Floors in a private house - the best options for flooring in the house (100 photo ideas). Do-it-yourself wooden floor in a private house How to lay a wooden floor in a private house

Natural building materials are considered to be quite relevant in use. In this regard, wooden floors in a private house, being an environmentally friendly product, are used in many country buildings.

They are quite popular, since the installation is quite simple and reliable. You can do the work without the services of specialists with your own hands. True, this will take a lot of effort and time. In addition, you will have to carefully study the nuances of the technology of their flooring.

Option selection

Sooner or later, such a question arises before every owner planning to reconstruct or build his house from scratch.

First, it is necessary to decide on how the floor will be installed in a private house.

At the moment, the following options for flooring wooden floors are most popular:

1. Located on logs (cuttings) on the ground.
2. Installed on brick (concrete) pedestals.
3. Cement screed flooring.

The advantage that a wooden floor in a private house has over a concrete analogue is the environmental friendliness of the material and good thermal insulation performance. The only drawback is the need for well-executed waterproofing. If this is not done, even the most reliable larch or beech floor will eventually need to be replaced.

Of all the known methods of flooring, the concrete base is considered to be the most durable. But the material is very cold, so a wooden covering must be laid on top of it.

Construction and wood

Choose wood for flawless flooring

As an example, a system of laying wooden floors in a private house located on the ground floor is considered. For this situation, the coating is laid on the ground and consists of the following elements:

• lags (overshoots);
• rough floors;
• waterproofing;
• thermal insulation;
• clean floors;
• finishing floor covering.

The structure is located on support pillars or beams made of cement mortar or bricks. Under the floor there is a subfloor in which communications can be placed, as well as use this free space for storing canned goods, vegetables or other unnecessary things.

If the underground has been thought out in advance, and the foundation was well insulated during its installation, the arrangement of a full-fledged basement floor is allowed.

This method of floor installation is considered the most common, since thanks to the subfloor, the space is well ventilated, the wood is always dry, and an optimal microclimate is created on the ground floor. Installation of a wooden floor directly on the ground is allowed only if the groundwater level has been taken into account.

Failure to comply with these requirements can lead to the formation of mold and mildew in the subfield. In this case, waterproofing, you need to pay special attention.

Choice of materials

Choose resinous wood for lag

Wooden floors in a private house are constantly exposed to heavy loads, therefore, for their installation, it is recommended to use only solid wood species, and it is also necessary to choose materials that are suitable for the following characteristics:

1. The lifespan of the floors will depend on what percentage of moisture the fiber has. Otherwise, you will have to thoroughly dry the boards and treat them with special compounds that prevent the formation of mold.
2. It is recommended to install the floor in the house only from boards and beams that do not have cracks and chips. Failure to comply with this condition will lead to the need to repair the structure in a short period.
3. Treatment with fire-fighting compounds and antiseptics is required in any case.
4. Planks of oak, ash and beech have the greatest strength. The disadvantage of materials made from these types of wood is that they are too fragile and expensive. Therefore, the most common lumber is made of coniferous species: pine, spruce, larch, cedar.

Underground

Don't forget the vents

When laying floors with your own hands, be sure to think about the fact that the subfloor under them has ventilation holes. If this is not done, the service life of the flooring will be significantly reduced.

If windy and snowy winters occur in the region in which the house is located, a ventilation pipe with a visor is installed as a barrier against blowing out the underground space.

To improve the quality of ventilation, you can make an additional window fan. A small lattice with a cell more than 10 mm in size will serve as a barrier to entry of mice and rats.

Posts or beams

The device of floors in a private house begins with the installation of base posts. In most cases, these are brick lined or poured concrete structures. As an option, wood of durable species is used: oak, beech, ash, but their service life rarely exceeds 10 years. For more information about the device of floors in a house made of timber, see this video:

First you need to choose the location of the columns. To do this, you need to use a tape measure and lacing. The rope runs between the walls in the center of the room. With an interval of 80 - 100 cm from each other, notes are made in the ground. These are the locations of the pillars. Then you can be guided by the following rule: the distance from the posts depends on the thickness of the lag or cut. The larger the beam, the greater the distance you can make.

To determine the exact distance between the posts, it is recommended to use the table.

After the installation sites are determined, you can proceed with the installation of the pillars. The best option would be to pour separate foundations under them, going 50 - 100 cm deep.

Their height should exceed the ground level by 5-10 cm, after which a layer of waterproofing is laid and the main element is mounted. The average width depends on the height of the structure and ranges from 40 to 50 cm.

To avoid leveling the floor and facilitate your work, you need to take care of the correct horizontal line even at the stage of preparing the base for the posts and monitor its observance throughout the entire installation process.

Installation of logs (cuttings)

Before making wooden floors in a private house, you need to lay a wooden beam on pillars aligned at the same height, on which the floorboards will be laid in the future. It is necessary to place a waterproofing on the stone surface; for this, the use of roofing material is allowed.

A bar is laid on top, which must be fixed on the base of the pillars. To do this, you can use metal plates or corners, which are attached with anchors, screws or nails. After the cuts are laid and secured, they need to be treated with an antiseptic.

If the horizontal has not been observed, the plane is leveled by placing wooden wedges under the timber.

Installation of floorboards

Depending on the chosen method of how the flooring in a private house will be, the procedure for further work may differ significantly. The simplest is the installation of a single floor.

It will take much more time and consumables to make a double wooden floor with insulation placed inside.

Single

After the cuts are fixed, grooved boards with a thickness of 4 - 5 cm are laid on them. Fixation to the timber is carried out using self-tapping screws or nails. After completing the installation, it is allowed to lay the floor covering or paint the erected floor.

A predominantly single floor is installed for a summer cottage, which is used only in warm weather.

Double insulated

If the floor is to be installed for a house where you will be living permanently, it is recommended to use a double floor with an intermediate position of thermal insulation. Such technology will require more time and money, but the result will not keep you waiting long. The floor will be much warmer, and living in the house will be more comfortable. For more information on installing a wooden floor, see this video:

The installation procedure is as follows:

When installing rough wooden floors in a private house, you need to leave a gap of 2 - 3 cm from the edge board to the wall. It is needed for the temperature shift of the wood and will help to avoid possible swelling of the surface.

