Fertilizers for pepper: means, norms and features of application. How to feed peppers after planting in a greenhouse - the best methods and means How to fertilize peppers after planting

Many growers grow sweet bell peppers and hot chili peppers on their plots. These vegetables are cousins ​​of tomatoes, and their cultivation is very similar. Therefore, for normal growth and high-quality fruiting, they need the same substances, and, accordingly, the same fertilizers.

Fertilization technique

It is important for pepper growers to know that they love loose, oxygenated and nutritious soil.

If the soil is depleted, then pepper seedlings can be fed up to 5 times over the summer.

For healthy growth and a good harvest, pepper needs:

• Water. Plants especially need it in the heat, when it actively evaporates through the stomata of the leaves. We must not forget about regular watering.
• Potassium. This trace element is essential for the development of fruits.
• Nitrogen. Without it, the formation of the green mass of the plant is impossible.
• Phosphorus. It is especially necessary for the plant until it has managed to grow an extensive root system.

Regular feeding is aimed at providing the seedlings with everything they need. Moreover, they can be both basal and foliar.

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Root top dressing

This is the most common way to feed pepper seedlings for growth and abundant fruiting. The first feeding is carried out when preparing ridges for planting seedlings in open ground from a greenhouse. After 2 or 3 weeks, the plants must be fed again, otherwise its growth will slow down significantly. The next fertilization is done no more than once every 3-4 weeks.

Plants absorb nutrients in liquid form faster.

The necessary conditions:

• Cloudy day or light cloudy;
• Low air temperature;
• Evening or morning time of day;
• No strong wind or rain.

The whole plant is sprayed with fertilizer, not forgetting the lower part of the leaves.

It is customary to use soap to fix the fertilizer on the leaves, but oat infusion is much more effective and beneficial for the plant. Ordinary flakes "Hercules" are poured into warm water at the rate of 150-200 grams per 10 liters, mixed and insisted for about an hour. The necessary fertilizers are dissolved in the infusion. However, the infusion itself is already rich in substances useful for pepper. A similar composition will tolerate 2-3 rains.

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Mineral fertilizers

Ash

The most natural mineral fertilizer is wood ash, rich in trace elements. Seeds are soaked in a weak ash solution before planting, it is also often poured into holes prepared for planting. Under each pepper bush, it is enough to pour about a handful of ash, which must be covered with a thin layer of earth before placing the roots in the hole.

To prepare a liquid fertilizer, 100 grams of ash is taken in a bucket of water, which is thoroughly mixed until dissolved. This solution is poured over the furrows between the beds.

Dry fertilizers must be dissolved in water according to the instructions on the label. Concentrated fertilizers that require dilution are often sold in liquid form. On the packaging with the drug, the required dose of the substance for each specific case is always clearly prescribed.

• mineral composition "Malyshok";
• Orton Micro Fe is a complex fertilizer specially developed for seedlings in the phase of 3-4 leaves;
• Ideal is an iron-rich preparation that strengthens plant immunity and stimulates growth;
• "GUMI Kuznetsova" is a drug that stimulates root formation and growth, as well as improves disease resistance.

However, the use of industrial mineral fertilizers is a necessary measure when organic fertilizers are insufficient. When applied excessively, they accumulate in the fruit and can harm.

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Fertilizer for pepper. Preparing the soil for planting pepper. Bell peppers: growing and care in the open field

Peppers and tomatoes are highly fertilizing crops. If you want the plants to please you with an excellent harvest, then from the first days of planting seedlings, you need to make sure that the soil contains all the necessary trace elements for its growth and development. And since they will absorb them quickly and rather diligently, fertilizers for pepper will have to be applied regularly as the seedlings grow.

The main difficulties

When talking with gardeners, you often hear that they stop growing peppers in their area. This is due to some of the difficulties in growing a thermophilic crop in our climatic conditions. Few people know that this is a perennial shrub, but in our country it is cultivated exclusively as an annual plant. Its fruits are loved by everyone, they are used to prepare salads, first and second courses, are sources of vitamins and minerals.

Is it so difficult to grow them in Russia? Let's just say it is possible, subject to a number of rules. We do not take into account the southern regions of the country. This culture has a long growing season, which means that in many regions of the country, planting of seedlings begins in February. This gives the plant a chance to have time to bloom and grow fruits in a short, hot period. In addition, timely weeding and watering, loosening are very important factors. Do not forget to fertilize the soil on time. For pepper, this is one of the foundations of normal life.

We grow seedlings

To get a good harvest, it is necessary to sow seeds in the ground in late January - early February. To do this, you need to prepare the boxes in advance, fill them with soil, water. After a couple of days, you can start planting seeds. The composition of the soil is the same that will be used for subsequent cultivation in open ground, greenhouses or greenhouses. You will need two pieces of land, one peat and one humus. Everything is thoroughly mixed. If you take garden soil, then do not forget to disinfect it with potassium permanganate or exposure to high temperatures.

First feeding

Fertilizer for pepper is a source of life and health. Only in nutrient-rich soil will seedlings grow strong and healthy. This means that she can easily transfer the transplant to open ground and take root without any problems. As soon as the first true leaves appear on the seedlings, it is necessary to apply top dressing. The second stage is two weeks after the pick. The last time the seedlings are fed 10 days before planting in the ground. Further, all activities will be carried out already at the main place of residence.

Best line-up

The ideal fertilizer for peppers during the first weeks of a seedling's life is a complex, nutritious mixture in which the nitrogen content predominates. If you have nowhere to buy it, then you can cook it yourself. There is nothing complicated about it. It is enough to dissolve 1.5 g of potassium salt and 0.5 g of urea, as well as 4 g of superphosphate in one liter of water. This is a starting composition that will enable plants to quickly gain strength and start growing. Top dressing of pepper seedlings is carried out by watering the pre-moistened soil with a nutrient composition.

As soon as the plants release the second and third leaves, it's time to do a pick. Best of all, if it is immediately cups designed for an individual fit. For example, peat.

Immediately after this, the next feeding of pepper seedlings follows. It is best to use urea for this. To do this, dissolve one tablespoon of the substance in 10 liters of clean water. For the third time, immediately before planting in the ground, preparations containing nitrogen and phosphorus are used. In small quantities, the potassium content is acceptable.

Optimal dosage is the key to success

Fertilizers for the growth of pepper seedlings must be supplied to the soil regularly, this is an essential guarantee of good growth and future harvest. Young peppers are the most unpredictable of all garden plants. They can grow and develop normally, and suddenly, in an instant, they begin to dry out. Experienced gardeners say that this is precisely the result of a lack of nutrition. If you urgently apply top dressing, then the situation can still be saved.

It is useful to know what functions this or that substance has. Nitrogen is essential for building up the green mass of the stem, phosphorus - for a powerful root system. But potassium seedlings almost do not use, it will be required much later. But the quantity is a little more difficult to determine. Based on practical experience, the following can be said. As long as the plants are developing well, have thick trunks and well-developed leaves, you can not bother with fertilizing. And as soon as growth retardation is diagnosed, you can correct this situation with a new portion.

We stopped at this point because an inexperienced gardener may decide that granular compost, vermicompost and other "delights", which are now freely sold in country shops, can be poured at the root in unlimited quantities. It is unlikely that plants will die from this, this is a fact, but they will begin to "fatten". That is, you will get a huge bush with lush leaves, which will refuse to bloom and yield. All his energy will go to the formation of green mass. But if you really overfeed, then the leaves will lose their beauty, begin to curl and become fragile.

The main differences in feeding seedlings

You need to apply fertilizer for bell peppers correctly. If in the ground you can simply water the soil, and only then use a watering can to pass the nutrient solution, then you will have to change tactics in the boxes. Here you moisten the soil in the evening, and in the morning you add top dressing. Otherwise, there is a risk of flooding the root system. Fertilization tactics are of two types. In the first case, nutrients are applied under the root, and in the second, they are sprayed over the green leaves. In the case of seedlings, it is the first option that is suitable, since food must reach both the roots and the leaves.

The first nutritious cocktail is prepared in approximately the following proportions: 1 g of urea, 8 g of superphosphate, 3 g of potassium sulfate. This mixture must be dissolved in two liters of water. There is one more trick. Before fertilizing the bell peppers, it is recommended to sprinkle the soil in the pots with ashes. Subsequently, the concentration is doubled. The frequency of application is two weeks.

Choosing a bed

It is best to plan spring plantings in advance, and for this you need to know what conditions the pepper likes. Growing and nursing outdoors is a little easier than growing in pots. The main thing that a southern visitor needs is a warm land with a high humus content. It is best if the composition is sandy loam or loamy. That is, moderately loose. Good moisture is essential, so peat, turf and leaf humus must be added to too light soils. It is best if legumes grew on the selected site last year. But the tomato bed does not fit well, because they have only one pest.

The soil for planting peppers is prepared in advance. From autumn, organic matter must be added to the selected bed. For example, rotted manure. This is the best choice for every gardener. It must be brought in in the amount of 3-4 kg per square meter. Another option is straw with added nitrogen components. These are the best fertilizer options for any type of soil.

Top dressing in the ground

It's time to transplant our young peppers into the garden. Outdoor cultivation and care will be largely determined by weather conditions. If the weather is hot and sunny, then you just have to add the necessary nutrients, as well as carry out regular watering. If it is cool outside, then you will have to organize additional protection in the form of a greenhouse or greenhouse. But more on that later.

The first feeding will be required two weeks after the young peppers have moved to open ground. For this purpose, the following solution is used. For 10 liters, you need to take two teaspoons of carbamide and the same amount of superphosphate. Under each bush, you will need to add about one liter of solution.

Mass flowering period

This is an important point, since right now your future harvest is being laid. The formed ovary will now grow and turn into healthy vegetables. To prevent the flowering from going to waste, it is very important to add potash fertilizers. For peppers, this will be their first introduction since planting. To prepare a nutrient solution, you will need a teaspoon of potassium sulfate, a similar amount of carbamide and two tablespoons of superphosphate. The dosage is similar to the first feeding.

Fruit formation

When flowering is over, a small ovary appears on the bushes. Each of these buds can grow into huge, juicy and tasty peppers. For more intensive growth and development, a third feeding is performed. To do this, for 10 liters of water, you need to take two teaspoons of superphosphate and potassium salt. If the growth of fruits is intensive, then this can be limited. But sometimes the gardener notices that, despite all efforts, the ovary continues to hang on the bushes unchanged, or the plant itself has frozen in growth. If nothing is done, you can stay at the end of the season with tiny green fruits that are only suitable for winter harvesting. An excellent solution would be foliar top dressing with a carbamide solution. A bucket of water will take 30 g. It is best to do this in the evenings, for 5-7 days.

Indoor feeding schedule

Growing plants in a greenhouse has its own specifics. Here the temperature regime is different, which means that the growth of peppers will be more intense. Accordingly, much more nutrients are required. At the same time, do not forget that organic substances contribute to the productive formation of the crop, and minerals are necessary for the proper growth of the plant. The ideal fertilizer for planting peppers is an aqueous solution of poultry manure. Concentration should be low, maximum 1:15. You can also use mullein, here the proportions can be 1:10. These mixtures contain a complete set of nutrients that promote the growth and development of crops. If the soil of the greenhouse has been well manured in the fall, then organic matter can be replaced with potassium sulfate with superphosphate.

Mineral fertilization for greenhouse peppers becomes very important about two weeks after flowering. Now is the time for the active formation and growth of fruits. The best choice would be organic with the addition of mineral fertilizers. By the way, collecting the first fruits does not mean that you can stop caring for plants. The third feeding is done just at this time. The composition can be slightly changed. In some cases, gardeners believe that the above composition is the best fertilizer for peppers. Further fertilizing is necessary only if the soil is very poor. A mixture of superphosphate with mineral fertilizers is best suited here.

Folk remedies

If you are against the use of chemistry, and there is no way to get rotted manure, then you can use other folk remedies. To do this, one tablespoon of wood ash must be dissolved in two liters of hot water. Stir and leave to steep for a day. Now all that remains is to strain and use as directed. As a fertilizer for peppers, ash is a source of essential minerals.

Eggshells can also be used for feeding. To do this, take the shells from two or three eggs, wash and dry. Now grind thoroughly, pour into a three-liter jar of water and let it brew for three days, stirring occasionally. During this time, the water will be enriched with magnesium and iron, calcium and potassium. As a top dressing, this infusion can be used by diluting one to three.

Another great recipe is onion peel tincture. It not only saturates the soil with microelements, but also disinfects it, which is especially useful for young plants. It is very easy to prepare it, for this you need to take 20 g of husk per 5 liters of water and insist for five days. If you love coffee, try not to throw away the grounds throughout the year. It is dried and collected, and then applied to the soil. So it is saturated with nitrogen and oxygen, which is very beneficial for plants. In addition, gardeners recommend stocking dry banana skins. When ground and added to the soil, they are also an excellent source of potassium and other nutrients.

Ready-made nutrient complexes

It is difficult to say which option is optimal. Someone prefers to grow their plants exclusively on natural supplements, such as mullein or bird droppings. Others, from early spring, have been stocking up on industrial solutions, powders and tablets, which it is enough to dilute in water and add to the ground. Complex fertilizer for tomato and pepper seedlings can be purchased in liquid form or in granules. Trademarks may have different names, but the essence remains the same. Check out the composition. If it contains nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, then this is exactly the mineral complex that you need. For pepper, the percentage should be N: P: K% 12.5: 17.5: 25. When preparing the soil, fertilizer in the amount of 20-30 g per 1 square meter is evenly scattered over the surface of the earth, and then dug up.

The second stage opens during the growing season. Now the plants are additionally fed with a half dose. That is, 10 g per square meter is already used. The agent is introduced into damp ground and evenly distributed around, embedding in the soil. In addition, the fertilizer is applied in the form of a solution. To do this, you need to take 10 g of powder for seedlings and 20 g for adult plants. A small amount of insoluble residue is acceptable. For seedlings, it is recommended to alternate feeding with one watering with plain water. For adult plants, it is permissible to use it at every watering.

Instead of a conclusion

Pepper is a rather capricious crop, so in order to get a good harvest, the gardener must provide all the conditions for it. The southern plant loves hot weather and abundant watering, as well as nutritious soil. If the first two factors strongly depend on the climatic conditions of the region, then the third is entirely up to you. The choice of dressings differs in the preferences of the gardener himself. You can ask a neighbor, a farmer, for humus, supplement it with wood ash and forest humus, and you will get excellent nutrition for your plants. Or you can just buy a special solution or granules in the store, which will be enough in excess for the entire season.

