Fire Safety Encyclopedia

The bas-relief on the wall is a stylish interior decoration. Bas-relief on the wall - the best ideas for design and modern sculpture (115 photos) What do bas-reliefs with profiles on the walls mean

I want to make my home beautiful and original. The safest way is to use unique homemade jewelry. One of the very interesting ways is a bas-relief on the wall. This is a volumetric image sculpted from plaster or any other similar material. Gypsum in its pure form is used very rarely - it hardens too quickly, without giving time for processing. Most often, gypsum plaster mixes are used. They come with additives that make the job easier. With them, you can make a voluminous wall panel with your own hands, even without experience.

General technology for creating a bas-relief

To make a bas-relief on the wall, you first need to prepare it: clean it, level it. Already on a level and completely dry surface, you can start working. When you are going to make large bas-reliefs, it is advisable to prime the wall - for better adhesion of the composition to the wall.

The bas-relief on the wall can be of varying degrees of difficulty. This one is difficult. For beginners, it is clearly overwhelming. But you know what can be done in the future

For the first experience, it is better to start with small items - such as medallions (round or square) with simple relief images. It is best to take moisture resistant as a basis for such products. A frame can be made under it (from a profile, for example). In this form, the volumetric composition can be outweighed from place to place. This makes it easier to master the basics of technology.


This is the whole technology in general terms. There are nuances worth dwelling on separately. The first concerns the application of a starting layer of putty on the walls and the transfer of the picture. In more complex compositions, the bas-relief on the wall begins with the transfer of the contours of the drawing. This is done with a pencil or crayon (if you know how to draw) or with the help of an image printed in the required size and a carbon copy attached to it. Then the places where we will apply the putty are covered with primer (for better adhesion), and then with the help of mastechins (small spatulas of different shapes) we apply the first layer of material. Further, the sequence of actions is similar to that described.

Materials for creating a bas-relief

The most common question among beginners: what kind of putty is better to take for making a bas-relief? In principle, any finishing gypsum plaster is suitable. Each master has his own favorite brands and compositions. Here are a few to recommend:

  • Knauf Uniflot. Very durable and flexible. You can form a deep relief from it - it will not fall off even without reinforcement. Disadvantage: dear.
  • Fugen. Slightly less durable, cut slightly worse. Much cheaper than Knauf Uniflot (almost three times). You can also make a relief without any problems.
  • PUFAS. It is a gypsum plaster with cellulose fiber. The processing time is about 60 minutes, it is applied with a layer of any thickness, it is well cut, it is easy to grind.
  • Rotband for the lower layers and Shitrock for the upper ones.
  • "Acryl Putz" (Poland). Finished acrylic putty. The good thing is that it slowly "grasps", it takes an hour or more to work out the details (depending on the humidity in the room).

In addition, impregnations are required. They are selected based on the starting characteristics of the material. There are compounds that strengthen crumbling materials by penetrating deeply and binding the particles of materials to each other. This is necessary, since gypsum panels weigh decently, create an additional load. Without preliminary preparation, they can fall off from fragile bases. You can use PUFAS moisture-proof soil concentrate. It is suitable for all mineral substrates including wood and wood-based panels. Moisture protection Aquastop is suitable for loose substrates.

In addition, the following compositions are used:

  • before starting work - to improve adhesion to the wall material (or base);
  • for layer-by-layer processing - when creating a deep relief, when one layer of putty is applied to the already dried, applied earlier;
  • for finishing impregnation before painting - to level the absorbency and so that the paint lays down evenly, emphasizing the relief, and not hiding it.

For layer-by-layer processing, primers are needed, which create a sticky, rough surface on the surface. In this case, you can put a new layer of putty even on the already dried surface. Ceresit deep penetration primer and PUFAS impregnating primer are suitable for these purposes. They can also be used for finishing before painting.

Instruments

Tools for creating a bas-relief are needed for two types of work - for applying putty and for removing / cutting off excess mortar. Therefore, the set of tools and devices is quite extensive. For applying putty or decorative paints use:


These are all the tools you might need. Necessary: ​​trowels, spatula, chisels. Palette knives are very convenient, it is difficult without scalpels and a pastry syringe. Stacks, on the other hand, are a tool for perfectionists to fine-tune the relief.

Making a bas-relief from gypsum plaster: photo report

For the relief painting on the wall, a sea theme was chosen - with fish, octopus, algae. A great option for getting your first experience! A light pattern that can be formed gradually.

Preparatory work

Drawing with a pencil is transferred to a pre-leveled and primed surface. For the production of the bas-relief, SHITROK / SHEETROCK gypsum plaster (with a finer grinding) is used. When diluting the solution, a smaller amount of water is added: take 0.5 liters of water per kilogram of the mixture (instead of 0.6 as recommended). With such a batch, the composition turns out to be harsh, but it is this one that is better for making a relief image on the wall.

Mix a small amount of mortar immediately: gypsum plaster quickly loses its elasticity (15-17 minutes) and you need to have time to not only lay out the entire volume on the wall, but also align and give the desired shape. For the first time, knead 300-400 grams, lay out, give some shape. If in the process you feel that you can handle the larger volume, knead more.

Little by little, spread the solution with a palette knife, filling the contour of the algae, cut off the excess, smooth it out as much as possible

With this tactic - small portions of the solution - most of the time is spent precisely on mixing the putty. It is better to knead in a bowl with high sides - a bucket or a saucepan. However, it is difficult to remove the frozen solution from them. If there is an old ball in the house, you can cut off the top and knead the putty in it. Even small particles are easily removed from such a container.

Pour the powder into the container, add clean cold water, mix quickly with a spatula, then bring the composition to homogeneity, leave for 5 minutes, then mix again. There should be a homogeneous thick paste without lumps or irregularities. The time of holding and "setting" is indicated on the packaging with the putty, if you use a different composition, follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

Formation of small parts

For starters, it's easier to start with shallow terrain. When forming small parts, we take a small amount of mortar on a trowel, apply it to the right place, trying to smear it well so that the adhesion of the mortar to the wall is good. If the wall is covered with a primer that improves adhesion (the surface is slightly rough and sticky to the touch), there will be no problem. If the details are very small - like the tentacles of a jellyfish - it is more convenient to put the solution with a palette knife.

A bas-relief of a jellyfish made of plaster or acrylic putty is not much more difficult to make ...

Having laid out the mixed portion of the solution on the wall, we immediately proceed to leveling and forming the relief. We work with the edge of a trowel, palette knives, knives, chisels, scalpels - everything that is at hand and that can give the surface of the desired shape. If the part has already dried out in the process, but has not yet been finalized, you can moisten it with a spray bottle and try to modify it after a few minutes. When you achieve the desired degree of perfection, clean the mixing container of the remaining solution and mix a new batch. Note: the container must be absolutely clean... The smallest particles will leave scratches.

