Punching a log house with your own hands. Caulking a log house: how, when and how should it be done? The rest of the heaters should not be used, as this will lead to undesirable consequences.

Now the fashion for the construction of baths and residential buildings made of natural wood has revived. Log cabins have a respectable appearance, are warm and environmentally friendly, which is very much appreciated by modern people. But even such reliable and energy-efficient buildings should be additionally insulated in order to feel truly comfortable in them in any weather.

Caulk - what kind of operation?

Since ancient times in Russia, most buildings were built of logs. Such buildings have always been called log cabins. In recent years, interest in them has increased significantly, due to the special operational properties of wooden houses and baths. The construction of log cabins today is offered by many companies. Experienced home craftsmen build cozy dwellings and hot steam rooms from logs with their own hands. In this article, we will not describe the technology for constructing eco-friendly buildings, but talk about how to make them warmer. It will be about the rules for caulking wooden structures. Believe me, it will not be possible to equip a really cozy sauna or a residential building without this operation.

First, let's figure out why you need to caulk a log house? Everything is simple here. During installation, between the logs from which this or that structure is built, there are gaps and voids. It is clear that you cannot leave them. Indeed, through such small, at first glance, gaps, precious heat will leave the room. Instead of a comfortable building, we will get a bathhouse or a house blown by all the winds. Caulking allows to solve this problem. It is understood as the procedure for carefully sealing all the gaps between the logs using special tools and materials. All of their varieties will be described below.

Tools for insulating log cabins - unusual, but easy to use

Caulking any log house can be done independently. To do this, you will need to study the technology of the operation and stock up on a special tool:

1. A flat trowel made of solid wood or metal. We need to purchase a tool with a blade about 5.5 mm thick and 10 cm wide. This blade, called a flat caulk, is the main device for insulating log buildings.
2. A tool, referred to by specialists as a road builder, of a triangular shape with a blade of 8–15 mm thick and at least 17 cm wide, along which a special groove is made. This caulk is needed to form smooth rollers from the strands of the used sealing material.
3. The so-called crooked caulk - a flat chisel. The thickness of its working part is 5 mm, the width is about 5.5 cm. The chisel makes it possible to seal the seams on the rounded parts and in the corners of the log structure.
4. A wooden mallet (mallet). With its help, you can easily fill the seal without worrying that it will deform or collapse. It is allowed to work with ordinary hammers.

In addition, you need to buy two split caulkers - a narrow one and a wide one. The width of such devices, visually resembling a wedge, should be approximately 3.5 cm. Breaking tools are necessary to widen narrow gaps. After using them, the insulation material is much easier to place in gaps and voids.

The working parts of all these tools must be as smooth as possible, and the ends must not be sharp.

A rough surface will not allow you to perform the planned work with high quality, since the fibers of the insulation will cling to the caulking and pull out of the gaps. And too sharp blades will cut the material used for the thermal insulation of the log house.

We add that there is no need to be intimidated by unfamiliar names. Every self-taught master can use the caulking tool.

Caulking materials - assortment for every taste

Thermal insulation of log cabins is carried out with different heaters (by the way, they are usually called inter-crown insulation), both traditional and more modern. The most famous caulking material is moss. It can be white and red. Our ancestors used it in the construction of buildings from logs. Moss is an environmentally friendly natural material. He possesses:

low thermal conductivity;
antimicrobial and antiseptic properties;
resistance to temperature extremes (this is especially important if we insulate the bath);
durability.

It is almost impossible to buy moss in building stores. Therefore, if you plan to use it, you will have to take care of the collection and proper preparation of this material yourself. Here you need to know the following. It is advisable to collect moss in November. At this time, there are practically no insects and snails in it. We carefully sort the collected material, throw out rotten particles, remove debris and lumps of soil. After that, dry the moss. Don't overdo it. Overdried moss cannot be used, it becomes too brittle. It is almost impossible to put it in the gaps between the crowns and place it tightly there.

