Drainage at the summer cottage: the easiest way to remove excess moisture. Drainage ditch construction Site drainage system

Drainage of the site is advisable in cases where there is a high level of groundwater, water does not drain for a long time after rains or melting of snow, and also when there is clay or loamy soil on the site.

First select the type of drainage

There are several main types of drainage:

Which pipes to use for the drainage system

In order to make drainage in the area with your own hands, you should use perforated plastic pipes.

Their diameter should be 63 or 110 mm.

Note!

Products have a corrugated outer surface, they are perfectly smooth inside, due to which they have a high throughput.

Perforated plastic pipes for drainage

So, it is better to choose products with a geofabric filter for sandy soil and a coconut fiber filter for clay soil.

For crushed stone soil, ordinary drainage pipes are sufficient.

Such a do-it-yourself drainage device on the site will be as effective as possible, because silting is excluded.

Drainage pipe with geofabric filter

If no filter products are available, ordinary perforated pipes can be used.

They need to be laid on a layer of geotextiles and a crushed stone pillow, covering them on top with the same geotextile. This will prevent silting up of the system.

Drainage laying is not geotextile

The length of the drainage pipe is determined in each case separately, it will depend on the volume of wastewater.

The performance is taken as a basis: 30 liters per day for each meter of the product.

If you have a regular sewer pipe, you can learn how to make a drain pipe yourself.

To do this, you need to make holes with a diameter of 0.5 cm in the product with a drill at a distance of 10 cm from each other, evenly distributing them over the area of ​​the pipe.

Do-it-yourself drainage device on the site

If you decide to do your own drainage on the site, you will need to do the following:

How is surface drainage done?

Let's start with the easiest job - arranging an open drainage system. Do-it-yourself surface drainage of the site is very simple.

You will need to do the following:

• dig main and auxiliary trenches. Trunk lines are usually located along the perimeter of the site, they have a slope towards the collector. Auxiliary trenches go from the place of water accumulation to the main ones, respectively, a slope is made in this direction. It should be about 2 cm for every meter of the trench. The walls of the trench are made at an angle of 30 degrees;
• compact the walls of the trench. If necessary, they can be reinforced with metal nets. When drainage is equipped with the help of special trays, a sand cushion is made 10 cm high, trays are installed on it, and sand traps are mounted in them;
• close the ditches with special nets to improve their aesthetics, prevent large debris and branches from getting inside;
• if backfill drainage is done, then 2/3 of the trench depth is filled with large crushed stone, on top - crushed stone of a smaller fraction. Next, the sod is laid. To prevent siltation, rubble can be wrapped in geotextile.

Deep drainage - how to do it yourself

There is more difficult and time-consuming work ahead, but if you follow the step-by-step instructions, you can cope with the task very quickly.

Consider how to make drainage of this type on the site:

Deep drainage of the site

• dig trenches with a slope towards the water intake well 2 cm per meter. The depth will be approximately 1-1.5 meters for sandy soil, 80 cm for loam and 70-75 cm for clay soil;
• lay a sand cushion 10 cm high on the bottom of the trenches;
• put a layer of geotextile, bring the edges of the material out;
• pour a layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 20-40 mm and a height of about 40 cm;
• lay a drainage pipe on the rubble;
• connect all pipes with each other using special adapters, connect the last drain element to the well;
• cover the top with a layer of rubble 10-15 cm;
• cover with geotextiles;
• pour a layer of soil on top.

Completion of deep drainage installation

When thinking about how to properly make drainage, it is important to take into account the fact that the drainage pipes should be located at least 50 cm below the level of the foundation, this will protect it from being washed out by groundwater.

They will only fall into the drains, moving along them to the place of water drainage.

Also, the pipes must be deepened below the level of freezing of the earth.

Drainage on an area with a slope

If you are thinking about the question of how to drain a site with a slope, then the sequence of work will be approximately the same as in previous cases.

But, there are some differences in the step-by-step instructions.

You will need to do the following:

Drainage of an area with a slope

• explore the site and determine its lowest point, in this place the drainage well will be located;
• determine the location of the main trench, preferably along the fence;
• dig a ditch of the right size;
• arrange auxiliary trenches in the form of a herringbone - they should converge to the main ditch with the desired slope. If the slope is not enough, it must be obtained by gradually deepening the trench to the place of its connection with the main ditch.

Drainage scheme with a slope

It will be easier to complete the work if a drainage scheme for the land plot was previously drawn up, including data on the terrain.

Video

Experienced builders and suburban residents are well aware that "excess" water on the site is bad. Excess water leads to flooding of the basement and basement floor, leaching of the base, flooding of beds, waterlogging of the territory, etc. As a result, in spring, autumn and even summer, one cannot walk through a summer cottage without rubber boots.

In this article, we will consider:

• How to equip water drainage on the site.
• How to make a budget storm sewer with your own hands.
• Drainage device. How to make inexpensive drainage and drainage of a wetland.

What kind of water prevents the developer and country homeowner from living

A separate book can be written about the types of surface and groundwater, as well as drainage and storm sewer systems. Therefore, we will leave out of the scope of this article a detailed enumeration of the types and causes of the occurrence of groundwater, and concentrate on practice. But without a minimum of theoretical knowledge, to undertake an independent arrangement of drainage and storm sewers - to throw money down the drain.

The fact is that even an incorrectly made drainage system functions for the first few years... Then, due to clogging (silting) of a pipe wrapped in geotextiles, which was placed in clay, loamy, etc. soil, drainage stops working. And the money for the arrangement of the drainage has already been spent and, most importantly, the construction of the drainage is associated with a large volume of earthworks with the involvement of equipment.

Therefore, it is difficult and costly to simply dig up and move the drainage pipe 3-5 years after its laying. The site has already been inhabited, landscaping has been done, a blind area has been equipped, a gazebo, a bathhouse, etc. have been installed.

