How and what to repair a crack in a wall - effective ways. How to repair a crack in a wall: tips on choosing a material, known ways to deal with holes, secrets for beginners How to cover cracks in a wall with a solution

I saw several written requests on my mailbox, where people asked to tell me why in the walls, and how to seal them up. It turned out that everything they knew and did earlier did not work. No method saved them from new formations. So I decided to write this article.

It's been a long time since I spoke to anyone on this topic, and I came across similar works about a dozen years ago, so I decided to update my knowledge and see that big minds managed to come up with something new in this regard. By the way, we always try to give you the latest information so that you keep up with the times. After all, they often invent something new, and it is often cheaper and more effective to use it.

Understanding the essence of the problem

Well, let's start by defining the types of cracks. Yes, they are radically different from each other, dividing into two types. The first is erosional cracks resulting from a process called erosion, although weathering may also be involved. So, erosion is a process of destruction that is associated with time, with the influence of mold, precipitation, wind or thermal expansion.

For example, we have a wall that was plastered with ordinary cheap cement, and even in a ratio of 1/3. Yes, the plaster sticks and looks beautiful. But it absorbs moisture and crumbles due to the lack of molecular bonds. As a result, water penetrates into it, washing out all our binding elements from the top layer.

When it's time for autumn rains, they abundantly saturate and soak everything around with moisture. The wall does not have time to dry thoroughly before winter, and the moisture freezes, and at the same time it very much increases in volume. Try filling a glass bottle with water and placing it in the freezer. You will see that as soon as it freezes, it will crack the bottle with ease. And if it is a metal container, it will simply bend or inflate.

So, the same happens in the thickness of the plaster, water tears it apart from the inside. See how much is there? So, all these factors, of course, over time destroy the surface layer more and more. And what is the result? That's right, microcracks appear. The length of each of them is approximately 1 cm.

If they are not sealed, then even more water will get into them, or some other factors will act doubly and will increase the cracked places several times. If in this case they are not covered up, then after some time such plaster will fall off altogether.

In general, you get the idea, we have now described an example of an erosion crack on the surface of a building plaster. Exactly the same can be indoors. For example, if the wrong cement composition was selected, then it may not react too quickly to thermal expansion and also crack.

There is another kind. For example, if we talk about a very old brick house, which was not finished with plaster, but simply a brick was laid under the jointing. Yes, here erosion, even over a long period of time, will not be able to do anything to a brick, that is, compressed and fired clay.

The erosion is likely to wash out the suture cement, which can result in small cracks in the brick wall. If the cement from the joints is washed out enough to remove the bulk of the load, where will it lie? Of course, either to the rest of the concrete in the seam, or it will go down to a more whole area, and then it will overcome it.

All this, it would seem, is nonsense. But tell me, what is the task of the plaster? That's right - to prevent harmful factors from reaching the main wall. And I will tell you that even plaster with minor defects can cope with this. The cracks that have appeared are the result of your savings, because the wrong kind of cement was chosen. Either you did not know about the existence of another, or simply saved.

After all, cement mortars can be anything. For example, decorative, heat-resistant, structural, lightweight, dense, porous, binding, stressing, radiation-shielding, polymer, chemical, heavy and from several dozen different!

Yes, you will not find them in ordinary hardware stores, because it is profitable for the buyer to purchase only one type, the cheapest, and sell it to you with the highest mark-up. But, as you can see, if you want, you can choose a special one for any type of work. Well, not about that now.

In general, the plaster described above does its job, that is, it protects the main walls from destruction. And if you have saved money on it on purpose or not, then please, patch it up a little, and everything will be fine. We will describe how to do this later.

Now comes the fun part. I'm almost 100% sure that you asked for advice not because you need to fix a dozen tiny cracks, but because you have a real problem with the formation of significant cracks. If you have not small cracks on your wall, but large ones, half a meter long, and they arose not just on the plaster, but in the body of the main, that is, the load-bearing wall, then you have not an erosion crack, but a real one deformation.

Remember for the rest of your life, a deformation crack never just arises, and you will never eliminate it by any kind of smearing. If you have such a thing, then you need to fight not with it, but only with the cause of its occurrence.

So, let's figure out what are the causes of deformation cracks, we will list them.

Excessive one-sided foundation shrinkage

The worst kind of deformation. In addition, this is the most common situation, it is found everywhere. If the foundation was not poured according to the technology, if dozens of conditions for its pouring were not observed, then it may crack. As a result, the wall on it will also crack. In this case, a shear will occur - not a shift, but a shear - of static loads, and the entire structure will begin to move in relation to the axis, which will succumb to this movement.

Yes, this is a little difficult to understand. Let's sketch out what we are talking about:

As you can see, part of wall “A” starts to move. This movement can be both vertical and horizontal. In any case, this is an extremely serious building malfunction. And in the event of such a nuisance, we are faced with global work.

Many people advise foaming the crack, covering it up, and that's it. But if you think rationally, you can realize that, on average, a square meter of a wall weighs about a ton. There are, of course, 500 kg, and there are 5 tons - it doesn't matter. So, a part of the wall weighing 20-30 tons goes down, while also pushing through the foundation. Solving such a colossal problem with a simple putty is simply unrealistic. Well, nothing, more on that later.

Damage to the foundation due to damage to the blind area

The blind area is connected to the plinth and is an element that protects the foundation from water. So, if the blind area is damaged, water begins to flow into the foundation space. It liquefies the soil and accelerates shrinkage.

If the thickness of the freezing layer reaches the level of water in the foundation, then when it freezes, it similarly begins its destructive effect. And when destroyed, we get, again, the consequence that was described above.

Thermal expansion

There is a problem with this, but quite rarely. The indoor atmosphere does not change quickly. The house is like a thermos in which the temperature is constantly maintained. Inside, it is practically equal to the temperatures of the walls of the room. If it is -10 on the street, and +25 in the room, then there is a constant heat exchange. From heating devices to the walls, from the walls to the atmosphere and vice versa. So, the temperature inside, as you know, does not change, and thermal expansion is either absent altogether, or extremely insignificant.

Now let's imagine a house in which there was no window for several years. For example, at your dacha it was broken, but you did not see it or decided not to insert it. So what happens when you do this? The weather outside changes very quickly. In the autumn-winter period, it often happens that the temperature is +2 during the day, and at night it drops to -8. As you remember, we have a broken window, and the temperature in the room changes at exactly the same rate as outside.

The walls of a building, having heated up during the day, cool down very quickly at night, and vice versa. So they begin to play like an accordion: now they have expanded, now they have narrowed. Since the rate of temperature change is high, the speed of this “game” is also high. And concrete or brick walls are not an accordion, so they cannot withstand, they burst.

In this case, only the walls burst, and the foundation remains intact. Although it is difficult to eliminate such a malfunction, it is possible. At the same time, it is realistic to make it seem as if it did not exist.

Constructive changes

With these, deformation cracks also occur. To make you understand faster, we will tell you with an example. Let's say you bought a house, and there is a column in the middle of the hall, and you have it - like an eyesore. I don't like it, for the life of me. You, without thinking for a long time, demolish it, and after six months you begin, bewildered, ask: why are the walls cracking?

Well, how can they not crack and not burst if you demolished the support beam, on which the lion's share of the load was located. The walls took on a load they weren't designed for and began to burst. Everything is simple and sad. If you have a similar situation, then now you have serious work ahead of you, which we will describe below.

Rotting, damaged stiffeners or support beams

Cracks can also occur for this reason. If, for example, you have a two-story building, and the span over the window was built using not a channel, but a wooden beam, then when it can no longer bear the load, what will happen? That's right, at this point the wall will burst, or something worse will happen.

The same goes for damage to stiffeners or concrete lintels. If, for example, there was a seismic beam in your apartment, but you did not like it, and you unauthorizedly demolished it, get ready for serious problems and punishment, because cracks are now inevitable. And they will arise not only for you, but also for all neighbors, who will definitely call the BTI.

Let's say you live in your private house, which you recently bought, you have one room on the top empty, and you decide to put a lathe there. Yes, somehow you manage to put it in there, you are glad and everything is fine. A month later, they discovered that you had a finger-thick crack on the wall. Strange, yes, where did it come from?

Well, of course! You put a machine, the minimum weight of which is 3 tons, on an area of ​​three squares. And the plate that took the load began to press with a huge mass on the section of the wall, which, as a result, could not stand it and burst.

Eliminate erosion cracks

Let's move on to the "sweetest" part of our story. I say this because everything is done very simply and does not require much effort. Understand that all your actions should be aimed only at preventing the penetration of the damaging factor into the body of the crack, and nothing more.

If your goal is to prevent their occurrence, then it is pointless, you still will not be able to do it. Unless you can treat the surface with a strengthening primer, but the effect of this is minimal. So, in order to eliminate erosion cracks, do the work in the following sequence.

1. Since you still have to worsen the visual condition of the wall by applying or some other solution to it, leaving stains, then treat the entire wall with a strengthening compound. It will not be superfluous. And if you do not want to do this manipulation with the entire wall, then apply it only to the crack and, preferably, into its cavity too. This can be done with a syringe or a spray bottle, which, for example, you have left over from the window cleaner.
2. Dilute the solution, and it is better not a gypsum-based putty or cement, but, for example, tile glue or a similar composition. Such products bind better to the surface, and in this case your putty will definitely not fall out of the wall.
3. We collect glue or some other solution into a large syringe or similar device and press it into the crack. Sometimes I even took a tight bag, poured a little glue into it, cut off a corner (a very tiny piece), and worked with it like a pastry bag. Just do not press, otherwise the bag will disperse at the seam.
4. We fill the crack until our solution begins to bulge out of it.
5. We take the spatulas and run from above, leveling our solution along the plane of the wall.

That's all. We carry out such manipulations with all our cracks. Upon completion of the work, it will be superfluous to prime everything again.

Elimination of deformation cracks

And this is the most serious, hard and thorough job. We will have to spend well and physically work. So, information for general understanding. If the foundation has been damaged, it is useless to make the wall, the foundation needs to be repaired. If there was damage to the wall without damaging the foundation, then the wall must be sewn. If a seismic beam, stiffener or some other support has been damaged, then it must be restored.

I won't go into much detail on the restoration of beams and other support elements. Remember the main thing: you have to not just restore this beam, weld it with reinforcement and concrete. We will have to transfer to it the load that was there before, and this is done either molecularly or with the use of jacks.