Wood is considered a natural and environmentally friendly material that requires compulsory care. Despite the superficial complexity of flooring for a private house, even a person who does not have sufficient multifaceted experience in this area can do this work.

It's no secret that the convenience of living in a house largely depends on high-quality floors. The installation of the basement floor is carried out using various materials: wood, concrete, special mixtures using the "self-leveling floor" technology. The floors in a private house must be flat, durable, keep warm and have aesthetic qualities.

Types of floors

The question of what to make the floor of the house from often arises when building your own home. Therefore, there is a need for a detailed study of the types of floors, taking into account their advantages and disadvantages.

Wood covering

Wooden floors look impressive, they meet environmental requirements, combine practicality and a long service life, and allow repairs as needed.

Installation of a wooden floor implies the presence of the following materials: beams with a thickness of at least 15 cm, edged boards with a thickness of at least 2.5 cm, waterproofing and vapor barrier elements, insulation. Beams and boards must be taken dry, their moisture content should not exceed 12%.

A polyethylene film or roofing felt is suitable as waterproofing. There are a lot of vapor barrier membranes on the market. Insulation can be mineral wool slabs, sheets of extruded polystyrene foam, expanded clay. You will also need nails and screws, metal corners, a hammer and a screwdriver.

Installation of a wooden covering goes through several stages. The first thing to do is to carefully level the ground, which then creates a sand cushion. It is necessary to lay waterproofing on it. If roofing material is used, then the overlap between the strips is at least 15 cm.

Further along the perimeter of the house, a strapping bar is installed, to which logs are attached with the help of metal corners. All bars are pre-treated with protective compounds. The distance between the lags should be maintained equal to the width of the insulation. If mineral wool slabs are used, then they are installed by surprise. This must be taken into account when installing the lag.

Then a vapor barrier membrane is overlapped over the lag and insulation, the joints of which are glued with special tape. The final stage involves the installation of boards. It is also recommended to treat them with protective compounds. The boards themselves should be nailed as tightly as possible to each other.

Note! Kitchen in a private house - 100 photos of design and layout ideas

When the wood floor is ready, it can be varnished or linoleum laid on it.

Concrete floors

Most often, concrete floors in a private house are arranged in utility rooms, but this option is also possible in residential areas. The floor is poured according to the following scheme.

If there is a need, a small pit 10 cm deep is pre-dug in the area of ​​the future pouring. Then a sand pillow is made with a thickness of at least 5 cm, which is carefully rammed. A reinforcing mesh is laid out, beacons are set up, along which it will be possible to monitor the evenness of the surface.

The concrete will gain its nominal strength in 28 days, after which it will be possible to proceed with the finishing. Tile or linoleum on a thick base are options for such a finish.

Linoleum is used in living rooms, tiles are laid in the hallway, bathroom and toilet, in the kitchen. Linoleum is glued to concrete with special mastics, or it just lies freely, fixed on the walls with a plinth. Special glue is used for laying the tiles.

Self-leveling coating

For the device of such a floor in a private house, special mixtures are used, which are self-leveled after their application. This is one of the most popular flooring methods in country houses. The cost of a self-leveling floor directly depends on the manufacturer and brand of the mixture.

In addition, there are options for floors with a pattern or color, which also affects the price. The base of self-leveling floors is a concrete screed, the surface of which is treated with special primers to improve adhesion. Using a drill with a special nozzle, the bulk mixture is diluted with water. The solution is applied to the primed substrate in small portions and rolled with a needle roller to remove air bubbles.

For a better set of strength, the finished floor is covered with plastic wrap, if this is specified in the instructions for the mixture. After the mortar has completely hardened, it can be coated with polyurethane varnish to give it a shine.

The coating will be ready for comprehensive use in a week, and you can move on it already 12 hours after pouring. The peculiarity of this floor is that it is often used as the main floor. But you can also lay carpet on top, lay parquet or laminate.

If there is a financial opportunity and the floors are made in a residential area, then it is best to use three-dimensional or decorative self-leveling floors. To do this, you need to think about what kind of drawing will be located on the floor, and then contact a company specializing in these issues. She will make a photo of the floor in the house, making a printout on a banner of the required size. Subsequently, using a special technology, this banner will be installed on the floor, making the room stylistically very attractive.

Underfloor heating technology

The most convenient and practical option is to install a warm floor in a private house. There are floors with water and electrical systems. Electric floors are popular in small spaces in apartments or country houses. The main prerequisite for the installation of electric floors is the availability of a power supply line capable of operating under heavy load.

An electric underfloor heating system has only the disadvantage that it consumes more electricity.

In the case of floor heating in large rooms, which, moreover, do not have central heating, it makes sense to use water floors, since they can significantly save energy.

The water floor as a heat source has water heated by the boiler circulating through pipes installed in the floor. The role of heating elements is assigned to metal-plastic pipes (there are options for using plastic pipes). They are laid on the subfloor and connected to the supply and return manifolds through a distribution mechanism. The water circulating in the pipes has a temperature of + 35-45 ° С. Higher temperatures would make the floor uncomfortable, and subsequently lead to its destruction.

The water heating system has several advantages:

• heating costs are reduced due to the low temperature of the coolant;
• as an independent unit makes it possible to effectively use the living space (in the absence of radiators);
• economical compared to electric underfloor heating, despite high installation costs

What kind of floors to make in a private house in each case is always decided on an individual basis. At the same time, it is necessary to measure the purpose of the floors, their price and the quality of the materials used. Knowing the subtleties of all the options, the advantages and disadvantages of one or another type of flooring, you can eventually achieve a unique result, while getting the best floors for yourself.

Photos of floors in a private house

When building a house is started, the question of floors arises first of all, since both the strength of the coating and the preservation of heat in the rooms, and hence the health of the residents, will depend on them. The device of floors in a private house can be carried out in several ways, but you need to consider each of them in order to evaluate the pros and cons of each option.

• Wood has always been considered the most popular and comfortable floor for a home, since wood, unlike concrete, is itself a warm material.
• Concrete floors are more durable than wood, but require good insulation, so they are often combined with wooden floors.
• Screed or floating floors were not so popular with home owners in the past, but recently, many are increasingly turning to this option, since it is simple to install, and it can be done in literally one day.

