How to repair and paint a wooden window. Restoration of wooden windows step by step Repair of a wooden frame on a balcony rotted corner

For some time now, products made from natural materials have been actively gaining leadership positions from their synthetic substitutes. This also applies to windows: if quite recently the installation of plastic double-glazed windows in window openings was considered the top of chic, now many are beginning to doubt the advisability of such a solution. Plastic, no matter how wonderful it is, is a product of chemical production, which means, in one way or another, it can be unsafe for human health. Wooden windows are a completely different matter. These are environmentally friendly, beautiful and durable structures, which, unlike their plastic counterparts, are easy to restore. Renovation of old wooden windows allows you to breathe new life into them: restore their original appearance and restore functionality.

If you decide to repair wooden windows yourself, the first step is to inspect them for defects. Each identified deficiency in the process of work will need to be eliminated.

Defect 1. The gap between the frame and the window frame

Very often the problem of wooden windows is insufficient tightness, as a result of which drafts begin to walk around the apartment. When examining the window between the frame and the frame, a gap is usually found, which is formed when the sash is not properly sealed in the half-tenons.

This drawback is easily eliminated by placing a sealant - rubber, PVC or foam rubber in the half-tenon of the window sash. Thus, they cope with two important tasks: they simultaneously repair and insulate wooden windows.

Sometimes such a defect can be corrected without the help of seals. To do this, the hinges are bent in the opposite direction from the half-tenon of the sash. If a gap has formed along the entire length of the sash, then all the loops need to be bent. If the deficiency manifests itself only in one area, then it will be enough to bend the loop only at the place where the gap appears.

Defect 2. Sashes of the window frame close tightly

Another common defect of wooden frames is their distortion, after which the sashes begin to close with difficulty or not close at all. If you are faced with such a defect, then first of all inspect the hinges - they tend to "settle". In this case, there are several solutions. You can put the hinges in new places on the frame, or you can wind a wire around the hinge rods to adjust the height of the sashes.

Sometimes skewing is caused by deformation of the frame, due to the swelling of the wood. In this case, it will be enough to cut off the excess with a plane and fit the frame to the box. If it was not possible to visually detect the pinch point, then do the following: when closing and opening the window, stretch a strip of copy paper between the frame and the box. Those parts of the frame, on which the marks remain, will need to be cut off. In some cases, the frame stops closing due to an overly thick layer of paint that needs to be cleaned off. This is done using coarse sandpaper.

Defect 3. Skewed window sashes

Window sashes can be skewed when loosening frame corner joints. There are several ways to eliminate this defect, but the simplest and most reliable is to use metal corners, which are installed at the corners of the binding. In order to fix the corners, the landing nests are cut out on the frame with a chisel. The corners are laid there so that they are just below the surface of the frame, and they are screwed in with screws. Then the place of the installed corner is putty and cleaned with sandpaper.

Defect 4: Rotting part of the binding or frame

Sometimes you can find whole fragments of decayed wood on old wooden windows. In this case, there is nothing left to do but replace them with new ones. For this, the damaged part is cut out with a chisel, and they try to capture some healthy tissue in order to prevent the spread of decay. Then the resulting recess is coated with epoxy resin or wood glue and a new piece of wood cut out in advance is fixed there. After the glue has hardened, this area is sanded with a sander or sanding paper.

Defect 5. Peeling or cracked paint

Any repair and restoration of wooden windows, as a rule, is not complete without renewing the old paintwork. Applying another coat to the peeling paint is a bad idea and will only prevent wood from rotting and will not improve the appearance of the window. Therefore, we recommend that you completely get rid of the old paint, and only then apply a new one.

For the convenience of work, you must first remove the windows from the hinges, remove the glass and remove all metal parts. Otherwise, the complexity of the repair will increase, and the quality may suffer.

Old paintwork can be removed by heating it with a blow dryer or blowtorch. Under the influence of high temperatures, the paint layer will begin to bubble and move away from the wood, after which it can be easily removed with a spatula or scraping. The same flaking effect can be obtained by treating a painted window with a special paint stripper. These two options are similar in their action and allow you to quickly, with minimal effort, remove the old coating from the windows.

Their only drawback is the mandatory conduct of these activities in the open air, since in the process of removing the paint, harmful gases are released. If this does not suit you, then you can consider another option - removing paint mechanically using spatulas, scrapers, metal brushes. Such mechanical repair of wooden windows is very difficult and is more suitable for those cases when the paint is so old that it falls off by itself.

All irregularities and cracks on the surface of the wood are putty and cleaned with sanding paper or a sander. The primer is applied in 2 layers, after which they start painting. For an effective result, paint and varnish is applied to the tree in 2-3 layers. As a rule, the first coat is applied with paint diluted with solvent. The resulting thin composition impregnates the wood and allows, in combination with subsequent layers, to obtain a uniform dense coating. The most effective staining result can be obtained by using a spray gun to apply paint or varnish. Painting with a brush should be done more accurately, since in this case there is a greater likelihood of sagging, irregularities in the application.

Below is a video showing how to restore an old wooden window.

Do-it-yourself repair of wooden windows is not difficult, but it allows you to save a sufficient amount of money, extend the life of familiar wooden windows and, if possible, delay the need to install new double-glazed windows.

Today in many apartments you can still find wooden windows with old glass, installed many years ago by builders. Despite the fact that a lot of time has passed, such structures are particularly durable, and they periodically require cosmetic repairs, namely painting, pasting with paper, etc. In addition, more serious repairs may be required. If you do not want to change windows, check out the question of how to update old wooden windows with your own hands using inexpensive materials.

If old windows have loose putty instead of glazing beads, and the surface is covered with a swollen or half-blown paintwork, you can put a little effort and renew the old but sturdy frame. It is also worth mentioning the significant savings. Doing it yourself, repairing and restoring windows will be much cheaper.

Repair of wooden windows

For the manufacture of wooden windows, an environmentally friendly material is used. In addition, it becomes possible to make a beautiful and durable structure that can be easily repaired and restored.

By doing the repair of old wooden windows and doors with your own hands, you can return them to functionality and original attractiveness.

If a decision is made to repair the windows with your own hands, then first you need to inspect them for the presence of defects. Any flaw can be eliminated by performing simple manipulations.

How to eliminate gaps between the window frame and the frame?

Often the problem with wooden windows is the lack of tightness, which causes drafts. If you take a good look at the window, you can find a gap between the frame and the box, formed as a result of poor sealing of the shutters in the half-tenons.

