Sewer pipe system in a private house. How to properly organize the sewage system in a private house - step by step instructions. Circumstances and scheme of laying the external sewage system

Sewerage in a private house is absolutely necessary if you live there permanently, and it is highly desirable if you only bring the summer months there. I will help you figure out the basic diagrams of the sewerage system, and together we will analyze the algorithm for performing the key stages of the work.

Sewerage scheme

Sewerage for a private house is an essential condition for a comfortable stay. It is possible to use the street and cesspool only temporarily. Sooner or later, the question of creating an integrated system is understood.

Before making a sewage system in a private house, you need to decide on its configuration. The easiest way to do this is consistently:

Analysis of existing communications. If there is a centralized sewerage network in the settlement, then the work is simplified by an order of magnitude. It will be enough for us just to get to the collector pipe and connect to it.

To connect to a common collector, you need permission from the local administration, and it is better to entrust the work itself to specialists. But in any case, it will be much cheaper than making a sewer tank yourself.

Determination of the type of tank. Here we have only two options: a septic tank or a cesspool. It is more difficult and more expensive to make a septic tank, but it needs pumping less often, a cesspool - on the contrary. The optimal choice is a septic tank combined with a biological treatment station, but the high cost acts as a limiting factor.

Choosing a location for the tank. In this matter, you need to be guided by the current regulations, which determine the minimum distance from a pit or septic tank to various objects. It is advisable to find a point in the lower part of the relief (to dig less) at a distance of at least 10 m from the house and at least 15 m from the well / well.
Allocation of a room. The sewerage system of a private house should link together all the water discharge points. It is worth collecting them as close to each other as possible, therefore we determine where the bathroom will be located. It is advisable to place it against the outer wall, on the side of the house where the reservoir will be - this way we will spend less effort and money on laying pipes.

Pre-planning. Based on the information received, we build a plan for the entire system and preliminarily calculate how much and what materials we need. According to the calculations, we plan the budget (we immediately put in it an excess of 30%) and assess whether the project will be "lifting".

If the preliminary stage has ended successfully, you can proceed to purchasing and performing preliminary work.

Materials for creating an autonomous sewage system

An independent sewage system in a private household is a rather resource-intensive project. What is the minimum of materials required for its implementation?

The main items of expenditure are shown in the table:

Illustration	Structural element
	Ready septic tank. The optimal solution for an autonomous sewage system is the installation of an industrial septic tank (Tank, Triton and analogues). Such products are equipped with multi-chamber reservoirs of sufficient volume and all the necessary devices for the primary treatment of effluents, so we just have to install them. The main disadvantage- high price.
	Plastic container for a septic tank. As a reservoir, you can use a plastic (polyethylene, polypropylene) tank to accumulate waste. You can also purchase the so-called "Eurocube". A plus- complete tightness of the system. Minus- rather high cost and the need to install additional cleaning devices.
	Concrete rings. If saving money is a priority when creating a sewer system, then reservoirs for the accumulation and treatment of wastewater can be made from standard concrete rings. Flaw- the need to additionally seal containers and the complexity of installation. Perhaps, one cannot do without attracting a crane.
	Pipes for outdoor sewerage. To connect the cesspool or septic tank with the house, special outer pipes (orange paint) are used. They tolerate temperature changes well and do not deform even under significant pressure when laid at depth.
	Pipes and fittings for internal sewerage. Internal sewerage wiring is formed from polypropylene (gray) pipes with a diameter of 110 to 40 mm. Together with the pipes, it is advisable to purchase the required number of fittings for registration of turns, bends, revisions, etc.
	Pipe insulation. When laying the outer part of the network, as well as when installing communications in unheated rooms (basement, basement), there is a risk of pipes freezing. To avoid this, it is advisable to insulate the sewer system using casings made of mineral wool, polyethylene foam, polyurethane foam, etc.

In addition to the basic materials that are used directly to create the system, additional ones will be needed:

gravel and sand for excavation and drainage;
cement mortar;
sealant based on moisture resistant silicone;
revision wells - if you need to lay a long or winding pipeline.

Outdoor work

Stage 1. Principle of operation and calculation of the volume of the septic tank

Sewerage installation in a private house includes two types of work:

outdoor- consist in the device of the reservoir (cesspool or septic tank) and laying a pipe to the house;
internal- presuppose the installation of piping in the house and the connection of water consumption points to it.

If possible, then these works are performed in parallel, but if not, then you need to start with the device of the outer part.

The most effective design for an autonomous sewage system in a private house is a septic tank. Unlike a cesspool, it does not accumulate waste, but ensures its processing. At the exit, relatively pure water is obtained, which is filtered into the soil, polluting it with organic matter at a minimum level.

The septic tank works quite simply:

Upholding... First, wastewater enters the first tank - a sump. It separates wastewater into fractions: solid particles precipitate (sludge), light organic matter floats on the surface, and clarified liquid is collected in the middle part. Here, bacterial decomposition of waste takes place with the release of gaseous reaction products and mineralization of the residues.

Overflow... An overflow hole is made in the wall of the first tank, which is located at the filling level. Through the overflow pipe, the clarified water flows from the sump into the second chamber, and solid residues are retained.
Filtration... In the second chamber (filtration or drainage well), the clarified wastewater passes through the drainage layer at the bottom. Drainage also retains some of the pollution, so almost pure water enters the soil.

Almost all septic tanks work according to this principle, both homemade and factory ones. The difference lies in the design of the tanks, as well as in their number. Sometimes a septic tank has not two, but three chambers - then another tank is added between the sump and the filtration tank for more effective cleaning.

Before you arrange a septic tank, you need to calculate its optimal volume.

The calculation of the volume of the septic tank is carried out according to the formula:

V = n * Q * 3/1000, where

V- the required volume of the septic tank in cubic meters;
n- the number of people permanently residing in the house;
Q- rate of water consumption per person, liters per day;
3 - average duration of wastewater cleaning, days.