Whichever gender is chosen, it has specific features of your device, depending on the design of the house, on the area on which it should be laid, the difficulties and nuances of installation, and even on the financial capabilities of homeowners.

In order for the floor in a private house to be warm, and it was pleasant to walk on it, each of its types requires insulation, therefore it is necessarily included in the plan of general arrangement works.

Wooden floors can be made in different ways, but they are always fixed on logs, which are made from beams laid on a concrete base, support pillars, or embedded in the walls of the house. The latter option is possible only in a room with a small area, for example, a narrow corridor or a small hallway.

In addition, wooden floors are subdivided into single-layer and double-layer, i.e. with subfloor.

Support pillar floors

The floors on the support pillars are made in cases where it is not possible to connect the logs to the walls of the house or this is not enough for the strength of the overall coating. The lag system, arranged only on the support pillars, is called "floating".

"Floating" floor on support pillars

The floors according to such a system are arranged as follows:

1. The first thing to do is to dig holes in the underground space of the house to install brick pillars. Such mini-pits are marked at a distance of 70-100 centimeters from each other. The depth of the holes should be at least fifty centimeters. The size of the section will depend on the height of the supports being erected, the higher the pillar should be, the greater its width and thickness.
2. At the bottom of the dug holes, crushed stone, gravel or sand, at least twenty centimeters thick, is poured, then filled with water and carefully compacted. The better the bottom is rammed, the more reliable the support for the lag system will be, therefore this process must be carried out conscientiously.
3. Red brick pillars are laid on the rammed pillow, or formwork is arranged, reinforcement is installed, and a cement-gravel mixture is poured. If the pillars are made of concrete, then their size should be at least 40 × 40 in cross section, and preferably 50 × 50 cm. The erected pillars are adjusted according to the level, and, if necessary, their height is adjusted.
4. On top of the pillars, to a depth of 10-15 centimeters, threaded rods are embedded or anchors are installed, on which the floor beams will subsequently be fixed.
5. It should be noted that if a building or a room has a small area, then support pillars can be arranged only around the perimeter of the future room, but in this case, massive beams must be laid on them.
6. After the pillars are ready, waterproofing material is laid on their top. Better if it is three to four layers of roofing material.
7. Holes are drilled in the beams through which the fastening pins will pass.
8. Beams from a bar or log are laid on the waterproofing, they are put on pins and set in level, leveling with the help of wooden lining boards.When the base of the floor is exposed, it is better to fix the lining to the bars with the help of nails, and the bars themselves must also be fixed by screwing them to the posts with nuts through a wide washer. If the pins are too high, it is cut off with a sander.
9. It is best to cover the surface of the underground with expanded clay, with a layer of 15-20 centimeters - it will well contain moisture that can come from the ground, and will additionally insulate the floors.
10. In order for the floor arranged in this way to be warm, it is better to make it two-layer, especially since in this version all the conditions have been created for this. If it is supposed to immediately lay a floorboard on the beams, then the underground must be completely filled with expanded clay, leaving a distance of no more than ten centimeters between it and the wooden covering.

Rough floor

The sub-floor can be arranged in several ways. The choice of a specific method will depend on the insulation material.

• If slag or expanded clay is used as insulation, then the subfloor is made solid, from boards that are nailed to the lower cut of the beams. The gaps between the boards are coated with clay, diluted to a not very thick state. After the clay has dried, you can fill in the cells with insulation, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid.
• If the floors are insulated with mineral wool, then the boards are nailed to the underside of the beams at a distance of 50 centimeters from each other.

• A vapor barrier is attached to the beams and to the lower boards and thin plywood is laid. Insulation is laid on it, which is also closed on top with a vapor barrier, attached to the beams using a stapler and brackets.

• Then logs-bars measuring 10 × 3 centimeters are nailed onto the beams, on which floorboards or thick plywood will be laid.

Video: a clear example of installing a subfloor

Wooden floor on the ground

Arrange a wooden floor and on the ground. There is a scheme for this, focusing on which you can draw up a work plan.

• The soil is underground, it is necessary to compact it well, and arrange on it a pillow of sand, gravel or crushed stone of the medium fraction, 20 to 40 centimeters thick, and then compact it again.
• Rigid waterproofing, for example, roofing felt, is laid on the tamped pillow. If desired, under it, you can, for greater strength, lay a reinforcing mesh. The waterproofing must extend to the walls by at least 10 centimeters.
• On the waterproofing, bricks or concrete blocks are placed on the mortar, which will later become a support for the beams. The supports are placed so that the beams are at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other (standard width of the insulation).
• The first layer of insulation is laid around the bricks - it can be polystyrene of 50 ÷ 100 mm or mineral wool.
• Wooden beams are installed on bricks, or better - on concrete blocks, they are leveled, and fixed with a corner.
• Between the laid beams, for greater insulation, you can additionally lay mineral wool slabs.
• On top of the insulation, cash yeah fix the vapor barrier film.
• Then a floorboard is laid, which is fixed with carnations, carefully driven into the side of it.
• The board is laid at a distance one and a half centimeters from the wall to provide ventilation.

Wooden floor on a concrete screed

When installing the floor on concrete screed or slab, logs can be laid directly on concrete or, if it is necessary to raise the floors to a small height of 10-20 centimeters, on threaded studs.

When laying floors on concrete, you cannot save on logs - they must be massive enough, then the floors will be reliable and non-creaky.

It should be noted right away that with such a floor device, it is imperative to make it two-layer, i.e. with the above-described subfloor, otherwise it will be very cold.

• First, a preliminary marking of the location of the lags is made on the concrete pavement. They should be installed at a distance of 60 centimeters, taking into account the future insulation. Marking is done by beating off the line with color.
• Further, on the broken lines, marks are made at a distance of 30-40 centimeters.
• At these points, holes are drilled into which studs are installed with clamps located approximately at the same height from the floor - they will hold the beams.
• In the beams themselves, at a measured distance corresponding to the location of the studs mounted into the concrete surface, holes are drilled, after which the beam is put on the studs.
• Then, using a level, the clamps are twisted in one direction or the other, bringing all the beams to the ideal horizontal, controlling its level.
• On top of the studs, the nuts are tightened, driving them into the prepared recess, and the excess part of the studs is cut off with a grinder.
• The next steps are the construction of the subfloor, insulation and flooring of the clean floor.