You can get rid of such a defect without any problems by placing a good seal in the half-tenon of the window sash. Such a product can be rubber, foam or made of PVC. As a result, it becomes possible to cope with several tasks at once, namely to make repairs and insulate wooden windows.

In some cases, it is possible to correct such a defect without using a seal. It is necessary to bend the hinges in the opposite direction from the sash hem. In situations where a gap is formed along the entire length of the door, all the hinges have to be bent. If the defect is visible only in one place, then you need to bend the loop where there is a gap.

What to do if the sash closes tightly?

A common and common problem with wooden windows is their distortion. For this reason, the flaps either close with difficulty or do not close at all. If there is a suspicion of this defect, then the first thing to do is to inspect the loops, as a rule, they tend to settle. There are several solutions to this problem. So, you can install the hinges in new places on the frame or wind a wire on the rods of these hinges to adjust the height of the flaps.

In some cases, skewing appears as a result of deformation of the frame, which occurred due to the swelling of the tree. Then you can cut everything off with a plane, adjusting the frame to the box. If it was not possible to immediately determine the place of pinching, then the following manipulations are done: when closing and opening the window, you need to stretch a strip of copy paper between the frame and the box. In accordance with the marks, you need to cut off the excess areas on the frame. Often old frames do not close due to the application of a large layer of paint, so you have to clean it off. This can be done using coarse sandpaper.

What to do if the window sashes are skewed?

As a rule, window sashes can be skewed due to loosening of the corner frame joints. There are several methods for eliminating such a defect, while the easiest and most reliable is the use of metal corners installed at the corners of the binding.

To fix the corners, it is tedious to cut out the seat nests on the frame with a chisel. The corners are laid in these places and screwed in, so they will appear slightly below the surface of the frame. The place where the corner is installed is carefully putty and cleaned using sandpaper.

If part of the binding or frame rots

Old decaying fragments may appear on old wooden structures. In such situations, the damaged parts are cut out with a chisel, while it is advisable to grab some healthy material to prevent the spread of decay. The resulting indentation must be smeared using epoxy resin or wood glue. A previously prepared new piece of wood must be placed in this place and secured. When the glue has completely hardened, you need to sand the area with a sander or paper.

If paint peels or cracks

In the process of any repair or restoration of windows, an update of the paintwork may be required. It is not recommended to apply another coat on peeling paint. Of course, this can prevent the process of wood decay, but the appearance will not improve at all. Ideally, it is best to get rid of the old paint coat and then apply a new coat.

What materials do you need to get for window restoration?

• You need to buy a coarse wood putty to close up significant defects and large gaps. In this case, this applies to wooden windows, doors and other joinery.
• You need a fine-grained putty for wood, in other words, a mixture for finishing. Better to buy a white putty. Beige is also suitable, but if you plan to varnish the window frame. In the event that the window frame looks very bad, you need to choose a putty and white paint, so you can hide visual defects.
• You will need a deep penetration primer, which is very often used for decorating an apartment and for other repair work. Using this mixture, you can achieve better adhesion of wood and putty, as well as putty and paint.
• You cannot do without paint for wood, only it is best to give preference to glossy materials that are easy to clean.
• If you plan to re-glaze the window frame, you need to buy wooden glazing beads, as well as nails for them, the length of which should be about 2 cm.
• It would not hurt to buy some masking tape.

What preparatory work needs to be done?

Before you do the repair of wooden windows with your own hands, you must first check for noticeable damage and defects. Sometimes, in addition to applying a layer of new paint, glass replacement or frame repair may be required. Note that in places where paint has peeled off, wood can rot.

After determining the degree of damage to the window frame, it will immediately be seen whether the damaged areas can be repaired or whether it is easier to replace them altogether. As a rule, the older the windows are, the more defects there are on their surfaces.

In addition, it is important to pay attention to how the box adheres to the window frame. A very common cause of pinching is a deformation of the frame or a very thick layer of obsolete paint that must be removed. In the case of deformation, you will need to work a little with a plane, so you can tightly fit it to the window frame.

What's the best way to remove old paint?

In order for the restoration and repair work to be carried out as efficiently as possible, it is necessary to remove the old peeling paint from the surface of the wooden frame.
First, the old window must be removed from its hinges, glass and all metal parts must be removed. Of course, this may not be done, but in this case, the duration of the work is significantly increased.

You can remove old paint from a wooden surface using several methods, including heat or chemical treatment.

Very often, equipment such as a construction hairdryer is used. With the help of such a tool, the dismantling of old paint is carried out as quickly and efficiently as possible. If there is no construction hair dryer at hand, then the work can be done with the help of abrasive materials, spatulas and scrapers.

When the old peeling paint has been removed from the wooden frame, it is imperative to wipe the structure, removing dust and other dirt from it. After that, the surface must be treated with an alkaline solution, which can be bought at any hardware store. It is also recommended to visit the carpentry department, which sells everything that may be required to repair windows with your own hands.

Wait about 15 minutes for the paint to peel off the wooden frame. After this time, you can easily remove the old coating with a scraper.
Of course, to facilitate the work, it is better to use a construction hairdryer. Its principle of operation is to supply a hot jet of air that acts on the paint. As a result, it quickly softens and is easily removed.

If it is planned to perform work with a hair dryer, you need to hold it in one hand, and the spatula in the other. Direct the hot air stream to a small area of ​​the surface. As soon as the paint starts to swell, you need to immediately remove it with a spatula.

Such an electric tool must periodically cool down, as there is a risk of burning it. It is recommended to work in this mode: operate for 5 minutes, turn off for 10 minutes.

How to replace glass in old windows?

If there are broken glasses or cracks in them, you need to replace the frame before painting, which must be cleaned of a layer of old paint. The glass is easier to remove if you remove the glazing beads or remove the putty. After that, you need to measure the dimensions of the required glass and order it from the master.

If you have sufficient skills and knowledge in the field of glass cutting, you can do such work yourself.

It is not difficult to insert the cut glass into the frame. To do this, you need to apply a fresh layer of putty to the folds. As a result, reliable protection of the window from moisture penetration will be provided. It should also be noted that this putty fits snugly enough to the window frame.

Having installed the cut glass on the folds, you need to cover up all the gaps with the same putty. After one month, it is required to paint the frame with a hardened putty paint. By performing such actions, you can additionally protect the window from moisture ingress.