We'll have to puzzle over how to redo the drainage so as not to turn the entire area around.

Hence - drainage construction should always be based on geological soil survey data(which will help to find a water-resistant layer in the form of clay at a depth of 1.5-2 m), hydrogeological surveys and clear knowledge of what kind of water leads to flooding of a house or waterlogging of a site.

Surface waters are seasonal in nature, associated with a period of snow melting and an abundance of rainfall. Groundwater is divided into three main groups:

• Capillary water.
• Ground water.
• Verkhovodka.

Moreover, if it is not taken away in time, surface water turns into underground water during infiltration (absorption) into the ground.

The volume of surface water usually exceeds the volume of groundwater.

Output: surface runoff must be removed by storm (rain) sewerage, rather than trying to do superficial drainage!

Stormwater drainage is a system consisting of trays, pipes or ditches dug in the ground, leading water from the gutters outside the site + competent organization of the relief in the backyard territory. This will avoid stagnant zones in the area (lenses, pools), where water will accumulate, which simply has nowhere to go, and further waterlogging.

The main mistakes that are made when installing the drainage yourself:

• Failure to comply with the correct slope of the laid drainage pipes. If we take the average, then the slope is maintained in the range from 0.005 to 0.007, i.e. 5-7 mm per 1 running meter of the drainage pipe.

• Using a drainage pipe in a geotextile winding on the "wrong" soil. To avoid siltation, a pipe in geotextile is used on soils consisting of clean medium and coarse-grained sands.

• Using cheaper limestone crushed stone instead of granite, which is washed out over time with water.
• Saving on high-quality geotextiles, which must have certain hydraulic properties that affect the quality of drainage. This is an effective pore size of 175 microns, i.e. 0.175 mm, as well as transverse Kf, which should be at least 300 m / day (with a single pressure gradient).

Inexpensive storm sewer with your own hands

The first thing that comes to mind in order to equip a budget option for a storm sewer on a site is to lay special trays.

Trays can be made of concrete or plastic, but the price bites. This forces the users of our portal to look for cheaper options for arranging storm sewers and drainage systems from the site.

Denis1235 FORUMHOUSE participant

I need to make an inexpensive downpour, about 48 m long, along the edge of the fence, to drain melt water that comes from a neighbor. The water must be drained into a ditch. I thought about how to make a water drain. At first it occurred to me to buy and install special trays, but then “extra” gratings would remain from them, and I don't need a special aesthetics for a shower. I decided to buy asbestos-cement pipes and cut them lengthwise with a grinder, thereby obtaining a homemade tray.

Despite the budget of this idea, the need to cut the asbestos-cement pipes on their own did not attract the user. The second option is the ability to buy gutters (plastic or metal) and lay them on a prepared base in a layer of concrete about 100 mm.

Portal users dissuaded Denis1235 from this idea in favor of the first option, which is more durable.

Clinging to the idea of ​​an inexpensive downpour, but not wanting to get involved with cutting pipes yourself, Denis1235 I found a plant that produces asbestos-cement pipes, where they will immediately be sawn into pieces 2 m long (so that a 4-meter one does not crack during transportation) and ready-made trays will be brought to the site. It remains only to develop a scheme for stacking trays.

The result is the following "pie":

• Ground base in the form of a bed.
• A layer of sand or ASG with a thickness of about 5 cm.
• Concrete about 7 cm.
• Asbestos-cement pipe tray.

When arranging such a shower, do not forget to lay a metal mesh (for reinforcement) at the joints and leave a deformation gap (3-5 mm) between the trays.

Denis1235

As a result, I made a budget downpour at the dacha. It took: 2 days for digging a trench, two more days for concreting and installation of the track. I spent 10 thousand rubles on trays.

Practice has shown that the track “wintered” well, did not crack and intercepts water from a neighbor, leaving the site dry. Also interesting is the option of rain (storm) sewerage of the user of the portal with the nickname yury_by.

yury_by FORUMHOUSE Member

Because the crisis does not think to end, then I wondered how to arrange a storm sewer to divert rainwater from the house. I would like to solve the problem, and save money, and do everything efficiently.

After thinking, the user decided to make a storm drain for water drainage on the basis of flexible double-walled corrugated pipes (they cost 2 times cheaper than "red" sewer pipes), which are used for laying power cables underground. But since the depth of the drainage route is planned to be only 200-300 mm with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, yury_by I feared that the corrugated pipe could break in winter when water gets between the two layers.

Eventually yury_by decided to take a budget "gray" pipe, which is used in the arrangement of the internal sewage system. Although he had fears that pipes that were not as rigid as the “red” ones would break in the ground, practice showed that nothing happened to them.

yury_by

If you step on a "gray" pipe, it turns into an oval, but in the place where I buried it, there are no significant loads. Only the lawn is laid and there is foot traffic. Having laid the pipe in a trench and sprinkled it with soil, I made sure that they keep their shape, and the downpour works.

The user liked the option of installing an inexpensive rainstorm based on "gray" sewer pipes so much that he decided to repeat it. All the nuances of the process are clearly demonstrated by the following photos.

Digging a hole to collect water.

Align the base to the level.

We install a concrete ring.

The next step is to fill the bottom of the well with gravel of fraction 5-20.

We cast a homemade well cover from concrete.

We paint the hatch cover.

We make a tie-in into the well of the drainage plastic "gray" sewer pipe, maintaining the slope of the route at 1 cm per 1 running meter.

We pour the pipe with a mixture of sand and water so that there are no voids between the walls of the trench and the pipe.

To prevent the pipe from floating up, it can be pressed with a brick or a board.

We put the cover, mount the hatch and fill everything with soil.

This completes the production of a budget shower.