And finally, some advice from experienced gardeners. After harvesting, plant the bed in which you plan to plant the peppers with regular barley next season. As soon as the first greenery appears, mow it with a sickle and leave it on the ground. This will enrich the soil with nodule bacteria and make it healthier.

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Feed pepper seedlings

Is it really necessary to feed pepper seedlings? Is additional feeding of seedlings at the initial stages of development justified? Why waste time and energy on operations that you can do without? Such questions are increasingly of interest not only to novice vegetable growers, but also to those who have been growing this crop for a long time.

Feed or not?

Numerous publications intended for gardeners and owners of personal subsidiary plots offer very contradictory answers. A significant part of the authors believe that seedlings should be grown in relatively poor soil in order to avoid stretching and overgrowing. Overfed with fertilizers, especially nitrogen, seedlings begin to rapidly develop aerial parts, often reaching unacceptably large sizes long before the planned transplant. And the lack of light, which is inevitable in the first spring months, provokes an unnatural elongation of the stems, which significantly reduces the quality of future plants.

Other experts give exactly the opposite recommendations, advising to feed the seedlings of peppers with nutrient solutions every 10 to 15 days during the entire growing period, until the very planting. They say that without this it will grow weak and unviable, will take root for a long time and bloom poorly.

Inevitably, you will wonder who you need to listen to. Especially if your own experience in growing seedlings was not particularly successful or is completely absent.

According to the majority of gardeners-practitioners who annually receive their own seedlings of peppers, it all depends on the choice of soil - the substrate in which the seedlings will develop. If the composition of the nutrients in it is correctly selected, that is, the soil is intended for growing this particular crop, additional fertilizing may not be needed at all. Or a minimum number of them will be required. But those who want to grow seedlings in artificial soil, for example, according to the method of Dr. Mitlider, need almost daily additional fertilization with solutions of a strictly verified concentration.

How to feed

When using soil labeled "For peppers and tomatoes", seedlings usually require no more than 2 - 3 dressings. The first of them is advised to be done immediately after unrolling the second real leaf. The second - in 14 - 15 days after the first. And the third feeding, if needed, is carried out two or three days before moving to a permanent place.

In the case of two-time feeding, the first one starts two weeks after germination. At this time, three or four true leaves are already formed on the seedlings. The second - four days before transplanting to a greenhouse or greenhouse. Their purpose is to strengthen seedlings, increase the ability to withstand stress and quickly recover from transplantation.

What to feed

For the first feeding of peppers, mainly nitrogen and potash fertilizers are used. There may be several recipes here.

1. Potassium nitrate solution:

Saltpeter - 60 g; - water - 20 l.

2. The ready-made composition of "Kemir-Lux":

Composition - 40 g; - water - 20 l.

3. A mixture of mineral fertilizers:

Ammonium nitrate - 2 teaspoons; - superphosphate - 3 tablespoons; - potassium sulfate - 3 teaspoons;

Water - 1 bucket.

4. Complex mixture of GUMI Kuznetsov:

GUMI - 2 teaspoons; - water - 1 bucket.

The second top dressing, in addition to nitrogen and potassium, should contain phosphorus and other elements. The following fertilizers are most suitable for her:

- "Kristalon" at a concentration of 20 g per bucket of water; - "Kemira-Lux" - 30 g per bucket;

A mixture of 60 g of superphosphate and 25 g of potassium sulfate in a bucket of settled water.

You can use the same mineral mixtures as for the previous feeding, increasing the dose of all elements by about 2 times and adding some wood ash to the cups.

Opponents of chemical fertilizers are usually advised nettle infusion, at a concentration of 1:10 in combination with ash.

For the third feeding of pepper seedlings, complex fertilizers are suitable - Nitroammofoska, Gomel, Uniflor-growth, Agricola. All of them must be used in accordance with the instructions.

With a clearly delayed development and too light leaves, a urea solution can be added to the substrate at the rate of a teaspoon of the drug per six liters of water. Or use fertilizer "Ideal" in the concentration prescribed in the instructions.

It happens that individual plants begin to noticeably lag behind in growth and development. It is permissible to feed such specimens additionally. The simplest nutrient solution for them can be made from sleeping tea. It is enough to collect half a glass of dry used tea leaves, pour it into a liter bottle and fill it with hot water. After five days, the resulting infusion should be drained, filtered and, without diluting, used for watering.

Feeding rules

When feeding peppers seedlings, you must remember:

This plant does not tolerate fresh manure well; - you can not feed the seedlings immediately after the pick - at least two weeks must pass; - feeding solutions should be at room temperature or slightly warmer; - to feed, as well as to water, you need to be very careful, trying to prevent drops from falling on the leaves and stems;

This operation is best done in the morning or evening.

How and when to feed pepper seedlings

How and when to feed pepper and eggplant seedlings

Greetings, dear readers!

We will talk about what and when to feed the seedlings of pepper and eggplant today.

There is no definite answer to the question of whether it is necessary to carry out top dressing of pepper seedlings during the period of their growth at home. There are methods of growing seedlings both without the addition of additional nutrients, and with irrigation with fertilizers.

According to the agricultural technology of the culture, pepper planted in a highly fertile soil, as a rule, does not need mineral fertilizers. However, experienced gardeners carry out the first two or three dressings at the stage of growing seedlings, noting that seedlings form stronger sprouts, which subsequently adapt more easily in the open field.

After the procedure for picking pepper seedlings, the root system of plants begins to actively develop. It is during this period that the need for nitrogen and phosphorus increases. Nitrogen compounds effectively stimulate the formation of green mass, and phosphoric ones - activate the formation of a powerful root system.

Fertilization with mineral and organic compounds

The initial fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is done at the stage of formation of the first two leaves. The solution is prepared as follows: 1 g of potassium chloride or potassium magnesium, 3 g of superphosphate and 1/2 g of urea or ammonium nitrate are diluted in a liter of settled water having a room temperature of 22-24 °.

The second time you need to feed, after 14-15 days, increasing the dose of minerals by half. To strengthen the seedlings, you can make another introduction of minerals several days before transplanting to a permanent place. The solution is prepared as the second time, only the dose of potash fertilizers is increased to 8 grams.

The introduction of minerals is carried out in the morning, without forgetting to water the seedlings with clean water after that. Try to avoid getting the solution on the leaves by spilling it gently under the root.

Herbal remedies are often used instead of mineral preparations. Of organic fertilizers, an ash solution is used for dressing - a source of potassium, phosphorus and valuable trace elements and / or a fermented infusion of young nettle - a highly concentrated alternative to ammonia compounds. Top dressing with these agents is carried out with an interval of 2 weeks, in the morning, combined with watering.

Knowing how and when to feed the seedlings of peppers and eggplants, observing all the rules of agricultural technology for peppers, you will definitely get a bountiful harvest of this nightshade crop. See you!

Top dressing of pepper seedlings

Pepper begins to feed when 2 leaves appear. Top dressing is carried out every 7-10 days before planting the plant in the open ground with the following solution: superphosphate (3 g), ammonium nitrate (1/2 g) and potash fertilizers (1 g). Everything is diluted in a liter of water.

Top dressing of tomato and pepper seedlings with folk remedies

Poultry droppings (1.5 kg) are diluted in a bucket of water and infused for 4-6 days, potassium permanganate and copper sulfate can be added to the solution; Manure: a spoonful of manure per liter of water; Ash is used throughout the growing season. It improves the taste of the fruit. In addition, the plant receives readily available potassium and other minerals.

Used like:

• - infusion (a glass of ash in a bucket of water);
• - dry it is poured into the hole.

Banana peel enriches the soil with potassium and various trace elements. Used as:

• - infusion (peel from two or three bananas for 3 liters of water to insist for 3 days),
• - powder, which is sprinkled on the ground,

Eggshells are used in the form:

• - infusion (half a bucket of shells on a bucket of water, infused for 3 days);
• - when picking, it is placed on the bottom of the pots as drainage.

Onion peels help fight pests and are used as:

• - infusion (10 g of husk per liter of water to insist for 5 days);
• - in dry form, it is scattered under the plants or buried in the soil.

Coffee grounds are mixed with soil before sowing seeds to loosen and enrich them with micronutrients and nitrogen. Nettle leaves are used as an infusion (1 kg of green part per bucket of water) and enrich the soil with useful trace elements.

Feeding tomato and pepper seedlings with yeast

Yeast is a good plant growth stimulant. A solution is made from 10 g of yeast per 10 liters of water.

note

Top dressing of tomatoes with iodine

Can be done every 14 days. For 10 liters of water, 10 grams of iodine and phosphorus, 20 grams of potassium are taken. Watering is carried out at the rate of half a liter of solution for each bush.

How to feed tomatoes in the open field

Top dressing of open ground tomatoes is carried out four times during the growing season:

1. It is carried out 3 weeks after planting the seedlings in the ground with a solution of mullein or bird droppings.
2. At the beginning of flowering, they are fed with ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate. Ash, dung or manure can be used.
3. 1-2 weeks after the second feeding, mineral fertilizers (nitrophoska, potassium humate) are added.
4. During the fruiting period, foliar feeding is carried out with a superphosphate solution. It is sprayed onto the plant itself.

All proportions and preparation of solutions are indicated above.

How to determine by a plant what kind of feeding it needs

• Brittle and curved edges of the leaves - a lack of magnesium. Sprinkle with magnesium salt (0.02 g per bucket of water) or add ash to the soil.
• Sluggish leaves - lack of copper. Spray with copper sulfate (0.05 g per liter of water);
• Drying top of the stem, whitening or yellowing of the leaves - lack of iron. Sprinkle with iron salt (0.05 g per liter of water);

• Blackening of the fruit and the tops of the stems is a lack of boron. Watering with a solution (150 g of boric acid per bucket of water) or adding borax mixed with sand (15 g per 10 acres).

• Top rotting - lack of calcium. Spray with a solution (1 g of calcium fertilizer per liter of water) or add lime flour or lime to the soil.

• Purple veins on the leaves - phosphorus deficiency. 50 g of phosphate fertilizers in a liter of water is infused during the day and diluted in a bucket of water, 10 m2 is used.

• Orange or yellowish edges and pale leaves - lack of potassium. Watering with a solution of 40 g of potassium salt, dissolved in a bucket of water.
• Too thin leaves, shedding of flowers, lack or a small amount of fruits - a lack of nitrogen. Watering with a solution (6 g of urea per bucket of water), which is enough for 10 m2.

Thus, observing the simple rules for applying top dressing, it is quite possible to get a good harvest of tomatoes and peppers on any soil. But it should be remembered that it is better to underfeed than overfeed.

Solanaceous seedlings are grown for a long time - about two months. During this time, the soil in boxes and pots, no matter how nutritious, is depleted. Lack of nutrition affects young plants - they begin to lag behind in growth and such seedlings can no longer be considered high-quality. To prevent this from happening, the seedlings of peppers and tomatoes need to be fed two or three times.

We feed the seedlings of peppers

The best food for peppers is liquid fertilizers. You can buy a bottle with a ready-made product (Ideal, Strong, Effect, Biohumus), or you can dilute the fertilizer in powder or granules with water and water the seedlings.

When growing pepper seedlings, foliar dressing is not used. The fertilizer solution is poured directly onto the ground, and if it accidentally gets on the leaves, it is recommended to immediately rinse them with clean water.

Top dressing of pepper seedlings begins after the growth of two true leaves. It should be complex, that is, contain nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and a set of trace elements. You can make up a complex fertilizer yourself. To do this, take per liter of settled tap water:

• 0.5 g of urea;
• 2 g double superphosphate;
• 0.5 g of any potash fertilizer.

The water is thoroughly mixed, but, most likely, sediment will still remain at the bottom. It's okay - this is ballast that has no value for plants.

• 1 g of urea;
• 4 g double superphosphate;
• 1 g of potassium fertilizer.

On the eve of planting in the ground, the third and last top dressing is carried out - the same amount of nitrate and superphosphate is added per liter of water as in the second, but more potash fertilizer should be put - up to 8 grams per liter of water.

How to feed peppers to fans of organic farming? In addition to purchased liquid fertilizers made on the basis of compost, droppings or humus, you can also use what you find in the house. Here is a recipe for a top dressing that contains everything the plant needs:

A handful of sifted wood ash and sleeping tea leaves are taken per liter of hot boiling water, insisted, filtered and watered.

Blackleg fungal disease may appear on pepper seedlings. To prevent this from happening, you need to water and feed the plants in the morning and use a solution at room temperature.

We feed tomato seedlings

Top dressing of tomatoes begins about 10 days after the dive. By this time, the roots of the bushes have already grown enough and can absorb fertilizer from the soil.

So, how to feed tomatoes? First of all, small tomatoes need nitrogen and phosphorus, therefore, fertilizer "Nitrofos" is well suited for feeding. A tablespoon of granules is diluted in a liter of water and the bushes are watered so that the soil is completely wet.

After 14 days, the time comes for the next feeding, but before doing it, you need to visually assess the condition of the plants. Tomato seedlings are able to stretch quickly when there is a lack of light. If this happens, then the second feeding is carried out without nitrogen fertilizers: add a spoonful of double superphosphate and the same amount of potassium sulfate to three liters of water, stir well and water the bushes generously. If the seedlings are healthy, stocky, not elongated, then, like the first time, they are fed again with nitrophos in the same dosage.

Top dressing is repeated once every ten days and stops a week before planting the bushes in a permanent place.

The best fertilizer for seedlings is liquid, so all powder and granular fertilizers and fertilizers are diluted with water. Before feeding, the seedlings must be watered with clean water, so in dry soil, even a highly diluted fertilizer can burn the delicate roots. If the soil is already wet, then pre-watering is not necessary.

Always observe the type of plant - if you need extra feeding, it will "say" about it. The general rules are as follows:

1. The lower leaves brighten - there is not enough nitrogen for the plants.
2. Young leaves lightened between the veins - this is chlorosis or iron deficiency. How to feed the seedlings in this case? It is enough to spray the leaves with iron vitriol at the rate of a teaspoon for half a bucket of water and the situation will be corrected. Sometimes chlorosis begins with an excess of manganese, so you need to water the seedlings with potassium permanganate with caution.
3. With a lack of phosphorus, the leaves may turn purple, but this will also happen if the seedlings freeze.
4. If the air in the space between the stems is humid for several hours, then there is a high probability of fungal diseases. Therefore, you need to water and fertilize the plants in the morning so that they dry out in the evening.
5. The soil should be kept loose, as the lack of oxygen prevents the roots from assimilating nutrients. Loosening is best done a few hours after watering.