Window treatment with sanding, filler and primer

This stage of work is carried out in order to prepare the window frame for the application of a new layer of finishing material. Using sandpaper, you need to eliminate the remaining imperfections. In addition, you will need to putty the targets and, if any, irregularities. The applied material must dry for at least 12 hours, and then the process must be repeated again. After the second layer has dried, the final leveling of the surfaces is required.

The primer must also be applied in at least two coats, with each coat drying very well.

Painting windows

The simplest process in restoring old wooden windows is painting them. Having picked up the appropriate shade of paintwork, you need to pour a small part of the composition into a separate container. If there is a need to give the paint the required thickness, you can dilute it with a special solvent.
It should be noted that the first coat of paint is applied to impregnate the wood. Thus, the composition gets into all cracks and pores. Based on this, it is important to say that the paint should not be very thick. In the worst case, the effectiveness of impregnating the frame will be minimal.

The second layer of the composition should be applied only when the first layer is completely dry. As a rule, a few hours are enough for this, but do not forget that the paint can be different. If this feature is not taken into account, then wrinkles and bubbles may appear on the surface of the frame.

It would not hurt to apply a third coat of paint, with which the coating will adhere better. In addition, reliable protection of the material from damage and moisture penetration is provided.

When the window frames are completely dry, they need to be reinserted into the box. When installing the structure, you need to ensure that there are no cracks. If they do form, then you cannot do without the use of a sealant.

What tools and accessories are needed for window restoration?

The list of required tools will depend on the condition of the window frames. Usually, the same list of building tools is required to repair windows and doors. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with this list:

• you can not do without a construction hair dryer, with which you can remove the old layer of paint from a wooden frame;
• spatulas of various sizes are needed, with which old paint will be removed and putty applied;
• for gluing glass, a special gun is required for applying sealant;
• a set of brushes is purchased for painting the frame;
• it is imperative to purchase sandpaper with a suitable grain, with which the wood and putty will be cleaned;
• the list of required tools should also include a hammer, chisel, pliers and pliers;
• in any case, you will need a jigsaw or a handy hacksaw for wood;
• sometimes a small pocket knife can come in handy.

How to remove paint residues?

When repairing old windows, the question often arises of how to quickly and efficiently clean windows at the end of the repair?

You can use a regular solvent to wash off the fresh paint coat. With this solvent, you need to moisten a napkin and wipe off all stains with paint formed on the glass. As a result of such simple actions, the window acquires a beautiful and attractive appearance.

As you can see, the repair and restoration of old wooden windows does not require special knowledge and experience. It is enough to familiarize yourself with the simple instructions, which describe the recommended sequence of work.

Do-it-yourself wooden window repair is a very relevant question. Wooden windows do not recede even in the age of modern plastic ones. Wood is not only a natural prestigious material, it also has real advantages: wooden windows are resistant to external influences, provide excellent sound and heat insulation. And most importantly, the optimal humidity is automatically maintained in a house with wooden windows.

Manufacturers, seeing that the "plastic boom" in the window market is subsiding, are vying with each other to offer windows made of modified wood. Nothing bad can be said about them, except for the price: not that it is not happy - it scares. Meanwhile, the restoration of wooden windows with your own hands is not so difficult, and as a result, the window that was killed by the great-grandfather can be restored to the appearance of a completely new product.

Technology, tools, materials

Independent and professional restoration of old windows is most often based on the so-called Swedish technology. But if you figure it out, then its whole essence boils down to inserting a Euro-strip sealing cord, and fitting and repainting remain in the field of additional services, the price is from 3000 rubles / window. And in principle, the Euro-strip technology is not restoration, but insulation. (About which on the eve of the onset of cold weather).

In the meantime, we will find out what kind of tool and materials will be needed for this - there will be few of them:

Zenzubel (selector)

• A set of chisels of various widths, from 4 to 30 mm.
• A special plane for cutting and cleaning folds, quarters, grooves and sharp edges of perpendicular cuts - zenzubel; in Russian - selector, see the figure on the right.
• A fragment of a wide, 4-6 mm and thin, no more than 0.3 mm hacksaw or jigsaw blade (saw band). If there is a manual jigsaw on the farm, then a solid tape for it.
• A wide boot knife or palette knife is a special knife used by painters to clean paint from a palette.
• Thin-walled core drill for wood 8-10 mm inside; purchased after revision of the sashes.
• Carpenter's square.
• Raceway or bubble level 1 m.

You will also need a plumb line, but you can easily make it yourself from a thread with a nut. From the materials you will need the following:

1. Assembly glue for wood - "liquid nails", about 0.3 kg.
2. Wood putty on sawdust of the desired tone, 0.5 kg, or 0.5 liters of fine sawdust; sold in hardware stores.
3. Natural drying oil, 3 kg for a two-room apartment of average size.
4. Densely grated (dry mixture of pigment with a filler, diluted by hand with a thinner) whitewash, titanium or zinc, 2 kg at the same rate.
5. Flange brushes 40 and 80 mm.
6. Kerosene, 2 liters.
7. Nails, small and 60-80 mm, 0.5 kg each.
8. Skin No. 60 or No. 80, 0.7 m.
9. A dense plastic bag with a depth of 1.7 m and a width of 0.5 m. Wrapping from bedding, etc. is suitable. The holes need to be sealed with tape.
10. A sheet of plywood or a flat board made of boards a little larger than the window frame.
11. Scraps of aviation or water-resistant plywood 1-1.5 mm thick or a block of solid fine-grained wood - oak, beech, walnut, rowan, pear, plum, cherry, acacia.
12. Silicone AQUARIUM glue, 10-20 ml.

Note: water-based polymer putties of deep penetration on wood are not suitable for this case: they significantly increase the thermal conductivity of wooden parts.

Additionally, depending on the design of the window, you may need a stain of the desired tone and acrylic clear varnish. If you can use an industrial hair dryer, you won't need kerosene and a large plastic bag. Stocking up on the above, you can start overhauling old windows.

Working conditions

It is better to take for windows in dry, warm, even hot weather: the permissible air humidity is not more than 65%, and preferably 40%. In case of bad weather, we tighten the window openings for the period of repair with a film on a temporary frame made of waste sawn timber: slabs, waste, old picket fences, etc.

Correct and incorrect seating of the dowel

Disassembly and revision

The most important element of the window construction is the wooden bosses-pins ("chopiki") fastening it at the corners. Sufficient attention will be paid to the description of the methods of working with them, and the repair of the window begins precisely with the inspection and revision of the dowels.