Construction of inexpensive drainage and drainage of the wetland

Not everyone gets the "right" plots. In SNT or in new grooves, the land can be very swampy, or the developer has a peat bog. To build on such land a normal house for permanent residence, and not an easy summer cottage, is both difficult and expensive. There are two ways out of this situation - to sell / exchange the land or to drain and put the land in order.

In order not to engage in various expensive alterations in the future, users of our portal offer budget options for drainage and drainage of the territory based on car tires. This option allows you to save your family budget.

Yuri Podymakhin FORUMHOUSE Participant

Peat soil is characterized by a high level of groundwater. On my site, the water is almost flush with the surface, and after the rain it does not go into the ground. To divert the upper water, it must be thrown off the site. I did not spend money on the purchase of special pipes for drainage, but made drainage from car tires.

The system is mounted as follows - a ditch is dug, tires are placed in it, the tires are covered with polyethylene on top so that the ground does not fall inside from above. Polyethylene can also be additionally squeezed by pieces of slate "unnecessary" in the household. This will increase the overall rigidity of the structure. Water enters the "tire" pipeline and is then discharged outside the site.

But there are also more “difficult” places where much more needs to be done.

Seryoga567 Member of FORUMHOUSE

I have a plot in SNT, with a total area of ​​8 acres. There is a building on the site, which I plan to complete and expand. The place is very low. Because drainage grooves for drainage in SNT they are in a deplorable state, where they are buried, littered or clogged, then the water does not go anywhere. The GWL is so high that you can draw water from the well with a bucket holding it by the handle. In spring, the water at the dacha lasts a long time, the site actually turns into a swamp and, if it dries up, it is only in the summer in the very heat. Nobody wants to put the drainage ditches in order, so everyone swims. Therefore, I decided that it was useless to fight the neighbors. You need to raise your site and find a way to dispose of all the "unnecessary" water from the site.

The article will consider in detail surface drainage at a summer cottage: the easiest way to organize a drainage system and its features, the rules for the selection of materials and preparation for work. There will also be an analysis of step-by-step instructions and recommendations for arranging a sewage system for those people who have no experience in this area, but want to independently organize protection for their home and surrounding area from erosion by rainwater.

The use of drainage systems for the disposal of storm water solves many problems. Such designs eliminate the problem of excess moisture at the foundation of the house, preventing the development of putrefactive processes and the appearance of mold. In addition, such systems save the territory from flooding by storm water, as well as melt water, the level of which increases during the spring melting of snow.

Note! If you do not lay drainage pipes on the site or organize a system of surface ditches, you will have to constantly pump out water from the basement of the house in rainy weather. This is especially true for buildings built on loamy soil types.

How to make drainage on a site with your own hands: choosing a system

Drainage systems are conventionally divided into two large categories: surface and deep. If the installation of a deep system may require certain knowledge and the help of specialists, then the installation of surface drainage at a summer cottage can be done independently. This type of sewage can be called the simplest way to solve the problem with excess moisture on the site.

Note! There are certain restrictions regarding the installation of surface and deep systems. Some conditions do not allow the organization of this or that type of sewage system. Be sure to carry out a preliminary analysis of the conditions of the area of ​​the proposed construction.

In order to develop a preliminary drainage scheme for the site, its territory should be inspected and key points identified. All factors that may have an impact on further work on the preparation of a drainage project for the site are considered.

To draw up a diagram, the following information is required:

1. A plan of the territory indicating all buildings, the nature and density of plantings, as well as the boundaries of the site.
2. Topographic data that reflects the features of the relief (not needed if the site has a flat surface).
3. Dendroplane (the scheme is necessary if there are a large number of plantings on the territory or they are supposed to be planted, since the plants are dependent on water).
4. Road-path net (scheme of future paths and paved areas that need drainage).
5. Communication system diagram.
6. Hydrological data (level of water balance of the territory).

On the one hand, hydrological data have an impact on how to do drainage in suburban areas, so they are very important. On the other hand, loamy soil types have the same structural structure, so this information may not be needed.

Surface drainage system on site: device

Surface drainage systems collect spring melt and rainwater, after which they remove it outside the territory. The installation of such structures is especially needed for those summer cottages where stagnation of moisture or large accumulations of moisture is observed.

Most often, such conditions are formed if:

• clay or loamy soil is located under an interlayer of fertile soil (such types of soil are considered waterproof or waterproof);
• the territory has a low-lying nature of the location, for example, at the foot of the hills;
• the slope of the surface on the territory is partially equal to zero, in other words, the surface is perfectly flat, because of which the water cannot move independently under the influence of gravity;
• the site has zones where the soil from time to time is oversaturated with water, for example, places where plants are watered.

Note! In addition, it is possible to install surface drainage in an area with a high level of groundwater. In this case, the upper layers of the soil can be flooded with high precipitation.

The surface drainage patterns of the land plot are broadly as follows:

• water collection points;
• trench ladders leading from the catchment points;
• a trench that connects together a system of ladders;
• a drainage well, where a common trench leads (instead of a well, a ditch leading to a ditch or a natural reservoir, or a ditch specially dug outside the site can be used).

Types of surface drainage of a site with a high groundwater level

In terms of design features, two types of surface water drainage systems are distinguished:

• point, installed in areas where water accumulates;
• linear - whole networks of drainage pipes collecting water for its further transportation to storage.

How much will it cost to drain the site (price of materials for a point system):

Helpful advice! Experts recommend combining both of these systems to achieve the most effective result.

Drainage device on site (cost of materials for a linear system):

Features of point drainage of the site with your own hands on clay soil

The point-type drainage system does an excellent job of protecting certain areas of the territory from excess moisture. Before making the drainage of a site on clay soil, as a rule, problem areas are identified, which can be:

• the location of the gutters leading from the roof of the house;
• door pits;
• entrance area;
• terrace;
• points where the analysis of water intended for irrigation of vegetation is carried out.