Now you know how to feed the seedlings and you have every chance to grow it healthy, strong, and end up with a good harvest of peppers and tomatoes.

What is the best way to feed indoor pepper seedlings?

Svetlana Zapolina

Watering is best combined with top dressing. If the plants grow slowly, water with a humate solution. Or take one glass of tea infusion, pour hot water into a three-liter jar, strain the solution after 5-6 days and water the seedlings.

If the seedlings develop slowly and the leaves have become light green, feed it (for 3 liters of water, half a teaspoon of urea or for 3 liters of water add 1 tablespoon of liquid fertilizer "Ideal"). Green, beautiful plants, but with small, poorly growing roots, also need feeding (for 3 liters of water, a tablespoon of superphosphate or nitrophosphate or 1 teaspoon of dry Signor Tomato fertilizer).

It is good to add wood ash to the pots 1-2 times during the period of growing seedlings. One teaspoon is enough for two to three pots. At the same time, try to prevent ash from getting on the plants.

In order to prevent black leg disease, feeding and watering is done only in the morning.

Unroll the seedlings often to prevent the plants from curving.

The optimum temperature for seedlings during the day in sunny weather is 23-25 ​​° С, in cloudy weather - 20-22 ° С, and at night - 16-18 ° С.

Hardening of plants begins a month before planting them in a permanent place. If the outside air temperature is 15 ° C and higher, there is no wind, you can open the window frame during the day or take out the seedlings to the balcony, gradually accustoming them to open ground conditions, but at the same time avoiding drafts.

With proper agricultural technology, pepper seedlings usually do not stretch, almost always have a green color, strong roots and are not very susceptible to disease.

By the time of planting, it should have 8-12 leaves. If the seedlings are intended for growing in a greenhouse, then they are planted on May 1-15. Seedlings are planted in open ground from 10 to 30 May with the obligatory cover with a film. Before planting, the seedlings are spilled with water so that a nutritious soil lump is preserved when sampling it from the pots. For prophylaxis against pests, especially against aphids, sprinkle the peppers with Strela solution (50 g of powder per 10 liters of water).

Lanunchik

kemiroi, on a 2 liter bottle at the tip of a teaspoon

Jeanne Me

Today I fertilized pepper seedlings with humic fertilizer for indoor plants. But if it grows in your house, then something "nourishing", perhaps Kemira-Lux.

The yield of most garden crops depends on the nutrition that humans provide. Bell peppers are no exception. Like other vegetables, they need certain nutrients, so it will be useful for every gardener to learn how to feed peppers in a greenhouse and open field, from seedlings to adult plants.

Peppers can be properly fed with both industrially produced mineral fertilizers and organic, but homemade. You need to use them more often, the poorer the soil on which these delicious vegetables grow, because they have an enviable "appetite".

Mineral fertilizers

Those gardeners who have been growing sweet peppers in their beds for a long time actively use ready-made mineral mixtures for dressing, which include certain components. This is very convenient, because at each stage of development of this culture, it needs different chemical elements. For example, at the initial stage of growth, bell peppers especially require nitrogen and potassium, so for the first time take the following mixtures for feeding seedlings:

• Kemira-lux (20 g of fertilizer per 10 liters of water);
• GUMI Kuznetsova (2 tsp dilute in 10 liters of water).

Even during this period, you can use a mixture of potassium sulfate (3 tsp), ammonium nitrate (2 tsp) and superphosphate (3 tbsp). Dissolve it in 10 liters of water. For the 2nd and 3rd feeding, use such complex fertilizers for pepper as: Kristalon (20 g of powder per 10 liters of water), Agricola, Gomelskoe, Uniflor-growth, Nitroammofosk.

Organic fertilizers

You can also feed sweet peppers with organic matter collected in your home. Below you will find recipes for using organic fertilizers.

Manure or bird droppings

If you have pets, use fresh manure diluted in warm water in a ratio of 1 to 10 and bird droppings - 1 to 20. Leave to infuse for a day and water the plants with the resulting liquid during their intensive growth.

Ash

Wood ash is another must-have organic fertilizer when growing bell peppers. Young plants will need it already when planting in beds or in a greenhouse, so when you transplant seedlings, put a handful of ash in each hole. In the future, water them with an aqueous solution of this fertilizer, which is prepared in the ratio: 5 tbsp. l. ash on a bucket of warm water.

Feeding pepper with ash should be carried out separately from fertilizing with nitrogen-containing fertilizers, both of a mineral nature and organic, since they are mutually exclusive.

Kitchen waste

• There is a lot of potassium in bananas, so powder from dry skins can be added to the soil already at the stage of planting seedlings, and then water the adult plants with tincture from fresh skins (insist 2-3 days in 3 liters of water).
• Milk and eggshells contain calcium in a form that plants can easily absorb, so make them a nutritious tincture for your pets. Take 3 or 4 egg shells, crush them into powder, pour it into a 3 liter jar, fill it with hot water and leave for 3 days. Water the seedlings with the resulting solution.
• You can fertilize pepper with a fresh infusion of herbs that are easy to find in any garden: nettle, woodlice, dandelion and plantain. Cut them into small pieces, pour a bucket of warm water, leave for a week, and then pour this liquid over the peppers (1 liter for each pepper bush).

Iodine

Feeding peppers with iodine pursues several goals at once: it stimulates growth, increases productivity, improves the taste of fruits, and prevents diseases. To feed the peppers, 1-2 drops of the usual alcoholic tincture of iodine, dissolved in 1 liter of water, are enough. Another 0.1 L of fresh milk whey can be added to this liquid.

Yeast

Feeding pepper with yeast is an agricultural technique that is not yet familiar to all gardeners, but very useful for the sweet peppers themselves, since yeast contains a lot of useful substances: nitrogen, iron, phosphorus, minerals and especially vitamins.

Yeast tincture has a double effect: it perfectly stimulates the development of the root and aerial parts of these vegetables, and also activates the reproduction of beneficial soil bacteria.

For feeding peppers, both fresh and dry yeast are suitable. Prepare the fertilizer as follows:

1. Take 1 kg of fresh yeast.
2. Pour 5 liters of heated water over them.
3. Leave to infuse for about 1 day.
4. Dilute the infusion in 5 buckets of water and use it for watering.

Prepare dry yeast dressing in about the same way. Take 1 sachet and dissolve it in 1 bucket of warm water. Add 2 tbsp to it. l. sugar and leave for 2 hours. Then add 0.5 liters of yeast liquid to 10 liters of warm water. There is not so much such vitamin supplementation, it is enough to fertilize the peppers 2 times during the entire growing season.

It should be noted that it is necessary to prepare yeast feeding with the addition of ash, since the yeast contributes to the fact that the potassium in the soil becomes inaccessible for assimilation by plants.

How to determine what peppers are missing from their appearance

1. The leaves have become pale green, yellowness has appeared on them, and the plants themselves have few flowers, which means that they lack nitrogen. Pour mullein solution over them.
2. Yellow-gray specks appeared on the leaves, and they began to curl into a tube - calcium deficiency. Stop feeding them nitrogen and potassium.
3. The leaves turn yellow, wither and fall off, and the ripening fruits are too small - this means that there is a lot of calcium in the soil. Add nitrogen to the soil.
4. Pale green leaves - nitrogen deficiency. Water the plants with urea or mullein.
5. Dark green leaves with a reddish or bluish tint - phosphorus deficiency. Add superphosphate to the soil.

Do not forget to monitor your wards and be attentive to their needs, and for this they will delight you with an excellent harvest of tasty and juicy fruits.

Feeding schemes

Carry out top dressing of bell pepper according to the following scheme:

1. In the phase of the first true leaves.
2. When the 3rd pair of leaves appears.
3. 1 week before planting it in the ground.
4. 10 days after planting.
5. In the budding phase.
6. During fruiting.

These are the main steps for feeding pepper at home. Let's take a closer look at how to fertilize peppers during different growing seasons.

Seedlings after picking

Very young peppers do not need highly concentrated fertilizer, as long as a weak solution is enough for them. Therefore, to feed the peppers after the pick, which is carried out 1 week after this procedure, use the following mixture:

• ammonium and potassium nitrate - 1 g;
• superphosphate - 3 g.

Dissolve it in 1 liter of heated water and pour it gently under each bush. Spend 2 more such stimulating feeding at intervals of 1 week, but in this case, increase the proportion of potassium to 8 g. Also, at this time, you can fertilize the culture with liquid mineral complexes or ordinary black tea. Take 1 tbsp. l. tea leaves and fill it with 3 liters of hot water. Insist on it for at least 5 days, and then start watering.

How to feed pepper seedlings for growth at home

During the intensive growth of peppers, feed them 2 times every month using synthetic industrial fertilizers and organic matter. At this time, they must be provided with a sufficient amount of nitrogen, calcium, phosphorus and potassium. For the first feeding of peppers, which is carried out in the phase of 2 leaves, use Azophoska and Nitroammofoska in the amount indicated in the instructions. Of organic fertilizers, an aqueous solution of chicken manure (in a concentration of 1 to 20), manure (1 to 10), and ash (1 to 50) are well accelerated. Carry out the second feeding after 2 weeks. At this time, the peppers should already have 3 pairs of leaves.

What is the best way to feed peppers after planting in the ground or greenhouse

You can use ready-made mineral mixtures:

• GUMI Kuznetsov;
• Ideal;
• Kristalon;
• Sudarushka;
• Orton Micro Fe.

The next dressing of pepper in the open field should also be carried out at intervals of 2 weeks. For feeding peppers in a polycarbonate greenhouse, use the same formulations.

How to feed peppers during flowering

Potassium is the element that stimulates the formation of flowers and ovaries, therefore, when feeding already flowering peppers, it is necessary to focus on potash fertilizers. Use urea as well as dry potassium. Dissolve the fertilizing urea in 1 bucket of water (1 tsp).

A solution of superphosphate and potassium sulfate is also suitable. Take 1 tbsp. l. first fertilizer and 1 tsp. second and stir in a bucket of water. Perfectly stimulate the formation of ovaries and dry mixtures:

1. Ecohuminat;
2. Summer resident.

Scatter them near each bush in the amount indicated on their package and water the plants immediately.

During the period of fruiting pepper and for the rapid ripening of fruits

Bell peppers especially need nutrition during the fruiting period, as they spend a lot of energy on the formation and ripening of fruits. Fertilizers for peppers also need to be applied in order to make the fruit ripening process faster and more uniform. Fruiting peppers require phosphorus and potassium, so feed them with superphosphate along with potassium salt at intervals of 2 weeks to get a good harvest. In August, feed the culture with mullein infusion (1 in 20).

Basic feeding rules

Some gardeners, not very experienced in growing pepper, believe that the more fertilizer is applied to the soil, the more abundant the harvest will be in the end. But it is not always the case. If the land is greasy, rich in humus, and the peppers growing on it develop normally, do not get sick and bear fruit well, then fertilizers do not need to be applied, because an excess of nutrients is as harmful as their deficiency.

Use any fertilizer for peppers in the open field and in the greenhouse, only if the plants are lethargic, stunted in growth, they have few flowers, and the fruits are small. Especially do not overuse fresh manure and poultry droppings - an excess of nitrogen will lead to the fact that the pepper will grow a lush green mass, and there will be very few fruits on it.

Dilute all fertilizers in heated, settled water. Cold and chlorinated is not suitable. Observe the sequence: first water the soil, and then apply fertilizer. Loosen the soil after each time to break up the crust.

Feed the plants no more than 1 time per 10 days, but no less than 1 time per month. Alternate mineral fertilizers and top dressing of peppers with folk remedies.

When applying fertilizers, try not to get on the leaves, as due to a too concentrated solution, the leaves of the peppers can get burned.

Expert opinion

Maria Vlasova

Gardener

Top dressing of sweet bell peppers in the soil or greenhouse is a must, without which it is problematic to count on a good harvest. It is very important to apply fertilizers in dosage and according to a certain scheme, without overfeeding the plants.

Pepper cannot be called anything else, except as a handsome man, the king of the garden and the table. Not a single gardener is against growing such a wonderful vegetable on his own in his area. But pepper is not as simple as it sounds. The plant is very demanding on growing conditions. For him, proper feeding is of great importance, without which it is impossible to get perfect fruits. Many people prefer to do this by resorting to the help of chemicals, but folk remedies should not be discounted.

Chemical fertilizers

If there is no desire to waste time preparing home remedies that do not inspire confidence, gardeners in this case use ready-made mixtures to feed the pepper. At different stages of growing, plants must receive a certain composition of fertilizers. The first feeding can be done with self-prepared solutions. I am glad that there are different recipes for chemical fertilizers, which can be made at home.

An effective effect when growing plants is provided by feeding with concentrated nitrogen fertilizer, the so-called urea. It can be applied directly to the soil, as well as prepared a solution. A solution for root dressing is made from 10 liters of water and 60g. urea. Foliar dressing is carried out with a solution of 100 g of urea in a 10 liter bucket of water. Urea is also used in dry form. 12g. dry granules of urea per 1 square meter of soil are applied before planting seedlings, and when there is an active growth of plants - 10g. per square meter.

Fertilizer "Krepysh" deserves special attention, which is presented in dry and liquid form. It has all the elements necessary for vegetable crops. Top dressing of pepper is carried out with a solution: 2 tsp. "Strong" on a bucket of water, the first time such a procedure takes place after the appearance of the second leaf, then every two weeks until the fruits appear.

You can increase the amount of ovary on peppers by feeding nitroammofosk, which contains nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus - the main elements of plant development. To do this, root feeding is carried out in the form of watering the plant with a solution prepared from a matchbox of fertilizer granules for 10 liters of water. Pour half a liter of this solution under one bush. Such top dressing is allowed to be combined with the introduction of sodium humate or mullein into the soil.

Gardeners do not all prefer to get involved in chemical agents as fertilizers, although there are a large number of special products on sale for feeding peppers. Currently, many farmers are working on recipes, in which ideally selected folk remedies play the main role. Among them, you can always choose the method of feeding you need, without risking anything.

A large circle of summer residents have long been using these ideal mixtures in their area and getting positive results. Anyone who puts everything natural in the first place is always interested in folk advice on making pepper dressings. The secrets of the best of them are discussed further in the article.