Now let's talk about the first two types of work.

Rebuilding the foundation

In order to do this, carry out the work in the following sequence.

Everything, this is the end of the work. Now, as soon as the old foundation moves even a millimeter, the new foundation will take its load on itself, they are now tightly connected. All that remains for you is to plaster the crack. Only plastering should be done after at least two months. The whole structure must "play" and lie on a new foundation. If you plaster the next day, then a month later you will see a tiny crack again. This is exactly the distance that was needed in order for everything to rest on a new foundation. And if you did everything right, then you will never remember her again.

So, friends are eliminated cracks once and for all, and not just smeared over and forgotten. Understand that if you smear it, it will give absolutely nothing. By the way, we somehow restored the building of the kindergarten, which burst during the earthquake. So, we measured the shrinkage by gluing a ruler to one side of the crack and measuring the divergence. It was cosmic 2 mm per month, which is critical.

Thus, we completely restored the emergency building, and then the quality of our work was checked by gluing strips of glass to the control points of the cracks. None of them burst to this day, since we have always given a guarantee, and every year we are interested in how our foundation stands there.

How walls are sewn

If cracks appeared on the walls for any reason, you examined everything and did not find damage to the basement, then the foundation is intact and you will have to sew up the walls. So, the work required depends on the type of damage, of which there are also two. The first is local damage and the second is global.

With local damage, that is, with damage to a small area, small and uncomplicated work is required. And if the damage is global, for example, your entire building has burst, then you will have to do something more difficult.

So, local type of damage... These include small cracks one meter long, +/- 50 cm. These are closed as follows.

Global damage... They are eliminated in exactly the same way as local ones. Only there, as you already understood, the crack is twice as large, and therefore we still have to do something else.

We'll have to throw several reinforcement belts over the entire building. This is how it is done.

1. We mark lines around the entire perimeter, at a distance of 50 cm from each other. We make as many of them as fit. If the damage to the walls is not so strong, then we do it at a distance of 1 meter from each other.
2. We make grooves 20 mm deep along the entire length of the marked lines.
3. We put the reinforcement along the entire length in one strobe. And we grab it there with a few strokes of alabaster or putty - no matter what it is, the main thing is to hold on.
4. And now the most difficult part, here you have to work as a team. So, let's take the cutter. As you know, this is an oxygen and propane cutter. So, we take a cutter and warm up all our fittings. We do it as hard as possible. If its length does not exceed 6 meters, then great, with a cutter you can heat it all red-hot, this will be ideal.
5. As soon as the reinforcement turns red, and it should be at least 16 mm in diameter, then we grab the other two segments close to the wall from both of its edges. And they did not just stick it with slag from the electrode, but made a high-quality solid seam. Because we are doing a tense pulling coupling, and it will be constantly under load.
6. We proceed to warming up the next one and repeat the same operations.
7. Once all the belts are welded, plaster.

Well, in the end, as soon as the metal cools down, the entire contour pulls together our house with tremendous force. By heating the metal, the molecules expanded and the length of the armature increased. Then she returned to her previous position, only there she already had points of support - other fittings, which pulled everything together, like a stranglehold. And now your walls will never crack again, they will be constantly rigidly restrained by reinforcing belts. It is like a woman's corset that tightens the waist.

Well, friends, as you can see, everything is not as simple as you expected. In another article, we will tell you how you could have avoided such serious problems. Because it is always easier to prevent than to correct what is already spoiled.

I hope our story was useful to you. I want to tell you in the end that our goal was to write an introductory article, and not hard technical literature, so it should not be relied on as an instruction for use. And as you understand, only you are responsible for all the actions you have taken. Therefore, approach all work wisely and carefully, and you will never have any problems. Good luck!

Concrete coatings are used in a wide variety of areas: when installing floors, concreting surfaces in both industrial and residential buildings, the construction of highways and much more. However, concrete has a low tensile strength, therefore, during the hardening process, the mixture shrinks a little and the structures shrink. Because of this, small and more serious defects appear on the surface. In this case, filling of cracks in concrete is required, which is carried out using different technologies, depending on the type of damage and the reason for its occurrence.

Types of cracks in concrete

Some beginners or unscrupulous builders prefer to simply cover up a hole or any other defect with putty or mortar. However, before repairing a hole or crack in a concrete wall and other foundations, it is worthwhile to figure out what exactly caused such troubles.

There are several types of defects:

• Superficial. Such cracks often appear after the foundation is poured in the process of drying out the sand-cement mortar, if the mixture was prepared without observing the required proportions of the components, poor-quality components were used, or there was not enough water in the mixture.
• Shrinkage (also called hairline cracks). Defects of this type are considered the most dangerous, since they cause not only deformation of the fundamental foundation, but of the entire building as a whole. This leads to a decrease in strength. Flaws of this type appear when the load on the foundation is uneven and when the cement composition is incorrectly selected.

• Temperature shrinkage. Slots of this type appear during the hardening of the concrete base due to the exothermic reaction that occurs between cement and water. Very often, when erecting walls and floors, novice builders do not take into account the freedom of deformation, as a result of which temperature stress occurs in the concrete mass and defects appear on the surface.
• Cracks and holes that appear due to poor-quality reinforcement. If the frame for strengthening the structure is too weak, then it will bend under loads, which will also lead to the formation of defects. In addition, the reinforcing rods can begin to oxidize. Due to the appearance of corrosion, the material increases in size, tearing apart the concrete mass from the inside.