First of all, we remove the sashes, remove the glazing beads or carefully pick out the putty with a chisel and take out the glass. Then we completely remove the fittings (it will still need a new one); We carefully remove the wooden drips (drips) from the outer flaps: they are on the nails, which are probably rusted. We also take out all the other nails, remove the steel squares - for further work, only wood should remain in the frame and sashes.

Next, we put the frame and then the sashes one by one on the shield and level them to squareness, measuring the diagonals: they should be of equal length. We especially carefully measure and level the vents: they are small and the cost of an error is high. 1 mm of divergence of the diagonals along the length gives a gap of 0.6-0.7 mm.

Example: on the sash, we were wrong by 3 mm, and by the same amount in the opposite direction on the frame. You will get a slit about 4 mm wide, clearly visible, and pulling from it will also be noticeable.

We fix the leveled part of the window with nails, carefully driving them into the shield close to the sash, and check the old pins. If everyone is sitting as expected, approximately in the middle of the corner, carefully drill them out with a larger diameter drill, but not more than 0.6 of the width of a rectangular one, excluding the grooves, quarters and bevels of the solid wood (see Fig. Lower part). If there is a “left”, which is not uncommon, see the picture above, we work like this:

• We dig the old one along the contour with 3-4 drops of superglue, this is necessary so that it does not fall out during drilling and the hole does not go away.
• We are waiting for 5-10 minutes for the glue to set firmly in the depth, it flows far away.
• We drill a correctly positioned hole.
• With a saw tape, pushing it into the slots between the mustache of the connection, we saw through the old dowel.

After the fastening holes in all the details of the window are drilled, the frames are disassembled into parts and cleaned of old paint.

Removing paint

There are two ways to remove old paint from windows: thermal and chemical. For cleaning with heat treatment, an industrial hair dryer is used. Do not try to do it for everyday use: it will not give 200-250 degrees. And do not set the temperature on the hair dryer to more than 250 - you will get a low-temperature, without charring, burn the wood, and it will lose its qualities. The same will happen if you heat with a blowtorch or propane torch.

The part to be cleaned is placed on the priest and heated in sections of 25-30 cm. When the paint begins to bubble, clean it off, like plasticine, with a boot knife or palette knife. A spatula with a straight blade, even a sharpened one, either cuts into wood or slips over paint.

Video: thermal paint removal

With "chemistry" paint is removed with a plastic bag and kerosene (solvent or nitro-solvents are not suitable, they will spoil the tree):

• Each piece of wood is wrapped in rags.
• The whole bunch, how much will fit into the neck of the bag, is pushed into it; there should be a margin for tying the bag.
• Water the wrapped pieces of wood with 0.5 liters of kerosene.
• The bag is tied tightly, left for a day or more, until the paint softens.
• Take out the parts one at a time and brush off the paint with the same tool.

Notes:

1. Chemical softening of paint is a smelly and fire hazardous operation. It should be carried out on the balcony or on the street.
2. If you take the entire bundle out of the bag at once, the kerosene will quickly evaporate and the paint will harden again.

In both cases, if the window is supposed to be painted with paint, it is not necessary to pick out small particles of paint in the recesses: it will only be easier to putty and sand. If the window goes under the stain with varnish, then you will have to work hard on them.

Impregnation

The next stage of work is impregnation with linseed oil. The purpose is to prevent the embryos of rot, killed by heat or chemistry, from re-developing, and to restore the structure of old wood as much as possible. Hastily, for several years before the next repair, the details are impregnated with a brush from all sides 3-4 times; subsequent - after complete absorption of the previous one. Before subsequent impregnation, the surface of the part must not be tack-free.

For centuries, they are impregnated in a special device: a piece of steel pipe 100-120 mm welded from one end. It is installed obliquely at about 30 degrees; it is advisable to use a welded trestle from the corner so that the pipe does not roll. The operation is carried out only in the open air, away from residential buildings: in the yard, in the country. It is imperative to have a sackcloth or fiberglass mat on hand: drying oil can flare up. You need to know this in advance, and not be scared, but immediately throw a felt felt over the neck of the pipe. It goes out - you can continue.

Linseed oil is poured into the pipe 3/4 and heated from below with a hairdryer or a stream of hot air from an electric stove. As the drying oil heats up, it will begin to bubble: moisture evaporates from it and air comes out. If the smell of drying oil suddenly increased sharply - move the heater aside, wait a little and continue heating. When the bubbles are gone, you can start the impregnation.

Warning: under no circumstances look directly into the mouth of the pipe and do not bend over it! You need to follow the drying oil sideways.

For impregnation, you need a hook made of steel wire 5-6 mm with a pointed end. The part is placed in a pipe and heated with a hook for 3-5 minutes, then it is hooked with the tip, removed and placed on the table to dry. Do not grab the parts with your hands, even with gloves: hot drying oil with a temperature of over 130 degrees will drain from them.

Parts from the most ordinary pine treated in this way serve in the open air for 150 years or more, and painted with oil paint require repainting no more than once every 15 years.

Restore windows

Dowels and wedges

Before taking on the actual restoration of wooden windows, you need to prepare new pins and wedges for them. The pins are drilled with a core drill from any straight-layered industrial wood. You need to drill CROSS the FIBERS, as shown in the figure. Hastily planed "chopiki" frames will not last long. For each dowel, it is necessary to prepare in advance a wedge with a length of its diameter, a width of 5-7 mm and a thickness of 1-1.5 mm. The best wedges are oak and mountain ash. The diameter of the dowel is 0.5-0.7 mm larger than the diameter of the mounting hole for it.

Outward alignment

The leveled frame is assembled, while not fixing anything, on the slipway; it must be covered with plastic wrap in advance. They are aligned diagonally, as before, and are also fixed with nails driven in from the sides. Drill through the mounting holes again.

Next, the frame is disassembled, the mustache and grooves of the joints are coated with liquid nails, quickly (the glue hardens in a few minutes) is collected in a slipway, just as quickly checked with diagonals and, if required, trimmed. When the glue sets, they start fixing with pins. It is impossible to postpone it for another day: in order for the pins to hold the frame properly, the glue joint during their installation must still be sufficiently plastic.

The pins are lightly greased with liquid nails and hammered into the holes with a mallet. THE NAGEL FIBERS MUST BE LOCATED CROSS THE WOOD FIBERS! This is an indispensable condition for a reliable connection, see fig. Finally, the dowels are fixed with wedges on both sides, driving them ON the FIBERS of the dowel, also see the figure.

The question may arise: what about the counterpart? The fibers of the nail will go along its fibers.