If we take 200 liters approved in SNiP as the consumption rate, then, for example, for 4 people the volume will be as follows:

V = 4 * 200 * 3/1000 = 2.4 m3.

Stage 2. Installation and equipment of the sewerage tank

Now let's figure out how to properly make the sewerage system in a private house. Algorithm of work on the device of a septic tank in the table:

Illustration	Stage of work
	Digging a pit. In the selected place, we apply markings to the site, after which we dig a foundation pit to install the tanks. We select the dimensions of the pit with a margin - so that a layer of bedding and waterproofing / drainage can be laid on the bottom, and a clay castle can be made on the sides. For septic tanks of a small volume, the pit is dug manually, for large-scale structures it is better to use the services of an excavator.
	Preparation of the base. We level the bottom of the pit, after which we lay the sand bedding up to 20 cm thick. A waterproofing pad made of clay or a concrete disc, the diameter of which will correspond to the diameter of the well, can be placed under the installation site of the sump (the first tank).
	Installation of containers. We lower concrete rings to the bottom of the pit, from which we form two wells. We seal the joints between the rings in order to exclude the ingress of untreated wastewater into the ground.
	Tank bottom device. We make the lower part of the sump airtight, pouring a layer of concrete up to 10 cm thick. Additionally, you can treat the base with bitumen mastic and lay a waterproofing roll material. We fill in the drainage at the bottom of the filtration well: pebbles, gravel, broken ceramic bricks, etc. You can also make holes in the bottom ring of this tank or use a special perforated reinforced concrete blank.
	Overflow decoration. We connect both tanks with an overflow pipe, which we insert into the holes at a distance of about 1.5 m from the bottom. To prevent organic waste from entering the filtration tank from the sump, we install a T-shaped fitting on the pipe. Due to the presence of the lower branch pipe, such a fitting allows the selection of the clarified liquid under the surface organic film. The installation locations of the overflow pipe are carefully sealed.
	Overlap and necks. Floor slabs with holes for hatches are installed on the wells. If the septic tank is located deeply, then necks can be additionally used - narrower rings that provide access for cleaning, revision and repair.
	Ventilation and hatches. We build a ventilation pipe into the ceiling. It is desirable to make it higher - this way the unpleasant smell will evaporate faster. We cover the wells or separately withdrawn necks with hatches of a suitable diameter, fixing them with cement mortar.

If the septic tank is below the groundwater level, then it is advisable to seal it outside using roofing material or bitumen mastic. Also, laying a dense layer of clay around the perimeter of the tanks - the so-called clay castle - will help prevent moisture from seeping into the chambers.

Stage 3. Laying pipes from the tank to the house

The next element of the external sewage system is a pipe that connects the tank to the house. Through it, wastewater will flow into the treatment / storage facility.

Pipe laying technology:

Illustration	Operation being performed
	Digging and preparing trenches. We dig a trench with a depth of 50 cm to 1.5 m between the house and the septic tank (the deeper the soil freezes in winter, the more you have to dig). For the most efficient drainage, we form a slope towards the septic tank of about 2 cm per 1 m. At the bottom we put sand bedding up to 15 cm. We moisten the bedding and ram it.
	Pipe laying. We put a waste drain pipe in the trench. The optimum pipe diameter for the outside of the sewer system is 110 or 160 mm.
	Thermal insulation of the pipe. If the septic tank is located relatively shallow, and the pipe cannot be buried more than 1 m, the circuit requires additional insulation. To do this, we wrap it with rolled material based on glass wool or mineral fiber, or we use cylindrical casings of a suitable diameter.
	Entering the septic tank. We see one end of the pipe into the septic tank through a hole in the concrete wall of the well. As with the installation of the overflow, the hole is carefully sealed.
	Entering the house. The place of entrance to the house can be decorated in different ways, but most often the pipe is wound through a hole in the basement or foundation. It is advisable to insert a metal sleeve into the hole, which will protect the sewer system from damage during movements and subsidence. Also, the input node should be insulated.

After the completion of these works, we fill up all the trenches and pits completely, and then lay fertile soil or a layer of sod over the backfill.

It is also advisable to make marks on the wall of the house at the entrance. These marks will be needed when we look for exactly where the sewer pipes are laid.

How to make a sewer wiring correctly

Stage 4. The main elements of the internal network

The next stage is the arrangement of the internal sewerage system. Its configuration directly depends on where the sources of sinks are located, so here I will give a description of its main elements:

Riser- central vertical pipe, large diameter (at least 110 mm), which unites all circuits together. As a rule, one riser is made in a private house, but in large buildings there may be several of them. In the lower part, through the knee, it is connected to the outgoing sewer pipe.
Fan pipe- mounted in the upper part of the riser, it serves to remove gases accumulating in pipes from the system to the outside. It is discharged into a separate ventilation shaft or connected to a ventilation pipe located above the level of the roof.

Without a waste pipe, the pressure in the system will increase, which can lead to incorrect operation of the shut-off valves. In addition, accumulated gases cause unpleasant odors.

Trunk lines- pipelines with a diameter of about 50 mm (2 inches). Used to connect plumbing fixtures and other sources of drainage to the riser. Since the local sewage system is usually done by gravity (i.e., working without additional pressure), the pipes are laid with a slope towards the drain. For two-inch pipes, the optimum slope is about 3 cm per 1 m.
Supply pipes- are used to connect outlets of plumbing fixtures with highways. The diameter of such a pipe cannot be greater than the diameter of the line.

Revisions- special fittings, which are a single branch tee equipped with a closing hatch. The revision is placed at the base of the riser, at bends, forks and at the ends of highways. It provides access to the inside of the pipeline for removing blockages or maintenance work.