Fastening the lag directly to the screed

Arrange logs on the concrete floor not difficult at all, and you can do it yourself with the right tools.

• Stripes are beaten off on the concrete pavement, also at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other, but from the wall they should be at a distance of the thickness of the insulation (150-200 mm).
• Further, with the help of anchoring, the logs are securely installed on the concrete floor. In this case, the bars can be of any height - this will depend on the desire of the owner of the house and on the ability to raise the floors to the desired height.
• Then, it would be nice to lay a thin insulation, for example, polyethylene foam, which can be fixed to the logs with staples.
• Along the wall, all over strips cut from mineral wool mats are installed around the perimeter of the room.
• Next, lay on the covered polyethylene insulation plates material or expanded clay of small or medium fraction is filled up.

• From above, it is imperative to close the insulation with a vapor barrier film.

• Next, a floorboard or thick plywood is laid, and a decorative coating can also be laid on top.

Concrete floor

The concrete floor is also arranged in different ways, but, in general, they are similar in technology, with minor deviations or additions.

Concrete pavement is mainly made in houses with concrete or brick walls, and it is started after the walls are removed and the roof is covered.

• If necessary, the top layer of soil is selected in order to arrange a sand cushion in its place, which should be 10-15 centimeters. It needs to be tamped well by pouring water.
• The next layer is crushed stone of the middle fraction, which also needs to be tamped. The thickness of its backfill must be at least 10 centimeters.
• Next, arrange a rough screed. It can be made insulated by adding expanded clay or foam crumbs to the solution. In addition, in this case, the solution can be mixed not on sand, but on gravel. The screed is leveled and left to harden.
• On the finished solidified rough screed, you need to spread the waterproofing, which should be 15-20 centimeters on the walls. For it, you can take roofing material or an ordinary thick plastic film - the main thing is that the material is laid tightly, with gluing overlaps.

• Insulation is poured onto the waterproofing - expanded clay, or extruded high-density polystyrene foam is laid, the thickness of which is chosen at the request of the owner of the house and depending on the climatic conditions of the region where the house is built.
• A metal reinforcing mesh is installed on top of the insulation, and then a finishing screed is poured into which insulation material can also be added. In order for the screed to be even, and there are no floor height differences in the room, it should be done on exposed construction level of beacons.

• If desired, additional insulation can be made on such a coating. On the finished screed, you can lay wooden floors, lay laminate linoleum or ceramic tiles. Nothing prevents you from organizing a "warm floor" system.

Dry screed floors

There is nothing difficult in the construction of floors using a dry screed - it is done much faster than a concrete or wooden floor. That is why in recent years it has been used more and more often.

The main thing in its installation is a high-quality homogeneous bulk material. For such a floor, perlite, quartz or silica sand, slags or fine-grained expanded clay are used. These materials are not only easy to use, but also perfectly perform the task of sound insulation and thermal insulation. With a good distribution of bulk material over the area of ​​the room, it almost does not shrink, therefore, with a conscientious performance of the work, the bulk floors will last a long time.

Leveling loose mix

• To keep the floors in shape, and the dry screed does not crumble, special bulkheads from boards are installed.
• On top of the dry screed, slabs of moisture-resistant HWP, plywood or other sheet materials are laid. The most important thing is to set the first plate perfectly evenly - this is done with the help of a level. The next slabs to be laid will be aligned with the first. The laid material does not need to be pressed into the dry mix, but should be moved very carefully over the surface. The evenness of the stacking of sheets during the entire operation is controlled using a level.
in areas that are subject to the greatest stress, for example, in walkways.
• On gypsum fiber sheets have folds, with the help of which they are connected to each other when laying them on a dry screed.
• The sheets are stacked with an offset of half the sheet, by analogy with brickwork - this will increase the stability of the coating.
• Having laid the first layer of slabs on a dry screed, they usually move on to the flooring of another one - it will make the floor more durable and stable. If the floor is used gypsum fiber sheets, then on the first layer a fold is cut off from them, so that they are tightly adjacent to each other and the bulk material cannot get between the first and second layers.
• The second layer of sheets is always laid perpendicular to the bottom sheets.
• The laid top layer of sheets is fixed with bottom c using glue and additionally fastened with self-tapping screws. They are necessarily twisted under load - for this it is enough just to stand on the top sheet, and the weight of the master will serve as the necessary load.
• It is not recommended to join the sheets exactly along the line of doorways - it is necessary that the sheet be distributed in this place to both rooms.
sealed with a waterproofing material such as a sealant.
• If such floors are arranged in a room where the humidity is high, the entire surface of the floor is treated with a coating waterproofing before laying the decorative coating.

Thus, it is obvious that the floor in a private house on a dry screed is mounted quite easily, if you approach the work seriously, do it carefully and take your time. Rush absolutely inappropriate- in terms of the timing of work, such technology under any circumstances is many times superior to any other.

To ensure a comfortable temperature and favorable living conditions in the house, you need a reliable, even and warm covering - the floor. Considering the methods of laying the floor base, the owners of the buildings decide which floor to install in their own home. It is important to choose the right material, on the strength and properties of which the level of thermal insulation and the reliability of the base depend. Let's figure out how to build floors with our own hands in a private house. Consider the technology according to which the installation of a wooden base, concrete flooring, as well as the installation of plywood on a dry layer of sand are carried out.

Choosing a floor base and a good floor construction method

Arranging the floor in a country cottage, in a country house or in your own home is a serious and responsible task that many are trying to solve on their own. However, without studying the features of the technology, it is problematic to give a clear answer on how to make a floor in a private house. It is important to think over not only design issues, but also to decide on the method of installation of the floor base and the materials used.