We form the main reliefs

When making a bas-relief that will protrude beyond the wall by no more than 2 cm, no reinforcing structures are required. With a greater thickness, in those places where a layer thicker than 2 cm is planned, self-tapping screws are screwed in. It will be possible to navigate by them when applying the plaster, they will also support the solution, preventing it from slipping.

The fish and the shell have a larger volume - in some places more than 2 cm.Here we screw in self-tapping screws for reinforcement

In this bas-relief, the most prominent parts are fish and a shell with a pearl. In those places where a thick layer will be laid and screw in self-tapping screws. We roll the pearl separately, making a ball and putting it on a self-tapping screw.

The thickest place is the head

In places where the relief is supposed to be deep, you can apply the solution not at one time, but in several layers. In this case, it is not at all necessary to smooth the layers. The more uneven the surface is, the easier it will be to apply the next layer. When the desired volume is reached in a certain area (for example, the head of a fish), we begin to work on small details - eyes, whiskers, gills, etc.

When working out small details, knead no more than 100-200 grams of solution - while cutting, leveling, the solution sets, so large portions are simply not needed.

After the drawing from the putty on the wall is ready, it is left for a couple of days until it dries completely. Then you can start sanding - we take sandpaper with a medium grain, process, achieving the desired smoothness. When the relief is ready, we polish it with fine-grained sandpaper.

Two days or more, elements with a deep relief can dry. Smaller ones - algae, waves, jellyfish - dry out faster. You can start with them. While you are bringing them to mind, thicker parts will also dry out. After sanding is completely finished, remove dust with a thick brush. Vacuum if desired. Next, we cover the decorative plaster panel with a deep penetration primer.

The last step in making a bas-relief on the wall is painting. Everyone chooses the method of coloring himself. In this case, the usual water-based emulsion was used (the primer was under water-based paints). On this we can assume that you made a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands. In this case, the result is a large composition on two free adjoining walls.


One tip: the bas-relief on the wall looks better with specially designed lighting. So pull the ends out before leveling the wall. After leveling and priming the surface, install those lamps with those lamps with which you will further highlight the relief picture. In this light, it will be necessary to grind the volumetric panel made by you from the plaster mixture. Only in this case everything will look good. Because if the work is carried out under different lighting conditions, you may find "nightmare and horror" when installing standard lamps.

Bas-relief on the wall: photo ideas

Without experience, it is very difficult to understand what and how can be done using ordinary gypsum plaster. In fact, three-dimensional plaster paintings can be of very different subjects, but the most common are flowers, trees and landscapes (urban, suburban). In this section, we have collected a number of the most diverse bas-reliefs on the wall. With their help, you can imagine yourself a theme for art sculpting on the walls. In fact, the process is similar to working with plasticine.



















1. Since ancient times, man has sought to decorate his home. For this, wooden or stone decorations, graceful decorative elements, paintings by great masters of painting and sculpture were used.

One of the most sophisticated techniques for decorating a home's interior is a bas-relief.

You can transform even the simplest apartment if you make a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands
What is a bas-relief?

This is a three-dimensional image made of plaster, mounted on the wall or on the ceiling. Moreover, if the image appears
more than half - this technique is called high relief, if less - a bas-relief. Of course, the bas-relief is an exclusive work,
which can transform even the most ordinary apartment. This technique has been known since ancient times, however, in our time it is becoming more and more
popular.


It is believed that the application of a bas-relief is the lot of professional craftsmen and artists. However, as we will see in this article,
it is not the gods who burn the pots. Mastering the technique of applying a bas-relief is quite accessible to each of us. The main thing is that there would be a desire and knowledge of some of the nuances, which we will discuss below.


On bas-reliefs, plants, flowers, animals, or some kind of plot paintings are most often depicted. A small bas-relief can be done on a tablet, which, in its
the queue is already mounted on the wall. Larger images are made directly on the wall.

The main stages of making a bas-relief

2. So, you firmly decided to place a bas-relief on one of your walls, and you want to do this work with your own hands. First of all, you need to choose the wall on which your bas-relief will be placed. It is very important to evaluate at this stage what kind of lighting - daylight or electric, at what angle will illuminate this place on the wall.


Next, select the image. If you do not have experience in drawing bas-reliefs, you should not take on complex plot paintings. The truth is very simple and
boring images, although simple to perform, are unlikely to be of interest to you. Take pictures of flowers or trees. The main thing is that already on
at this stage, the image was pleasant and delighted you. Also, we do not recommend a beginner sculptor to take on large images. Start with small ones on a tablet - this can be fiberboard or drywall.
With the image selected, let's get to work.

The material from which the image is made can be clay, alabaster, gypsum. For beginners, plaster or gypsum plaster is recommended.
Now we need to make a stencil. By the way, for the first experiments it is quite possible to use ready-made stencils that are sold in hardware stores.
If you decide to make a stencil yourself, then you will need carbon paper and stencil material - best if it is plastic.
We carefully transfer the image using carbon paper and a pencil to plastic, and then cut out the stencil. We cut the holes carefully without leaving any burrs.
Keep in mind that the stencil can only be used once, so if you intend to apply
on the wall of an ornament - a repeating pattern, it is necessary to prepare the required number of stencils in advance.


The wall on which the bas-relief will be placed must be flat and smooth. The wall must be primed before applying the bas-relief.
We attach the stencil to the wall in a previously determined place using glue or masking tape.
Then we apply a fine-grained putty to the stencil. In hardware stores, you can buy a ready-made putty, or dilute a dry putty
independently - it should be a viscous mass. This consistency is most suitable for working with bas-reliefs.
The putty must be applied in such a way that the holes in the stencil are completely filled with the putty.
With a spatula, press the putty into the stencil properly.


When the putty hardens, carefully remove the stencil. If necessary, grind the resulting pattern with sandpaper.


This completes the work with the bas-relief.

Painting the bas-relief

3. In order to make the bas-relief more interesting, it can be covered with paint.
The painting of the bas-relief is carried out before removing the stencil, especially if painting is done using aerosol paints. It is important to
the stencil was intact, otherwise you will also "paint" part of the wall. The bas-relief, especially the ornamental pattern, is covered with gold or mother-of-pearl paint to create a greater effect.


When painting a bas-relief depicting representatives of flora and fauna, an interesting technique can be used, in which dark paint is first applied, and then, leaving dark contours,
light. This produces a richer and deeper image.
It is important to remember that you can start painting only after the putty is completely dry. As a rule, one day after applying the bas-relief.