We select the best price "treats" for the pepper

Poultry manure is an affordable and very popular type of fertilizer for plants, including for peppers. Cheapness and availability is explained by the fact that poultry is kept in almost all private farms, so they always have poultry droppings at their fingertips. In addition, it is a very valuable fertilizer, it contains nitrogen, which stimulates plant growth. The concentration of potassium, magnesium and phosphorus in this fertilizer is much higher than in the droppings of other animals. Fertilizer releases its nutrients slowly. It is worth entering it only once, and the effect will be observed for three years.

It is advisable to apply bird droppings at the beginning of seedling growth. Fresh, it is not suitable for feeding, because the uric acid in it can harm the roots. The droppings should be mixed with water in a 1: 2 ratio, insisted for several days, after which one liter of the resulting mixture should be poured into a ten-liter bucket and used to spill the rows. This top dressing is recommended after rain or heavy watering.

Ash is the perfect "delicacy"

Pepper seedlings shortly before planting in a permanent place need such important elements as potassium and phosphorus. The cheapest product that is rich in them is straw and wood ash. Feeding the pepper with ash stimulates the growth of the plant, the fruits acquire an extraordinary taste.

A proven method of applying this fertilizer for years is adding a handful of ash to the holes when planting seedlings. Equally beneficial is an infusion prepared from one tablespoon of ash per two liters of hot water. This fertilizer promotes good flowering and fruit setting.

We increase the yield of pepper with a simple means

Throwing the shells of eggs into the trash can, not every gardener knows that he is sending useful fertilizer to the landfill. Fertilizing the soil in such an affordable way, you can enrich its composition with the necessary trace elements and increase the yield of pepper almost twice.

Among folk remedies, a tincture on the shell, which stimulates the growth of seedlings, is considered valuable. The cooking process is not complicated. You need to take a container with warm water. Place the shell of three eggs there and cover it loosely on top. As soon as the water becomes cloudy and an unpleasant odor is released, which occurs after about three days, the tincture can be considered ready. Before use, the fertilizer should be diluted with water in a 1: 3 ratio.

How Onions May Support Pepper Plants

For centuries in a row, people have used onion husks as a natural fertilizer. Due to its natural composition, the husk has a beneficial effect both on the soil and on the plant as a whole. It can be found in abundance in every home.

Water infusion of onion peel when watering plants enriches the soil with nutrients, improves its structure and is an excellent plant nutrition. It has been proven that onion infusion also helps with premature yellowing of pepper leaves. The preparation of a proven fertilizer is pretty straightforward:

• Onion hulls - one liter jar.

Pour the husk with boiling water, insist for a day, strain. For watering, dilute one part of the husk infusion in five parts of water. You can also feed indoor flowers with this fertilizer.

The use of yeast feeding

All gardeners know that without top dressing there is no hope for a good harvest of pepper. But few people know that yeast can also be an effective fertilizer. Yeast contains nitrogen and phosphorus, in addition, they are rich in vitamins and minerals. All this contributes to the fact that the yeast solution in the form of top dressing has a positive effect on the accelerated growth of the plant, its root system and increases the yield.

Only by properly feeding pepper seedlings, both chemical fertilizers and folk remedies, can you grow excellent plants that will bring a wonderful harvest of delicious fruits. Therefore, you need to spare no time, your work and heed the recommendations for feeding pepper.

ogorodnikam.com

How to feed after planting peppers in the ground

A lot has been written about the benefits of bell pepper, so it will not be a discovery for anyone that this vegetable simply needs to be grown on your site. We have already told how to grow bell peppers, today I would like to continue this topic and tell you how and how you can feed the seedlings of bell peppers so that they grow better.

Seeds before planting

In order for all the seeds to successfully sprout, they need to be "awakened", and for this it is worth carrying out a number of simple procedures.

1. In a warm steam bath, you need to hold the pepper seeds for about 20 minutes.
2. Then wrap the seeds in a damp cloth and refrigerate for 1.5-2 hours.
3. Prepare a solution of any growth stimulant you like and place the pepper seeds in it for another 20 minutes.

After such procedures, you can safely start planting.

How to fertilize pepper?

After you plant the pepper in its first container, you need to introduce the correct and suitable watering system. For these purposes, a weak solution of any fertilizer, which contains a lot of potassium, is the best fit. By the way, a solution prepared once can stand for quite a long time. Top dressing of bell peppers should be carried out according to the scheme:

• the first two days 1 teaspoon of fertilizer;
• after two weeks, the amount of liquid must be increased, the main thing is that the soil is not excessively wet.

In addition to special solutions with a high potassium content, ordinary mineral fertilizers, which include ash and azofoska, can be used as fertilizer for sweet peppers. It is also necessary to feed peppers with such fertilizers according to the scheme described above.

When the time for picking comes, the amount of feeding must be increased. Moreover, the composition of the fertilizer does not need to be changed. When watering peppers with fertilizer, you should also be careful to keep the soil moderately dry.

Organic fertilizers are strictly prohibited for pepper. And manure is generally prohibited for him. Unfortunately, it is these fertilizers that will bring a lot of trouble in the future, developing that part of the plant that will remain above the ground, but, at the same time, completely forgetting about the roots.

Fertilizing pepper in the garden

For planting pepper in its summer residence, the soil must be prepared. In all the holes prepared for pepper, you must put 1 teaspoon of fertilizer. Just first carefully study the composition. Bell peppers do not like chlorine very much. After the fertilizer is in the ground, the wells must be filled to the top with water. When the water is absorbed, the plant can be transplanted. Just proceed carefully so as not to damage its roots. After planting, the ground around the pepper must be compacted.

Now you can rest a little and forget about watering for a whole week. All this time, the pepper will take root.

After the appearance of new greenery on the sprouts, we proceed to feeding with potash fertilizers, which, as mentioned earlier, should not contain chlorine. If there is any fertilizer left over that you watered on the pepper while it was still at home, you can start using it again. The scheme of irrigation with fertilizers bell pepper in the ground

will not be difficult: once every two weeks. The main rule when feeding and watering is also "do not overmoisten!"

Why feed peppers?

Newbies in gardening may ask the question: "Why feed the pepper?" We answer. Bell peppers are a very moody vegetable. If he lacks nutrients, then we can say with one hundred percent guarantee that you will not get a good and justifying harvest. Therefore, it is better to approach this matter in good faith, and in the fall to fully enjoy the results of your labor, than to regret the failure for a long time.

Pepper seedlings at home. Master Class

Growing pepper seedlings has its own characteristics. In case of errors with watering, sudden temperature fluctuations or unsuccessful transplantation, the stems of plants become coarse, their potential yield decreases. How to grow pepper seedlings correctly?

If you allow the lignification of the stem of the pepper, it begins to grow worse in thickness (and subsequently, with abundant watering, it can crack). Such plants no longer give a plentiful harvest, since their ovaries receive less nutrition. In addition, the pepper is not sufficiently resistant to root rot. If you cut it open, like other seedlings, at the stage of two true leaves with a deepening to the cotyledons, it stops growing, gets sick for a long time and may die from a fungal infection.

To get a good harvest of pepper in a short summer, you have to sow it early enough and, before planting, ensure the seedlings develop uniformly without stress and a sharp change in conditions. This is the main feature of the successful technology of growing pepper seedlings.

When to sow peppers for seedlings?

Fruit ripening in pepper begins 100-150 days after germination, and seedlings are planted at the age of 60 to 80 days, so it is best to start sowing on February 20 - March 10, depending on the variety. You can more accurately calculate the sowing time yourself, if you know the characteristics of the variety.

How to prepare pepper seeds for sowing

Examine the seeds, remove any frail and damaged ones. Treat selected pepper seeds against fungal infections. Soak them, placing them in a gauze bag, in a solution of any fungicide ("Maxim", "Fitosporin-M", "Vitaros") according to the instructions. You can do with soaking the seeds in a dense pink solution of potassium permanganate for 20-30 minutes. After potassium permanganate, rinse them thoroughly right in the bags. Good results are obtained by soaking pepper seeds for 12 hours in Epin (1-2 drops per 100 ml of water). After that, spread the seeds between two layers of a damp, clean cloth, cover so that the moisture does not evaporate quickly, and place in a warm place (+ 25 ° C). After 7-14 days, the seeds will hatch. Do not miss this moment, because the roots of the peppers are very fragile, they are painful to take the slightest damage. You can learn more about dressing and soaking seeds, treating them with stimulants by reading the article Preparing pepper seeds for sowing.

How to make pepper ground

While the seeds are sprouting, prepare the soil for sowing. You can use the ready-made mixture for sowing peppers, adding washed sand to it after sifting (about 0.5 parts per 3 parts of soil). Experienced gardeners usually prepare the seed mixture themselves. Land mixture for sowing pepper: mix thoroughly 2 parts of humus (it can be replaced with well-rotted compost), 2 parts of peat and 1 part of well-washed sand. Sift this mixture and steam for an hour in a double boiler to protect the seedlings from fungal diseases and weeds.

Sowing pepper seeds for seedlings

Rinse the sowing dish in a solution of potassium permanganate, fill with the prepared soil mixture and slightly compact it so that the rim of the dishes rises about 2 cm above the soil.

Spread out the seeds that have turned up with tweezers at a distance of 1.5-2 cm. You do not need to sow thicker: the sprouts of pepper will shade each other and stretch out.

Fill the top with soil mixture in a layer of 1-1.5 cm. Compact a little. It is necessary to water the crops of pepper carefully, making sure that the seeds are not washed out to the surface of the soil. Label the varieties. To prevent moisture from evaporating too quickly, place crops in a greenhouse or in a bag. The temperature must be maintained at + 25 ° C.

With the emergence of seedlings (usually this happens on the 5-7th day), place the crops in a bright place with a temperature of + 15-17 ° С. Water with lukewarm water in moderation, making sure that no water accumulates in the pan. To prevent the seedlings from leaning towards the light, turn the bowl with the seedlings relative to the window or illuminate them with a phytolamp.

How to dive pepper correctly

To reduce the risk of damage to plants by root rot, peppers dive at the stage of two true leaves without deepening or deepening by no more than 0.5 cm.In the reference books, another method is recommended: to dive the seedlings at the cotyledon stage, when they can more easily tolerate the dive. In this case, they can be buried down to the cotyledonous leaves. The second method of pepper picking is more suitable for professional greenhouses, where immediately after the emergence of seedlings, the temperature is lowered, the plants are provided with good lighting, and a short, dense hypocotal knee is formed in the seedlings. At home, seedlings are obtained in any case more elongated, so it is better to dive them in the first way. 3-4 weeks after germination, the seedlings have 1-2 true leaves.

This is the best time to pick pepper at home.

Pour the soil in a bowl well in advance, wait for the excess water to drain into the pan. Pepper develops slowly, so it is better to dive into small pots (100-150 ml). In them, the seedlings quickly master the earthen ball, so the earth does not sour when watering and the roots are less susceptible to rot. When diving, take the seedlings by the "ears" so as not to damage the stalk. The hole in the pot should be such that the roots are located in it freely, without bends. Sprinkle with soil and compact slightly. The root collar can be slightly deepened, but no more than 0.5 cm.

Water gently while holding the seedling until the water is completely saturated. Top up the soil if it has settled too much after watering.

Place the seedlings on the windowsill, shading them from direct sunlight at first. Make sure that the soil in the pots does not cool below + 15 ° C. At temperatures below + 13 ° C, the growth of seedlings stops.

How to feed pepper seedlings

Before planting in the ground, the pepper must be fed at least two times:

• 2 weeks after the pick
• 2 weeks after the first feeding.

Top dressing is applied in liquid form. It is very convenient to use ready-made fertilizers for seedlings: Agricola, Krepysh, Fertika Lux, Solution. At the end of spring, when part of the seedlings of other crops will migrate to hardening, and the space on the windowsill becomes free, the seedlings of pepper need to be transferred into pots with a volume of 0.8-1l. With careful handling with the preservation of the earthy coma, the seedlings do not stop growing. The composition of the soil can be used the same as for sowing and picking, but it is not necessary to sift it: the lumpy structure allows air to pass to the roots better. Add 1 tablespoon of double superphosphate and 0.5 cups of wood ash or 3 tablespoons of Signor Tomato special fertilizer for peppers and tomatoes to a bucket of earthen mixture.

Start hardening the seedlings in the fresh air 2 weeks before planting. When hardening, keep in mind that at first it must be shaded from direct sunlight and protected from drafts.

When and how to plant peppers in the ground

At the stage of formation of the first buds, seedlings can be planted in the ground if the average daily temperature is set at + 15 ... + 17 ° С.

Peppers absolutely do not tolerate cold heavy soils, therefore, if your site has clay soil, then add peat and humus to it. Dig well to the depth of the bayonet of the shovel, level it so that there is no slope. Make holes 50 cm apart (60 cm between rows). The pepper planting hole should be so deep that when planting, the root collar is at the level of the soil surface. Add 1 tablespoon of complete mineral fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to the well, mix well so that the fertilizer is evenly distributed. Remove the plant carefully from the pot, being careful not to disturb the earthy ball. This is not difficult to do if the plant has mastered the earthen lump in the pot well.

Fill the hole with a little more than half so that the bulk of the roots is covered. Water liberally (about 1/3 of a bucket per well. When the water is absorbed, fill the rest of the well with loose earth. Immediately label the variety.

Mulch the plantings with peat. If necessary, tie the bushes to the support. If at night the temperature drops below + 13 ... + 14 ° C, cover the plants in arcs with non-woven covering material.

See also: Planting pepper seeds for seedlings in peat tablets

Go to the main article on pepper

supersadovnik.ru

What and how to properly feed pepper seedlings?

Feeding plays an important role in the process of growing high-quality pepper seedlings. Someone thinks that feeding is not at all necessary, but the fact that fertilizers stimulate the growth of seedlings is unambiguous. Top dressing of peppers at the seedling stage allows the formation of strong seedlings, which are subsequently much easier to adapt to the further environment.

Sowing and caring for pepper seedlings

Before planting pepper seeds, they need to be soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate for about a day to disinfect the seeds. This seed treatment gives rapid growth and germination. You can harden the seeds by placing them in the refrigerator for two days after soaking. Then they are placed in a warm place for 24 hours, and again in the refrigerator for 48 hours.

After that, pour soil for seedlings into prepared trays, and it must be watered so that it is moist. Then plant one seed at a time and sprinkle it with earth on top. Cover the trays with foil with holes for air circulation. Seedlings will sprout in about a week.