The fact is that after the wedges are driven into the pins, the counter piece will fall on the “waist” of the pin and will not split. And a wedge driven into the dowel even before the glue has completely hardened will give, in addition to the lateral one, some vertical force, so that the entire joint will be compressed and the glue will gain strength under pressure. After 3 days of exposure at +25 degrees, such a frame, dropped at an angle from a height of a meter, remains rectangular.

Fitting the frame and sashes

The rectangularity along the outer edge does not guarantee the straightness of the mounting openings: the tree may dry out unevenly. Therefore, the next stage of work is the alignment of the inner quarters.

First, we adjust the window frame and the vents in the corresponding sash: we put the frame on the priest and check the quarters in turn with a plumb line. If there is at least one exactly perpendicular, we take it as a base. If not, we will have to suffer with the square and the bus until we find the most "left" corner. From it, then from other corners with a pencil along the flight tire, we beat off the lines of the new opening and a zenzub with a chisel, and at the corners with a chisel we select the excess (in the figure - on the left).

Further, in the same way, we check and align the flaps OUTSIDE. Then we lay the sashes next to each other and align them in height and width, as shown in the figure on the right. Quarters under the glass can not be touched: both for the view and for the reliability of the window, their slight distortion is insignificant. But if you get a taste and want to align them too, it won't hurt.

After the described operations, the sashes together will be smaller than the frame landing opening. To fit into the frame (it is into it, otherwise the window will not close later!) We put strips of plywood in quarters on liquid nails. After the glue hardens, we bring it to accuracy with a chisel and a chisel, select the recesses for the fittings. Then we grab them in 15-25 cm with small carnations, sinking their caps with a doboinik. Then we saturate the linings with linseed oil with a 40 mm flute

Putty and sanding

Putty for small grooves can be prepared by yourself by mixing sawdust on liquid nails in a ratio of 3: 1 by volume. You need to knead quickly, in small portions, and putty just as quickly: the glue sets in a few minutes. Finally, sand the frame with sandpaper.

Reminder: before puttingty, do not forget to reinstall the ebb, on liquid nails and then on regular ones.

Painting

For decades, wooden windows have been painted with oil paint. The best option is to buy thickly grated paint and mix it yourself in linseed or "wood" (walnut) oil, as artists do. "Natural" ready-made oil paints on the market most often turn out to be based on synthetic or mineral oil thinners, which are much inferior in durability to traditional ones. Glyphthal and pentaphthalic enamels are poorly suited: after 5 years the window will require repainting, and unnecessary layers of paint spoil the look.

When purchasing a thick paste, make sure the pigment is mineral and not synthetic. White can be tested by rubbing a pinch between the fingers: there should be no slippery sensation and the powder should stick to the fingers. The synthetic pigment almost completely flies off when shaken off.

Advice: the main parts of the paint are pigment, filler (dry) and thinner. If you want the windows to shine for a very long time, choose a paint filled with marble flour (microcarbonate).

Knead the oil paint in a wide flat dish: pour it in a bunch, make a hole in its top, pour oil there and knead. The oil is added in small portions to the desired thickness. For windows, you need the consistency of liquid sour cream.

Video: an example of painting a wooden window

Finishing

Finishing "by nature" in the described technology is made with stains. Stains change the tone of the wood and accentuate its texture: an ordinary commercial pine after treatment with a suitable stain can be almost indistinguishable in appearance from bog oak, pandana or mahogany. It is advisable to experiment on old chocks before decorative finishing: choose the tone and degree of dilution.

Finishing with wood stains also has additional advantages: the coloring composition penetrates deeply, coloring the wood in the mass, so that after sanding, in case of repair, it will not have to be painted over. In addition, the stain increases the wood's resistance to decay and UV rays.

The decorative finishing of the window is completed by its varnishing with transparent or tinted acrylic varnish, the installation of fittings and glass. The only competitor to acrylic in terms of quality is Japanese tung varnish, but not every oligarch can afford it.

Glazing

Before installing the glasses into the inner corners of the quarters under them, squeeze out aquarium silicone glue over a thin sausage. After fixing the glasses with carnations, remove the silicone drips with a cloth moistened with vinegar. It is not necessary to wipe the cloves dry from the silicone: it will protect them from corrosion. After the silicone hardens (2 mm / day), we seal the glass with putty, as usual: chalk mixed with drying oil. If the glasses are to be fixed with glazing beads, they must be pre-processed, like other wooden parts, and painted.

Outcome

The old technology of restoring wooden windows, complemented by modern materials, works wonders. A completely shabby window, which has been in the hands of a skillful and neat craftsman, looks no worse than a plastic one, and retains all the useful properties of a tree.

Video: an example of work on basic repair and insulation of windows

Moving into an apartment or starting a renovation, do not rush to change wooden windows for plastic counterparts "from the best European manufacturers." Even if the window frames are dilapidated, they can be quite suitable for further use. Most of the old windows were made back in Soviet times, when the requirements for the quality of material and manufacturing were quite high. Of course, repairs, insulation and external finishing may be required, but if you wish, if you have free time and minimal money investments, there is every chance of getting a decent result.

Which windows makes sense to restore

In order to assess the feasibility of the restoration, it is necessary to take into account the material from which the frames are made. Larch and pine have a "life" limit of 25–35 years, beech and oak - more than 50 years.

The restoration will not meet your expectations if:

• there is a complete loosening of window frames in the openings;
• the wood of the windows is dry;
• the structure of the tree looks loose, when pressed, dents remain;
• dark spots appear under the paint (under them, as a rule, dust and rot);
• windows are seriously damaged (frames are split, etc.);
• visual inspection shows that the frames are bent or strongly deformed during operation.

Before restoring, also pay attention to the fact that the wood must be dry.

Photo Gallery: Materials Needed to Repair Old Wooden Frames

Using a primer will significantly extend the life of wooden windows
Alkyd paint is considered the most popular for painting window frames. The film will allow not only to keep warm, but also to protect the room from unwanted light. In most cases, the tubular seal is equipped with an adhesive strip, which greatly facilitates its installation on a window frame Silicone window sealant will eliminate even the smallest gaps Paper strips can be purchased, although it is not at all difficult to make them yourself.
Antiseptic treatment will protect windows from mold and mildew
The putty removes cracks and chips on old frames With the help of metal corners, the window geometry is corrected

Removing old paint from window frames

The paint can be removed thermally or chemically.

Thermal method

To perform thermal cleaning, we need an industrial hair dryer (heat gun).