A serious and responsible task of arranging the floor in a country house

The most common in the private sector are the following self-laid flooring options:

• wood. The main advantages of a wood floor are environmental friendliness and increased thermal insulation characteristics. At the same time, wooden boards are highly hygroscopic and require effective waterproofing protection. The wooden floor is laid on support beams located above the ground surface, on wooden beams resting on brick pedestals, as well as on slats laid on a concrete or cement screed. Building a wooden floor is easy. The plank base is durable, maintainable and attracts attention with its original texture. The correct choice of material for the plank base determines the performance characteristics. It is important to use dried wood, the moisture concentration of which does not exceed 12-14%. It is not allowed to use boards with defects in the form of cracks, falling knots and chips. The material used is coniferous trees, as well as hardwood. Impregnation of boards with antiseptic compounds ensures the durability of the structure;

• concrete. It surpasses all types of floor bases in strength characteristics and service life. When performing a concrete screed of increased height, additional reinforcement of the concrete array with a reinforcing lattice is performed. It prevents cracking of the monolith. At the same time, the concrete base has a serious drawback - increased thermal conductivity. To ensure a comfortable temperature of the concrete floor and reduce heat loss, it is imperative to lay insulation in the form of granular expanded clay, foam or extruded polystyrene foam. A waterproofing material is placed on top of the insulating layer, and then a concrete mixture is poured. It is important to use fresh concrete mortar made on the basis of Portland cement grade M400 and higher. To improve the appearance and increase thermal insulation, a concrete base is combined with a wooden one;
• floor base in the form of a dry screed. This type of floor has gained popularity relatively recently and is a progressive solution in the construction industry. A dry screed is also called a screed or floating floor structure. This type of base attracts with the simplicity of formation and the accelerated pace of work. A dry screed is performed on a planned basis, which is waterproofed and then logs are laid. Fine-graded expanded clay, slag or sifted sand are poured into the space between the logs. Then you need to pull off the bulk composition and distribute it evenly over the entire area. At the final stage of construction, dry screeds are laid or sheet plywood is being installed. is durable and prevents heat loss.

When choosing installation methods and material for the future floor, you should study the design features of the floor base, as well as analyze its advantages and weaknesses.

We make floors in a private house using wood

Wood floors are often preferred due to their attractive appearance and environmental friendliness of the material. To ensure the reliability of a plank floor, you should not only decide on the wood, but also choose a design option. Wood floors are constructed using a variety of methods. In this case, logs made of wooden beams are an integral element of the design.

Lags are laid on the following bases:

• beams fixed to the walls of the building;
• columnar supports made of bricks or blocks;
• concrete screed, reinforced with reinforcement.

Depending on the wishes of the customer, builders construct a single-layer version of a wooden floor or form a two-layer base of wood, laid on a sub-floor of unedged board or concrete. Let us dwell in detail on the technological aspects of the construction of various options for wooden floors.

We lay the floors with our own hands in a private house on the ground on the beams

Aspiring developers are wondering how to make home floors from scratch using wood. They mean a situation where the walls of the building have already been erected, the roof has been installed, and the floor base is normal soil.

So, the construction of a plank floor on a beam base located above the ground is performed according to the following algorithm:

1. The surface layer of soil with a thickness of 8-10 cm is removed.
2. The stones are removed and the horizontal surface is ensured.
3. A sand-crushed stone mixture is poured onto the soil surface with a layer of 10-15 cm.
4. The bedding is leveled, spilled with water and compacted.
5. A layer of waterproofing is laid from sheet roofing material or polyethylene.
6. Logs are laid with an interval of 0.6-0.8 m between wooden beams.
7. The logs are attached to the foundation walls with steel plates.

It is important to ensure that the lags are horizontal and correctly level them during installation. For this, wooden props are used. A floor of planed boards is mounted on the prepared base.

The following types of installation of a plank base are possible:

• with additional floor insulation. The technology of arranging a wooden floor provides for the possibility of laying heat-insulating material in the space between the logs. Mineral wool, expanded clay granules or expanded polystyrene sheets are used as insulation. After warming, finishing floor boards are attached to the logs;
• without insulation of a wooden covering. With this method of installing the floor, no insulation is used. Boards are attached to the upper plane of the support bars, which perform the functions of a rough floor. On the rough base, a second layer of finishing boards is laid or the finishing coating is installed in the form of OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood.

When performing work, gaps of 20-25 mm between the foundation and the logs should be provided to compensate for thermal expansion.

How to make a warm floor from wood on support pillars

Having made the decision to make the floor in a private house on their own, many prefer a wooden structure formed on support posts. The specified installation method is used when it is necessary to raise the floor surface, eliminate distortions of the floor base, as well as with an increased distance between the walls. Indeed, in the absence of additional supports, there is a high probability of violation of the integrity of the lag under the influence of loads.

When constructing a wooden floor on additional concrete supports, follow the procedure below:

1. Remove the fertile soil layer and plan the surface.
2. Determine the coordinates of the location of the support pillars.
3. Remove the soil according to the markings and prepare pits for the support pipes.
4. Fill the bottom of the pits with a mixture of sand and gravel.
5. Level the bedding and compact it thoroughly.
6. Assemble the formwork of the desired height around the perimeter of the pits.
7. Lay roofing material inside the formwork for waterproofing.
8. Assemble the reinforcement grid and place in the formwork.
9. Pour in concrete mortar and compact it.

The concrete hardening process takes 4 weeks. After the concrete has gained operational strength, disassemble the formwork and lay on the concrete surface the supports of the required height made of bricks or blocks. Lay roofing material on the surface of the formed pedestals, designed to protect wooden beams from soil moisture.

When performing work, the specified dimensions should be observed:

• the interval between the supports, equal to 1-1.2 m;
• the distance from the foundation to the extreme pedestals, which is 0.4 m;
• the location of the base of the pits from the zero mark at the level of 0.4-0.5 m;
• the thickness of the crushed stone-sand cushion - 0.1-0.15 m;
• section of columnar supports, which is 0.4 * 0.4 m or 0.5 * 0.5 m.

It is important to control the location of the upper plane of the supports at the same level. This will prevent distortions and form an even floor. Remember that the technology allows the implementation of the lag compound with the connection of the beams on the central support with an overlap of 0.15-0.2 m.

Tips for laying floorboards or plywood on a concrete base

Often, a concrete or cement screed is used as a floor base. Massive interior items can be installed on a wooden floor formed from a concrete or cement base. A plank, plywood or tiled floor, built on logs attached to concrete, reliably insulates the floor of the room and has an increased load capacity.

Observe the following procedure for screed-based wooden flooring:

1. Level the concrete base and seal the cracks.
2. Fill with self-leveling mixture, if necessary.
3. After the mixture hardens, lay a waterproofing material.
4. Mark the surface of the base for laying the logs.
5. Make holes in the concrete, fasten the studs to fix the planks.
6. Drill holes in the bars corresponding to the coordinates of the studs.
7. Place the planks on the studs and check that they are level.
8. Remove the parts of the studs that protrude beyond the top plane of the beams.
9. Fill the space between the joists with sheet or granular heat insulator.
10. Mount a topcoat made of boards or plywood to the joists.

Do not forget to provide gaps to compensate for temperature deformations between the end plane of the log and the walls of the room.

How to make floors in a private house correctly - we form a concrete surface

It is advisable to equip for buildings, the walls of which are erected from concrete blocks or bricks.

Consider how to make a floor in a private house by pouring a rough screed:

1. Remove the sod layer from the soil, plan the surface and compact the soil.
2. Fill on the surface with a layer of crushed stone 10-15 cm thick and compact it.
3. Lay a plastic wrap for waterproofing on the tamped rubble.
4. Lay a sheet heat insulator or pour expanded clay granules.
5. Assemble the reinforcement grille and lay on the insulation.
6. Fill the screed and carefully smooth the surface.

Remember that flooring in a private house is carried out according to pre-installed beacons, which make it easier to level the screed using the rule.

Dry floor screed for plywood sheets

The technology of forming floors in rooms using the dry screed method is quite simple. The essence of the method is to use friable material evenly distributed over the area of ​​the room as a floor base.

Various types of bulk materials are used:

• small granules of expanded clay;
• sand concrete mixture on a quartz or silica base.

A distinctive feature of the materials is the absence of shrinkage after leveling. Such a floor serves for a long time and retains heat well in the room.

The procedure for the construction of a floor using the dry screed method:

1. Lay a layer of waterproofing on the prepared surface.
2. Fasten the slats that act as guides.
3. Fill the space between the beacons with dry mixture and smooth it.
4. Compact the bulk material of the floor base.
5. Attach plywood boards to the guides with self-tapping screws.
6. Seal the joints between the plywood sheets.
7. Place the topcoat on the prepared substrate.

When performing work, check the horizontal laying of the slabs with a level and move from the front door into the interior of the room.

Summing up

Regardless of the option chosen for arranging the floor, work should be carried out in strict accordance with the requirements of the technological process and use high-quality materials. It is important to properly waterproof the floor and insulate it. When deciding on the floor structure, give preference to environmentally friendly, warm and durable materials. A properly assembled floor will last a long time and will not cause trouble during operation.

It is quite possible to make a wooden flooring with your own hands if you first study the instructions for carrying out this work. Boardwalk has always been more popular than floors made of other materials, since it differs from them in its natural warmth, environmental friendliness and the ability to create a specific, especially healthy microclimate in residential premises.

Most often, conifers are chosen for flooring in the house. Mostly larch is used, which shows special resistance to temperature extremes and high humidity. Due to the natural antiseptic qualities of this tree, destructive fungal formations do not appear on it, which means that the processes of decay and destruction are excluded.

Gender requirements

Wooden flooring must meet certain requirements, without which the floors will not last long and will not be comfortable for residents.

• Effective sound insulation and thermal insulation of premises.
• Reliability and durability of the wooden coating.
• Wear resistance, and therefore - and durability of the floor.
• Moisture resistance and hygiene - cleaning the floor should not be too difficult.
• The aesthetics of wood flooring - it should become a decoration of the room.
• Ease of installation work.

To achieve all of the above qualities of a wooden floor, you need to choose the right material for its construction.

Material selection criteria

In order for the floors to serve for a long time without drying the boards and their deformation, when choosing wood, you need to pay attention to the following material parameters:

• Grade. For a finishing coating, it is better to choose the highest or first grade of the board, and for rough flooring, 2 ÷ 3 grade is usually bought. If the finished floor is covered with paint, then second-rate material is quite suitable for it.

Its quality will directly depend on the grade of wood. Even when purchasing a material of the highest grade, you need to pay attention to the presence of possible defects, such as chips, cracks and knots - they must either be completely absent, or be in a minimum amount.

• It is very important to pay attention to the dryness of the wood. It must have a certain moisture content, otherwise, over the years, cracks will appear between the boards, and the floorboards themselves will begin to deform. The moisture content for finishing boards cannot exceed 12%, and for rough ones - no more than 17%.
• The length of the bars and planks should ideally match the length and width of the room where the floor will be laid.
• The standard thickness of floorboards is 120 x 25 mm and 100 x 25 mm. This parameter is selected depending on the step of laying the logs on which the boards will be fixed. According to the existing technology, these distances should be selected in accordance with the data given in the table:

When buying any building material, after the necessary calculations have been made, it is necessary to add 15% to this amount in reserve - this rule has been checked by experienced builders, therefore it is recommended to follow it.

Wood preparation

Before installing the logs and floorboards, they must be prepared. Usually, flooring material is sold already in a planed form, but if burrs are detected during inspection, then they must be removed using an electric planer.

Their installation is started only after the material has completely dried.

Choice of floor design

Knowing all the requirements that apply to the coating material, you need to decide on the design of the floor, since for each specific case its own option is suitable, depending on the conditions in which the installation will take place.

There are several basic types of wood floor structures:

• Floors on logs laid on floor beams. In this case, plywood or boards can be used for the finished floor.
• "Floating" construction - boards laid on a concrete base, but not attached to it .
• Covering fixed on logs laid on the ground.

These methods of constructing a wooden floor have become the most popular, as they give freedom of creativity to the master, who can bring his own adjustments to the design. But, one way or another, for each room it is necessary to choose the only option that suits it best.