How to fertilize pepper seedlings at the very beginning of their life? Definitely not just water, but a liquid with the addition of fertilizers containing potassium. You can use eggshell infusion, you will need:

• 10 chicken eggs, or rather, their shells;
• large capacity for water;
• two liters of hot water;
• patience.

Grind the shells of 10 chicken eggs, put them in a large, preferably three-liter jar, pour hot water and leave for five days, strain and water the plants. Or the infusion can be replaced with another remedy:

• used welding;
• container for water;
• hot water.

Take the listed ingredients, pour hot water and also leave for about five days, strain and water.

How to feed pepper seedlings? Mineral fertilizers can also be used: pour the ash under the roots of the plants, but care must be taken that it does not fall on the leaves. We learned how to feed seedlings in the early days. Now let's consider the features of picking seedlings.

Top dressing and picking

Pepper seedlings are dived into pots: the most important thing is not to harm the roots. If you accidentally deepen the plant, then the stem will rot. Remove the pepper carefully, being careful not to damage it. It is placed in the groove made without breaking the plant roots. Place the pots on the windowsill and arrange good and not too bright lighting.

The basis for caring for pepper sprouts is three steps: feeding, watering, hardening and, if possible, maintaining a comfortable temperature.

Water the seedlings regularly to moisten all the soil in the boxes. At the same time, we pay attention so that the water does not stagnate. With an excess of moisture, plant growth stops. Water the plants with water at room temperature.

By the color of the leaves of pepper sprouts, you can determine what kind of feeding the pepper seedlings need. So, if the leaves are light green, then we use the Agricola fertilizer, dilute 3 teaspoons per 10 liters of water. If the leaves are small and the roots are poorly developed, it is necessary to use fertilizers for root development ("Cornesil").

Hardening

Seed hardening is done before planting in a permanent place in order to avoid plant disease. If the air temperature outside is above 15 degrees and there is no wind, then during the day the seedlings can be taken out onto the balcony or open a window without creating drafts. This action will help the peppers get used to the weather outside the home. With proper care, pepper seedlings are green in color.

By the time of planting, seedlings have an average of 10 leaves. Before planting, the seedlings must be watered with water, so that when it is sampled from the pots, the soil lump is preserved.

The beds are dug to the full depth of the shovel bayonet. The average height reaches 25-30 centimeters, and the width is up to 90-100 centimeters (optional length).

Planting seedlings in open ground

Peppers are planted at a distance of about 55 centimeters between rows and 40 centimeters apart and. Dig a hole large enough to accommodate a clod of soil and seedlings. You need to put fertilizer in the hole and pour 3-5 liters of water per hole, when the water is absorbed, you can plant seedlings. Plants are buried in the ground up to the first leaves. Sprinkle with dry earth on top to avoid rapid evaporation of moisture.

Pepper is loosened and huddled 3-4 times, you can add additional soil under the plants. If the summer is humid, you can remove the lower leaves.

Bell pepper. Care and growing tips

Bright, beautiful, healthy, excellent sweet pepper taste - the champion among vegetables in terms of vitamin C.

By the way, for the first time this vitamin was isolated from the fruits of pepper. Pepper - originally from the tropics, but in our climatic conditions, it feels at home thanks to timely and proper care.

Pepper bed Pepper succeeds in sunny beds, lags behind in growth in the shade, does not yield a crop.

The best precursors for pepper are cucumber, peas, beans, beans, cabbage, and table vegetables. Do not place peppers after potatoes and tomatoes. Soil cultivation for growing peppers begins in the fall, immediately after harvesting the previous crop. The plot is freed from plant residues, manure or compost is applied at the rate of one bucket per sq. m with the addition of 20-30 g of superphosphate. They dig to a depth of 20-25 cm.

In the spring, as soon as the soil ripens and stops smearing, they start digging. If organic fertilizers have not been applied since the fall, then the soil is fertilized (a glass of ash on a bucket of humus). They dig to a shallower depth than in autumn, carefully selecting weeds and pest larvae (beetles, wireworms, etc.). The beds are made during the spring digging. On heavy, cold soils, they must be high in order to warm up well and provide water and air conditions. From the moment of spring tillage to planting seedlings in the ground, sometimes a month or more passes. Therefore, the soil is kept in a loose and weed-free state, after each rain the top layer is loosened with a rake to prevent crust formation and moisture evaporation. Along the way, sprouted weeds are destroyed. If there is no rain, then loosening is carried out as soon as weed shoots appear. The timing of planting pepper seedlings depends on weather conditions and the location of the site. On the southern slopes, in non-frosty areas, they are planted earlier - in mid or late May. If the grower does not have means of temporary protection of plants from frost, then they start planting when the danger of frost has passed (no earlier than June 10-15). It is better to plant peppers in a tape manner. The distance between the ribbons is 50-60 cm, between plants in a row - 15-25 cm.Early ripe, undersized varieties are placed in a row every 15 cm, or two plants per hole, but at a distance of 30-40 cm.

The landing technique is very important. Many vegetable growers do it wrong. First, a hole is made, seedlings are immersed in it, then the roots are covered with earth and watered with water. With such a planting, already on the second day, a crust forms at the watering site, which enhances the evaporation of moisture from the lower layers of the soil, makes it difficult for air to reach the roots and beneficial soil microorganisms, and worsens the conditions for plant survival. Therefore, the grower is forced to water the seedlings almost daily until they take root.

The correct landing technique is as follows. First, using a cord or marker, mark the tapes. Then, along each row, after 15-30 cm with a planting scoop or a hoe, holes are made 10-12 cm deep. Each hole is watered at the rate of 0.5-1 liters of water per plant. Potted or potless seedlings are planted in the resulting "mud", covered with soil and compacted. Above, around the planted seedlings, peat or dry soil is poured with a layer of 3-4 cm.This loose layer serves as mulch, which will prevent the evaporation of moisture from the hole and the lower horizon of the soil. After planting is complete, it is impossible to water the mulching layer - in order to avoid the formation of a soil crust. "Bottom" watering in the holes, the creation of a mulch layer around the plant ensure quick survival of seedlings, does not require subsequent daily watering, which inevitably happens with "upper" watering. For better survival, the roots are dipped in a clay mash (if the seedlings were grown without a pick). A great effect is given by the introduction of an organic-mineral mixture when planting in a hole (200-300 g of humus or peat, 5-10 g of superphosphate and potassium salt each). After planting is complete, the aisles are loosened with a rake to reduce evaporation of moisture from the soil. The pepper root system is shallow in the soil and very responsive to loosening. The flow of air to the roots accelerates the growth and development of plants, activates the biological activity of soil microorganisms, and improves nutrition. Pepper roots do not like direct sunlight. When the plants bloom, you need the crowns to close. Do not plant sweet and hot peppers next to them, as they will all become bitter due to cross-pollination. Pepper does not tolerate frost on the soil. It does not tolerate a high level of groundwater and even short-term flooding. The soil in which the seedlings are transplanted should be structurally better than the one in which the seedlings grow. By the time of transplanting into open ground, the bushes should be 25-30 cm high. The pepper bush develops better if it is not allowed to be planted too deeply. The root system should be as close to the ground as possible.

Low pegs are placed near each bush. As a large number of fruits develop and form on it, they tie it up. The soil around the bush is loosened regularly. Pepper does not like hilling.

Watering Pepper is responsive to watering. It is necessary that the ground around him is always sufficiently moist. Dryness of the soil weakens growth, causing flowers and ovaries to fall off. But pepper does not like waterlogged soil either. Precipitation can in no way affect the frequency of watering. They only help the grower by reducing the irrigation rate. An exception may be heavy rains or heavy rains, which provide as much moisture as when watering. Sprinkler irrigation is not performed.

The best time to water is in the morning. If it was cold at night, then watered with warm water. If the nights are warm, then in the evening they are watered with warm water settled in a barrel at the rate of 10 liters (bucket) for 15-20 bushes on clay and heavy loamy soils and 1 liter each on sandy and sandy loamy soils. Water only after loosening and very carefully, from a bucket. First, on the one hand, in order to avoid the formation of a crust around the entire bush, and on the other day, having loosened the side of the bush that was watered the day before, on the other side. This contributes to the even development of the root system.

Top dressing Two weeks after planting in the ground, the first top dressing is carried out (one teaspoon with a tubercle of urea, two teaspoons with a tubercle of superphosphate per 10 liters of water, one liter for each bush). The second top dressing is during the period of mass flowering: one teaspoon with a tubercle of urea, one matchbox of superphosphate and one teaspoon of potassium salt or potassium sulfate. All this is dissolved in 10 liters of water and watered with 1 liter under the bush. The third top dressing is given when the fruits on the first branch have reached technical ripeness, at the rate of two teaspoons with a tubercle of superphosphate and two teaspoons of potassium salt or potassium sulfate. If the seedlings are lagging behind in growth after feeding, every morning or evening for a week do foliar feeding with urea at the rate of two to three teaspoons per 10 liters of water. If it is not possible to feed daily, then one or two feeding is carried out at the rate of 30 g of urea per 10 liters of water from a sprayer or from a watering can with a grid. To make the fruits better set, add 2 g of superphosphate (for each root) to each top dressing.

Pepper yields more when fed with urea rather than mullein.

"Lunch" for pepper I grow peppers in the beds. I noticed: the cultivation of this crop on raised beds with a height of 15-25 cm and a width of 70-90 cm in the upper part of them gives a high effect.The seedlings take root better on them, ripening is accelerated by 7-10 days, the yield at the first harvest by 30-50% more than on a flat surface. And, of course, I make sure to feed my favorite culture. For nitrogen, the greatest need for pepper is manifested before flowering and during mass ripening of fruits. Its lack is indicated by the pale green color of the upper leaves, yellowing and dying off of the lower ones. I put in two to three days before planting seedlings (or for spring digging), 10-20 g per sq. m of ammonium nitrate. I feed the first feeding three to four weeks after planting, the second after the second or third harvest, before watering - 10-15 g / sq. m. Fertilizers can be dissolved in irrigation water. But you cannot exceed the norm, since pepper accumulates excess fertilizer in fruits in the form of nitrates. Pepper especially needs phosphorus at the beginning of the growing season, when the insufficiently developed root system of the plant cannot ensure its timely supply from the soil. I apply superphosphate as the main fertilizer during autumn or early spring soil digging, to a depth of 5-15 cm at 30-45 g / sq. m. The increased soil temperature on the ridges improves the solubility of phosphates. True, superphosphate should be applied only on soils poor in phosphorus. But the pepper needs potassium from the setting until the end of the ripening of the fruit. Now about watering. Before the start of fruit formation, I water at the rate of two liters of water per day per 1 sq. m, during the period of mass fruit formation - 4-6 liters per sq. m. In a wet year, pepper requires only 3-4 watering, in an average - 5-7, in a dry - 8-12. In general, during the growing season, the plant needs 400-550 liters of water per 1 sq. m. Depending on the conditions of the year, it is provided with precipitation by 20-60%, moisture reserves in the soil - by two or three, everything else - by irrigation. In a dry spring, I do pre-planting watering (20-30 liters per sq. M). Two days after planting the seedlings, for its better survival rate, I carry out refreshing watering - 10-15 liters per sq. m, if there was a pre-planting one, or 20-25 liters per sq. m, if there was none. In August, when the bulk of the fruit is formed, peppers especially need water. Moisture deficiency dramatically reduces the yield. Depending on the amount of precipitation, I water the pepper every 8-12 days. On hot days (but not in cold windy weather!), Evening sprinkling of 10-15 liters per square meter gives good results. m. I stop watering the pepper 10-15 days before the last harvest.

I start watering in the beds 7-10 days earlier than on a flat surface, since here the evaporating soil surface is larger and the plants are more powerful.

Don't overfeed. They say you can't spoil porridge with butter. But it is not always the case. The more you feed the peppers with slurry, the less they will yield. It goes on a spree, heals the plant, surprising with tops, and not fruits.

Yu.P. ANANIEV, Samara

Formation of the bush Newly appearing stepchildren and flowers that form in the lower part of the plant before its first branching are constantly cut off. They retard the development of the upper part of the bush, on which the main fruit formation takes place. Pinching, that is, pinching the top and removing excess flowers on peppers of such varieties as New Gogoshary, Golden Jubilee, Gold Medal, Gift of Moldova is done as soon as 7-10 fruits are tied, and 12-15 on Kolobok. Then each pepper will receive in full the heat, light and nutrients "due" to it. If you leave the whole ovary, then almost 80 percent of it will go to waste in the fall, since the fruits will not be able to ripen. Extra branches are also removed - they also take away a lot of nutrition from the plant.

It is best to keep the peppers under lutrasil all summer. In any weather, it maintains an ideal microclimate in the greenhouse, saves from heat and cold, and does not allow the soil to dry out.

Cool down - cover Closer to autumn, pepper plants should be protected from the first frost. Reliable protection are tents made of wooden blocks, cardboard, matting, burlap, roofing material and other materials. The bushes are covered with tents in the evening and opened in the morning when it gets warmer. At the time of frosts and prolonged cooling, temporary film shelters are used, as well as smoke and sprinkling. The material for the smoke piles is selected so that it gives off thick smoke. Sprinkling is especially effective when the unit provides a fine spray. In some years, the pepper bears fruit until October. It tolerates cold weather much better than tomato.

The harvested fruits can be stored for one or even two months in a dry, moderately warm room.

Pepper in the sleeve

In the fall, after harvesting a bountiful harvest, I leave all the mines in place. I'm not digging anything, because under them the earthworms are warm and satisfying. In the spring they wake up and begin their life-giving work. I remove the stakes, take out the sleeves, level the ground with a rake. Instead of polyethylene, you can use old boards, pieces of slate, linoleum trim to build mines.

T. V. LANDYSHEVA

The stepsons went into action. I'll tell you how I got the hang of getting strong seedlings of peppers without much hassle. It stood out in some year, early autumn. It's freezing in the yard - and my peppers are still full of peppers. I chose the strongest plants and transplanted them into indoor pots. I left the largest peppers on the bushes, and pinched off the smallest flowers. And for some time I had fresh Bulgarian peppers for salads, although not as juicy as from a real garden. When I noticed that the bushes began to shed their leaves, they slowed down in development (in December-January), let them "sleep", watered infrequently - if only they did not dry out. And on February 15-17, I decided to wake them up. I fed them with micronutrient fertilizers and a growth stimulant, my husband hung a fluorescent lamp over them, and the peppers came to life. A few days later, stepchildren appeared on each bush. I let them grow up to 10 centimeters, then cut them off and put them in the water. After a week and a half, roots appeared. While they were growing up, I prepared "apartments" for them - seedling pots. I transplanted the “young” into the ground, covered them with plastic bags to keep them warm. In April-May I took off my bags for a day. Little by little I fed it with mineral fertilizers, and when the snow melted at the dacha and it was possible to get to the pile of mullein, I brought it home a little, and poured it with solution as well.