Step 5. Connecting pipes

All pipes are connected to each other using fittings that allow you to make turns, bends, branches, etc. When installing the system, it is advisable to avoid turns at sharp and right angles, forming smooth arcs - this way we reduce the risk of blockages in the place where the flow rate decreases.

Typical modern pipes, equipped with sockets and elastic cuffs, are easily assembled by hand :

Illustration	Assembly operation
	Cutting the pipe. Using a fine-toothed hacksaw, cut the straight end of the pipe to the desired size.
	Chamfering. We clean the cutting place, removing burrs from the outer inner side - they can cause a blockage.
	Socket preparation. Insert a rubber O-ring into the socket. We level the seal by placing it in the groove and making sure there are no bends and creases.
	Pipe connection. We insert the branch pipe into the socket and push it in until it stops. If necessary, turn the pipe so that the branch or inspection hole is in the desired position.

After assembly, all pipes are installed on supporting surfaces. The instruction allows both hidden (in the grooves or behind the casing) and open gasket. In the second case, plastic clamps with a snap or screw fixation are used to fasten the pipes.

Stage 6. Connection to plumbing fixtures

At the last stage, the plumbing equipment is connected:

Toilet bowl- usually installed in the immediate vicinity of the riser. The outlet of the toilet bowl is connected with a corrugation or a piece of pipe, either with a riser outlet, or with a short line with a diameter of at least 110 mm.

Bathroom or shower- connected to the sewerage system using compact siphons, which are placed under the drain holes. The optimum outlet pipe diameter is at least 50 mm.

Some models of shower cabins and toilets require a vertical sewage supply - this must be taken into account in advance when designing the system.

Sinks in the kitchen and bathroom- built into the system using siphons with water traps. The siphon is usually in the shape of a flask and is located under the sink, and it is connected to the sewer outlet with a flexible corrugated pipe.
Washing machines and dishwashers- also mounted using flexible corrugated hoses. To connect such devices, a separate sewer pipe branch should be installed, equipped with a socket with a rubber sealing collar.

Conclusion

The sewerage system installation technology includes a number of nuances that directly affect the final result. Now you know them. You can visually familiarize yourself with the intricacies of the topic in the video in this article. You can get answers to any questions that arise in the comments to this material.

A street toilet with a cesspool is gradually becoming a thing of the past. A new house and even a small summer cottage should delight the owners with comfort and conveniences normal for the 21st century. The device is a completely affordable and safe event for the building, if you approach the design wisely and use modern materials and technologies. When building a house, the drainage system is laid at the design stage, along with other engineering communications, but in the old house it is quite possible to organize the construction of a bathroom with an urban level of comfort.

All private houses can be divided into two categories - those that can be connected to a centralized city or village sewerage system, and those that cannot. The progress of work and the arrangement of communications inside the premises for these cases will be the same, a significant difference will be only in the organization of wastewater disposal.

General principles of installing sewage in a private house

Basically, the sewage system in a private house, as in a city apartment, consists of a vertical riser and pipes of a smaller diameter, through which drains from a sink, toilet bowl, etc. enter it by gravity. Then the wastewater flows into horizontally located pipes of large diameter, and from them into the centralized sewerage system or adjacent autonomous treatment facilities.

When planning the sewerage system in a house under construction, it is worth locating the kitchen and bathrooms nearby, preferably near the place where the sewerage system goes out into the street. If the house is two-story, then the bathrooms should be placed one under the other in order to reduce the number of risers and simplify the installation of the system and its subsequent maintenance.

In a large house with a large number of bathrooms, with a complex sewage system, it is rational to install a sewer pump. A pump may also be needed if the site has absolutely no slope.

When designing a sewage system, they also take into account:

landscape of the site - sewage flows down and a septic tank or cesspool should be at its lowest point,
the type of soil, its freezing and the height of the groundwater - the depth of the external sewage pipes and the choice of treatment facilities depend on this

Choice of materials

At the present stage, polypropylene or polyvinyl chloride is the best option. They are inexpensive, easy to transport and install, and do not require a welding machine to assemble. In addition to pipes, you will need connecting elements: elbows of various configurations, fittings, tees, inspection hatches. The joints are additionally treated with a sealant.

The diameter of the pipes depends on the volume of waste water and the number of devices connected to the system. In any case, the diameter of the pipe from the plumbing device must be equal to or greater than its drain pipe. The diameter of the pipe for the riser must be from 100 mm if a toilet bowl is connected to it, and from 50 mm if there is no toilet bowl. The length of the pipes from the device to the riser should not exceed 3 m, and from the toilet bowl - 1 m. If this distance needs to be increased, then the pipes are taken with a larger diameter.

Installation of pipes and connection of plumbing

Before assembling the system, it is better to draw it in detail or design it in a computer program. All horizontal pipes of the internal sewage system should be sloped from the device to the riser at the rate of 2-15 cm per 1 m.If you need to turn the pipe 90 degrees, it is better to do this smoothly, using 2 bends at 45 or 3 bends at 30 degrees, for preventing blockages.

The toilet is connected to the vertical riser separately to avoid emptying the siphons in the plumbing when draining the water. Moreover, the rest of the devices must be connected above the toilet to prevent drains from entering them.

Sewer pipes on each floor in the lower part are equipped with inspection hatches. For sound insulation, they can be wrapped with a layer of mineral wool or covered with a plasterboard box.

The sanitary fittings are connected to the pipes through a U-shaped siphon, the bottom of which always contains a little water. Fetid gases from the sewer cannot pass through this barrier. Some sinks and bathrooms are already sold with a siphon, for others you will need to purchase it additionally, toilets have a built-in siphon.

The riser with external pipes is connected using horizontal pipes of the same or large diameter, located in the basement, plinth or under the floor. Such pipes are also equipped with inspection hatches (required when cornering). When connecting them, you should avoid right angles and difficult turns. If the pipe runs in the ground or in an unheated room, then it must be well insulated. At the point of exit from the house, all sewer pipes are collected together and, through a hole in the foundation, they are joined to the external sewage system.