Outdoor concrete surfaces are also susceptible to cracking. The environment contains chemically active substances that create a fertile ground for the appearance of defects.

In addition, sharp temperature drops, which can occur both on the surface and in the concrete thickness itself, have a destructive effect. At the same time, not only cold air, but also ultraviolet light has a detrimental effect.

It is also worth paying attention to the width of the cracks, since in some cases such defects are not critical.

Acceptable crack sizes

In the construction industry, there is such a definition as the permissible crack opening width, which is determined according to DBN V.2.6-98: 2009 based on the operating conditions:

• The crack size should not exceed 0.5 mm if the concrete surface is not exposed to weather conditions. That is, it is not affected by moisture, low temperatures and ultraviolet light.
• The permissible crack opening width cannot be more than 0.4 mm, provided that the structure is exposed to weather conditions.
• The crack width should not exceed 0.3 mm if the concrete base is in an aggressive environment.
• It is not recommended to allow the formation of gaps of more than 0.2 mm when it comes to reinforced structures characterized by a reduced resistance to corrosion.

Horizontal cracks with a small opening, which often appear in reinforced concrete columns, are also considered harmless.

However, it is important to take into account that there are certain operating conditions under which cracking is not allowed at all:

• when it comes to reinforced concrete structures that constantly interact with liquids and gases (that is, they must be impervious and sealed);
• when using structures that are subject to more stringent requirements for their durability.

Having determined the type of defect and the need to fix it, it is much easier to choose than to repair holes in a wall or any other concrete surface.

Cement mortars

These compositions are very popular due to their low cost and the ability to repair minor shrinkage cracks in concrete.

Crack sealing

Before proceeding with the repair, it is necessary to check the crack itself for chips around it. If there are any, then in the near future they may turn into holes, so it is imperative to eliminate all flaking pieces of concrete. After that it is necessary:

• Perform jointing. To do this, using a chisel and a hammer, you need to walk along the entire length of the crack so that its depth is at least 5 mm. If necessary, you can use a spatula to create a depression.

• remove dust with a vacuum cleaner and rinse the formed cavity with water.
• Remove excess water and cover the crack with cement mortar (3 parts of sand to 1 part of cement with the addition of PVA). In this case, you need to ensure that the composition covers the entire space of the groove.
• Moisten the poured cement with water.

Sealing the hole

If a hole has formed in the concrete surface, in which the reinforcement is visible, then the defect can be repaired as follows:

• Clean the hole in the concrete and treat its surface with an anti-corrosion compound.
• Place pieces of steel wire with a diameter of about 4 mm in the recess.
• After that, the recess is covered with a primer, evenly applying it to the entire surface. In this case, the thickness of the mixture layer should be about 3 mm.
• Without waiting for the mixture to dry, fill the cavity with a cementitious compound to seal the cracks in the concrete and make sure it fills the entire cavity. If the hole is too deep, then the cement is poured in several stages. In this case, each subsequent layer must be moistened with water from a spray.
• Level the surface with a rail (metal or wood) moving the tool from right to left.

• After the mixture has hardened, the excess cement composition must be removed with a spatula and the surface must be plastered. If the crack was too deep, then leveling is carried out with a grinder.

Healthy! The cement composition must be poured with a margin so that it is slightly above the floor surface. In the process of hardening, the mixture will shrink.

After 24 hours, the concrete floor can be painted or any finishing material can be laid on it.

However, it should be borne in mind that such filling of cracks in concrete will not give a sealing effect and is not suitable for surfaces that have increased requirements for waterproofing. In addition, the cement composition can be considered as a temporary solution to problems. Sooner or later, defects will appear again. If you want to "overhaul" the holes and avoid their appearance in the future, then in this case you can seal the defects with resins, specialized repair compounds based on them, or sealant.

Long-term sealing of defects

When deciding how to repair cracks in concrete for a long time, you should pay attention to this method of processing defects. Resin and resin-based embedding mixtures are suitable for the restoration of screeds, blind areas and various concreted areas or horizontal surfaces.

Repairing cracks in concrete using such compounds has a number of advantages. First of all, it is the cheapness of the mixtures, as well as their quick drying. On the other hand, the resin allows the seams to be held securely in place and to keep them from enlarging later.

So, to eliminate defects, you will need to prepare:

• angle grinder and diamond-coated discs;
• vacuum cleaner;
• spatulas and trough for diluting the composition;
• primer for concrete;
• Epoxy (base A and hardener B);
• Fine-grained sifted sand.

Before sealing the crack, you need to clean it of dust and dirt. After that, we carry out the embedding in the following sequence:

• We make the jointing of the crack. In this case, the width of the resulting recess must be at least 5 mm.
• With the help of a grinding machine, we cut transverse seams in concrete with a pitch of 400 mm (the length of the grooves is about 100-150 mm).
• We remove the loose concrete layer and dust the surface with a vacuum cleaner.
• We treat the surface of the defect with a primer, and fix the transverse grooves with repair brackets.
• We prepare a solution from resin (base), hardener and sand according to the instructions on the package with the composition.
• We close up the defect with the resulting mixture and quickly level the surface, since the setting time of the resin is only 10 minutes.

