How pvc panels are connected in the corners. Do-it-yourself installation of mdf panels on the wall is a practical and effective way to decorate a room. How to insert the last plastic panel

There are many materials that can be used for finishing ceilings, but the most practical and easy-to-use option is PVC panels. And they become even more attractive for the reason that it is quite simple to carry out their installation on your own, so there is no need to involve a team of builders. Our article will tell you how to fix PVC panels to the ceiling and how to choose them correctly.

PVC panels - what is it?

PVC panels are a finishing material made of polyvinyl chloride, a plastic that does not burn well and has chemical resistance. Now let's look at the design of PVC panels.

PVC panels for ceiling

They consist of two thin sheets of plastic interconnected by a plurality of stiffening ribs. Along the length of the PVC panels, there is a large mounting shelf on one side, and a small fixing shelf on the other. The first is used to fasten the PVC sheet to the ceiling frame, and the second is used to connect the installed sheets to each other.

So why have PVC panels become so popular? Below is a list of the benefits of this finishing material.

PVC Mirror Panels

Selection of PVC panels

So, you know what kind of material it is, now you need to select PVC panels and purchase them. First you need to decide on the size. At the moment, in hardware stores, you can see plastic panels either in the form of lining or in the form of rectangular plates with the dimensions shown in the table below.

Table. Standard sizes of PVC panels.

How do you know if you have good material in front of you? How not to unknowingly purchase low-quality PVC panels that will crack during installation or lose their color after a couple of years of service?

Possible shapes and textures of PVC panels

When going to a hardware store, you should pay attention to the following points. For small rooms, the most suitable will be PVC panels of the "lining" type. They should also be preferred if you want to have a ceiling made of plastic, stylized as wooden boards. A for larger rooms, it is better to take panels or sheets of polyvinyl chloride... As for the thickness, it is predominantly the same for all types of PVC sheets and is 10 millimeters.

1. Stiffening ribs of PVC panels should not show through from the front side. Also count their number - the more ribs there are, the stronger and more durable the panel structure is.
2. The surface of the material must be perfectly flat, without any defects, chips or damage.
3. The mounting and mounting shelves must be flexible enough so that they do not break when you try to bend them.
4. Try to press lightly on the PVC panel. If a crack or dent appears on the surface, then this is a low-quality specimen, which it is advisable to refuse to purchase.
5. Take a few panels and try to stack them together. Good material fits smoothly and without gaps.
6. Pay attention to the appearance of purchased PVC panels - copies from all packages must be monochromatic and have the same texture. In some situations, PVC sheets from different batches have slight color differences.

What to look for when buying PVC panels: 1. The number of stiffeners: the fewer there are, the more unstable the product.
2. The edges of the plastic tiles must be intact and straight.
3. The surface of the PVC panel should be uniformly colored, smooth and free from unevenness.
4. The two panels must be properly connected in the place of the joint groove.

In addition to the PVC sheets themselves, you will need to purchase an installation profile. It consists of two "shelves", one of which is attached to the frame, and the other is connected to the plastic panels. Both starting and finishing PVC sheets are attached to the installation profile... When choosing it, you should pay attention to the thickness of the plastic and whether the profile does not have any bends or defects.

PVC panel ceilings

Do not forget to also buy a ceiling plinth - it not only serves as a decorative element of the future ceiling, but also closes the gap between the wall and the ceiling made of PVC panels. Usually such skirting boards are called fillets, made of plastic and attached with glue.

As for the appearance of the purchased PVC panels, you must determine it yourself, based on the design project of finishing the room and your own taste. Your attention will be presented with many options for panels of various colors and textures. Here you can advise to use a color matching chart so that the appearance of the ceiling matches well with the color of the walls and furniture.

Color matching table in the interior

Required tools

Now you need to make a list of tools that will be needed to fix the PVC panels to the ceiling. You do not need something complicated or very expensive, all of the following can be found in any hardware store.

1. Perforator- required to install the frame.
2. Screwdriver... If you wish, you can attach plastic panels to a profile or timber using a puncher, but it is very heavy, and it is very inconvenient to use it for such tasks. Therefore, the presence of a screwdriver will greatly facilitate the work and increase the speed of installation of PVC panels. And if you attach them not to self-tapping screws, but with the help of staples, then instead of a screwdriver, take a construction stapler.
3. To control the accuracy of the marking and the location of the plastic panels, you will need elbow, level and painter's thread.
4. Pencil or marker for drawing lines and marking PVC panels in the order of their laying.
5. Roulette for measurements.
6. Electric jigsaw or circular saw - for cutting off the frame profile and plastic panels.
7. Stepladder... Of course, you can always get by with a table or stool, but this is unsafe and inconvenient.
8. Rubber mallet, which can be useful for fitting PVC panels to each other during installation.

Tools for the installation of PVC panels

In addition to tools, you need to purchase material for the frame. It can be either a metal profile (UD-27 for the main and CD-60 for the guide), or a wooden bar. Also, do not forget to purchase fasteners (screws, staples or glue), drills for a hammer drill, attachments for a screwdriver, dowels and hangers for a profile.

Fittings for the installation of PVC panels

Preparation

It is worth noting that even before visiting a hardware store, it is worth starting preparatory work. The first thing to do is create a plan. For this measure the length and width of the room and draw a diagram of the future frame.

An approximate scheme of a ceiling made of PVC panels

Then calculate how many sheets and what sizes you will need to make the suspended ceiling.

Important At the planning stage, it will not be superfluous to mark the lines along which you will cut the frame profile and PVC panels. At the same time, you can make notes on them with a pencil and a marker, indicating in what order they should be stacked.

Remember that good and careful planning is the key to quality work and reliable insurance against various troubles and the need to redo everything.

The second point of preparation is removal of old finishing materials... If the ceiling was previously covered with a thick layer of plaster or paint, then all this must be removed, otherwise heavy pieces of the old finish can damage the frame or the panels themselves.

The last stage of the preparatory work - marking the line of the future frame... To do this, measure the height of all corners of the room with a tape measure. Find the one in which it will be the smallest. From it downwards you should measure 50 millimeters and draw a strictly horizontal line (control it with a paint thread and a level). The same line at exactly the same height should be drawn on the opposite wall. The frame of the suspended ceiling will be installed on them in the future.

Ceiling markings

Frame installation

Along the lines drawn, holes drilled with a perforator are marked every 50-100 millimeters. After that, dowels are inserted into them. Along the holes drilled in the wall with self-tapping screws (for example, a 6x40 mm self-tapping screw), the main frame made from the UD-27 profile is attached with a lid to the wall. In this case, do not forget to use a level and make sure that the frame elements are located strictly horizontally.

Wooden lathing for installation of PVC panels

Then, using hangers and a CD-60 profile, guide rails are created, to which the PVC panels will be attached. The optimal distance between them is 500 millimeters. The metal profile CD-60 is installed with a cover to the floor, the ends of the slats should be inserted into the profile of the main frame.

Advice! It is very difficult to correctly mount the frame and install PVC panels alone, therefore this work should be done together with a partner. The help of a person who will serve and receive tools, cut and bring plastic panels will also not be superfluous.

Having finished with the installation of the frame, check it several times for horizontalness and the absence of a difference in height - the future ceiling made of PVC panels should be perfectly flat, and this largely depends on how well the crate is installed.

An alternative to a metal profile can be a frame made of wooden beams. Such a design will cost less, but at the same time it is susceptible to moisture. The technology for its installation is in many ways similar to the technology for a metal profile.

1. We draw two strictly horizontal lines on opposite walls.
2. We drill holes along them with an interval of 5-15 centimeters.
3. We insert dowels into the holes.
4. We fasten the beam of the main frame to the wall using self-tapping screws and the aforementioned holes.
5. We mount guides from a wooden bar with the help of hangers.
6. We attach the guides to the main frame using corners.
7. We check the entire structure using a level and tape measure.

It is worth noting that for a wooden frame, the more optimal fasteners for plastic panels will not be self-tapping screws, screwed in with a screwdriver, but staples, for which a construction stapler is needed. Also, metal fasteners can be replaced with "liquid nails" - building glue that can firmly hold a plastic panel and a frame together, even under relatively heavy loads.

Methods for fixing PVC panels

Important! If additional stress is present, such as a large chandelier or a second level of false ceilings, the frame should be reinforced. To do this, it is necessary to mount more guide rails, reducing the gap between them. This is necessary not only for a wooden frame, but also for a metal profile structure.

Fastening PVC panels to the ceiling

First, mount the installation profile by attaching its large "shelf" to the guide rails using self-tapping screws. It can be installed both around the entire perimeter of the room, and at the points of attachment of the starting and finishing PVC panels.

Fastening PVC panels to the ceiling

Now it is necessary to cut off the PVC panels according to the previously developed plan and applied markings. At the same time, many experts advise to make the length of the sheet slightly smaller than the width of the room, since PVC can expand even at low temperatures, which means that installation "back to back" can lead to future deformations of the suspended ceiling.

Advice! Also, you should not install PVC panels in a room with a low temperature, especially since under such conditions this material becomes brittle.

If you are planning to make recessed lighting for a false ceiling - it's time to cut out the cutouts for the lamps in the PVC sheets.

Installation of spotlights in the ceiling made of PVC panels

Once the material is fully prepared, you can start attaching the first (or starting) panel. To do this, you and your assistant need to insert the start panel into the installation profile from the side of the mounting shelf, and then fix it with self-tapping screws on the rails. At the same time, make sure that they do not enter too deeply into the PVC, otherwise there will be a risk that the screws will damage the sheet.

Then carefully "join" the next panel using the mounting shelf from the starting one, and fix it with the fasteners. Thus, the PVC panels are fixed to each other in turn. They should be connected together with great care to prevent damage. Also, you cannot leave gaps or crevices, the PVC panels must fit snugly against each other. If necessary, you can make a "fit" with the help of gentle blows with a rubber mallet.

Installation of panels on self-tapping screws

Before installing the last PVC panel, measure the remaining uncovered space of the ceiling with a tape measure- often the plastic panel does not fit there completely, therefore it must be cut off. At the same time, make sure that the cut is as even as possible, and there should be no gaps between the PVC finish panel and the installation profile.

The scheme of gluing the ceiling plinth

The final stage - glue landing of ceiling skirting boards... After that, the suspended ceiling made of PVC panels can be considered complete. Further, it is already possible to carry out the installation of lamps, wall decoration and cleaning of construction debris.

Video - Making a ceiling from PVC panels

As you can see, fixing PVC panels to the ceiling is a fairly simple task that does not require you to have a lot of knowledge and experience in construction. Therefore, for self-decoration of the room and, in particular, the ceiling, plastic panels are the best possible option.

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How to dock and how to fix plastic panels? How to insert the last plastic panel and how to disassemble the panels?

Plastic panels are the most common material when it is necessary to obtain a decent effect at minimal cost, not only by creating an exclusive design of the finish, but also by obtaining a practical coating that is easy to care for.

How to fix plastic panels?

Fastening of plastic panels must be carried out on a specially mounted lathing, for which can be used:

• Wooden beams- in rooms with normal humidity levels;
• Metallic profile- in rooms with normal humidity and outdoors;
• Plastic profile- for bathrooms, baths, saunas and other rooms with a high level of humidity;

The frame is made over the entire area of ​​the wall or ceiling to be covered, its ribs should be located with the same pitch, which is determined by the thickness and length of the plastic panel, after installation, in the intercostal space it should not flex when pressed, or "play."

After installing the battens panels are being installed with the installation of the starting U-shaped profile, and the finishing point can be the same, if the installation is carried out exclusively for the wall, or the F-shaped profile used to secure the end of the panel to the outer corner.

Pointed end panel installed first in the profile, and then its blunt locking side is fixed relative to the lathing.

Fasteners are in progress using self-tapping screws, if a wooden bar is used, then a stapler and staples are used, you can also use special fasteners.

All these connections will be closed by the next panel, so only smooth and aesthetic surface.

How to insert the last plastic panel?

Covering the wall with plastic panels only at first glance seems difficult, but you just have to try and make sure that not only simple occupation but also interesting.

In fact, editing is set already cut by the size of the panels into the frame from the profile of the required shape and fixing them relative to the ribs of the frame fixed to the wall.

The frame itself can be made from wooden beams or metal profiles, for bathrooms and bathrooms, a special plastic profile is used, which will avoid the destruction of the crate.

The whole process comes down to installing each subsequent panel in the groove of the previous one and fixing them with fasteners, however, finishing the cladding, many who first decided to do this experience difficulties with installing the last panel.

It very rarely happens that the last panel corresponds in size to the remaining area of ​​the surface, so it need to cut, with its sharp edge, it is first inserted into the lock of the penultimate panel, and with the cut side into the finishing profile.

Moreover, her additional mount not required.

How to disassemble plastic panels?

One of the advantages of cladding with plastic panels is the ability to always, if necessary disassemble the structure... This can happen if, for example, the owners decided to update the furnishings, or the water pipes hidden behind the panel, which happens quite often, have leaked.

In any case, the dismantled materials not worth throwing away, even if you do not even plan to install them back, as a practical and dirt-resistant surface can be useful everywhere.

If the cladding is to be repaired, then the external fixing profiles must remain intact, therefore disassembly starts from the last panel, which is not fixed relative to the lathing.

All other segments following her removed in the reverse order of installation, respectively, freeing themselves from their fasteners.

Difficulties can only arise if the panels attached to the lathing with glue, but this is also solvable, in this case the mounting knife will help, it is necessary to extend the blade to the maximum length and, carefully, so as not to break it, cut the joints.

Also see:

If the panels were attached with a stapler, you will have to remove the staples with a screwdriver, however, this is still faster than unscrewing the screws.

Also watch a video tutorial with practical tips on how to dock plastic panels

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Home »Ceiling» Ceiling made of PVC (plastic) panels: a step-by-step introduction

Plastic has many supporters and no less opponents. But if you need an inexpensive, quickly installed and attractive finish, then one of the most popular options is plastic panels. Their assortment is increasing every year. There are plain, striped, checkered, with flowers and plant elements, imitating brickwork, natural stones, etc. Of all this variety, the ceiling made of plastic panels is usually made monochromatic. And most often - white or very close to it - with a light shade, such as "baked milk", ecru, ivory, etc.

A small part of the assortment of plastic panels

According to the type of surface, they can be glossy or matte. There are collections with a rough top surface - for those who prefer original solutions. Also available with shiny accents. But since the ceiling made of plastic panels is almost always made in technical rooms - kitchen, bathroom, toilet, on the balcony - small dimensions, as a rule, force you to choose a glossy surface: it visually raises the ceiling, and due to reflection, the room seems more spacious. Also, reflections on the ceiling increase the illumination - with a matte ceiling, it is necessary to take more lamps or increase their power.

Harmful or not

You can often hear that plastic has no place in the house. Perhaps, but we have plastic almost everywhere. They even pack goods in it, we have many products in the kitchen and in the bathroom, too, made of plastic. PVC panels are made from the same group of plastics as syringes and food containers. What is nice is that this material has no pores in which bacteria and other microorganisms can settle. If there is a nutrient medium on the surface and conditions are favorable, they will multiply, but they can be removed with one movement of a cloth soaked in soapy water or disinfectant solution. Plastic panels are really hygienic. Proof can be considered the fact that the sanitary station allows them to decorate medical institutions.

There are plastic panels mirrored or with mirrored parts - stripes

The second point that stops many: the flammability of plastics. They really burn. They begin to maintain the flame at a temperature of + 360 ° C. For comparison: chipboard and fiberboard, OSB start to burn at + 250 ° C. If we compare these materials by the amount of smoke emitted, then plastics emit it by 40-50% less.

Another reason: the ceiling made of plastic panels does not breathe. If you live in a private house and you have a ventilated attic upstairs, air exchange is important. If you live in a high-rise building, you still need to equip a ventilation system, which is a must in both the kitchen and the bathroom with a toilet. And to prevent condensation from accumulating behind the ceiling, build a pair of ventilation grilles in the ceiling in opposite corners. Although, the ceiling is still leaky and with sufficient air exchange, no problems arise.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

All PVC panels are divided into two categories: wall and ceiling. They differ in rigidity and weight: the mechanical strength is unimportant on the ceiling, therefore the material is made lightweight, with thin walls. You need to handle them carefully: you can even crush them with two fingers. Is it possible to mount wall panels on the ceiling. It is possible, but they are more expensive, and their higher strength is not in demand. In addition, they are heavier, therefore the load on the frame (if any) will be slightly increased, and this must be taken into account when installing it.

Now about the sizes of panels and the types of their surfaces. There is a material whose appearance resembles a lining: the same stripes, only made of plastic. The ceiling of such panels is also called rack-and-pinion because the surface is very similar in appearance.

Rack plastic ceilings

An almost flat surface, without gaps, with hardly distinguishable joints, is obtained from seamless plastic panels. The joints of such panels are almost invisible: the front surface is flat and smooth, and on the sides there is a spike and a groove, like on a regular lining, with the help of which the sheathing is assembled.

Ceiling made of seamless plastic panels

There is also sheet plastic. It is more difficult to work with it and it is not used much: it is necessary if columns or other nonlinear surfaces are being trimmed, and it is more convenient to assemble the ceiling from slats.

There are PVC sheet ceiling panels

The pluses of ceilings made of plastic panels include ease of maintenance: almost any contamination is washed off with warm soapy water. The appearance remains unchanged for about 5-10 years - it depends on the quality of the plastic.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels

When buying PVC slats, you will also need finishing profiles - moldings - with which the ends and joints are made out. Their choice depends on the configuration of your room and on how exactly you are going to make the ceiling. There are two options: make a false ceiling or attach the plastic directly to the main one.

Types of profiles for installing plastic panels

Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels

On the one hand, the suspended ceiling allows you to secretly lay communications, without being engaged in wall chasing. On the other hand, it "eats" a certain height. At least 3 cm will go to it. But this is if the lamps are installed ordinary, and not built-in. To install a built-in lamp, the false ceiling must be lowered from the main one by 8-12 cm. You will not find smaller lamps, except for furniture or LED ones. If you put enough of them and make the mirror illumination separately, then the illumination should be enough.

Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels

Assembling the frame

When installing a suspended ceiling, a frame is assembled from guides. Profiles are most often used for working with drywall. If you are doing the ceiling in the bathroom or in the kitchen, take galvanized profiles and fasteners. In drier rooms, this is not critical. They also assemble a frame from wooden bars of 30 * 30 mm or larger section.

Nailed planks or profiles first along the perimeter, putting them all in a level. Then, on standard suspensions (there are two types) or wooden blocks, intermediate guides are fixed in increments of 50-60 cm. They are also aligned so that they are in the same plane as those installed earlier (it is easier to do if you pull the threads between the already installed ones and align them along them).

A ready-made frame for a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels

If you decide to make the minimum indentation, just to lay the corrugated hose - 3 mi, then the strips are nailed directly to the ceiling. If necessary, the level is leveled using lining - pieces of plywood, wood wedges, etc. In this case, the wireframe looks something like this.

In order not to lower the ceiling, the gap can be minimized

Installation of starting strips

After the frame is assembled, you can start installing the plastic panels. It begins with the installation of a start profile. In the case of the ceiling, a ceiling molding is also used.

Attach one of these profiles first

It is fastened close to the profile or bar fixed around the perimeter of the room. The edges are sawn at an angle of exactly 45 °. The length must be measured very accurately: the slightest discrepancy leads to the appearance of gaps. Against the background of a white ceiling and white profiles (or colored, it doesn't matter), the cracks turn black very clearly. If they are small, it will be possible to cover with putty, but it is better to cut it off clearly: exactly along the length of the wall or with a light - 1 mm - space.

The cut-off strip can be glued or screwed on with self-tapping screws. It is better to glue the ceiling molding (on liquid nails). So the joint turns out to be perfect: by gluing you press the bar tightly, screwing it onto the "bugs" you cannot achieve such an effect, since it twists it forward a little.

On the side that goes to the wall, a thin strip of glue is applied in a zigzag pattern. The surface of the wall is degreased (you can take 646 solvent). After drying, the piece is set in place, pressed tightly along its entire length and comes off. There should be some glue on the wall. Leave it to dry for a few minutes (4-8, depending on the viscosity, the bar should not float, and the glue should stick well) and then put it in place. To make sure that the bar is level, take a rule, a ruler, a flat bar and check the level of the glued starter profile. If necessary, until the glue has finally set, the bar is adjusted.

Installation of a starter profile for plastic panels

Having glued the starting profiles on three sides (with the letter P), they are left to dry, otherwise, when installing the strips, you can move. After 8-12 hours, the glue will harden and installation can be continued.

If during gluing "Liquid Nails" squeezed out somewhere, do not clean it. Wait until completely dry, then pry off with a sharp knife. The glue will simply break off and there will be no traces. If you try to remove it with a liquid, it will only smear and stain everything around.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling

After the glue has dried, you can start installing the plastic panels themselves. Measure the size from one joint of the already mounted skirting boards to another, add 1.5-1.8 cm to this value. Cut the panels to this length. You do not need to do them over the entire width or length of the room - they will not become in profile. If the geometry of the room is ideal, you can cut a lot at once. If there are deviations in size, do several pieces, adjusting the length along the way. You can cut plastic with a jigsaw or a grinder.

The first panel fits into the previously installed molding from three sides. It is placed with a thorn forward - in the bar. Sometimes, if the finishing profile is made of soft plastic, the top (mounting shelf) will flex, making installation difficult. To reduce the deflection, this edge can be grabbed with self-tapping screws. This will make it easier to insert the strip, otherwise you have to correct it with a spatula, setting the panel in place. It should fit into the baseboard or starter profile exactly along its entire length. The inserted strip is fixed to each guide with a self-tapping screw. For fastening to a wooden frame, you can use a stapler with staples (if you are installing in a bathroom or kitchen, then take the staples from stainless steel or galvanized).

Installation of the first strip of plastic panels on the ceiling

The setting of subsequent lanes is the same. They are installed first with one edge - into the molding (it goes into the skirting board by 6-7 mm), then insert the other edge. After that, the bar is leveled, lifting the middle with the hand and eliminating the deflection, tapping along the edge with the palm of the hand, driving the lock into the groove. It doesn't take much effort, just to get a tight fit. Below you will see that there is no gap at the junction, which means the strip has become normal.

If there is an assistant, he supports the installed panel so that it does not fall out while fixing it to the screws (staples). If you work alone, you can eliminate the sag by sticking small pieces of double-sided tape on the profile. They will hold the bar until you secure it. So you collect all the panels.

During the installation process, do not forget to cut holes for the installation of fixtures. You can do this with a ballerina or a ring nozzle, you can try it with a jigsaw, but if you are good at the tool and you can make a round hole. As it turned out, you can make a hole with a conventional drill with a thin drill ... how? Watch the video. There are a couple more practical tips.

Having installed a strip or strips in which there is a hole for the lamp, you immediately mount it, connect it and check it. If this is not done right away, then problems may arise: how can you connect the wires if the entire ceiling is already assembled? Just disassemble part of it. And if you put the last strip on glue? We'll have to break it. Therefore, we install and check the performance immediately.

Installing the last panel

Most of the difficulties arise when installing the last strip. It usually has to be trimmed. Measure the actual distance on one side of the ceiling and on the other. The difference can be several centimeters. There is nothing unusual or complicated in this. But then there are two options:

• Simply insert the cut strip into the pre-glued starter profile or plastic skirting board. With sufficient panel width, this is possible. But then from the measured distance you need to subtract about 5-7 mm and so cut off the strip. Otherwise, you will not insert it. And so it has to be carefully corrected with something thin (steel spatula) so that it fits into place. After several attempts, it still turns out ... But besides the difficulties with the installation, there is another drawback: after a while, since the strip is slightly shorter, it departs (sinks more into the molding) and a small gap appears in the ceiling.
• The second option is to glue the strip. Then, cutting off the last panel, set aside the distance previously measured on the ceiling as it is. And not from the beginning of the panel itself, but from the stop bar. Then it is glued in its pure form on "liquid nails". Only the glue is applied not to the strip, but to all the guides. And the one that is along the wall, and on perpendicular laying (to which they were attached with self-tapping screws). Further, the technology is the same: they applied, pressed down, set aside for a few minutes, and then finally installed. The disadvantage of this method is that the strip is not removable. It will need to be broken if necessary. Therefore, leave one more in stock - just in case.

The installation of the plastic ceiling made of PVC panels is almost complete. It remains to install the last plastic skirting board. On it, the mounting strip is first cut off: leave only the baseboard. After that, you also cut it at the corners at 45 °, try it on, just cut it off. After trying again "dry" and making sure that the size is correct, the plinth is smeared with glue, only now both shelves: the one that will be glued to the ceiling, and the one that will be glued to the wall.

Installation of the last plank

Sealing gaps with acrylic

Actually, the installation is over. But sometimes one more operation is necessary: ​​covering all the gaps with white acrylic. This operation is not needed if you bought high-quality panels that have perfect geometry - French and Belgian. After assembling them, there is no need for correction: there is no sagging, which is formed due to the fact that the panels are uneven. Otherwise, take an acrylic sealant, insert the tube into the assembly gun, and fill in all the cracks and gaps. Usually these are joints and corners, as well as the junction of the plastic skirting board with the ceiling. Often there are so many slots that you have to go through the entire perimeter.

Fill the gaps in small sections of 30-40 cm, removing all unnecessary and leveling the seam. Acrylic smoothes well until it grasps, and this is a matter of seconds. Because - they smeared a piece, corrected it. If everything is fine, smear on. You can remove excess acrylic with a soft cloth, but sometimes it is more convenient to use your finger - for some reason it turns out smoother. After smearing a piece, take an object with a sharp and even edge (a small spatula) and a damp sponge. Cut off the excess putty evenly with a sharp corner of a spatula, then rub everything with a damp sponge, until it is clean, otherwise you will not wipe it off later. So go through the entire perimeter and leave to dry for 8-12 hours.

Fresh acrylic wipes well

After the acrylic dries, it can be pulled into the seam. We have to take the tube again and fill the gaps that appear, rub, remove the excess and wash off the smeared. This, the second time, is usually the finishing one. After drying this layer, stains remain on the plastic ceiling. Wipe them with a damp, clean sponge and then gently rub them with a soft cloth until they shine. Now the ceiling made of plastic panels is ready, and after installing the fixtures, the repair can be considered complete.

How to mount to the ceiling

If the ceiling is already flat and does not need level correction, the plastic panels can be attached directly to it. The order of work is the same: first, the starting profile, then the strips cut to size are inserted into it, fixing at least 50 cm.

You choose fasteners depending on the material from which the floor is made. You can hit a tree with nails or staples from a stapler. It is more difficult with concrete: self-tapping screws will not work, and you will be tortured to drill a hole for a dowel for each fastening. Then it is better to assemble the frame with a minimum indent from the ceiling and then collect everything as described above.

Wireframe with minimum padding

Another option is to glue on liquid nails. The technology is well-known, but its disadvantage is that such a ceiling made of plastic panels turns out to be non-separable and in which case it will have to be completely dismantled.

Ceiling luminaires made of plastic panels

It's not about design or quantity - here everyone is determined by himself, but about the type of lamps and power supply. There are two options: install ordinary lamps for 220 V or with a step-down transformer for 12 V. In the first option, they put ordinary incandescent lamps or housekeepers, in the second - halogen or LED. In any case, a separate machine with an RCD should be allocated for the lighting of the bathroom or kitchen, which will turn off the electricity supply in the event of a short circuit.

Features of installation and selection of lamps for 220 V

If you install lamps for 220 V, and put in them even low-power (40-60 W) incandescent lamps, you will have to somehow take care of the thermal insulation of the case. Due to the fact that the lamp heats up, its body also gets very hot. From the heated case, the plastic darkens and warps over time. Therefore, glue a layer of some kind of flexible heat-insulating material on the body.

One of the options for a 220 V ceiling lamp

The second point concerns electrical safety when working in lighting at 220 V. It is necessary to install lamps with a high degree of protection in the bathroom: at least IP44. This means that the lamp housing is protected from water jets. Such lamps cost a lot: the technology is complex. The second point: for the most part they are rather bulky, since the case is usually ceramic. You won't be able to simply hang it on plastic: you will need mortgages. They are installed when assembling the frame: these are additional jumpers in those places where the lamps will be attached.

Halogen and LED

Since lamps of this type require only 12 V, the electrical safety requirements are lower here. In principle, any design is suitable. Power from the panel after the machine is supplied to the transformer, and from it to the lamps. Up to 4 lamps can be powered from one transformer, but there is a limitation in the instructions for them: the maximum length of the wire to the lamp should not exceed 2 meters. Lamps work normally even at a distance of 2.5-2.7 meters. At a higher voltage, the voltage drop is already significant and the glow is weaker.

Four halogen bulbs on the plastic ceiling are powered by one transformer

If you decide to put a transformer outside the bathroom to increase safety, this is a serious limitation, especially if the bathroom is rather big. Then it will have to be transferred to the bathroom and hidden behind a false ceiling made of plastic panels (the thickness of the device is about 3-4 cm).

Sometimes they put their own transformer on each lamp. This is normal, just more expensive, but justified with a large distance between the fixtures.

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Today, many methods are known for finishing ceilings in residential and public spaces. This is a classic whitewash, and wallpapering of a given surface, and tension and suspended structures, including multi-level ones. Suspended ceilings can be slatted (metal and PVC), plasterboard, plastic panels, tiled (Armstrong type), cassette.

Each of the listed types of ceiling structures undoubtedly has its own advantages. If you want to choose the most budgetary, but at the same time practical and with certain aesthetic advantages option, you can stop at the suspended ceiling made of plastic panels. Such designs are especially popular in bathrooms, kitchens, hallways, loggias, garages. How to make ceilings from plastic panels will be discussed in the article.

Features of PVC panels

Decorative PVC panels are a hollow honeycomb-type structure with a large number of stiffeners and, accordingly, air cells inside. The plates are equipped with locks along the edges, which represent a ridge on one side, and a groove on the other. Thanks to such a device, you can easily and efficiently join them together.

The main advantage of this material is moisture resistance. In addition, plastic panels are hygienic, since they do not contain pores on the surface, and therefore mold or mildew cannot pick them up. Housewives really appreciate how easy and simple it is to care for this material: it is enough to occasionally wipe them with a rag moistened with soapy water. That is why making the ceiling in the kitchen with plastic panels is a very attractive option.

Manufacturers guarantee the service life of plastic panels for at least 10 years. In fact, if everything is done correctly, the ceilings will last much longer without losing quality. Plastic is frost-resistant, able to withstand significant temperature changes, is not subject to decay, and pests are not afraid of it.

Advantages of a PVC ceiling

If the time has come to update the repair in the apartment, but you want to get by with a small cost of money and effort, not to dilute a lot of dirt, you should think about how to make a suspended ceiling from plastic panels, because the installation process is quite simple and does not require any special tweaks. During operation, if such a need arises, it will be possible to easily replace one or more panels with new ones.

Another advantage is a wide range of panel colors. They can be matte or glossy, patterned or monochromatic, imitate natural materials: metal, stone, wood and even a mirror. There are plastic panels for both ceiling and wall finishes. There is no need to confuse them: the latter are distinguished by greater rigidity and weight, therefore it is not recommended to pile them up on the ceiling.

Plastic panels are a finishing material that has a very affordable cost. Plus, you can save money on a team of repairmen: the material is light both in processing and in weight, and the idea of ​​how to make a ceiling from plastic panels yourself is very real in execution. If you make the structure hinged, then the resulting gap can be used to hide communications, arrange additional noise and heat insulation, spotlights. In addition, in apartment buildings there are such significant defects in ceilings - cracks, cracks, level drops - that rather than trying to level this outrage, it is better to seriously think about how to make ceilings from plastic panels.

Environmental safety of the material

Plastic, of course, is not a natural material, but it is considered absolutely safe for humans. Indeed, PVC has found very wide application in everyday life, industry, medicine. However, making the ceiling in a room with plastic panels is not a good idea, especially if it is a bedroom. The advantages of this material will be more appropriate in other rooms. For example, you can make the ceiling of the toilet with plastic panels. If you choose glossy light models for this, this can visually expand the dimensions of the bathroom.

Disadvantages of ceilings made of plastic panels

Before seriously thinking about how to make ceilings from plastic panels in an apartment, you need to have an idea not only about the advantages, but also about certain disadvantages of this material.

Plastic does not support combustion and dies out, but at the same time it smokes and releases toxic substances. It is not for nothing that in public and administrative buildings and premises it is forbidden to use it to decorate escape routes in case of fire. Plastic panels - the material is quite fragile, easily damaged by shock loads. In principle, such an effect does not threaten the ceiling, but this should be borne in mind during transportation and installation.

Another drawback of finishing ceilings with decorative plastic panels is that you cannot build an original structure from this material, but it looks quite simple. However, if you correctly think over the design and combine various materials during the repair process, you will definitely not be ashamed of the result.

The joints between the panels will always be visible, even with the most careful installation. But sometimes this is even welcomed: for example, if a material that imitates wood is used. Economical models of plastic panels tend to fade over time, so it is better to choose a higher quality material.

How to make a suspended ceiling from plastic panels: preparatory work

In fact, no special preparatory work is required. It is enough to brush away dust and cobwebs from the ceiling, to clean up those places where the plaster peels off. The deepest cracks can be filled. But there is no need to be especially zealous: the new ceiling will cover all defects.

What is really important is to make sure that there is no mold and mildew, and prime the surface with special antiseptic compounds that prevent their occurrence. For convenience, it is worth to free the room from furniture to the maximum, remove curtain rods with curtains, remove carpets. However, there won't be much dust.

Purchase of panels for the ceiling

Before figuring out all the nuances of how to correctly make a ceiling from plastic panels, and translating this knowledge into reality, it is necessary to calculate the amount of materials for the future ceiling. Knowing the values ​​of the areas of the room and one plastic panel (this value is indicated on the packaging), it is easy to calculate the number of plates by dividing the first number by the second and rounding the resulting value up. It is unreasonable to purchase materials without a stock: after all, the panels will have to be cut, or a marriage will come across, or something may not work out the first time - so it is better to foresee such moments. Typically, standard plastic panels are 24 cm wide and 3 m long, but other options are possible.

When choosing PVC ceiling panels, you need to pay attention to their quality. The edges should be even, without chips, burrs, and the pattern should be applied evenly. A quality panel can withstand repeated bending in the same place without cracking. Stiffeners should not be visible on the face of the panel. It is definitely worth checking how easily the two plastic strips fit together and whether there is still a gap between them.

Frame materials

In addition to the PVC panels themselves, metal profiles or wooden beams will be needed to equip the ceiling. From these materials, it will be necessary to build a crate, to which the panels for the ceiling will be attached. Profiles or timber are fixed both along the perimeter of the room and parallel to one of the walls with a step of 50-60 cm.If you decide to arrange the panels perpendicular to the window opening so that the joints are not visible, then, therefore, the ceiling slats must be fixed along the wall with the window ...

It is easy to calculate the number of the guide profile: this value will be equal to the perimeter of the room. Ceiling slats are more difficult. We will have to draw a diagram of the room on a scale, on which to draw the required number of parallel lines indicating the frame for the ceiling tiles, and make careful calculations.

You will also need a decorative PVC molding (collapsible or monolithic): with its help it will be possible to close the joints of surfaces. In addition, the ends of the ceiling panels are tucked into the groove of this skirting board.

Fasteners and tools

To fasten the frame and plastic ceiling tiles, you will need dowels and self-tapping screws, the number of which is calculated taking into account the fact that one fastening element is required for every half meter of a profile or panel. Ceiling planks are attached using straight hangers spaced an average of 70 cm from each other, and for this, dowels are also needed.

Now about the tool. You must have: a drill, a hammer drill, a screwdriver, a hacksaw for metal, a building level, a tape measure, a ruler, a pencil and, of course, a stepladder.

Installation of the supporting frame

It should be noted that the entire installation process can be divided into two stages: the construction of the frame and the actual assembly of the ceiling. First you need to decide on the size of the gap between the base and false ceilings. It depends on what exactly is planned to be placed in this gap. Perhaps it will be spotlights, and then at least 10 cm will be needed.To lay the wiring, 3-5 cm will be enough.

Having determined the lowest corner of the ceiling with the help of the level, from this point you should keep a report, eventually drawing a line around the perimeter of the room. This marking will be a guideline for attaching the guide profile, which must be drilled very tightly to the wall, without gaps and voids. Bearing in mind that the ceiling frame strips (they use a less rigid profile than the one that is fixed around the perimeter) will be located perpendicular to the plastic panels, they are installed in 50-60 cm increments, inserting the ends into the guide profile and fixing them on the suspensions every 70 see. You can navigate during installation by the fishing line stretched across the room.

In principle, it is possible to build a supporting frame from a wooden beam, which is attached directly to the base ceiling, but only if we are not talking about rooms with high humidity. In any case, the wooden elements of the frame should be pre-treated with an antiseptic. Considering that the ceilings in modern apartments are most often uneven, it will not be so easy to set each wooden plank strictly horizontally.

At the stage of mounting the frame, you should think about the electrician and do not forget to bring the wiring in the right places. The frame must be reinforced at the location of the lighting fixtures. Further, along the perimeter of the room, a decorative PVC molding for ceiling panels is attached to the guide profiles: the whole, if the model is monolithic, or its removable strip, if the plinth is collapsible. In this case, its decorative part is installed after the assembly of the ceiling.

Installation of PVC panels

When the frame is ready, start assembling the ceiling from the wall. Pre-remove the protective film from the ceiling panels. The first plate is inserted into the grooves of the skirting boards - both longitudinal and transverse, after which it is fastened to the frame with self-tapping screws. The next one is installed in the same way, with the exception that instead of the longitudinal groove of the plinth, it is fastened to the adjacent panel. Each subsequent panel is easily snapped into the groove of the previous one, after which it is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws. Plastic panels are pre-cut so that their length is 5 mm less than the corresponding size of the room. The holes for the luminaires in the plates must be made in advance. If fastening to a wooden lathing, you can use brackets instead of self-tapping screws, but this is not a very reliable option.

When installing the panels, be careful not to bend them in an arc too much in order to prevent bending. The last panel will most likely need to be pre-cut to the desired width. It is not necessary to fasten it with self-tapping screws - it will be enough to fix it in the grooves of the previous panel and PVC skirting board. This work, with a sufficient degree of skill, is carried out quickly.

There is another way to make ceilings from plastic panels - frameless. In this case, the panels sit on liquid nails directly to the ceiling. But this option requires a perfectly flat base surface, and therefore it is not always acceptable.

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DIY installation video, photo

The beginning of the repair always implies a thorough plan and preparation for this responsible business. You do not want to rush into all seriousness, and then rake the consequences of a protracted repair for more than one year?

A long journey is not our method, so we need to make repairs quickly and efficiently.

PVC ceiling panels

Often, the surfaces of the walls and ceiling of rooms with high humidity are exposed to the harmful effects of aggressive environments, temperature fluctuations, and vapor permeability contributes to the development of mold, mildew and other unpleasant consequences.

According to the repair rules, we need to start the repair from the top down, that is, from the ceiling, and eliminate any flaws. What kind of coating to choose for the operational purpose of a room with high humidity? PVC ceiling! From the article you will learn how to quickly make ceilings from PVC panels and get acquainted with the detailed technology.

Materials and tools

Stocking up on the right tools

Let's first decide on a set of tools and materials for finishing work.

Before you do the installation of PVC panels on the ceiling with your own hands, you will certainly need:

• PVC panels;
• Moldings, depending on the installation of a specific type of panels;
• Square for accurate marking;
• Mounting level;
• Roulette and pencil;
• Cord for marking straight lines;
• Screwdriver and drill;
• Dowel;
• Kleimers and hammer drill;
• Sharp knife, hacksaw and small scissors;
• Ladder.

It is advisable to buy the material for the ceilings immediately with a margin, so that later you do not run to the store again. However, this also applies to the rest of the instruments from the list.

Select panels relative to the layout of the room. If it is small, narrow panels (25 - 50 cm) will suit you, large panels are suitable, respectively, up to 3 m.

PVC panels - a versatile material for finishing

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the installation of ceiling panels is not too easy to handle alone, so you should get an assistant - this will go much faster!

How to choose PVC panels?

Not everyone knows that the strength and durability of plastic panels can be determined by yourself. How?

This is not difficult to do:

1. First of all, before buying, inspect the surface of the PVC panel and pay attention to its geometry.
   The uniformity of the pattern, the correctness of the shapes and the ideal outer surface are the key to quality and shape support;
2. Second, examine the stiffeners... They are located in the inner cavity of the plastic panel. Ribs should not stick out from the outside and show through from the front side;
3. Determine the density of the PVC panel... To do this, squeeze the panel tightly and examine the results of the experiment. If the panel is made with high quality and all technologies were followed correctly, it will not crack or deform;
4. Test the flexibility of the shape... Each panel has a docking corner - try bending it up. Perform the manipulation several times, the plastic should remain intact. This is a sure indicator of the durability of the PVC panel.

PVC panel

We recommend that you also count the number of ribs inside for different types of panels that have the same width before installing the ceiling. This inconsequential point may subsequently turn out to be a problem. The more stiffening ribs, the more reliable the ceiling design will be.

Pay attention to the thickness of the stiffeners and the thickness of the walls - thick and strong keeps its shape remarkably and, accordingly, your choice should fall on such a PVC panel.

Finally, you can try to dock the two panels and check them for gaps in the joints. The panels are made of high quality - light in weight and do not leave traces of assembly. Also, the panel should not crack and break.

If you see chips on the plastic - the manufacturer has "overdone" the content of chalk, which weakens its operational properties, and the installation of PVC panels on the ceiling may end up breaking one or more pieces for you.

Fastening plastic panels

To begin with, you should know that the assembly of a ceiling made of PVC panels provides for a structure that includes the main elements: a frame (crate) and finishing profiles. In our case, these are PVC panels.

Preparatory stage

Have you already made a frame for PVC panels? If not, then it is made from wooden or metal slats. The frame is fastened at a distance of approximately 50 cm from each other, which makes it possible to compensate for unevenness in the ceiling in the kitchen.

Metal frame

So that the frame is evenly fixed on the ceiling and hides irregularities and flaws, we will make the markup correctly:

• Determine the smallest height;
• From the lowest point, draw two lines along the walls with a cord rubbed with chalk;
• Let's check the horizontal level and correct it.

After you have finished working with the markup, you can proceed to the installation of the frame structure itself. Pay attention to the formation of right angles.

The frame must be mounted strictly perpendicular to the PVC panels.

For this:

Can be used to attach the staple

Having marked the lines for attaching the profile along the perimeter, we will achieve an ideal plane;

1. We fix the profile tightly on the wall, excluding the formation of voids and gaps;
2. We fix the transverse profiles;
3. We mount the base for fastening PVC panels to them.
4. We attach the mounting plastic profile to the profiles and fix it with self-tapping screws.

Pay attention to the location of wiring, communications, lamps and other electrics before installing the panels.

Installation process

For those who have already rolled up their sleeves and intend to install PVC panels on the ceiling - the video will be the best assistant:

Ceiling decoration with PVC panels:

Docking panels

Cut the plastic panels to the length of the ceiling... It is good if you have foreseen the exact length of the panels in advance.
For this we use a hacksaw for metal or an ordinary hacksaw. It is advisable to cut the panel 1 cm less than the distance at which the profiles are located.

It is very important to fix the panels end-to-end without gaps

Installation of the PVC panel is carried out by placing it in the profile and fixing it with self-tapping screws..
We start from the edge. It is very important to start correctly and secure the first panel to the batten.
Pay attention to the perpendicular position relative to the walls, because if you start fixing them crookedly, then the next panels will not snap into each other's grooves.

1. The following panels are inserted into each other and fixed to the mounting profile. The joint should be as tight as possible and not reveal gaps.
2. We put the edges of the PVC panels into the strips, and the last panel is adjusted to the distance to the wall and carefully inserted. Each panel should be tightly connected to each other and not create a gap.

Quite often, instead of a metal profile, wooden slats and strips are bought, self-tapping screws are replaced with staples. The answer here is simple - these materials are much cheaper, and the installation of wooden slats on the ceiling is easy to attach.

However, don't think that cheap is synonymous with reliable. Finishing ceilings with PVC panels in rooms with a large accumulation of moisture subsequently becomes overgrown with problems. A wooden floor that is constantly exposed to moisture will begin to collapse over time and spoil the plastic panels, deforming their structure.

In addition

Even before installing the ceilings, it is advisable to determine in advance where the various elements of the interior and lighting will be located. You can reinforce the battens with additional battens and place them more frequently.

Final moment

Firstly, this will facilitate the fastening of parts in the room, and secondly, it is desirable immediately after the installation of the ceiling panel is completed:

• Drill holes for lamps and luminaires,
• Lead the wires out.

You can reliably hide communications and wiring in the interceiling space, as well as experiment with the colors of plastic panels or install a PVC ceiling plinth; for this finishing touch:

• We cut the plinth at an angle of 45 0 with a special miter box or a hacksaw;
• We glue the plinth carefully, trying to avoid getting glue on the walls and wallpaper, since it will be problematic to remove it from there later;
• Apply acrylic sealant to the gaps between the skirting board and the ceiling, joints, etc.

We have described the main positions of how the ceiling is finished with PVC panels. For greater clarity, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with another small, but very informative video. We hope he will become your assistant.

Video tutorial on installing a ceiling from PVC panels:

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Do-it-yourself ceiling made of plastic panels

Hello, friends! It's been a long time since I released materials on ceilings, it's a mess, I have to make up for it. We already know everything about drywall, so now I propose to figure out how ceilings are made from plastic panels. After all, this is a very popular solution for kitchens, bathrooms, loggias and balconies.

From this lesson we will learn why plastic ceilings are so popular, what are their main advantages and disadvantages, and here I will also tell you how they are generally mounted. But let's start, as always, from afar ...

Probably not everyone knows what kind of plastic panels are they? Will explain. They are long (usually 270 - 300 cm), flat plastic "sheets", with an average width of 25 - 30 cm. Their short ends are simply cut off, and the long ones have locks similar to those we see on the laminate floor.

They are mounted on a wooden (collective farm style detected) or metal (another thing) frame, the same as for the gypsum board.

This is what a regular piece of such a PVC panel looks like:

As you can see, the panels are hollow inside, but with numerous stiffeners. Therefore, they have very low weight and good strength. To sheathe the ceiling or walls with them, we still need special profiles, also PVC. Let's take a look at them.

Types of PVC profiles

So, let's get acquainted with the most common types of plastic profiles:

What they serve for:

1. Starter, the most common. It serves to close the ends of the panels, for example, it is attached to the ceiling along the perimeter of the room.
2. The F-profile is designed, again, to close the ends at the outer corners when moving to other planes. That is, for example, one wall is sheathed, but the one around the corner is not.
3. The H-profile is also called connecting. As you might guess, it is used to extend the length of the panels.
4. The outer plastic corner (the inner one looks about the same). Closes the ends at the outer (and, accordingly, inner) corners.
5. Plastic ceiling plinth. In fact, this is the same starting profile, but slightly refined.
6. Universal plastic corner. It is glued to any corners, but it looks unpromising.

Now, as I promised, let's look at the advantages of using plastic for the ceiling.

Advantages

PVC ceilings have most of the advantages of stretch ceilings. Namely:

• The ability to level surfaces of any curvature without the need to dismantle the old coating
• Possibility of trouble-free hiding under plastic of various communications
• Ease of mounting a variety of luminaires
• Lightweight construction (much lighter than drywall)
• The possibility of using noise and heat insulation
• Complete absence of "wet" processes (not only during installation)

In addition, panel ceilings significantly outperform, for example, plasterboard ceilings at the final price and ease of installation - assembled and that's it, you don't need any putty, skinning, painting, etc. And, finally, their first main advantage (in relation to gypsum and plaster) is maximum moisture resistance.

Such a ceiling, by definition, cannot grow moldy, it will not change its properties in any way over the years. Did the neighbors fill it up? Again, no problem, the plastic doesn't give a damn. The second mega-advantage is the ability to dismantle and re-install such a ceiling. No comment here.

However, the hero of our lesson also has disadvantages (eh, damn it, why not without them?). Firstly, this is the limited form: for example, multi-level plastic ceilings cannot be assembled. Secondly, most of the ceilings made of plastic panels look completely cheap. In addition, a joint is always visible between the panels.

Of course, the more expensive they are, the better they look, but still ... Therefore, their scope, as a rule, is limited to bathrooms and loggias, sometimes kitchens. There is one more subtlety. There are frankly awful ceilings that can be seen through with spotlights, this is really an ambush. Do not take outright cheap stuff, you can then regret it bitterly.

We will consider the most technically difficult case of installation - the ceiling made of PVC panels in the bathroom, where the tiles have already been laid on the walls. Yes, by the way, we need the same tool as in the lesson "Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling" with a few exceptions.

Preparation and installation of the frame

We have an ordinary bathroom, the tiles are already laid out and 10-20 cm does not reach the rough ceiling (on purpose).

Here we have two options: either we will set the frame over the tile, or directly on it.

Both methods have disadvantages. If we fix the guide profile on the wall directly above the tile, then we will have problems with attaching the starting profile to it, because the thickness of the guide (and so not wide) will decrease by the thickness of the tile with glue, which is at least a centimeter. The second method is potentially dangerous for damage to the finished cladding, so it disappears immediately.

I suggest the following. Take, for example, Rotband and apply a narrow strip over the tile, 5 centimeters wide, resting on the finished tile surface. Thus, the plane of attachment of the profile will coincide with the plane of the cladding. Just do not need to "pull" the rule - leave hard-to-wipe metallized traces. Better to use a plastic trowel. And do not forget to glue the upper tiled row with masking tape so as not to make the seams.

The guides can be fixed as soon as the plaster has set, that is, after a few hours. For their fastening, we use dowel-nails. By the way, take high-quality galvanized profiles for the bathroom, and not any domestic bullshit! Humidity, after all.

Next comes the suspensions. In my example, the length of standard straight lines is enough, but if in your case the ceiling needs to be lowered below, then use suspensions with clips:

I mount them in increments of no more than 60 cm, and I make the pitch of the profiles for the ceiling equal to 50 cm, so nothing will sag with us: neither the profiles, nor the panels.

Transverse, by the way, we do not need. Do not forget to take into account the location of future fixtures when marking profiles. The finished wireframe should look something like this:

Next, we attach the starting profile to the guide profile using self-tapping screws with a press washer. We choose a distance of no more than 50 cm between them. It is clear that we sew the starting profile with the wide side up. This must be done very carefully so as not to scratch or pierce its front side. You can immediately cut it off on a miter box at 45 degrees (in the corners), but it will be safer to insert them into each other at the corner, fix it and then cut it diagonally with a sharp knife.

Panel mounting

We begin the installation, of course, across the profiles. We cut off the first panel, make it a little shorter than the width of the room, by 3-5 mm. We cut it with a small hacksaw, jigsaw or grinder, clean the edges with a sandpaper or an abrasive mesh. We try not to wrinkle the panels.

And most importantly - do not forget to remove the film from them before editing, if any!

This is a very common joint! Then there may be no laughing matter.

First, we put one of the narrow ends into the starting profile, slightly bend the panel and start the second one. Then we slide it into the profile with a wide end. Use a narrow spatula if necessary, but be careful. All that remains is to attach it to the profiles with self-tapping screws with a press washer. This must be done very carefully. If the bit breaks off the self-tapping screw, it can pierce the panel, and it will have to be thrown out. You can first drill a hole in the profiles, and then calmly drive a self-tapping screw into it, it will be safer.

Insert the second profile in the same way. We connect locks, sew:

Do not worry, the heads of the self-tapping screws will not stick out, everything is provided for in the design of the panels. Go ahead, not in a hurry:

Everything, all whole panels are fixed:

The final touch remains - to mount the last panel. But how to do that? I'll show you a non-standard move, know-how, so to speak. Obviously, you first need to cut it lengthwise, it's silly to argue with that. Now we cut it to length, and we take the distance, literally a millimeter less than the distance from one wall to the beginning of the starting profile at the opposite one. We insert the panel all the way with one side into the profiles, right into the corner. In this case, the second end will dangle freely, and it can also be inserted without problems, slightly pushing it out of the first corner.

Thus, we have a small gap between the last and the penultimate panel, and we will need to dock them somehow. Sometimes you can do it with your hands, but more often than not. Then masking tape comes to the rescue. We glue a couple of strips across the last panel and pull it up to the previous one. It is done.

Holes for fixtures can be cut both on-site and on the ground. For this, crowns of the corresponding diameter, and drills, and even a knife are suitable - the ceiling material is cut very easily. And here's what the final result looks like:

That, in principle, is all that concerns the installation of ceilings from plastic panels. This concludes our lesson. If you liked it, I suggest subscribing to updates here at this link. Good luck and see you on the site!

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How to properly sheathe the ceiling with PVC panels

Home / Types of ceilings / From plastic panels / We sheathe the ceiling with PVC panels - how to do it right?

Sheathing the ceiling with pvc strips is not too difficult. However, everything needs to be done as it should be and it is also necessary to be able to properly fix pvc panels to the ceiling. There are some nuances here, the knowledge of which will help to achieve the best result and, as a result, a perfectly designed ceiling.

What you need to know

PVC panels are plastic strips with a length from two and a half to six meters and a width from ten centimeters to eighty. Sometimes, you can find broader details, but they are not very common.

The thickness can vary from five to ten millimeters. How thick the bar will be depends on its strength and type. By type, they are divided into ceiling and wall. However, the difference in type is only formal - the ceiling varieties are lighter and thinner, and the wall parts will be thicker and heavier.

The fixing of pvc panels to the ceiling or wall is carried out on a pre-prepared frame made of aluminum profiles or wooden bars. Sometimes, in narrow and long rooms, fragments of the coating are placed across and do not use any base parts, except for a plastic skirting board with special grooves for attaching the ends. This approach is incorrect - after a while, even the strongest planks will begin to sag, since they are not fixed in the center with anything.

Be sure to take into account that wooden frame bases cannot be used when assembling such ceilings in bathrooms or other places where the humidity is high. Also, wooden substrates should be avoided when installing such coverings outdoors. Temperature changes are also bad for wooden parts.

A construction stapler is often used as one of the tools for quickly and easily attaching pvc panels to the ceiling. It significantly speeds up the installation process and makes work easier. However, it can be used as the main fastening tool only with light types of coatings. It is not recommended to fasten heavy strips with staples, since the connection will not be sufficiently reliable.

The most important nuances of installation will be shown in a video that shows how to make a ceiling from pvc panels and is presented a little below.

Frame

The best material for assembling the base of a suspended structure will always be a metal profile. It is very easy to process, easily cut into pieces of the required length and does not cause complications in installation. However, there is also a subtlety here. If installation is carried out in a bathroom, kitchen or in open areas, only a galvanized profile must be used.

Steel blanks are not suitable as they will rust over time. If the frame parts are made of aluminum, then the problem disappears - this material is not subject to corrosion and can be used in any conditions.

Fixing panels

To hem the ceiling with pvc panels the way it should be done, you will only need to use self-tapping screws to fix them. No staples, staplers, or anything else. For any type of planks, whether heavy or light. A self-tapping screw with a press washer will ensure maximum reliability of the entire structure.

Installation process

If we take into account all the above nuances, then the installation of the structure will take place without problems. In order to better imagine the main stages of all operations, you can watch the video below, which shows in sufficient detail how to sheathe the ceiling with PVC panels, as well as how such an installation is performed on the walls.

In case, nevertheless, there are some unclear points, you can simply follow all the points of the specially compiled instructions.

Here precision is required when setting all marks at the same level. How accurately everything will be done will depend on how the coating will look after assembly.

The first mark is applied at the lowest corner of the room. The distance from the ceiling to the point is determined based on the dimensions of the ceiling of the luminaires and the presence of utilities under the ceiling, which must be hidden.

The applied first point is duplicated in all other corners. The easiest way to do this is to use a water level. When all the corners are marked, the points are connected with horizontal lines. Here, a marking cord and an assistant will come in handy, which will hold the opposite edge of the cord.

• Perimeter installation

This is followed by the installation of parts of the frame, which are attached along the perimeter of the room to the walls. It is imperative to control the horizontality of all installed parts of the base. To install pvc panels, the best option for attaching the end part will be a special plastic profile, which is attached from below to the installed metal parts of the base.

• Installation of crosspieces

The transverse elements of the frame are fastened with their ends into the parts mounted along the perimeter. If necessary, they are additionally fixed with ceiling hangers. During installation, you should again check the horizontal level of installation of all parts.

The final stage of the work is the installation of decorative coating details, consisting of separate plastic strips. Everything is simple here - the first fragment is installed so that the groove remains on the free side of the part. Each next part of the coating is inserted into the groove of the previous one. This continues until one part remains. It should be cut to the size of the remaining free space and inserted into place, along with one of the plastic skirting boards.

How to fix the last and in general all pvc panels to the ceiling could be seen in the video that is inserted above. One of the options for installing the last part of the coating is also considered there.

• Final operations

Depending on the chosen method of installing the decorative plinth, you can fix it in different ways. The most common option is in which all the strips are mounted already in the installed plastic corners.

However, sometimes the baguette is attached after the entire canvas has been assembled. In this case, the final stage will be the installation of the baguette and the installation of lighting fixtures. If everything is done as described in this manual, all that remains is to insert all the lamps into place and clean up.

Plastic cladding of premises does not provide for preliminary preparation of the walls: leveling, removing old paint or wallpaper, plaster, etc. Facing with panels is the "cleanest", simplest and least labor-intensive way of decorating a room. One of the main advantages of this finishing material is the relative ease of installation (even a non-professional can cope with this task).

Preparatory appraisal and settlement work

Before proceeding with the installation, you need:
- determine the direction of installation of the panels: vertically, horizontally or at a certain angle to the horizontal surface;
- calculate the number of PVC panels and finishing profiles, for this you need to evaluate the surface of the walls on which the panels will be mounted:

• squaring (needed to calculate the number of panels),
• the presence of corners, joints, openings and non-standard elements in the walls (necessary to calculate the number of finishing profiles).

For the installation of plastic panels, the following types of profiles / moldings may be needed:

Useful advice from TM Decomax: you should buy panels with a small margin, due to the fact that a certain number of panels may be cut off, and since the color of the panels may differ slightly from batch to batch, then, subsequently, you can not pick up the panel perfectly in tune with the panels already purchased.

Further, it is recommended to assess the condition of the surfaces and determine the method of fixing the panels(the panels are fixed to the surface using a special mounting edge. The fasteners should be positioned at right angles to the battens to prevent stress in the panels) :

if the surface is flat and the room is dry, the panels can be glued directly onto the walls(it should be remembered that the use of adhesives requires surface preparation - cleaning, degreasing).

• if the surface has large irregularities, deviates strongly from the vertical (horizontal) and / or high humidity in the room, then the panels are fixed on the crate, which can be of three options: wooden blocks, PVC strips, metal profiles UD and CD.

The panels are attached to the metal cladding with self-tapping screws.
For PVC sheathing - with glue or staples.
The panels can be attached to the wood sheathing in one of 4 ways: with staples using a stapler, nails, screws or glue.

Thus, for the installation of the panels, you will needmaterial:

1. panels (pcs);
2. finishing profiles (running meters);
3. depending on the type of fastening: glue, staples (must be protected with an anti-corrosion coating), small nails, screws, slats (wooden, metal, PVC) for arranging the battens 30x10mm or 30x20mm (for outdoor use), metal profile.

tool:

1. electric drill and drill;
2. hand saw with a vulcanite disc;
3. electric screwdriver or screwdriver;
4. building level;
5. plumb line;
6. square;
7. hacksaw for wood and metal;
8. scissors for metal;
9. furniture stapler (in the case of using staples);
10. hammer;
11. pliers;
12. straight rail;
13. roulette;
14. chalk, pencil;
15. ladder.

Preparatory finishing works (installation of cladding)

These works are necessary in the presence of large irregularities on the surface.

The most important stage in fixing the panels is the installation of the sheathing (lathing). It should provide a level surface. The lathing is fastened perpendicular to the direction of the panels (if the panels are installed vertically, then the slats are placed horizontally and vice versa) in increments of 40-50 cm on the wall, on the ceiling - 30-40 cm (recommended size of the slats is 30x10 cm). To do this, using a tape measure, chalk and a straight strip, the contours of the installation of the sheathing slats are applied. Further, using an electric drill, a plumb bob and a mounting level, the rails are attached to the surfaces to be faced with screws and dowels. In the case of uneven walls (ceilings), the lathing is leveled using wood, plywood, etc.

Plating slats must be placed at the beginning and at the end of the surface to be coated, as well as around openings (doors, windows, vents, etc.). In places where hanging objects are planned to be placed, an additional crate is installed, since the panel can withstand a weight of up to 1 kg. Thus, in addition to the panels, the objects are attached to the crate itself. If the panels are to be mounted at an angle to the floor, it is better to place the slats closer to each other, otherwise the short panels in the corners of the wall will be difficult to fix.

Useful advice from TMDecomax: in in rooms with high humidity, it is better to use a metal frame for the lathing; if you use wooden slats, then small cuts (channels) should be made in them to ensure air circulation.

The space that has formed between the wall and the batten can be filled with insulating material, which will increase thermal insulation and thereby reduce heating costs.

Directly mounting panels (the same for any type of fastening).

First of all, it is necessary to secure the framing accessories (mounting elements) for the special mounting edge available for each profile: (1) , internal (3) or outer corner (4) , ceiling plinth (2), if the panels cover the wall to the ceiling, and the floor plinth (6).

After the finishing profiles have been mounted, you can proceed with the installation of the panels themselves. Panels begin to be installed from the corner: it is most convenient to move from the left corner to the right or from the corner to the door or window opening.
It is recommended to first calculate the number of panels that will be required to finish the selected section of the wall / ceiling, and if the last panel turns out to be too narrow, then you can cut the first panel so that the same distance remains on both sides - this will give the interior a complete, laconic look.

The first panel is mounted in the groove of the fastening element with a narrow shelf, for this it is slightly bent, first inserted into the grooves of the initial and final strips, and then into the groove of the outer (inner) corner. Next, make sure that this first panel is ideally aligned with the corner of the surface to be trimmed (you can use a plumb line or a level) and fix the mounting edge of the panel to the rails (every 30 cm) in one of the selected ways.

After the first panel is installed and secured, the second and subsequent panels are installed in the same way. Each time, after installing a new panel, it is recommended to check its verticality and tightness to the adjacent panel.

When approaching the door (to the window), the panel is trimmed in accordance with the opening, and the trimmed ends are closed with an end molding or a starting molding.

It is recommended to reduce each last panel by 3-4 mm longitudinally. to compensate for thermal expansion between panels. First, insert the panel into the groove of the fastener, then into the groove of the previous panel. It does not need additional fastening.

If it is necessary to combine colors, then use a connecting element for joining (5) .

Useful advice from TMDecomax:

• it is not recommended to install panels at temperatures below 0 ° C;
• the panels and finishing profiles should be unpacked at a temperature not lower than 10 ° C;
• if panels and profiles were brought from the street at temperatures from 0 ° C to 10 ° C, then before unpacking they must be kept at room temperature for at least 12 hours; if the temperature was below 0 ° C, then at least 48 hours.

PVC material is great for self-assembly, so the installation of plastic slats is available to anyone who gets down to business, having previously prepared tools and materials:

* square, electric drill, drills from Pobedit, jigsaw, water level, screwdriver, stapler (brackets 10 mm or more), pliers, tape measure, hammer, CD-pen, ladder;

* dowels / studs, plastic material, starter strips, corners and connecting elements, battens and bars, ceiling and floor skirting boards, a can of liquid nails.

Plastic cladding installation process step by step

1. We make a lattice base so that it serves as a frame structure for fixing the panels. The size of the beams for the lathing is 30 * 40, 30 * 50, 50 * 50 mm, but not less than "twenty". We recommend treating the wood with an antifungal impregnation if the dampness in the room is high, and maybe even choose a galvanized profile.

Bars are fastened to concrete with dowel-nails (6 mm diameter, length from 60 mm), and to wood - with self-tapping screws. The lathing must be leveled at the time of fixing to the surface using plywood pads. The distance between the slats must be up to 500 mm. It is necessary that the slats are perpendicular to the panels and must be located at the beginning and end of the surfaces to be faced (floor-ceiling, window openings).

We make a crate for mounting panels

2. On the prepared lathing at the junction of the walls, from where the installation of the panels will begin, the starting bar is fixed with a furniture stapler \ clips \ self-tapping screws \ studs (this is a rail with a "L" - and "P" -shaped section). If the wall is taller than the length of the panel, the “H” connectors will be required.

3. Insert the first PVC panel into the groove of the profile, making sure that the connection is tight, there are no gaps between the panels. Be sure to check the level of the location of the first panel. Then we attach a wide shelf to the crate with staples.

4. Install the subsequent panels in the same way, inserting them into the fixed groove with a narrow shelf. The sequence of work is as follows: we insert it with a narrow shelf into the groove, click it, check it with a plumb line, fix the panel with a stapler on the crate. We fix the last panel in the corner profile. It is advisable to cut it so as not to wrinkle the corner strip.

5. The slots formed when joining the plastic elements are sealed with special slats with corners (there are external and internal ones, we select them in place). You can use a starter strip that looks like an English letter F in section, that is, an F-shaped one when finishing a joint with a window, a corner surface or a doorway. Bringing the plank to the floor, cover the cracks with a plinth. End strips, plinth trim will help to give the surface a finished look.

Requirements when working with PVC materials

* constant room temperature, if there is a difference, then within 20 ° C;

* installation only in the warm season, so that the environment is warmed up to at least +10 degrees, the need for "keeping" plastic materials warm before installation;

* holes are needed in the lattice sheathing, if there is a lot of humidity, for ventilation of the space;

* transverse installation (horizontally) implies that the edge on the facade should be at the bottom so that water does not flow;

* The plastic changes in length, "growing" by one tenth of a percent with every ten degrees, leave gaps.

Pros and cons of using PVC panels

Many colors, ease of installation, good sound and heat insulation are the advantages of the material. And the disadvantages include the fire hazard of PVC and the need to disassemble the entire coating if one element is damaged.

Video - installation of plastic panels

Wall cladding with MDF panels is an affordable and easy way to decorate residential premises.

The finishing material has a decent attractive appearance, has excellent heat and sound insulation properties, and the installation of MDF panels with your own hands is not very difficult.

Interior wall decoration with MDF panels is carried out by two main methods: on the lathing and directly on the wall surface. The preference for one or another finishing option is based on the condition of the walls in the room and the conditions of its operation.

Wireframe method

The essence of the method consists in fixing MDF finishing boards on a pre-built crate. It is used in several cases:

• the surface of the wall is uneven and there is no way to eliminate the defect;
• the room needs heat or sound insulation;
• there is a need to hide engineering communications - wiring, for example, located on the walls.

Finishing materials

The frame method allows the installation of MDF panels on the wall of any form factor - slats, wall panels and decorative sheets. And the appearance of the slab, and the thickness of the panel, and the quality are determined not by the installation method, but by the functionality of the room.

1. Form Factor

Rack material is most often used, since, thanks to the groove-comb joint, its installation is simple and does not take much time.

Sheathing with tiled and sheet panels is more difficult, since it is associated with the need to observe a certain pattern.

1. Thickness.

Plates are produced with a thickness of 6 mm for rack and pinion, and from 3 mm for sheet products. For wall decoration in rooms with difficult operating conditions, it is recommended to choose MDF panels of maximum thickness.

1. Moisture resistance.

Moisture resistant MDF panels are used for finishing the bathroom, toilet and kitchen.

Tools and supplies

• MDF boards - rack, panel, sheet.
• Universal corner made of fiberboard - used when decorating corners.
• - if work on thermal insulation is being carried out.
• Perforator, jigsaw, knife.
• Square and usually nylon thread.
• "Liquid nails" or other wood glue.
• Self-tapping screws for wood - from 40 to 80 mm, plastic dowels or plugs - for fastening the battens.
• Nails, clamps with a tongue of the desired height, glue - depending on the selected method of panel installation.

Preparatory stage

1. Since during the installation of MDF panels on a metal frame or wooden crate is not performed, its preparation comes down to cleaning it from dust and dirt. However, if large cracks are observed on the wall, they should be repaired.
2. The wiring is retracted into the pipes from the corrugation.
3. With a general high level of humidity in the apartment, it is recommended to treat the surface with an antiseptic primer.

The coefficient of thermal expansion of MDF products is low, but the moisture resistance is low, therefore, the material should be kept indoors for 2-3 days in order to equalize the humidity of the plate and air.

With a small sheet thickness - 3–6 mm, this stage can be neglected, with a large - 16–20 mm, exposure is necessary.

Manufacturing and installation of lathing

The frame is made of wooden blocks with a section of 20 × 40 mm, or a galvanized profile. Both solutions have their advantages

Wooden lathing is much easier to install, does not require a large amount of hardware, and is characterized by the ability to absorb and release moisture at a level close to MDF boards.

In this case, the material requires additional treatment with antiseptic agents and does not exclude the possibility of destruction by moisture.

The metal frame is characterized by high durability and resistance to moisture.

Mounting of MDF panels on a metal profile provides rigid fastening, which prevents panels from lengthening. In rooms with noticeable changes in temperature and humidity, for example, on a loggia, this leads to warping of the finish.

Since, with the exception of special moisture-resistant ones, they also do not differ in resistance to moisture, you should not build a frame that is more durable than the sheathing itself.

Installation of battens for MDF panels: detailed instructions

Rack lamellas can be arranged horizontally, vertically or diagonally. A pattern can be formed from square panels. In any case, the installation directions of the battens and MDF panels must be perpendicular to each other.

The diagonal method of laying the panels is more material-intensive.

Most often, vertical installation of finishes is used, since it provides a minimum of waste.

1. The most convex place is determined on the surface of the wall - its height is the control point.

The frame rail passes through the top of the bulge necessarily.

1. The recommended step is 40–60 cm. If the sheet size is large, the step can be increased.

The possibility of increasing is checked as follows: if the panel bends slightly when pressed by hand between the slats, then the change is permissible.

1. The wall is marked with a pencil.

In this case, it is advisable to place the lower plank as close to the floor as possible: the plinth is attached to it.

1. The rail is installed first at the most convex place.

The block is placed on the marked line, a hole is drilled in the wall with a puncher through the bar. The depth of the hole is calculated in such a way that the self-tapping screw is in the main wall by at least 30–40 mm. The fixing step is at least 60 cm.

1. First of all, the rail is fixed at the top of the bulge - close to the wall, and then from the opposite end, previously set in level.
2. To check the plane of the bar from one end to the other end of the wall, a thread is pulled and fixed on self-tapping screws in level, a match is placed between the cap and the thread.

Correction of the rail attachment is carried out using wedges, the thickness of which is determined by the deviation of the attachment depth in comparison with the reference point.

1. Blanks for wedges are cut from a lath and trimmed with a knife in the course of work.

Pieces of plywood are allowed.

1. The second rail, usually a lower one, is installed in the same way: the ends are fixed in level, and the rest of the fastening is adjusted along the thread.
2. The following elements of the frame are mounted as follows: the rule is applied to the fixed rails, and the next bar is set in the plane with the first two.

It is prohibited to attach any objects to the MDF panel. However, it is quite possible to hang a mirror in the hallway if the installation of MDF wall panels is carried out on the frame.

Wall cladding with MDF panels

The cladding is started after the construction of the frame.

Mounting methods:

• Stick it on.

The adhesive composition is applied to the panel in the areas of fixation to the battens. Suitable for thin slabs;

• Mechanical fastening with staples, nails or self-tapping screws.

Provides a secure fit, but does not compensate for thermal elongation. The method is recommended for rooms with stable temperature and humidity indicators;

• Fastening with clamps.

The clip is put on the edge of the panel, and is attached to the lathing with nails. This is the most recommended option.

Installation sequence

1. Slatted slats and universal corners are cut to length using a jigsaw or a hacksaw. The edges are sanded.
2. Installation can be started from any corner of the room.

1. The first lamella is fixed in such a way that the edge with the ridge is directed towards the corner, and the gap between the wall and the sheathing board is 2–3 mm.

From the side of the ridge, the lamella is fixed with self-tapping screws to the slats, and from the side of the groove, a clamp is put on the edge and fastened. Fasteners when docked are hidden by the ridge of the next element.

The next panels are inserted with a comb into the groove of the previous one and fixed with clamps.

1. The last panel usually needs a fit.

The slab is tried on, the required width is determined, an extra fragment is cut off. Then the element is inserted, and in the corner it is also fixed with self-tapping screws.

1. The corners and top edge are trimmed with a universal corner.

Design of sockets and switches

When decorating walls with MDF panels in such areas, it is necessary:

• try on the panel and mark the location of the outlet;
• cut a hole of the appropriate diameter;
• fix two bars in parallel on the wall so that the future socket can be installed on them;
• fix the MDF board to the lathing.

Frameless method: do-it-yourself plating

The method is implemented when the walls of the room have a flat surface, or if one of the tasks of the repair is their careful alignment. Any products made of MDF can be used, but more often by this method

Preparation

Before proceeding with the installation of MDF panels on glue, the surface is cleaned and primed. The most commonly used primer with an antiseptic effect.

Rack lamellas are cut to the desired height, a corner is also cut off, the edges are processed with sandpaper. Square panels are adjusted after fitting.

Used adhesives

The adhesive must meet two requirements:

• After drying, retain some plasticity in order to absorb the thermal expansion of the material.
• Possess a dense structure that would allow applying the glue in both a thin and thick layer. This property makes it possible to properly attach the panel even in cases where the wall surface is curved.

Most often, "Liquid nails" and "Moment montage" are used, but there may be other options - "MiterFix", "Moment Crystal".

Installation of cladding: sequence of actions

1. It is recommended to start the cladding from the corner towards the window opening.
2. On the wall, horizontal and vertical markings are made according to the dimensions of the panels.
3. Glue is applied to the back of the board in zigzag stripes.
4. The panel is easily pressed against the wall and immediately removed.

After 2–5 minutes, it is fixed tightly. Thus, a more durable connection is achieved. The first lamella must be checked with a vertical level.

1. Plates are laid end-to-end or overlapped.
2. In the areas where the installation of sockets and switches is planned, holes are preliminarily made in the panel.
3. The corners and the upper edge are sealed with a universal corner, the lower one - with a plinth.

Finishing nuances: processing joints and corners

A universal corner is used for finishing the corners. It consists of two plates made of chipboard and connected on the front side with a film.

The stripes can bend both inward and outward, which allows the element to be used to decorate any corners.

1. The corner is cut to the required length. Docking, if the top edge is decorated, is done at an angle of 45 degrees.
2. Landing on glue is recommended in two stages: light pressing so that the composition is distributed both over the facing and on the surface of the corner, and then firm with pressure.
3. The remnants of the glue, if they do appear, are cut off with a painting knife after it has completely solidified. They are difficult to remove with a cleaning agent or solvent.

In the same way, the finishing of the joints is carried out, if such a need arose. However, in this case, it is necessary to carefully select the element by color.

Finishing MDF with plates does not apply to works of a high level of complexity and requires not so much experience as thoroughness of execution.

From the point of view of aesthetics, it is not recommended to finish with slabs both the ceiling and the walls of the room. Styles that suggest such a solution are not implemented in city apartments. But for a balcony or loggia, this is a perfectly acceptable option.