Floor system on floor beams

• The lags, as a base for the floor, can be fixed to floor beams, which, in turn, are laid on a columnar or strip foundation. This is permissible if the room where the floor is arranged has a width of no more than 2.5 ÷ 3 m.

• To create an air gap, floor beams are often raised above the ground to a certain height, laying them on the upper waterproofed foundation surface. They can be rigidly fixed to it, or simply securely stacked on top. The second option is chosen in the event that the foundation has not yet had time to shrink, and when it occurs, it will not pull the floor system along with it, which will probably begin to deform from such an impact.

• With a large room width (more than 3 meters), additional columns can be installed between the walls, which will create rigidity in the floor system. Waterproofing must be installed on all supporting structures under the floor base beams in order for the wooden parts to serve as long as possible.

What should be the thickness of the lag and floor beams? This mainly depends on the free span width (distance between adjacent support points). Usually proceed from the following indicators (see table):

• After the floor beams are installed, the logs need to be fixed on them. The distance between them, as already mentioned, is calculated according to the thickness of the selected floorboards.

• When arranging such a "floating" floor structure, the joists, and then the boards should be located at a distance of at least 12 ÷ 15 mm from the walls, that is, be independent from them. A material is laid in the opening between the walls and the floor system, which will not allow cold air to penetrate into the room, will allow the wood to "breathe", and when temperature and humidity changes, it will expand freely.
• When laying logs consisting of two separate sections, their overlap by 400 ÷ 500 mm should be on the support posts or on the beam. The logs should be aligned to the building level, if necessary, small pieces of wood are placed under the logs to achieve an ideal horizontal.
• After the logs are exposed and fixed, it is recommended to arrange a rough floor, for which low quality boards are quite suitable. To install them, cranial bars measuring 30 × 50 mm are screwed onto the entire length of the lag from below.

• The subfloor boards are not always attached to the cranial bars, they are usually simply stacked tightly to each other. A vapor barrier film is laid on top of the subfloor, fixing it with brackets to the logs and boards.

• Between the lags, it is tightly placed on the vapor barrier - it can be mineral wool in mats or rolls, as well as dry backfill from expanded clay or slag.

• On top of the insulation, another layer of vapor barrier film is laid. Separate sheets of it are glued together with adhesive tape, and then the film is attached to the lags with staples.

• The top layer of vapor barrier is necessary so that dust and particles of insulation material cannot enter the living quarters. On top of this entire flooring system, floorboards or thick plywood will then be laid.

Prices for various types of timber

Lags fixed to concrete pavement

Often, to create a layer for the floor in apartments, a wooden floor is also arranged on the logs on the concrete base. Here, the whole difficulty lies in leveling the lags on the surface, especially if it is planned to raise the wooden covering a few centimeters above the concrete slab.

If the apartment is located above the first floor, then most often the logs are laid out, leveled, and then fixed to the concrete base with the help of anchors.

In both the first and second versions, the logs are drilled through. To raise the lag above the base, different metal and plastic elements are used. In this case, the photo shows the studs. They allow you to raise and lower the logs from one side or the other, leveling them. The excess section of the hairpin, after bringing the log to the desired height, is cut off using a grinder.

In each of the options, insulation can be laid on the concrete between the logs, which will add thermal insulation to the coating, and also help drown out noise, both from the lower apartment and from the rooms where the logs are installed under the wooden floor. Mineral wool, foam, or can be used as an insulating material.

Flooring on a concrete surface

Sometimes a wooden floor is laid on a concrete floor without the use of logs. Floorboards or plywood are used as coverings. It is advisable to lay a thin insulation material under such a floor - most often foamed polyethylene is used for this, and it is better to choose one that has a foil covering.

Separate sheets of backing material are fastened together with adhesive tape to create a solid coating - it will make the floor warmer and drown out noise. If plywood is used for flooring, it must be remembered that a decorative covering must be laid on top of it. Floors made of thick enough boards will look respectable if they are varnished, waxed or high-quality paint.

Floor board installation

Having chosen the boards of the required thickness, it is important to determine the correct direction of their laying on the floor. As many years of experience show, the best option to lay boards is considered to be in the direction of natural light, that is, from the window. Therefore, you need to start planning the laying of the board with marking and securing the lag.

Floorboards have different types of connections:

1. Connection using an insert-insert in the grooves of two boards.

2. Tongue-groove connection with grooved boards.

3. Quarter connection.

The latter type of connection is the easiest to install, therefore, floorboards with such an attachment are most often used. In addition, the “quarter” joint creates a uniform covering with almost invisible gaps between the boards, so it optimally retains heat in the room.

Boards can be fixed to two ways of fastening:

• Nails or self-tapping screws can be driven into the groove located on the side of the board at an angle of about 45 degrees, with the head sinking into the wood. Some craftsmen prefer to do the opposite, driving the screws at an angle into the edge of the thorn.

• In the second version, nails or screws are driven in or screwed into the front plane of the board.

• When starting to install floorboards, it is imperative to retreat from the wall 12 ÷ 15 mm. Later, a strip of insulation is laid in this gap, and closed with an installed baseboard. It is necessary for the tree to expand with changes in humidity and air temperature.

• The board is attached to the joists with nails 80 ÷ 120 mm or screws 70 ÷ 100 mm. The hats are driven under zapay”, Later they are sealed with a putty matched to the color of the wood.
• If insufficiently seasoned wood is used, then the laid floor requires a drying period that lasts 6-8 months. During this time, the coating will shrink and shrink, the gaps between the boards will increase, and therefore it will be necessary to carry out the process of re-laying it. In this regard, during the initial laying of the flooring, all the floorboards are not completely nailed to the logs, but only the fifth - seventh board is attached. After the boards have dried, they must be shifted, pressed as tightly as possible to each other and nailed to the logs.

• If boards with a thorn-groove connection are selected, a mallet is used for a tighter connection, with the help of which the thorns are driven into the grooves through the bar. Often for this, masters use special clamps, especially in those cases when, due to the light curvature of the boards, the installation is carried out with greasing the grooves and spikes with carpentry glue.
• For a tight connection of the last board, installed against the wall, temporary wooden wedges are used, they are driven in between the wall and the board.
• The gap between the boards should not be wider than 1 mm. If the board is not installed in the groove to the end, then, most likely, a burr or some kind of roughness remains on the canvas, and this flaw must be removed, the spike must be adjusted to the groove.