An alternative to moss is tow. It is made from flax fibers. Such material can be tape (roll) or bale. Experts recommend using the first type of tow. It is easier to push the insulation in the form of a tape into the seams. And the heat-shielding properties of rolled products are higher. Bale tow is cheaper. But it is characterized by tough and short fibers. It is very inconvenient to work with such material. The key advantages of tow are not electrifying, low thermal conductivity, affordable price, antibacterial properties. Disadvantages of the material - the insulated seam has an unaesthetic appearance, the laying process is complex and time-consuming. For these reasons, domestic craftsmen rarely use tow.

10-15 years ago, log cabins were often insulated with natural felt. It is environmentally friendly, easy to use, protects the building from street noise and odors, and has increased vapor permeability. But, unfortunately, this material has two serious drawbacks. First, moths love him very much. She literally gnaws at the insulation. Secondly, the felt is prone to rotting.

Jute is devoid of these drawbacks - a pliable, soft material in the form of ribbons and ropes of different thicknesses. It can be matched to any seam. Jute, according to experts, creates an optimal microclimate in a log house. And most importantly, it is enough to simply mount it in the gap between the logs.

If a log house is built by professionals from an ordinary log or from a cylinder, it has a semicircular groove and gaps of small thickness, it is allowed to insulate it with a sealant. This is the most modern and simplest way of thermal insulation of wooden buildings. The sealant cannot be used in the presence of large slots in thickness and in cases where the grooves of the structure are in the shape of a triangle. In such situations, there will be no sense from him.

We will protect a wooden building from cold weather and winds ourselves

Caulking a bath or a residential building from logs is carried out twice. For the first time, insulation is carried out directly during the construction of a log house. We need to lay the selected material after installing each of its crowns. If we use insulation in the form of a tape, the operation takes place with a minimum of time. We roll out the insulation along the crown, fix it with a construction stapler (staples). If it is necessary to lay an additional tape, we mount it on the previous one with a 5 cm overlap. We cover the installed material with the next crown and repeat the procedure.

If you use moss, you will have to tinker a little longer. We take a bunch of dried material (moisten if necessary), lay it across the log. The fibers should hang 5–6 cm from each side of the log. Then, close to the first, we lay the second bundle. We make a layer of moss quite impressive. The tree should not show through it. The thicker the layer, the better the insulation will be.

The second part of caulking is performed after the installation of all the crowns of the structure and the installation of the roof on it. Re-insulation is needed for any structure, be it a residential building or a bathhouse. The wall insulation scheme is as follows:

1. Take a bunch of tow (moss, felt), apply it to the seam between the logs, press the fibers into the gap with a caulking blade. We start work from the end of the building from the bottom row.
2. Gently twist the protruding ends of the material. We will have a roller that is 8-10 cm long. It should be applied to the gap and pushed back between the logs using caulking, leaving only a small tip.
3. Weave the next bundle of material into the free end and continue to insulate the frame. The roller cannot be interrupted. Along the entire length of the gap, it must remain intact.

It will take a lot of time to complete such a laborious operation. But then we get a well-sealed building. And you can reduce labor costs by using not tow or moss, but tape materials. They are much faster and easier to mount. We just cut off the piece of tape required in length and start hammering it into the seams. After warming the walls, we proceed to the thermal insulation of the corners of the log house. This operation is also easier to carry out with tapes. They are pushed into the gaps with a curved caulk.

Caulking with a sealant is allowed after complete shrinkage of the structure. The procedure for performing such work is given below:

1. We thoroughly clean the seams between the crowns from debris and dust, wipe them with a dry cloth.
2. We treat all joints with a primer (water-based or rubber-based primer) using a spray gun or a regular brush.
3. We are waiting for the soil to dry.
4. We put a plait made of polyethylene (foamed) into the gaps. We select products that match the width of the seams.
5. Apply sealant.

To give the log house an elegant look, we process the insulated joints with a tinting or colorless varnish.