I should have seen what a beautiful seedling I had at the time of planting it in the ground! And she gave more crops than usual.

L.V. ZUEVA

Fruit picking The first fruits of the pepper are not removed until they reach technical ripeness. Excessive injury to the bush affects its fruiting. Collecting unripe fruits, the stalks of which do not come off well (ripe fruit is easily removed), can damage the stem or part of it, on which many ovaries have formed by this time, which can grow into large fleshy fruits in 2-3 weeks. The main fruit formation begins from the end of July - the beginning of August. Therefore, correctly and timely prepare the plant for mass fruiting. August is the most favorable month for mass fruiting. From the first fruits of the pepper, which were formed in June-July, high-quality seeds are obtained for future sowing. The pepper can be left on, if possible until October 15th. However, pepper does not tolerate frost on the soil. All malformed ovaries are removed so as not to delay the development of healthy fetuses.

How to increase the yield?

For this:

• remove the central flower growing from the first fork of the pepper bush;
• improve pollination by spraying the plant during flowering with a solution of sugar or honey to attract pollinating insects.

Remember! Pepper does not like potassium chloride.

Top dressing from a barrel

During flowering, 6-7 kg of chopped nettle, plantain leaves, dandelion, woodlice, coltsfoot are placed in a 100 liter barrel, 10 liters of mullein and a glass of wood ash are added. Pour water to the top, stir and insist for 7-10 days. They are fed at the rate of 1 liter under a bush.

During fruiting, 1 bucket of mullein and 1 glass of urea are poured into a 100 liter barrel, poured with water, mixed well and infused for 4-5 days. Pepper is poured at the rate of 5 liters per 1 m2.

Pepper pests

They do not sleep and are activated during flowering and with high humidity in the greenhouse. It is difficult to deal with them, but it is necessary so as not to lose the entire crop.

Aphids This is the most dangerous pest, literally sucking sap from plants. Chemical methods of struggle - treatment with Iskra, Commander and others according to the instructions and only before the beginning of fruiting.

Spider mite Also sucks juice from pepper leaves. The method of struggle is spraying with Iskra-Bio when pests appear before fruiting. In any phase of pepper development, treatment with an infusion of garlic or onions and dandelion leaves is also effective (one glass of finely chopped garlic or onions and dandelion leaves is diluted in 10 liters of water, 2 tablespoons of liquid soap are added, the plants are filtered and sprayed).

Slugs Slugs eat leaves and damage fruits. Pollination of the soil with ground hot pepper or dry mustard (1 tsp per square meter) helps to fight them. In the fight against pests, foliar feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (10 g per 10 liters of water) and airing greenhouses are also good.

Wilting disease manifests itself in leaf fall and is usually caused by fungi. In this case, the diseased plant is removed and burned.

Folk method For 10 liters of water, add 1 glass of wood ash and tobacco dust, insist for a day and filter well, add 2 tbsp. l. liquid soap and spray. Especially carefully - the inner surface of the leaves.

What's going on, "sick"?

If the grown peppers lack nitrogen, then the leaves turn pale, then turn yellow from the main vein to the edges and fall off. Fruits are thin-walled, curved in the shape of a crescent.

Plants must be fed with slurry diluted with water 1: 5, or ammonium nitrate (15-20 g per 10 l of water).

Lack of potassium? The lower leaves are yellow, the edges dry out, but near the veins they remain green. Shoots stop growing, spots appear on the fruits.

Feed the peppers with potassium sulfate (10-15 g per 10 L of water). And until they are well, do not fertilize with calcium and magnesium.

With a deficiency of phosphorus, the leaves acquire a bluish-green hue, and then, together with the stems and petioles, turn purple-red. After the leaves curl, the stem becomes thinner, flowering is delayed, and, accordingly, the harvest, and the roots are covered with a rusty bloom.

At the first signs of starvation, dilute 0.8 g of ammophos and 2.8 g of potassium nitrate in 1 liter of water and water the plants.

Lack of zinc manifests itself as yellowish-green spots that appear on old leaves, and then turn brown, later the leaves die off.

To avoid this, sprinkle the peppers with Kemiroi Lux or Kemiroi Kombi (1 g per 1 liter of water).

If the plants lack iron, then on calcareous, "phosphated" or over-calcified soils, young peppers change color, the tissues between the green veins turn yellow or turn white, becoming, as it were, reticulate.

Sick plants need a shower from a solution with Kemira Kombi or Kemira Lux (1 g per 1 liter of water).

A lot is also bad

It happens that peppers grow well, and the ovary is small, small dark green leaves appear, the apical buds develop poorly. This is often because you overfeed the plants. Let's figure it out with what?

If the peppers grow a powerful leaf mass, and the ovary is small, this indicates an excess of nitrogen.

You can correct the situation by watering the plant abundantly, and then feeding it with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer - 10-30 g per 10 liters of water.

Potassium oversaturation is evidenced by small, dark green leaves.

Not sparing water, pour the peppers and feed them with ammophos - 15 - 20 g per 10 liters of water.

Poorly developing apical buds indicate an excess of calcium.

Pour the soil in which the peppers grow with water and feed the plants: 10-12 g of ammonium nitrate and 15-20 g of potassium sulfate for 10 liters of water.

You don't have to dive

Do I need to dive sweet pepper seedlings? Many will answer: of course! However, not everyone knows that such technology is not always a good thing, especially for delicate crops such as bell peppers.

Indeed, after this procedure, the growth of seedlings slows down - the roots of sweet pepper are very sensitive to the slightest mechanical stress.

To avoid this, try growing peppers without picking them. Pre-soak the seeds in a solution of potassium permanganate or growth stimulant, or just keep them in warm water for several hours. Cut off the bottom corner of the plastic sour cream bags so that the water can drain and fold the bag in half - you get narrow "cups". After filling them with soil, place them tightly in a box or crate. Pour the soil in bags with warm water with the addition of potassium permanganate, put 1-2 seeds in each of them and sprinkle with soil with a layer of 1 cm.Carefully cover the box with foil and place in a warm place where the air temperature is 25-27 degrees.

To prevent the earth from drying out, check the soil moisture every day, monitor the condition of the crops. As a rule, seedlings usually appear in 7-10 days. As soon as this happens, transfer the box to a bright, warm place and immediately remove the film. Five days after the emergence of seedlings, they must be fed with mineral fertilizers or peat oxidate. In the future, this should be done every 10 days. Water the seedlings as needed with warm, settled water. When the peppers grow up, the bags should be unrolled completely and filled with soil.

By the time of transplanting to a permanent place, the seedlings are easily removed from the bags and, together with a lump of soil, are transferred into the holes. This method allows you to sow seeds for seedlings not in February, as usual, but in mid-March.

Tamara Georgievna VASILEVSKAYA, Brest region, Ivatsevichi district

Let's do without dampness

If you dream of a good harvest of peppers, I advise you not to remove the film from the plants in the garden at all. But on one condition - to air the peppers every day at the hottest time of the day.

In this case, the soil in the beds must be loosened shallowly - no more than 5 cm, which will provide air access to the root system.

I usually water the peppers with a watering can once every 10 days at the rate of 10 liters per square meter. I take warm water for irrigation - at least 20-25 degrees. And if you overmoisten the soil, you won't have to wait long for diseases of the peppers. Powdery mildew will appear, and the death of plants is inevitable. However, the lack of moisture also leads to the dropping of the ovary. Remember this! Oleg Fedorovich KRASNOV, Mogilev

Light touch

There is an unusual way to get more squat and strong pepper seedlings. It was shown by graduates of the Hadlow Agricultural College at the Chelsea Flower Show in the UK.

It turned out that if you gently brush the plants with a cardboard or hand back and forth (no more than 20 times a day), the plants will grow squat and strong. The method was called “light touch”. Its "authors" believe that when irritated by touch, ethylene gas is released from the leaves, which stops the growth of plants. This method is effective for seedlings of flowers and vegetables.

Divide and rule!

On my site, I usually plant no more than a dozen peppers of different varieties. At the same time, I try to place them as far away from each other as possible, dividing them with tall tomatoes, sunflowers, and corn.

I noticed that the maximum yield is given by peppers that are grown through seedlings, on well-fertilized soft soil, with uniform moisture throughout the entire growing period. Usually I fertilize the soil with humus or compost for digging - 1.5 buckets per 1 sq. m. Subsequently, I feed it with mullein or bird droppings diluted with water 1:10 and 1:20, respectively. All this gives good results.

Vasily I. ALEYNIK, Minsk region, Volozhin district

How to feed the peppers before planting in the ground (after a couple of days)?

Irina Vladimirovna

Top dressing - after disembarkation, after a few days - disembarkation at a distance of 30 cm.

Tatiana Pavlova

Do not feed anything, for 2 days the peppers will not assimilate your feeding. When planting, put a little humus, ash, ammophoska in the hole. This will feed them for a long time.

;

plant in humus and that's it, and top dressing is already in the middle or even at the beginning of June, pour water from weeds, that's it! I plant them close)

Nikolay Panov

In the hole: a handful (as much as possible) of humus, a tablespoon of ash, 1 tablet of glyocladine (for diseases), spill the hole with a weak (pinkish) solution of potassium permanganate.

Lyudmila Petrenko

It will be possible to feed only two weeks after planting.

Alla Lebedeva

I would have fed later, after disembarkation.

vyrastisad.ru

Choosing a fertilizer for feeding peppers after planting

Pepper is one of the most popular crops in garden plots. This plant requires constant care, which includes watering, picking and feeding. To get a harvest, you need to know how to fertilize the pepper after planting.

Most of the plant components are obtained from the soil. Watering with special solutions containing organic and mineral substances helps to compensate for their deficiency.

How to fertilize peppers immediately after planting

After planting, the peppers need regular watering. For this, a weak solution of mineral fertilizer containing potassium is used. At first, 1 tbsp is enough for plants. l. solution based on ash or azofoska. After 14 days, the intensity of watering is increased.

The first full dressing is done 2 weeks after planting the plants in a permanent place. During this period, the seedlings will be able to adapt to new conditions. Organic and mineral fertilizers are used for feeding.

Organic feeding

Mullein is a universal fertilizer for vegetable crops. It contains a complex of nutrients that ensure the development of plants:

• nitrogen;
• magnesium;
• potassium;
• phosphorus;
• calcium.

Mullein is used in the form of a solution consisting of 10 parts of water and 1 part of fertilizer.

When fresh, mullein contains uric acid and burns the root system of peppers. The solution should be infused for a week to avoid negative effects on the plants.

Another type of feeding is the use of poultry droppings. It is diluted in water (proportions - 1:15) and used for irrigation. To activate the effect of nutrients, the solution is insisted for two days.

To provide the peppers with nitrogen, an infusion is prepared based on nettle or other weeds. To do this, fresh grass is crushed, after which a container is filled with it by 2/3 of its volume. The resulting mixture is filled with water and infused for a week. The finished solution is diluted in half with water and used for spraying.

Ash is a universal fertilizer for peppers. It is obtained by burning wood and other plant parts. Ash contains phosphorus, calcium and other minerals that support the growth of peppers. It is introduced into the soil between the rows of peppers, after which it is embedded in the soil by loosening. A solution can be prepared on the basis of ash. For 10 liters of water, you will need 2 glasses of this substance. The tool is left for 3 days, after which it is filtered and included in watering.

Mineral dressing

Replenishing peppers with minerals allows you to control the rates of introduced substances. For watering, a solution is prepared from the following components:

• superphosphate - 40 g;
• ammonium nitrate - 40 g;
• potassium sulfate - 20 g;
• water - 10 liters.

Use protective equipment when handling fertilizers. Substances should not enter the skin or respiratory system.

It is imperative to comply with the norms of all components. An overabundance of minerals negatively affects the development of peppers. It is especially important to control the supply of nitrogen, which, in excess, provokes the growth of leaves and stems.

Top dressing is done by irrigation. Morning or evening is chosen for processing, when there is no direct sunlight. First, you need to water the soil well. This contributes to the distribution of mineral components in the soil.

How to fertilize pepper for the ovary after planting

The second time the peppers are fed 14 days after the first treatment. During this period, fruit ovaries are formed. It is best to alternate between different types of fertilizers. If minerals were initially introduced, then after planting, the peppers will need organic feeding.

Complex feeding

Complex feeding, which combines several types of fertilizers, is especially effective for plants. It is prepared on the basis of the following substances:

• rotted manure - 1 bucket;
• urea - 1 glass;
• bird droppings - ½ bucket.

The resulting mixture is poured with water, mixed and infused for a week. For irrigation, you need ½ bucket for every 1 sq. M.

If the leaves of the plants have acquired a dark green color, and the stems have become more fragile, then phosphorus and potassium must be added to the soil. In this case, the supply of nitrogen must be reduced.

You can prepare a solution from the following components:

• potassium sulfate - 1 tsp;
• superphosphate - 1 tbsp. l .;
• water - 10 liters.

Such feeding promotes the formation of an ovary and has a positive effect on the palatability of the fruit.

Yeast solution

Baker's yeast contains protein, amino acids, iron, nitrogen, and other trace elements. Thanks to the presence of beneficial bacteria, yeast can improve the composition of the soil.

Yeast treatment has a complex effect on plants:

• increases endurance;
• stimulates growth;
• strengthens the roots;
• destroys harmful microorganisms.

For feeding peppers, a complex of substances is used:

• dry yeast - 10 g;
• ash - 0.5 l;
• sugar - 5 tbsp. l .;
• chicken droppings - 0.5 l;
• water - 10 liters.

The components are mixed and left for a week in a warm place. It is necessary to fertilize the plants only after the heat is established, when the soil warms up well.

The resulting yeast solution is diluted 1:10.

When watering, the agent should not get on the leaves and stems of plants. The liquid is introduced into the soil between the rows with plantings. The result of feeding is noticeable after a few days. The peppers begin to actively grow and form ovaries.