Do not try to heat wood with a household hairdryer. It will not give the desired temperature (200 °). Also, do not use a blowtorch or propane torch - you will only carbonize the surface!

The industrial hair dryer sets the temperature in the range of 200-250 °... The above is not necessary, as this will lead to a loss in the quality of the material. It is advisable to put on a narrow nozzle on the heat-generating hole, which will prevent the glass from heating. They should be included in the set of such heat devices.

The frame must be placed on a narrow edge and rotated as needed. We consistently heat up areas of 20-30 cm, while holding the hairdryer at a distance of 10-15 cm from the frame. When the paint starts to bubble, remove it with a spatula or a boot knife.

Remember that the hair dryer quickly overheats, so observe the regime: 5 minutes of operation - 10 minutes of cooling.

You should not use a sharpened spatula, it will slip on the old paint or, conversely, cut into the surface.

Chemical method

The chemical method is effective only with a small number of layers of old paint. A special reagent, which is sold in hardware stores, is applied to the surface and left for a certain time according to the instructions. Then remove the softened paint with a spatula and rags.

The substances used are toxic, so it is better to do the work outdoors (or on an open balcony). Also remember about protective equipment: gloves, respirator, glasses.

Putty and primer

Before carrying out this operation, you should carefully examine the window and mark all cracks and chips with a marker, and then walk with sandpaper to eliminate obvious roughness. Any cracks and irregularities found should be treated with an oil or latex filler.

A rubber spatula is used to carry out the work. Excess putty should be removed immediately, after it hardens it will be problematic.

Wood putty has a certain drying time according to the instructions, which must be observed.

As soon as the first layer of putty dries, if necessary, apply the second one. When the second layer is dry, you should walk with fine-grained emery paper over the putty surfaces.

Straightening geometry

Drafts when the window is closed, increased audibility of street noise, as well as squeaks and significant physical effort required to open or close a window are typical signs of broken window geometry. Check the geometry of the flaps, if necessary, adjust them and secure the result by installing metal corners.

Note that the geometry of the window does not always have to obey the "right angle" rule. If, for example, the window frame itself is slightly skewed, then it makes no sense to check the geometry of the window using a square. Better to pay attention to how the window closes and opens.

The geometry is adjusted by adjusting the tension of the screws located in the window hinges. If during closing the window sash catches the frame, adjustment of the upper hinge is required. The bottom hinge is responsible for moving the sash to the right / left.

Metal corners are attached at the joints of the frame parts and have both decorative and fixing purposes. The correct location for the corners is on the inside of the window. Quantity - four pieces per frame. For installation, first, using a chisel, prepare the grooves of the desired size. We insert the corners into the grooves. We check the accuracy of the installation: we check the length of the frame diagonals.

Warming

There are several ways to reduce the heat loss of windows using:

• paper for pasting windows;
• silicone sealants;
• fabric strips;
• tubular profiles;
• seals in the frame sashes;
• heat-saving film.

The last two methods are the most effective and aesthetically pleasing.

To begin with, we process the junction of the glass and sash with silicone sealant.

Then, along the perimeter of the sash with a milling cutter at an angle of 45 ° in the direction of the strip, cut out a groove 5 mm deep, remove the chips from the channel. In the resulting groove along the entire length, we successively press the PVC sealant, without stretching it at the same time.

The seal, in addition to protecting against drafts, provides additional sound insulation.

Recently, energy-saving films have been used to insulate windows. It is transparent, does not impair visibility and has a self-adhesive base.

Its functional features are as follows: the film transmits daylight, but prevents heat transfer from the room, which allows you to save up to 60% of the heat leaving through the windows. The method of applying each specific film is described in detail in the instructions attached to it.

Window decoration

Before painting the frame, it should be impregnated with an antiseptic. This will avoid fungal infections and rotting. If the climate in your region is dry enough, then the antiseptic may not be used. Then priming is carried out. Alkyd, acrylic and polystyrene primers are considered the most suitable for wooden frames.

After the primer is dry, the frames can be painted.

Three different types of paint can be used:

It is advisable to paint the windows in two or three layers. Thin paint properly with solvent. Better to do this as you use it. For example, pour 300-500 grams into a separate container and mix there. Optimum consistency allows for a clean, even layer that does not flow.

For the first layer, it is desirable to use a thinner paint consistency. Do not try to cover up all visible defects at once. The first layer is partially absorbed. Be sure to let it dry well, otherwise the second layer applied to a damp surface will be covered with wrinkles and bubbles.

To avoid the unpleasant procedure for removing paint from glass, use a special masking tape, having previously glued it to the glass close to the frame.

If you do not want to paint the frames, as an option, you can simply varnish them. Varnishing happens:

• Opaque - using pigmented varnishes that completely hide the texture and color of the wood;
• Transparent - colorless varnish is used for it, preserving the natural appearance of the tree.

Of course, there are other types of window frame finishes, such as imitation and special. They are quite time consuming and require a certain level of professional training, as well as the use of special tools.

After the finish coat has dried, new window fittings are installed, if necessary. The process of replacing loops requires comments here. First, we correctly determine the place of their attachment. For this purpose, we insert the frame into the opening and fix it with wedges. Only when an equal gap between the frame and the opening is reached along the entire perimeter, we mark the places of the mounting points. With a chisel we make a groove for the future planting of the hinge and screw in the self-tapping screws.

Video: DIY window restoration

The following video shows in detail all the stages of the restoration of the window frame.

Was born in 1977 in the city of Donetsk, Ukraine. Graduated from Donetsk Polytechnic Institute (now DonSTU) with a degree in Automated control systems. He worked at the Donetsk Metallurgical Plant. In 1997 he moved to Moscow, where for 8 years he worked in several construction teams.

Do-it-yourself restoration and repair of old wooden windows is an exercise for the patient. But it allows, firstly, to save money, and secondly, to get great looking and well-kept warm windows. After all, along the way with staining, you can lay insulation, which guarantees the absence of drafts. You will get windows according to the so-called "Swedish technology".

Inspection and determination of the scope of work

You meticulously inspect the sash of the window and the frame, open it several times, see if there are any gaps and how large they are. Assess the condition of the wood: are there any rotten areas, if any, what are their sizes.

The first stage is dismantling and assessing the condition of the windows

The first step is to establish whether it is possible to restore the affected areas or whether a rotten fragment requires a complete replacement. If replacement is inevitable, there are only two options: if you know how to work with wood - you cut out the required part yourself, if not - you order it from the joiner. All other window defects can be eliminated by any person with "straight" hands with their own hands.