High-quality caulking is one of the most important pledges of its reliable thermal insulation. It is highly discouraged to neglect this process, because the comfort and healthy microclimate of the steam room are at stake. But how to properly caulk a log house in order to avoid even the likelihood of the formation of voids, which can negate all the thermal properties of the structure? We will understand this in detail further: we will find out the features of materials for protecting the bathhouse - jute, tow and moss, get acquainted with the rules and technologies of caulking, and also watch a video of direct work with a log house.

Caulking materials

Moss, tow and jute are considered traditional materials for caulking a bath from a bar. Let's outline the main features of each of them.

Moss... Environmentally friendly raw materials with high antiseptic qualities. Advantages: minimal thermal conductivity, high resistance to temperature extremes, low cost. Disadvantages: the need for long preparation for work. Purchased moss must be moistened and then dried before laying. If you collect material with your own hands, it must be carefully sorted out to remove debris and soil, and also dry.

Advice. It is not necessary to completely dry the moss, otherwise it will become brittle and completely unsuitable for caulking.

Tow... Fabric based on soft yet durable linen fibers. Advantages: low thermal conductivity, minimal tendency to electrification, high absorbency, quick drying. Disadvantages: Difficulty laying and unaesthetic seams remaining after caulking.
Jute... Jute wood insulation material. Advantages: high strength, minimal hygroscopicity, inertness to decay, resistance to moisture, ease of installation. Disadvantages: fast material caking and short service life.

Caulking materials

General rules for caulking

The main features of the cauldron of a bath from a bar:

Caulking must be performed two times: the first - either directly in the process of laying the timber, or immediately after collecting the box of the building, the second - after the final shrinkage of the log house, that is, after a year or two.

Advice. If you carry out caulking after the completion of the construction of the bath, do it before the external finishing of the object, since the sealing material will raise the frame by 5-7 cm.

Insulation must be laid on each row of the timber.
Heat-insulating raw materials should protrude 5 cm beyond the boundaries of the log grooves on both sides of the log house.
Caulking must be done both from the outside and from the inside of the walls of the bath.
It is necessary to process the blockhouse in a clear sequence: first, close the external voids around the perimeter of the lower trim, then follow the same steps on the inside of the building; then go outside again and process the second crown of the log house - repeat the procedure from the inside. Using the same scheme, step by step, protect the entire inner and outer surfaces of the walls.

Caulking process

Caulking technologies

There are two ways to caulk a log house - "stretching" and "in a set".

Stretch-in technology is appropriate if the voids between the timber are very narrow - almost imperceptible. The material is laid as follows:

form strands from insulation;
lay the resulting strands across the fibers into the voids of the log house, pushing them with a wooden spatula;
Tuck the edges of the material (about 5 cm) and use caulk to hammer them into the slots.

If the voids between the rows of the timber are deep and wide, it is advisable to use the "in-set" caulking technology:

form long strands of at least 15 mm in thickness from the heat-insulating material and wind them into a continuous ball;
gradually unwinding the ball, fill the voids of the log house with the material, sealing it with caulking;
to get aesthetic seams, carefully go over the material with a road builder.

Advice. For those where the gaps are of different sizes, gain the thickness of the filler by turning the strands or simply twisting them into loops. In this case, first cover the top of the voids, and then the bottom.

As you can see, caulking a bath is a painstaking process, the success of which depends on several factors at once: the quality of the material, the technology of its laying and the sequence of work. To cope with the task and provide the steam room with good thermal insulation, carefully think over each of the indicated nuances and stock up on exposure, because caulking does not tolerate haste.

How to caulk a house from a bar: video

How to caulk a bath: photo

One of the main measures for warming a bath from a log house is caulking (caulking). Caulking is a clogging of gaps between the crowns of a log house with environmentally friendly insulation materials. In this article, we talk about how to make a caulking of a log house yourself and what materials and tools will be required for this.

Article
Video

Purpose of caulking a log house

After all the rims of the bathhouse from the log house are laid, inserted and the roof is closed, it is necessary to proceed to the process. The log house has been insulated for a long time, and this process has practically not changed to this day. The only thing that has changed is the materials and tools for caulking (we will talk about them a little later).

Caulking a blockhouse is necessary for the following reasons:

For a well-insulated, it will take less time to warm up the steam room and other rooms
The log house tends to dry out, as a result of which gaps are formed in the construction of the bath, which will need to be hammered
If heat comes out of the bath, condensation will form outside the log house, which will entail rotting of the log house
Heating a well-insulated bath requires less fuel (coal, gas, wood or even electricity)

As you can see, log caulking is a very serious and at the same time useful exercise.

When do you need to caulk a log house?

As we know, it takes at least one year to shrink a log building. Based on this, there is a lot of disagreement about the timing of the caulking.

The first caulking of a log house must be carried out immediately after laying all the crowns and overlapping the roof.

The second caulking of the log house is carried out after the bath has partially settled down (about a year later). Despite the fact that during the first caulking all the gaps will be tightly clogged, a year later there will be a place for another bath warming in the inter-crown gaps.

Well, the last caulking of the log house should be carried out at the time when the bath is completely seated, no later than 5 years later.

We draw your attention to the fact that do-it-yourself caulking of a log house must be carried out both from the outside of the bath, and from the inside. Another important point: during high-quality caulking, the bath can rise by about 7-10 cm, so it is better not to fix it to the roof, so that it does not deform during this time.

Materials for caulking a log house

Today, you can use moss, tow, special sealant, jute and flax for caulking a log house with your own hands. Let's take a quick look at the benefits of each material.

Moss

Previously, the log house was caulked with moss. This material for caulking is still used by some builders, but most of the experts prefer more modern materials.

The advantages of moss are that it is 100% environmentally friendly material that has antimicrobial properties and at the same time has a high durability.

The disadvantage of caulking a log house with moss is the high cost of this insulation.

Caulking moss should not be too dry, but at the same time, it should not be too wet.

Tow is also often used for caulking a log house, but this material is not recommended. First, the caulking of a tow log is a very laborious process. Secondly, the tow absorbs moisture, so after a few seasons it can start to rot, thereby damaging the crown of the log house. Thirdly, it is very difficult to pick out rotted tow from the cracks between the wedges, especially since the repeated caulking is not a very pleasant process. And fourthly, tow is a treat for moths.

Jute is an environmentally friendly material of plant origin. It is often used for caulking a log house with your own hands, because this material has the following advantages:

The material has high strength
Jute practically does not absorb water, which means it does not rot
Jute has good thermal insulation properties

We draw your attention to the fact that often in hardware stores instead of jute they offer an analogue - jute felt. We do not recommend using jute felt for caulking a log house, because this material has a share of flax, and this significantly reduces the strength and increases the hygroscopic properties of the material.

The caulking of a log house with jute is carried out during the construction of a structure from a log house. The material is placed on top of the crowns and fixed with a construction stapler.

Flax is also used for log caulking. This material consists of compacted flax dust, which is made with long belts. Flax, like jute, has high strength and heat-insulating properties.

Sealant

Special sealants for log caulking are also gaining popularity. They are most often used together with jute. There are different types of sealants depending on the width of the cracks. We draw your attention to the fact that it is advisable to use the sealant together with jute or flax, this will make the thermal insulation of the bath more effective.

To date, the following set of tools is used for do-it-yourself caulking of a log house:

Type-setting caulking
Curve caulking (requires skill at work, but more effective)
Road builder (used in conjunction with caulking)
Split caulk (narrower, in some places it is more convenient to work with it)
Mallet (used to drive caulk in a crevice)

It is recommended to use soft caulks (for example, made of wood), because they will not damage the surface of the log house. The only problem is that soft caulking is more difficult to use, but after a few warming, you will definitely adapt to this tool.

Diy caulking technology

The technology of caulking with your own hands is quite complicated, although you cannot say this from the outside. As we said earlier, when caulking a log house, the structure becomes 7-10 cm higher, so you need to caulk evenly and correctly.