Find out and also consider the causes of the squeak and methods of elimination, from our new article.

Video: floorboard flooring with the use of clamps

Floor coverings prices

Floor coverings

Floor surface treatment after final flooring

After the floor has been sorted out and fixed, you may have to loop its surface. This process is carried out in the event that when the board dries up a little, and the surface becomes uneven.

The starter varnish helps to identify areas that are not smooth enough on the surface of the boards, and therefore, after it dries, it is easier to find roughness and re-sand them.

After sanding, plinths are installed, which will well hide the gaps between the wall and the floorboards. If, as a result of this operation, gaps remain between the floor and the plinth, then they are sealed with a putty in the color of the wood.

Now that the floor is prepared in this way, you can proceed to finishing the surface with wax, oil, varnish or paint.

The plank flooring is covered with a finishing compound not only to make it aesthetically pleasing and respectable, but also to protect it, and therefore - the maximum long-term operation.

Oil treatment

If the boards have a beautiful pronounced textured pattern, then a special oil is often used to cover it. It makes the floor warmer, not as slippery as when covering, and also gives it anti-static properties. The oil penetrates into the structure of the tree and reliably protects it from the penetration of moisture from the outside, practically repelling it.

Wood covered with oil is less susceptible to various types of damage, and existing flaws become virtually invisible. The oil does not clog the pores of the wood, preserving its naturalness, allowing the material to "breathe", which creates a favorable microclimate in the living space.

Oiled floors must be protected from dust until they are completely absorbed. During operation, such a floor requires special care with special means. It is very important to remember that it is not recommended to put furniture with metal legs on such a surface, as there is a risk of unwanted reactions, as a result of which dark spots may remain on the wood.

Floor coating with oil is recommended in rooms with high humidity - a bathroom, a terrace and a kitchen. Such a coating is also well suited for a hallway or corridor, since boards soaked in such a substance are more resistant to abrasion.

There are flooring compositions that do not consist of pure oil, but with the addition of liquid wax to it, which gives the floors a matte, soft shine. Applied to the surface of wood and clean oils, they are well absorbed into the surface, economical in application and do not require a long waiting time to dry.

Floor oil can be colorless, or it can have different shades that darken the wood or give it a special - pleasant and warm color.

The oil is applied in two or three steps. It can be rubbed in or applied with a brush, and its excess is immediately erased to avoid the formation of a film on top, which will create an uneven coating.

The oil composition can be applied hot and cold in several layers. The faster the wood absorbs the oil, the more layers will need to be applied. The heated composition penetrates much faster and deeper into the pores of the wood, and such a coating lasts much longer than with a cold application.

Waxing the floor surface

Wax is most often combined with an oil coating. So, sometimes waxing occurs with a composition that consists of natural beeswax and linseed oil. Such a coating protects the floor surfaces well from scratches and dirt, as well as from moisture absorption, but will not keep the wood from cracking and intense mechanical stress. The wax coating gives the surface a pleasant matte sheen and golden hue.

The wax is applied to the cleaned floor using a wide roller in several layers. The first one should be very thin in order to be well absorbed into the surface. Next, the floor is sanded, and then it is covered with another layer of the compound and sanded again.

Wax combined with oil is an environmentally friendly covering material and is very useful in children's rooms and adult bedrooms. Wood that has undergone such treatment has the properties of "breathing", so the floors will last a long time and create a favorable microclimate in the room.

Wood floor varnishing

• The varnish can be applied with a brush, roller or trowel at room temperature, moderate humidity and no drafts.
• On the cleaned surface, the first layer is applied nitro lacquer, which will serve as a kind of primer for the finishing layers of the composition. It is applied in a thin layer along the textured pattern of wood. If necessary, the primer can be applied in two layers.
• After the primer has dried, the surface is well sanded with sandpaper. After that, the floor is washed with soapy water, thoroughly wiped and dried.
• After that, they begin to apply the finishing layers. There can be two or three of them, and each of them is dried and sanded.

Applying varnish to floors is a rather complex undertaking that requires careful selection of the composition for a particular wood species. Therefore, if this particular method of processing a wooden floor is chosen, it is better to entrust the work to a specialist who will determine the amount of work and select the necessary materials.

The lacquer coating is quite fragile, which is easily damaged by mechanical stress, so it is undesirable to walk on it with thin heels or move furniture. In addition, varnishes are most often produced on chemical bases, which clogging the pores of the wood, do not allow it to "breathe".

Painting a wooden floor

Recently, paint is rarely used to cover a wooden floor, but nevertheless it happens, especially in those cases when a special style of interior is chosen. In addition, the paint is used in cases when it is necessary to cover the not very attractive appearance of wood, since such a coating completely covers the floor surface. For such a finishing, you can choose paints based on different bases: oil, enamel, nitrocellulose, as well as acrylic, water-dispersion and latex.

Water-based paints are preferable for residential premises, as they do not contain solvents and additives harmful to the human body. They are produced in different color shades, so there is always an opportunity to choose the one that is more suitable for a particular interior.

Enamels and other paints based on chemical solvents are also used for living rooms, but after their application, the premises require long-term ventilation, since these vapors can pose a threat to human health.

Before painting the floor with water-based compounds, the boards are covered with a special primer. For the rest of the coating materials, the preparation of the base is required with the help of impregnating compounds, in which drying oil usually acts as the main component.

The paint can be applied in one, two layers or, as a last resort, at three o'clok. It is recommended to choose the "golden mean", as the paint applied with a too thin layer will quickly begin to wear off, and thick, on the contrary, peel off. Each coat of primer or paint must dry well before the next coat is applied.

It is described in great detail in the corresponding publication of our portal.

So, if you have basic concepts about working with wood, and you have stocked up the necessary materials and tools, it is quite possible to try to lay the floors from boards or plywood yourself. If you have any questions, you can always ask for clarification and advice to articles that will help solve any problem. And at the end of the article - another interesting video on the technology of laying a wooden floor.

Video: how a wooden floor is prepared and laid