There are many different techniques for applying a bas-relief on a wall, but they all require certain knowledge and skills. Therefore, if you are new to this subject, start with the technique described above.

Video: DIY master class bas-relief on the wall

Do-it-yourself bas-relief on the wall will give your home an original and unique look. Plain and plain walls quickly get bored, and original and beautifully executed bas-reliefs, if properly located, will delight the owners for a long time and astonish the guests.

People have always strived to make their home beautiful, decorating their homes with carved elements of wood or stone, original plaster and other materials. But bas-reliefs have always been considered the most expensive, sophisticated and high-status decorative elements. They look exquisite and creative and are in harmony with almost any design.

The bas-relief is a three-dimensional decorative element protruding above the wall, with images of people, animals, mythical creatures, birds, plants, flowers, fruits or flowers.

The bas-relief is appropriate in different rooms. In the living room, using this volumetric element, you can make a unique modern interior or give your home the look of an old palace or castle. A large volumetric panel above the bed or on the entire wall looks great in the bedroom. In the kitchen, the panel is appropriate in a recreation area or in a kitchen apron. If the area allows, then the bas-reliefs can be placed in the hallway and in the bathroom.

The bas-relief goes well with many finishing materials: wood, plaster, leather, marble and mirrors.

The bas-relief can be made the main compositional center of the room. But the dwelling will be transformed even with the addition of several stucco elements on the walls.

What are the bas-reliefs on the wall?

It all depends on the design decision. Here are some options:

Simple bas-reliefs on the wall in the form of baguettes for paintings of different sizes look rich and respectable.

The bas-reliefs in the form of edging at the top of the wall look luxurious, but not provocative. Such bas-reliefs will complement a monophonic wall on which photographs or paintings are placed, shelves with collections or souvenirs.

Wall murals or paintings with plant designs look especially good with backlighting. The maximum decorative effect can be achieved with the correct illumination of the volumetric image. Such bas-reliefs fit perfectly into the space.

The bas-reliefs, which depict trees, mountains, lakes and any other corners of nature, are distinguished by their originality.

Subject volumetric bas-reliefs are the most difficult to perform. They can occupy the entire wall or be located in one corner.

Benefits of a bas-relief

A three-dimensional wall panel always attracts attention at first sight. In terms of aesthetics, no type of decoration can be compared with a bas-relief.

Benefits of a bas-relief:

  • originality;
  • showiness;
  • volumetricness, which allows you to hide the unevenness of the wall;
  • creating smooth transitions between different functional areas;
  • an excellent solution for decorating fireplaces, arches and openings.

The volumetric image can be performed directly on the wall, or assembled from slabs with a previously prepared relief.

If a figured element protrudes above the surface by less than half the volume, it is called a bas-relief. If higher, then this is a high relief.

Bas-relief as an element of the interior

Wall panel- a one-stop solution for all styles. For example, a voluminous tree with branches, a climbing vine or an abstract pattern is used when you need to fill an empty wall without overloading the space. The use of bas-reliefs in apartments helps to visually change the room and hide surface imperfections.

The bas-relief can be made in the form of an ornament, decorate the walls with small scattered fragments, or make it a central composition. Volumetric compositions can be used to decorate a niche or any recess in the wall. Additional lighting will add accents and give the interior a sense of completeness.

In the kitchen, bas-reliefs with still lifes, with images of pets, kitchen utensils, fruits and vegetables, are appropriate.

In the children's room, the wall panel should be light and airy, so that the child learns the world in bright colors from childhood. Bas-reliefs should be decorated with angels, fairies, magic birds, fairy castles, butterflies, flowers and cartoon characters. Such compositions fill the nursery with charm and fairy tale.

The bas-reliefs in the living room go well with wrought iron and stone. Therefore, if a fireplace is installed in the living room, then the bas-relief above it will become a real decoration of the room.

Bas-relief in the living room above the fireplace

Flowers, angels, gentle, amorous scenes from medieval paintings look organically on the bas-reliefs in the bedroom. The room is filled with peace and tranquility.

A bas-relief can be created in several ways:

  • sculpting a bas-relief directly on the wall surface;
  • by making individual elements with subsequent fastening to the surface;
  • creating a three-dimensional picture on a solid base.

A novelty in the field of creating a bas-relief is a new-bas-relief. They are flexible boards with an already applied pattern.

Distinctive features of the new-bas-reliefs:

  • installation is possible on any surface;
  • high rates of noise and heat insulation;
  • plates are flexible, do not break;
  • increased thermal and moisture resistance;
  • safe for humans and the environment.
  • easy installation, using a special adhesive, according to the numbering.

Bas-relief painting

Even the simplest three-dimensional painting will ennoble the room, make it solemn and elegant.

You can try your hand by starting with the creation of a bas-relief picture.

Why exactly from the picture? The advantages of such a voluminous panel:

  • for the bas-relief of the picture, no preparation of the wall is required;
  • the decoration in the room will not be spoiled even if the painting has failed: you can postpone and redo the work later;
  • bas-relief - the picture can always be moved to another place, donated or taken to a new apartment.

Required tools and materials

To create a bas-relief with your own hands, you need to purchase materials and tools for work in construction and art stores.

List of devices and materials for work:

  • pencil;
  • sketch of the drawing;
  • pen or marker;
  • stencils;
  • palette knives;
  • brushes;
  • polyethylene film;
  • trowel;
  • container for mixing the mixture;
  • putty knife;
  • scrapers;
  • sandpaper;
  • abrasive sponges with different hardness;
  • colored colors or paint;
  • gypsum, plaster putty, clay or alabaster;
  • primer;
  • masking tape;
  • gloves.

Palette knives are special spatulas of different sizes, with the help of which volumetric images are created.

Materials for creating bas-reliefs

To create a three-dimensional panel on the wall, use materials to your liking. This could be:

  • gypsum;
  • alabaster;
  • putty;
  • clay;
  • gypsum or decorative plaster.

Gypsum has been the most demanded building material for many years. This natural and environmentally friendly material is the best option for creating bas-reliefs. With it you can create decors of simple complex configuration. Acrylic paints will protect bas-reliefs from ultraviolet rays and from precipitation, if they are located outdoors. And the use of modern varnishes, primers and adhesives will make your masterpieces durable and durable.

Several years ago, they began to make polyurethane bas-reliefs. Plastic foamed using a special technology has become very popular and in demand due to its advantages:

  • it is practically eternal;
  • does not fade;
  • not afraid of moisture;
  • does not absorb odors;
  • resistant to temperature extremes;
  • It does not require special care;
  • ecologicaly clean.