You should be aware that no finishing measures should be taken before caulking the log house, because they will be damaged immediately when the structure is being lifted.

Correct caulking of a log house implies warming the inter-crown space in tiers (from lower to upper). First, caulk the lowest joint (between the first and second crown). This must be done along the perimeter, starting from one corner and ending with it. As soon as the tier is insulated, you need to move to the overlying crown.

We draw your attention to the fact that it is extremely forbidden to carry out isolated caulking (for example, only one wall), because log structure can be noticeably skewed.

It should be noted that experienced builders can level a skewed log house using only caulking.

When caulking a log house, it is necessary to carefully hammer in the insulation at the corners, because these nodes need it most of all (due to the presence of locks and complex grooves).

There are two ways to caulk a log house with your own hands: "stretching" and "in a set". The first method is used if the gaps between the crowns are small, respectively, the second is intended for wide slots. Let's take a closer look at each of the methods.

For caulking a log house "in a stretch" you will need a strand of insulating material for the length of the entire gap. First, it is necessary to tamp one side of the strand into the gap, then bend the other side (as shown in the picture) and carefully hammer in with a split or inlaid caulk.

This method of caulking a log house with your own hands requires much more insulation material, but it insulates a bathhouse from a log house with better quality. Caulking technology is different: a strand is prepared with a thickness of at least 15 mm. Next, the strands must be cast into loops and alternately hammer each loop into the gap (so that the strand goes across the gap, as shown in the picture). It is necessary to hammer in a strand using a split caulk, knocking the material from above, and then from below. After the strand is completely clogged in the cracks, it is recommended to make the final compaction with a road builder.

Do-it-yourself caulking of a log house is a rather complicated and tedious business. This is the filling between the timber or logs of the walls of the house with fibrous insulation materials, for example, tow, felt or moss, as well as other insulation.

When erecting the walls of wooden houses, a mezhventsovy insulation is laid between a bar or a log, but it does not fill all the cracks and spaces. The process of shrinking a new log house takes a long time, about five years, so you need to caulk a wooden house several times. The first time this procedure is carried out immediately after the construction of the log house, the second - after 2-3 years and the last time it should be capped about 5 years after the construction.

How to caulk a log house correctly? Even in such a simple work, beginners often have questions.

Caulking should start from the lower crown of the log house and fill it completely, without moving on to another crown. Only after finishing the caulking of the lower crown, you should move on to the next one. This rule must be followed if you do not want your walls to warp.

Caulking methods.

Caulking can be done in 2 ways. You should choose the one that suits you best.

Stretching - the insulating material must be stretched along the fibers and inserted into the gap using a special tool. The gap should be completely filled, but on both sides you should leave pieces of tow sticking out 5 cm. A roller is rolled up from the insulation, wrapped in the remaining ends and stuffed into the gap using caulking.

In the set - in this case, from the material wound into a ball, you need to dial the loops and seal the slots with them until they are completely filled. If the spaces between the bars are wide, then this method will suit you better than the previous one.

When caulking a log house with your own hands, you should pay special attention to the corners of the log house. It is inconvenient to carry out work there, so it must be done with special care.

Caulking of a log house from a bar.

The lumber walls should be caulked along the perimeter, starting from the bottom. You can't bury one wall and leave the rest. After all, the timber rises a little and the walls are of different heights.

When caulking a wooden log house from a bar, it may be that there is no gap at all and it is not possible to put the insulation in there. Look from the other side of the gap, from the outside, there is a wide gap.

Caulking of a log house made of rounded logs.

From the walls, erected with the help of ordinary or rounded timber, the insulating material erodes very quickly from the outside. Therefore, it is very important to carry out high-quality caulking at home from a rounded bar. But you should not overdo it here either, with excessive blocking of the insulation, you can tear the logs from each other. First, k is carried out from the outside, and then inside the log house.