The best epoxies

If we talk about the best materials for repairing cracks in concrete walls and other surfaces, then the most effective today are:

• Epoxy resin of domestic production ED-16 and ED-20 costing about 2,000 per 3 kg. The hardener will have to be bought separately (it costs about 300-500 rubles).
• Epoxy 520 resin from the Czech manufacturer Spolchemie costing 3,500 rubles per 5 kg.
• The German composition UZIN KR 416, which will cost 2,700 rubles for 0.75 kg.

Also, formulations from the Italian manufacturer Sika are very popular.

However, it should be borne in mind that this method of correcting defects is not suitable for treating holes that form in concrete foundations experiencing strong pressure from water. In this case, it is worth using a sealant.

Use of sealants and self-expanding tapes

It should be said right away that this method of sealing defects is very expensive, therefore it is most often used when repairing concrete bowls of country pools. However, despite its high cost, the use of sealant and self-expanding cords has its own advantages:

• the ability to handle any type of defect;
• complete tightness;
• the ability to carry out installation work in cold weather.

To work, in addition to the standard set of tools, you will need:

• assembly gun;
• self-expanding tape or cord;
• chisel and brushes;
• concrete sealant.

However, before covering up the flaw, it is necessary to measure the dimensions of the slots and purchase the required type of sealant and tapes, depending on this. For example, if the hole is 60 mm deep, an 18 x 23 mm cord will work.

The next step is necessary:

• Expand cracks and remove dust.
• Install the cord into the groove.
• Fill the rest of the space with sealant.
• Smooth out the composition that has come out with a spatula.

After completing the work, you do not have to guess how to putty the surface or caulk it. It is enough just to apply the composition and smooth it out.

If we talk about the best compositions of this type, then the most popular are:

• Domestic ELASTOSIL PU 20 worth 280 rubles for 600 ml.
• Composition from the French manufacturer Rubberflex, which today is sold at a price of 300 rubles for 310 ml.
• Russian-made PLUG tape costing about 260 rubles per running meter.

Injecting

Also, when deciding how to seal holes in a concrete wall in the most effective way, especially if not only a crack has appeared, but water also flows through it, you should pay attention to this method.

The injection technology involves the introduction of a special composition (polyurethane or epoxy resin, microcement or waterproofing mixture) into the concrete using special injection pumps that create strong pressure.

To perform such a restoration of defects, it is necessary:

• Make staggered holes on both sides of the gap.
• Install packers in them (special tubes through which the solution is fed, resemble a dowel) at an angle.

• Pour in the solution.
• Pull out the tubes and coat the surface with the building compound.

So, we looked at how to independently repair a hole in a concrete wall, but what if we are talking about aerated concrete?

Features of sealing cracks in aerated concrete

Cracks in aerated concrete are formed as often as in conventional cement-sand monoliths. To seal them, work is performed in the following sequence:

• A layer of collapsed building material is removed from the wall or any other aerated concrete surface and dust and dirt are removed.
• The gap is primed. For this, it is recommended to use a 50% aqueous dispersion of PVA and water (ratio 1: 3).
• Cracks are filled in depending on their dimensions. If the damage is single and its width does not exceed 0.4 mm, then the gap is expanded to 10 mm and any building compound is poured into it (you can use cement or special glue for aerated concrete). If the width of the defect is up to 10 mm, then it is better to use a porous adhesive for sealing and widen the gap to 20 mm. In the event of a defect with a width of up to 20 mm, it is recommended to apply an adhesive or cement composition, having previously added coarse-graded crushed stone from aerated concrete to it.

After completing the work, it is necessary to close the treated surface with a sheet of plywood (secure with self-tapping screws) for 3-5 hours.

Holes or crevices may appear in any walls over time. The appearance of such defects is considered commonplace. Very often they can appear during the installation and repair of heating systems, air conditioners, as a result of rearranging furniture and much more. When preparing surfaces for further finishing, you have to beat off old and unnecessary plaster, so fragments are possible that need to be restored. In addition, cracks appear on any concrete during operation sooner or later.

You can come up with many ways to disguise damaged areas: cover with a picture, wallpaper, and much more. But this will not solve the problem itself - the hole will remain. In order to close up defects in the wall, the help of masters is not required, everyone can do all this independently.

Reasons for the formation of cracks in the wall

The appearance of cracks can not only spoil the appearance of the room, but also become a serious problem for the functioning of the entire building. One of the most common causes of defects is uneven shrinkage of a structure. This often happens when the load on the walls is not properly distributed or the soil is compacted of poor quality during the construction phase. If the structure is strongly beveled, then the cracks should be repaired only after the causes of such shrinkage have been eliminated and its base has been strengthened. With strong displacements, there is a threat of collapse of walls and ceilings.

The cause of cracks can be climatic conditions: sudden temperature changes, exposure to sunlight or wind. Joints between internal and external walls on the uppermost floors of a building and staircases are especially at risk.

Elimination of cracks is carried out by introducing a cement mortar inside the open cavity.

Concrete undergoes drying over time, so various defects may appear on it. They can occur both on the facades of the building and inside. Through holes appear most often in reinforced concrete structures.