Polyurethane bas-reliefs are an excellent solution for installation in kitchens, bathrooms, saunas and swimming pools.

How to start work on creating a bas-relief?

  • The first step is to decide on the interior of the room.
  • The second step is the choice of the room and surface on which you plan to place the volumetric composition.
  • The third step is preparing the sketch.

When choosing a sketch, it is necessary to take into account its size and wall area: the picture should harmoniously and naturally fit into the space. Lighting is also taken into account: the perception of the picture depends on it. In case of insufficient lighting, the bas-relief will need to be additionally highlighted.

When choosing a sketch, if you are a beginner, you should not choose too complex and voluminous figures, plot paintings with many characters. For the first bas-reliefs, it is better to opt for simple shapes in the form of flowers, fruits or leaves. Although, despite the lack of experience, we do not recommend choosing too primitive sketches: they will be lost on the surface and will look uninteresting.

The most clear drawing of the sketch will help you in your future work.

  • The fourth step is to film the sketch.

The contour of the image must be transferred to the paper. Put a transparent film on top and circle it with a helium pen or pencil. The main thing is that the contour is not erased ahead of time.

  • The fifth step is to prepare the base.

The surface must be carefully prepared before applying the bas-relief. For this, the wall is treated with putty.

The solution must be mixed well. Gypsum plaster hardens quickly, so we do not recommend preparing a lot of mixture at once.

You can make the work easier if you use a screwdriver or a mixer attachment for a drill to prepare the solution. In order not to splatter the walls, we advise you to add a little water to the dry mixture before mixing and stir with a spatula. Then stir the mixture with a power tool, let stand for five minutes and stir again.

  • The sixth step is to paint on the wall.

After complete drying, put a film stencil on the prepared surface and trace the outline of the drawing with a hard pencil. The embossed image should remain on the surface.

The drawing can be applied directly to the wall. If you are not a very experienced artist, then you can transfer the image to the wall using the old and proven method: cell by cell.

  • The seventh step is the formation of the pattern.

This is the longest and most important stage, especially for a person who has no experience in modeling from plasticine or clay. But nothing is impossible. Following our advice, anyone, even without experience, can create a real masterpiece.

Before you start making the relief, it is necessary to designate the volumetric places of the bas-relief and fix the screws in the thickest places.

Gradually begin to add volume to the objects drawn in the picture. This work is carried out in several stages: the putty is applied to individual areas, layer by layer.

When applying the first coat, pay special attention to the embossed areas. There is no need to try to make the relief even, the ribbing will help to firmly bind the second layer of plaster to the first.

Then, using a palette knife, you need to cut through the image so that the details begin to emerge.

We prepare the material for modeling in advance. Beginners are advised to work with gypsum plaster or plaster. In addition to the fact that these materials are plastic, they still set quickly enough and keep their shape well.

  • The eighth step is painting the bas-relief.

Before you start painting, you need to perform a few more steps:

  1. completely dry the sculpted bas-relief;
  2. clean concave and curved elements, sharp, protruding edges and corners with small sandpaper;
  3. clean and prime the wall panel.

Working through these stages requires caution and accuracy. Try not to overdo it and not remove the excess, so that the volume is not lost and you do not have to return to sculpting again.

Once the primer has dried, paint can be started.

If you are using paint of the same color, we recommend taking white water-based paint in different shades. Lighter paint is applied to all protruding elements that carry the main stylistic load. For coloring, use a regular sponge, not a brush. This will avoid unwanted streaks.

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The wall around the wall panel will not look too flat if you apply a layer of plaster to it and make it textured. To do this, you can use crumpled paper or a plastic bag folded into a rose.

Bas-relief using a stencil

If you do not have great artistic talent or are not sure of it, it is advised to decorate your home with a bas-relief using a stencil.

Learn all the subtleties and nuances of work, practice on a small piece of drywall and feel free to start the decor.

Templates for bas-reliefs can be made yourself from transparent plastic or purchased at a hardware store. If you don't find the drawing you want, feel free to start making your own stencil:

  1. search on the Internet or draw a pattern yourself;
  2. transfer it to plastic using copy paper;
  3. cut out the pattern on the stencil without leaving any burrs or cuts.

Stages of work:

  • Preparatory work.

Mark the wall so that the pattern is evenly spaced on the wall. Prepare some stencils as they are used only once.

Glue masking tape or glue to the back of the stencil. Attach to the wall and hold until you are sure the stencil is firmly adhered to the wall.

  • Priming the wall.

Run the primer over the areas where the putty will be applied. After priming, the wall should dry well.

  • Putty application.

A fine-grained putty is best suited for this work. It can be bought ready-made or as a dry mix. In the second option, the mixture is diluted with water to the desired state.

Apply the putty to the stencil, completely filling all the holes. Each next layer is applied after the previous one has dried.

  • Removing the template.

When all the layers are dry, you can start removing the template. To do this, smoothly pull the stencil towards you and separate it from the wall.

Clean uneven edges with sandpaper or fix defects with a palette knife.

  • Decoration of the bas-relief.

You can start finishing the bas-relief after removing the stencil. Depending on the idea, you can use one color for painting, or several different colors.

For painting, it is better to use a roller with a foam pad and a special paint tray.

The pattern will be even more beautiful if you first go through the stencil with darker tones and then with lighter ones, leaving a dark outline. On such bas-reliefs, pearlescent or gold paint looks good.

Plaster bas-reliefs from ready-made forms

Doubt about your artistic ability? Then you can make a plaster wall panel. Even a novice artist can handle this material. It is enough to purchase a ready-made form in the store, mix gypsum and PVA glue, pour the mixture into the mold and wait until it dries completely.

After these steps, you must carefully remove the workpiece from the mold and fix the composition on the wall. Too small and small parts that are difficult to cast are molded by hand.

When the bas-relief is ready, it is necessary to seal all the cracks with white sealant. Then cover the entire composition with a primer and paint. Wax and gilding can be applied.

The hardest part of this process is finding the right shape. The main thing is that the mold can withstand the heating and expansion of the gypsum during solidification. Forms with thin plastic are unsuitable for these purposes. But silicone molds are what you need. And it is a pleasure to take out the product from such forms.

Using artificial flowers

To create bas-reliefs, you can use any artificial flowers: fabric, paper or plastic.

The process of creating such a composition begins with the preparation of a solution from a mixture of plaster and PVA glue. The consistency of the solution should be similar to sour cream. Artificial flower several times, dip in solution. Pause after each immersion so that the solution hardens slightly.

Do this with the right amount of flowers or other artificial plants. Wait for complete hardening and attach with thick alabaster to the wall panel.

Thus, you can make several fragments and from them already compose a composition for the entire wall.