To arrange the drainage of the site on clay soil, the following elements are used (prices for them are posted in the tables above):

• storm water inlets;
• sedimentation tanks equipped with containers for collecting large particles and debris;
• trench ladders transporting water to the storm sewer system;
• dampers that prevent the backflow of water and the ingress of large particles of debris into the system.

Features of the storm drainage system on the site: how to make a drainage system

The drainage system of a linear type consists of gutters that are buried in the soil. Through these channels, water is moved from the site to the outside. When arranging such a drainage in a summer cottage with your own hands, it should be remembered that the liquid is discharged by gravity.

On sale you can find gutters made of various materials:

• polymer concrete;
• plastic;
• concrete.

Helpful advice! To reduce the cost of purchasing consumables, you can make your own gutters. At home, you can make concrete elements using special pouring forms.

On top of the gutters, gratings are placed that perform a protective function. The material for their manufacture can be plastic or metal (cast iron, steel). These elements are removable.

How to drain a site based on the key elements of the system:

• gutters fit into pre-equipped trenches;
• sand traps are installed in the areas where drainage systems and other similar places are located;
• the gratings are fixed on the gutters.

Do-it-yourself installation of a linear drainage system on a site is performed if:

• the angle of inclination of the surface is more than 3 ° (in such conditions, water can be discharged by gravity, which without drainage can simply wash out the fertile soil layer);
• it is necessary to drain water from the base of the house in conditions of prolonged rainfall;
• it is necessary to divert water from the relief slopes of the territory;

• household structures are located in the same plane with the surface of the summer cottage or below this level;
• there is a need to protect the territory of the summer cottage, as well as entrances and paved paths.

Turnkey site drainage installation: work cost

Water can destroy the foundation of a house, destroy some types of plants, wash out fertile soil from the site and even provoke a landslide. Drainage of the site with drainage in combination with other protective measures avoids all these problems.

List of protective measures:

1. Implementation of seamless waterproofing of the base of the house.
2. Protection of the waterproofing layer from damage.
3. Installation of the drainage system at the foundation.
4. Organization of additional insulation of the waterproofing layer at the base.
5. Construction of insulated blind area structures.
6. Installation of turnkey plot drainage.

All items from this list (except for the last one) are performed even at the stage of building a house. It is better to entrust these works to professionals. The device of a drainage storm system can be done independently, but first you need to figure out what the cost of drainage of a site, performed on a turnkey basis by professionals. This will allow you to make the final decision as to whether it is worth laying drainage pipes with geotextiles or limiting itself to surface mounting of the system, which you can do yourself.

Organization of drainage of the site (price of professional services):

Installation of drainage at their summer cottage: the price of elements for the system

Regardless of whether the installation work is done independently or with the assistance of specialists, you must buy all the consumables necessary for this procedure before installing the drainage system.

Helpful advice! In order to save money, it is recommended to buy drainage wells and other consumables in advance. The main thing is not to be mistaken with the calculations. If you are not sure, use the advice of a specialist to draw up a preliminary estimate. The average cost of developing a project for the drainage system of the site is 15,000 rubles.

Drainage well prices:

The average price of cast-iron gratings for storm sewers as part of storm water inlets is 3,500 rubles. Waste basket and walls can be included in the package.

How much does it cost to lay drainage pipes in the country (price of services):

The table shows that the cost of laying pipes for drainage of the site depends not only on the level of deepening, but also on the type of material. Working with rigid pipes is much more difficult. This nuance should be taken into account when choosing products.

Drainage installation technology around the site: how to make the system correctly

The simplest technology, describing how to properly drain a suburban-type plot, implies the rejection of the use of gutters.

Note! In this case, the surface system is performed in a non-standard way with minimal costs, since there is no need to purchase ready-made parts in stores. In the process of work, materials at hand are used.

Do-it-yourself technology for creating surface drainage of a site:

1. Trenches should be dug along the perimeter of the area that needs drainage. They should be positioned taking into account the slope of the surface. If the site is horizontal, this slope must be formed independently. The optimal parameters for calculating storm sewers: the width of the trenches should be 40 cm, the depth - 50 cm. The minimum angle of inclination of the surface (towards the removal of moisture from the site) is 30 °.
2. The trench system must be connected, and then brought into a ditch or into a storage well. In this zone, you can organize a small artificial reservoir, for example, an ornamental pond, and plant there plants that love moisture.
3. The system is checked for functionality. To do this, water is poured into the trenches and the direction in which it flows is checked.
4. An embankment is formed at the bottom of the trenches. First you need to organize a layer of coarse gravel, after which there is a layer of fine gravel.

For the drainage system, pipes with a filter made of

Protection of the foundation of the house: the sequence of work of the storm sewer device

The technology of arranging a drainage system to protect the foundation involves the use of a linear structure:

1. In areas where liquid is drained from drainpipes leading from roofs, storm water inlets are installed. For these elements, you need to dig holes in advance, which are 10 cm higher than the depth and width of the water intake funnel. The grate should be placed 3 mm below the soil level.
2. The funnel is installed on a concrete base so that there is enough space to remove the grate and clean the water inlet if necessary. It is also not recommended to place this element too high, otherwise the liquid will be sprayed on the sides and there will be no sense from the drainage.
3. The water inlets are connected to the gutters for transporting water. To do this, you need to indent from the foundation of the house by 1 m and dig a trench. Its depth is selected so that the gutter can be installed, and there is still 10 cm of headroom left on top. The same amount of space should be in width. Do not forget about the slope of the drainage pipe towards the well.

Helpful advice! In the process of installing gutters, which are also placed on a concrete pad, it is recommended to use a building level. The sides of these parts can be fixed with concrete for reliability.