Conclusion

To get a good harvest of peppers, you need to provide them with complex feeding. Planting processing is carried out in two stages. Organic fertilizers are applied first to stimulate growth. They can be replaced with mineral supplements containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

The second treatment includes a complex of minerals contained in wood ash, manure and urea. At this stage, it is important to form an ovary of peppers and ensure abundant fruiting. When working with fertilizers, the norms are strictly observed: it is important to avoid oversaturation of plants with microelements.

If you feel frequent ailments, you just need to cleanse your body. How to do it

goodgrunt.ru

Top dressing of pepper after planting

Bell pepper belongs to those garden crops that like to “eat”, which means that it will have to be fertilized often and abundantly. Unlike its "relatives" - tomatoes, pepper is not afraid of overfeeding, on the contrary, there is such a rule: the more leaves on the bell pepper bushes, the more fruits ripen on them.

You can learn how to feed pepper after planting in the ground, what fertilizers to choose for this and how to draw up a feeding scheme, you can learn from this article.

What do bell peppers need

For normal development, pepper, like other vegetable crops, need very little:

• water;
• Earth;
• Sun;
• complex of minerals.

If everything is clear with watering - pepper loves frequent and abundant irrigation, then you will have to talk about other factors in more detail.

The right site is half the battle. For sweet pepper, it is necessary to choose the most sunlit area that is on level ground or on a hill (the culture does not tolerate moisture stagnation).

The soil for the pepper should be loose and fertile, the roots of the plant should be well saturated with oxygen and useful trace elements - then the harvest will delight the owner of the garden.

A plot for cultivation has been chosen since the fall, since it must first be fertilized and dug up. Onions, carrots, legumes, pumpkin plants, and greens are good precursors for bell peppers. But you should not plant pepper in place of tomatoes, potatoes and eggplant - these are plants from the same family, they have the same diseases and the same pests.

Now we can talk about the composition of the soil. First of all, peppers need the following minerals:

• Plants need nitrogen to build up green mass, which is very important for a crop such as bell pepper. A sufficient amount of nitrogen in the soil will ensure the formation of many ovaries, as well as the formation of large and beautiful fruits. But an excess of nitrogenous fertilizers can harm the garden culture - lead to a decrease in plant immunity, infection with viruses, and slow down the ripening of fruits.
• Phosphorus is necessary for pepper at the stage of fruit formation and ripening. Another function of phosphorus fertilization is to improve the development of the root system, which, in turn, contributes to the early adaptation of plants after transplantation and better absorption of water and micronutrients.
• Potassium is responsible for the beauty of the fruit - the peppers become brighter, have a dense and crispy flesh, do not wither for a long time and remain firm and juicy. Potash fertilizers can increase the content of vitamins in fruits and make them more tasty.
• Calcium is necessary for the culture in order to resist various fungal infections, such as apical rot, for example. This is why calcium fertilizers are often used for greenhouse crops or in humid climates.
• Magnesium is also necessary for sweet peppers; without this trace element, plant leaves will turn yellow and fall off, which, naturally, will affect the crop yield.

The gardener can find all the fertilizers necessary for pepper both in mineral complex additives and in organic compounds.

Important! Experienced farmers do not recommend using fresh organic fertilizers directly for sweet peppers; it is better to replace organic matter with mineral additives.

The thing is that pepper is not able to assimilate complex fertilizers - for good absorption of feeding by the roots of the culture, organic components must be decomposed into separate components.

When and how peppers are fed

Bell pepper needs several dressings, which will have to be carried out at all stages of culture development.

For fertilization, it is better to use ready-made compositions designed specifically for nightshade crops or to prepare mixtures yourself by dissolving mineral additives in water for irrigation or spraying.

Preparing the soil for planting pepper

The main work of the gardener should be directed to preliminary feeding of the soil in the area where the planting of pepper is supposed to be in the next season. Fertilization begins in the fall.

This can be done in different ways, experienced gardeners offer the following methods:

• Dig holes in the area, the depth of which is at least 35 cm. Put fresh manure mixed with sawdust and straw on the bottom of these trenches. Cover all this well with earth and tamp it, leave it like this until next season. As soon as the snow melts, they begin to dig up the ground on the site. Two days before the expected planting of pepper seedlings, the soil must be watered with a warm (about 30 degrees) solution of nitrate and urea. The next day, the soil is abundantly watered with a hot dark pink solution of potassium permanganate and covered with a thick plastic wrap. All this will help not only nourish the earth, but also disinfect it before planting pepper.
• You can also scatter humus, superphosphate and potassium sulfate over the area in the fall, evenly distribute fertilizers using a rake, thereby embedding them in the surface layer of the soil. In the spring, before digging up the site, the fertilizer complex is supplemented with urea and wood ash, which are also evenly distributed in the upper soil layer.

When the seedlings are planted in prepared soil, they can receive fertilizers in an already prepared form, which significantly speeds up the adaptation process of the pepper and contributes to better crop development.

Top dressing of seedlings

While the pepper seedlings are in the house, they need to be fed at least twice. It is advisable to do the first feeding two weeks after planting the seeds, when only cotyledon leaves are formed on the seedlings.

They do it in one of the following ways:

1. A solution of superphosphate and urea is used - the most valuable components for pepper seedlings. In 10 liters of water, you will need to dissolve 7 grams of urea and 30 grams of superphosphate, with this mixture, seedlings are not watered too abundantly, trying not to damage the delicate stems and roots.
2. In a bucket of water, you can dilute 1.5 tablespoons of potash nitrate, and pour the pepper with this composition.
3. You can replace saltpeter with a special complex of fertilizers for pepper "Kemira Lux". It is also diluted: 1.5 tablespoons per bucket of water.
4. You can prepare the following composition for peppers: a tablespoon of superphosphate and 1.5 tablespoons of foskamide, dissolved in 10 liters of water.
5. You can also dissolve 2 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate, 3 tablespoons of potassium sulfate and 3 tablespoons of superphosphate in a bucket of water.

The result of the first feeding should be enhanced seedling growth, rapid appearance of new leaves, good survival rate after picking, bright green foliage. If the pepper feels good and develops normally, you can skip the second feeding of the seedlings, but it is this fertilization stage that is responsible for the good acclimatization of the seedlings in a new place and the development of immunity.

You can re-fertilize seedlings with the following compositions:

1. In a ten-liter bucket of warm water, dissolve 20 grams of complex fertilizing such as "Kristalon".
2. Use the composition of "Kemira Lux" in the same proportion as mentioned above.
3. Dilute 70 grams of superphosphate and 300 grams of potassium salt in 10 liters of water.

After this feeding, at least two weeks should pass - only after this period of time, the seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent place (in a greenhouse or in unprotected soil).

Top dressing during transplant

Do not forget that for two years in a row, peppers are not grown in the same place - this leads to depletion of the soil, the culture absorbs all the necessary microelements. In addition, such plantings are more susceptible to infection with characteristic diseases and attacks of pests, the larvae of which are in the ground.

If the soil has been prepared correctly since the fall, it is quite enough to add such fertilizers to the holes immediately before planting seedlings:

1. Composition from a mixture of mineral and organic fertilizers. To prepare the mixture, combine 300 grams of humus or peat with 10 grams of potassium salt and 10 grams of superphosphate.
2. For each square meter of the site, you can add 40 grams of superphosphate and 15 grams of potassium chloride.
3. Instead of potassium chloride, you can supplement the superphosphate with wood ash, it will take about one glass.
4. Stir cow dung in warm water and pour pepper holes with this solution - about a liter in each hole.

Now the plants will have enough nutrients, the pepper will develop normally and form many ovaries. If the soil on the site is severely depleted, recharge may also be required at other stages of crop development.

Important! The plants themselves will tell about the lack of fertilizer in the soil - the pepper leaves will begin to turn yellow, curl, dry or fall off. All this is a signal for further feeding.

You also need to plant seedlings correctly:

• it is good if the pepper was grown in separate cups - this way the roots will suffer less during transplantation;
• two days before transplanting, the seedlings are watered abundantly with water;
• all feeding should stop two weeks before planting the pepper in the ground;
• you can deepen the seedlings right along the cotyledon leaves;
• the holes should be about 12-15 cm deep;
• each hole will require about two liters of water;
• you need to plant seedlings in the mud until the water is completely absorbed;
• pepper loves warmth very much, therefore, it is pointless to plant seedlings in the ground warmed up by less than 15 degrees - the culture will not develop, its growth will be inhibited.

Fertilizing pepper during growth

In different phases of development, pepper may need absolutely different minerals. The frequency of fertilization directly depends on the composition of the soil on the site, on the climate in the region and on the variety of bell pepper. During the growing season, the culture may need from three to five additional fertilizing.

So, at different stages, you need to fertilize pepper with the following compositions:

• Immediately before the flowering of the bushes, as well as at the stage of fruit ripening, pepper is most in dire need of nitrogen fertilization. If this component is not enough in the soil, the culture will "signal" the drying and death of the lower leaves, as well as the pallor of the top of the bushes.
• Sweet peppers need phosphorus at the very beginning of development, when the seedlings are transplanted to a permanent place. Damaged roots are not yet able to independently absorb phosphorus from the soil, this component must be added additionally.
• When the fruits are tied and formed, the bushes most of all need potassium, its deficiency is replenished with potassium fertilizers.
• In August, when the fruits are already finishing their development and are gradually ripening, the pepper most of all needs water. Water the culture as needed when the soil dries up, but this should be done at least once every 7-10 days.

All fertilizers must be applied together with water for irrigation - this will prevent burns of roots and stems, promotes better absorption of microelements. Water for irrigation should be moderately warm, it is best to use settled or rainwater.

Excessive use of fertilizers can negatively affect the yield of pepper and the general condition of the plants. But an excess of nitrogenous fertilizers can harm human health - excess nitrogen not absorbed by the culture turns into nitrates and poison the body.

Attention! You should start feeding bell peppers no earlier than two weeks after planting seedlings in the ground. With the same interval, it is recommended to carry out all subsequent fertilizing of the vegetable crop.

Organic Pepper Fertilizer

Since simple organic matter (in the form of manure, chicken droppings) is not very useful for culture, and mineral fertilizers with a high degree of probability can affect the health of the summer resident, and they are also not cheap, people have created a lot of recipes for more affordable and useful fertilizers for bell peppers.

Among such folk remedies are:

• brewing of sleeping black tea. To prepare the fertilizer, brew only large-leaf black tea, 200 grams of such a brew is poured with three liters of cold water and left to infuse for a week. Top dressing of this kind contains a lot of useful substances: magnesium, potassium, iron, calcium and sodium.
• For active growth, pepper needs potassium. You can get this component from ordinary bananas, or rather, from the peel of these tropical fruits. The peel of two bananas is poured with three liters of cold water and left for 2-3 days. The composition filtered through a sieve is poured over the peppers.
• The shells of chicken eggs also contain a lot of useful microelements, there are calcium, phosphates, and magnesium. The shell must be crushed into a fine powder, then a three-liter jar is filled with it by about half, the rest of the volume is supplemented with water. This composition is stored in a dark place until a characteristic sulfur smell appears, after which the fertilizer is ready for use. Such a composition must be used during the period of fruit setting and development.
• If there are signs of a fungal infection on the bushes, they can be treated with iodine. To do this, add a couple of drops of iodine and serum to the water (liter) - this mixture is sprayed on the bushes.
• You can also feed the peppers with yeast. Pour regular baker's fresh yeast with warm water and add a little granulated sugar. The mixture should ferment within a couple of days, after which the fertilizer is ready, you can safely water the peppers with it.
• Chicken droppings can be used to fertilize peppers only in dissolved form; dry droppings can severely burn the stems and roots of plants. The litter is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:20, this mixture is simply watered by the bushes.
• Young nettles are also a great source of micronutrients. To prepare top dressing, cut greens must be filled with water and placed in a warm place. After a couple of days, the grass will begin to settle to the bottom of the container, which means that the fertilizer has already fermented and can be used. For greater efficiency, purchased trace elements can be added to the nettle solution; the composition can be used every 10 days.

Important! You should not use fresh cow dung for fertilizing pepper - this culture does not like it.

Planting seedlings in a greenhouse and in open ground is accompanied by the same soil preparation, including fertilization and soil disinfection. But the subsequent feeding may be slightly different, since on simple beds the land still contains more useful trace elements, and garden peppers are infected with fungal infections less often than greenhouse peppers.

Fertilizers for bell peppers should be selected in accordance with the growing season of the crop, as well as depending on the condition of the plants. It often happens that the initial feeding at the stage of planting seedlings is enough - all season pepper feels great in the soil saturated with microelements. In any case, the gardener must monitor the condition of the plants until the fall, until the pepper yields its last fruits.

Only in this way will the sweet pepper harvest be plentiful, and the vegetable itself will be tasty and healthy!

How to get rid of slugs in the garden with folk remedies

The homeland of pepper is America. There and today in the regions you can find wild bushes of this culture, which grows exclusively in our gardens. This is a very thermophilic plant, but at the same time it is moisture-loving. Pepper is a typical member of the nightshade family, it has a capricious character, therefore, when growing it, certain agrotechnical rules must be observed.

Growing from seedlings

This method is the only one. To begin with, the seeds, prepared in advance, are planted in the ground. You need to take only fresh planting material. Gardeners need to correctly calculate the time for planting seedlings in the ground and plant seeds fifty or sixty days before that. It must be remembered that this is a rather responsible process on which the further harvest depends. The seeds can be placed in trays or pots, which should then be rearranged to a warm place.

Before sowing, the planting material should be prepared in advance: for this, it must be placed in a specially prepared etchant. It is a 1% manganese solution. The seeds are left in it for fifteen minutes, then washed and wrapped in a wet cloth for three days.

Top dressing of seedlings

When the seedlings are grown, they need feeding. For this representative of the nightshade, this procedure is needed every ten days. In total, feeding the peppers at the seedling stage is carried out two or three times. The first time it is done when two leaves appear on the planting material. Moreover, if a pick was carried out before, then feeding should be given after fifteen days, but not earlier. Top dressing of peppers at the seedling stage is done with mineral fertilizers or compost. You need to know that this plant tolerates fresh manure very poorly. On the sixtieth day, the seedlings are planted in the ground. The ideal time for planting is early June, when the danger of frost is practically reduced to naught.

After disembarking in an open area

Top dressing of pepper in the ground will be required throughout the entire period of growth of this culture, until the first fruits appear on the bush and until they are fully ripe. It is carried out in several stages in an open area in the garden.