Tools and materials

Since we are repairing old windows, we will need to remove the old paint: restoration without this is almost impossible. For this you will need:

• a building hair dryer or a thick plastic bag, rags and 0.5 liters of pure kerosene;
• spatulas, wide knife (boot).

In the future, it will be necessary to repair damage, level the frame and sashes, etc. The set of tools here is more extensive, but even if you buy them, it will not take very much money, and you can make them even less if you rent them.

We collect the necessary tools

• hacksaw, jigsaw, hacksaw blades;
• plane, chisels, sampling (if any - excellent);
• drill and drills of different diameters;
• dense wood for wedges and dowels;
• drying oil for impregnation or ready-made primers;
• putty on wood;
• rubber sealing cord;
• new fittings: hinges, latches;
• large, preferably carpentry square, building level, slope;
• glazing beads and silicone sealant.

For impregnation, you may need either factory compounds and a brush, a metal vessel, drying oil, an electric stove or a heat gun.

Need some special tools and a large flat surface

And the last stage of restoration will be staining. This stage is very important - the appearance and service life until the next repair depends on the quality of the work.

• set of brushes;
• paint for windows or stain and varnish, if you want to preserve the natural look of wood.

The procedure for the restoration of wooden windows

It all starts with dismantling. The sashes are removed first, then the frame itself. Can I not remove the window frame? It is possible only in one case, if it is in perfect condition: there is no damage to the wood, all angles are exactly 90 o and no defects. But it will be more difficult to work. In all other cases, the dismantling is complete.

Glasses are carefully removed from the doors, the old putty is peeled off, all the carnations are given. Fittings are removed from all parts: they must be replaced. Now the external ebb tides are carefully removed: the nails with which they were attached are probably almost crumbling.

Removing the paint

You can use a building hair dryer, setting the temperature to 200-250 o C. It is better not to set it anymore: wood loses most of its properties during high-temperature processing. For the same reason, it is undesirable to use a blowtorch: even without charring, you will break the structure of the wood and it will collapse faster.

Remove paint from the window, heating the surface in a small area. Bubbles quickly appear on the surface, and you need to pry them off with a wide knife, scraper or spatula. It is better to find an old spatula with a rounded blade already: the new one often "cuts" into the wood, and then it will take a long time to grind. In general, it is more convenient to work with a wide knife, which is used by shoemakers.

The restoration of a wooden door begins with the removal of old paint or varnish

The second method is chemical softening. There are modern compositions for softening paint, but how they affect the structure of wood is a question. You can use the old, proven method: treat with kerosene. You will need a large bag made of thick plastic wrap (must be whole, without a single hole), old cotton rags (they should not fade) and kerosene. It is undesirable to use other solvents - they again affect the structure of wood fibers.

Wrap the frame with strips of fabric, put it in a bag (its height should be enough for the neck to be tied). Pour out the kerosene and tie the bag tightly. After a day, you can remove the paint. But do not take everything out at once - while they are processing one part, the paint will harden on the others. We took out one part, tied the sack, removed the paint. They took up the next one.

It is better to work with any chemically active preparations with gloves.

When removing paint in shallow depressions and cracks, the paint can not be removed: less need to putty and level. But this is only if you paint the window. If you plan to varnish, you will have to do everything scrupulously. But for the first experience, it is better to process it with paint: easier and faster.

Align the frame

For leveling, a fairly large, absolutely flat surface will be needed. This can be a table (but the surface is necessarily flat), a workbench, a sheet of plywood laid on stools, etc.

The first is to align the frame. Laying and setting the corners. They should be exactly 90 o. We inspect the contour: the strips should be even. At this stage, we remove the places affected by rot or replace the completely rotten parts of the frame with freshly made ones. (How to process a rotten area is written a little below).

Leveling and sorting out the frame

We check the planks in vertical and horizontal planes, remove the excess with a plane. In the corners we earn extra money with chisels. The result should be perfectly straight, level surfaces. Check the corners again, measure and align the diagonals, fasten the frame at the corners with nails. Then we take a skin or a sander (belt) and process until smooth.

We restore the sashes

We disassemble the connections of the shutters. They are assembled on pins - small round wooden hairpins. For windows that have served for more than a decade, they must be replaced. It is easier not to knock them out (you can do it this way), but drill with a drill of a smaller diameter. Then remove the remnants and clean the hole for the installation of a new retainer.

If necessary, the sash can be disassembled completely into planks. Clean the joints, align the planks, cut off all unnecessary things with a plane, having worked part-time where the corners are needed. In general, put everything in order.

This is an old dowel. It is advisable to remove it and put a new one in its place.

The next stage is the assembly of the sashes. Fold, processed boards, measure diagonals and corners. Now a tricky operation: you need to remove the strips, coat the grooves and joints with glue and install them back. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the sash does not warp. After setting the bar in place until the glue has seized, set the corners and diagonals.

After assembly, for greater reliability, we will install new pins. Let's make them first. We take a core drill with an inner diameter of 5-7 mm. Drill cylinders from a block of dense wood across the fibers (exactly across). These will be pins. The diameter of the stud should be slightly larger than the drilled hole in the frame (about 0.5 mm). So it will sit tightly and hold the structure well.

Do not use planed chopiks instead of dowels: the window will have to be repaired again in a couple of years. Cut across the grain, they will hold their shape for at least 10 years.

Wedges are cut from a piece of oak or mountain ash. Their width is 5-7 mm: depending on the diameter of the prepared pins, and their thickness is 1.5-2 mm. They are then driven along the fibers, wedging the hairpin and achieving excellent fixation.

If, as a result of the bulkhead, the hole becomes uneven, level it with a file, or with a drill. But try not to make it wider. Coat the seat with wood glue (it must be of good quality), drive in the pins. They fit well with the glue. Then use a screwdriver to make a groove along the fibers, into which insert the cut wedge, and hammer it in. Cut off the excess with a sharp knife so that everything is even.

Wooden pins will securely hold the sash parts together

So we change all connections, constantly controlling the geometry of the sashes. After everything is assembled, the flaps should be quite stiff, but do not wobble them too much: the glue has not yet dried.

After all operations, the sash can be of different heights. We level them so that they are the same both inside and out. Now we take the frame and put the sashes into it. They are definitely less than necessary. To make them sit tightly, glue strips of plywood of suitable thickness and width onto the frame on liquid nails.