Damage restoration methods

There are several ways to repair damage to the wall. The method and scale of the repair depends entirely on the size of the defect. If the holes remain after removing unnecessary nails or screws, then it will be enough to apply a putty or other cement-containing material.

For deep and large cracks, more serious measures are needed. Such holes often occur after replacing heating systems or electrical wires and sockets. Usually, cement or plaster of paris has to be used to repair serious defects.

The specifics of the work on the restoration of concrete walls depends on the scale of the problem, but the set of tools will be needed almost the same for all cases. To clean surfaces, you need to stock up on a dry brush or a household vacuum cleaner. When filling cracks with polyurethane foam, it is necessary to prepare a knife to cut off excess material.

In order to seal the hole with putty or cement mortar, you will need narrow and wide spatulas. They are convenient to cover up problem areas. In case of large damage, as well as to give strength, a reinforcing tape is required. It is covered with a cement compound and becomes a full-fledged component of the wall, which will protect it from repeated destruction.

Do not forget about the final stage of wall restoration. To grout the surface, prepare a fine-grained sandpaper.

Before covering up the hole, it is necessary to widen it with a long screwdriver in order for the repair mixture to penetrate as deeply as possible. After that, it should be cleaned of cement dust. This can be done with a vacuum cleaner or any dry brush.

Preparation

The entire surface is thoroughly wetted with water using a spray bottle or foam sponge. Do not neglect this work to prepare the hole. Moistening will not allow the putty mixture to quickly give water to the concrete wall.

Next, you should put a layer of gauze cloth and glue it to a damp surface. After a few minutes, it is necessary to start filling the defective area. The solution is applied and rubbed thoroughly into the hole.

After the mixture has dried, everything is cleaned with sandpaper, which has a fine-grained surface. The final stage of filling the holes is painting the place to be repaired or wallpapering it.

Repair of serious damage

The initial stage of this work is generally similar to the preparatory stage of filling small holes. Previously, the entire damaged surface of the wall is cleaned of stones, dust, sand and moistened with water. Instead of water, the surface is often treated with a sealant. The hole is then filled with bricks or stones, which are mixed with cement mortar. This design will save bonding material and strengthen the repair site.

Work with concrete mix

The concrete mixture is prepared in the following proportions: for 1 part of cement, three parts of fine sand are added. Instead, a special repair mixture or plaster is often used.

This material can be bought at any hardware store. It is a dry cement powder that should be diluted with water and set to work. Strong and dense in structure, the composition allows high-quality repair of large chips in a concrete wall. You should wait until it grasps with the concrete.

After the restoration material hardens and dries to eliminate defects, the entire surface is putty, then rubbed with a spatula. The voids should be carefully covered and leveled. It is necessary to leave everything until it dries completely. This usually takes up to 12 hours.

After that, surface treatment of the walls is carried out. First, the places to be restored are carefully sanded with sandpaper, then the facing work is carried out: pasting or painting of the treated places.

Sealing deep cracks in the wall

Very often, in the process of formation and shrinkage of the house, the seams between the panels can disperse or deep cracks appear. The restoration of these damages will not cause serious problems.

The easiest way is to seal them with polyurethane foam. It is supplied in aerosol cans, which makes it easy and quick to repair such defects. Foam perfectly fills empty spaces and penetrates deeply into the most difficult to reach crevices. The material adheres perfectly to various surfaces, expands and hardens in a matter of minutes when interacting with air. When using polyurethane foam, a good result is guaranteed in removing deep holes and cracks.

Preparatory activities

Before starting the restoration, it is imperative to prepare the surface from which further work will be carried out. The gap is cleared of debris, concrete fragments, dust and dirt. Then everything is wetted with water.

Before applying the polyurethane foam, the can is shaken thoroughly for about a minute so that its contents become homogeneous. During operation, the container should be placed vertically in an upside-down position. This is necessary because of the gas inside, it is lighter than foam, therefore it displaces its cylinder.

It is recommended to fill the cracks from the bottom up. If the damage is too deep and severe, the polyurethane foam should be applied in layers, each of which is laid after the previous one has completely dried. This method allows you to properly seal the open cavity and dry the material.

After filling the crack, do not touch the wet polyurethane foam with your hands. Any touch can affect its structure and slow down the hardening process. You should be patient and wait for the material to dry completely.

The final step will be to remove excess polyurethane foam using an ordinary knife. Then the surface should be sealed with a putty. Alignment is done with sandpaper.

Don't worry about remaining holes or cracks in the wall. Any defect, no matter how large it may be, is simple and easy to repair with your own hands without outside help.

The most important prerequisite for a high-quality restoration is strict adherence to all recommendations.

There are two main types of plaster: exterior plaster and interior wall plaster. Usually, both are applied with a layer of 15 mm thick. For finishing the outer walls, plaster is used on a cement mortar, and the inner walls are often finished with a softer lime mortar. On a rough and hygroscopic base, plaster is applied, as a rule, in one layer. However, in order for this finish to be more durable, sometimes it is necessary to apply it in two or even three layers.

Special skill is required to work with spray applied plaster. In this case, the solution (for external walls it is prepared in the following ratio: 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand; for internal walls: 1 part of lime, 4 parts of sand), with a sharp movement of the hand, throw it on the wall so that it lies firmly on it " pancake ". If the throw is weak, the mortar will fall on the wall in a lump, which will quickly slide off it.

