This can be done by installing two reinforcing frames: one under the heat insulator, the other in the screed - it is necessary to carefully tamp the layers of sand, gravel, and soil.

The installation of a heated floor in a building depends on the soil parameters, which must comply with the standards. Groundwater should be no more than 600 cm from the soil layer. It is required that the soil has a low level of looseness, airiness. Construction is prohibited on chernozem soils, sandstones.

It is important to take into account the load that acts on the base. Floor installation provides the following:

1. Thermal insulation.
2. Protection against flooding by groundwater.
3. Elimination of external sounds.
4. Protection against the ingress of water vapor into the floor.
5. Prevention of cracking.
6. Providing comfort to residents.

Floor System Pie Composition

For rooms, premises with an area of ​​20 sq. m use electric, water-based floor heating. For small rooms (bathroom), electric heating is more suitable.

Attention! When arranging and choosing the type of underfloor heating, it should be remembered that a boiler, a collector and much more are required for water heating. To connect the underfloor heating system to the central heating system, special permits are required, since installation into an existing system can lead to its incorrect operation.

By design, the warm floor on the ground consists of several layers, the installation of each is carried out in stages. Despite several methods of laying the structure, there are general rules that are followed in any case:

• Before laying the first layer of the cake, you need to prepare the ground: clean it of debris, various objects, grass cover, level the surface.
• Well compacted sand - 15 cm. A vibrating plate is used to compact the soil. The sand is tamped wet.
• A layer of crushed stone (gravel) 8–15 cm. It does not allow groundwater to rise. Metal mesh that reinforces the screed. Rough concrete screed - 150 mm - with compensation distance between zones. There is a damper tape in between.
• A waterproofing layer to prevent the concrete from absorbing moisture. It is made of film, membrane. The material is overlapped, securing with tape. Bitumen-rubber mastic is also suitable.
• Insulation layer. To do this, use expanded polystyrene foam, foil-clad polystyrene. Plates are used at high loads. The thickness depends on the climate conditions in the region.
• Waterproofing from a film, roofing material is carried out in 1-2 layers.
• Installation of floor pipes, finishing screed with a total thickness of 10 cm with mandatory reinforcement. A water circuit is attached to the mesh.
• Decorative flooring.

The whole process of arranging the layers of the cake according to the technology can take up to 1.5 months.

Advantages, disadvantages of a heated floor

The underfloor heating system has its advantages:

1. Reliably protects from cold. After all, the soil under the floor has a positive temperature.
2. Choose any insulation.
3. A film, roofing material is suitable for waterproofing.
4. The floor is finished with any coating.
5. During the arrangement, the entire load is directed to the ground, so no calculations are required. If the load is increased, the thickness of the cake increases.
6. Changes can be made to the design, such as making the insulation thicker.
7. Underfloor heating is used as the main, additional, heating. Such floors warm up quickly, distribute the temperature evenly, which eliminates the occurrence of drafts.
8. The floors are well soundproofed.
9. Protects against the formation of mold, fungi and other microorganisms.

Despite the large number of advantages, negative aspects should also be noted. Such a floor reduces the height of the room, if the system breaks down, repairs will be expensive, difficult, the location of the groundwater must be taken into account, the process of arranging the system on the ground itself takes a long time (it is advisable to carry out the installation when building a house).

• A warm floor on the ground in a private house can be equipped independently, having studied the entire technology of the processes. First, it is determined to what level the soil should be removed.

Attention! The soil must be removed - it will decompose, "smell" if not removed. Moreover, the top layer is very loose and will settle.

• Regardless of whether the sub-floor will be laid, the soil is removed. The lower layers are dense, as there are no microorganisms, and are under great stress.
• The heated floor can be 20 cm or more thick. Therefore, the markings start from the zero level, that is, where the finished floor is. They make a mark and consider how deep to go down. It is advisable to note the thickness of each layer.
• A dense layer of soil should be carefully leveled, tamped, check its evenness on the level. After all, this is the basis of the following materials. After careful compaction, the sand is also leveled. A layer of expanded clay, crushed stone is compacted to the state of a monolith.
• The first screed is made in two ways: crushed stone with sand is poured with liquid cement-sand mortar, a screed up to 150 mm thick is poured. To reinforce the screed, use a reinforcing mesh or metal wire. The floor is reliable, it can withstand heavy loads.
• The joints of the expanded polystyrene plates are glued with tape so that the solution does not leak.

• Plates are used above 35 kg / cu. meter. For cold regions, its thickness can be more than 10 centimeters. When the thickness of the thermal insulation layer is large, then two layers are made. Moreover, the joints of 1 layer are covered with slabs of 2 layers.

Installation options for a heated floor cake

Installation is carried out in several ways - the choice depends on the flow of groundwater, the type of heating system, loads, and other factors.

The floor cake has a main layer - a concrete sub-floor (it is considered the main one). There is an option when the concrete layer is changed to a sand cushion with a thickness of 150 mm. All work and the sequence of their execution does not change. However, leveling the sand cushion is much more difficult.

Depending on the insulation

The version of the pie varies from the chosen insulation. For example, when choosing expanded polystyrene, laying is carried out as follows:

1. Crushed stone layer - 300 mm.
2. Concrete screed - 150 mm.
3. Waterproofing.
4. Polyurethane foam.
5. Fine screed with steel mesh reinforcement.

When using mineral wool boards, which are considered durable, resistant to deformation, they are laid in two layers. To reduce moisture absorption, the slabs are treated with a water-repellent solution.

With a high location of groundwater

When the subsoil water is close, then the observance of the order of the layers is not enough - it is necessary to divert the water. If the pie underfloor heating on the ground is laid below the level of soil water, then drainage must be done.

Therefore, a drainage system is made at least 30 cm below the required level. They use river sand, other rocks, for example, excavated soil mixed with crushed stone.

Important! For the device of the drainage system, peat rocks of the soil, chernozem cannot be used.

The selected material is poured in layers of 100 mm, which are tamped, spilled with water. Three layers are made, geotextiles are laid on the compacted material. It allows water to pass through without mixing with different materials. It has increased strength, is not damaged by insects, animals, and evens out the load.

Waterproofing is carried out with bituminous mastic (other material), thermal insulation around the perimeter of the floor foundation with expanded polystyrene plates. For reliability, make the main screed, carry out waterproofing with membranes. Next, the remaining layers are laid: heat insulator, fasteners, pipes. It is poured with a screed, the front covering is laid.

Underfloor heating in a private house is a great option that saves time and reduces costs. Competent arrangement of the "pie" of the heated floor provides warmth, home comfort for a long time.

Multilayer "cake" of the "warm floor" system on the sand: