The passage of a brick pipe through the ceiling. How to install the most fire hazardous section of the chimney: the passage unit. Fire safety regulations and rules

The correct ceiling cut for the chimney is a guarantee of the safety and longevity of your bath. In such a matter as fire safety, it is better to overdo it with safety measures than to underdo something. Hardly anyone will argue with this. Therefore, we study the recommendations of the fire service and make the passage of the chimney through the ceiling of the bath in accordance with all the rules.

For the pipe in the bath, you need to make a special node for the passage through the ceiling. This is a device that ensures safe distances from the outer surface of the pipe to the ceiling materials. They are regulated by SNiP 2.04.05-91. The recommendations are as follows (paragraph 3.83):

• from the outer surfaces of brick and concrete pipes to combustible rafters and battens - at least 130 mm;
• from ceramic pipes without insulation - at least 250 mm, from them with thermal insulation - 130 mm.

These figures must be taken into account when installing floor beams. Their step is usually taken small - about 60 cm. With this step, the recommended distances will be maintained only when using pipes with insulation. For example, sandwiches.

The diameter of the furnace outlet is most often 115-120 mm. If you use a sandwich with an insulation thickness of 100 mm when passing through the floor, the outer diameter will be 315-320 mm. There must be a distance of at least 130 mm on all sides. It turns out that in this case the distance between adjacent beams should be 130 mm * 2 + 315 mm = 575 mm. We just fall into the gap of 60 cm.

There are a lot of sandwiches on the market with insulation thicknesses of 35, 40, 45 and 50 mm. You can find a layer of 100 mm mainly in stores specializing in sauna stoves. Only in sauna chimneys there are temperatures from which a 100 mm layer of mineral wool must be protected. Can a 50mm layer be used? You can, but if you want to take a steam bath, take 100 mm - it is safer.

We calculate the minimum distance for chimneys without insulation. In this case, with an inner diameter of 115 mm, the safe distance from the outer edge of the pipe to combustible materials is 250 mm. The distance between the beams in this case should be 250 mm * 2 + 115 mm = 615 mm. Let it be a little, but it does not go away. But this calculation is for not the largest diameter of the smoke channel. There are many more. In any case, if the ceiling has not yet been made, calculate the step of installing the beams taking this factor into account.

At the same time, compulsory appendix 16 contains recommendations for deviation (distance from the outer surface of the pipe to combustible materials):

• for a fire-protected partition:
  • with a pipe thickness of 120 mm - 200-260 mm;
  • with a pipe thickness of 65 mm - 380 mm.
• for an unprotected partition:
  • with a pipe thickness of 120 mm - 260-320 mm;
  • with a pipe thickness of 65 mm - 320-500 mm.

This appendix is ​​about wall retreat. After all, very often chimneys pass near the walls. And their material also needs protection: the temperature of the flue gases at the exit from the furnace can reach 500 ° C. If timber walls are unprotected, they will char and then burst into flames. Therefore, a layer of thermal insulation is laid on the walls (cardboard made of mineral wool is suitable), and a sheet of polished stainless steel is stuffed on top.

Ceiling pass-through types

When crossing the ceiling, it is necessary to protect the materials of the "pie" from the heat, and also somehow fix the pipe in a certain position. This task is handled by the ceiling cut or, as it is also called, the "passage node".

Pass-through units are of industrial production. They represent a box made of metal or minerite, to which a stainless or galvanized steel plate is attached to one side. A hole is made in the middle of this knot for the sandwich to be inserted. The plate on the side of the room covers the hole in the ceiling, decorating it. It also serves as a support for a heat insulator, which is used to fill the gap between the pipe and the floor beams for better thermal insulation.

There is no disagreement as to what material to use the penetrations in the bath: only stainless steel. The fact is that at temperatures that are typical for steam rooms, galvanizing does not release the most useful substances. Therefore, there is only one option: stainless steel.

Everything is mounted simply. If the ceiling was made without taking into account the passage of the pipe, a square hole is cut in the right place (between the beams), which is 1-2 cm less than the size of the decorative panel. Beams and boards are covered with a layer of heat insulator. If so, you can nail strips of minerite, basalt or asbestos-cement board (asbestos is harmful, so only use it as a last resort), just a strip of rock wool insulation. In some cases, lining of the insulation with metal strips is required (when it is needed, see below).

When installing the pipe on the oven, the device is put on a straight section that will cross the overlap. The passage assembly simply rises to the desired level. A strip of heat insulator is placed under its edges, which touch the ceiling boards, then everything is fixed with self-tapping screws. In many units, manufacturers even make perforations for self-tapping screws, so even this is not a problem.

The configuration of these products varies. Sometimes a metal cylinder is made around the pipe hole. At the same time, the edges of the decorative plate protrude significantly beyond this cylinder. When installing a pass-through assembly of this type, the hole is still cut in a square shape. A circle is also possible, but there should be a distance of at least 130 mm from the pipe to its edge if the pipe is insulated, and 250 mm if it is without insulation. With this option, pay attention: the size of the plate should be enough to mask the hole. In addition, with this form of passage through the ceiling, it is imperative to protect the flooring wood not only with heat insulators, but also to cover it with metal strips.

There are passage nodes in which there is no cylinder around the pipe, but outer sides are made along the perimeter. They are made of metal, and can also be made of minerite. If the sides are made of metal, the edges of the cutout in the ceiling must be covered with a heat insulator (for example, basalt cardboard or the same minerite). If the sides are made of minerite, then they are in themselves a good heat insulator. So additional thermal insulation of the edges of the cutout is not necessary (but you can play it safe).

Ceiling Passage Rules

When planning the size of the chimney, consider a few rules:

Which heat insulator to use

After the device is fixed to the ceiling, they rise to the attic or the second floor, and fill the gap between the outer wall of the pipe and the beams with a heat insulator.

Basalt wool can be used as thermal insulation. But be sure to check that the operating temperature range must be greater than 600 ° C.

Some people think this is not the best option. Firstly, in production, resins are used as a binder, which, when heated, release formaldehyde. Secondly, condensate runs through the pipe from time to time. And mineral wool (and basalt too), when wet, lose their heat-shielding properties. And when they dry, they are restored only partially. So the option is really not the best one.

They also cover the penetration with expanded clay of medium and fine fractions. It is a natural material with a relatively low weight. Even if it gets wet, then it dries up and restores its properties. When wet, the thermal conductivity increases slightly, and it is already worse in expanded clay than in mineral wool.

Previously, sand was often used. The option is not bad in all respects, except for one detail: it gradually wakes up through the cracks. Refilling your sandbox is easy, but the constant sand on the stove is annoying.

If we talk about natural heat insulators, then you can use clay. It is diluted to a pasty state and the entire gap is covered. Sometimes expanded clay is used as a filler.

Here is a review on the use of clay in the passage of a bath pipe:

“Cutting clay rules! I dismantled the chimney in my bathhouse. Rather, I took apart what was left: there was a lot of snow, and during the descent it blew off the entire top for me. Once the top is changed, then you need to look at the bottom: the pipe has already been standing for 7 years. So that's it. Inside there is zero burnout, there is no burnout of the pipe either. Condition - as soon as delivered. My penetration is upholstered around the perimeter with basalt wool, and then everything is covered with clay. This is definitely the best option. "

Not everyone is advised to use heaters in the pass-through unit. It is believed that it is better to leave the gap unfilled: this way it will be possible to avoid overheating and burning out of this section of the pipe - it will cool down better by blowing air. It may be so, but the radiation from a heated pipe will dry out nearby wood, and in this case, the spontaneous combustion temperature is significantly reduced - to + 50 ° C.

There are several ways to avoid overheating. The first, and most rational, is to use the heat that flies into the pipe and heats it to extreme temperatures for their own needs. There are three options:

1. Make a water jacket on a metal chimney, and use hot water for a shower or heating. The system is not so simple, a remote tank is also required, as well as piping, cold water supply, etc. But temperatures above the water jacket will be far from so high, the pipe will not burn out.
2. Heat water too, but easier: put a samovar-type tank. Also hot water is provided, the chimney does not overheat and is protected. But there are some nuances: do not allow boiling, drain the heated one in time, add cold. And it is not very convenient to do this, since the tank is located too high: above the stove on a pipe.
3. Adjust the stone net. The water will have to be heated in a different way, but the plus here is the following: after the end of the procedure, the stones dry the bath. Here, too, difficulties may arise: the weight of the stones is considerable, it is hardly possible to do without support, unless you use the factory version (on the right in the figure). In a homemade version, you will need a structure to redistribute the mass.

By using any of these methods, the pipe temperatures in the ceiling passage are significantly reduced. The likelihood of burnout becomes very small. This is not all. There is a way - just cool with air. To do this, another, larger diameter is put on the heat-insulated pipe. A lattice is made from below and from above through which air enters / exits. For a steam room, this is not an option - it will draw out all the steam, but for a washing room, you can use it. The method is especially good in the attic and when passing through the roof.

Homemade ceiling cuts

You can run the chimney through the ceiling in the bath without using factory assemblies. You will need:

As you can see, do-it-yourself ceiling splitting is easy. This is the easiest, but quite reliable option. Another option is presented in the video. The work is more complicated, but if you have the appropriate skills, this option for the passage of the pipe through the ceiling is also done by hand.

The organization of the correct passage of the chimney through the ceiling is a very important construction operation in the event that a private house, a bathhouse or any other building is being built. This is mainly due to certain fire safety standards that must be observed in the course of these measures: the reason for many fires lies precisely in the violation of these rules during the installation of the chimney.

Fundamental rules

When laying the chimney through the structure of the ceiling and roof, it is required to take into account the rules and regulations of fire safety, according to SNiP 2.04.05-91. A pipe in a private house and a bath must be equipped with a special pass-through unit.

The rules have the following basic provisions:

1. The distance between the rafters made of combustible material and a pipe made of brick or concrete is set at a level of 13 or more centimeters.
2. The distance between the uninsulated ceramic pipe and the combustible rafters must be at least 25 cm.In the presence of thermal insulation, this figure is reduced to 13 cm.

These rules are mandatory during the installation of beams, the step of which is usually at the level of 60 cm. To obtain the required distance between the chimney structure and the ceiling with this step, it will be necessary to use exclusively insulated pipes. An excellent option in this case is a special sandwich pipe, the structure of which includes several layers, including an insulating one. Typically, the furnace outlet pipes have a cross section of 115-120 cm. If the thickness of the insulating layer of a sandwich pipe is 10 cm, the total diameter reaches 315-320 mm, and the distance is 130 mm.

In baths, pipes are usually used, where the thickness of the insulating layer usually reaches 10 cm. In some cases, this indicator can be reduced to 5 cm, although experts do not recommend doing this. The most common type of sandwich pipes are products with a thickness of an insulating layer of 35-50 mm: options with 100 mm thermal insulation are usually found in specialized points of sale focused on equipment for baths. For chimneys without insulation, the minimum distance to combustible material is set at 250 mm.

Standards of indents from pipes to walls

According to Appendix 16 of SNiP, certain distances between the chimney and the combustible material are mandatory:

• For sandwich pipes with a thickness of 120 mm, the distance to the partition equipped with a fire protection should be at the level of 200-260 mm. If such protection is not available, the distance increases to 260-320 mm.
• For sandwich pipes with a thickness of 65 mm, the minimum distance to a non-combustible partition is set at 380 mm, to a combustible one - 320-500 mm.

In this appendix, the norms for the distances between pipes and walls are indicated. In this case, the walls must be made of fire-resistant materials: this implies additional measures to isolate them, along with the ceiling. This is done with mineral wool or galvanized sheet steel covering the top of the insulation.

What are the pass-through nodes in the ceiling

Special attention is paid to the fact that the ceiling is reliably protected from fires. In this case, a means of protection is used to cut the ceiling, called a passage knot. The passage of the pipe through the ceiling can be done by hand, another option is to use a ready-made structure (more: ""). Industrial products are metal boxes equipped with stainless plates (sometimes stainless steel is replaced with galvanized steel). The central part of such a box is equipped with a passage for a sandwich pipe.

Support-forming functions are also assigned to such structures for the heat-insulating layer, which is used to fill the gap between the chimney and the ceiling beams. At the same time, it is important to remember that only stainless steel can act as a material for the passage units in the baths. Galvanizing is prohibited because when the temperature rises, which is common for steam rooms, it begins to release substances harmful to humans.

Cutting the chimney on the ceiling is usually straightforward. First of all, a square opening is cut out in a certain place on the ceiling - it must necessarily be between the beams. The sides of this square are made 1-2 cm smaller than the dimensions of the decorative panel of the pass-through unit. This is followed by the mandatory insulation of beams and boards. In some cases, the insulation is knocked out using metal strips. Installation of a chimney in a private dwelling, the product must be fixed in the area where the sandwich pipe will pass through the ceiling. After that, the mounted cut is raised to the required level. The final stage of this operation is the design of the edges with thermal insulation, followed by fixing the finished structure using self-tapping screws.

Pass-through assemblies from different manufacturers may have different shapes. In some models, the chimney holes are equipped with a metal cylinder, where the decorative element at the edges can protrude beyond its limits. Sometimes the knots have outer edges that surround the hole. Similar structures are made from various materials - metal, minerite, etc. Metal sides have to be additionally covered with thermal insulation. Minerite, unlike metal, itself has good thermal insulation characteristics.

How to choose a thermal insulation material for a chimney

In the modern construction market, there is a fairly wide variety of thermal insulation materials with different technical characteristics and cost.

Most often, the ceiling passage for the pipe in the bath is insulated using the following materials:

• Basalt or mineral wool... A very popular option for equipping a sandwich pipe: such heaters can easily withstand heating up to +600 degrees. However, it is important to remember that basalt and mineral wool contains components harmful to humans - formaldehydes, which begin to be released as the material heats up. In addition, both heaters have a very low degree of resistance to moisture: any wetting leads to the loss of their protective qualities. It is also important to understand that cotton wool tends to gradually cake, which leads to a deterioration in its thermal insulation qualities. Read also: "".
• Expanded clay... Has a high level of thermal insulation properties. In the case of condensation, leading to wetting of the material, its performance is restored rather quickly. In this respect, expanded clay is much superior to mineral wool. However, the arrangement of thermal insulation protection of the passages from it will require the use of special containers.
• Minerite... Consists of cement, cellulose and all kinds of mineral additives. Minerite protection is able to comfortably tolerate heating up to + 600 degrees. Its wetting does not in any way affect the insulating characteristics, while heating is not accompanied by the release of toxins harmful to health.
• Asbestos... With fairly good thermal insulation performance, this material has one significant drawback - the release of carcinogens when heated. The use of asbestos is only permitted in extreme situations.
• Clay, sand... The most ancient thermal insulation materials. Although they are inferior to their modern counterparts in terms of thermal insulation performance, most homeowners use clay and sand due to their naturalness and complete harmlessness.

The list of rules according to which the passage of a sandwich pipe through the ceiling is organized

The development of a project for future installation activities is carried out taking into account the dimensions of the chimney.

There are some rules for this:

1. When organizing a chimney in a bath, the pipe leaving the furnace must necessarily have a significant wall thickness, with an insulating layer included in the structure (for more details: ""). It must be at least 1 meter high. It is recommended to use stainless steel for manufacturing, due to its greater heat resistance compared to galvanized steel. Further, after this meter section, you can apply a sandwich pipe.
2. Insulation of the pipe in the ceiling of the bath is a must. At the same time, it is strictly forbidden to join pipes at the section of passage through the ceiling (read: "").
3. The length of the horizontal sections has a direct impact on the draft and other technical parameters of the chimney. The longer such segments are, the weaker the thrust in the system. It is recommended not to use horizontal sections longer than one meter.
4. Elbows also contribute to a decrease in the performance of the chimney system. The recommended number of them in one chimney is no more than three.
5. The pipe in the section of passage through the shelf ceiling should not be rigidly fixed. The fastening must be such that it does not restrain the linear expansion of the heated pipe.

The list of measures for the organization of the ceiling cutting in the bath

How to make the passage of the pipe through the ceiling of the bath? The main goals when organizing the passage of a sandwich pipe through the ceiling is to create fire insulation and an optimal chimney design.

To equip a ceiling cut in a bath room, you will first need to determine and prepare a section on the ceiling through which the chimney will pass. Next, the installation and subsequent isolation of the protection unit is carried out.

Preparation of a site for a ceiling cut

First, the central point through which the chimney will pass is determined: this is done using a plumb line. After marking in a certain area, marking is carried out and an opening is cut out, which is subsequently decorated from the side of the steam room. Most often, a sheet of stainless or galvanized steel is used for this.

When preparing a site for a chimney, you should take into account the following recommendations:

• Vertical installation of a sandwich pipe begins with marking at the top point, followed by a transition to the bottom. Simply put, first mark the roof. The center of the opening is determined using a plumb line.
• If a ready-made assembly is used, it is important to first devote time to a thorough study of the instructions indicating the installation features of this particular model of cutting for the ceiling.
• The passage for the pipe in the ceiling of the bath is made of stainless steel sheet. In this case, the sheet is equipped with a hole 1-2 mm larger than the dimensions of the sandwich pipe.

It is best to lay the dimensions and location of the stove and chimney in the bath project. This will make it possible to carry out a preliminary calculation of the installation of beam structures, observing the most optimal step between them. If the chimney is installed in an existing building, then the structure of the ceiling above the stove often undergoes structural changes. This consists in cutting out a part of the beam adjacent to the chimney, followed by the installation of special jumpers.

How to install a ready-made pass-through node

How to make a pipe passage in a bath? The pass-through units presented today on sale can be in the form of a circle or a rectangle.

The installation of these structures is carried out in several steps:

1. The first step is to insulate the ends of the ceiling opening.
2. Further, the same procedure is performed over the bottom sheet in the passage box and all the places adjacent to the ceiling. Insulation is carried out with foil-clad basalt cardboard or minerite.
3. A pipe is passed through the passage node, followed by finishing the product to the equipped ceiling opening. To fix the structure, special self-tapping screws are used: usually the finished units already have holes for them.
4. The cross-section of the passage unit must exceed the cross-section of the chimney. It is better to avoid a tight fit between the pipe and the bushing: the recommended gap between their walls is within 5 or more millimeters. If necessary, it can be caulked with a special asbestos cord.
5. The next step is insulation from the attic side. After that, the box can be filled with the selected thermal insulation material.
6. At the end of the pipe wiring, the edges of the opening are trimmed with decorative material.

Installation of a passage in two-story buildings

If we are talking about a two-story building, then upon completion of the registration of the transition on the first floor, they move to the second. How to pass a pipe in a bath through the ceiling in this case?

This procedure can be broken down into the following steps:

1. Most often, there is a relaxation room on the second floor of the bathhouse. In addition, a sandwich pipe can be laid in an ordinary private house. This chimney design provides for a transition from a sandwich pipe to a pipe with one wall. This will enable the heat from the chimney to heat the second floor. Such a transition is made one meter from the floor surface on the second floor.
2. When the chimney passes into the attic, it again turns into a sandwich pipe.
3. The installation of the attic unit completely repeats the procedure with the description of how the pipe in the bath passes through the ceiling. It is better to refrain from sealing the joints with ordinary construction silicone. For such operations, a special sealant is available for sale.
4. When the chimney passes the waterproofing and the roof, thermal insulation and waterproofing are necessarily organized. This is done using homemade protective aprons and heat-resistant sealant.

Laying waterproofing after the chimney exits to the roof will prevent moisture from entering the attic, followed by flowing down the pipe. The passage of a sandwich pipe through the roof is also carried out in compliance with the SNiP regulations.

Many people prefer to run the pipe through the roof of the bathhouse. This design is the most reliable and durable. For the manufacture of a chimney, you can use a variety of materials. For example, you can use sandwich pipes or build a brick chimney. Before installing the structure, you need to make a hole suitable in diameter and waterproof the chimney.

The pipe in the bath through the ceiling and roof: types of chimneys and design features

If you decide to install a pipe on the ceiling with your own hands, you need to choose a suitable chimney design. The pipe can be external or internal. The external chimney is less fire hazardous and easy to install. The internal location of the chimney allows more heat to be stored.

When choosing a pipe, you need to take into account a number of nuances:

1. The pipe must be made of galvanized metal, ceramic or brick. The use of aluminum pipes is prohibited.
2. It is best to make pipe insulation from non-combustible materials. Expanded clay or stone wool is perfect.
3. Only foil materials should be used as heat-insulating materials. Foil-clad aluminum works best.
4. If you are using a sandwich pipe, then you need to fill it with basalt wool.

Mark the ceiling surface before installing the pipe. Remember that the chimney must not come into contact with the roofing materials, as it can damage them. In order to avoid damage to the roofing materials, a metal casing must be installed.

Sandwich pipe in the bath in the ceiling

If you are a beginner, it is better to install a "sandwich" pipe in the ceiling. It is easy enough to install and fireproof. Sandwich pipes are usually made of several metal layers, between which some kind of fire-resistant compound is installed.

Assembling a sandwich pipe is easy enough. The assembly begins with attaching the product to the branch pipe. A starter cone must be used for fixation. One end of the starting cone is put on the branch pipe, and the other is mounted on a straight section of the chimney.

The sandwich pipe is cut in the following order:

• Install the assembly on the roof. It is needed to firmly fix the pipe.
• Punch a hole in the ceiling. Remember that its diameter must be 15 centimeters larger than the diameter of the sandwich pipe.
• Fill the space between the larger diameter pipes and the sandwich pipe with sand or expanded clay.
• If you do not want to use a pipe with a larger diameter, you need to install a box through which the sandwich pipe will pass. The free space in the box also needs to be filled with expanded clay, sand or basalt wool.

How to make a brick pipe in a bath through a wooden ceiling

A chimney made of bricks is the most reliable design. Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, you need to design a chimney. During the design, you should pay attention to the features of the stove, which is installed in the bath. Also take into account that it is impractical to install a massive brick chimney in small baths.

It is best to assemble the chimney on the ground, as it will be extremely difficult to do this on the roof. To raise the chimney on the roof, you can use hinges, spears or braces. Clamps must be used as fixing material for the chimney.

Roof chimney installation technology:

1. Make a hole for the pipe. The diameter for the passage should be 20 centimeters larger than the diameter of the pipe itself.
2. Then you need to bring the product out through the roof.
3. Insulate the nipple with a metal sheet.
4. Seal the structure by inserting the edge of the sheet under the roof.
5. Attach a metal umbrella to the chimney. It will protect the structure from moisture.
6. Apply heat resistant paint to the chimney. It will protect the metal parts of the structure from corrosion.

Cutting a pipe on a low ceiling of a bath: rules and regulations

If you decide to remove the pipe yourself, you need to adhere to a number of rules regulated in SNiP. First of all, you need to take care of installing a special passage assembly. There should be a distance of 130-150 millimeters from the outer surface of the pipe to the sheathing and rafters. If you use ceramic pipes without insulating materials, then the distance between the chimney and the rafters should be at least 260-270 millimeters.

When choosing pass-through units, keep in mind that you need to use only those products that are made of metal. Also, a stainless steel plate must be installed on the pass-through assembly. The pipe penetrations must also be made exclusively of stainless steel.

When cutting a pipe, you also need to take into account a number of nuances:

• In places where floors intersect, there should be no joints. Consider this nuance when designing sections.
• Use non-flammable materials or factory-made sandwiches to insulate the pipe.
• It is forbidden to rigidly fasten the pipe to the ceiling, since the material of the chimney can expand under the influence of high temperatures.

How to properly remove a pipe from a bath through a high ceiling

To properly install the structure, you need to prepare the holes for the chimney. It is recommended to sheathe them with metal sheets. The thickness of the sheet must be at least 0.5 millimeters. The holes must be square.

It is very important to correctly assemble the protective box. To assemble the adapter, you need to use 4 metal sheets measuring 50 * 50 centimeters. In the middle of one of the sheets, you need to cut a hole for the pipe. Metal sheets are connected to each other by welding.

Subsequent installation is carried out in the following order:

1. Insulate the box with basalt and sheathe it with metal foil material.
2. Install the first pipe segment. It must be attached to the stove using metal fasteners.
3. Then install the second link.
4. Fill the box with expanded clay.
5. Lock subsequent segments.
6. After you assemble the pipe, install the metal umbrella.

Installing a pipe in a bath through the ceiling (video)

Pulling a pipe through the ceiling is a snap. The main thing is to choose the right insulating materials and install the box correctly. Use only non-combustible materials to assemble the structure. At the design stage of the structure, take into account all the nuances of the furnace and the roof. Remember that the chimney must be insulated with a casing. Otherwise, the roofing materials may catch fire.

Conclusion of the pipe in the bath through the ceiling (photo)

Correct routing of the chimney through the attic floor, rafter system and roof is no less important than compliance with all other requirements when building the furnace itself. The fire safety of the house, and therefore of everyone living in it, as well as the efficiency of the heating device, will depend on how reliably these units are equipped.

The passage of the chimney through the wooden floor must be especially reliable, since in this area the heated pipe walls are in close proximity to combustible materials. In order to secure the floor elements, various thermal insulation materials and special devices can be used - there is no shortage of them on the market today.

The performance of such work must be treated with the utmost responsibility. Therefore, in order to understand these issues, you should familiarize yourself with the current requirements of regulatory documents, consider the process of conducting a chimney through the ceiling in order to perform everything strictly according to the rules established by regulatory organizations.

What building codes and regulations (SNiP) say about this

SNiP 41-01-2003 "Ventilation, air conditioning and heating" regulates the main aspects related to the arrangement of various autonomous heating systems. Since this publication is devoted to the analysis of the design features of the passage of the chimney through the attic floor, it is necessary to pay special attention to section 6.6 - this is "Stove heating", and its subsections.

In some cases, these existing rules become a real problem for owners of private houses when they equip their home heating system. Such difficulties arise due to the fact that some of the requirements for modern heating systems and materials used for thermal insulation are clearly outdated. However, despite possible obvious contradictions, controlling organizations rely on this guidance and require compliance with established standards.

It should be remembered that if the stove is installed in a newly built house, then it will be necessary to legalize its presence in the fire services, otherwise it will simply not be possible to register the property. Such a permit is issued on the basis of an act drawn up by an employee of the controlling organization, which carries out the acceptance of the building. If, during the inspection, serious violations of the current norms are found, then there is no escape - you will have to correct the mistakes made. Therefore, it is best not to immediately deliberately deviate from the established standards.

Not everyone loves the dry language of regulatory documents, and therefore they are simply afraid to look into them. Let's try to outline these rules for them in a few paragraphs:

• The thickness of the walls of a brick chimney in the area of ​​its passage through ceilings, roofs or walls (partitions) must be greater than along the main height. This thickening is called cutting.

According to existing standards, the thickness of the groove is considered taking into account the thickness of the pipe itself. Craftsmen often use the colloquial term "from smoke" in this regard. So, the standard size of the cut is:

- 500 mm, if the pipe is adjacent to a building structure made of combustible material (which, of course, includes a wooden floor).

- 380 mm - for those cases when the materials of the building structure are protected from fire by a layer of plaster of at least 25 mm with reinforcement with a steel mesh, or a metal sheet with an asbestos gasket below it with a thickness of at least 8 mm.

• The height of the chimney cut must be at least 70 mm greater than the ceiling thickness. By the way, SNiP does not specify from which side these millimeters should "look out" - from below, on the ceiling, or in the attic. Judging by the forums, there is no unanimity among the masters either. But, as a rule, customers ask for a flat ceiling in the room, so a 70 mm step can be located in the attic. However, if you again read the forums, you can find cases when fire inspectors demanded a 70-mm "side" both above and below. And it was not possible to convince them otherwise.
• It is undesirable to rigidly fix the chimney cutting to the floor materials or to rely on any building structures. True, there is no categorical prohibition on this score, but nevertheless one should adhere to such a recommendation that the deformation of one element that happened for some reason does not entail destruction of the other.
• The space between the groove and the building structure is filled with non-combustible materials. The list of materials is not specified, but in practice they usually use those that can be attributed to the category of thermal insulators - expanded clay, vermiculite, mineral wool.
• If the cutting of the pipe falls on the opening of a wall or partition and combustible materials, then its thickness cannot be less than the thickness of the partition itself. In this case, the cutting should be performed along the entire height of the wall.
• When the pipe passes through the roofing, cutting is also often performed, which in this place is called "otter". In any case, the distance from the outer walls to any elements of the roofing structure made of combustible materials must be at least 130 mm for a brick pipe, and 250 mm for a ceramic pipe without thermal insulation (when using insulation with a heat transfer resistance of at least 0.3 m2 × ºС / W - 130 mm). The roof section at the passageway should only be made of non-combustible material.
• When erecting a stove and its chimney, it is important to observe the distance to walls and partitions. This gap has its own name - retreat. The amount of deviation is also regulated by the requirements of SNiP:

The surface will be considered protected from fire if the requirements mentioned above are met - plaster of the required thickness or an asbestos-metal "cake". In this case, the dimensions of the section on which such protection is made must be greater than the dimensions of the furnace or chimney by at least 150 mm on each side.

These requirements are optional only for partitions made of materials with a fire resistance rating of REI 60 and above (preservation of load-bearing capacity, integrity and thermal insulation qualities with a 60-minute direct exposure to fire) and zero flame spread.

• When installing factory-made metal furnaces, it is necessary to adhere to the recommendations given in the documentation from the manufacturer. If there are none, general rules apply.
• The distance between the oven itself (its upper wall) and the ceiling is also important. The following regulations apply here:

A. If the furnace ceiling consists of three solid brick rows, then this distance should be at least:

— for unprotected ceilings - 350 mm for intermittent heating, and 1000 mm for long-burning stoves.

- for ceilings protected with a plaster layer or asbestos 10 mm + metal - 250 and 700 mm, respectively.

B. If the stove ceiling consists of only two continuous rows, then the above distances to the ceiling should be increased by one and a half times.

V. For metal stoves, the gap between their upper surface and the ceiling of the room should be at least 800 mm if the ceiling has the above thermal protection, and 1200 mm if there is none.

• The passage of metal chimneys through any ceilings or walls must be made through sleeves made of non-combustible material.

Sealing the gaps around the chimneys must be done with non-combustible materials (class NG or, in extreme cases, G1), best of all - with the lowest possible thermal conductivity coefficient.This will provide the required fire resistance limit for fences.

The wood used for the installation of the rafter system and the attic floor belongs to the G3-G4 group in terms of combustibility. After processing it with fire retardants, it becomes more resistant to fire, but, despite this, remains flammable. It is naive to rely on the "magical qualities" of the advertised impregnations, which supposedly completely make the wood non-combustible. That is why one should adhere to the norms established by SNiP, correctly positioning the chimney and other sections of the furnace at the indicated distances from the structural elements of the house.

Self-activity in these matters, unauthorized deviation from the existing rules, simply admitted negligence can lead to tragic consequences, since overheating of the building elements adjacent to the furnace structure is likely to end in their ignition.

So, a poorly equipped chimney passage through a wooden ceiling can easily lead to a fire. To avoid tragic consequences, it is necessary to properly insulate the cut, ensuring the proper level of fire safety.

To figure out how to carry out these actions correctly, it is necessary, keeping in mind the recommendations of SNiP, to consider the whole process in stages.

Since the chimney can be metal or brick, it is necessary to separately consider the installation of both options.

Transit for a metal chimney pipe

Special devices and materials for penetrating a metal chimney

Box-shaped ceiling-walk-through structures

Arrangement of the passage of a chimney metal pipe through the structure of a wooden floor can be carried out using a ready-made ceiling-walk-through unit, or made independently, but in compliance with the standard dimensions.

If a ready-made version of such a penetration is purchased, then its size is selected according to the diameter of the chimney. The convenience of using the factory box is that its design already provides for all the dimensions established by SNiP, so you don't have to rack your brains over this. It remains only to show the opening in the ceiling for the penetration, and then to strengthen its thermal protection of the surfaces.

You can make a tunnel-box yourself. It is made of different materials - it can be a steel sheet with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm, alone or in combination with minerite, asbestos sheet, with mineral basalt wool foil on one or both sides. If the box is purchased or made of metal, then it will need to be thermally insulated with ordinary or foil mineral wool, vermiculite, expanded clay.

If a decision is made to make such a penetration independently, then the diameter of the hole in its central part should be about 0.5 mm larger than the outer diameter of the pipe. This is done so that the metal pipe passes freely through the box, but at the same time - the gap between them would not be too large.

For the manufacture of penetration, you can use the dimensions shown in the illustrations and presented in the table:

• If the pass-through box is made only of foil-clad mineral wool 50 mm thick, then it is best to cut the elements for it according to pre-made templates. The assembly of parts into a single structure is carried out using heat-resistant foil tape. Having chosen this option for cutting, you must not forget that you will need to purchase or make one or two metal panels for it. One of them is fixed to the ceiling surface, flush with it, and the second (optional) closes the thermal insulation material from the attic side.

• Another option for penetration can be a metal sheet box insulated with the same foil-clad mineral wool. This insulation is cut into strips with a width equal to the height of the resulting box and laid along the walls on the end, with the foil side to the pipe. The space of the duct free from the pipe must be tightly filled with a thermal insulator.
• The box can also be made of minerite (fiber-reinforced concrete slabs) with a thickness of 10 mm. Structural elements are also cut out according to prepared templates, and then fastened together using metal corners. In a casing made of this material, a smaller box is installed and fixed, made of a metal sheet with a thickness of 0.5 mm.

A gap of 10 ÷ 15 mm wide should remain between the walls of the outer and inner boxes, which is filled with basalt insulation, and the space around the pipe can be filled with vermiculite, expanded clay of fine or medium fraction, or the same mineral wool. The holes through which the pipe will pass must have the same diameter in both boxes. You can also use a metal plate for aesthetic design of the penetration from the living area, or leave the fiber cement plate open. After the completion of the installation work, it will be easy to paint the slab overlooking the living space in the color of the ceiling.

Video - Making and installing a homemade box penetration for the chimney of a sauna stove

Heat-resistant materials for the manufacture of penetration

A few minutes of attention deserves the characteristics of the heat-resistant materials that are used to insulate the ceiling penetration. They differ in some of their qualities from ordinary insulation made on the same basis.

• Minerite is absolutely non-combustible material, which is also called fiber cement plates in another way. It is often used for wall cladding in areas where ovens are installed and where chimneys pass.

Minerite prices

This material is not only resistant to extremely high temperatures, but also moisture resistance, has good mechanical strength, does not contribute to the formation of colonies of mold and mildew. Minerite is an environmentally friendly material, therefore, at elevated temperatures, it does not emit fumes that are harmful to human health.

For the manufacture of screens installed in the groove and on the walls around stoves and chimneys, panels "minerite LV" are used. In addition, these panels are also suitable for the construction of fire-resistant partitions.

• Non-combustible slabs made of basalt wool and covered with aluminum foil are used for fire protection of walls and passages around chimneys.

This material is made from environmentally friendly components and has high resistance to aggressive biological and chemical influences. According to its thermal insulation data, mineral wool, of course, is many times superior to minerite, but inferior to it in mechanical strength and durability.

High-quality basalt slabs do not accumulate moisture, and they do not create a favorable environment for the settlement of rodents and insects, the appearance of microflora colonies. This type of insulation belongs to the G1 flammability group. (And this is only due to the adhesive layer that holds the foil coating, since in its "pure form" basalt insulation can be attributed to completely non-combustible materials). Basalt slabs from different manufacturers may slightly differ in the upper limit of the temperature operating range. But in any case, it ranges from +750 to 1100 degrees, which should be more than enough for a chimney.

Basalt slab prices

basalt slabs

Installation of penetration for a metal pipe

Before installing the penetration into the window cut out for it in the attic floor, it must be prepared, additionally reinforced, if necessary, and insulated from high temperatures.

• The first step is to additionally monitor the condition of the opening and the surrounding parts of the ceiling structure. This is done in order to make sure that the box will be securely fixed in it.

The box penetration must be firmly fixed to the ceiling structure. It is, of course, positioned so that it is between the floor beams (it is clear that these questions regarding the placement of the stove in the room are always thought out in advance). Beams can become a reliable base for fastening the penetration located on the sides of it.

However, it often happens that the floor beams are located too far from each other and therefore the "pie" of the floor in the area of ​​the pipe passage does not have the required rigidity, and it will need to be strengthened. Another option, exactly the opposite, is that too frequent spacing of the installed beams does not leave enough free space to accommodate the box penetration.

In any of these cases, after removing the desired section of the coating, you can mount the frame, in accordance with the dimensions of the box, using a wooden beam. The cross members of this frame are rigidly cut into the floor beams. If necessary, if the beams are too wide apart, additional longitudinal support rails can be used in the frame. An example of creating such a frame is shown in the illustration.

Such a check and strengthening (revision) of the frame will be necessary if it is installed in an already built house. However, as a rule, the installation of stoves and, therefore, the installation of chimneys is planned in advance. And in the process of installing floor beams during the construction of a building, such a frame is provided in advance for the subsequent installation of box penetration.

• Further, all wooden parts of the ceiling structure located along the perimeter of the cut-out window for penetration must be additionally treated with a special impregnation. The fire retardants included in the composition will increase the fire-fighting characteristics of the unit being created. They proceed to further operations only after the treated surfaces have completely dried.

• The next step is to mount the penetration box into the cut-out opening from the side of the room. The edges of its bottom part are securely screwed onto the ceiling surface with self-tapping screws.

But this operation should be performed only after careful control of the location of the round hole for the chimney relative to the heater. It is unacceptable that even a slight deviation would cause an unevenness, a "break" in the installed pipe. This will create unnecessary stress in its walls, it may well lead to insufficient sealing in the joints.

A plumb line is best used to fine-tune the position of the box passage to ensure that the axis of the pipe being installed is vertical.

• Further, the lower part of the chimney is assembled starting from the outlet of the furnace (boiler).

It is very important - whatever the distance from the stove to the ceiling, and whatever components are used, never, under any circumstances, the connection of two elements (pipes) of the chimney should not fall on the ceiling. Moreover, the minimum distance from such a connecting unit to the floor surface (it does not matter, from below, indoors, or from above, from the attic side) should be at least 300 mm.

Requirements for the correct positioning of the interfaces of individual pipes are important, of course, from the standpoint of ensuring visual control. But the main predetermining factor for such a considerable (300 mm) offset from the overlap is the continued likelihood of hot gases breaking through in these, frankly speaking, the most vulnerable places of the prefabricated metal chimney.

• The next stage of work can be carried out from the side of the attic or living quarters, depending on how it is more convenient to mount the next section of the pipe. If the work is carried out from the side of the attic, then the next part of the chimney is passed through the hole and fixed on the lower, already mounted section.

• When the pipe is brought into the attic, you can proceed to filling the tunnel with heat-insulating material. If one of the bulk thermal insulation materials is selected, and there are small gaps between the pipe and the border of the round hole, they can be plugged with basalt wool or plastic clay, and then fill the insulation on top.

From bulk heat-insulating materials, it is best to choose expanded clay or vermiculite. Ordinary sand is used for backfill only as a last resort, since it has a too fine fraction, a large weight and an excessively high thermal conductivity for such a function. Expanded perlite sand is not particularly convenient to use in such conditions because of its excessively high "volatility".

The easiest way is to fill the box with heat-resistant basalt wool, since it has the lowest thermal conductivity. When using mineral wool mats, the box on the side of the attic should not be completely closed up in order to have free access to the pipe along its entire length. If the pipe goes to the second floor, then the hole in its floor with insulation material around the chimney can be closed with a metal sheet by screwing it to the floor.

The selection of photographs below demonstrates the installation of a home-made box penetration made of dense slabs of foil-clad basalt insulation.

- The first two fragments: this is a ready-made homemade penetration from different angles.

- The third fragment: a window has been cut in the ceiling for the installation of the penetration. Please note: for maximum safety, the master also filled the gap between the ceiling covering and the attic floor with mineral wool.

- Fourth photo: The penetration box is inserted into the prepared opening and fixed from below.

- Fifth fragment: After the installation of the pipe section leading to the attic, the penetration is closed from below with a metal panel. It is securely fixed to the ceiling with self-tapping screws, completely covers the edges of the window of the passage unit, holds the heat-insulating box well in the ceiling and provides mechanical protection for the mineral wool panel, which is not particularly durable.

- Sixth photo: Continuation of the installation of the chimney. The gap between the pipe and the box will be tightly filled with mineral wool. Since the attic in this case is "inhabited", the entire passageway will be covered with a decorative metal plate.

And in the video below, the master did without creating a box-like structure at all.

Video: fire-prevention fluff of the chimney in the passage through the wooden floor

Passage of a brick pipe through the ceiling

A brick chimney, as a rule, has a design that protects the surrounding combustible materials from overheating. The section of the pipe, which is laid out when it passes through the ceiling, itself is already a cut and is called "fluff".

This chimney design is traditional, tested for a long time, and is most often chosen by stove-makers.

• The "fluff" begins under the very ceiling in the living room (three to four rows of bricks before it) and goes through the entire thickness of the attic floor. Sometimes the fluff is raised to the clean floor of the attic, in other cases it is made flush with the subfloor. Both that and the other option can cause nit-picking of the inspectors - remember the notorious "70 millimeters" already discussed above.

This structural element plays the role of the necessary thickening of the pipe walls, which protects the combustible materials of the floor from overheating.

In fact, the SNiP requirements that were discussed in the first section of the publication directly affect the design of the "fluff". In order not to repeat itself, you can give a diagram that clearly shows what dimensions and where should be observed:

Is it possible to lay out a brick chimney by yourself?

The work, at first glance, is not difficult, however, a lot depends on its quality, up to the health and life of the inhabitants of the house. Detailed information about can be read by following the recommended link - it will be easier to figure out whether it is worth taking this event on yourself, or it is better to invite specialists.

• Another option for arranging a brick pipe penetration through the ceiling is carried out in almost the same way as a metal pipe. In this case, of course, the chimney along its entire height has the same cross-sectional size, without increasing the thickness of the walls. Nevertheless, all linear parameters set by SNiP are respected.

The opening in the ceiling can be covered with a metal sheet or a fiber cement slab. In the middle of the thermal insulation panel, a window is marked, through which the chimney will pass. The length and width of this opening should exceed the same parameters of the pipe by literally 3 ÷ 5 mm.

When laying the chimney, about three to four rows to the ceiling, a sheet with a prepared opening is put on it, and then the laying is made further to the height of the clean floor of the attic.

The next step, the sheet put on the pipe rises, is pressed and fixed to the ceiling in a convenient way in a particular case - with self-tapping screws or dowels.

Further, work is carried out from the side of the attic or the second floor. On the walls of the opening cut out for penetration, strips of basalt wool, asbestos or fiber cement slabs are laid. This "framing" should cover the entire thickness of the attic floor. If necessary, the material can be fixed to the floor beams.

Thanks to these operations, a kind of box is created around the neck of the pipe, which will be filled with heat-resistant material. Basalt wool can be used as it, with which the entire volume is densely filled. If wool with a foil layer is used, then it is turned towards the walls of the oven.

It is quite possible to perform a similar thermal insulation of the pipe with expanded clay or vermiculite, but before backfilling, it is imperative to seal up the cracks remaining between the pipe and the edges of the opening, especially if material of fine fractions is used.

Of course, you can do exactly the same as with a metal pipe, putting on a ready-made penetration made of steel sheet on a brick chimney. This option will probably be more reliable and more convenient both in terms of its installation and secure fixation, and when filling the box with thermal insulation material. True, such a box will cost significantly more. Does it make sense - decide for yourself.

Having filled the penetration with insulation, it is also closed from above with a metal or fiber cement sheet.

On this, the work on arranging the safe passage of the chimney through the ceiling can be considered complete.

After reviewing the details of the arrangement of this area of ​​the chimney, you can come to the following conclusion:

That there are no particularly complex actions, subject only to highly qualified narrow specialists, in this process. The main thing is to scrupulously follow the established SNiP requirements, maintaining all the necessary dimensions and following the recommendations. If everything is done according to the rules, then it is possible not only to ensure the safe operation of the heating device, but also to avoid completely unnecessary problems with the regulatory authorities.

Evgeny AfanasievChief Editor

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How to independently equip the passage of a pipe through the roof in a private house or bath

In the process of building any house, there always comes a time when it is necessary to remove the stove or ventilation pipes through the roof, without this in any way. Some owners do not attach much importance to this process, however, mistakes made during the arrangement of the docking station can lead to serious negative consequences. In this article, I will tell you how to independently lead pipes through the attic floor and different types of roofs.

What can a poor-quality installation lead to?

In most cases, stove-makers and ventilation specialists are exclusively engaged in the installation of their sector. The pipe passages through the wall, floor and roof do not touch them. People do not want to hire a professional, and they get down to business themselves. As a result, after a short period of time, a whole heap of problems can emerge.

When you hire a specialist, it is better to immediately stipulate the moment of arranging transitions through structures.
Sometimes it is easier to pay a little more to an experienced person, rather than then puzzle over how to do it all correctly and beautifully with your own hands.

• The materials from which the chimneys are made are quite hardy, they can easily withstand temperature extremes, but these materials are often not designed for constant contact with moisture. For example, or an asbestos-cement pipe, saturated with moisture, will simply begin to crumble and after a couple of seasons it will look as if its mice have eaten;
• Again, due to high humidity, this sector from the inside will be intensively overgrown with soot., therefore, the chimney will have to be cleaned much more often;
• But that's not the worst part. In most cases, the roof is now insulated with basalt or glass wool.... As soon as such a heater gets wet, firstly, it becomes useless, and secondly, it sits down and is no longer restored. Drying cotton wool is pointless, you just need to change it;
• Do not forget that almost all roofs are made on the basis of a wooden frame.... Whatever you impregnate the wood, but if the structures are constantly in a humid environment, then sooner or later, they will begin to rot. The water wears away the stone, what can we say about the tree;

• There is one more moment, I will explain it with an example. An acquaintance of mine finished building a house in the fall, and since the weather had already started to deteriorate noticeably, he repaired the passage through the roof of the chimney at random, hoping that in the spring it would fix everything.

Imagine what his surprise was when, on New Year's holidays, the chimney, the passage through the ceiling of which was decorated in a pompous and very expensive Baroque style, became covered with red wet spots and the stucco molding began to fall off. And all this happened because the roof joint was not tight enough.

After the stove was flooded, the snow melted around the pipe, water flowed through the pipe and completely ruined the luxurious interior, the cost of which was ten times higher than the services of the most expensive roofer.

Where is it better to remove pipes

Of course, when the house was built a long time ago and you are just repairing the roof, you cannot change anything. But at the design stage, you have the opportunity to choose the optimal place for the pipe outlet.

Any stove-maker will tell you that it is best to mount the pass-through unit in the ridge. But here is a double-edged sword. On the one hand, snow or rain will never leak under the chimney, plus the chimney located above the ridge provides optimal draft. On the other hand, you will have to tinker a lot with arranging the rafter system, because breaking a horizontal ridge beam is a rather complicated matter.

The minimum distance from the chimney to the rafters or supporting beams according to SNiP 41-03-01-2003 should be 140 - 250 mm.

• It is usually recommended to slightly move the chimney to either side relative to the ridge. Moreover, if the pipe is at a distance of up to one and a half meters from the ridge, then it should rise above it to a height of 50 cm;
• If the distance from the ridge to the passage unit fluctuates in the region of 1.5 - 3 m, then the pipe can be made flush with the ridge in height;
• When the roof is single-pitched or the distance from the ridge beam to the pass-through node is more than 3 m, it is allowed to install the top point of the pipe along a line running at an angle of 10º relative to the horizon along the ridge. To make it easier for you to understand, the diagram below is presented.

The most undesirable place for the installation of chimney and ventilation pipes is their location in the "valley". For those who do not know, enode is called the inner corner, which is formed by the connection of two roof slopes. This does not threaten ordinary classical structures; such an arrangement can be found on multi-level roofs with a complex configuration.

If you are faced with a case when your passage of the chimney through the roof is in the "valley", then it is better to try to make an extra knee and move the pipe half a meter to the side.

For the so-called sandwich structures, of which most chimneys are now made for boilers and bath stoves, this will not be difficult. Otherwise, the water will constantly attack your connector from three sides and sooner or later it will leak.

Self-assembly of roof or ceiling passages

If earlier the roofs were mostly covered with slate, now it is increasingly being replaced by metal tiles and other modern roofing materials. Plus, in addition to the passage through the roof, you also need to take care of the transitions through the ceiling.

Elastic adapter block as the easiest way out

A good half of modern chimneys and almost all ventilation outlets are now made round. It is precisely for such designs that elastic adapters are produced.

This adapter is a multistage funnel with a square or round base. A heat-resistant, elastic polymer is used as the main material.

Each step on the funnel corresponds to one of the common chimney diameters. In order for the pipe to fit tightly, you only need to cut the adapter to the level you need with scissors.

Airtight fixation of the soft polymer base (flange) to the roof itself is carried out with metal studs and bolts. Such a flange can take any shape, therefore it easily bends around the complex relief of roofing.

The price for such a product is quite acceptable, plus the installation instructions, in my opinion, are more than simple. As I said, you first need to cut the cone to the desired diameter. After that, it is necessary to lubricate with a heat-resistant sealant the junction of the adapter with the pipe and the lower, contact part of the flange. Then you just have to screw the flange with metal pins through the holes drilled in advance to the lower flange ring.

Insulated sandwich chimneys are distinguished by their mirror shine. If you do not like the elastic polymer adapter, then for such cases there are metal adapters made of the same stainless steel. They differ from the polymer analogue in the large dimensions of the apron, the given angle of inclination of the roof and the well-defined diameter of the chimney.

Metal adapter.

The installation of such stainless steel adapters differs from the previous version only in that a metal clamp is additionally used for the tight connection of the adapter and the pipe, in addition to heat-resistant sealant.

Arrangement of passage through metal tiles

I want to note right away that it is quite difficult to make the passage of the pipe through the metal tile competently without experience, therefore, after studying the instructions and watching the thematic photos and videos in this article, you should think carefully whether you are capable of such a labor feat.

The connecting unit consists of an inner main and an outer decorative apron. The inner apron is usually made from tin or thin aluminum sheet by experienced roofers. We have already mentioned round pipes, so further we will talk about sealing the joint of the roof with square or rectangular brick pipes.

The inner apron is installed directly on the battens even before the metal tiles are laid. The structure consists of 4 parts, according to the number of pipe planes. Each of these parts must go under the metal tile layer by at least 250 - 300 mm. It goes to the pipe by 150 - 250 mm, again from the metal tile layer.

Before installing the apron elements along the perimeter of the pipe at the same level parallel to the roof, a grinder cut a groove with a depth of 10 - 15 mm. We will insert the upper cut of the apron into it.

Before inserting the apron elements into the strobe, it is cleaned, washed with water, dried and filled with a heat-resistant sealant. Only the sealant needs to be filled right before installing the protective elements.

On the plates themselves, along the upper cut, the rim is bent under 90º to the depth of the groove. Personally, I made it easier, I immediately inserted the sheets into the strobe and tapped them with a hammer and bent them down parallel to the pipe.

We finish the installation of the apron by attaching it to the pipe with special heat-resistant dowels and soldering the joints between all four elements. But that's not all, a so-called tie is wound up and attached to the bottom of the roof under the apron. This is a sheet of the same tin or aluminum, the width of which must exceed the dimensions of the pipe by at least half a meter on each side.

It should run down the underlay to the edge of the roof. A tie is a kind of insurance, if somewhere the decorative patch starts to leak, water will drain down the tie under the metal tile. This will keep the roofing cake dry.

When the inner apron and tie are finally fixed on the pipe and roof lathing, you can start laying the metal tile itself. At the end, a decorative apron is mounted. Each of the manufacturers of metal tiles produces their own additional elements and makes them to match the color of the roof.

Such aprons are usually corrugated aluminum or lead sheets, on the back of which a self-adhesive coating is applied. From above, such an apron is equipped with a decorative strip, which is fixed to the pipe with self-tapping screws. But before fixing, it is advisable to additionally coat the joint with heat-resistant.

The upper strip of the decorative apron is attached just above the border of the lower main apron, after fixing it, the apron itself is carefully tapped with a rubber hammer so that the corrugated sheet does well and sticks to the complex surface of the metal tile.

Arrangement of transitions with soft modern roofing materials is carried out in about the same way, with the only difference that it often does without installing a tie.

The main mistake of amateurs is that they often neglect the installation of the main lower apron and tie, the decorative upper apron holds, of course, well, but the thin, soft aluminum corrugation barrier is not particularly reliable and can be easily damaged, for example, by a branch that has fallen from a tree ...

How to protect a wood base from a hot chimney

As you remember, according to SNiP 41-03-01-2003, the minimum distance from the chimney to any wooden structures starts from 140 mm. Sandwich elements are considered the most "advanced" in this regard, but even there the insulation has a maximum thickness of only 100 mm.

We conclude that all chimneys must be protected when passing through a wooden roof structure or a wooden floor.

The passage of the pipe through the ceiling of the bath is the most striking illustration of this topic, since baths in our great power are usually made of wood. It is also worth adding to this that the temperature in sauna stoves is often higher than in conventional ones.

It is believed that in order for dry wood to start charring, it only needs 200 ° C. And when the temperature reaches 300 ° C, there is a real danger of spontaneous combustion.
If we consider that birch firewood gives temperatures up to 500 ° C, and when using good coal or coke, the temperature can rise above 700 ° C, then the scale of the danger becomes clear.

When arranging such transitions, you can go in two ways, buy a special adapter block, or do it yourself.

Now the industry produces a variety of ceiling pass-through units (PPU). In expensive structures of a similar plan, a special reinforced box is provided, which comes with insulation, filler and other accessories. But as far as I have come across, our person does not want to pay money for such conveniences, and in this, I agree with him.

The fact is that the design itself is not particularly complicated and here, as is often the case with us, it is cheaper to buy everything separately. First, I will tell you what the classic instruction for such an arrangement looks like, and then I will tell you how I made the transition of the pipe through the ceiling of the bath with my own hands:

• In almost any construction market, you can now find special metal boxes with a ready-made hole cut for a certain diameter of the chimney;
• In the horizontal plate of such a box, which is also part of the ceiling, fastening holes are made around the perimeter for self-tapping screws. But immediately the structure cannot be attached to a "bare" wooden ceiling. Its edges must first be coated with a non-combustible heat insulator. Most often, asbestos canvas is used for these purposes;
• The dimensions of the vertical walls of the box are selected in the same way so that an asbestos sheet can be fixed between them and the through hole;

• From the inside, the vertical walls of the box are supposed to be covered with foil-clad basalt wool 30 - 50 mm thick, it certainly costs more than the usual one, but this is the instruction;
• It is almost impossible to pick up the holes in the box for the chimney absolutely clearly without the slightest gap, at least a small gap, but still there will be. Here it is supposed to be covered with a heat-resistant sealant;
• Further, the space between the foil basalt wool and the chimney is filled with expanded clay or the same wool, only soft and uncoated. For a non-residential attic floor, this is enough, but if the bath is of an attic type, and there is a rest room on the second floor, then the box must be covered from above with a minerite plate (a heat-resistant and safer analogue of asbestos) or the same stainless steel plate.

Now, as I promised, I will tell you about my own experience in arranging such a transition. The bath was made for a long time, and then these convenient devices were simply not there. Sandwich structures at that time cost fabulous money, so an ownerless cast-iron pipe was installed as a chimney.

A square hole in the wooden floor was cut with the same calculation so that in all directions between the chimney and the wood there was at least 250 mm. I immediately filled the vertical walls of the niche with asbestos cloth.

A three-millimeter sheet of stainless steel was sewn underneath. I wanted to hem a ten-millimeter asbestos-cement slab, but I was afraid that it would burst from the temperature, although a neighbor did it and is still standing.

I wrapped the pipe in the box with asbestos cloth and caulked the gap with clay on top of it. And on top of this whole farm was covered with expanded clay of medium diameter. On the second floor of the bath, I decided to make a rest room, but at that time I did not find a second sheet of the same stainless steel.

Then I mixed a cement-lime mortar based on expanded clay sand and poured a thirty-millimeter wire-reinforced screed. Only the screed was poured not close to the cast-iron pipe, but through a gasket made of asbestos cloth, otherwise it would simply crack with temperature fluctuations.

Output

As you can see, you can do it yourself through the roof of the chimney. But still, if you decide to spend money on a high-quality coating made of metal tiles or other similar materials, I recommend that you first carefully study the available methods. If you have any questions, write them in the comments, I will try to answer.

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