Next, the grilles are installed, and the end cap should be on the last gutter of the system. Place sand traps and wells on the corner parts of the storm sewer, after which you can begin to connect all the elements of the system together. At the joints, the use of bituminous mastic is allowed, which will exclude leaks.

The system is completely ready, it remains only to fill it with soil, but so that a gap of 3 mm is preserved between the surface and the grating.

Gutters made of plastic are lightweight and inexpensive. However, they are subject to deformational changes under the influence of the pressure exerted by concrete and soil. In order to exclude damage to the material, it is recommended to fix the drainage grates “on the bank”.

The water drainage system from the site by open drainage often freezes in winter. So that in the spring the storm sewer can do its job without delay, the pipe must be attached to the sand trap. Thanks to this, the system will not freeze too much.

Using the technology described earlier, you can drain around the perimeter of walkways. Paved areas and paths on the site also need to drain excess moisture, since water has a destructive effect on tiles and other elements (curbs, flower beds).

In some regions, groundwater is very close to the surface. So close that they threaten the integrity of buildings (their foundations) and prevent plantings from growing. All these problems are solved by the drainage of the site. In general, this event is costly both in terms of the amount of funds required and the necessary time costs. Much of the time is spent on planning. If you do everything according to your mind, then you need data from a hydrogeological study and a project drawn up by a specialist. But, as usual, only a few do this, most make a drainage system with their own hands.

What kind of water is drained away

Drainage of a plot is a costly and laborious undertaking that requires a large amount of land work. The best time for construction is the process of planning and arranging the site. Later deadlines lead to a lot of confusion, which is not everyone's joy. Nevertheless, if there is water on the site, you have to go for it.

There are several types of water on the site that bothers us and that needs to be diverted. They are of a different nature and require different measures.

Surface water

They are formed during snow melting and heavy precipitation, during work on the site (watering, washing paths), water discharge from a reservoir, etc. What all phenomena have in common is their singularity: surface waters appear after certain events. A more sensible way to divert them is by means of a device. She copes with the task perfectly, and the cost of the arrangement is much lower.

For the removal of surface water, mainly open channels are installed, water intake - point under storm pipes or linear along the entire roof overhang. From these receivers, water is taken with solid plastic (asbestos-cement) pipes into a sewer or a river or lake is dumped into a ravine. Sometimes it is permissible to withdraw to the ground.

Ground water

Those groundwaters that have a seasonal level (higher in spring after a flood, lower in winter) have a feeding zone (where they come from) and an outflow zone (where they leave) are called groundwater. Usually, groundwater is present on sandy, sandy loam soils, less often in loams with a small amount of clay.

The presence of groundwater can be determined using self-dug pits or several wells drilled with a hand drill. During drilling, a dynamic level is noted (when water appeared during drilling) and a steady level (some time after its appearance, its level stabilizes).

If we talk about the drainage of water from the building, then the drainage system is arranged if the groundwater level (GWL) is only 0.5 m below the foundation.If the groundwater level is high - above the freezing depth - then it is recommended with the measures taken to drain water. At a lower level, other options are possible, but a thorough and multi-layer waterproofing is required. The need for foundation drainage should be assessed by a specialist.

If high-standing groundwater (groundwater level above 2.5 meters) interferes with the growth of plants, drainage of the site is required. This is a system of canals or special drainage pipes laid in the ground at a certain level (below the hot water level by 20-30 cm). The depth of the pipes or ditches is below the GWL - so that the water flows to lower places. Thus, the adjacent soil areas are drained.

Verhovodka

This groundwater occurs on soils in high-lying water-resistant strata, but is often the result of construction errors. Usually this is water, which, being absorbed into the soil, meets strata with a low ability to absorb moisture on its way. Most often it is clay.

If, after the rain, puddles stand on the site and do not leave for a long time, this is a breeder. If water accumulates in the dug ditches, this is also a top water. If a few years after the construction of a house on clay soils or loams in the basement the walls begin to "cry" - this is also a top water. Water accumulated in crushed stone pockets under the foundation, in the blind area, etc.

The easiest way to remove the top water is with the help of ditches, but it is better to prevent its appearance - to backfill the foundation not with rubble and sand, but with clay or native soil, carefully tamping it in layers. The main task is to exclude the presence of pockets in which water will accumulate. After such a backfill, it is required to make a blind area, which is wider than the backfill in width and an obligatory stroke is the drainage of storm water.

If the site has a slope, consider installing terraces and retaining walls, with the obligatory arrangement of drainage ditches along the retaining wall. The most difficult thing is to deal with verkhvodka in low areas, which are lower in level than the neighboring ones. Here a reasonable solution is to add earth, since there is usually nowhere to dump water. Another possible option is the output of the drain through neighboring areas or along the road to the point of possible discharge. It is necessary to decide on the spot, based on the existing conditions.

In order not to drain

The drainage system is an expensive undertaking. If it is possible to get by with other measures, it is worth doing it. Other measures include the following:

If after all these activities the situation does not suit you, it makes sense to make a drainage system.

Drainage types

Site drainage is a complex system with many nuances and features. By structure, it can be local (local) - to solve a problem at a specific site. Most often, this is the drainage of the foundation, basement and semi-basement (basement) floors. Also, water drainage systems at the site are common - to drain the entire site or a significant part of it.