The sewer pipes are attached to the walls with clamps. Additional fasteners are installed close to the riser tie-ins, connections and transitions.

Sewer ventilation

A large amount of abruptly drained water, for example from a toilet cistern, moving along the pipe, creates an area of discharged space behind it. In the absence of air entering the system, water from the siphons of plumbing fixtures leaves along this pipe, and an unpleasant odor appears. For this reason, the sewerage system must be equipped with its own ventilation.

For pipes, risers are extended to the roof, the upper end does not close, but reliably hides from precipitation and debris. You can do it differently, at the top of the riser, an aeration valve is installed, which does not release odors, but conducts air inside, which prevents the discharge of air in the pipe.

Outdoor sewerage

It is also optimal to use polymer pipes outside the home. To lay them, a trench is pulled out to the depth of freezing of the soil, a sand cushion is poured on its bottom, and then pipes are laid at a slope of 2-3%. If it is impossible to ensure a sufficiently deep occurrence, then it is necessary to carefully insulate the pipes.

At the point of connection to the house and near the junction with the central sewerage system or autonomous treatment facilities, inspection hatches are installed. It is advisable to install a non-return valve in the pipe. It will protect the house sewage system from the ingress of sewage from the outside, for example, when the cesspool is overflowed, and from the penetration of rodents through the pipes.

Wastewater treatment plant

An autonomous sewage system at the end can have:

cesspool,
biological treatment station.

Each of these options has its own advantages and disadvantages, but, in general, it is possible to recommend a cesspool only for summer cottages where they do not live permanently, or for small houses for 1-2 people. A biological treatment plant is expensive, but once installed, preventive maintenance and emptying will rarely have to be done. A septic tank is the best option, you can buy it ready-made or make it yourself.

A properly designed and installed sewerage system will make living in your own home even more comfortable.

If earlier the toilet on the street was considered commonplace for a suburban area, now even in summer cottages where they come to rest on weekends, homeowners strive to create comfortable conditions. And a lot depends on whether the sewerage system has been correctly selected, designed and installed. What treatment plant to choose, how to make a septic tank on your own, when is it better to install one VOC on several houses, how to carry out the sewerage system, which pipes to use and how to properly lay in the house and on the site - we are discussing these and other issues on organizing sewerage systems outside the city in the topic of this week ...

Articles:

A rare suburban village or partnership can boast of the presence of a main water supply and sewerage system, but mostly the owners of suburban real estate have to acquire home comforts on their own. Consider what a septic tank is, existing sanitary standards, system selection parameters and the most popular types of septic tanks.

Uninterruptible power supply systems, noise-absorbing plastic sewer pipes, pumping units that sewage for a private house needs, wastewater treatment plants and drainage solution - everything you need for your treatment system.

What are the advantages of integrated treatment systems, in which situations collective treatment facilities are more suitable. Methods for organizing and connecting the sewage system outside the city. How to sew a sewer with your own hands.

How to choose a treatment system that is best suited for a large country house and a small country house, how much will it cost, how does a septic tank differ from a sealed and absorbing cesspool - experts come to the rescue.

Why do you need a fan pipe, what it should be, what diameter will be enough, where it is better to conduct it. We sort things out with FORUMHOUSE users.

Although the modern market offers many ready-to-use wastewater treatment systems, users of our portal prefer to roll up their sleeves and make a septic tank on their own. How long it serves, what should be the size of such a well, what to make the bottom of, how long the wastewater is processed in the sump - we are talking about the experience of the participants of our portal.

Video:

Implementation of a septic tank system. Personal experience . The hero of this video is sure: the main thing in a septic tank is the presence of oxygen for the normal functioning of bacteria. He will tell you in detail and show how his sewage system was made for the house with his own hands, and also share the problems that arose several years after the system began operating.

Pipes for indoor and outdoor sewerage. Recommendations of specialists. Successful sewerage at home with your own hands is impossible without serious plumbing training. How do the pipes of internal and external sewerage differ from each other, what features they have, how they are made - we deal with a technical specialist.

Autonomous sewerage. Features of choice. Thinking about drainage on the site, you should carefully study the market and take a closer look at modern treatment facilities. Autonomous sewage is perhaps the most popular option, but in order to successfully carry it out on the site, it is important to choose the right installation.

A house made of gas blocks and the collective mind of members of the forum. Water supply and electrics. In the review of the guest house, built with the participation of several specialists at once with FORUMHOUSE, we will discuss how to arrange domestic water supply and electricity.

House from the picture. Communication. Each developer has its own history of communications. Someone has to start from scratch, someone has to redo, and someone is lucky. The hero of the plot, Alexey, belongs to the latter. In the village near Moscow, where they bought the land, there was electricity, local water supply, and even gas. And still, even this happy accident was not without difficulties and alterations. Some things, video surveillance, special "smart" watering from hoses with holes and multi-room, this amazing man did himself - based on the principle of reasonable spending and to be sure of reliability. A generally sad story happened with the septic tank. For more information on engineering systems, see the plot.

Outbuilding with wood log, outdoor shower and ecological toilet. In order not to waste the area of the site on various buildings, Andrei Bugaev decided to arrange a summer shower, a firewood and a toilet in the same room. And in order not to clog the ground and the well with sewage from the toilet, he made the structure environmentally friendly.

Topics on the forum:

Do you need ventilation in a private house; if the bathroom is only on the first floor, will one water seal be enough or two will be required; how to properly organize the sewage system so that there is no smell, what materials will be required - portal users discuss in the topic. Lots of photos.

How to arrange a sewage system in a house so that it suits neighbors and legislation. How to choose a place, at a distance of how many meters from the house and from neighbors to correctly place the sewage system in accordance with the standards, as well as controversial issues arising during the design and installation of the sewage system.