Conclusion

Despite the huge number of advantages, the bas-relief is not the most popular option for decorating apartments today. The problem most often lies in the high cost of arranging volumetric wall panels.

But if you make a bas-relief with your own hands, then this problem will not exist and you can please yourself and your loved ones with a beautiful element of decor.

Since ancient times, people have been trying to decorate the walls of their apartments. One of the types of such decor is - volumetric works of art "drowning" in a flat surface, parts of which protrude no more than half of their size. Many will agree that such a decoration looks much more interesting than ordinary painted or wallpaper surfaces. And the do-it-yourself bas-relief on the wall will certainly become an object of admiration not only for the owner of the apartment, but also for the guests.

What can be decorated with a bas-relief

Many people, when thinking about a bas-relief, immediately pop up in their minds of photographs of works by famous masters decorating the facades of buildings or the pedestals of statues. However, even in the most ordinary apartment, you can find many places and surfaces on which a bas-relief will look good.

  • A small bas-relief will be an excellent decoration for the surface of various objects like photo frames, mirrors, decorative panels and boxes. Also, such a finish can be placed on cabinet doors, chest of drawers, desk.
  • Larger bas-reliefs can decorate doorways and the doors themselves, fireplaces, the ends of large furniture.
  • The wall is a suitable place even for a medium to large size bas-relief. Chamomiles, galloping horses, a snow-covered tree or a pouring waterfall - incredibly beautiful compositions can look harmoniously on the wall in any room, be it a dining room or a bedroom.

In addition to the decorative role, the bas-relief can also perform a practical function, for example, it can successfully mask the unevenness of the wall, utilities, create a smooth transition from one functional zone to another, or simply distort the space advantageously.

What you need to create a do-it-yourself bas-relief

Creating a bas-relief is a rather laborious and sometimes time-consuming process. Therefore, the masters of this business ask for a lot of money for their work. If the service of a professional is too expensive, and you really want to decorate the wall, you can try to create a plaster bas-relief yourself. This will require minimal sculpting skills, accuracy and perseverance. The list of required materials varies depending on which image and in which area you are going to reproduce. It usually includes the following attachments:

  1. Various types of brushes and spatulas, pencil, cutter.
  2. Masking tape, thick transparent film - used to protect the surrounding surfaces or transfer a sketch.
  3. Rubber gloves - so as not to get your hands dirty.
  4. Putty, gypsum, plaster, alabaster - your choice.
  5. Auxiliary materials - plasticine, polystyrene, cardboard, pieces of decorative cords. All this can come in handy in the process of creating a bas-relief.

If this is your first time starting work on creating a bas-relief, it is better not to take on a complex project of a large size. It will be even easier to create the decoration on a separate sheet of drywall, and then fix it to the surface of the wall.

Of course, before trying to create a bas-relief with your own hands, it will be useful for novice craftsmen to watch master classes on video. On the Internet, you can find detailed descriptions of the stages of work on creating wall compositions for every taste with a photo.

How to make a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands

The step-by-step instruction, which will allow you to understand how to make a bas-relief on the wall with your own hands, includes several mandatory points.

  • The work on creating a bas-relief on the surface of the wall should begin with the preparation of a sketch. Print or draw the desired life-size image and see how it looks in the interior. If everything suits you, you can proceed with further actions.
  • Clean the surface on which the selected decor element will be located. Best of all, adhesion to plaster occurs if you first level, plaster and prime the wall surface at least twice.
  • Place a transparent thick film on the previously prepared drawing and trace the contours with a marker or pencil.
  • Place the film stencil on the treated wall and secure with masking tape. Trace the contours with a hard pencil so that the outlines of the future bas-relief remain on the filled surface of the wall.
  • The most difficult and time-consuming stage is the application of plaster or gypsum to the surface and the creation of a volumetric image. Small details can be worked out with brushes and even your fingers. Please be patient!
  • When the work on creating the bas-relief is finished, you need to let the plaster dry. Then sandpaper your masterpiece to give it a finished shape. In conclusion, the surface of the product is coated with a primer or painted with water-based paint.

As additional materials, you can use foam, cardboard and even twine. Small elements can be cut out of polystyrene and cardboard, covered with plaster and simply glued to the composition on the wall, as well as a pre-plastered piece of twine rolled into a fancy curl.

If large elements fall off and do not stick to the wall surface, you can try to strengthen them with a regular plaster bandage. You can buy it at any pharmacy.

In the photo, you can often see bas-reliefs with an abundance of flowers on the walls. It is not necessary to sculpt each flower separately - they can be made from fabric or paper and simply covered with a mixture of plaster and PVA. After drying, the elements are attached to the main composition with thick alabaster.

If, in the midst of work, you realized that creating a bas-relief on the wall surface with your own hands is too difficult for you, you can try to seek help from an experienced specialist. You can find such a person in your city using social networks and message boards. It is better to assess your strengths in time and transfer the work to someone else's direction than just scrape off the wall and throw away a mountain of expensive plaster.

Once upon a time, interior decoration with stucco and bas-reliefs was available only to the highest nobility, the rich and large temples. Nowadays, making a bas-relief with your own hands is only a matter of labor and patience. Achievements of modern technologies make it possible to bypass the technical difficulties of creating stucco moldings at home for people who do not have an art education, but are not devoid of artistic taste and imagination. Create bas-reliefs like those in fig. below, it is quite within the power of a patient and attentive lover.

Contemporary bas-reliefs

New content

In addition to the traditional material for stucco molding - gypsum - DIY stucco molding can be created from modern building mixtures with polymer additives; they are often collectively referred to as acrylic renders. How to gain the volume of the bas-relief with building putty compounds, you can find out from the video:

Video: sculpting a bas-relief from putty

Amateurs also use a basic composition of architectural gypsum, acrylic plaster and PVA glue in a ratio of 1: 1: 0.5 by volume. Gypsum and plaster mixture are mixed dry and sealed with water, i.e. add water to the mixture, and not vice versa. Bring to a consistency from dough to yogurt or fat-free kefir and add PVA, stirring thoroughly. The density of the mixture is selected in accordance with the type of work with it, in which case which mixture is needed, see below.

Types of bas-reliefs

The bas-relief on the wall is performed using the technique of low relief (top left in the figure) or high, with protruding figures (top right). High bas-relief is also called high relief. Technically, a high relief differs from a low bas-relief in that the figures are sculpted like a round sculpture (see below). A low bas-relief looks good in any lighting, except for a very dim one, and a high relief is more advantageous in diffused light.