By installation method

By the way of installation, the drainage system can be:

• Open. Concrete or stone trays are used, ditches are dug around the site. They remain open, but can be covered with decorative grilles to protect the system from large debris. If you need a simple solution for draining surface water in the country, these are ditches around the perimeter of the site or in the lowest zone. Their depth should be sufficient so that the water does not overflow at maximum flow. So that the unreinforced walls of the drainage ditches do not collapse, they are made at an angle of 30 °,

Drainage option for a summer cottage - cheap and cheerful

• Closed. The water is captured by the laid special water-permeable - drainage - pipes. The pipes are discharged into a storage well, into a drain, a ravine, a nearby reservoir. This type of site drainage is good for permeable soils (sandy).
• Backfill. Drainage of this type of site is usually used on clayey soils or loams. In this case, the pipes are also laid in ditches, but a layer-by-layer sand and gravel backfill is arranged in them, which collects water from the surrounding soils. The worse the soil conducts moisture, the more powerful backfill is required.

  

The specific type of site drainage is selected based on the site conditions. On clays and loams, an extensive gravel-sandy zone is required, into which water will flow from the surrounding soil areas. On sands and sandy loams, there is no need for such a pillow - the soils themselves drain water well, but only a specialist can say specifically based on the results of geological research.

By type of implementation

There are several types (schemes) of drainage devices on the site:

When draining a site, a central drain or a collector is made of pipes of a larger diameter (130-150 mm versus 90-100 mm for conventional drains) - the volume of water here is usually larger. The specific type of drainage system is selected based on the tasks that need to be solved. Sometimes you have to use combinations of different schemes.

Site drainage - device

The drainage system consists of a network of interconnected pipes that are located around the perimeter (or area) of the area protected from water. Drainage wells are placed at intersections or turns. They are necessary to monitor the condition of the system and clean up silted pipes. From all drained areas, water enters the collector well, where it accumulates to a certain level. It can then be discarded or used for irrigation and other technical needs. The discharge can go by gravity (if there is any), and submersible are used for supplying irrigation and other technical needs.

Drainage pipes and wells

Special drainage pipes are used - with holes ranging in size from 1.5 to 5 mm. Through them water flows from the surrounding soil. Holes are located over the entire surface of the pipe. They are of different diameters, for private houses and plots the most used size is 100 mm, for the removal of large volumes of water, you can take a cross section of up to 150 mm.

They are now made mainly from polymers - HDPE, LDPE (low and high pressure polyethylene) and PVC (polyvinyl chloride). They are used for laying to a depth of 2 meters. There are also two and three-layer combined ones, which are made from combinations of these materials, they are buried to a depth of 5 meters.

Pipes for drainage are selected taking into account the depth of occurrence. It is required to select according to the ring stiffness. It is denoted by the Latin letters SN followed by numbers that represent the ring stiffness (resistance to loads). For laying to a depth of 4 meters, the rigidity must be SN4, up to 6 meters - SN6.

The surface of the drain pipe is wrapped in filter materials. There can be from one to three filtering layers. The number of layers is selected based on the composition of the soil - the finer the particles, the more layers are required. For example, on clays and loams, pipes with three filter layers are used.

At the turning points and in the places where several pipes are connected, revision wells are placed. They are needed for easier cleaning in the event of a blockage, as well as for the ability to monitor the condition of the pipes. As a rule, all pipes converge into one collector well, from where water is either sent by gravity to the discharge point, or is pumped out forcibly.

There are special wells for drainage systems, but it is quite possible to bury a concrete ring with a bottom and a cover of small diameter (70-80 cm) and bring pipes into it. Depending on the depth of insertion of the drainage of the rings, several may be required. Another option is to make a viewing well and a large drainage pipe, but in this case you will have to come up with something with the bottom. For example, you can fill the bottom with concrete.

Slope

In order for the collected water to drain off on its own, it is necessary to observe a certain slope in the direction of the direction of travel. The minimum slope is 0.002 - 2 mm per meter, the main one is 0.005 (5 mm per 1 meter of pipe). If the drainage is shallow, the slope of the pipe can increase up to 1-3 cm per 1 meter, but it should be made as low as possible. At a flow velocity of more than 1 m / s, small soil particles are "sucked in", which contributes to a faster siltation of the system.

The slope is changed (in relation to the "duty" in 5 mm per 1 meter) in two cases:

• If it is necessary to drain more water per unit of time without increasing the diameter of the drain. In this case, the slope is increased.
• If it is required to get away from the backwater (when the pipe laid with a given slope is lower than the GWL, i.e. the water simply will not drain). In this case, the slope is reduced.

In the practical design of the system, questions may arise about how to ensure the given slope. This can be done by using a water level (not very convenient) or a flat board paired with a regular construction bubble level. Having leveled the bottom of the trench, lay a board, on it - a level. By moving it along the board, they check and correct the slope of the bottom of the trench in a certain area.

Drain installation technology

Trenches of a given width and depth are pre-dug. The bottom of the trench is leveled and compacted. Do not forget about the bias, but at this stage there is no point in keeping it exactly. Next, about 100 mm of coarse washed river sand is poured, it is also tamped (spilled, then tamped), leveled. Sand, preferably with a Dsr fraction of 1.5-2.5 mm.

The sand is laid with a density of no more than 200 g / m2. The edges of the canvas are lined along the walls of the trench. A layer of crushed granite is poured on top. The size of the crushed stone fraction is selected depending on the size of the holes in the drainage pipe. For the smallest holes, crushed stone with a grain of 6-8 mm is required, for the rest - larger. Crushed stone layer thickness - 150-250 mm - depending on the type of soil. On clays and loams, 250 mm is required, on soils that drain water better - sands and sandy loams - about 150 mm.

Crushed stone is tamped, leveling in a given slope. A drainage pipe is laid on the compacted rubble. Next, the pipe is sprinkled with gravel in layers, each layer is rammed. There should be at least 100 mm of gravel on top of the drain. After that, the ends of the geotextile are wrapped, their overlap should be 15-20 cm. A layer of sand with grains of 0.5-1 mm is poured on top. The thickness of the sand layer is 100-300 mm, also depending on the permeability of the soil: the worse the water is discharged, the thicker the sand layer. "Native" soil is laid on the compacted sand, and then plants can be planted.