All parts (and the frame) are laid on a flat surface, the load is placed on them. You can lay it on a flat floor, on top of several boards, and below them a solid load: about 100 kg. Leave to dry and level for two or three days.

After the glue has dried, we bring the frames to the norm, where necessary, by sanding and making notches. We mark the places for fastening the fittings, we make recesses for it.

Installing the seal

How to lay a seal in windows using Swedish technology, the shapes of these seals are described in detail in the video.

Impregnation

There are various ready-made impregnations. How to use them is described in the instructions. There is nothing complicated in the process: under certain conditions, you need to apply the composition and wait until it dries. There can be several treatments, one or different compositions.

But there are craftsmen who are sure that the polymers included in the impregnation deteriorate the thermal insulation properties of wood. They work only and exclusively with drying oil. Moreover, there are two processing methods: cold and hot.

With the cold method, the heated drying oil is applied with a brush to the frame and sash of the window. Leave until completely absorbed and dry, when the surface becomes non-sticky to the touch. The treatment is repeated four times. Such processing guarantees the excellent condition of wood and paintwork for 5 years. After that you have to repaint.

Linseed oil impregnation is a great way to preserve wood

During hot processing, drying oil is heated in a vessel to high temperatures. This occupation is fire hazardous - drying oil can flare up. Therefore, we first prepare a piece of tarpaulin, felt, etc., with which it will be possible to cover the vessel. It is better to heat it on a heat gun or hot air from an electric stove (not on a stove, but above it): sometimes it is necessary to quickly remove the heat source in order to avoid a fire. Because the fire is not suitable.

The parts are dipped into the drying oil heated to a boil for a few minutes

After some time, the drying oil begins to bubble: air, moisture comes out. There is one important point: when the bubbles are already going, it happens that the smell of drying oil increases sharply. The heat source must be removed quickly. If you hesitate, the vapors will flare up, a mat will come in handy. If you have time in time, it will pass without incidents. Heating can be continued after a few minutes. When the bubbles are gone, you can saturate the parts.

The part is immersed in a heated drying oil for 3-5 minutes. At the same time, it is convenient to work with a crochet: they can hold it and pull it out conveniently. After pulling it out, carefully put it on a clean place to dry. Do not grasp the parts with your hands. Even in mittens: hot linseed oil will soak them in an instant, and burn your hands. The burn will be serious: the temperature is about 130 o C.

Craftsmen say that after such processing, wood can stand even on the street for decades. With good paint, its renewal will be required no earlier than 10-15 years. Like this.

Putty and sandpaper

Now the frames are rigid and fear nothing. Now we putty and sand them. For significant damage, we use a coarse filler with sawdust. For a thinner and softer finish. If you will paint the window white, take white putties. They will not be visible through the paint.

The technique is simple: fill the cracks and crevices with putty, then remove the excess. Metal spatulas of small width are used more often. But in some places it is more convenient to work with rubber: they are designed for grouting when laying tiles, but they are also convenient to work with putty.

The use of technology will increase the speed of work

After the composition has dried, take a medium-grain sandpaper (sander) and clean off the excess, if any. At the same time, go through the entire frame, bringing everything back to normal, leveling the irregularities. Then, with fine-grain emery paper, everything is leveled to an ideal (as far as possible) state.

Dyeing

You choose the type of paint yourself, based on your preferences. The only thing you can advise is whether to take glossy or semi-glossy ones. They retain their color for a long time. This is especially true for white paints. Surfaces painted with matt white paint quickly turn gray: they have a porous structure, which gives them a “matte finish”. These pores are clogged with microscopic dust particles, which give a grayish tint. Therefore, for perfectly white windows, take a gloss or semi-gloss.

The first layer is a primer. This is one part of paint diluted with two parts of a suitable solvent. After the primer is dry, the base paint can be applied. There will be several layers, so everything will be painted over.

Apply the paint in thin layers in different directions

Do not take a lot of paint on the brush: there will be drips, which are not easy to deal with. You dip, squeeze, rub well. You need to move from top to bottom without changing direction. Only in this way will the layer be even. Apply the first layer by brushing from left to right, the second from top to bottom, and the third layer from right to left.

Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one is completely dry. If after the first application of the paint there are streaks and irregularities, after the paint has dried, take the sandpaper and clean them. Just don't rub it down to wood. Make the second layer more accurate, but here you can still sand it a little. The third should be flawless. Once the paint is dry, your DIY refurbished window can be reattached.

Glazing

Installing glass is not the most difficult thing, but it is responsible. Prepare a transparent moisture-proof and frost-proof sealant. You coat the seat with it, insert the glass. On the other hand, they are pressed with glazing beads. They are also treated with sandpaper, impregnated and painted. Then they coat the glass with a sealant around the perimeter, press the glazing beads and fix them with small carnations.

Replacing rotted sections of a wooden frame

If the site is rotten, you can help grief in two ways:

• cover with a special reinforced putty, recreating the required shape;
• remove the damaged area by inserting a patch in its place.

A surefire way to eliminate rot is to cut out the damaged area

The second option would be more correct in terms of durability: here it is possible to remove the entire infected area, ensuring that the rot does not spread further. The technique is simple. Saw out the affected area, grabbing some healthy wood. Cut out a piece of exactly the same shape. Lubricate the joints with wood glue, insert the patch, level it, if necessary, fix it, leave it until the glue is completely dry.

After that, it is necessary to putty the seam, sand and paint. Everything. The window frame (or sash) has been restored.

But it is not always possible (or willing) to cut out a damaged piece of wood. Then you can use an epoxy putty with reinforcing fiber. Once dry, it is tough enough to keep its shape.

The first step is to separate everything that can be removed. All the dust and rot. We blow off the dust, where possible, we get to a healthy tree. If you plan to use the restored frame for a long time, it is necessary to treat with antiseptic impregnations: to prevent the spread of rot as much as possible.

The decayed section of the window frame can be restored with a filler with reinforcing fiber

After that, the composition is applied to the damaged part with a spatula. Putties of this type have a rather thick consistency, you can mold any configuration. Give a shape close to the desired one, but slightly larger in size: after drying, it will be possible to sand and level the level. It takes about a day to dry, but the exact time depends on the composition, temperature and humidity of the air. After sanding and leveling, it remains only to paint the window. Then nothing will be noticeable at all.

Outcomes

You do not need any super-abilities to repair and restore wooden windows with your own hands. Not the most sophisticated tools are required, accuracy, patience and a fairly decent amount of time.