Types of bas-reliefs

In living quarters, which are most often lit quite brightly and evenly, it makes sense to use a mixed technique of bas-relief (bottom left), without making the figures very convex. How to sculpt the Klimt Tree bas-relief, see eg. master class video below:

Video: master class bas-relief "Klimt Tree"



The peculiarity of this work is that it uses almost all methods of creating bas-reliefs at home. Having become familiar with them visually, it will be easier for you to understand further and apply them in any of the techniques described below.

Note: at one time the Austrian artist Gustav Klimt created the composition "The Tree of Life". Her style is so unique that the expression "Klimt tree" became winged.

The reverse bas-relief, or counter-relief (lower center in the upper figure) is no longer stucco molding, but stone carving (the contours are cut inward), which is technically much more complicated. Therefore, we only note that the counter-relief needs a bright and sharp oblique light, because the image actually draws a shadow. There is also a special kind of bas-relief - shadow, at the bottom right, where the whole pattern is formed by shadows from small and smallest protrusions and depressions of a certain shape. With a change in the direction and angle of incidence of light, the pattern changes, up to a change in facial expression during the day. The shadow bas-relief is the highest art and, alas, short-lived: protrusions and depressions become clogged, and from cleaning they lose their shape. The drawing fades, blurred, disappears.

Bas-relief techniques

Stucco molding on the wall at home can be done in one of the following ways, in order of increasing technical complexity:

  • Plastering free, i.e. models not initially fixed to the reference surface, not removable;
  • Plastering non-removable models on the reference surface. These methods are especially good for beginners because allow you to receive acc. high and low relief, without risking the need to redo all the work in case of failure;
  • Reverse casting from plaster on a removable model. The method is somewhat more laborious, but also suitable for beginners, since you can pore over the model as much as you like until it is brought to the ideal. In addition, in one mold made according to the model (mold, mold) at home, you can cast up to 20-30 identical products;
  • Artistic gypsum stucco molding in place, i.e. directly on the supporting surface. Requires solid skills, but makes it possible to create large relief panels on the entire wall, with outlining corners, approaching the ceiling, and complete freedom of creative expression.

In place or on a sheet?

It is possible to make a bas-relief in ways 2-4 both locally and in parts on a table or floor. An excellent basis for fragments of a prefabricated bas-relief is a plasterboard sheet, gypsum board. It is prepared as a base surface (see below), parts of the overall picture or finished compositions are displayed on separate sheets or their pieces of the desired shape (see fig.), And attached to the aligned wall.

Relief panels

The heads of the fasteners and the joints of the fragments are putty with the base composition, then plaster and rubbed under the base texture. Another good thing about prefabricated bas-reliefs is that a piece spoiled by inexperience can be remade without touching the rest. And the bad thing is that the whole composition turns out to be heavy; it is impossible to fasten the prefabricated bas-relief to weak walls (plasterboard, partitions made of PHB, etc.). however, it is generally not recommended to load weak walls with bas-reliefs - the supporting base should be stronger than the material of the composition.

Tool

Making a bas-relief will require some special tools. Not very expensive, but one cannot count on the success of work without it. First of all, half a rubber ball for kneading the next portion of the working mixture. Everything falls out of it at once, if you turn it inside out, and the dried residues fly off in the same way. The more durable and beautiful the bas-relief will be, the faster it is formed, i.e. the further the working solution is from the beginning of setting. The kneading ball reduces waste of time for shaking, scraping, etc. to zero. It is also more convenient to collect the solution in small portions from the ball, because there are no corners inside. For the same reason, the kneading is more homogeneous (homogeneous), and this is one of the most important factors in the final artistry of the bas-relief.

Tools for making plaster bas-reliefs

Next, you will need spatulas for sculpting - palette knives. Set of 6 (item 1 in the figure) is enough for a start. For the formation of bunches of grapes, scales, etc. we also need convex-concave spatulas. Sets with such are expensive, up to 30 thousand rubles. (!) for a set of 48 items, so lovers instead often use spoons of different sizes (coffee, tea, dessert, table), with rounded and pointed tips. However, it is simply impossible to bring out the low relief with spoons, the bend of the handle interferes. Therefore, for each spatula, take 2 spoons of aluminum and other plastic metal. One is used as is, it will be a convex spatula. And the other handle near the scoop itself is twisted 180 degrees and bent back, a concave spatula is obtained.

Note: good convex-concave palette knives come out of disposable plastic spoons and forks. To get a concave spatula, their handles are heated with a lighter at the very scoop, twisted and bent when heated.

You will also need another palette knife - an artistic knife, pos. 2. Painters use them to clean off the old paint from the palette, and sculptors trim the edges, cut off the flash, and create a small texture. A palette knife is perfectly replaced by a wide boot knife.

The next necessary tool is a pastry syringe with nozzles (pos. 3 and 4) and, possibly, a medical one for 20 ml without a needle. It is highly desirable to take a confectionery syringe with a trigger drive (pos. 4). Mixtures for bas-reliefs are far from being as fluid as cream for cakes, and you need to form twigs, roses, leaves with a syringe (well, how they decorate cakes, everyone has seen), you need to hold it with 2 hands; hold the instrument at the tip with the left.

Finally, you will need 2-3 flat painting brushes of different sizes and the same number of round, cheapest, from bovine ear bristles. There is no sense in buying expensive squirrels and kolinsky for a bas-relief "for the sake of steepness", they are too soft. You will also need a very hard and rough children's nylon brush for painting. Use brushes to create texture (see below) and plaster small areas of the bas-relief.

Instrument handling and care

Palette knives and brushes are dipped in water before dialing the next portion of the mixture. Residues and drips on the working body are a guarantee of spoiled work. After work, the syringe is disassembled and dipped in water in parts; palette knives with brushes are also put there. When the tool turns off, the remnants of working materials from it are thoroughly washed off with clean water. By the way, after working on the bas-relief, a properly maintained confectionery syringe is also suitable for use for its intended purpose. The entire tool must be kept absolutely clean.

Bas-relief technology

The creation of a bas-relief on the walls in an apartment (or on sheets of plasterboard, if the bas-relief is prefabricated) is carried out in stages as follows:

  • The base surface is cleaned of the old finish, leveled with an accuracy of at least 2 mm / m, primed and covered with a base compound or any decorative plaster (see also below). GKL for a prefabricated bas-relief does not require alignment;
  • A background texture is induced along the base coating: with a foam or fleecy roller, "splashing" with foam rubber or felt, etc. At the same stage, the base is toned, see below. If the base coat is decorative plaster, no texture and toning is required;
  • The relief is formed in one way or another (from the above and described below). During the formation of the relief, toning is possible similar to that for the base;
  • If necessary, the relief is painted over on top after complete drying. It is convenient to do surface staining with special paints for gypsum stucco molding - they are immediately shaded into very thin halftones with a damp sponge. Sharper color transitions will give acrylic paints;
  • The completely dried relief is covered with styrene-butadiene latex (sold in hardware stores). Paints on dried plaster stucco molding fade, as on frescoes, and latex treatment restores their color;
  • After 1-2 weeks, so that the excess latex is completely absorbed and evaporated, the finished relief is varnished with acrylic varnish as needed.