A little about backfill materials

Crushed stone should be granite or other hard lime-free rocks. Dolomite (limestone) or marble are not suitable. Testing the existing one is simple: drip vinegar on it. If there is a reaction, it doesn't fit.

Once again, we draw your attention: the crushed stone is laid washed - so that the new pipes do not immediately silt up.

Coarse sand is required. Grain size from 0.5 mm to 1 mm. The sand should also be clean. Some part of the sand is poured with clean water, shaken, waiting for the sand to settle and assessing the purity of the water. If the water is cloudy, with a lot of suspended particles, the sand needs to be washed.

Some of the nuances of construction

When draining a site, a central drain or a collector is made of pipes of a larger diameter (130-150 mm versus 90-100 mm for conventional drains) - the volume of water here is usually larger.

The drainage device at the site starts from the lowest point and moves gradually upward. First, a collector well is installed. If the water table is high or if the water has not yet come down, water can accumulate in the ditches. This muddy slurry will slide down the well, clogging it up. In addition, the presence of water in the ditch greatly interferes with the work: drains must be laid in dry ditches. To drain them along the ditch, side pits (sump) of greater depth are made. Crushed stone is poured at the bottom. The accumulated water is pumped out of these pits.

Poor growth of garden crops and trees, constant dirt on garden paths and seasonal flooding of cellars and basements indicate a high level of groundwater at the summer cottage. It is not worth putting up with these inconveniences, otherwise high humidity can turn into more significant problems - swelling of the blind area and paths, shrinkage of walls, or even destruction of the foundation. Nevertheless, there is no reason to rush to get rid of suburban property. It is not difficult to drain the area - it is enough to build an efficient drainage system. Drainage construction does not require any special skills, so you can easily do it yourself. As for knowledge, we will try to tell you about the secrets of construction and give important recommendations on the course of work.

A drainage system is necessary where the site is flooded even after a light rain

The question of whether a drainage system is needed in a suburban area, as a rule, does not require a long study of the situation and analysis of natural factors. Most often, the inconvenience arising from waterlogging of the soil appears after snowmelt or heavy rain. The beds are overgrown with sedge, paths and lawns are occupied by puddles for a long time, and basements and cellars suffer from dampness - these are the factors that indicate the need for drainage. Nevertheless, before investing time and money in the arrangement of a drainage system, you should make sure of its feasibility. Several conditions will help to do this, indicating the need to drain the soil.

If at least one of these factors is confirmed at your dacha, then the need for drainage can not be discussed. A high-quality drainage system will give a second life to cultivated plants, make the territory cleaner, protect the paths from deformations, and the foundation from destruction.

Varieties and arrangement of drainage systems

The problem of excessive soil moisture on the site can be solved by drainage systems of two types - surface and deep. The decision which one to use to drain your site directly depends on the reasons that lead to the flooding of the area.

Surface (open) rain drain

Surface drainage is a system of storm water inlets designed to collect and remove rain and melt water outside the site, not allowing it to be absorbed into the ground. This drainage system works excellently on clayey soils and can complement traditional storm sewers. Water drainage is carried out into filtration wells or outside the site. In addition, the lion's share of precipitation simply evaporates.

Point drainage is very often combined with a linear drainage system

Depending on the design of drainage systems, surface drainage is divided into two types:

When arranging point drainage, wastewater collection is carried out using storm dampers, drainage outlets, storm inlets and ladders. The places of their installation are door pits, drain points of roof storm inlets, areas under watering taps and other areas that need local water collection. Point drainage basins are connected to underground pipes, through which the wastewater flows into the storm sewer collector.

Linear drainage system trays are covered with grates that prevent clogging

Linear drainage can be wall-mounted or remote from structures. It is a system of barred trays for collecting rainfall that did not fall into the point rainwater inlets. It is rational to use this method of dehumidification in such cases:

Road drainage is also referred to as linear drainage, which is performed in the form of a ditch parallel to the roadway for car traffic.

Arrangement of a deep drainage system is necessary where groundwater approaches the surface of the site closer than 2.5 meters. When building it, a large amount of earthwork is required, therefore, it is best to build such a drainage simultaneously with digging pits for the foundation of a house and outbuildings.

Prefabricated drain pipes and soil types on which they are recommended to be used

For the construction of deep drainage, perforated pipes (drains) are used, which are laid in the soil layer at an angle. The presence of holes allows drains to collect excess moisture and transport it to a collection header, filtration well or drainage tunnel.

The slope of the drainage pipes must be at least 1%. For example, for a highway 20 m long, the height difference between the upper and lower points will be 20 cm.

Design features of deep drainage systems

Another common type of deep drainage is a reservoir or backfill system. It is made in the form of an underground channel, up to half filled with a filtering cushion made of rubble or chipped bricks. To prevent the absorption of the collected moisture, the bottom of the reservoir drains is sealed with a layer of clay, on top of which roll waterproofing is laid.

The simplest and most effective methods for draining a summer cottage

Since drainage at the summer cottage and directly around the buildings can be done in various ways, we will focus on the simplest and least labor-intensive options.

How to reduce moisture levels without drainage

Many factors affect bogging, therefore, in some cases, a summer cottage plot can be drained without drainage. If a special relief contributes to the increased soil moisture, then it is quite simple to make the water flow off the site. To do this, in some places, the soil is removed, and in others it is poured, creating a small slope. If the selected soil is not enough, then it is brought in from outside the garden area. It is better to sprinkle the soil in the country with black soil or peat, and in order to make the soil lighter, add from 1/3 to 1/5 parts of sand to it.