The choice of the type of treatment facilities depends on the soil, the level of groundwater, the mode of residence (permanently or intermittently), the availability of electricity, the volume of water consumption, and the budget. How to choose which installation to run - FORUMHOUSE members share tips. Here you can see how the correct sewerage system should look like in a private house, the photos give a visual representation.

How to properly lay pipes - in a trench made of brick or on sand, how should the exit to the toilet be arranged, how to make a riser, where to lead insulated pipes - inside the washing room or under it - in this topic, users discuss pressing issues. Useful photos will help you understand the structure of the processes.

Clogging of pipes is one of the troubles that can happen if they are not laid correctly. How and at what angle you need to put the sewer pipe so that nothing gets stuck, what else needs to be done for this - the topic contains a lot of useful information, diagrams and photos.

Some homeowners believe that nothing else needs to be poured into the septic tank - "everything will be fine by itself." Others are sure that with a non-permanent residence, such an approach can lead to the formation of a stone. We figure out how to do it right.

Vladimir43 presented to the readers' attention a new drainage system based on a conventional septic tank with a wide mouth, which is supplemented with a composting module consisting of a composting (storage) tank and a grease trap. Topikstarter talks about the benefits of the system, and you can also learn about how the tests are carried out.

A sewage system made in a private house with your own hands is, of course, a source of pride for the owner. Although it is quite possible to order a turnkey project, and then the installation will be performed correctly by high-level specialists. Indeed, in addition to sewerage, a water supply system is required, which is not an easy task to lay.

1 Why do you need sewerage for a private house
- 1.1 Factors affecting the choice of the type of sewage in a private house
2 Types
- 2.1 Water supply
- 2.2 Choosing a location for the sewer system

Why do you need a sewage system for a private house

Few of those who live in an apartment have a question about the need for a sewage system or a water supply system. Their installation was carried out a long time ago; this is a natural thing for an apartment.

But not every private house can boast of having the same water supply and sewerage system as in multi-storey city apartments. Therefore, the laying of sewers in a private house is often done independently.

Why is it needed? It's simple. Sewerage and water supply system gives comfort, coziness, provides a person with the benefits of civilization.

If you put these systems into a private house construction project, then there should be no problems. It is much more difficult if the sewerage and water supply scheme is installed in an already built house.

The project of the future sewage system can be carried out according to two schemes:

Inside the building there is a shower and a sink, and the toilet is outside. Such a project is quite simple, since it dispenses with the complicated laying of the pipeline and treatment facilities. The sewage pipe is removed from the house, a simple waste treatment system is created on the site, that is, a sewer pit;
Sink, shower and toilet inside. Here, the wastewater treatment system is required more complicated so as not to pollute your own site and the water near it with waste. You will definitely need a septic tank.

Factors affecting the choice of the type of sewage in a private house

Pay attention to several important factors that will allow you to correctly select a sewer system for a private house, use a suitable project to create water supply and drainage:

The house is used for temporary or permanent residence;
The number of people regularly living in the house;
Daily indicator of water consumption, taking into account all consumers (taps, shower, toilet, washing machine, dishwasher, etc.);
Groundwater level;
The size of the site, which determines the available space for the cleaning system;
Soil type, its structure;
Climatic features;
SNIP requirements.

Views

In general, all sewerage systems can be divided into just two types:

Accumulative;
Wastewater treatment systems.

But it would be correct to consider a more detailed classification, since the difference between the same type of sewage and water supply systems can be significant.

Cesspools without a bottom. Such a sewage system in a private house is relevant only if it is used for 5-6 days a month without consuming a large amount of water. The groundwater level should be about a meter below the pit, otherwise water pollution cannot be avoided. An unpopular option today.
Accumulative sealed containers. An option to solve the problem of high groundwater levels. The soil is protected from contamination. But there is a drawback - you will often have to call the pumping machine. And for this, the place is calculated correctly so that the car can easily drive up and pump out the waste.
Single chamber septic tanks. The simplest soil cleaning option, which is not much different from a cesspool. If people permanently live in the house and actively use water, it is not recommended to choose such a project. It is a temporary residence system where the water table is low.
Two-chamber septic tanks. Such a project is allowed for implementation only if the depth of the groundwater allows, even during a flood, to be 1 meter lower than the bottom of the second tank. Approximately every 5 years, the crushed stone and sand used for installation must be changed.
Septic tank equipped with a filtration field. This system includes biological and soil treatment at the same time. The container is divided into two sections. It is allowed to install such a sewage system when groundwater is at a level of 2.5-3 meters at least. It requires a fairly large free area, it is located at least 30 meters from the nearest water sources and neighboring buildings.
Septic tanks with biofilters. Almost the best scheme for private houses with people permanently living in it. Special microorganisms are added by simply pouring them into the toilet. There are no particular restrictions, but an electrical connection is required.
Forced air systems. The so-called aerotanks, which are expensive, but in many ways justify the investment. They have no installation restrictions, but they require people to live permanently and have a source of electricity. The minimum price of the system is about 4 thousand dollars.

Water supply

In many ways, one or another sewage project can be implemented based on the water supply system. If there are problems with it, it will be difficult to create an effective drainage system.

Many people prefer to use concrete rings to create wells, wells. The installation of concrete rings is carried out by specialists using the appropriate equipment and technology.

First, develop a water supply project, which will allow you to determine what kind of sewage system will be on your site.

The laying of concrete rings, the depth of which depends on the occurrence of groundwater, is trusted on a turnkey basis. Turnkey work is the most profitable and rational. It is unlikely that it will be possible to organize the well independently.

In some situations, it is possible to avoid the use of concrete rings - a centralized water supply system is connected to a private house. This is not uncommon today. But it is important to note that your own well has its own advantages:

This is your individual water source;
Ordering a turnkey project for drilling a well and laying concrete rings is not as expensive as it seems at first glance;
The quality of water from the well is much higher than that supplied through the polluted pipes of the centralized system;
The task of concrete rings is not only to shape and maintain the shape of the well, but also to keep the water clean;
It is not difficult to connect a pump to a well. Through it, water will flow into your home, ensure the operation of the entire water supply and sewerage system.

Choosing a place for the sewer system

We figured out that organizing a turnkey well and installing concrete rings is a profitable solution for a private house and creating a water supply.

Since sewerage and water supply are two inextricably linked systems, it is extremely important to choose the right place for the location of the first one.

By choosing a suitable site, you will ensure that your sewage system works more efficiently and safely. You need to focus not only on SNIP, but also some other nuances:

The slope of the land. The runoff will drain faster and not create blockages if you make a slope. It is also reasonable to use the unevenness of the site itself for this.
Despite the types of systems, each sewage scheme provides for periodic pumping of waste. Some require ongoing measures to recover the effluent. Therefore, consider the possibility for a convenient entrance of the flusher so that he does not harm the site, but at the same time calmly drives up to the hatch.
Locate the system away from residential buildings, buildings, fences and water supply systems. The protection of the concrete rings will definitely not be enough to prevent waste that has seeped through the soil.

Who knows, you may be able to do without rings, organize a simple sewage system and spend a minimum of effort and money. Some projects are necessarily completed on a turnkey basis, since it is simply impossible to implement it with your own hands.

If you are going to call the masters, make sure that they are professionals in their field. Complex sewage equipment requires experienced hands during installation, and also requires users to adhere to certain operating rules. Only in this way the sewerage and water supply system will work for a long time and efficiently.

Sewer drains in the house must be collected and directed to the central sewer or to or to.

This task is performed by the piping system inside and outside the house - internal and external sewerage.

How to properly lay sewer pipes in a private house

The sewer diagram shows two vertical pipes crossing the house from basement to roof - these are sewer risers, which collect drains from nearby sanitary appliances.

Waste from sanitary appliances is moved by gravity to the sewer risers, and from there to horizontal drain pipes and further to the outlet of the external sewage system.

Features of the movement of sewage through sewer pipes

When developing a sewerage scheme, be guided by the following.

With a salvo discharge of water through the toilet, a portion of water filling all, or almost all, of the section of the sewer pipe, moving along the pipe, acts like a piston. A vacuum is created behind the water flow in the pipe, which, if there is no ventilation, sucks water from the siphons of sanitary appliances connected to the pipe downstream.

A pressure builds up ahead of the water flow, which pushes water out of the siphons of sanitary appliances connected upstream.

The effect of increasing the pressure in the pipe is usually less pronounced, since the sewer pipe in front usually has an open outlet at the end. Discharging in pipes with an incorrect sewerage system in the house often leads to the suction of water from the siphons of sanitary appliances and odors in the house.

Similar processes in sewer pipes can occur:

When emptying the bathtub or when draining water from the washing machine under the pressure generated by the pump.
In very long pipes from sanitary fittings to the riser.
With a large difference in height between the beginning and end of the liner pipe.

Rules for laying sewage in the house

When developing a sewerage scheme for a private house, the following rules are observed:

1. The toilet must have a separate connection to the riser. No other sanitary appliances should be connected to the pipe between the toilet bowl and the riser. Failure to comply with this rule may lead to the fact that when the toilet is flushed along the full section of the pipe, water will be sucked out of the siphons of other sanitary devices.

2. The connection to the riser on the floor of other sanitary devices should not be lower than the connection point of the toilet bowl. Otherwise, when flushing the toilet, waste water may appear in the drain hole of adjacent appliances.

Other sanitary appliances, besides the toilet, may have one common pipe to the riser.

3. When choosing the diameter of the pipes, they are guided by the rule - the diameter of the supply pipe to the riser should not be less than the diameter of the drain pipe of the sanitary device. If several devices are connected to one pipe of the supply line, then the diameter of the pipe is taken over the largest section of the branch pipe of the connected devices.

The diameter of the riser pipe should not be less than the diameter of the toilet drain pipe - 100 mm.; or 50 mm.- for a riser without a toilet.

4. The length of the supply pipe to the riser from the toilet should be no more than 1 m. The length of pipes for connections from other sanitary devices is not more than 3 m. For longer connections (up to 5 meters), it is necessary to increase the pipe diameter to 70-75 mm. Liners longer than 5 m made of pipes with a diameter of 100-110 mm. It is not necessary to increase the diameter of the supply pipes if the upper ends of the supply pipes are ventilated using an aeration vacuum valve or by connecting the supply pipe to the ventilation pipe of the riser. The length of the piping to the toilet can be increased by ventilating the end connected to the toilet.

5. The slope of the pipes for effective self-cleaning should be within 2 - 15% (2 - 15 cm. per meter of length). The difference in height between the beginning and the end of the piping to the toilet should not exceed 1 m. For other connections - no more than 3 m. If the height difference is greater, then ventilation of the upper end of the liner is necessary.

6. Avoid the installation of corner fittings with an angle of 90 degrees on pipe bends. The angles of rotation and connection of pipes must be formed smooth, from standard parts with an angle of 135 degrees in the direction of the fluid flow.

7. Sewer pipes are laid with a bell in the direction - against the flow.

8. Be sure to perform ventilation of the risers. For this, the pipes of the risers are brought up, at least 0.5 m. above the roof surface. Lack of ventilation leads to the appearance of a vacuum in the pipes when draining water, emptying the siphons of sanitary devices and to the appearance of a sewage smell in the house and on the site. The ventilation of the sewer pipe should not be associated with natural ventilation ducts in the premises.

9. For ventilation of risers and connections, in the cases indicated above, an aeration vacuum valve is installed at the upper end of the room. The aeration valve only lets air into the inside of the pipe, but does not release gases outside. The operation of the valve prevents the formation of a vacuum in the pipe, which leads to the emptying of the siphons of sanitary devices. If an aeration valve is installed, it is not required to ventilate such a riser. But ventilation of at least one riser in the house should be done without fail.

10. It is necessary to provide for noise insulation of sewer risers. For this, it is better to place the risers in the niches of the walls, cover them with a layer of mineral wool, and sheathe the niches with plasterboard.

11. The riser pipe at the floor level is rigidly fixed. On the floor, between the ceilings, the pipes are connected and fixed so as to ensure movement during thermal deformations. On the lower floor of the house, in an accessible place, a hatch is installed in the riser - an audit.

12. Horizontal pipes connecting the risers and the outlet of the external sewage system are laid in the basement of the house along the walls, in the ground under the floor. Every 15 m. and at each turn, a revision hatch is installed in the pipes.

13. The diameter of the horizontal pipes must be no less than the diameter of the riser pipes. The angles of rotation and connection of pipes are made at an angle of no more than 60 degrees. Pipes laid in the unheated part of the house are insulated.

It's dangerous to do that! A horizontal groove in the wall for sewer pipes reduces the strength of the walls. The possibility of arranging a horizontal groove in the wall must be confirmed by the calculation of the designer.

A device for laying sewer pipes of a vertical niche in the wall, for the entire height of the floor, or a horizontal groove, leads to a weakening of the strength of the wall. You should not make niches and grooves anywhere, at your own peril and risk. Niches and grooves with a depth of more than 3 cm. for laying communications in the walls should be provided for in the project of the house.

It is allowed, without agreement with the designer, to arrange vertical grooves in the lower part of the wall to a height of no more than 1/3 of the floor height.

External sewer outlet

Sewerage outlet - the outer section of the pipe from the house, is connected to the well of the central sewerage system of the village (if any), or to a drainless storage septic tank for the removal of wastewater by a sewage machine, or to a septic tank of local treatment facilities at the site.

Outside, directly near the house, it is recommended to install a revision well on the exhaust pipe. It is recommended to install a non-return valve in the well in the pipe. The valve will prevent flooding of the underground part of the building (for example, when a septic tank is overflowing) and prevent rodents from entering the house through the sewer pipes.

The outer pipe at the exit from the inspection well is connected to the central sewerage system or to the septic tank of the autonomous sewerage system of a private house.

The outer pipe to the septic tank is laid with a slope of 2.5 - 3%, at a depth of about 0.4 m. If the length of the release is more than 5 m., then the pipe is insulated along its entire length with a shell made of polystyrene or extruded polystyrene foam.

The outlet pipe should not be buried.- otherwise, this will lead to the need to install a septic tank at a great depth, which will cost more and complicate the operation of the septic tank.

Siphon in the sewer

The drain pipe of each sanitary device is connected to the supply pipe through a siphon. The siphon is a U-shaped elbow, in the lower part of which there is always a layer of drained liquid.

Some sanitary appliances, such as the toilet, have a built-in siphon. A layer of water in the siphon serves as a barrier for gases, preventing them from escaping from the sewer pipe into the room.

The siphon of a sanitary device may not be filled with water and let gases into the room in the following cases:

With prolonged inactivity of the sanitary device, the water in the siphon dries up. For the period of inactivity (more than two weeks), it is recommended to close the drain holes of the sanitary devices.
When sucking water from the siphon as a result of the vacuum created in the pipes. The risk of water suction from siphons increases with increasing length and decreasing diameter of the supply pipe, as well as in the absence of ventilation of risers and long supply pipes.

Sewage pumps with a chopper for home

The drains move in the sewer pipes by gravity, due to the laying of pipes with a slope.

However, situations sometimes arise in the house when it is difficult to create the necessary slope of pipes from sanitary appliances. For example, if a sanitary room is installed in the basement of a house. Or it is necessary to move the drains a considerable distance (from the bath), but the required pipe slope cannot be created.

A fecal pump with a chopper is attached to the toilet. The pump receives waste water from the washbasin.

To receive and forcibly move wastewater, special electric fecal pumps are installed. The fecal pump has a device for crushing the contents of the effluents and pumping them into the upper pipes of the sewer system.

A pump for forced movement of wastewater is installed after each sanitary device or for pumping wastewater from a group of closely located sanitary devices.

The fecal pump can lift wastewater to a height of 10 meters and move it by several tens of meters.

Air supply to sewer pipes for ventilation occurs through the open end of the pipe in a septic tank or a receiving well of the central sewerage system. The outlet of the sewer pipe, through which the waste flows from the house to the septic tank, should always be above the level of drains in it.

On the processes occurring during the movement of sewage through the sewer pipes, on the device and the correct use of the aeration valve watch this video:

Sewerage options - sewage disposal from a private house

What to do with drains in a private house if there is no central sewerage system nearby ?!

There are two drainage options- drainage of waste water from a private house:

Drain water into an endless storage septic tank (tank, cesspool) with periodic, as it is filled, pumping out and removing wastewater by a sewage machine to the treatment facilities of the nearest settlement.
Arrangement of local treatment facilities at the site and discharge of treated water into the natural environment - into the ground or onto the relief.

The first method provides the lowest construction cost sewage systems, but the annual operating costs (waste disposal) can be significant.

Sewerage option with local treatment facilities is more costly during construction, but can provide lower running costs for system maintenance.

Methods for cleaning sewage drains of a private house

In local treatment facilities, a biological method of purifying wastewater from pollution is used. Wastewater treatment is carried out by microorganisms capable of decomposing organic pollution. The main task of biological treatment is to remove organic substances from wastewater. Biochemical reactions occurring in the process of biological treatment partially remove from the effluent and many chemical elements, reducing their concentration in the wastewater.

Distinguish anaerobic(bacteria without oxygen access) and aerobic(bacteria in the presence of oxygen) biological treatment processes.

Two types of local sewage treatment plants for a private house

For wastewater treatment of a private house, use:

Anaerobic septic tanks, supplemented by ground treatment facilities with filter drainage through the soil layer. In the ground filters, the wastewater treatment process takes place with the help of aerobic bacteria.
Active septic tanks- treatment devices, in which the process of intensive biological wastewater treatment with the help of aerobic bacteria has been established. Treated wastewater after an active septic tank, as a rule, is discharged into the ground or onto the relief.

First option, anaerobic septic tank with drainage into the ground, as a rule, cheaper in design and operation. Here, in the treatment facilities, conditions are created for the vital activity of microorganisms that are close to natural. A simple device ensures long-term and reliable operation of the sewage system.

The second option with an active septic tank- more expensive and more difficult to operate. An active septic tank is a high-tech factory-made apparatus, in which artificial conditions are created for the vital activity of aerobic microorganisms, which significantly speeds up the cleaning process.

Sewerage of a private house with an active septic tank provides the highest degree of wastewater treatment. Treated wastewater from an active septic tank is directed into the ground through the drainage system. With waterproof soils on the site, the drains are discharged onto the relief, into a ditch.

An active septic tank requires an electrical connection, does not tolerate long interruptions in the supply of drains, is sensitive to power outages, needs constant monitoring of work, as well as timely repair and maintenance.

Advantages - small dimensions, quick installation, independence from soil conditions on the site. For an economy-class house, it makes sense to use an active septic tank if there is not enough space on the site for placing a ground filter drainage or with a high level of groundwater.

Treatment of sewage drains of a private house in an active septic tank Topas

The autonomous sewage system Topas is an effective and rational solution for the private sector, country and country estates, where it is impossible to connect to the central sewage system. Many consumers have already appreciated the presented system and characterize it from the best side, but what is it?

Septic tank Topas is a system of accumulation and treatment of waste water, as a result of which the purest industrial water is brought to the surface. The range of such devices is very wide - each buyer can choose the optimal product that can serve both a separate private house and a small cottage village.

The essence of the autonomous sewage system Topas

In the production of Topas septic tanks, expanded polypropylene is used; additionally, the storage chambers are equipped with stiffening ribs. This production technology allows you to achieve the following device parameters:

High strength characteristics.
Installation of the system in all weather conditions.
System operation even in winter time.
Independence from the type of soil and the level of groundwater.

Let's note some advantages of an autonomous sewage system:

high level of water purification;
there is no need to equip additional aeration sites;
long service life;
compact size, which allows you to install a septic tank in a minimum space;
environmental friendliness;
ease of maintenance with a minimum of labor costs, financial costs and no need to call special equipment;
secondary products of processing can be used as fertilizer, and purified water for irrigation of plantings;
no extraneous odors, noise;
absolute tightness of the structure.

It is worth noting and cons of the system, although it is difficult to call it cons:

dependence on electricity;
the high cost of the product, but over time the costs will pay off;
for installation, you will need to call a team of specialists, although independent installation is possible.

The principle of operation of an active septic tank

The principle of operation of an autonomous sewage system can be divided into several stages:

Wastewater enters the receiving chamber, where it is cleaned from impurities and heavy contaminants. The filling level of the chamber is regulated; after filling, the drains enter the aeration tank.
The aeration process takes place, as a result of which the sewage is treated with oxygen and special bacteria.
Treated wastewater accumulates in a sump, from where the sludge settling at the bottom is subsequently pumped out.
The process water flows into the stabilizer, from where it can be disposed of in the ground or used, for example, for irrigation.

Rules for the operation of an active septic tank Topas

Any model of the Topas septic tank is supplied with detailed operating instructions, but we will highlight a few rules that must be followed:

In the event of a power outage, try to limit the flow of wastewater into the collection chamber to avoid overflow.
Do not allow aggressive chemicals, alkalis, acids, etc. to enter the system. - they will destroy the beneficial microorganisms of the device.
Do not throw garbage into the sewer that is not intended for it - food scraps, bags, plastic, and other solid household waste.
The sludge is cleaned twice a year.
Some parts of the device are subject to mandatory replacement, for example, "Air Mac" compressor membranes - every 2 years, aeration elements - every 12 years.

Installation of an active septic tank Topas

The installation of an autonomous sewage system will not bring any particular difficulties, the whole process is divided into several stages:

Searching for a place where a septic tank will be installed - a distance of at least 5 meters must be maintained from the foundation of the buildings, while it is worth remembering about the trenches, foundation pit, drainage point that must be dug.
Digging a pit, the dimensions of which vary depending on the size of the station. If the type of soil is unstable, formwork will have to be installed.
Laying a sand or concrete cushion to prevent the station from floating up. For small models, a sand cushion is arranged, and for stations designed to serve a large number of users, a concrete cushion.
Installation of the station in the pit - manual or automatic method.
Sewer pipe laying.
Sealing of sewer pipes at the points of their connection with the device. A special polypropylene cord supplied with the station is used.
Connecting the power cord that runs underground in the corrugated pipe.
Backfilling with soil is the last stage, in which water is simultaneously poured into the pit to a depth of 35 cm and covered with sand. The station must be completely submerged in the ground, otherwise the external pressure will not normalize.

Selecting a stand-alone station model

When choosing a septic tank Topas, the following factors should be considered:

the number of future users;
the depth of the drain pipe;
method method of discharge of treated effluents - forced or free.

Any model of Topas septic tank will last a long time, subject to the rules of operation and installation. It is worth contacting professionals who will not only quickly and competently provide all services for the selection, installation of an autonomous station, but also provide warranty obligations for all installation work.

How to make an anaerobic septic tank and ground treatment facilities for autonomous sewage in a private house with your own hands