How to tint stucco?

It is clear from the video above that you need to form a stucco bas-relief in layers. For toning the base for the relief and, if necessary, its details, layers are applied thin, 1-2 mm each. Usually, layers of kneading the density of low-fat sour cream are applied with a brush and smoothed with a palette knife. Mix for each layer is tinted with a color (pigment) for gypsum; the deeper, the darker, or vice versa. For example, for the bark of a tree, a brown pigment of an ever decreasing concentration is taken, and for green leaves, it is added as it moves outward. The next layer is applied to the previously set, but still wet. The texture with shades can be applied right there with a brush, or then wiped with a sandpaper-zero or, rough on large areas, with a metal brush. For more information on toning plaster stucco, see the next video.

Video: how to cover the bas-relief on the wall

"Free" plastering

This method is used to create tall floral bas-reliefs or low patterned overlays from disposable paper napkins. From the latter, using a plate or bowl turned upside down and greased with lanolin as a model, you can get a plaster vase, but its practical meaning is more than doubtful. The stock solution described above is not used. It is strong, holds its shape well, but its color is not pure white. Also, toning is not applied due to excessive consumption of material; finished elements are painted.

For plastering, a liquid, almost watery solution of architectural gypsum is prepared. A model (artificial flower, napkin) is dipped into it and placed on a board covered with plastic wrap. Flowers are placed in the position in which they will be in the finished composition, see fig. When the mortar has set, it is dipped again, then again, until the model is plastered with a layer with a thickness of 1-1.5 mm.

Drying artificial flowers during the plastering process

Flowers for drying are placed in the same position each time. Thus, flat areas are formed on them, allowing them to be firmly glued to the base. Glued with acrylic plaster of sour cream density or acrylic glue. You can also glue PVA.

Plastering in place

This is perhaps the most affordable way to make, say, a stucco shade for a chandelier (see fig.) Without experience. Plastering the model in place differs from the previous method in that the model is first glued in place, and plastering with a brush. The plaster solution is made thicker, like sour cream. If the stucco molding is on the ceiling, the layers are applied very thin, translucent, so that there are no drips. Accordingly, layers will be required up to 10-15 or more.

Stucco shade for a chandelier

The main catch here is the material of the model. Usually they are made from polystyrene, foam, polyurethane and other soft plastics. But over time, they all decompose. This happens very slowly, but all the same, after 3-7 years, dirty gray or yellow-brown indelible spots begin to appear on the stucco. Therefore, models for plastering in place are best sculpted from salt dough, the same one from which Christmas tree decorations are made with their own hands. Salt dough is glued to plaster, stone and other mineral building materials with acrylic glue or any assembly glue. Stucco molding according to non-removable models of salt dough retains its appearance for 30-50 years or more.

Reverse casting ...

This is the most common way to create stucco molding with your own hands, which allows you to get results of a completely professional look and quality without excessive work and skill. The classic plaster backcasting procedure is shown step by step on the left in Fig., Pos. a-e. Model 1 made of plaster, plasticine, plastic, etc., or an exemplary product, which it is desirable to repeat / replicate, is placed on a flat panel 2. Now, in order to facilitate the removal of the mold with the model, the panel is covered with a film.

Reverse Casting Plaster

Then the model is coated with a thin layer of lanolin. It is undesirable to use medical petroleum jelly, the model may stick to the mold. Gypsum and any other porous (wooden, salt dough, stone, etc.) model is coated several times, allowing lanolin to be absorbed for an hour or two, until a solid oily sheen appears on the surface.

Next, the model is coated with a layer of gypsum or alabaster mortar of 3 thicknesses of dough, approx. 1 cm, immediately forming protrusions-anchors 4 and stiffening ribs 5. The seized and almost hardened, but still slightly pliable coating is tied with a frame made of soft (annealed) steel wire 6. The branches of the frame are fastened with bundles 7 of thin copper wire.

The next step is to coat 9 with a thick cement-sand mortar from M150 with a layer up to 5 cm thick and a little more, this is already a casting mold. Here it is necessary not to forget to form the supporting surface of the mold 8. After the time of the set with a cement-sand mortar 3/4 of the strength (7-20 days, depending on the external conditions), the finished mold 10 is separated from the shield using a wedge 11. Well, if the shield was covered film, the mold is simply removed.

Finally, the inner surface of the mold is cleaned with a copper brush 12 and, if necessary, the defects are corrected with gypsum or alabaster mortar. The flare is removed from the side of the mold 13 and, from its inner edge, the chamfer is approx. 0.7 mm. In a non-chamfered mold, the casting will almost certainly get stuck. Before casting, the inner surface of the mold is coated with lanolin, like a model. Casting mass is filled in the mold layer by layer. As soon as its penultimate layer begins to set, eyelets with a mustache (top right in the figure) are inserted into it, for which the casting is then pulled out. For small ebbs, the eyelets can be made from paper clips. The last layer is poured when the lugs are already firmly seated in the penultimate, i.e. when it is completely hard, but still slightly damp. It is unacceptable to try the firmness of the seating of the lugs by swaying!

Currently, for editions up to 15-20 pcs. the old fashioned way is not poured from gypsum, the mold for such cases is cast from silicone (bottom right). The model, prepared as in the previous one. case, poured silicone layer by layer, in layers 1-2 mm thick, until a mold thickness of approx. 1.5-2 cm. In addition to technological simplicity, a silicone mold allows you to obtain castings with shallow recesses, because it is elastic and stretchable.

Mini Reverse Casting Plaster

Also, small rounded gypsum parts are poured into silicone molds: berries (see Fig.), Acorns, mushrooms, etc., up to small fish. In this case, a tray-flask is molded from plasticine, the model is also molded from plasticine. The entire silicone is poured into the flask; the flask and the model are not coated with anything. When the silicone hardens, the flask is simply torn off, and the model is picked out. This is the so-called. mini - reverse casting of plaster.

... and not vice versa

In gypsum mini-casting, a removable model is already used; in a sense, the model disappears and for the next batch of castings it needs to be done again. A silicone mold can also be made for plaster casting according to the lost-wax model, then it will be possible to get up to 100-200 or more castings from it, but already convex, without depressions. In this case, the flask is made in the form of a box without a bottom made of plywood 2-3 cm higher than the height of the model and such that the gap between the flask and the model is at least 1-1.5 cm.