A reservoir arranged at the lowest point of the site is an excellent way to utilize drainage water

If water accumulates on the site due to closely spaced layers of clay, and the territory itself has a slight slope, then a small reservoir can be dug at the lowest point. It can be used as a natural reservoir for irrigating cultivated plants, turned into a fish pond, or used as a decorative element of landscape design. As a rule, due to the high level of groundwater, there is no need for additional waterproofing, but in some cases, a special PVC film for pools will help to make the reservoir airtight. To prevent the surface of the artificial lake from blooming, aquatic plants are planted along its banks.

Planting moisture-loving plants is a great way to normalize soil moisture. For example, an ordinary birch tree is a real pump that literally pumps water out of the ground. They do a good job with draining the territory of spirea, irga, hawthorn, wild rose, and, of course, willow and pussy willow. Planted in problem areas, as well as along paths, they will not only remove excess moisture, but make the landscape original and attractive.

How to make drainage around a country house or outbuildings

To protect the basement or basement from melt and rainwater, wall drainage is built around the dacha buildings. This drainage system is most effective during the off-season when the water table reaches its maximum value. The construction of the "reclamation" system is best carried out at the stage of foundation construction, however, if the decision to build it was made due to the appearance of water in the basement, it's okay - better late than never.

Constant flooding threatens to destroy the foundation

Drainage construction is carried out in stages.

Drainage around the house can be done in two ways - close to the foundation and at a distance from it

You should not rush to arrange the blind area around the house - it is necessary to withstand the time for the soil to settle in the trench. They start pouring concrete and laying paving slabs only after the soil is finally compacted.

Video: construction of a low-budget deep drainage system with one well

Drainage of a summer cottage: the simplest method

A surface drainage system allows you to avoid unnecessary financial costs and build drainage structures on a large summer cottage. Its main purpose is to remove excess moisture during showers or during snowmelt.

When arranging open drainage, earthworks are carried out in accordance with the instructions below.

Further, they are engaged in, in fact, drainage. Depending on the degree of aesthetics, the requirements of landscape design or personal preferences, it can be tray or backfill. In the first case, the arrangement of the channels looks like this:

Laying trays will make the drainage system durable and aesthetic

In the second case, construction is carried out according to the following scheme:

For the arrangement of drainage, you can use the old, "old-fashioned" method - the construction of fascines. For this, branches of alder, willow or birch are harvested, which are tied in armfuls 15 cm thick so that thin twigs are on one side, and thick twigs on the other. Bunches of branches are laid not on the ground, but on pegs pre-installed along the entire length of the trenches, tied like anti-tank "hedgehogs". The brushwood is placed with thick branches upwards and compacted along the edges with moss. If everything is done correctly, then you can count on the 20-year work of the reclamation system.

To protect the walls of the channels from collapse, rubble stone or sod is used. Trenches are decorated by constructing ridges with perennial moisture-loving plants, for example, irises, along their edges.

One of the ways to make the drainage channel more attractive is to plant ornamental plants.

Drainage of the suburban area: the traditional way

No matter how simple and cheap an open drainage system is, it has one significant drawback - low aesthetics. Agree that landscaping on a site with a whole network of canals is not an easy task. In this case, it is better not to save money and build a durable and efficient deep drainage system.

The best scheme for laying drainage pipes is the herringbone. In it, the lateral highways converge to one central pipe, which is taken out into the sewer or outside the site.

Deep drainage system diagram

If a drainage system is needed not to protect the foundation, but in order to reduce soil moisture, then the depth of the trenches is chosen based on the recommended values:

For drainage, special polymer pipes with holes with a diameter of 1.5 to 5 mm are used. Ideally, their type and quantity is determined by a calculation that takes into account the moisture content of the soil, its type, amount of precipitation, etc. step 40-60 mm independently.

Closed drainage trenches can be dug by hand or with earthmoving equipment

After the ditches have been dug, they begin the main part of the work.

Observing the slopes, drain pipes are laid and connected into a single network.

It is not recommended to use crushed limestone for arranging drainage. Firstly, at a depth, it will be compressed and will not allow moisture to pass through, and secondly, its interaction with the soil can provoke the appearance of a salt marsh.

Video: construction of a closed drainage system at a summer cottage

Maintenance and cleaning of drainage in the country

Although a properly constructed deep or surface drainage system does not need frequent preventive measures, some work still cannot be avoided. The contents of the manholes should be checked periodically by removing soil particles using a dirty water pump and a high pressure pump. When pumping out mud from a drainage well, a long pole is used, with which the bottom sediments are shaken. Full flushing is required when pipes are heavily silted up, as well as every 10–15 years of operation of the drainage system.

High pressure water systems are best for cleaning drain pipes

To free the pipeline from sand deposits, the pipeline must be accessible from both sides. Flushing is carried out with a strong stream of water, which is alternately directed from one side to the other of the pipe.

If you have to deal with stubborn deposits of dirt and clay, then you can use the traditional plumbing technique - cleaning the pipes with a long cable and a hard bristle brush. By combining mechanical action with flushing, perennial deposits on drainage pipes can be completely removed.

In the case of silting of the channels of surface systems, you can resort to cleaning them with saltpeter. To do this, the turf and the upper backfill are removed from the trenches, after which saltpeter is evenly scattered onto the layer of crushed stone. Then the "pie" is spilled abundantly with water and the upper layers are put back in place. This method allows you to extend the performance of the system for more than one year, but you can only use it as a last resort - saltpeter is a source of nitrates, and its excess negatively affects the quality of the soil.

Video: how to flush a deep-type drainage system

A high-quality drainage system will protect the foundation and basement of the country house from flooding, add health and strength to green spaces. The cost of carrying out reclamation activities is not so high as to refuse them, especially since you can build drainage on the site with your own hands. Everything you need for this can be easily found in the retail network, and earthmoving equipment will help speed up the work.