The plaster thrown on the wall is smoothed with a wooden float, working with it in the lateral directions from bottom to top. Possible defects (indentations) are eliminated with a bricklayer's trowel: the solution is rubbed into the plastered surface with a triangular trowel.

When decorating walls of a large area, so-called "beacons" are attached to them at a distance of about 1.5 m from each other (the easiest way is to use even wooden planks). The work associated with the installation of plaster beacons is perhaps the most important. After all, it is their front edges that will determine the position of the surface of the applied plaster, since the tool smoothing the plaster will move along these edges.

In this case, the wall is plastered with sections between the lighthouses, and after removing the lighthouses, these sections are sealed and aligned at the joints.

After eliminating irregularities, the plastered wall is treated with a grater, making spiral movements with it. The applied plaster is given exposure for about half an hour and only then they begin to grout it - it will be easier this way.

This base layer of plaster can then be applied to a wide variety of plaster types. In particular, spray plaster with a brush or a special plastering machine. To get a smooth plastered wall, the layer of finishing plaster is smoothed with a steel trowel or trowel. In addition, gypsum plaster is sometimes applied to the plaster after smoothing as a cover. Alternatively, you can give the wall a rough, rustic look by treating the plaster layer with a bricklayer's trowel.

There are many ways to plaster masonry. But all these jobs require patience and skill. Before proceeding with any of them, you should first practice at least a little on some area of ​​the wall to be finished.

How to learn to plaster - plaster the simplest wall ourselves - instructions

1. A beginner plasterer will need the following tools and aids: mortar preparation tank, large and small wooden floats, steel trowel, triangular trowel, plaster brush, water bucket, brush, small trowels for grouting shallow depressions. You can prepare the plaster mixture yourself. However, ready-made plaster mixes are also on sale for both indoor and outdoor work, which are sufficient to dilute with water.
2. Spray plaster is applied with a trowel, throwing it onto the wall with a sharp movement of the brush. In order for the plaster to firmly adhere to the wall, it must be of the appropriate consistency.
3. The plaster applied to the wall is leveled with a large wooden trowel, slightly leaning on it.
4. Depressions and cracks are sealed with plaster mortar, smoothing it with a triangular trowel. When finishing a section of a wall near the outer corner, a board is attached to the adjacent wall as a stop-stop for plaster.
5. The plaster applied to the wall is treated with a wooden float, making movements in a spiral and pressing the entire surface against the plaster. It will be easier and easier to work if the plaster is allowed to dry a little.
6. On slightly dried plaster with a steel trowel, apply and smooth the finishing layer of plaster mortar. And here the tool works from the bottom up.
7. With a brush constantly dipped in water, the plaster that has just been applied to the wall can be treated with a "rustic" look. At the same time, the brush is not driven over the plaster, but only patted on its surface, which gradually takes on the appearance of a spray applied plaster.
8. The plastering machine is filled with a liquid solution. When the brush rotates, the solution is sprayed onto the surface to be plastered.
9. On top of the plaster on the walls inside the premises, gypsum plaster is additionally applied as a cover. The latter is applied in a thin layer using a steel float. The walls prepared in this way can be painted "or pasted over with wallpaper. However, the cover is allowed to dry thoroughly beforehand.

FILLING AND REPAIRING CRACKS IN THE WALLS WITH YOUR OWN HANDS

Cracks not only spoil the appearance of plastered walls. If the cracked plaster is not repaired in a timely manner, it can cause more serious damage to both the plaster layer and the brickwork. First of all, this applies to external walls, which are more exposed to moisture and low temperatures. Through existing cracks in the plaster, moisture can penetrate into the masonry and freeze there. In this case, the plaster will begin to fall off, and the masonry will collapse. Timely filling of cracks will not only put the wall in order, but also prevent its further destruction.

Before proceeding with the renovation of the plastered wall, it is necessary to seal up all the cracks and chips on it, since neither paint nor wallpaper will completely cover them.

The easiest way is to repair plaster with strip and shrinkage microcracks. In this case, it is enough to simply treat the damaged areas with a pound of deep impregnation, which, penetrating into the plaster, strengthens it. Old wallpaper and paint, of course, must be removed before this. After allowing the pound to dry, the cracks are painted over with a thick dispersion paint.

Cracks resulting from internal stresses, or larger cracks formed during shrinkage of the structure, are repaired. When renovating exterior walls, use only weather-resistant materials.

When repairing concrete walls finished with cement-based plaster, special emulsions (for example, PCI emulsion) have proven themselves well, to which you just need to add cement and mix. The resulting mixture is applied with a brush to the cracked plaster.

The most difficult thing is to restore the plaster layer, cracked as a result of uneven settlement of the building, which can occur for various reasons.

Cracks resulting from the settlement of the building are repaired. However, these cracks can appear over and over again until the process of settlement of the building stops.

How to repair cracks on the walls yourself - instructions for beginners

1. Plaster, cracked due to static stresses and wall shrinkage, is repaired as follows. First, the crack is widened.
2. Then the surfaces of the enlarged crack are abundantly moistened with a brush or sponge. After that, rub the repair compound into the crack with a trowel or spatula.
3. Until the repair compound has seized, a gauze strip or a special serpentine tape is applied over it and firmly pressed so that its edges extend beyond the edges of the crack.
4. Seams between structural elements (especially if they are built of different materials) are unlikely to be reliably repaired with plaster. This requires a sealant that remains elastic. But in any case, the seam must first be cleaned of mortar residues.
5. The construction joint is filled with a special silicone sealant, squeezing it out of the plastic cartridge with a pistol so that the sealant penetrates the joint as deeply as possible.
6. Immediately after filling the joint, the surface of the sealant is smoothed with a thumb, periodically wetting the finger in an aqueous solution of detergent.
7. Cracks caused by building settlement usually extend through the entire thickness of the wall. To accurately determine the nature of the damage, the plaster in the crack zone is knocked down with a hammer.
8. Wobbly masonry bricks are strengthened by filling the masonry joints with cement mortar. Of course, you must first remove the old mortar from the cracked joints. A reinforcing wire mesh is applied and nailed to the cleared section of the wall.
9. First, the plaster is applied to the fixed mesh for rough leveling, and then the finishing one.
10. The applied plaster is smoothed with a trowel moistened in water, making circular movements with it.
11. After allowing the new plaster to dry, the repaired section of the wall is primed or a suitable protective compound is applied. Such a base is suitable for wall painting or wallpapering. In any case, the patched crack will not be evident.

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How and how to fix a crack in the wall correctly.

Cracks in the walls are one of the most important problems in apartment buildings and private houses. Because of such cracks, paint very often begins to crack and crumble, wallpaper peels off, and other troubles occur that I would like to get rid of. But cracks occur not only because of the builders - it can also happen because of many natural phenomena, such as earthquakes, earth settling and others. You just need to understand that nothing is eternal, and the problem should be solved as it comes. But cracks can be very different - be it the initial stage or rather serious damage. But one conclusion should be made - it is necessary to close the crack in the wall as early as possible, so that later you do not have to invest more effort and money to eliminate this problem. Better to cover up and close up "in the first couple" than to do it later.

How and how to fix a crack in the wall

You may encounter completely different cracks in size and origin. Perhaps your plaster or putty just cracked, but if the cracks were caused by the brickwork itself, then this is already a more serious problem. But still, you can cope with the first and second options, you just need to know how to do everything correctly, that's all. Let's try to learn some methods that will help you get rid of cracks that have already appeared in the wall or.

If there are small cracks on your wall that look like a cobweb, then in order to cover it, you may need a primer (see) and putty mesh. But remember, this option can only work if the cracks do not diverge and the wall has only minor damage. So, let's get down to business. First of all, it is necessary to clean off all old building materials and all kinds of debris that is on the surface from the wall. It is important that the wall is perfectly clean. Now that you have done this work, you need to prime the wall with deep penetration soil. After that, glue the reinforced filler mesh over the entire wall area. Remember that the entire area of ​​the cracked wall should be covered with mesh. After you have applied the mesh, you need to coat the surface with a small layer of putty on top. After complete drying, you need to sand the wall, after which you can start painting or wallpapering. Thus, it is easy and quick to repair a crack in the wall.

If you encounter such a problem when small cracks have gone from the outside of the wall, then you should do the same work as in the previous version of getting rid of cracks, but here there is still one caveat - choose Ceresit CT29 for the putty. Such a putty is designed specifically for outdoor use and does not need sanding, since it is reinforced by itself. Moreover, such a putty is very resistant to weathering, as it contains special adhesive additives.

If significant cracks have gone on your wall, not only on the plaster, but also on the brickwork, then here it is worth resorting to another option of how to repair a crack in the wall, since this problem is already more serious than in the previous options. First of all, you need to completely remove all old plaster from the wall. After you have cleaned the wall, you need to fasten a special metal mesh for plastering to it, and after that apply a new layer of cement-sand plaster. But it is very important to remember that the mesh must be screwed over the entire surface area, thereby it will not allow new plaster to blur, after which it will be possible to putty, paint, and so on.

But it is worth starting to take drastic measures in the event that the crack in the wall has already begun to diverge a little.... In this case, you will have to pull the wall together so that it does not diverge further. It is necessary to tighten the crack with special metal plates. But before that, knock all the old plaster off the wall. It is not possible to knock down the plaster from the entire surface area, but only half a meter on either side of the crack, since the metal plate is usually attached one meter. After you knocked down the plaster, you need to clean the crack from solutions and other debris, then fill it with polyurethane foam. Now you can attach the plate. But there is an important point - when choosing a plate, you should definitely pay attention to the fact that it cannot bend easily, especially since it should not bend by hand - this is important. It is worth choosing a plate that is made of thick and high-quality metal.

The crack in the wall should be pulled together in three places, and this is only a minimum. If possible, then you can make four or five ties. But if you chose the first option, then the mandatory places of the screed are:

1. Above, while stepping back a little space from the ceiling.
2. Bottom, slightly stepping back from the floor.
3. In the middle.

You can screw the plates onto the most common self-tapping screws, after driving in the dowels, or you can push them onto bolts with a nut, punching through the plate. After you have made the screed, you can wind a special metal mesh and see how it is done correctly with the video example, and if you are familiar with this, then you get down to business accordingly, because now you will not say that you do not know how to repair a crack in the wall. Good luck!