The model is formed from wax on a backboard covered with foil. Then they put the flask and cover the gap along the bottom with plasticine. Next, the model is doused with silicone in layers, as before. case, and when its last layer hardens, silicone is also added layer by layer along the contour until the flask is filled to the top. As soon as the last layer is poured, the plywood bottom is filled. The model is melted with a household hair dryer: the lousiest silicone holds 140 degrees, which a hair dryer does not give.

Modeling the bas-relief in place allows, as mentioned above, to achieve the maximum artistic effect, but requires certain skills. You can buy them without signing up for an evening department of an art university or courses. It is enough to practice with plasticine; the technique is the same, only in working with plaster the time is limited - work with the next section must be completed before it begins to set. Technically, gypsum molding is distinguished between low (flat) and high (round).

The technique of flat molding from plaster is shown in the selection of photos below. The rules are as follows. First, the material of the thickness of the dough or fat sour cream is applied in layers. Second, each layer is first smoothed out, forming at the same time a relief, and then its contour is trimmed. The third, next layer, as in general in layer-by-layer filling with gypsum, is applied to the previously set, but still wet. Fourth, as the layers grow, they switch to a smaller instrument. And fifth, in each layer, work is carried out from the thinnest and smallest details to the thick and coarse ones. In this case, from the teeth of the leaf to its petiole.

Low plaster molding

The branches on the bas-reliefs are best removed with a confectionery syringe or, very thin, with a medical one. The thickness of the branches is adjusted by pressing the piston harder and weaker (item 1 in the figure). In this case, the texture is applied with a brush, and the fractures are formed with the tip of a palette knife. The syringe is filled with a base solution, and for painting and for snow-white plaster cast, as a non-removable model in place.

Branches on plaster bas-reliefs

Strongly twisting branches (pos. 2) can be obtained by soaking a cord or twine in a gypsum solution of the density of sour cream, laying it out on a board covered with a film along the contour, and after drying, stick it on the wall. If the bas-relief is prefabricated, the cord is laid out immediately, it will dry out tightly. To get branches of decreasing thickness, part of the strands is removed or, conversely, 3-5 twine branches are twisted at the butt, then 2-3, then one is left. If the cord shines through the plaster, the branch is plasterboard in place, applying the solution with a brush

Note: branches for a bas-relief from a gypsum cord can be soaked several times in tinted batches. The desired color is obtained by grouting with zero sandpaper.

Sharp ribs

In the pictures with the bas-reliefs, you probably saw sharp edges. They are formed by the folded thumb and forefinger, and the big ones are formed by the folded fingers of both palms folded back. The height and thickness of the ribs are changed by smoothly moving / moving apart the fingers (palms) in motion along the formation of the rib. The fingers, as in general for hand sculpting, should be slightly damp.

The basis of the round molding is a wire frame anatomically similar to an object, i.e. with the proportions of the object and the location of the branches where the main bones of the backbone are. The skeleton in a circular shape works the same way as the skeleton of a living creature. Information about skeletons can be gleaned from any course in plastic anatomy of humans, animals and birds. Plastic anatomy is not a medical discipline, but an art education. The material there is presented from the point of view of how to sculpt, and not how to treat, and is designed for listeners who are not disposed to the subtleties and severities of science.

The figure is approx. from 30-40 cm is molded on the frame as shown in pos. 1 fig. For smaller figures, the frame is made simplified (pos. 2), but observing the principle of anatomical similarity. In humans, by the way, it is not so difficult: we divide the height by 8; 1/8 of it will be the dimensional module of a harmonious human body, pos. 3.

Plaster molding on the frame

The frames of small animal figurines are made in a similar way (pos. 4a and 4b). It is desirable to reduce the weight of larger figures so that there is less fuss with fixing the bas-relief (see below). In this case:

  • The base frame (pos. 5a) is made three-dimensional approximately along the contours of the body minus 1-3 cm for sculpting, with the help of additional. branches from the same wire (pos. 5b). The auxiliary branches are attached to the main ones and fastened together by winding with a thin copper wire, and even better - by soldering.
  • In a liquid, like defatted kefir, gypsum solution, rolls of medical bandage are soaked, as for plastering of fractures of the extremities (see, for example, the film "The Diamond Arm"), and the frame is wrapped with a plaster bandage, pos. 5c. It is the rolls that need to be soaked: as soon as the bandage begins to peel off badly from the skein, it means that the plaster of Paris began to harden and the rest of the roll went to waste.
  • After the plaster frame is completely dry, it is stuck layer by layer with a base solution (tinting can be used), adjusted to shape and texture with a tool and sandpaper, and plaster of paris to pure white (if necessary) with a solution of architectural gypsum.

Note: for the frames of unfurled wings of birds, butterflies, elves, bats, ghouls, dragons, etc. it is convenient to use a thin and fine metal mesh. Another option is the branches of the main branches, pasted over with paper or scraps of nylon tights.

Support for figures

Figures for homemade high reliefs are molded separately; in place is too difficult. Therefore, each figure should have a flat area, and on the base surface, respectively. flat so that the shapes can be glued into place.

How to attach bas-reliefs

The high relief with round figures turns out to be rather heavy. If for 1 sq. dm. its support area is more than 1.5-2 kg, the bas-relief needs to be reinforced. Corrugated nails 80-120 mm, driven into plastic dowels, are best for this. The attachment points are marked in advance under the thickest places, distributing them as evenly as possible over the area. The nail in the dowel should sit in the wall at least 50-60 mm deep. The protrusion above the wall is 1.5-2 cm, for which the nail driven into the dowel is bitten. The mass of the bas-relief above the protruding fastening pin should be at least 1-1.5 cm.

Super bas relief

And in conclusion - how to try yourself in the elite technique of shadow bas-relief. This requires only a piece of GCR with a layer of fresh stock solution of approx. 0.5 cm and nail 100-150 mm. From the edges of the tip of the nail, you need to carefully remove the flare to get the correct 4-sided pyramid.

We prepare the sample as follows: we prick with a nail with a slight slope along the still plastic coating of the gypsum board even rows of holes in a checkerboard pattern and close to each other. The inclination of the nail and the orientation of the edges of its point relative to the directions of the rows must be maintained as accurately as possible so that the holes are equally asymmetric.

The next step is to place the sample in direct sunlight and, turning this way and that, and somehow, we observe the play of chiaroscuro. At the same time, we try to imagine how it would be necessary to chop the holes in order to get a changing pattern. And, who knows, maybe you will find aptitude for this rare but extraordinarily effective art - the shadow bas-relief.

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