The first feeding of pepper is done fifteen to twenty days after planting the seedlings on the site. During this time, the seedlings already have time to take root and get stronger, and therefore are already ready to accept and assimilate fertilizers. The first top dressing of pepper is a mixture of five grams of superphosphate and ten grams of urea. They are diluted in a bucket of water, mixed thoroughly. After that, the resulting solution is poured under the seedlings. Each bush will need about a liter of this fertilizer. In this case, you need to be very careful so that the solution does not get on the leaves.

During tying

The next stage is feeding the pepper during flowering. It should be carried out during the period when the buds are tied and ripen. At this time, the plant strongly needs such a nutrient as potassium. Therefore, you need to dilute one teaspoon of potassium in a bucket of water, add the same amount of carbamide and twenty grams of superphosphate. The solution needs to be mixed well. One liter of the resulting fertilizer is poured under each bush. Experts recommend adding a substance such as superphosphate only if the soil is deprived of phosphorus.

After fruit ripening

At this time, the third feeding of the peppers is carried out. During fruiting, the plant is fertilized with a solution prepared in the following ratio: two teaspoons of superphosphate and potassium salt in ten liters of water. After thoroughly mixing, as in the first two dressings, the fertilizer is fed under the bush in the same amount - a liter for each bush. If the gardener notices that this nightshade crop begins to grow poorly, then in this case it should be fed with carbamide in the proportion of thirty grams per bucket of water. The solution is thoroughly mixed and the plant is sprayed with it for a week.

Yeast

This product is known to everyone. Yeast is based on fungi, which are rich in proteins, amino acids, organic iron and a wide variety of micro and macro elements. But few people know that this is an excellent top dressing for tomatoes and peppers. This product contains many substances that have a positive effect on the growth of vegetative mass. In addition, feeding peppers with yeast at the seedling stage increases the endurance of seedlings, accelerates root formation. Due to the fungi contained in them, the composition of the soil is rebuilt and the activity of many microorganisms is activated. As a result, it creates a favorable environment for plants to begin to process organic matter faster.

Feeding peppers with yeast is very effective. Fertilizer is prepared in just a couple of minutes. To do this, ten grams of dry yeast is diluted in ten liters of water, five tablespoons of sugar and half a liter of wood ash and chicken droppings are added there. The resulting solution is again diluted 1:10. Then the bushes are watered with it very carefully so as not to damage the roots.

You should not get too carried away with yeast feeding, so as not to harm the plant. In order to have the best results, it is quite enough to carry out only two or three procedures for the entire season. A similar result can be obtained by watering peppers and tomatoes with regular beer. Many, of course, cannot afford buying such an amount of this not entirely cheap drink, so gardeners most often use baker's yeast. Fertilizer from this product for tomatoes and peppers is a real biological growth stimulator, moreover, alive. The results of feeding can be seen within five to six days. The bushes literally begin to increase in size before our eyes, and the leaves on them become fleshy.

Top dressing of peppers in greenhouses

Interestingly, plants grown in greenhouses need to be fertilized according to a separate scheme. The first feeding of pepper in the greenhouse is carried out two weeks after the seedlings are planted in the ground. It is carried out with a solution of bird droppings or mullein, mixed with water in a ratio of 1:15. Each bush is fertilized with the resulting mixture.

After flowering, a second feeding of pepper is carried out in the greenhouse. For this, a mixture of mullein with water is used, supplemented with mineral fertilizers. After the first harvest ripens and is harvested, the third stage of feeding is carried out. It is carried out in the same way as the second one. If the soil in the greenhouse is depleted, it is possible to carry out a fourth feeding, for which a solution of superphosphate and mineral fertilizers is used.

Gardeners need to know what a particular fertilizer is intended for, what it affects and what can happen in case of an overdose. Do not overuse organic matter just before planting seedlings. It is better to apply a full dose of phosphorus and potassium minerals in the fall - for plowing, as well as during sowing.

Nitrogen fertilizers have an excellent effect on the number of ovaries, as well as on the size of the fruit. But excessive feeding of pepper with them leads to a delay in ripening, as well as to a decrease in the plant's immunity to certain diseases. At the same time, the lack of nitrogen, in turn, affects the loss of fertility of peppers and even to oppression of the plant.

If the soil contains the required amount of phosphorus, then the rate of ripening of fruits increases, and the roots become strong. Whereas the lack of this substance leads to the fact that the leaves turn purple. Top dressing of pepper with potassium has a positive effect on the brightness of the color of the fruit, and the lack of it leads to reddening of the bushes. In turn, a lack of magnesium can result from curling or yellowing of the foliage.

You need to know

Before starting to introduce fertilizers, it is better to analyze the soil. This is necessary to determine the additives that the plant needs. Top dressing of peppers, including at the seedling stage, is essential for a good harvest of these vegetables. The normalized introduction of fertilizers is very important - according to the scheme, so as not to overfeed the crop.

Pepper, which is properly looked after, feeding on time, will surely thank the gardener with good growth and, most importantly, with healthy and juicy fruits.

Pepper is one of the most popular garden crops. Many believe that it is not so easy to achieve a good harvest, but it is not so - with proper care, even a novice summer resident can get a bountiful harvest of juicy and spicy vegetables.

Top dressing has a great influence on the growth and development of the plant.

The needs of culture

All inhabitants of the beds need fertilizers, and peppers are no exception. In order for a vegetable to please with its fruits, it needs to be surrounded with attention and care, and in addition, to make regular feeding.

The signs of a lack of nutrients are known to everyone: the foliage turns yellow and turns light green, the stems become thinner and elongated, and the root system develops very poorly. This suggests the need to feed the plant. If you do not pay attention to the signals of a growing bush, then the plants begin to wither and even die.

If the peppers in the garden:

• Yellowness appeared on the leaves, their color became lighter, and the number of flowers that appeared is very small - this may indicate a lack of nitrogen, in this case the plant can be helped by an infusion of mullein or urea.
• Specks of a yellow-gray hue appear on the leaf plates, and they themselves curl - this is a lack of calcium, the plant requires nitrogen and potassium fertilizers.
• The foliage acquires a reddish or bluish tint - try adding superphosphate to the ground, the plant is likely to have little phosphorus.

It should be noted that different types of peppers need different types of fertilizers. For example, sweet red peppers respond best to rotted cow dung or bird droppings. For the best growth and development of bell peppers, yeast and ash are used, exotic chili pepper also prefers ash infusions, but decorative varieties require complex mineral dressings. That is why, if the application of fertilizers does not improve the condition of the plant, then it makes sense to revise the feeding scheme and use other formulations.

Plant feeding will be even more effective if you prepare the land in which you plan to plant the crop. To do this, it is dug up in the fall with manure or compost at the rate of 1 bucket per square meter of land.

For normal growth and development, the plant requires the following trace elements:

• Nitrogen is required by plants during the period of active formation of ovaries, it has the most beneficial effect on the formation of fruits, however, an excess of this element can lead to the opposite result - fruiting begins much later. In addition, nitrogen-containing components can increase the resistance of peppers to most diseases of a fungal and bacterial nature.
• Phosphorus affects the rate of fruit ripening, and also strengthens the root system and its resistance to garden pests.
• From potassium the type of fruit largely depends. When this element is supplied in sufficient quantities, the vegetable becomes colorful, bright and "filling", but if the soil is deficient in potassium, the peppers grow faded and twisted.
• Magnesium responsible for the green part of the plant, due to which photosynthesis occurs and the cells of the pepper are enriched with oxygen.

Fertilizer types

For peppers, several types of dressings are used and, accordingly, various types of fertilizers.

Organic

Organic substances significantly improve soil fertility, therefore, any fruit crop responds well to the introduction of such dressings. To fertilize peppers, you can use:

• mullein (cow dung) it significantly strengthens the immunity of the plant, increases its resistance to various diseases and protects against dangerous viral infections;
• bird droppings- has a strong vitamin composition and contains all the minerals necessary for growth and development;
• ash- this is one of the most favorite baits of peppers, it is a rich source of potassium, in which the plant has an increased need;

• infusion of horsetail or nettle- these are cheap and affordable options for everyone, since these plants can be found everywhere, but at the same time they contain a lot of vitamins B and A, and also have the necessary supply of calcium;
• sleeping tea- the tea leaves contain a large amount of calcium, as well as sodium, magnesium and iron, which are responsible for the formation of the ovary and the growth of pepper fruits;
• banana peel- this is a real pantry of potassium, which is especially necessary for plants during the growth period, therefore, such fertilizing should be used at least three times during the growing season;
• eggshell- contains potassium, phosphorus and magnesium, so its use helps the peppers to grow and develop fully.

Mineral

The main component of mineral formulations for peppers is iodine, which has the most beneficial effects on growing vegetables:

• significantly increases productivity;
• increases the content of ascorbic acid in the fruit;
• improves the appearance, taste and aroma of peppers;
• influences the size of products.

Everyone knows that for the full development of plants, nitrogen is needed, which increases the immunity of the plant and contributes to the maximum growth of fruits, and iodine helps to improve its absorption by vegetable crops. Without iodine, the necessary nitrogen will be absorbed worse and the subcortex will become less effective.

Such fertilizers, as a rule, are purchased ready-made in a specialized store. They are best used in liquid form. Today, you can find a variety of formulations and preparations that contain a different set of minerals.

Experienced gardeners prefer three types of mixtures:

• "GUMI Kuznetsova"- a drug with a high content of sodium, potassium, and nitrogen. It not only improves the strength of the plant, but also helps to increase its resistance to various unfavorable environmental factors.
• "Ideal"- the composition is used for the growth and development of a large and powerful root system, and also affects the immunity to fungal diseases of the culture and attacks of garden pests.
• "Orton Micro Fe"- most often used for seedlings, but can also be used for an adult plant, improves photosynthesis and vegetation of the bush.

Complex feeding

Complex feeding can be double or triple, depending on the number of components. They can be ready-made - for example, the "Clean sheet" composition, or they can be made independently.

• infusion of fresh mullein (1 kg) with superphosphate (2 tablespoons);
• superphosphate with urea - 2 tbsp. l., dissolved in water;
• yeast solution (100 g) with sugar (50 g).

When compiling such fertilizers, it is important to strictly observe the dosages, since an excess of fertilizers can have the opposite effect and have a deplorable effect on the growth and development of fruits.

For peppers, foliar feeding is very important, which is spraying the ground part of the bush. Thanks to this effect, the peppers receive all the required trace elements through the stems and leaves.

How to deposit?

Fertilizing for peppers has its own specifics.

Root feeding, regardless of whether you are growing a plant in open ground, under a film or in a greenhouse, is carried out according to the following scheme:

• fertilizers are applied every 2 weeks after planting;
• before feeding, water the plants abundantly with lukewarm water so that the earthen lump is moist;
• mineral and organic fertilizing should be alternated;
• after fertilization, the soil must be slightly loosened.

The first feeding is needed organic, and the substrate should not be fresh.

If you plant a plant in an area fertilized with fresh manure or bird droppings, the fruits will absorb nitrogen from the ground, which can adversely affect the fruits and cause poisoning when consumed.

Shortly before the beginning of the formation of ovaries, special feeding should be carried out. This will require:

• water - 100 l;
• urea - 1 glass;
• rotted manure - 1 bucket;
• bird droppings - 2 kg.

All components must be thoroughly mixed and allowed to stand for about 7-10 days. Then the soil is fertilized so that for each square meter of planting there is half a bucket of fertilizer.

When flowers appear and the ovary begins to form, the pepper especially needs potassium. To do this, you can use ready-made fertilizers, for example, "Urea".

In addition, Ecohuminat, Eurochem, Novalon or Topers can be used to stimulate the formation of new ovaries. These fertilizers are used dry, pouring about a handful of the preparation under each bush, after which it is poured abundantly with warm water.

Many gardeners doubt whether it is worth watering the peppers at the time of fruiting, but this can be done. If you want to achieve the most beautiful presentation of peppers and accelerate its ripening, experts recommend at this moment to use superphosphate, potassium salt in a mixture with a small amount of organic additives.

If you want to significantly increase the amount of the crop harvested from each bush, during the opening of its flowers, treat the bush with a solution of ordinary sugar and in water with the addition of boric acid from a pharmacy in a ratio of 100 g of sugar, 2 g of boric acid and 1 liter of water. Such spraying will attract bees and other insects, thanks to which the flowers are actively pollinated. This procedure should be repeated once a week.

Many summer residents are categorically against the use of any chemistry in their own personal plot. If you belong to this category of vegetable growers, then you better use folk remedies, the effectiveness of which has been tested for centuries.

The introduction of wood ash very well stimulates the growth and development of the pepper culture - for this, it is stirred in water at the rate of 1 tbsp. l. for 2 liters of hot water. The resulting mixture should be mixed and allowed to brew for a day, after which the solution should be filtered and used for watering. Ash is an invaluable source of minerals, and in addition, it helps to maintain the optimum acidity of the soil.

An organic additive such as egg shells has proven itself well. To prepare an effective fertilizer, you should take the shells of 2-3 eggs, rinse, dry, crush into flour and insist in 3 liters of water for 3-4 days. During this time, the liquid is saturated with calcium, magnesium, iron and potassium and becomes an excellent fertilizer.

Before use, the resulting concentrate should be diluted with water in a ratio of 1 to 3.

Another great recipe is onion peel tincture. To prepare it, you should take 20 g of husk, pour 5 liters of water and let it brew for one week. The husk gives the water micronutrients, and in addition, disinfects it.

Lovers of coffee and tea will love making fertilizers from dormant tea leaves and coffee grounds - such additives enrich the soil with nitrogen and facilitate the flow of oxygen to the roots.

Banana peels should not be thrown away either - you can pollinate the ground under the bush with dried and chopped skins, or you can make an infusion from them. In any case, such supplements are excellent sources of potassium, which is very important for the normal formation of bell peppers.

Experienced summer residents use kitchen waste everywhere: stale bread, sour fermented milk products, as well as plant residues of indoor and garden plants.

Infusions of weeds, which can be found in every area or in a nearby meadow, work very well on plants. For this, nettle, dandelion leaves, plantain, woodlice or horsetail are useful. Leaves, stems and young shoots of these plants should be finely chopped, filled with warm water and left to infuse for 5-7 days. The soil is fertilized with a similar composition so that under each bush there is 0.7-1 liter of top dressing.

For information on how to effectively make a top dressing for pepper, see the next video.