Do-it-yourself caulking of log walls is carried out first from the outer and only then from the inner wall. All the walls of the log house should be dug, otherwise the walls will be skewed. The material for a log house will need more than for a lumber one.

Even with the subsequent finishing of the external facade of the house, caulking from the outside should be mandatory. This will not only insulate the room, but will not allow moisture to accumulate in the gaps of the walls and rot the logs. So, no matter what finishing material you choose, you cannot do without caulking a wooden house.

Jute insulation.

Jute insulation material is by far the most common insulation material, which has successfully replaced the traditional tow. Jute is imported from India and China. According to its characteristics, it surpasses all similar materials and is cheaper at prices. Therefore, caulking a log house with jute is an excellent option for warming a house.

A detailed video of the correct caulking:

After the installation of the log house, there are still many works to be done, including the caulking of the bath. This must be done in order to close the gaps between the timber or logs and insulate the walls. Without proper caulking, the bath will be blown out, and the heat will quickly leave the room. In addition, logs or beams will soon become unusable, cracked and damp.

You can easily caulk the bath with your own hands, since this process is not very difficult. But it is important to choose the right materials and carefully follow the technology. Let's find out how and what is the best way to caulk a bath from a log or from a bar.

Features of caulking bath

It is important to perform this procedure correctly, otherwise installation errors will cause the walls to skew or the appearance of serious cracks and cracks. This is a simple process, but rather long and monotonous. Therefore, you need to be patient! Caulking is done six months after the installation of the log house, when the main part of the shrinkage of the tree has passed. After this caulking, you can already put windows and doors.

If a second caulk is needed, the procedure is performed one year after the first (1.5 years after the installation of the frame). Depending on the quality of the work and the material, another caulking may be required in 4-5 years. In any case, this procedure is very important for wooden buildings.

Bath caulking performs the following useful functions:

Reliably closes cracks and gaps in wooden walls between crowns and ceilings, logs and crowns, in window and door frames;
Eliminates cracks in a wooden frame that form during shrinkage. Caulking prevents overgrowth and the appearance of new crevices;
Strengthens the heat-insulating qualities of wood and retains heat inside the room for a long time, which is especially important for a bath;
Protects the room from wind penetration, internal wooden walls - from the negative effects of moisture;
Seals gaps in an already built house or bathhouse.

Among the materials for caulking, natural and synthetic species are distinguished. Natural jute, tow and moss are traditional remedies that have been used for a long time. Industrial sealants are used from modern artificial materials. Each tool is distinguished by pros and cons, and which one to choose is up to each owner to decide. Also, among the tools for caulking you will need a hammer, a 20 mm chisel and a rubber mallet.

Natural materials for caulking

The oldest and most proven method is caulking a bath or at home with moss. It is an environmentally friendly and safe material that will preserve the natural properties and aesthetics of a wooden structure. It effectively resists the negative effects of bacteria and prevents the formation of fungus or mold, quickly absorbs moisture and does not rot. However, it is not very user-friendly. Moss is ideal for baths and for filling cracks in a wooden house.

Jute treatment is also well suited for a bath, as this environmentally friendly material preserves the natural properties and safety of wood. This fiber is distinguished by high strength, thermal insulation, resistance to moisture and decay. Roll material with a flat structure is easy to lay between the crowns. However, jute often becomes a breeding ground for moths, so it is recommended to treat the material with a moth repellent before use.

Tow is a waste after the primary processing of natural fibers from jute, flax or hemp. This is a very difficult and inconvenient material to work with. In addition, when the log shrinks, it gains moisture, rots and turns into dust.

As a result, this dust has to be cleaned and caulked again. Among the advantages of tow, we note the environmental friendliness and safety of the fiber, high antibacterial and thermal insulation properties. However, due to its complexity and fragility, tow is not recommended for caulking a bath or at home.

Sealants

Modern sealants have flooded the construction market for a long time. These are quick, convenient and easy-to-use tools that are well suited for independent work. However, in this case, it is important to choose high-quality sealants from a reliable manufacturer, since some do not tolerate exposure to sunlight and wind poorly.

As a result, they lose their useful properties and are blown out. In addition, some types of sealants, when dry, can destroy the wood fibers. To avoid this, use elastic products (acrylics) that contract or expand with the wood.

At the same time, sealants have a large number of advantages, including not only easy and quick installation. Such products are characterized by high thermal insulation qualities, resistance to moisture, cold and temperature extremes. A warm joint with the use of acrylic sealants is in special demand today. The composition of such a tool includes rubber, which gives elasticity and prevents small hidden cracks from cracking further.

Acrylic sealants are safe and environmentally friendly, so they are great for treating a wooden bath or at home. They do not emit toxic substances and allow the wood to “breathe”. These products can withstand high temperatures, do not have an unpleasant odor, and are distinguished by quick and easy finishing. They do not allow wood to rot and come in a wide range of colors. Read more about acrylic sealants and warm joint technology.

Features of caulking with different materials

If you are using moss, the material must first be completely dry and wet again before use. To do this, soak the material for 30-60 minutes and squeeze thoroughly. The soaked moss is laid out between the crowns in an even layer so that the ends of the material stick out on both sides of the log or bar. After that, too protruding and long parts of the material are cut and tucked into the slots of the log house. After a year, they must do a second caulking.

When using tow, it is better to choose rolled tow, as it is easier to use. If you chose tow in blocks, a strip of material is pulled out of the block and a tourniquet is twisted, which is then laid in a seam. Take jute with a fiber length of more than two centimeters. Short fibers are easy to spill out and blow out.

Caulking with natural materials is carried out in two ways. The stretching method assumes that the material is divided into separate strips and placed in the gaps between the crowns. The insulation remaining outside is rolled into a roller and driven into the groove. The “stacking” method involves separating the fibers into strands and winding them up into a ball, then pushing them into the gaps between the logs or beams.

When choosing a sealant, a heat-insulating cord made of polyethylene or jute fiber is first laid in the cracks. This will reduce the consumption of fixed assets and increase the thermal insulation properties of wood. And then a sealant is applied over the cord in a wet state with a layer thickness of 4-6 mm.

Then the layer is leveled with a spatula or spatula, and the remains are cleaned with a rag. The sealant is left to dry for two days, while it is important to protect the seam from moisture. You will find detailed instructions for use on the packaging of each product.

Sauna caulking technology

Before starting work, logs or beams are cleaned of dust and dirt. You can close the wooden surface with construction tape or masking tape so that the insulation does not get on the walls of the log house;
Start with the bottom rim and move around the perimeter of the bath first on the outside, then process the bottom rim along the perimeter on the inside. Only then move on to the next crown! Each crown should be caulked in turn, without skipping the rows;
Pay special attention to the corners of the bath, as there are a large number of cracks and large gaps in these places;
In the process, carefully monitor the evenness of the walls of the log house and check how the insulation is laid down. The material should lie firmly, evenly and not form bubbles;
Never use polyurethane foam for caulking a wooden bath or at home! It violates the naturalness and environmental friendliness of materials, reduces the service life of the insulation;
After completing the work, check the quality of the work. To do this, try to remove the material or pierce it with a sharp object. If you can take out a whole strip or go through the insulation with a sharp tool, the work was not done well.

When laying insulation, it is very important to follow the technology, otherwise improper actions will not allow you to get maximum efficiency from caulking. The room will be purged, and the caulking itself will have to be repeated every two to three years. In addition, mistakes can lead to distortion of the walls, rotting of a log or timber, and sawn timber falling out of the locks!

To avoid potential problems and get quality work, contact the professionals. Masters of the company "MariSrub" will reliably and promptly perform caulking and insulation of the log house or bathhouse. We carry out a full range of services for the construction and decoration of wooden buildings.

The complex of works includes the manufacture of lumber and the creation of a project, installation of a log house, installation of a roof and foundation, installation and connection of engineering networks, finishing. We carry out high-quality insulation and caulking of a log house, sealing seams!